Everyone else I’ve ever seen on UA-cam treats the leaf like a newborn infant, but you’re out here going full-on and getting it perfect immediately. 😂 Some of the people I watch are professionals, but this really shows the difference between “professional” and “master.” This was really enjoyable to watch!
Thank you for a most useful and interesting video, it feels like we are sitting in a corner of your workshop watching and receive the golden elixir borne out of distillation of 20 years of experience!
I really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise. Your videos are a pleasure to watch, and very helpful to those like me with less experience, looking to learn. Thank you! 😊
I never knew there were different sizing for different applications, I have a new art nouveau style mirror I want to do and I’m so happy I watched this.
Thank you for your videos. I've recently had restore a religious statue and your information has been really valuable. I wish I had known the difference between loose and transfer leaf when I started, but I'm making do with transfer. I also made a gilder's palette from an old bagpipe bag suede and it works nicely.
1000 "Thank you"! Another really helpful video! Some of these things I would never imagine to be so (just starting to experiment with gilding). Really good tips and very pedagogical approach. Thank you!
One of the best videos I've watched on the subject. I am going to try this on some wood carving (I've been using acrylic size and it is a bit meh). But I want to mention that your workspace is so beautiful and inspiring.
Thank you. Give oil size a try, it gives a much better finish. You just have to get your timings right (not too wet) and an even coat. I love my workshop, I've made it nice as I spend most of my time here. Might do a workshop tor video the front of the shop is lovely built in 1908.
Hi Ruth. I finally got around to guilding the gorgon on my Roman musculata (armor). It turned out well, though not brilliant. I used a 3 hour sizing, but I should have allowed more time for it to dry. Live and learn, I guess.
Manetti’s 12-hour size has been used in a number of noteworthy outdoor projects. In 2016 this 12-hour size was used by Carolina Izzo on the multi-karat ceiling of the Bishop Selwyn Chapel of the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Auckland, New Zealand. In 2017 master gilder Michael Kramer of The Gilders’ Studio Inc. used the 12-hour size on several large exterior fiberglass lions for the MGM Hotel and Casino in Cotai, China. Kramer had accelerated testing conducted on the Manetti 12-hour size to make sure it would last over time and meet his stringent requirements. Kramer said that the Manetti 12-hour size held up extremely well during testing. In his opinion, performance-wise “it’s like the old LeFranc 12-hour size.” When properly applied, both produce a radiant gilded finish.
Very educational and interesting video, Ruth. Thanks for posting! I love the way you brush on the gilding like painting and it seems to flow together!:)
@@RuthTappinGilder I re-watched this today and the suggestion about practice/testing the oil size makes great sense. No point wasting a lot of leaf until that is understood. Also, you mentioned "aging" the gold? Is there a video on that? Thanks:)
Ruth I've picked up two Agate burnishing tools, oil and I got Rabbit skin glue! Man that stuff is expensive! Considering what it is. I blame you if my wife says anything! "Honey, Ruth said I had to buy this! I can't help it!! 🤣😂🤣😂 I have a very small job to do as my first try at decorative gild! We will see! Thank you for being an instructor and a Scapegoat for my weakness! 😁😁
El video me resultó de gran ayuda, tecnica impecable, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. Sigo el programa de Maestros de la restauración y tus trabajos me parecen espectaculares. Gracias
Thanks, glad your liking the videos. I will be making an online course and aging the gold will be part of that. Got to have something I can make some money from. 😁
@@freehee2 once they are ready I'll either put them on my restoration website ruth-tappin.co.uk or make a new one just for them, haven't decided yet. But thanks for the interest, that's great.
Superb job, beautiful effect, I can't wait to try for myself, I have wanted to try for years and now seeing your videos I am going to try, plus I am very curious about how to age the gold afterwards.
I have just spent hours watching your videos. Starting with water gilding, and moving through to this. You are a wealth of information and skill, and I can't thank you enough for sharing your expertise with the rest of us!! Absolutely invaluable information you have shared. AND.. you saved me from a ton of headache/heartache by explaining the difference in water vs. oil gilding. I now know that I can't water gild my project. I have a question regarding oil gilding, as I saw quite a difference in this video. The water gilding you did on the inner part of the frame was so reflective and shiny, almost like it was made of pure polished gold. Can that finish be achieved with oil gilding as well? Again, thank you so much for your amazing videos!
Thanks 😊. Unfortunately you can't burnish oil gilding to get a high shine. There is a new product called Kolner instacoll, see this video ua-cam.com/video/b_XZGYxaaII/v-deo.html but the shine doesn't last long.
Thanks for your work. Best of all I have seen and clearly you are a professional that knows proper way to gilding. I wonder if you can tell me where do you put chase your true gold leaves and the sizing. Also I wonder if you give online classes or in person. Much appreciated knowledge you have. Thank you. Rohanna Salom
HI. thanks for the information. I found this product adhesive, ready to use for water gilding., from noris blattgoldfabrik and i would like to know if i can gild and burnish with imitation gold leaf patent. I already have my surface prepared with the gesso and bole layer. Just one more question, what is the diference between premium and default imitation gold leaf
@@susanafigueira2623 you can burnish metal leaf as long as it's water gilded. I think the difference with the metal leaf is quality and colour. They will both tarnish. If you are using any made size like the kolner Aqua size, It's not water gilding.
