2013 Grand Caravan Temp Blend Door Repaired!!
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- Опубліковано 20 тра 2020
- 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Front Passenger Temperature Blend Door Actuator
Removal and Disassembly of Actuator
Recalibration of Actuator
Save money on junk parts Buy Mopar
D.I.Y.
Fix it yourself
How did you go about lining it back up? That's what I came to watch, but you skipped that.
Thanks for the video Mike :-) I think I’m missing a step tho…. I set my actuator perfectly with the 3 lines you show by connecting it to a 9v battery but when I go to reinstall it into the van, it doesn’t blow air where I tell it too. I push the face only button and air just blows to my feet. I push the face/feet button and air blows only to the front windshield? I take the actuator out again and rotate it with the 9v to align it with the 3 lines and gap in teeth and reinstall to the van and it still doesn’t blow air where I want it too. I tried 3 times to line it up and reinstall with no luck and just gave up. Good news tho- hot air only on passenger side is at least fixed so passengers now have cold air but it just doesn’t blow where I tell it too and didn’t know this one question “when I align the gap in teeth to the 3 lines on the actuator, which button on the van should have an orange light, face only or face and feet or front windshield etc.?” Thanks
There are 2 actuators on each side in the front. One for temp blending and the other is for locations. The one I show is the temp blend. Both are identical tho. If the teeth on the gears look rounded.... replace the unit.
Hey, you did a great video. I am sure, saved lots and lots of $$$ for many.
I have a question, is it necessary to open it up or could a 9v battery be just hooked and turn the position right back into the place, if it is working and good, just out of ideal position, marked on the outside?
I'm pretty sure that would work. I wanted to open it to inspect it, so I just put it back in place while I was there. Thanks for the compliment. Hope you get it going again. Not 100 percent sure, but I'm thinking it gets out of 'sync' when the battery gets disconnected. Not totally sure tho. I still have the new Mopar replacement part sitting in a box. Lol.
All summer my blend door was on the cold side (a good thing) but wasnt moving. I just bought a new actuator. I removed the old one, i made sure the blend door wasnt stuck, plug the new actuator but i've decides to not install it to see if it was turning. So yes it turned but stop after some 30-60 sec. When i push my temp up/down button nothing was moving, no voltage with the multimeter. Decided to open the case of my old one, all my gear were ok. I plugged it on the 12v car batterie and it was turning fine. I've installed back the old one and now everything is working !!?? WTF ?? Someone can explaind this to me ?
Strange how I didn't do all that. I only took the old one out, stuck the new one in and aligned the screws and tightened. No noise thereafter. I'm wondering though if a part like that could cause a DTC readout removal of the reading and I can go back to the inspection station to get passed? When it was clicking they asked me if I removed the battery and I didn't. After I put in the new Blend door actuator, they told me I had to run the car for 150 miles to clear and generate new codes or fixed ones. Anyone got an idea as to whether the problem for the inspection station testing failure could be caused by this part? Or is it due to something else? thanks.
If you need to replace a broken recirculation door, it is located in the "cage" you can see under the passenger side dash. It is very difficult to remove. The entire Air Inlet box (the cage) must be replaced. I am working on that project this weekend. I have everything apart, and it's still stuck. I am working on a video of that repair. There is nothing on UA-cam.
I've never had to remove a door before. But from what I've learned, and I might be wrong....but the whole unit drops out and it's gotta be split open. I dont believe the doors are removable without opening the whole unit itself. Keep me updated. Would like to know how you did it.
@@michaelzernie7092 I am awaiting the new air box. It was EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to remove. Everything is apart on the passenger side, including the removal of the top portion of the dash which has the airbag installed. I tried pulling the airbox straight out though the front (where the upper glovebox is located) in between the steel framework and it does not fit. There is a gooseneck on the top of the box which bolts to the firewall. This gooseneck gets stuck behind the black plastic ventilation pipes and the steel frame. I used a Sawzall to cut off the Gooseneck, and to cut the airbox into 4 pieces to remove it. There is NO WAY the new Airbox will go back in the same way I removed it. I tried to lower the fan/blower motor assembly, and it only drops 2 inches on an angle. I have tried to figure out how to completely remove the fan/blower pipe assembly without success. My new plan is to cut the pipe beside the fan/blower and remove the fan/blower assembly. I will install the new air box from below, lifting it up into place. The new Airbox comes with the recirculation door and a brand new actuator motor. The fan/blower will be reattached to the new Airbox with its 5 screws, the fan motor will be reattached to the steel frame with it's single bolt, and the cut plastic vent pipe will be sealed with red Tuck Tape. I have been recording the repair on video. When I'm done, I will edit the video and publish on UA-cam. I estimate the video length will be 20+ minutes. This is not a repair that should be attempted by anyone not familiar with doing complicated vehicle repairs. I am not a Mechanic, but in my 40 years of tinkering with vehicles, this is one of the most difficult "part replacements" I have ever done.
