Out of all these famouse UA-cam's getting all kindsa free stuff thrown at them to do sh*t reviews, this kid with barely any subs puts out THE most informative video out of almost all other UA-cam's. Props to you kid. Elegoo should hook you up not everyone else who does nothing. Mad props, pun intended...
I have been watching reviews all day on this product. I've seen dozens of reviews from huge UA-camrs, and not a single one gave me as much good information as you have. Thanks man. Keep up the good work.
as others have said, this is well made and very informative. i commend your ability to communicate this info at your age. this is a thorough review and steps over a lot of bigger channels in terms of raw detail. i am no editor but i have one recommendation (although i bet you probably know this already): edit in B-roll just for close views or details of specific objects or features. for example at 8:08 it would have been AWESOME to see some close up views of the model that had some solid focus to see the layer lines closer or even the artifact you mentioned, even though we could still see it pretty well in the end video. or you could add a quick screen cap of your slicer settings. i don’t mean to patronize, i just think a couple small touches can go a long way. plus you wouldn’t have to worry about being on camera the whole time! but regardless this is a great review and this printer does look fairly impressive for its price point. i am glad klipper is getting into more people’s hands. keep making videos my friend!
I've been very interested in the neptune 4 pro but I've been hesitant because of bad reviews. It appears to me that the issues mentioned in the reviews were due to user error. It's hard to describe but something about your review makes me a lot more confident in choosing this printer. This was just the thorough AND credible review I was hoping to find. This video is a gem, thank you so much for making it. I'm subscribing right now so I can learn more from you.
Take note, "content creators": THIS is how a review is supposed to be done. Great review buddy! Makes me feel way more confident that I got the right printer last month than any other review I've seen. I've only printed 6 or 7 things with it so far, and slowly to be safe, but hearing you say you were doing 250mm a minute after some tweaks, I'm super excited to go home and make something else. I rarely subscribe to channels like yours, but you just earned one!
My wife just purchased this for me as a birthday present. She's not one to read details thoroughly so this review was not only awesome to hear but the way all reviews of products should be, seriously. You are much appreciated young sir!
For WiFi, I connected the RJ45 port of my Neptune 4 Pro to a Vonets VAP11G-300 and had immediate Klipper control via a Fluidd screen open in a browser tab. Very nice! This is my first Klipper printer and I love it. Way better than fiddling with tiny micro SD cards. I've printed a few hundred hours of flawless ABS prints by draping a 30 gallon clear trash bag over the Neptune 4 Pro, with the bottom front 6" of the bag reinforced with duct tape and a piece of duct tape with a tiny hole for the filament to enter on top. The 110 C print bed passively heats the interior of my low cost enclosure to 55 C. I print with the nozzle at 255 C for the first layer and 230 C for subsequent layers. The LED on the print head dimmed over the first hundred hours until it's no longer usable. Apparently the heat killed the LED. I probably have 400+ hours on my Neptune 4 Pro and it's been flawless. I'm very happy with the purchase and I'm impressed with the print quality and reliability. I designed a waste bin that clips to the left side of the Neptune 4 or 4 Pro and that's very handy, particularly with my small scale manufacturing where I can toss a prime strip and brim into the waste bin to the left of the print bed and click the Print Another button on the touch screen. I uploaded the files for the Neptune 4 waste bin to Thingiverse and Printables.
@@deadpixeloc5047 - You must be new here. 🙂 Materials such as ABS shrink more when they cool. Thermal contraction from a 230 C melted plastic from the nozzle to 22 C ambient is enough that the part is shrinking as its printed and the internal stress causes the part to lift off the bed as it warps and cups, or causes layers to separate forming horizontal cracks. Keeping the ambient at an elevated temperature helps prevent warping and cracking. After the part has printed it can be cooled uniformly so the part shrinks equally in all directions to reduce internal stress. A 55 C enclosed printing space is often enough to allow successful ABS 3D prints. I think the commercial 3D printers use a 100 C or 120 C heated enclosure for ABS.
i've spent the past month watching dozens of videos on a plethora of printers and was torn between this and a few others. After watching this amazingly concise video i was sold. Thank you Ben for a great review. Hope to see more content from you!