Hi Ruth, I have just discovered your channel as I've only just started learning gilding. Thank you so much for such detailed and pleasant-to-watch instructions. My dog and I are enjoying watching your day to day processes.😁 I am guessing that you and I are about the same age so I'm starting a bit late in life to master the art!! My question is, if oil gilding is so much easier why/when choose to water gild? Does it give a better end result? (sorry if you answer this in another video, I haven't got through them all yet!). Thanks again and God bless, Mary from Australia.🙏
@@TheLord_MyShepherd thanks 😊 You can burnish water gilding. Most frames have both, it gives a nice effect. The burnished water gilding next to the matt oil gilding.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you so much! I just saw your Weimaraner in another of your videos. I have such a special place in my heart for them! He/she is so sweet. Thank you for the time and effort you clearly put into your videos. 🙏 Much appreciated 🙏
Hi Ruth, fantastic video and really good work. I was wondering what colour did you add to the 12 hour size and was it a oil based paint colour? Wasn't sure if it was a yellow ochre colour. Thanks
Hi Ruth. Sunday isn't Sunday any more without your master class. Good use of the split screen to emphasis your point about architectural oil gilding. The brush you were using? Any particular make or hair type? Thank you for posting. Have a good week 👽
As a UA-cam watcher I know how disappointing it is not to get a new video. But as a creator it's so hard to try to do that every week. I did film the brushes but managed to leave it out? I get them from The Range, they are by hobbycraft pack of 12 nylon brushes
Ahh "the range". Yes know its not a five minute job to make your videos. It's incredibly difficult to explain practical skills that have taken years to perfect and are second nature to perform. The choice and cadence of your diction and the all encompassesing subject matter delivery involves many takes. You're doing great Ruth. Cheers Mike 👽
Its wonderful to see young people keeping these skills alive. I've been a signwriter most of my life and feel sad that since the introduction of plastic stickers many of the skills I learned are not required.
Hi Ruth! I've discovered gilding as a new hobby and I'm enjoying it thoroughly! So far I've been using a squirrel hair tip to lay the leaf down in squares and being really careful to not let the squirrel hairs touch the size. Your method here looks a fair bit quicker and more gold-efficient! Could you let me know what sort of brush works for that? Do you have to make sure to avoid touching the size with this brush too? Thank you ina dvance! :)
It's just a synthetic art brush, you need to abuse it a bit as new brushes won't pick the gold up. You don't have to be as careful as you do with the tip. Hope that helps.
A great video. Very educational. I have a question - how is the new gold layer patinated so that it matches the old frame? A video on this would be very good. Many Thanks.
Fascinating, thank you but one question. When you say 12 or 3 hour oil size, do you mean it takes 12 or 3 hours to dry to a point to accept the gold? Or do you mean it takes 12 or 3 hours to dry after application of the gold? I'm trying to re-guild parts of a Roman helmet. BTW, I learned more from your video in 12 minutes, than I have from watching countless other videos. Most informative.
I really like the look of this technique. I am just wondering if I could use a large, coarse brush to lay down the oil so that when I apply the leaf, it shows the brush marks for an expressive look?
This long oil size would flatten out. Try a 1 hour oil size. Or best way to get brush strokes is to use a thick paint or bole first to make the brush strokes then oil that.
@RuthTappinGilder thank you for your reply. After thinking about this for a while, I came to the same conclusion. The problem is that when I come to oil, it will also go onto the background. The only work around I can think of is to mix the oil with a paintable compound, but the compound would need to set before the oil is tacky. Hmmm.
I have just recently discovered your channel , I wish I had such excellent info when I was a professional picture framer. Now I am just starting pottery and I hope my question isn't redundant. Historically, in China, potters mended broken pots and covered the scar with gold. Thus adding both value and beauty. Could you either tell me which video I could find the procedure on, or address it in a future video. Thank you for your excellent videos.
Hi Ruth, thanks for the new lesson! Question: When you combine oil and water gilding in the same object, how do you choose where to apply both? Do you do oil gilding where there are repeated small details or too subtle to be treated first with the bole? Do you also apply gilding oil to composite reconstructions? Thanks again, Manuela. Have a nice Sunday!😊
Have a great Sunday too. 😁 I will make a video on this. But it's normal high points, bars, slips flowers and egg shapes are water gilded. The background (the rest of the frame) is oil gilded. When you strip a frame with paint stripper the original bole remains. This tells you where to do both. Everything yellow is oil gilded and any other colour bole is water gilded.
Hello Ruth. What wonderful videos. I’ve been looking for how to age or tone gold vids. Will you be making any? I gild at home. Oil and some water gilding making and repairing frame and furniture for under 10 years now. I’ve approached retired and working professionals for advice but have been brushed off, as expected but who could blame then. Any help of advice has/would be cherished. Regards Andy. Ps can you recommend any publications on the subject?
I love your videos. I am excited to try my first project and will use all of your advice. I am in the US and can't find or buy the Liberon button polish. Is there an alternative to sealing the project so that I can do oil gilting?
Hi Ruth, I've been enjoying your videos, great tips and advice. I have a question I'm hoping you can help me with. I have been a decorative artist for 30 years and have just had an interview for a contract job to do some gold leafing (they are providing all materials and the space) What kind of hourly rate would you suggest I charge?
If you are taking about acrylic size that is for crafts. It never truly drys. You wouldn't use that on an antique. Oil size is the traditional size and it drys. The longer time means the oil can flatten out and gives a better finish.
Hi Ruth , thank you for your very helpful video´s. Wanted to ask you , this frame you did a part of water gilding and a part of oil gilding. Why not everything oil gilding or everything water gilding ? Thanks and a happy new year !
To give depth to the gilding. You water gild and burnish the high points the rest the background is oil gilding which is more matt. Hope you have a great 2024.
Thank you i really love your vlogs very impressive quick question i inherited a few books of gold leaf from my late father is it possible after gilding to cover with epoxy resin ? I want to make a memorial for him for my mother in the garden Thank you in advance
@@RuthTappinGilder brilliant my late father was a fisherman and always did his own sign writing on his boat i cut out the name plank off his last boat before we scrapped it i have re painted and gilded the shadows on the letters and want to make into an epoxy table for my mothers patio thanks again
I have always had poor results with oil gilding. Primarily because the oil wasn't dry enough. Does this squeak test work with all brands of oil based size? Also how thick should I apply the oil size? Thank you. I very much enjoy your videos, they are very helpful.
