@@JoelTremblayCA I deleted my question right away after I read the rest of the comments and found and saw your follow up video....unfortunately you got back to me before I deleted it, lol!! Thanks and great work Joel!! :)
Nice job the only thing I can see is you might want to leave more room around the exhaust flex pipe it does get quite warm around the flex exhaust pipe. I have installed a number of these heaters , I error on the side of caution this type of heater is usually mounted to metal not wood, if you got combustible materials to close, installed quite a few of these and I need to put a 4”. Hole with a hole saw
😅 your cool man. Made me laugh. Love the build videos. thanks. Im doing a 5x8 also, and these are the best. It's like a how-to guide for my trailer, lol. Im going to raise my roof 6 or 7 inch first and address a leak and corrosion issue on top. Take care man, thanks
I purchased an aluminum nose box from Princess Auto that will accommodate both the fuel tank and pump, also I was pricing the solar gear with inverters, chargers and batteries, I concluded that buying a Bluetti system with fold up solar panels might be a better option. Your comments would be useful, also I enjoy your videos and methodology.
Thanks for following the build along! I actually talk about the advantages of the all in one (Bluetti) vs. Diy system on my Bluetti video. Good luck with your build! Thanks for watching.
Wouldn't you want to insulate the diesel fuel line? Diesel fuel doesn't like to flow that well in cold temps, especially if you're out ice-fishing on a lake or something, those little plastic fuel lines would be brittle in very cold temps, too. Still tho, watching your channel makes me very tempted to buy a cargo trailer and make it into a camper, you make everything look simple and relatively simple to do. Would have thought such a conversion would be hard or need professional workers until I found your channel! Keep it up!
Thank you! And I'm not entirely sure. The lines are relatively thick, I was surprised by the hole in the line. They are quite small. Time will tell! If I have to replace / insulated the fuel hose down the line I will. Thanks for the feedback!
I hope you are still reading comments. I like the idea of installing the fuel pump outside. Is there any worry of the pump freezing in extreme cold temperatures?
I am getting aluminum box for the front similar to yours and was wondering if the heater could be mounted in the box and just the heat vented into the traiiler with the controller mounted inside also? Thanks for the great video!!!!
The fuel outlet placement will leave a good amount of diesel left in the tank, so you will lose 1-2L of the 10L capacity of the tank.. Just think about replacing it with a 20l boat tank maybe? That one you could hook up under the trailer, they are flat and don't take much space either 👌
Good idea and yes I'm aware of the placement doesn't let you get every drop of fuel but I didn't want to clog the pump with any debris. Now that the tanks been installed for over 8 months, I've been having issues with the cheap plastic it's made of! Boat tank is a good idea
What I done when installing the spigot in the fuel tank was drill the hole, then use the fuel pipe through the small hole and out the big hole put the spigot on, then pull the spigot on the pipe out through the small hole it’s makes it easier
One thing that would be really helpful though is if the videos in the playlist were in the order in which everything was built. It would be much easier to follow. Love the project!
Did the big black flex vent hose come with the heater? You could install one of those little fuel filters like they use in landscape blowers, hedge trimmers and weed eaters on a flexible tube so you take the fuel off the bottom of the tank. Just mentioned it so I remember when I come back and watch this when I install my heater. Yeah, don't use any sealant. That's what the O-ring is for. :o)
@@JoelTremblayCA I have the same heater as you, I went to install it in my build but had too many frame members in the way where I wanted to install it, so it never got installed. I might just use it to heat my garage!
@@JoelTremblayCA Unfortunately it's impossible where I wanted it. I just have a lot of cross and angle frame members in the small area I wanted to use. I could put it someplace else sure, but I wanted it in a specific spot. On another note, your video on your floor installation has a glitch. We can't see any of your replies to comments people have left. Did the floor just float, or is there adhesive on the back of it? How is it holding up?
@@johntalbert8227 right understood! I'm sure whatever you come up with will work. Thanks for bringing that to my attention! I had no idea. I'll look into it. The floor is "floating" with no adhesive and had a foam underlayment. 1 year later floor is still holding up great!
Very nice install video. I saw another video where they used a heat rated caulk around the hole in the floor. Since heat rises, I was wondering why you are running the heat duct up the wall.
