Hi Ruth! I just deleted my question. You'd already answered it in another comment. I can't get enough of your content. I've only been working on my 1st "real" project for..... 🤔 FOREVER! 😂 I admit, I've had to hold waiting to save $ for supplies, but I'm in for the long haul. Thank you so much for everything you've taught me here. ❤
I love your channel, having just discovered it by chance. I'm struck by the fact you actually have Renaissance type hair, that looks like it's been gilded too; proper Titian style 😁
Welcome back Ruth. Excellent work. To see you make mistakes and recover from them is very educational. I have some verigated silver in blue that I'm going to line the inside of a terracotta tube. Wish me luck 🤞 Have a good week 👽
Good luck with that. There are some great tinted silver leaf colours. I never get to use them as all my customers all want gold. But when they see 'the rainbow' they may change their minds. 😂
Hi Ruth, thanks again, nice video. On the web there are metal leaves in incredible colors. I so far i have used i classic colors but I'd be curious to try different ones. I tried to comment but I see that often the comment disappears, perhaps because I had put the links of the sites of Zecchi and Phase, I have seen that they have rabbit glues of different types, with different bonding power. I don't know. See you soon and thanks again, Manuela
Hi Ruth, I really appreciate your videos. I’m in the process of watching all of them! Do you make your composition from scratch, or do you buy it ready made. It seems a bit expensive ready made here in the UK. If you do make it from scratch, I would absolutely love to see a video on how to do it. Does composition shrink much, or at all, when it hardens/dries? It looks like a fascinating material. As I said, I’d love to see how to make it, but if it’s a bit of a trade secret, I understand. All the best.
Hi Tom, I'd only do this year's videos if I were you, the ones for years ago aren't great. In the UK it would be my compo for sale, think I'm the only person making and selling to gold leaf supplies and wrights of Lymm. Unfortunately it does shrink, which is a pain. I'll make a video on compo at some point, but as I sell the compo I'll have to keep the recipe a secret, sorry. 😁 The videos depend on what I'm working on at the moment. Should be starting a nice Adam style mirror soon, so that might make a good compo video. R
@@RuthTappinGilder thanks for the reply. I think it’s really interesting that you’re supplying the uk shops with compo. I’ll feel better about buying some now! I guess it’s a really specialist thing. I actually make sculpture and was interested in trying it for some of the things I make. It’s a shame it shrinks - in my head I was dreaming that it could be a good alternative to epoxy putties in certain situations, but maybe it would shrink too much. I think I’ll still try a small amount though and learn what it can do. All the best.
Hello Ruth, thanks for your informative content. I have a question...why use water and oil gilding on the same piece? How do you know where to use which type of gilding? Thanks again, John
For antique frames Its around 10-20% water gilding the rest is oil gilding. This is so you have a contrast between the burnish water gilding and the matt oil gilding. Usually the high points are water gilded. But you can just copy what was there.
Hi Ruth, Thanks so much for your videos, they are immensely helpful. I'm trying to learn this for a specific project. I have a flat surface with straight recessed v-grooves that change in depth and width and are basically covering the whole surface. When trying to water gild in one go over the grooves, naturally my metal leaf splits, when I try to push it into the groove and the result is awful, I'd say unpatchable. I want to have the top surface burnished and the grooves mat or even darker/patinated. Leafing each groove with a separate strip would be very tedious, the surface is very groovy :). I'm thinking about oil gilding the grooves and water gilding the top surface (high points). I am not sure about the order of application as you don't show the oil size application step here. I imagine the oil size goes on after all the burnishing has been done? Would it be possible to apply the bole all over, then seal, apply oil size all over and wipe it off the front flat surface with the help of some oil thinner to expose the bole just on the front surface and then do the leafing? That way I would hopefully avoid intricate brush application of oil/bole which I imagine would result in mistakes where they meet. How would you go about this? What is the correct order of application when combining bole and oil size? Thanks again!
You would water gild first and burnish. Then seal and oil the grooves. Any oil or sealer can be removed from the water gilding by paint stripper. But you have to be careful as this would removed any oil gilding it touched. Hope that helps. R
Hi Ruth, I was wondering about your oil gilding with metal leaf and wanted to ask what you finish it with to stop it tarnishing. Kind regards Gary. Ps love the videos.
The recipe for the water is in the description. Sorry not sure what you are referring to with scraper, but in the description of water gilding tools video there are links to all the tools I use.
at 2,45 min you cut gold leaft on black baord not the same as before it look ike it is (((( velvet )))) 'velour' tissue or some thing else maybe but a soft tissue to put gold left waht is this new baord surface ???
Sorry I understand now. The gilders pad is covered with suede. The black pad I'm using in this video is the Kölner gilders pad. I don't like it as it's too fluffy, so I use it for things like this, where using my good gilders pad might spoil it.