Do you apply the polish to the bole or the gesso and do you sand it afterwards? Also, what kind of brush do you use to get the loose leaf onto the frame, hog hair?
You seal the bole with the button polish. You can lightly wier wool if you think it needs it. The brush I use is a synthetic art brush, you can use a gilders tip.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you. I can't seem to find a button polish similar to that. Would shellac work at well? I know some people apply it to gesso when they gild without bole.
@@williamhuber9639 yes button polish is just a coloured shelack. I use it because I like the way it deepens the bole colour. It will go on gesso to if you are not boling. But gold looks better on yellow than white.
Hi Ruth! I am loving your videos. I have a question, how do you give your gilding an aged look so there is definition to all the details? I would like my project to look like it is over 100 years old.
If you seal it yes you can, but it's not best practice, as the surface you are gilding onto may not last much longer. It's best to strip it back to the original bole layer and start there.
@RuthTappinGilder I've gone through cleaning with the tulpex you recommended, and it worked. I'll try a corner with stripper. I want to do right by this beautiful frame. Thank you for all your help.
Ah I see. I am gilding large sheer surfaces with white gold. I’m using twelve hour gold size, and then rubbing it with cotton wool once the gold is on. But it does look streaky. I believe the tack is just right. Should I simply use a soft brush and rub off any loose bits but to just expose any missing bits, and then just leave it for a few days before rubbing? Thank you.
hi Ruth, thank you for the videos; as a newbie at gilding, i'm learning so much! I'm gilding an intricately carved surface made with gesso with loose 22k gold leaves.. No matter how carefully I lay down the leaves, even 2 or 3 layers, when I take a close look, there always seem to be cracks and gold leaf tears. They are not that visible to the naked eye but when I zoom in, I see many gaps etc. Is this how all gilded surfaces will look up close ? I've never had a chance to look at another gilded piece closely, so I'm not sure what to realistically expect..
I haven't zoomed into oil gilding, but looking closely it should look solid. Are you picking up the leftover bits of gold and swirling them around the gilding to fill in?
You can oil gild directly onto wood you will see the wood grain. If thats not a problem seal the wood and use 12h oil size. You can gild one side at a time if its too big you you to do in one go. If you don't want wood grain than you will need to gesso it first.
Is there any way of sealing the leaf after it’s all dry with a Lacquer? I need to leaf some parts on a sword that will get handles can I use a 2 part urethane lacquer over it
Hi Ruth, enjoyed your videos and learning very quickly. When you Oil Gild for external use, does it need protection, a clear lacquer coat? or does the gold hold up in the weather. Subscribing!!!
Doesn't really need sealing unless it's being touched. I would recommend doubble gilding as that will fill any tiny part that could have been missed the first time. Holes in the gold is what let's the rain in behind.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thanks Ruth, so would I apply the size again, over the top of the gold and give a second gilding? Sorry just trying to get it right. Appreciate your help!
I wish I'd stumbled on your videos ages ago. I too was taught some what wrong, I guess they wanted to get things done fast because it was a business. So I have been using Quick Dry gilding oil size, and I even go too fast on that. Is there any way to fix the orange peel gross gold when you've placed it on too soon? Does just applying the oil size again and adding more gold smooth it out a bit? Thank for these life-saving videos!
Same thing for me, taught in a business all about turnover. Now I'm a good restorers but my turnover suffers! I have done that a couple of times and then had to paint strip it all off. Because the gold drys in that orange peel texture so everything on top will too. Have you tried making up a test piece of wood with gesso and bole on then oiling it and just testing the oil with your finger every half an hour. When you think it's way to dry, see if a piece of gold will stick. Just so you can get the feel of how long the oil size will go. 12h is much better than the 3h
@@RuthTappinGilder This is exactly what happens to me. I was always told at my company that I was too slow and too detailed, and am still that way. I restore ecclesiastical statuary and so I love to give them new life and make them as beautiful as possible, be it a true restoration or a new paint job. Unfortunately I was just working on one that is smaller than I usually do and so the deep crevices I can not reach with my fingers and the size pooled there and created what looks like a pile of gold dust inside the garment fold of the figure. I do not have time to strip it but have learned a lot from this, even though I’ve already done so many statues. But I am so grateful for your videos because as soon as you mentioned you had been trained wrong and have had to learn to undo that training so to speak, I was hooked. Once I finish this statue and get over that it’s not quite what I had hoped (though fortunately the clients never see all our mistakes), I will do these tests you mentioned. Thanks a lot Ruth, for your tips and for sharing your beautiful work.
@@MikeNewland In the middle of writing my gilding book. So many of them are reprints of very old books or just so brief it not worth the bother reading them 🙄
Love your videos. Quick question If I may. If one was oil gilding a frame that has just gesso what would you use if you wanted the yellow (or red) base colour under the oil gilding. Would you use yellow bole and just not burnish? Or something else to tint the gesso? A yellow varnish perhaps to both seal and tint at the same time?
I would always yellow bole gesso for oil gilding. You can't burnish oil gilding, the yellow is there in case there are any tiny splits in the gild. And because the gold is so thin, gold on white looks bad. The yellow gives the gold a depth. Hope that helps
Depends how big a piece you are gilding, may be go for a 3hour oil size. There is a 1-2 hour oil size, but it hasn't got as long an open time ( the time you can stick the gold for before it's too dry)
Frames use to be all water gilded and very expensive because of the labour involved. Oil gilding was used from the late Georgian period to replace all the water gilding that's not burnished, as it's a lot quicker so cheaper. The oil gives a matt look to the gold and then the water gilded and burnished highlights gives a shiny contrast.