Subscribed to your channel because of this video. I am new to 3d printing and this video spoke to ALL the concerns I had while trying to decide which printer is right for me. Keep doing awesome work and I'll be sure to go back and like your other posts. Thank you!
Thanks so much man for being so down to earth and honest about this machine. I’ve been looking for a budget printer for a while now and this one specifically has been tossed around by so many bigger yt channels for no reason and you brought some real input for this printer into a concise video. Thank you. You just earned a sub!
Thanks for the video! Your unboxing video made me pull the trigger and get it, and after a couple hundred hours myself (and as a complete 3d printing novice), I've been impressed by the print quality and relative ease of use. It definitely is loud (which you mentioned) and I haven't been able to get the ethernet cable to work/be detected by the Elegoo Cura version - but those are my only complaints from a beginner.
I'm glad you like your printer! A potential reason your ethernet might not be working is because you connect to your printer via klipper in your browser, instead of through cura (which in my experience is typically connected through a USB cable). If you go to the settings in your printer you can find the printer IP, just type that into a browser and it will show the Fluidd klipper interface.
Oh wow, that worked! The fluidd interface is a little overwhelming just looking at it right now as a noob, but I'm excited to take a look at it more during a print. Thanks!
@@crazycanuck19 Your welcome! I'm glad it worked. I highly recommend taking some time to really explore it. You can really customize everything, and taking the time to go through and look at the config file and all of the other features is definitely worth it.
Good job Ben! More video''s please. You're young so you probably don't recognize how unique you are.....yet. Fly with your dreams and set your goals high. Most people you run into won't understand you, that's okay. You're going to do great things!
Thanks for the awesome review Ben! This'll be my first Klipper printer, happy to know this is basically taking the role of both my printer and octoprint.
This was my first printer at the beginning and it was headache , there was no documentation about changing nozzles or repairs. After learning the basics : how to change a nozzle , maintaining my machine, how to diagnose problems, I am getting satisfying prints and have yet to fine tune my klipper which i will most likely do in the near future. So far it's been pretty consistent , 40 hours of continuous print time at high speeds before an issue arose. NOTE: Instead of using the bad Elegoo Cura i heavily recommend OrcaSlicer with the neptune 4 pro printer profile. Simply switching slicers made my prints better Note: keep in mind that if you are using brass nozzles it will eat through them like candy.
Absolutely amazing video. All of these others could learn a lot from you !! Thank you for a thorough explanation and understanding of the features !! Great job !!
Shout out to the Apple ][ drives! Also thanks for the initial review you did, and this follow up. It is what convinced me to jump on the Neptune 4 Max, and it still feels like a solid choice. I still need to keep dialing things in with this much volume and speed. But this is already a significant upgrade from my PrintrBot Play that is about 9 years older or so.
Great video mate. I was thinking 3 Pro because I thought the 4 Pro was just all about the speed. New to 3D printing and speed isn’t a necessity so it’s good to know the actual print quality is increased with the 4 Pro if you reign it in a bit. New subscriber ✌🏻
great review. just one thing to consider, you probably don't want a 3d printer running next to your bed - you'd not only be poisoning your air you breathe but also introducing harmful particles that can land and settle into your room environment. can research "3D Printing-Induced Fine Particle and Volatile Organic Compound Emission: An Emerging Health Risk" and other similar articles.
Thank you so much for this informative review. Im hoping to get my hands on a Neptune 4 Pro, and as a newcomer to 3d printing, I was wondering on the web, looking for reviews on 3d printers, but you helped making my mind.
Nice overview, I just got one but I still like to see more experienced people talking about it so I can understand it better and how you all view it. Finally got Cura 5.6 working, moonraker plugin to send prints to it, and thumbnail plugin. I'm looking forward to dialing stuff in and getting to my custom functional prints that I got this for.