Update: I had to disconnect the entire hard, black, plastic dashboard shell from the steel framework. The radio was removed, the ignition switch was removed, the gear shifter was partially removed, the passenger side plastic vent pipes were removed. The 5 bolts connecting the steel frame had to be removed from the passenger side. To install the Airbox thru the top of the dash, the black shell had to be lifted up and pulled away from the windshield, the steel frame had to be lifted a half inch to unlock it from the body, the steel frame was pulled back about 2 inches and then the Airbox was dropped into place. It took me 5 hours to do this and reassemble the driver's side components. I estimate 2 more hours to reassemble the passenger side and centre console. I estimate a total of 12 hours to do this job. I will never do it again. I will have a UA-cam video uploaded next week. Title will be 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan Recirculation Door Replacement.
How do you know the when the actuator is aligned?
my 2012 the heat and ac work fine on every setting but the floor...so i was thinking i needed to change 1 of the 3 blend door actuators , but now i am wondering if this is what i need to change the control panel (ie the panel with the buttons and knobs? ) My fan speed also works perfectly when i dial it up higher or lower , the only thing that doesn't work is when i set the hot or cold towards the floor, otherwise it all works perfect.
Did you figure it out
location of this part? that would help seeing a video of passenger seat not so much
Instead of complaining why not take the time and find it? The time it took for you to bitch is the time it takes to find it. So if you can't find it, I'd recommend going to a professional.
I've got a 2011. Driver's side actuator went out 2 years ago, no cold air, also no clicking, but it did have broken teeth so I replaced. The rear defrost blinking indicator wasn't on.
This month, rear defrost indicator does blink, advanced code scan shows problem with that same actuator. No clicking, but once again, a missing tooth. New actuator installed.
But now, if I crank it quickly to heat, it moves as it should. If I crank quickly back to cool, it barely moves and stops. But if I move from heat to cool with just two, slow, single clicks, wait for it to change, and then crank it all the way, it makes it over just fine. Examining the data from the knob and the blend door position, it believes that it moves from all the way heat to all the way cool instantaneously. It's almost like the blend door linkage is binding up. But when the actuator is removed, everything spins very easily.
Sorry for the long back story. I'm at the end of my rope on this one. Any ideas?
Tackled it yourself? Right on bud! Like hearing that from people
Did you buy a Mopar part or Dorman? Also check to see if there's anything stuck by the doors. Does sound like its getting resistance from something. But to go thru that many actuators that fast, there's definitely something out of whack. With the actuator out try moving the blend doors by hand, if you can. These are definitely not made to be accessible lol.
@Michael Zernie the blend doors aren't stuck. I can move the wheel easily by hand.
It is a Dorman part... I think my next step i think it's to go with a mopar. It feels like either the motor is weak or its somehow binding up when trying to move away from 100% heat.
I even tried to either swap the gears or motor with a mopar actuator with broken teeth, but I didn't want to solder the leads onto the motor, and the Dorman gear spindles are a different size.
@@xrkund okay. Hood to hear the doors move easily. I'm willing to bet its because its the cheap Dorman junk. Mopar part is quite a bit more money. But its worth it. When you get it, let me know if it works out for you.
Would I need to recalibrate the system or hvac system it I replace the door actuator? I also have a 2013 dodge caravan
No. I dont think so. I javent had to calibrate them for the hvac system. Pretty sure you just need to swap it out and thats it. Just be very carefull and pay attention to where the cables are going.
@Ray Donovan what this video. I'm subbed to this guy. I've learned alot on how to work on my 2013 GC from this guy. Hope it helps bud. Peace.
ua-cam.com/video/winfXPvjtgQ/v-deo.html
It's funny, many people recommend Mopar parts to replace this, but if these original Mopar parts were good, these wouldn't need repaired as often as they do. It's like replacing junk with junk.
Exactly what problem were you trying to diagnose and repair?
Blend door actuator wasn't turning the flaps inside the air box. So when I would turn on the a.c. it would just blow hot air.
Please help me... my rear defrost light is blink. Which actuator did you replace for that. Don't wanna take it to the dealer they charge to much and dont have the money either. Thank you in advance
That was the temp blend door actuator for the rear condensator/heater unit.
@@michaelzernie7092 ok thank you
hi I replaced m actuator and it is still blowing hot air. any ideas?