@@RuthTappinGilder THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY. i was watching your other videos and i see that water gilding is for porous things and for non porous, you can use oil gilding. thank you for the clarification! love all your videos.
I"ve had some interesting effects with oil that's on the cusp of being too dry over all. It's not something that you can control though - completely random.
I know, if you could control it, how good would that be. It's a pain when it happens on a obvious flat area, where one bit didn't get as much oil as the rest. I have played around with it. But just one bit a bit thicker or thiner and won't work.
@@RuthTappinGilder wish I could show you. I think most Gilders would think it's rubbish, but I think It worked out appropriate. I'll be experimenting more. Thanks for your great videos.
Had to look that up, is it a gilders cushion? If so you can do, especially when starting out. But as you get more confident with the gold you can take it straight out of the book.
Everyone else I’ve ever seen on UA-cam treats the leaf like a newborn infant, but you’re out here going full-on and getting it perfect immediately. 😂 Some of the people I watch are professionals, but this really shows the difference between “professional” and “master.” This was really enjoyable to watch!
Thank you 😊 You get more confidence with the gold leaf as time goes by, in my case 23 years! 😬
Thank you for a most useful and interesting video, it feels like we are sitting in a corner of your workshop watching and receive the golden elixir borne out of distillation of 20 years of experience!
You're welcome 😊
I am so impressed that you are not wasting the leaf all over like so many people do. Beautiful work.
Thank you 😊
I really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise. Your videos are a pleasure to watch, and very helpful to those like me with less experience, looking to learn. Thank you! 😊
At last, a really useful tutorial on gilding. Thank you.
Wow that was a really interesting treatment to the gold leaf with that brush
So interesting how gilding works definitely something that I'm going to try in the future. Keep this video saved to help me then :)
Hey Ruth! We have a proverb: "the right man in the right place". I really like the way you explain. Good luck .
I never knew there were different sizing for different applications, I have a new art nouveau style mirror I want to do and I’m so happy I watched this.
This video is pure gold. I love your presentation and work on a real commission.
Thank you 😊
Thank you for your videos. I've recently had restore a religious statue and your information has been really valuable. I wish I had known the difference between loose and transfer leaf when I started, but I'm making do with transfer. I also made a gilder's palette from an old bagpipe bag suede and it works nicely.
@@Marcblur you're welcome 😊 glad the videos help.
What you are doing is AMAZING!
I'm hooked! absolutely fascinating !
😊 hope you enjoy going down the gilding rabbit hole.
Just now, I tried my first oil gilding. Just the head of an easterbunny statue. I works super! Thnx for sharing your knowlegde and experience.
You're welcome, glad it went well for you. 😄
Nicely explained. Beautiful work. Thank you.
@@luliluli1471 thank you 😊
Hello Ruth, I thank you for this very nice video. I think that I had watched you once in one of Drew Pritchard's TV shows.
1000 "Thank you"!
Another really helpful video! Some of these things I would never imagine to be so (just starting to experiment with gilding). Really good tips and very pedagogical approach. Thank you!
You make it look so easy... thank you very much and greetings from Morelia México
You're welcome 😊 👋
One of the best videos I've watched on the subject. I am going to try this on some wood carving (I've been using acrylic size and it is a bit meh). But I want to mention that your workspace is so beautiful and inspiring.
Thank you. Give oil size a try, it gives a much better finish. You just have to get your timings right (not too wet) and an even coat.
I love my workshop, I've made it nice as I spend most of my time here. Might do a workshop tor video the front of the shop is lovely built in 1908.
Hi Ruth. I finally got around to guilding the gorgon on my Roman musculata (armor). It turned out well, though not brilliant. I used a 3 hour sizing, but I should have allowed more time for it to dry. Live and learn, I guess.
Thank you for this one Ruth
Manetti’s 12-hour size has been used in a number of noteworthy outdoor projects. In 2016 this 12-hour size was used by Carolina Izzo on the multi-karat ceiling of the Bishop Selwyn Chapel of the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Auckland, New Zealand. In 2017 master gilder Michael Kramer of The Gilders’ Studio Inc. used the 12-hour size on several large exterior fiberglass lions for the MGM Hotel and Casino in Cotai, China. Kramer had accelerated testing conducted on the Manetti 12-hour size to make sure it would last over time and meet his stringent requirements. Kramer said that the Manetti 12-hour size held up extremely well during testing. In his opinion, performance-wise “it’s like the old LeFranc 12-hour size.” When properly applied, both produce a radiant gilded finish.
this video was excellent ! and that frame is stunning. wish it was mine to put a painting inside :)
Me too 😍 I'm so lucky to work on such nice pieces. Then it's sad to see them leave the workshop.
Very educational and interesting video, Ruth. Thanks for posting! I love the way you brush on the gilding like painting and it seems to flow together!:)
Thanks Will, the key is in the timing of the oil.
@@RuthTappinGilder I re-watched this today and the suggestion about practice/testing the oil size makes great sense. No point wasting a lot of leaf until that is understood. Also, you mentioned "aging" the gold? Is there a video on that? Thanks:)
Thank you so much for these videos.
interesting ... the final work Wow ... really beautiful🤩👏
Ruth I've picked up two Agate burnishing tools, oil and I got Rabbit skin glue! Man that stuff is expensive! Considering what it is. I blame you if my wife says anything! "Honey, Ruth said I had to buy this! I can't help it!! 🤣😂🤣😂 I have a very small job to do as my first try at decorative gild! We will see! Thank you for being an instructor and a Scapegoat for my weakness! 😁😁
😂 you're welcome
So satisfying 😌 ❤
El video me resultó de gran ayuda, tecnica impecable, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.
Sigo el programa de Maestros de la restauración y tus trabajos me parecen espectaculares.
Gracias
Thank you 😊
you refer to ageing the gold in this video and I wondered if you could do a few demonstrations on different methods.