I’ve found that the extra part cooling fans aren’t really necessary most of the time. I’ve had mine off for about a month now and haven’t noticed a significant drop in quality even when printing small parts fast.
Hello there! Great video, I already bought one for myself, but you just convinced me again, that it was a good choice. I would love see a complete guide about that how you calibrated it. There are plenty of videos and sites about how to do this or that, but things are just different in case of every printer. A dedicated Neptune 4 Pro calibration guide would be awesome! There are things that I just can't get right with mine (arrived last friday): Retraction (there is always some stringing, but better than it was). Top layer is overextruded (the overall print quality is good, but it can be better). There is some ghosting (I'm already trying to calibrate input shaping). I'm using Prusaslicer. My previous printer was an Ender 3 with only a BL-touch for upgrade. It was very slow, etc, but the print quality was quite good. I want to reach that quality with the Neptune 4 Pro, too.
Thank you for the advice! The first thing I would try is using Elegoo Cura, that might fix some print artifacts. If it does work, you could port over the retraction settings and anything else to Prusaslicer (I personally prefer Prusaslicer as well). For actual editing of the config file, I would check out this video from WildRoseBuilds, it helped me quite a bit: ua-cam.com/video/mCcP8dffwLk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=WildRoseBuilds Tuning the input shaper will probably have a very positive impact on print quality.
I heard that the x and y axis are misaligned on all Neptune 4 series by 2%, which is a lot... no fixable solution for it. In other words, if a circle or cylinder is printed...it will not be round...instead it will be slightly oval. This becomes a problem when making items that have round gears printed within an item. How true is this and is there a fix for this on the Neptune 4 series?
How do you deal with clogs? I accidentally left mine printing and it messed up. The hot filament got shoved up past the nosle and now when we try to change the filament there is a piece that is in the way. It’s above where it heats up but below the gears to push the filament down and the cleaning things don’t get it to come loose. What would you recommend? Is there a way to take it apart and get to it?
This is a brilliant video. I want to get a 'starter' printer and think this would be a good one to go for. I have seen a couple of people mention an issue with their 4 Pros where parts that need to fit together wouldn't and taking a caliper to measure a cylinder for example, shows the cylinder to not be perfectly round. Have you had any of these issues, or are aware of the issue? I don't want to buy something that is going to cause me a headache when another one would work just fine without the hassle.
Рік тому
Hello, I have this printer, I have a problem with the printer. No matter how many times I calibrate the table, it is not calibrated properly, and therefore the nozzle rubs against the pressure and digs and removes the pressure. What do I need to do. Can you please help.
Hey man, SOLID video and nice lab. I'm looking at getting my Neptune 4 printing Nylon or CF like what you have there. Can you please share any tips you have with this printer? nozzle size (hardened steel?), speed, nozzle heat, bed heat, fan speed?, etc. Anything that you might have discovered to help us newbies out. Many thanks and thanks for your other video of replacing nozzle. Link to nozzles?
I have one question. If I run speed tests, where the printer goes in a long line for a while at anything over 300mm/s the hotend can't keep up. Even with a CHT nozzle like you have and higher temperatures. 500 is defenetly not possible for me. Have you done any speed tests that can confirm my Neptune is working properly? 😅
With all of these new klipper bedslingers I have found that they drastically over estimate the print speed. I am currently testing the CHT nozzle and I believe it makes a difference, I just need to compile the results.
I did a few prints on mine .. than the prints wouldn’t stick I tighten the wheel 🛞 s with allen wrench and level the bed manually and then automatically .. it would get through a print the make spaghetti and fall off the bed . ????? Help
Hi! Great video, thanks for that. I've seen those CHT style steel nozzles, but what's irritating me is the fact that the splitter insert is made of brass. I don't know much about this, but it doesn't seem to make sense. Wouldn't it degrade like any other nozzle on that part?
