Here's how I understand it to work on these. There are three actuators in the front system. One is the "temp door" that controls the air flow through the heater core. If that one goes you have no heat or no cold, depending on where it stops when it dies. The other two actuators control the mix of warm and cold air to each side of the dash. If one of those goes out you'll get full hot or full cold on that side. One actuator is mounted on the drivers side, and two on the passenger side.
As I understand it, there are 4 in the front. While 2 of them control the temp on the left or right side, the third controls whether you are getting outside air or recirculated air, and the 4th controls whether you get defrost, heat, or dash blowing. But I may be wrong, or this may be a different trim level or system. Please correct me if I am wrong.
@@RealKansasMan LOL pretty funny. postion is irrelivant... serves no purpose as actuator goes in one way only so position does nothing I already got a Mopar brand actuator as the aftermarket has a different gear ratio so when the system calibrates it thinks its opening beyond its limit but its not its the gear ratio is wrong... where as a mopar is set. So if you buy aftermarket you need a dealer re calibration to set it up which in turn is way more $ so buy mopar and then no codes or issues
As far as I have found, there's no way for the computer to know the actuator position, other than by internal flap / door position, and possibly by temp sensor. If you take that actuator apart it's only a motor with gears. There are no sensors within the actuator itself.
I just did this. I had the blend door actuator off but still connected to the wiring. I just turned the hvac knob, the actuator turned and when it lined up with the arrow I unplugged the actuator. Installed actuator back and everything lined up.
00:43 so you are saying where that 'tooth' is missing that 'missing' space should be aligned with the middle raised line on the 'body' of the actuator and then 'set' back into place? Then after it is 'set' turn it to get it to click?
So, I'm assuming that the vent door itself is positioned to full heat? I'm also assuming this is the passenger side since that's the one that fails most often? I make these assumptions because when these things fail, it's usually the passenger side and it's usually stuck on full heat. Please let me know if my assumptions are right. Thanks for the video!
6 місяців тому
You are right. Mine replaced 3 times for full heat on passenger side.
You should have showed what side of the vehicle underneath the dashboard you were working, how to access it, how to take parts away to get to it, the noise is was making prior to the search and where to find it.
He is not under the dash , but out on the passenger side in the back of the van . That is where this action is taking place. And trust me it is a BEAR to get yo.
With most of these actuators, by the time you've dug far enough into the dash to remove one it's worth just replacing it with a new OEM part. A decent professional mechanic will do that because the time involved in just accessing the part costs much more than the part. Don't fall for the idea that your time costs nothing. As a wise man once said, you can always make more money but you can never make more time, so you don't want to do this job twice. If there are several actuators accessible once you've pulled the dash apart, I'd be tempted to replace them all with new parts even if that ended up costing a couple of hundred dollars. I think these plastic electromechanical parts buried deep in the hvac systems are all fundamental to the planned obsolescence of modern vehicles.
Yes ultimately you’re right. Nothing is for free but helping is a huge part of who iam. If I feel lead to help someone I will even if it cost me my time. It’s just what I do. Thx for the comments 😀
I donot think this is a legit video. 1. The actuator is not wired so the computer does not know any calibration is happening. 2. After he allign it, he rotates to match the gear on the door, so the calbiration goes away as soon as you rotate.
Thanks for this... been living with that annoying clicking sound for the past 3 years, even when I put in a new actuator.
Perfect. Thank you for the info. This is exactly the information I needed. I watched an hour of videos trying to find this info.
Yes you’re right there no video out there for this calibration thanks!
Here's how I understand it to work on these. There are three actuators in the front system. One is the "temp door" that controls the air flow through the heater core. If that one goes you have no heat or no cold, depending on where it stops when it dies.
The other two actuators control the mix of warm and cold air to each side of the dash. If one of those goes out you'll get full hot or full cold on that side.
One actuator is mounted on the drivers side, and two on the passenger side.
As I understand it, there are 4 in the front. While 2 of them control the temp on the left or right side, the third controls whether you are getting outside air or recirculated air, and the 4th controls whether you get defrost, heat, or dash blowing. But I may be wrong, or this may be a different trim level or system. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you, that’s helped a lot. I am working on my actuator now!
Dude thank you!!! Been wondering why it wasn't working
Great video, helped me a lot and saved me time and money , thanks
I will try this tomorrow as mine keeps saying out of range.. Hope it works thanks for the vid. I will follow up tomorrow
Follow up my a**
@@RealKansasMan LOL pretty funny. postion is irrelivant... serves no purpose as actuator goes in one way only so position does nothing I already got a Mopar brand actuator as the aftermarket has a different gear ratio so when the system calibrates it thinks its opening beyond its limit but its not its the gear ratio is wrong... where as a mopar is set. So if you buy aftermarket you need a dealer re calibration to set it up which in turn is way more $ so buy mopar and then no codes or issues
As far as I have found, there's no way for the computer to know the actuator position, other than by internal flap / door position, and possibly by temp sensor. If you take that actuator apart it's only a motor with gears. There are no sensors within the actuator itself.
I just did this. I had the blend door actuator off but still connected to the wiring. I just turned the hvac knob, the actuator turned and when it lined up with the arrow I unplugged the actuator. Installed actuator back and everything lined up.
Good Work!!
00:43 so you are saying where that 'tooth' is missing that 'missing' space should be aligned with the middle raised line on the 'body' of the actuator and then 'set' back into place? Then after it is 'set' turn it to get it to click?
Thank you
Sometimes the plastic gears break off. It looks like a gear is mission on the actuator you are holding. On my 2011 journey they are self calibrated.
Would be nice if we can see the location!
is vent door same as recirculation?
thx
So, I'm assuming that the vent door itself is positioned to full heat? I'm also assuming this is the passenger side since that's the one that fails most often? I make these assumptions because when these things fail, it's usually the passenger side and it's usually stuck on full heat.
Please let me know if my assumptions are right.
Thanks for the video!
You are right. Mine replaced 3 times for full heat on passenger side.
You should have showed what side of the vehicle underneath the dashboard you were working, how to access it, how to take parts away to get to it, the noise is was making prior to the search and where to find it.
He is not under the dash , but out on the passenger side in the back of the van . That is where this action is taking place. And trust me it is a BEAR to get yo.
@@johnuhelski8613 I have changed both of them back there twice. Yeah, it's an involved process, but it's not hard.
so ungratefull.
Only when someone calls me this. You shouldn't get personally by insulting those who tell the truth. Go back in your hole, Miguel. :-)
With most of these actuators, by the time you've dug far enough into the dash to remove one it's worth just replacing it with a new OEM part. A decent professional mechanic will do that because the time involved in just accessing the part costs much more than the part. Don't fall for the idea that your time costs nothing. As a wise man once said, you can always make more money but you can never make more time, so you don't want to do this job twice. If there are several actuators accessible once you've pulled the dash apart, I'd be tempted to replace them all with new parts even if that ended up costing a couple of hundred dollars.
I think these plastic electromechanical parts buried deep in the hvac systems are all fundamental to the planned obsolescence of modern vehicles.
Yes ultimately you’re right. Nothing is for free but helping is a huge part of who iam. If I feel lead to help someone I will even if it cost me my time. It’s just what I do. Thx for the comments 😀
I donot think this is a legit video. 1. The actuator is not wired so the computer does not know any calibration is happening. 2. After he allign it, he rotates to match the gear on the door, so the calbiration goes away as soon as you rotate.