That will be part of the teaching videos. I was hoping to start filling them this year, but have so much work to get through, sorry.
Hi Ruth. Great little gem of a video. Will you be making any demo videos on how to tone down the gold?
Many thanks.
Vincent
Thanks, glad your liking the videos. I will be making an online course and aging the gold will be part of that. Got to have something I can make some money from. 😁
@@RuthTappinGilder happy to sign up. Do you have a website so to view these paid videos?
@@freehee2 once they are ready I'll either put them on my restoration website ruth-tappin.co.uk or make a new one just for them, haven't decided yet. But thanks for the interest, that's great.
THANK YOU 😊
Superb job, beautiful effect, I can't wait to try for myself, I have wanted to try for years and now seeing your videos I am going to try, plus I am very curious about how to age the gold afterwards.
I have just spent hours watching your videos. Starting with water gilding, and moving through to this. You are a wealth of information and skill, and I can't thank you enough for sharing your expertise with the rest of us!! Absolutely invaluable information you have shared. AND.. you saved me from a ton of headache/heartache by explaining the difference in water vs. oil gilding. I now know that I can't water gild my project. I have a question regarding oil gilding, as I saw quite a difference in this video. The water gilding you did on the inner part of the frame was so reflective and shiny, almost like it was made of pure polished gold. Can that finish be achieved with oil gilding as well? Again, thank you so much for your amazing videos!
Thanks 😊. Unfortunately you can't burnish oil gilding to get a high shine. There is a new product called Kolner instacoll, see this video ua-cam.com/video/b_XZGYxaaII/v-deo.html but the shine doesn't last long.
Thanks for your work. Best of all I have seen and clearly you are a professional that knows proper way to gilding. I wonder if you can tell me where do you put chase your true gold leaves and the sizing. Also I wonder if you give online classes or in person. Much appreciated knowledge you have. Thank you. Rohanna Salom
@@rohannasalom I buy from Gold leaf supplies. I'm currently making some online gilding courses. I'll link them in the description when they are ready.
beautiful job! So informative thank you. If I am to seal a wooden panel, would I still hear that squeek? Want to cover a full panel with solid gold
Yes the squeek is from the oil size. If you don't gesso the wooden panel you will see the wood grain in the gilding.
Thank you so much Ruth! What brush are you using in this video?
It's just a synthetic art brush which is a bit tatty, that way it picks up the gold.
and can you burnish the gold using oil mixtion
You can't burnish oil gilding, just water gilding.
HI. thanks for the information. I found this product adhesive, ready to use for water gilding., from noris blattgoldfabrik and i would like to know if i can gild and burnish with imitation gold leaf patent. I already have my surface prepared with the gesso and bole layer.
Just one more question, what is the diference between premium and default imitation gold leaf
@@susanafigueira2623 you can burnish metal leaf as long as it's water gilded. I think the difference with the metal leaf is quality and colour. They will both tarnish. If you are using any made size like the kolner Aqua size, It's not water gilding.
@@RuthTappinGilder so "water soluble gilding mixture" is not for water gilding?
@@simonnoble6243 acrylic size is a form of mordant gilding. Water gilding is a difrence gilding technique.
Hi Ruth, I have just discovered your channel as I've only just started learning gilding. Thank you so much for such detailed and pleasant-to-watch instructions. My dog and I are enjoying watching your day to day processes.😁 I am guessing that you and I are about the same age so I'm starting a bit late in life to master the art!! My question is, if oil gilding is so much easier why/when choose to water gild? Does it give a better end result? (sorry if you answer this in another video, I haven't got through them all yet!). Thanks again and God bless, Mary from Australia.🙏
@@TheLord_MyShepherd thanks 😊
You can burnish water gilding. Most frames have both, it gives a nice effect. The burnished water gilding next to the matt oil gilding.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you so much! I just saw your Weimaraner in another of your videos. I have such a special place in my heart for them! He/she is so sweet. Thank you for the time and effort you clearly put into your videos. 🙏 Much appreciated 🙏
Hi Ruth, fantastic video and really good work. I was wondering what colour did you add to the 12 hour size and was it a oil based paint colour? Wasn't sure if it was a yellow ochre colour. Thanks
@@ryanphillips7715 I don't tint the oil size it's just left clear. The frame is boled in yellow bole and sealed with button polish. R
Hi Ruth. Sunday isn't Sunday any more without your master class. Good use of the split screen to emphasis your point about architectural oil gilding. The brush you were using? Any particular make or hair type?
Thank you for posting. Have a good week 👽
As a UA-cam watcher I know how disappointing it is not to get a new video. But as a creator it's so hard to try to do that every week.
I did film the brushes but managed to leave it out? I get them from The Range, they are by hobbycraft pack of 12 nylon brushes
Ahh "the range". Yes know its not a five minute job to make your videos. It's incredibly difficult to explain practical skills that have taken years to perfect and are second nature to perform. The choice and cadence of your diction and the all encompassesing subject matter delivery involves many takes. You're doing great Ruth. Cheers Mike 👽
Hola Ruth un bien enmarco para cuadro
Thanks a lot :)
Great video. Lovely job. Big job too. I got a bit confused at the end; were you using fake gold leaf to do the flat area or was it real gold leaf?
That was transfer gold. The same gold just on tissue paper. Its neater on flat areas than loose leaf.
Thankyou.:)
@@RuthTappinGilder
How about a video on aging the gold???
Aging will be part of my teaching videos, which I'm hoping to start filming soon.
@@RuthTappinGilder please keep me informed as I would really like to be a part of the class.
Hello, Wonderful videos! Can I ask, do you use the extra or double Gold Leaf or mostly the regular? Thank You!
@@investigativereports1622Thanks 😊
I only use extra or double for exterior gilding. The standard is good enough for frame restoration.
How do you select the Bruch
@@imde67 its just a synthetic art brush.