Hi Ruth, used the metal leaf yesterday and all was good (I thought) then applied a lacquer coat, as it's for exterior use and I could see the lines between the leaf? I didn't notice this yesterday and it looked really good. Any idea why when I have applied the lacquer they appeared, also this is a very flat image (Tree of Life) that is to be attached to a planter box outside. I used the copper metal leaf and it did look very impressive, the colour was exactly how I had imagined, would I need to double leaf, like you suggested previously? Thanks Gaz
Because the metal leaf is so much thicker than gold leaf it doesn't cover as well and doesn't fill in the gaps like gold leaf. The lacquer will have darkened the background ( the lines that won't fill in) I love the look of copper, but it's such a pain with finger prints showing up if you don't wear gloves. Oil gilding in cotton gloves is not much fun!
Hi, no, there is so much rabbit skin glue in the bole, when you wet that you are activating that glue. Some people don't even put glue in the gilding water
@@RuthTappinGilder I see. Just recently gilded a few frames in silver, had quite a bit of staining on the leaf… not sure if it’s the rabbit skin causing it or just limescale from the water. Thanks for your reply 😀
Great series of videos, I have a question about water vs oil. I’m watching through all of the videos in the hope to gild a very large but not so intricate mirror frame that is installed in our French house above a fire place. I was thinking of using metal (imitation gold leaf) as many people say it’s easier for beginners, maybe I’m changing my mind after watching this. But my beginner question is why water guild some areas (the high points) and oil on others and not just all the same?
The frames after the mid Georgian period have traditionally been gilded this way. The easy, flat or high parts are simple to water gild. It's hard/time consuming to water gild decoration. So that is best to oil gild. You then get a contract between the burnisheds water gilding and the matt oil gilding.
Hi Ruth. These videos are extremely helpful! Thanks for sharing. I’m gessoing frames with a flat section which I’d like to water guild and paint the rest. What order should I apply frame paint, bole and leaf? Should I paint the whole thing and then paint bole over the strip?? I’m a bit confused 😐
A frame that is both paint and gilt is called parcel-gilt. I would put the bole on first where you want to gild, then gild. Then paint the rest of the frame. You will find the gold goes over where your gilding and so if you have painted first you have to paint over again anyway. So might as well do it at the end. Hope that helps.
@@RuthTappinGilder Ruth, thanks so much for this advice!! My instinct would have taken me in the reverse order with less than perfect results! You’ve helped me dodge that bullet! Much obliged 🙏🏼
I didn't seal any of these as I want to see how long it takes for the metal leaf to tarnish. But something like Whitson’s Universal Lacquer would be good.
Yes you are right. So you would need to seal it after gilding. But for the amount of time the metal is wet before the water is absorbed into the bole (a few minutes) it doesn't creat a problem.
Hi Ruth, Thank you for your quick response! That has been on my mind for some time and you gave me a simple answer which I appreciate! I'm going to start gold gilding on metal picture frames. Can I use both techniques, water and oil and if so what do I seal my first coat with?
Hi Ruth!
I just deleted my question. You'd already answered it in another comment.
I can't get enough of your content. I've only been working on my 1st "real" project for.....
🤔 FOREVER! 😂
I admit, I've had to hold waiting to save $ for supplies, but I'm in for the long haul.
Thank you so much for everything you've taught me here. ❤
Thanks for watching. 😊 Hope it's going well. R
Always incredibly inspiring to watch you gild! Thanks for sharing this with us :)
I love watching your content. The patients you show with your craft and the skill live is mind blowing.
I love your channel, having just discovered it by chance.
I'm struck by the fact you actually have Renaissance type hair, that looks like it's been gilded too; proper Titian style 😁
Welcome back Ruth. Excellent work. To see you make mistakes and recover from them is very educational. I have some verigated silver in blue that I'm going to line the inside of a terracotta tube. Wish me luck 🤞
Have a good week 👽
Good luck with that. There are some great tinted silver leaf colours. I never get to use them as all my customers all want gold. But when they see 'the rainbow' they may change their minds. 😂
Wow! I think that is my favourite one. So inspiring Ruth. Have a great Christmas x
Awesome 👌
Hi Ruth, thanks again, nice video. On the web there are metal leaves in incredible colors. I
so far i have used i
classic colors but I'd be curious to try different ones. I tried to comment but I see that often the comment disappears, perhaps because I had put the links of the sites of Zecchi and Phase, I have seen that they have rabbit glues of different types, with different bonding power. I don't know. See you soon and thanks again, Manuela
Hi, the comments with links in are ment to be held somewhere but I can't find them, sorry.