I'm thinking of installing a diesel heater in my insulated 8.5x20 cargo conversion trailer. I'm able to run a straight 10-12 foot warm air shaft on the floor along the passenger side. I will have 3 or 4 adjustable-louvered vents along the air shaft. Your thought on this Joel would be appreciated! Do you think the heater’s fan will move enough warm air to reasonably heat the living space? Maybe I'll need a 8kW model or something? TIA.
I'd experiment with a larger heater for sure! I've seen people do what you are thinking of. I'd recommend joining Chinese diesel heater group on Facebook.
2kw is plenty if it's insulated. Think about a elec space heater, it would be plenty if insulated and it's 1500 watts. Everyone oversized these units and has to have them on low which soots them up and actually increases the case temp due to low air flow, better to have a smaller one running in mid range.
What are your thoughts on using a diesel heater vs propane? Especially for winter camping since propane is good to -40 deg and usually doesn't need any electricity to run. Versus diesel starting to gel around 10 deg and relying on electricity to run. The main difference I see would be if you are worried about not having enough ventilation for propane byproducts?
In Canada, we don't normally have problems with diesel gelling, I'm assuming they treat it with additives. You can also run diesel heaters on kerosene. Yes propane doesn't need power but you still want to have it vented well, otherwise you'll end up with lots of moisture. The good propane heaters get quote expensive so in the end I'm still vouching for a diesel heater with battery. Of course everything has its purpose and what works for someone might not work for someone else. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned, I have another video on diesel heaters coming out this week!
Dude!!!! You need more clearance around the exhaust so it doesn't burn the wood. Thats why those screws are there. So people would make the holes bigger.
Nice video i was looking to purchase a 8kw heater for my 6x12 vnose trailer and how to install it for my sxs to melt the ice out of it during the winter here in canada its -40c windshield factor. Its not insulated but i think with the 8kw it will do the job. Just asking myself if it will heat enough to dry the floor
@@F250-expedition yeah I'm not an expert on these things but I remember another guy on UA-cam doing a test between the 5 & 8 and there was no difference. I'd suggest asking in the Chinese diesel heater group on Facebook!
Could u please tell me what "type" of screws (and where u bought them) with the large washers securing your foamular insulation to the bottom of the trailer are called? I was looking for them at Lowes/Home Depot but couldnt find them (whatever they're called). So I just used Liquid Nails. Although, I'd be more confident if I had those Large Washer/Screws holding the foamular underneath as well. Thank you in advance! AE
They are called fender washers. The screws if going into wood, should be zinc plated deck screws at least 1/2" longer than the insulation. Also if you can pull up the deck from the frame before you install insulation, roll spar varnish on both sides of your decking material whether it is osb or plywood at least two coats. It will greatly improve the durability and water resistance of your deck. If your unable to pull the decking, at least coat the underside with rubberized undercoating to give it some moisture resistance. Covering the bottom of the frame with roofers tin will add additional protection from moisture and road debris. Plus helps with mpg by reducing turbulent air under trailer. Professionally restored vintage Airstream trailers for years.
That was something I considered but at the same time the fuel line is very close to it as well. I might add a aluminum sleeve around the exhaust to keep it separated. Thanks for your feedback!
Cut the exhaust pipe in half and put that muffler with the drain facing down in the middle and Wrap up the exhaust with header exhaust wrap and lookup what is called a turret mount
so after some use, how's the plywood doing? did you get any charring? the exhaust on my diesel gets to 300 degrees and I'm worried about running it straight through the plywood like that.
I'll kindly direct you to this follow up video lol ua-cam.com/video/2EnqGCNNflw/v-deo.html Short answer is, yes there was charring. Need to have some kind of metal gusset / larger hole. I used a soup can!
i know im a little late.. the light is on indicating a blown fuse since there is no fuse in the socket.. it will extinguish as soon as you insert a fuse.. this is intentional by design.. your unit is not drawing any power.. its simply the fuse panel doing its intended job
Yes it is designed to show the light when there is a draw and a fuse is blown. However, there shouldn't be a light on if the unit is off and there is no fuse. I confirmed this with other components on the system. For example the ceiling fan, I took the fuse out and the light did not come on, I turned the fan on and then the little light came on. On these little heater units the display is always on if you have it hooked up to power, thus always drawing a current. I installed an inline switch to be able to turn the display off when not in use.