Hi Ruth...Can I use Red bole on canvas??
I'm not sure how well it will flex, it may craze. You can just use red paint if you are oil gilding.
I'll let you know by ruin it we learn!
Great video Ruth. What brush would you use for applying you leaf, would it be squirrel?
For oil gilding I'm just using a nylon art brush. Its water gilding you need the squirrel hair tip for.
Thankyou Ruth.
Its wonderful to see young people keeping these skills alive. I've been a signwriter most of my life and feel sad that since the introduction of plastic stickers many of the skills I learned are not required.
@@rogerdavies2319 so many skills are getting lost. 😔 Thank you for thinking I'm young 😁 23 years in gilding feels like a lot.
@@RuthTappinGilder Sorry Ruth, did not mean any disrespect. You are obviously a master of your craft but I am very old.😊
Hi Ruth!
I've discovered gilding as a new hobby and I'm enjoying it thoroughly!
So far I've been using a squirrel hair tip to lay the leaf down in squares and being really careful to not let the squirrel hairs touch the size.
Your method here looks a fair bit quicker and more gold-efficient!
Could you let me know what sort of brush works for that? Do you have to make sure to avoid touching the size with this brush too?
Thank you ina dvance! :)
It's just a synthetic art brush, you need to abuse it a bit as new brushes won't pick the gold up. You don't have to be as careful as you do with the tip. Hope that helps.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you so much! I'll give that a go. Best wishes!
@@GLaurelin good luck, it's so much easier and faster onec you get the hang of it. 😁
Do you know where I can find this button polish in the US?
If you can't find button polish just use shellac. Button polish is just a coloured shellac.
A great video. Very educational. I have a question - how is the new gold layer patinated so that it matches the old frame? A video on this would be very good. Many Thanks.
Glad you like the videos. Aging the gold will be part of the teaching videos. I should be making them at the start of next year.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you. 👍
Fascinating, thank you but one question. When you say 12 or 3 hour oil size, do you mean it takes 12 or 3 hours to dry to a point to accept the gold? Or do you mean it takes 12 or 3 hours to dry after application of the gold? I'm trying to re-guild parts of a Roman helmet. BTW, I learned more from your video in 12 minutes, than I have from watching countless other videos. Most informative.
The time on the pot should mean the time it's ready to gild. But do test first, it can depend on room temperature, how old the pot is etc.
Ruth, can an oil gilded surface be burnished?
Unfortunately no. It's just water gilding that can be burnished. You can try Kölner high gloss gilding system.
What kind of yellow paint do you use? Oil or acrylic? Name of the color?
It's gilders clay ( bole) here is a video on how to make it. ua-cam.com/video/Ru88pxB-0FE/v-deo.html
I really like the look of this technique. I am just wondering if I could use a large, coarse brush to lay down the oil so that when I apply the leaf, it shows the brush marks for an expressive look?
This long oil size would flatten out. Try a 1 hour oil size. Or best way to get brush strokes is to use a thick paint or bole first to make the brush strokes then oil that.
@RuthTappinGilder thank you for your reply. After thinking about this for a while, I came to the same conclusion. The problem is that when I come to oil, it will also go onto the background. The only work around I can think of is to mix the oil with a paintable compound, but the compound would need to set before the oil is tacky. Hmmm.
If properly applied, under ideal conditions, how long should it take for the oil size to dry?
A week or so when it's warm, could be up to a month when cold.
I have just recently discovered your channel , I wish I had such excellent info when I was a professional picture framer. Now I am just starting pottery and
I hope my question isn't redundant. Historically, in China, potters mended broken pots and covered the scar with gold. Thus adding both value and beauty.
Could you either tell me which video I could find the procedure on, or address it in a future video.
Thank you for your excellent videos.
kintsugi is lovely. I have the traditional resins all the way from Japan. Just haven't had the time to try it yet. When I do, I'll make a video. 😁
Is the yellow just a yellow paint? Or a special paint for pre-gilding?
It's called bole which is a clay based paint. It's yellow under oil gilding. Other colours under water gilding
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you for your reply. You have fascinating videos; I keep watching them.
Could I use wax for sealing the gesso, before applying the oil size?
Don't think that would work I, think the oil would dissolve the wax. Traditionally it's shellac but a varnish would work.
@@RuthTappinGilder thank you for the answer Ruth!
Hi Ruth, thanks for the new lesson! Question: When you combine oil and water gilding in the same object, how do you choose where to apply both? Do you do oil gilding where there are repeated small details or too subtle to be treated first with the bole? Do you also apply gilding oil to composite reconstructions? Thanks again, Manuela.
Have a nice Sunday!😊
Have a great Sunday too. 😁
I will make a video on this. But it's normal high points, bars, slips flowers and egg shapes are water gilded. The background (the rest of the frame) is oil gilded.
When you strip a frame with paint stripper the original bole remains. This tells you where to do both. Everything yellow is oil gilded and any other colour bole is water gilded.
Hello Ruth. What wonderful videos. I’ve been looking for how to age or tone gold vids. Will you be making any? I gild at home. Oil and some water gilding making and repairing frame and furniture for under 10 years now. I’ve approached retired and working professionals for advice but have been brushed off, as expected but who could blame then. Any help of advice has/would be cherished. Regards Andy. Ps can you recommend any publications on the subject?
Thanks. I will be making some payed for video's at some point. Aging the gold will be part of them.
@@RuthTappinGilder hi Ruth. Will you be producing the payEd videos soon. Regards Andy
@@abp2861 had so much work to get through. But I hope to make a start this month. Sorry its taking so long.
I love your videos. I am excited to try my first project and will use all of your advice. I am in the US and can't find or buy the Liberon button polish. Is there an alternative to sealing the project so that I can do oil gilting?
Button polish is shellac, so any shellac. A clear varnish should also work.