Waw very good 👍
Hi Ruth, I really appreciate your videos. I’m in the process of watching all of them! Do you make your composition from scratch, or do you buy it ready made. It seems a bit expensive ready made here in the UK. If you do make it from scratch, I would absolutely love to see a video on how to do it. Does composition shrink much, or at all, when it hardens/dries? It looks like a fascinating material. As I said, I’d love to see how to make it, but if it’s a bit of a trade secret, I understand. All the best.
Hi Tom, I'd only do this year's videos if I were you, the ones for years ago aren't great. In the UK it would be my compo for sale, think I'm the only person making and selling to gold leaf supplies and wrights of Lymm. Unfortunately it does shrink, which is a pain. I'll make a video on compo at some point, but as I sell the compo I'll have to keep the recipe a secret, sorry. 😁 The videos depend on what I'm working on at the moment. Should be starting a nice Adam style mirror soon, so that might make a good compo video. R
@@RuthTappinGilder thanks for the reply. I think it’s really interesting that you’re supplying the uk shops with compo. I’ll feel better about buying some now! I guess it’s a really specialist thing. I actually make sculpture and was interested in trying it for some of the things I make. It’s a shame it shrinks - in my head I was dreaming that it could be a good alternative to epoxy putties in certain situations, but maybe it would shrink too much. I think I’ll still try a small amount though and learn what it can do. All the best.
As always brilliant, I'm very excited and inspired with your work, would you recommend a good starting kit for a beginner? Great videos thank you.
Gold leaf supplies have some gilding kits www.goldleafsupplies.co.uk/beginners-kits/gilding-kits/
Hi Ruth,
Whats your measurements for making the gild water , many thanks
The recipe for the gilding water is in the description. 😁
HELLO MY FRINDS IAM HERE BUCESE LEAREN EIGLSH VEREY VEREY VRREY VEREY THANK YOU .😊 .AND IAM FROM KSA WELCOME ALL TIME AGIN THANK YOU .😊
Hello Ruth, thanks for your informative content. I have a question...why use water and oil gilding on the same piece? How do you know where to use which type of gilding? Thanks again, John
For antique frames Its around 10-20% water gilding the rest is oil gilding. This is so you have a contrast between the burnish water gilding and the matt oil gilding. Usually the high points are water gilded. But you can just copy what was there.
I though we couldn't burnish the imitation gold leaf.
You can if you water gild it. But not if you oil gild it.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks so much for your videos, they are immensely helpful. I'm trying to learn this for a specific project. I have a flat surface with straight recessed v-grooves that change in depth and width and are basically covering the whole surface. When trying to water gild in one go over the grooves, naturally my metal leaf splits, when I try to push it into the groove and the result is awful, I'd say unpatchable. I want to have the top surface burnished and the grooves mat or even darker/patinated. Leafing each groove with a separate strip would be very tedious, the surface is very groovy :). I'm thinking about oil gilding the grooves and water gilding the top surface (high points).
I am not sure about the order of application as you don't show the oil size application step here.
I imagine the oil size goes on after all the burnishing has been done?
Would it be possible to apply the bole all over, then seal, apply oil size all over and wipe it off the front flat surface with the help of some oil thinner to expose the bole just on the front surface and then do the leafing? That way I would hopefully avoid intricate brush application of oil/bole which I imagine would result in mistakes where they meet.
How would you go about this?
What is the correct order of application when combining bole and oil size?
Thanks again!
You would water gild first and burnish. Then seal and oil the grooves. Any oil or sealer can be removed from the water gilding by paint stripper. But you have to be careful as this would removed any oil gilding it touched. Hope that helps. R
@@RuthTappinGilder That's excellent, you're the best! Thanks so much!!
Hi Ruth, I was wondering about your oil gilding with metal leaf and wanted to ask what you finish it with to stop it tarnishing. Kind regards Gary. Ps love the videos.
Glad you enjoyed the videos 😊
A clear shellac or something like www.goldleafsupplies.co.uk/modern-masters-sealer-effect/
what kind of water glid do u use to stick the metal leaf and where can I get that scraper could u help me
The recipe for the water is in the description. Sorry not sure what you are referring to with scraper, but in the description of water gilding tools video there are links to all the tools I use.
at 2,45 min you cut gold leaft on black baord not the same as before it look ike it is (((( velvet )))) 'velour' tissue or some thing else maybe but a soft tissue to put gold left
waht is this new baord surface ???
Sorry I understand now. The gilders pad is covered with suede. The black pad I'm using in this video is the Kölner gilders pad. I don't like it as it's too fluffy, so I use it for things like this, where using my good gilders pad might spoil it.
