yes. it slides by itself to adjust when the engine and transmission shift around for positive and negative load. expanding and contracting it is as easy as pulling on the driveshaft. once you have it bolted on one end, pull away from the driveshaft with the other end. basiclly pull the driveshaft apart and it will slide around. notice at the 1:58 mark i bring up the rear end of the driveshaft, line it up with the diff flange, and pull on it. it slides into place, that is the driveshaft expanding.
Hey I just had a question if anyone could answer that’d be great! I got a whole zf 5spd swap into my 99 323i vert could I just use the front half of a zf tranny DS and the back half of my auto
Hey man awesome series you have, I appreciate how you take the time to explain everything carefully and don't cut corners explaining. Been super helpful. I have a question about your driveshaft though. I'm assuming you're using the auto 3.38 diff in there, which has 4 bolts on the output flange. So is the driveshaft you are using from a ZF manual car that had a 4 bolt flange diff? I'm using parts from a wrecked 97 m3, and the original drive shaft to the 3.23 manual diff has a 6 bolt flange. Would appreciate your input, thanks!
yeah so the 3.38's have 4 bolt flanges, and i think some of the later cars have 3.23's with 4 bolt flanges as well... as far as your options go you can either get a 4 bolt flange driveshaft or you can stuff that 6 bolt diff in the car and use the 6 bolt driveshaft.
tight is tight my friend. those bolts dont do much besides hold it in place. clutch bolts, headbolts, anything that requires a gasket or needs equal load bearing requires torque, but these little guys just hold it in place.
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Nice video, good job, nice flow not too fast, not too slow, good job!
thank you!
Do you not have to set the preload or anything on the CSB?
you mentioned at 1:58 the driveshaft can expand at the center support bearing. how can I do this?
yes. it slides by itself to adjust when the engine and transmission shift around for positive and negative load. expanding and contracting it is as easy as pulling on the driveshaft. once you have it bolted on one end, pull away from the driveshaft with the other end. basiclly pull the driveshaft apart and it will slide around. notice at the 1:58 mark i bring up the rear end of the driveshaft, line it up with the diff flange, and pull on it. it slides into place, that is the driveshaft expanding.
Do you use the same cardan? Are the same
Hey I just had a question if anyone could answer that’d be great! I got a whole zf 5spd swap into my 99 323i vert could I just use the front half of a zf tranny DS and the back half of my auto
Hey man awesome series you have, I appreciate how you take the time to explain everything carefully and don't cut corners explaining. Been super helpful. I have a question about your driveshaft though. I'm assuming you're using the auto 3.38 diff in there, which has 4 bolts on the output flange. So is the driveshaft you are using from a ZF manual car that had a 4 bolt flange diff? I'm using parts from a wrecked 97 m3, and the original drive shaft to the 3.23 manual diff has a 6 bolt flange. Would appreciate your input, thanks!
yeah so the 3.38's have 4 bolt flanges, and i think some of the later cars have 3.23's with 4 bolt flanges as well... as far as your options go you can either get a 4 bolt flange driveshaft or you can stuff that 6 bolt diff in the car and use the 6 bolt driveshaft.
InstaBlaster
Hey, I have a quick question. Can I reuse my Automatic Driveshaft nuts and bolts for the swap?
Yup!
@@M3NACE Thanks
So I’m guessing it’s not important to torque the driveshaft bolts. Just get them nice and tight so they don’t come loose?
tight is tight my friend. those bolts dont do much besides hold it in place. clutch bolts, headbolts, anything that requires a gasket or needs equal load bearing requires torque, but these little guys just hold it in place.