Is there any way to make transfer gold into loose gold?
It's usually pressed onto the paper quite hard. So the only way to get the gold off the paper is onto the size.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you!
Hi Ruth, I've been enjoying your videos, great tips and advice.
I have a question I'm hoping you can help me with. I have been a decorative artist for 30 years and have just had an interview for a contract job to do some gold leafing (they are providing all materials and the space)
What kind of hourly rate would you suggest I charge?
Sorry I can't answer that. It comes down to how much you need to earn.
Sister cool,, i want as what is the different between the normal glue before we are put the gold leaf ? And between the oil based size 12 houres???
If you are taking about acrylic size that is for crafts. It never truly drys. You wouldn't use that on an antique. Oil size is the traditional size and it drys. The longer time means the oil can flatten out and gives a better finish.
Hi Ruth , thank you for your very helpful video´s. Wanted to ask you , this frame you did a part of water gilding and a part of oil gilding. Why not everything oil gilding or everything water gilding ? Thanks and a happy new year !
To give depth to the gilding. You water gild and burnish the high points the rest the background is oil gilding which is more matt.
Hope you have a great 2024.
Is linseed oil good? It dries a little quicker but is it as hard as resin when it dries?
@@lenny108 I've not tried it. Have a go and let me know.
Thank you i really love your vlogs very impressive quick question i inherited a few books of gold leaf from my late father is it possible after gilding to cover with epoxy resin ? I want to make a memorial for him for my mother in the garden Thank you in advance
Yes you can seal the gold. You don't have to if the gold leaf is 23.5ct or above as it won't tarnish.
@@RuthTappinGilder brilliant my late father was a fisherman and always did his own sign writing on his boat i cut out the name plank off his last boat before we scrapped it i have re painted and gilded the shadows on the letters and want to make into an epoxy table for my mothers patio thanks again
@@ajw1467 thats such a lovely idea. Would love to see the end result. 😍
I have always had poor results with oil gilding. Primarily because the oil wasn't dry enough. Does this squeak test work with all brands of oil based size? Also how thick should I apply the oil size? Thank you. I very much enjoy your videos, they are very helpful.
You need to put the oil on thin. The squeak works on all makes of oil size and all hours.
Thank you @@RuthTappinGilder
Do you apply the polish to the bole or the gesso and do you sand it afterwards? Also, what kind of brush do you use to get the loose leaf onto the frame, hog hair?
You seal the bole with the button polish. You can lightly wier wool if you think it needs it. The brush I use is a synthetic art brush, you can use a gilders tip.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you. I can't seem to find a button polish similar to that. Would shellac work at well? I know some people apply it to gesso when they gild without bole.
@@williamhuber9639 yes button polish is just a coloured shelack. I use it because I like the way it deepens the bole colour. It will go on gesso to if you are not boling. But gold looks better on yellow than white.
@@RuthTappinGilder Ok. Thank you.
Hi Ruth! I am loving your videos. I have a question, how do you give your gilding an aged look so there is definition to all the details? I would like my project to look like it is over 100 years old.
Sorry that is part of the teaching classes.
@@RuthTappinGilder Ruth, do you teach online? If you do, is it a live course or recorded? I would love to know more about your courses! Thank you!!!
@@therealmarintiaescobedo I will be making some teaching videos which hopefully I will have available to buy next year.
@@RuthTappinGilder Brilliant! I can’t wait! By the way, I am watching the episode of Salvage Hunters that you appear in😃
@@RuthTappinGilder did you make the teaching videos?
What is button oil?
Button polish is a shellac. I use it to seal the frame before the oil size goes on.
If you have an existing sealed surface (possibly previously gilded or painted) can you oil gild over it if you first use button polish?
If you seal it yes you can, but it's not best practice, as the surface you are gilding onto may not last much longer. It's best to strip it back to the original bole layer and start there.
@RuthTappinGilder I've gone through cleaning with the tulpex you recommended, and it worked. I'll try a corner with stripper. I want to do right by this beautiful frame. Thank you for all your help.
Do you not rub it gently with cotton wool just after putting down the transfer leaf in order to even put the surface?
Once it dry, after a few day I rub the whole thing with cotton wool
Ah I see. I am gilding large sheer surfaces with white gold. I’m using twelve hour gold size, and then rubbing it with cotton wool once the gold is on. But it does look streaky. I believe the tack is just right. Should I simply use a soft brush and rub off any loose bits but to just expose any missing bits, and then just leave it for a few days before rubbing?
Thank you.
@@edwardmirza you need to be a gentle as you can while the oil is wet as you can scuff it.
hi Ruth, thank you for the videos; as a newbie at gilding, i'm learning so much!
I'm gilding an intricately carved surface made with gesso with loose 22k gold leaves..
No matter how carefully I lay down the leaves, even 2 or 3 layers, when I take a close look, there always seem to be cracks and gold leaf tears. They are not that visible to the naked eye but when I zoom in, I see many gaps etc. Is this how all gilded surfaces will look up close ? I've never had a chance to look at another gilded piece closely, so I'm not sure what to realistically expect..
Also, forgot to mention that I'm oil gilding the piece and using the brush like in here..finding this way very nice to work with!
I haven't zoomed into oil gilding, but looking closely it should look solid. Are you picking up the leftover bits of gold and swirling them around the gilding to fill in?
I’m working on a huge frame, bigger than that one your working on I think. And it’s wooden and i don’t know how to begin…. Any hints?
You can oil gild directly onto wood you will see the wood grain. If thats not a problem seal the wood and use 12h oil size. You can gild one side at a time if its too big you you to do in one go.
If you don't want wood grain than you will need to gesso it first.
Is there any way of sealing the leaf after it’s all dry with a Lacquer?
I need to leaf some parts on a sword that will get handles can I use a 2 part urethane lacquer over it
If I'm sealing I use shellac. Most clear sealers should be ok. But just do a test piece first to make sure.