@@JoelTremblayCA yes. You are correct. If there is no completed circuit anywhere, then the light will not work . It must see the device on the load in order to activate. Even when the heaters are off, the electronics are still in a standby state , thus allowing current to complete the circuit, lighting the fuse blown led. No fuse and a blown fuse is the same open circuit condition . I always suggest using a switch with a relay to the fuse for the device, especially with devices that create a large load such as these heaters . I use one in my build and the switch simply provides the low current to activate the relay, saving the switch from destruction by high current loads especially while the glow plug is active.
Awesome build,,,…question for you . I see your fuel pump is amounted above the level of the heater and the fuel pump has to pump fuel down and back up to the heater. Is this causing you any issues or is it working well?
I enjoy watching videos of your build. I have concerns about an element of this install. The position and securing of the fuel tank. My fear is that over time, the flexing and twisting of the trailer as it rolls, will cause rubbing between the exterior bulkhead of the trailer and the fuel tank wall closes to that bulkhead. Add the normal vibrations of road travel and I fear it will wear thin, where this two contact. It will result in a thinning of the plastic tank ( in spots) and be the impetus of a small hole or crack and a loss of fuel. No judgements. Just passing along an observation. Be well.
My cargo trailer conversion is a 7.5' x 7' x 16'. I have to wait until the outside ambient temp is 50 degrees or less otherwise, even set to low(1.6hz) I run myself out of my trailer. You may have already discovered this. Also, for longevity, make sure you run your heater on HIGH FOR 15 MINUTES each time before you shut it off. This will burn some of the carbon out.
Thanks for the tip! Will do that next time. Ran the unit over dozen times now without issue out of the box. It does get warm even on lowest setting. Figuring out the exact opening I need in the roof vent to compensate for this. Afterburner upgrade looks appealing, more programmable features and temp control.
@@Floridawoodsbanshee It has a built in thermostat with the remote. It's not the best as it will stay on continuously so you have to learn how to divert the extra heat. There are mods you can buy to set it up better but they are expensive.
@@JoelTremblayCA oh okay. Thanks for explanation 👍 I was reading other comments. One guy said if you have bigger living space, the smaller unit works better. I'm looking at 8 × 16 and 7 foot tall. So I'm going to try 5k unit. Your build is awesome. I really like the ceiling. So nice with the puck lights. I could only imagine what you could create with more square footage.
@@Floridawoodsbanshee thanks for watching! Yes a 5K unit is the biggest size you can go with. It might take a while to heat up that entire space but not impossible! Good luck with your build.
I have the same kit. Since when have you ever seen a TWO-PIECE fuel filter an any application?...NEVER. My fuel filter lasted two weeks. The one you have will fail and very soon. Go to your auto parts store and get a good fuel filter.
Cool! Thanks. BTW, Have u ever thought if you could somehow heat water from the exhaust of your diesel heater? Kill 2 birds w/one stone so to speak! Just a thought
They are pretty pathetic. I'd recommend upgrading all the external components on these things for best reliability. Ie tank, fuel line, exhaust, and intake tube / air filter. Thanks for watching!
@@ericswild I should do an update video on just the diesel heater system. If you look up my newer trailer build video you will see all the upgrades that I did.
I did edit this detail in a future video. Made the exhaust hole larger and added my own metal flange. I made sure to post this in the video description. Floor never caught on fire though... Thanks for watching!
I could see the need for a draincock on the fuel tank just in case of water or trash contamination. I love watching the build.
Good idea, so far it hasn't been needed. Thanks for watching!!
At first I was thinking electric heat with a generator powering it but now leaning towards one of these diesel heaters!! Thanks for the video!
Yes, make the hole larger!! Update video on my channel where I fix this. Otherwise, the heater works great!
@@JoelTremblayCA I deleted my question right away after I read the rest of the comments and found and saw your follow up video....unfortunately you got back to me before I deleted it, lol!! Thanks and great work Joel!! :)
Great video! I would be concerned about the fuel line getting loaded with snow, ice and dirt while traveling but looks great.
@@DanielLevecque 4 years with same setup and no issues at all with snow / ice. Thanks for watching
Your trailer is coming along great!
Thank you
Nice job the only thing I can see is you might want to leave more room around the exhaust flex pipe it does get quite warm around the flex exhaust pipe. I have installed a number of these heaters , I error on the side of caution this type of heater is usually mounted to metal not wood,
if you got combustible materials to close, installed quite a few of these and I need to put a 4”. Hole with a hole saw
Yes good catch. My latest video I fix this issue. You can see the wood all burnt!