Do you have any tips when it comes to the artificing? I seem to have some issues with Vibration on my Neptune 4, causing the artifacts and I have no idea on how to address the issue.
Hi, if I connect the 3D printer to the PC via RJ45, if I launch a print the head is not at the flat level, but very high, without PC only with printer and touch everything is working. Can you tell me how to have both methods working in order to print well. Thank you
When controlling the printer via the Fluidd klipper interface, the printer behave just like it would without it. If the print head was up high off of the print bed, then before printing it would home it first. When controlling the printer remotely through Klipper, the operation is virtually identical, you just have a different UI, but all the features and buttons found in the physical UI are found in the Klipper interface. Using the printer without a PC is also incredibly straightforward and the touchscreen, just like the N3P works great.
I connect the PC to the printer, choose the file to print, start printing, but the nozzle head moves raised from the table, and starts printing at a height of several cm. do I have to redo the floor leveling settings for the klipper too? I don't understand this. Or I'm doing something else wrong@@BenMyhillJones
@@DjferreGarage I misunderstood your first comment. What I would do is go through the bed level calibration again, and redo the Z offset, making sure that it saves the value into the machine.
@@DjferreGarage Yes, you could try doing the automatic leveling probe, however I would recommend trying to set the z offset manually first, if tring a new z offset doesn't work then I would try going through the leveling process.
Do not get this printer do not get this printer. I've had their Neptune three and I don't know what happened. I'm pretty sure they sold the company off. This is a completely different machine is absolutely horrible like absolutely horrible. I can't even get the thing to work and I used to print on Neptune three for over half a year I made hundreds of dollars.
Do not get this printer do not get this printer. I've had their Neptune three and I don't know what happened. I'm pretty sure they sold the company off. This is a completely different machine is absolutely horrible like absolutely horrible. I can't even get the thing to work and I used to print on Neptune three for over half a year I made hundreds of dollars.
@@kleber1983 Well first I had to take the extruder completely off, then obviously remove cover, I then wanted to remove the cover for the hot end but found that I couldn’t until I had removed the fans on both sides, then I could get a wrench on the heater block to stop it turning. Change nozzle and put it all back together.
Thanks! I bought a few cheap UV5Rs to get my technicians license (which I am currently working towards) and I decided to buy the FT101 as a restoration project.
Hi! I bought the same printer...arrived three days ago. Printed a few cookie cutters nice, but today its like jumping-skipping and its going out the edge of the cutter, i dont know what happened because im.the only one handling the printer...can you help me?
I recently got this printer and honestly it's being causing me a lot of issues, currently it starts at random points crushing the infill in random areas and I cannot stop it from doing it but beyond that I've struggled with adhesion issues and the knobs under the bed coming off in the middle of prints. Honestly it's been a bit of a nightmare.
I am working on a video right now on how to replace the stock nozzle with a hardened steel nozzle for abrasive filaments, also if the CHT hardened steel nozzles increase flow rate.