Is it the same actuator location? Are other locations able to blow cold air? You might have something blocking the blend door itself. Like a pen or something that rolled into the system. I know it's a pain in the ass but remove the actuator and try to rotate the blend door by hand. If it's good, then get a voltage meter and test the wire connections while changing the temp. If the voltage doesn't change while testing the leads then your dial component might be toast. Please do as much research as possible. I'm not a mechanic but I'm pretty good at problem solving. I have seen the dial have to be replaced in other vans. Hopefully this helps. Keep in touch. Goodluck
I had the passenger and rear changed last summer in our 2015 caravan, now they both screwed again.. Dodge has to fix these junk parts.
If they're not clicking they might just be out of alignment.
@@michaelzernie7092 can you show us up close how to line them up?
FYI: I was able to replace drivers side blend door actuator without removing any other panels or parts.
I hesitate to buy more from MOPAR, because the first actuators didn't even last 100,000 miles.
Same issue i went under the glove compartment. I see the actuator moving the arm. I can't hear the usual sound of a door shutting. The air does get way hotter when set on heat, so it seems like it working. When i switch it back to cold its stays warm and the driver side is cool, not cold, just cool. Freon is showing full, Clutch working, fan working. Not cooling enough until you drive for a while. When you stop at a light, it gets hot. 2017 Dodge Caravan. My daughter thought buying online through carvana was a good idea. ugh. Any tips pls. My Gbbys are all red cheeked here in Texas. :(
If it takes a while for it to get cold and then heats up again when the rpm drop, I'm thinking it might be the a.c. compressor itself. That's a new one for me. I'd recommend a cheap mechanic to have the compressor tested. Hope that helps.... good luck. Let me know how it turns out. Sorry I couldn't offer more help
@@michaelzernie7092 Gave up. Getting it diagnosed at the tune of 200. I'll post the results. Thank you
But....where is it screwed in, exactly?
All 4 actuators in the van are identical. Even the mounting points. Look at the one on the bottom left and you can see where its screwed in. Same as the top one. I would have shown it better, but good luck getting a camera up there lol.
Michael Zernie thanks man. I found one (to the left of the bottom glove box) I think that’s just for the choice of where the air is pushed (feet or face). but I’m looking for the location of the blend (hot-cold) on my 2015 G-Caravan.
@@prodyaz on the passenger side theres 3 of them in total. 2 on the left and one on the right. The one to control hot and cold is the top one on the left. Its a really tight fit. You'll need a micro wrench. Top screw is all by feel.
Michael Zernie thanks x 1000. Will dig in now!
Good luck man! And remember to take your time. If the actuator is ticking than its done. Stripped gear. If its just not changing temp than its just out of alignment and thats really easy to fix
In all these UA-cam nobody explains how to time the motor to match the blend door motion. Nobody explains what the marks on the actuator motor means. So this video is basically useless to me
I totally agree! Unfortunately if I used a cheaper part than it would last even less. Lol. Thankfully I haven't had to replace another one yet. Please keep in mind the van is almost 10 years old now.
Yea don't but the overpriced mopar parts. The mopar parts are the junk ones you already have in your car that can't stay alligned. Dorman makes parts 100x better than mopar. Just like my chevy coolant reservoir that got brittle and broke, the dorman version i replaced ot with had metal sleeves in those areas that get brittle. The stock parts are in most cases not better.
If you wanted to tear it apart and put it back together you NEEDED to show HOW you aligned the gears back together after you tested it with battery. Fail! You didn't tell us how to recalibrate the unit. Does it need some special tool or perhaps resetting or something. Most of us don't have a "recalibrating tool or laptop for servicing"...
No. You don't need a special tool. Otherwise i would have mentioned it. As for how to align the gears, if you had watched the video you would have seen how the outside markers are the alignment. The inside is just plastic gears man. Some people get and some don't. Go watch someone else's instructional d.i.y. video. Save your hate for at home bud.
@@michaelzernie7092 - NO hate, just disappointment as alignment is deeply important and was wondering about it working without a test scanner or electronic parts to do the job. So, you're saying that the gears have a marking and a line to calibrated it into alignment? That's all you had to do to answer a simple question. Without clarification, viewers may make mistakes and I wanted to avoid doing so because it's easy to be confused if something as important may not be discussed in a video.
@@jerrymontalbano3222 I think you can either use the 9V battery to move it or take it apart to move gears to align notches.
Its easier to just lift the gears out and align them. I used the 9v to see if it was clicking.
@@michaelzernie7092 Thanks, and after that you bolt it back on and that's it, right. Then if you have a scanner you can do the test to see if it's still giving you an error.
Damn guy didn't even show the removal or replacement procedures 😮
Yeah let's see you get a damn camera up there dude. You can't even see the screws. Don't like my video, go watch a better one.