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Marcel Willoughby
Приєднався 27 чер 2015
Відео
Rusted rear suspension coil spring support repair
Переглядів 903Рік тому
Rusted rear suspension coil spring support repair
2013 caravan hvac blend door actuator position solved
Переглядів 30 тис.4 роки тому
How to reset and install a blend door actuator
05 golf tdi bew vacuum testing solved
Переглядів 12 тис.5 років тому
05 golf tdi bew vacuum testing solved
My boost kicks in VERY early and lots of it if I dont let off throttle, I think my vacuum lines are mixed up
@@Fortenurg that may be a good starting point. Make sure the lines are routed correctly then make sure it’s all new lines as well. Try looking for images on google for the routing sequence. There are lots of pics online.
Hi, how is your vacuum reservoir covered in something like a aluminium foil ? Mine is not like this
@@Respec007 that would be factory. The aftermarket’s didn’t come with the aluminium foil. Thx for asking
Thanks for this... been living with that annoying clicking sound for the past 3 years, even when I put in a new actuator.
With most of these actuators, by the time you've dug far enough into the dash to remove one it's worth just replacing it with a new OEM part. A decent professional mechanic will do that because the time involved in just accessing the part costs much more than the part. Don't fall for the idea that your time costs nothing. As a wise man once said, you can always make more money but you can never make more time, so you don't want to do this job twice. If there are several actuators accessible once you've pulled the dash apart, I'd be tempted to replace them all with new parts even if that ended up costing a couple of hundred dollars. I think these plastic electromechanical parts buried deep in the hvac systems are all fundamental to the planned obsolescence of modern vehicles.
Yes ultimately you’re right. Nothing is for free but helping is a huge part of who iam. If I feel lead to help someone I will even if it cost me my time. It’s just what I do. Thx for the comments 😀
Some people like fixing things themselves and then get to know their car and the keep it for a long time if not forever ! 😅
Did the bad n75 cause stalling?
It could yes but with that make sure you all else is good. Vacuum hoses , turbo cooler hoses etc. if all else fails then I would be looking at the actual turbo.
I just manual swapped my tdi and there is no plat in the impeller, no leaking, I've found 4 vacuum leaks and it's driving better now, I have an extra egr cooling switch I might hook up in place of the n75, I have a p0101 cold that won't go away, causes rough idle and stalling when I shift to neutral with the ac on
I donot think this is a legit video. 1. The actuator is not wired so the computer does not know any calibration is happening. 2. After he allign it, he rotates to match the gear on the door, so the calbiration goes away as soon as you rotate.
You are exactly right. He doesn't match the blend door position with the actuator. Therefore, the actuator may be in the full open or full closed position, but the blend door could be in the exact opposite position of the actuator.
@@user-wd4lp1nx1u No actually you cannot turn that gear on the actuator with your fingers it won't move, so when he rotated the actuator to fit the door gear it was just to slip it in position which was a minimal movement not really changing anything.
Perfect. Thank you for the info. This is exactly the information I needed. I watched an hour of videos trying to find this info.
When I rev my vacuum goes more not less?
Brand new n75?
Sometimes the plastic gears break off. It looks like a gear is mission on the actuator you are holding. On my 2011 journey they are self calibrated.
His is as it should look. Mine is the same.
Good work having to make a new bracket for a Buick lasabra could buy a new one and weld it on but would rather try and make one
thx
Good Work!!
Thank you, that’s helped a lot. I am working on my actuator now!
Dude thank you!!! Been wondering why it wasn't working
So, I'm assuming that the vent door itself is positioned to full heat? I'm also assuming this is the passenger side since that's the one that fails most often? I make these assumptions because when these things fail, it's usually the passenger side and it's usually stuck on full heat. Please let me know if my assumptions are right. Thanks for the video!
You are right. Mine replaced 3 times for full heat on passenger side.
Great video, helped me a lot and saved me time and money , thanks
Would be nice if we can see the location!
I just did this. I had the blend door actuator off but still connected to the wiring. I just turned the hvac knob, the actuator turned and when it lined up with the arrow I unplugged the actuator. Installed actuator back and everything lined up.
00:43 so you are saying where that 'tooth' is missing that 'missing' space should be aligned with the middle raised line on the 'body' of the actuator and then 'set' back into place? Then after it is 'set' turn it to get it to click?
As far as I have found, there's no way for the computer to know the actuator position, other than by internal flap / door position, and possibly by temp sensor. If you take that actuator apart it's only a motor with gears. There are no sensors within the actuator itself.
Here's how I understand it to work on these. There are three actuators in the front system. One is the "temp door" that controls the air flow through the heater core. If that one goes you have no heat or no cold, depending on where it stops when it dies. The other two actuators control the mix of warm and cold air to each side of the dash. If one of those goes out you'll get full hot or full cold on that side. One actuator is mounted on the drivers side, and two on the passenger side.
As I understand it, there are 4 in the front. While 2 of them control the temp on the left or right side, the third controls whether you are getting outside air or recirculated air, and the 4th controls whether you get defrost, heat, or dash blowing. But I may be wrong, or this may be a different trim level or system. Please correct me if I am wrong.
You should have showed what side of the vehicle underneath the dashboard you were working, how to access it, how to take parts away to get to it, the noise is was making prior to the search and where to find it.
He is not under the dash , but out on the passenger side in the back of the van . That is where this action is taking place. And trust me it is a BEAR to get yo.
@@johnuhelski8613 I have changed both of them back there twice. Yeah, it's an involved process, but it's not hard.
so ungratefull.
Only when someone calls me this. You shouldn't get personally by insulting those who tell the truth. Go back in your hole, Miguel. :-)
Thank you
I will try this tomorrow as mine keeps saying out of range.. Hope it works thanks for the vid. I will follow up tomorrow
Follow up my a**
@@RealKansasMan LOL pretty funny. postion is irrelivant... serves no purpose as actuator goes in one way only so position does nothing I already got a Mopar brand actuator as the aftermarket has a different gear ratio so when the system calibrates it thinks its opening beyond its limit but its not its the gear ratio is wrong... where as a mopar is set. So if you buy aftermarket you need a dealer re calibration to set it up which in turn is way more $ so buy mopar and then no codes or issues
@@doobiessok, I think that’s the problem I am having, after market parts keep telling me it’s out of range
is vent door same as recirculation?
Yes you’re right there no video out there for this calibration thanks!
great video! what is the correct pump pressure? my pump is running at 22 in the pump main line. I wonder if i am loosing vacuum. thank you.
Which port did you connect to on the N75 valve with the vacuum pump?
Hi Phil sorry for late response but the line going to the actuator