@@RuthTappinGilder MERCI BEAUCOUP thank a lot now I can start
Hi Ruth, used the metal leaf yesterday and all was good (I thought) then applied a lacquer coat, as it's for exterior use and I could see the lines between the leaf? I didn't notice this yesterday and it looked really good. Any idea why when I have applied the lacquer they appeared, also this is a very flat image (Tree of Life) that is to be attached to a planter box outside. I used the copper metal leaf and it did look very impressive, the colour was exactly how I had imagined, would I need to double leaf, like you suggested previously? Thanks Gaz
Because the metal leaf is so much thicker than gold leaf it doesn't cover as well and doesn't fill in the gaps like gold leaf. The lacquer will have darkened the background ( the lines that won't fill in)
I love the look of copper, but it's such a pain with finger prints showing up if you don't wear gloves. Oil gilding in cotton gloves is not much fun!
does it need to have no adhesives on before you varnish
The water wetting the bole is the adhesive.
Great video Ruth. When gilding with thin silver leaf do you make the liquor stronger with rabbit skin? Many thanks.
Hi, no, there is so much rabbit skin glue in the bole, when you wet that you are activating that glue. Some people don't even put glue in the gilding water
@@RuthTappinGilder I see. Just recently gilded a few frames in silver, had quite a bit of staining on the leaf… not sure if it’s the rabbit skin causing it or just limescale from the water. Thanks for your reply 😀
Great series of videos, I have a question about water vs oil. I’m watching through all of the videos in the hope to gild a very large but not so intricate mirror frame that is installed in our French house above a fire place. I was thinking of using metal (imitation gold leaf) as many people say it’s easier for beginners, maybe I’m changing my mind after watching this. But my beginner question is why water guild some areas (the high points) and oil on others and not just all the same?
The frames after the mid Georgian period have traditionally been gilded this way. The easy, flat or high parts are simple to water gild. It's hard/time consuming to water gild decoration. So that is best to oil gild. You then get a contract between the burnisheds water gilding and the matt oil gilding.
Your hands would look amazing with a French manicure :)
😂 wouldn't last long doing my job
Hi Ruth, Thanks for your hep in the past. Do you have a recommendation for the best burnishers, avoid scratches tec. - Thanks! Ian
I use a 24, dog tooth shape agate burnisher for almost all the burnishing.
@@RuthTappinGilder Hi Ruth, Do you have a preferred manufacturer? Thanks Ian
@@evanescentwave181 in the description of the water gilding tools video there is a link to the one I use from gold leaf supplies.
Hi Ruth. These videos are extremely helpful! Thanks for sharing. I’m gessoing frames with a flat section which I’d like to water guild and paint the rest. What order should I apply frame paint, bole and leaf? Should I paint the whole thing and then paint bole over the strip?? I’m a bit confused 😐
A frame that is both paint and gilt is called parcel-gilt. I would put the bole on first where you want to gild, then gild. Then paint the rest of the frame. You will find the gold goes over where your gilding and so if you have painted first you have to paint over again anyway. So might as well do it at the end. Hope that helps.
@@RuthTappinGilder Ruth, thanks so much for this advice!! My instinct would have taken me in the reverse order with less than perfect results! You’ve helped me dodge that bullet! Much obliged 🙏🏼
A question: is there a receipt to MAKE armenia bolus? Thanks!
Same as making bole, here is a video on how to make bole ua-cam.com/video/Ru88pxB-0FE/v-deo.htmlsi=Msn_VcYDjQRf4AhB
Hi Ruth! Great video as always. What type of varnish do you put on top of the metal leaf? Does it not remove the nice glow from it?
I didn't seal any of these as I want to see how long it takes for the metal leaf to tarnish. But something like Whitson’s Universal Lacquer would be good.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thanks. How about real gold but foremost real silver. Do you use any varnish on those?
@@MKWHD not for gold, you have to for silver, but I have stopped using silver, I now just use palladium or tin
@@RuthTappinGilder So palladium and tin does not oxidize as silver does?
@@MKWHD palladium won't tarnish. Tin probably will but not as bad as silver. I find tin a nicer colour than silver.
What about oxidation? As far as I know water and metal leaf are not compatible.
Yes you are right. So you would need to seal it after gilding. But for the amount of time the metal is wet before the water is absorbed into the bole (a few minutes) it doesn't creat a problem.
Is it just plain water?
The recipe for the water is in the description of the video.
what do you use golu??
Question......Why do you use both water gilding and oil gilding on the same piece?
It gives a contrast and depth to the gilding. Matt oil gilding as the background and burnished water gilding for the highlights
Hi Ruth, Thank you for your quick response! That has been on my mind for some time and you gave me a simple answer which I appreciate! I'm going to start gold gilding on metal picture frames. Can I use both techniques, water and oil and if so what do I seal my first coat with?
@@Rk14-ly2hq just oil gilding for metal. Have a look at What can you water gild and why video.