😅 your cool man. Made me laugh. Love the build videos. thanks. Im doing a 5x8 also, and these are the best. It's like a how-to guide for my trailer, lol. Im going to raise my roof 6 or 7 inch first and address a leak and corrosion issue on top. Take care man, thanks
Nice install. Very organized !
Thank you!
I purchased an aluminum nose box from Princess Auto that will accommodate both the fuel tank and pump, also I was pricing the solar gear with inverters, chargers and batteries, I concluded that buying a Bluetti system with fold up solar panels might be a better option. Your comments would be useful, also I enjoy your videos and methodology.
Thanks for following the build along! I actually talk about the advantages of the all in one (Bluetti) vs. Diy system on my Bluetti video. Good luck with your build! Thanks for watching.
Wouldn't you want to insulate the diesel fuel line? Diesel fuel doesn't like to flow that well in cold temps, especially if you're out ice-fishing on a lake or something, those little plastic fuel lines would be brittle in very cold temps, too. Still tho, watching your channel makes me very tempted to buy a cargo trailer and make it into a camper, you make everything look simple and relatively simple to do. Would have thought such a conversion would be hard or need professional workers until I found your channel! Keep it up!
Thank you! And I'm not entirely sure. The lines are relatively thick, I was surprised by the hole in the line. They are quite small. Time will tell! If I have to replace / insulated the fuel hose down the line I will. Thanks for the feedback!
It takes VERY COLD temps for diesel to gel. In this application, you'll never need to employ measures to keep it from doing so.
@@H2OTOYS-90 you will if it's a snowmobile trailer.
I hope you are still reading comments. I like the idea of installing the fuel pump outside. Is there any worry of the pump freezing in extreme cold temperatures?
I read every single comment! Absolutely haven't had any issues with my setup.
I am getting aluminum box for the front similar to yours and was wondering if the heater could be mounted in the box and just the heat vented into the traiiler with the controller mounted inside also? Thanks for the great video!!!!
With some modifications you can definitely make that work. Thanks for watching!
The fuel outlet placement will leave a good amount of diesel left in the tank, so you will lose 1-2L of the 10L capacity of the tank.. Just think about replacing it with a 20l boat tank maybe? That one you could hook up under the trailer, they are flat and don't take much space either 👌
Good idea and yes I'm aware of the placement doesn't let you get every drop of fuel but I didn't want to clog the pump with any debris.
Now that the tanks been installed for over 8 months, I've been having issues with the cheap plastic it's made of! Boat tank is a good idea
What I done when installing the spigot in the fuel tank was drill the hole, then use the fuel pipe through the small hole and out the big hole put the spigot on, then pull the spigot on the pipe out through the small hole it’s makes it easier
Ah yes, that makes sense. Would have saved me a few minutes haha! Thanks for sharing
One thing that would be really helpful though is if the videos in the playlist were in the order in which everything was built. It would be much easier to follow. Love the project!
Hey James! The videos in the playlist should be in order. I will take a look and make sure that they are. Thanks for letting me know
Hey James, I just checked the playlist and they are in order. Start from the bottom and work your way up!
Congratulations on the successful install!! This upload was helpful because I will be installing one soon. Thanks!
Thank you! Good luck with the install.
Did the big black flex vent hose come with the heater? You could install one of those little fuel filters like they use in landscape blowers, hedge trimmers and weed eaters on a flexible tube so you take the fuel off the bottom of the tank. Just mentioned it so I remember when I come back and watch this when I install my heater. Yeah, don't use any sealant. That's what the O-ring is for. :o)
Yeah the black fuel line came with the kit, you cut to size. In the future I will be adding a fuel cut off / disconnect! Thanks for watching!!
Great video, thank you for the time to put it all together. This was the first of your videos I have watched. I will check out your other ones.
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it 😁
@@JoelTremblayCA I have the same heater as you, I went to install it in my build but had too many frame members in the way where I wanted to install it, so it never got installed. I might just use it to heat my garage!
@@johntalbert8227 it really doesn't need much space to run through the floor, just one opening around 3-4" in diameter.