@@RuthTappinGilder thanks is that as in the furniture Shellac or the finger nail Shellac
@@Shadowmosesarea51 furniture 😁
Hi Ruth, enjoyed your videos and learning very quickly. When you Oil Gild for external use, does it need protection, a clear lacquer coat? or does the gold hold up in the weather. Subscribing!!!
Doesn't really need sealing unless it's being touched. I would recommend doubble gilding as that will fill any tiny part that could have been missed the first time. Holes in the gold is what let's the rain in behind.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thanks Ruth, so would I apply the size again, over the top of the gold and give a second gilding? Sorry just trying to get it right. Appreciate your help!
@@gazsto6733 yes you've got it. 😁
@@RuthTappinGilder Thanks again Ruth, very much appreciated.
I wish I'd stumbled on your videos ages ago. I too was taught some what wrong, I guess they wanted to get things done fast because it was a business. So I have been using Quick Dry gilding oil size, and I even go too fast on that. Is there any way to fix the orange peel gross gold when you've placed it on too soon? Does just applying the oil size again and adding more gold smooth it out a bit? Thank for these life-saving videos!
Same thing for me, taught in a business all about turnover. Now I'm a good restorers but my turnover suffers!
I have done that a couple of times and then had to paint strip it all off. Because the gold drys in that orange peel texture so everything on top will too.
Have you tried making up a test piece of wood with gesso and bole on then oiling it and just testing the oil with your finger every half an hour. When you think it's way to dry, see if a piece of gold will stick. Just so you can get the feel of how long the oil size will go. 12h is much better than the 3h
@@RuthTappinGilder This is exactly what happens to me. I was always told at my company that I was too slow and too detailed, and am still that way. I restore ecclesiastical statuary and so I love to give them new life and make them as beautiful as possible, be it a true restoration or a new paint job. Unfortunately I was just working on one that is smaller than I usually do and so the deep crevices I can not reach with my fingers and the size pooled there and created what looks like a pile of gold dust inside the garment fold of the figure. I do not have time to strip it but have learned a lot from this, even though I’ve already done so many statues. But I am so grateful for your videos because as soon as you mentioned you had been trained wrong and have had to learn to undo that training so to speak, I was hooked. Once I finish this statue and get over that it’s not quite what I had hoped (though fortunately the clients never see all our mistakes), I will do these tests you mentioned. Thanks a lot Ruth, for your tips and for sharing your beautiful work.
Oh so for oil gilding the bole always needs to be sealed with shellac/button polish?
Yes, you've got it. 👍
@@RuthTappinGilder Thank you Ruth never seen that before in books!
@@MikeNewland In the middle of writing my gilding book. So many of them are reprints of very old books or just so brief it not worth the bother reading them 🙄
@@RuthTappinGilder Yes got that Ruth quick reprints no practical experience
Love your videos.
Quick question If I may. If one was oil gilding a frame that has just gesso what would you use if you wanted the yellow (or red) base colour under the oil gilding. Would you use yellow bole and just not burnish? Or something else to tint the gesso? A yellow varnish perhaps to both seal and tint at the same time?
I would always yellow bole gesso for oil gilding. You can't burnish oil gilding, the yellow is there in case there are any tiny splits in the gild. And because the gold is so thin, gold on white looks bad. The yellow gives the gold a depth. Hope that helps
It is my first time that I am trying gilding , what kind of glue do I have to buy ?
Depends how big a piece you are gilding, may be go for a 3hour oil size. There is a 1-2 hour oil size, but it hasn't got as long an open time ( the time you can stick the gold for before it's too dry)
Where can you buy oil gilding?
If you have a look in the video description, there are a couple of links to where to buy oil size.
So... Are you taking apprentices? 🙂
I'm thinking of starting so teaching classes in the workshop this year. But no apprentices yet, may be in a few years.
@@RuthTappinGilder Definitely put that in a video announcement, I'll be coming from Germany for the first class. Amazing work you do, thank you!
@@KnightGravy yes I will, I just need to workout what can be covered in a day or two. I don't want to overwhelm with too much info.
why are traditionally, some parts done with oil gilding and some with water gilding? so confused.
Frames use to be all water gilded and very expensive because of the labour involved. Oil gilding was used from the late Georgian period to replace all the water gilding that's not burnished, as it's a lot quicker so cheaper. The oil gives a matt look to the gold and then the water gilded and burnished highlights gives a shiny contrast.
@@RuthTappinGilder THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY. i was watching your other videos and i see that water gilding is for porous things and for non porous, you can use oil gilding. thank you for the clarification! love all your videos.
PURE ART. HOW MANY HOURS IT TOOK TO DO THIS?
The oil gilding would have been around 4 hours the whole restoration around 50 hours
Most beautiful work I ever seen
Congrats !!!! You are an artist !!!
Thanks, what brush are you using?
I am worried about dulling the gold!
It's just a multi purpose nylon art brush by hobbycraft. 😁
Thanks
I"ve had some interesting effects with oil that's on the cusp of being too dry over all. It's not something that you can control though - completely random.
I know, if you could control it, how good would that be. It's a pain when it happens on a obvious flat area, where one bit didn't get as much oil as the rest. I have played around with it. But just one bit a bit thicker or thiner and won't work.
@@RuthTappinGilder wish I could show you. I think most Gilders would think it's rubbish, but I think It worked out appropriate. I'll be experimenting more. Thanks for your great videos.
@@vince71362 I would like to see. If you want to send a photo, I'm @goldinmycoffee on Instagram
This tutorial is "gold".
'For free on YT' LOL.
Your technique dont use "coxim" .
Had to look that up, is it a gilders cushion? If so you can do, especially when starting out. But as you get more confident with the gold you can take it straight out of the book.