Sure! I purchased them off of Aliexpress, and at the time of ordering very few sellers were available, now there are a lot more options. This is not the seller I purchased from, but they have the most sold and have very good ratings: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005874987595.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.9ccd7822shvmXt&algo_pvid=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7&algo_exp_id=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%217.20%210.69%21%21%2137.20%21%21%402101c5c216986783201294431e05d6%2112000034662633983%21sea%21CA%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=gM5wGpyrma0T These are the ones that I bought and are of good quality. I would recommend getting both a regular one and a CHT one, from the limited testing that I have done so far, the CHT one makes a decent difference in flow rate and print speed. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005919821277.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.9ccd7822shvmXt&algo_pvid=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7&algo_exp_id=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%214.11%212.66%21%21%212.90%21%21%402101c5c216986783201294431e05d6%2112000034887301372%21sea%21CA%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=ZzXmbGByxUW1
Good video but you didn't mention printing with other filaments than PLA. I bought a 4 pro a few days ago, the test Buddah using the PLA supplied was the best print I have seen for a long time, and fast but I need to print with HIPS for various reasons and it won't stick to the bed. I have been printing for 8 years or more and can usually get round problems but this one has me stumped, I checked and rechecked the levelling and Z offset and tried a few settings above and below the norm, I tried all sorts of temperatures, my old printer was fine with 105C bed and 235C nozzle but it still won't stick to the bed. I mean here that the very first lines printed last a few seconds then detach and wrap round the nozzle, every time I try I have to abort within 20 seconds. Elegoo have failed to respond to my request for help and no-one so far seems to have tried HIPS on a 4 Pro, if they have they are not talking about it. The only anomaly I have found is that the print surface does not reach the temperature that the machine thinks it does, when the display says 110C, the print surface is at 98C, HIPS needs 105+ to stick. The magnetic rubber layer under the print surface does reach 108C so the issue might be poor heat conduction between the two, I cant think of a fix for this so I will buy a print mat that I know works, remove the magnetic rubber layer and fit the new surface directly to the aluminium base. I take it that you have not had adhesion problems, is it just me trying to use HIPS?
I have personally never tried printing HIPS, the materials I have run through it is PETG, CF-PETG, PLA and TPU. It is wierd that it can't get up to 105c, especially since the max is 110c.
The heater gets to 110C, the aluminium bed above that gets to 108 or 109C but it then loses 10 degrees before it gets to the print surface, bit of a design fault really. I ordered a replacement stick on printing mat today, I know it works with HIPS as I had one on the old machine and without the magnet and steel top it should cut out the heat loss and get up to 108C or thereabouts. Thanks anyway.
Hi Ben After a week or so of trying to print with this machine I have not had a single successful print, I switched to PET-g as this is similar to HIPS but uses a lower bed temperature that tyhe Neptune can deliver, they all failed after around 10 to 20 seconds when they detached from the bed. I can't replace the print surface as the levelling needs the steel PEI sheet, it cannot sense the aluminium underneath so may be magnetic rather than inductive, so I bought a stick on print mat that I knew worked and tried that stuck onto the PEI top surface. Also a complete failure as nothing stuck to that either. I had emailed back and forth with Elegoo about this, they gave me generic answers that did not help at all and after about the fourth, stopped responding completely. In the last batch of testing I had one print that actually stuck to the print surface and continued for about 4 minutes, then the model detached from the bed leaving the brim and supports firmly stuck, a scraper was needed to remove them. There is obviously something fundamentally wrong with this machine, as Elegoo are now not conversing with me, I clicked for a return and refund via Ebay, I will spend the money on something that works like an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro, much the same thing mostly. I think my experience is not normal as these usually work straight out the box but I have lost faith in them and am disgusted at the total lack of support from Elegoo, so they will soon have a non working part used machine on their hands to dispose of, hope they don't put it on Ebay for someone else to struggle with. I am an experienced printer but this one beat me completely, this was my 5th FDM machine, I have also owned 5 resin printers and currently have a Mars and Saturn, both Elegoo and these are superb in all respects, pity the Neptune didn't match this as its a nice machine. Mark - UK
Thanks! When it comes to top surface quality, it is nothing exceptional; if you turn down the print speed for the final few layers I have noticed a positive difference in print quality.
Thanks! My primary interest is electrical engineering and I do use all the equipment, although the ham radio is a rebuild project that I haven't started yet and need to learn.
I have had mine for 3 momths now and have had a few weird issues... 3 klipper errors. Also kinda aggeravting had to update 2 weeks after getting printer and they dont make it easy either.... Cant seem to get supports from sticking to print
Hey, I might be a bit late here, but Ive just got a quick question regarding the noise - Im planning to pick one up soon, but Id like to be able to print overnight without keeping people awake. Itll be in a spare room with nobody there, but Im wondering, is it loud enough to be reasonably audible through walls?