@@JoelTremblayCA Unfortunately it's impossible where I wanted it. I just have a lot of cross and angle frame members in the small area I wanted to use. I could put it someplace else sure, but I wanted it in a specific spot. On another note, your video on your floor installation has a glitch. We can't see any of your replies to comments people have left. Did the floor just float, or is there adhesive on the back of it? How is it holding up?
@@johntalbert8227 right understood! I'm sure whatever you come up with will work.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention! I had no idea. I'll look into it. The floor is "floating" with no adhesive and had a foam underlayment. 1 year later floor is still holding up great!
That exhaust pipe is too close to the plywood cutout. If it turns darker in color after a few runs of the heater......
You're correct! Check my latest video where I fix this issue.
Would it make sense to have the inlet hose on the inside of the house, seeing that the air inside is already cleaner and warmer?
There is already and intake for the heater, the other smaller intake is for fresh air. Thanks for watching!
Very nice install video. I saw another video where they used a heat rated caulk around the hole in the floor.
Since heat rises, I was wondering why you are running the heat duct up the wall.
Thanks! I haven't heard of using heat caulking. Good idea. I only ended up running the heat duct 4" from the floor.
Looks good ,I was thinking if the tank is higher do you need the pump just a thought gravity feed! Maybe if pump fails!
I'm not sure if how that would works. I think the computer needs to feed the burner a certain amount of fuel per pulse in order to work efficiently.
Hey man that was a great video
Thank you
I’m getting ready to do this myself and now I feel better about doing it
Glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching.
Joel, curious about the exhaust touching or near the wood floor, is or was that a problem and if so what was the solution?
Checkout my update video after 10 months, I fix the issues I ended up having!
I'm thinking of installing a diesel heater in my insulated 8.5x20 cargo conversion trailer. I'm able to run a straight 10-12 foot warm air shaft on the floor along the passenger side. I will have 3 or 4 adjustable-louvered vents along the air shaft. Your thought on this Joel would be appreciated! Do you think the heater’s fan will move enough warm air to reasonably heat the living space? Maybe I'll need a 8kW model or something? TIA.
I'd experiment with a larger heater for sure! I've seen people do what you are thinking of. I'd recommend joining Chinese diesel heater group on Facebook.
@@JoelTremblayCA Thanx!
Very exciting!
Thank you!
How is the heat output of the 5KW heater in such a small space? Just right, too much? I want the same one for a 6x10 Cargo trailer... Thanks!
Hi Brian, a 5KW heater in a 6x10 should work plenty fine. Make sure you insulate well!
2kw is plenty if it's insulated. Think about a elec space heater, it would be plenty if insulated and it's 1500 watts. Everyone oversized these units and has to have them on low which soots them up and actually increases the case temp due to low air flow, better to have a smaller one running in mid range.
What are your thoughts on using a diesel heater vs propane? Especially for winter camping since propane is good to -40 deg and usually doesn't need any electricity to run. Versus diesel starting to gel around 10 deg and relying on electricity to run. The main difference I see would be if you are worried about not having enough ventilation for propane byproducts?
In Canada, we don't normally have problems with diesel gelling, I'm assuming they treat it with additives. You can also run diesel heaters on kerosene. Yes propane doesn't need power but you still want to have it vented well, otherwise you'll end up with lots of moisture. The good propane heaters get quote expensive so in the end I'm still vouching for a diesel heater with battery. Of course everything has its purpose and what works for someone might not work for someone else. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned, I have another video on diesel heaters coming out this week!
@@JoelTremblayCA Awesome :)
Dude!!!! You need more clearance around the exhaust so it doesn't burn the wood. Thats why those screws are there. So people would make the holes bigger.
Yes you are correct. My latest video on the heater I fixed this issue!
Nice video i was looking to purchase a 8kw heater for my 6x12 vnose trailer and how to install it for my sxs to melt the ice out of it during the winter here in canada its -40c windshield factor. Its not insulated but i think with the 8kw it will do the job. Just asking myself if it will heat enough to dry the floor
I would be careful about the 8Kw, I've heard that it's actually a myth and their just a 5Kw.
@@JoelTremblayCA oh ok thanks ill check on that. Ive notice there wasn’t a big difference of price between both of them.
@@F250-expedition yeah I'm not an expert on these things but I remember another guy on UA-cam doing a test between the 5 & 8 and there was no difference. I'd suggest asking in the Chinese diesel heater group on Facebook!
