I had a Neptune 3 Max and got a blob of filament that oozed all around the nozzle on mine. It even pushed the leveling sensor crooked so the next time I went to print, the nozzle crashed into the bed. Didn’t damage anything, fortunately I was watching when it happened. When removing the blob, I broke the thermistor wire so I ended up having to get a new hotend. One thing I don’t like about Elegoos FDM printers is they always seem like they were rushed into production and the users end up being like beta testers, so it’s a good thing you waited. Their resin printers, however are top notch. If they could get a large printer like the Max with Bambu like bed leveling, they would have a winner IMHO
you have to do both. then you look at the chart it displays after and if the +/- is still far off from one side to the other you do it again to try and get the values closer together
I had a Neptune 3 Max and got a blob of filament that oozed all around the nozzle on mine. It even pushed the leveling sensor crooked so the next time I went to print, the nozzle crashed into the bed. Didn’t damage anything, fortunately I was watching when it happened. When removing the blob, I broke the thermistor wire so I ended up having to get a new hotend.
One thing I don’t like about Elegoos FDM printers is they always seem like they were rushed into production and the users end up being like beta testers, so it’s a good thing you waited. Their resin printers, however are top notch. If they could get a large printer like the Max with Bambu like bed leveling, they would have a winner IMHO
yep, I'm with you on that one
Did you do the manual leveling first then auto leveling or just auto leveling only?
you have to do both. then you look at the chart it displays after and if the +/- is still far off from one side to the other you do it again to try and get the values closer together
Is that what you did?
@@devonf051994 yes