For the most part it is fine, as long as you turn down the speed and fans. I have mine in my closet, and when I turn off the rear fans and turn down the Printhead fans it is very tolerable during the day time. I don't print with it at night though because it is reasonably loud when it is less than 10 feet from my bed.
I cant get my Pro 4 to print faster then 183 mm, when I type in 250 mm in cura setting it dont get any faster and the box turns red. can you help ? Is there a place I can find the setting I need ?
Perhaps you could try using Orca slicer instead? Note that I don't have this printer but this is what I've heard. People were saying that nep 4 pro wasn't supported well on cura. Side note: Your comment is 7mo old, who knows if you still have this issue.😂Maybe someone down the line with the same issue will see this.
I was just wondering if you had any issues with the y axis being an issue? I saw somewhere that it has been an issue with some being out of alignment. Do you know if they have addressed this after the initial launch?
I personally have not seen any, that does not mean they do not exist though. It also would probably be relatively simple if you write a small gcode script to put at the end of each print.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Out of all these famouse UA-cam's getting all kindsa free stuff thrown at them to do sh*t reviews, this kid with barely any subs puts out THE most informative video out of almost all other UA-cam's. Props to you kid. Elegoo should hook you up not everyone else who does nothing. Mad props, pun intended...
Yep I thought exactly the same. Fair play and new subscriber here.
BIG TRU
I have been watching reviews all day on this product. I've seen dozens of reviews from huge UA-camrs, and not a single one gave me as much good information as you have. Thanks man. Keep up the good work.
Realistic review a good product overall. thankyou😊😊
Awesome review!
No shouting, no stupid music. Just clear informative information. Excellent!
Dude, I'm jealous of your setup! Amatuer radios, Military swords, model planes, microscope, etc.! Office goals!
my short attention span didnt get distracted for a second. I love the way you explain things. dont stop uploading and talking pls and ty
This is the review that's sold me on the Neptune. You gave me all the information I could need, awesome video man!
as others have said, this is well made and very informative. i commend your ability to communicate this info at your age. this is a thorough review and steps over a lot of bigger channels in terms of raw detail. i am no editor but i have one recommendation (although i bet you probably know this already): edit in B-roll just for close views or details of specific objects or features. for example at 8:08 it would have been AWESOME to see some close up views of the model that had some solid focus to see the layer lines closer or even the artifact you mentioned, even though we could still see it pretty well in the end video. or you could add a quick screen cap of your slicer settings. i don’t mean to patronize, i just think a couple small touches can go a long way. plus you wouldn’t have to worry about being on camera the whole time!
but regardless this is a great review and this printer does look fairly impressive for its price point. i am glad klipper is getting into more people’s hands. keep making videos my friend!
I've been very interested in the neptune 4 pro but I've been hesitant because of bad reviews. It appears to me that the issues mentioned in the reviews were due to user error. It's hard to describe but something about your review makes me a lot more confident in choosing this printer. This was just the thorough AND credible review I was hoping to find. This video is a gem, thank you so much for making it. I'm subscribing right now so I can learn more from you.
Thank you for this review Ben. Great work, very informative, and much more useful than a lot of reviews out there..
Take note, "content creators": THIS is how a review is supposed to be done. Great review buddy! Makes me feel way more confident that I got the right printer last month than any other review I've seen. I've only printed 6 or 7 things with it so far, and slowly to be safe, but hearing you say you were doing 250mm a minute after some tweaks, I'm super excited to go home and make something else. I rarely subscribe to channels like yours, but you just earned one!
My wife just purchased this for me as a birthday present. She's not one to read details thoroughly so this review was not only awesome to hear but the way all reviews of products should be, seriously. You are much appreciated young sir!
For WiFi, I connected the RJ45 port of my Neptune 4 Pro to a Vonets VAP11G-300 and had immediate Klipper control via a Fluidd screen open in a browser tab. Very nice! This is my first Klipper printer and I love it. Way better than fiddling with tiny micro SD cards.