Could u please tell me what "type" of screws (and where u bought them) with the large washers securing your foamular insulation to the bottom of the trailer are called? I was looking for them at Lowes/Home Depot but couldnt find them (whatever they're called). So I just used Liquid Nails. Although, I'd be more confident if I had those Large Washer/Screws holding the foamular underneath as well. Thank you in advance! AE
They're just regular wood screws and large washers from home depot! Thanks for watching.
They are called fender washers. The screws if going into wood, should be zinc plated deck screws at least 1/2" longer than the insulation.
Also if you can pull up the deck from the frame before you install insulation, roll spar varnish on both sides of your decking material whether it is osb or plywood at least two coats. It will greatly improve the durability and water resistance of your deck. If your unable to pull the decking, at least coat the underside with rubberized undercoating to give it some moisture resistance. Covering the bottom of the frame with roofers tin will add additional protection from moisture and road debris. Plus helps with mpg by reducing turbulent air under trailer.
Professionally restored vintage Airstream trailers for years.
Nice install - but the exhaust gets incredibly hot and it looks like its touching the wood trailer deck?
Yeah, I've since revised this and made the hole bigger! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Thanks!
Was the tounge box in the way of the jack?
It happened that it's slightly in the way for the jack handle, but I can stil manage to use it no problem! Thanks for watching.
In my opinion I believe that you should have made the opening hole larger as the exhaust really does get very hot 🔥...
That was something I considered but at the same time the fuel line is very close to it as well. I might add a aluminum sleeve around the exhaust to keep it separated. Thanks for your feedback!
Cut the exhaust pipe in half and put that muffler with the drain facing down in the middle and Wrap up the exhaust with header exhaust wrap and lookup what is called a turret mount
so after some use, how's the plywood doing? did you get any charring? the exhaust on my diesel gets to 300 degrees and I'm worried about running it straight through the plywood like that.
I'll kindly direct you to this follow up video lol ua-cam.com/video/2EnqGCNNflw/v-deo.html
Short answer is, yes there was charring. Need to have some kind of metal gusset / larger hole. I used a soup can!
Exhaust line is touching wood-that’s why you use the plate with a big cutout.
Yes, I wish I knew of those before this install. I did end up making my own sleeve out of aluminum sheet. Thanks for watching!
Looks good but i know for a fact i would be catching my shin on that angle iron u have protecting your exhaust hose every time i walked past
Been a year and I haven't hit it yet! It's doing a great job at keeping the slush and ice off of the exhaust. Thanks for watching :)
15:00 hit the hole Joe 🤣
Did you have problems installing the fuel pump horizontal and not on an incline to reduce air bubbles?
You don't want to install the pump in a horizontal position. In this video I show how I mounted it on an incline.
i know im a little late.. the light is on indicating a blown fuse since there is no fuse in the socket.. it will extinguish as soon as you insert a fuse.. this is intentional by design.. your unit is not drawing any power.. its simply the fuse panel doing its intended job
Yes it is designed to show the light when there is a draw and a fuse is blown. However, there shouldn't be a light on if the unit is off and there is no fuse. I confirmed this with other components on the system. For example the ceiling fan, I took the fuse out and the light did not come on, I turned the fan on and then the little light came on.
On these little heater units the display is always on if you have it hooked up to power, thus always drawing a current. I installed an inline switch to be able to turn the display off when not in use.
@@JoelTremblayCA yes. You are correct. If there is no completed circuit anywhere, then the light will not work . It must see the device on the load in order to activate. Even when the heaters are off, the electronics are still in a standby state , thus allowing current to complete the circuit, lighting the fuse blown led.
No fuse and a blown fuse is the same open circuit condition .
I always suggest using a switch with a relay to the fuse for the device, especially with devices that create a large load such as these heaters . I use one in my build and the switch simply provides the low current to activate the relay, saving the switch from destruction by high current loads especially while the glow plug is active.
@@twystidceed7823 thanks! Your explanation is a lot better than mine!
Can you tell me the dimensions of that tank? I'm just wondering if I can pre-plan and buy a big enough tongue box that it would fit inside it.
Thanks for watching! This one is 10l, roughly 16"x16"x3".
Awesome build,,,…question for you . I see your fuel pump is amounted above the level of the heater and the fuel pump has to pump fuel down and back up to the heater. Is this causing you any issues or is it working well?
Thanks for watching :) I haven't had any issues with the pump the way I have it installed.
I enjoy watching videos of your build. I have concerns about an element of this install. The position and securing of the fuel tank. My fear is that over time, the flexing and twisting of the trailer as it rolls, will cause rubbing between the exterior bulkhead of the trailer and the fuel tank wall closes to that bulkhead. Add the normal vibrations of road travel and I fear it will wear thin, where this two contact. It will result in a thinning of the plastic tank ( in spots) and be the impetus of a small hole or crack and a loss of fuel. No judgements. Just passing along an observation. Be well.
instablaster...
How did you mount the fuel tank without it leaking?
These ones have 3 holes (that are used for mounting) you can see how it's mounted when I'm fishing the spigot. Thanks for watching!
How much does the fuel tank hold and how many hours will it run on a full tank ? Great job by the way !
Thanks! The tank holds 10L of fuel. With some rough math I assume the heater could run for +/-40 hours straight on a single tank.
@@JoelTremblayCA Thanks for ur help 🇺🇸
How’s that been on the battery? Does it drain your battery fast??
Not at all! I've recently did an over night trip where I had the heater on for 8 hours and my battery was still at 86%!
My cargo trailer conversion is a 7.5' x 7' x 16'. I have to wait until the outside ambient temp is 50 degrees or less otherwise, even set to low(1.6hz) I run myself out of my trailer. You may have already discovered this.
Also, for longevity, make sure you run your heater on HIGH FOR 15 MINUTES each time before you shut it off. This will burn some of the carbon out.
Thanks for the tip! Will do that next time. Ran the unit over dozen times now without issue out of the box.
It does get warm even on lowest setting. Figuring out the exact opening I need in the roof vent to compensate for this. Afterburner upgrade looks appealing, more programmable features and temp control.
Do these Chinese heaters have a thermostat?
Yes they do!
No problems with the floor being burnt?
Nope!
Would ya still use the diesel heater?
Yeah. I really do like it for what it offers. Thanks for watching
You’ll burn in there with that much heat capacity for that tiny space. It’s better have more than less so you can even be in freezing temps now. 👍
It's been good! Keep the vent cracked open and I'm comfortable.
@@JoelTremblayCA can you set it up to be on a thermostat???
@@Floridawoodsbanshee It has a built in thermostat with the remote. It's not the best as it will stay on continuously so you have to learn how to divert the extra heat. There are mods you can buy to set it up better but they are expensive.
@@JoelTremblayCA oh okay. Thanks for explanation 👍 I was reading other comments. One guy said if you have bigger living space, the smaller unit works better. I'm looking at 8 × 16 and 7 foot tall.
So I'm going to try 5k unit. Your build is awesome. I really like the ceiling. So nice with the puck lights. I could only imagine what you could create with more square footage.
@@Floridawoodsbanshee thanks for watching! Yes a 5K unit is the biggest size you can go with. It might take a while to heat up that entire space but not impossible! Good luck with your build.
I have the same kit. Since when have you ever seen a TWO-PIECE fuel filter an any application?...NEVER. My fuel filter lasted two weeks. The one you have will fail and very soon. Go to your auto parts store and get a good fuel filter.
I have a replacement on standby!
Cool! Thanks. BTW, Have u ever thought if you could somehow heat water from the exhaust of your diesel heater? Kill 2 birds w/one stone so to speak! Just a thought
Definitely an interesting idea but I don't think it would do this efficiently.
thats not an air filter. have very slight bends in hoses, dont stress the fan...
this is a kit from amazon. The "air intake filter" is what is provided to connect to the fresh air intake hose. Thanks for watching.
@@JoelTremblayCA they may call it one, but if you look at it there no element in it to filter anything.
@@saltpepper1894 agreed!
YOU might want to swap out the air filter for something better. I hear they are absolute crap inside.
They are pretty pathetic. I'd recommend upgrading all the external components on these things for best reliability. Ie tank, fuel line, exhaust, and intake tube / air filter. Thanks for watching!
@@JoelTremblayCA Id like to find a video for that. Future project?
@@ericswild I should do an update video on just the diesel heater system. If you look up my newer trailer build video you will see all the upgrades that I did.
Nothing like catching your floor on fire.
I did edit this detail in a future video. Made the exhaust hole larger and added my own metal flange. I made sure to post this in the video description. Floor never caught on fire though... Thanks for watching!