I've printed a few hundred hours of flawless ABS prints by draping a 30 gallon clear trash bag over the Neptune 4 Pro, with the bottom front 6" of the bag reinforced with duct tape and a piece of duct tape with a tiny hole for the filament to enter on top. The 110 C print bed passively heats the interior of my low cost enclosure to 55 C. I print with the nozzle at 255 C for the first layer and 230 C for subsequent layers.
The LED on the print head dimmed over the first hundred hours until it's no longer usable. Apparently the heat killed the LED.
I probably have 400+ hours on my Neptune 4 Pro and it's been flawless. I'm very happy with the purchase and I'm impressed with the print quality and reliability.
I designed a waste bin that clips to the left side of the Neptune 4 or 4 Pro and that's very handy, particularly with my small scale manufacturing where I can toss a prime strip and brim into the waste bin to the left of the print bed and click the Print Another button on the touch screen. I uploaded the files for the Neptune 4 waste bin to Thingiverse and Printables.
Hey, I am wondering what the advantages to enclosing the printer are? I thought it would be the opposite due to heat build up?
@@deadpixeloc5047 - You must be new here. 🙂
Materials such as ABS shrink more when they cool. Thermal contraction from a 230 C melted plastic from the nozzle to 22 C ambient is enough that the part is shrinking as its printed and the internal stress causes the part to lift off the bed as it warps and cups, or causes layers to separate forming horizontal cracks. Keeping the ambient at an elevated temperature helps prevent warping and cracking. After the part has printed it can be cooled uniformly so the part shrinks equally in all directions to reduce internal stress. A 55 C enclosed printing space is often enough to allow successful ABS 3D prints. I think the commercial 3D printers use a 100 C or 120 C heated enclosure for ABS.
i've spent the past month watching dozens of videos on a plethora of printers and was torn between this and a few others. After watching this amazingly concise video i was sold. Thank you Ben for a great review. Hope to see more content from you!
Subscribed to your channel because of this video. I am new to 3d printing and this video spoke to ALL the concerns I had while trying to decide which printer is right for me. Keep doing awesome work and I'll be sure to go back and like your other posts. Thank you!
Answered all my questions. Thanks so much!
Your welcome! I am glad it helped!
Thanks so much man for being so down to earth and honest about this machine. I’ve been looking for a budget printer for a while now and this one specifically has been tossed around by so many bigger yt channels for no reason and you brought some real input for this printer into a concise video. Thank you. You just earned a sub!
Thanks for the video! Your unboxing video made me pull the trigger and get it, and after a couple hundred hours myself (and as a complete 3d printing novice), I've been impressed by the print quality and relative ease of use. It definitely is loud (which you mentioned) and I haven't been able to get the ethernet cable to work/be detected by the Elegoo Cura version - but those are my only complaints from a beginner.
I'm glad you like your printer! A potential reason your ethernet might not be working is because you connect to your printer via klipper in your browser, instead of through cura (which in my experience is typically connected through a USB cable). If you go to the settings in your printer you can find the printer IP, just type that into a browser and it will show the Fluidd klipper interface.
Oh wow, that worked! The fluidd interface is a little overwhelming just looking at it right now as a noob, but I'm excited to take a look at it more during a print. Thanks!
@@crazycanuck19 Your welcome! I'm glad it worked. I highly recommend taking some time to really explore it. You can really customize everything, and taking the time to go through and look at the config file and all of the other features is definitely worth it.
Top tier review. Thanks for your help and breakdown!!! More channels should take notes from you.
Good job Ben! More video''s please. You're young so you probably don't recognize how unique you are.....yet. Fly with your dreams and set your goals high. Most people you run into won't understand you, that's okay. You're going to do great things!
Thanks for the awesome review Ben! This'll be my first Klipper printer, happy to know this is basically taking the role of both my printer and octoprint.
Excellent video, well paced and just the right amount of detail. Placed my order for the Neptune Pro after watching. Thanks Ben!
Excellent video. Subbed and can’t wait for the nozzle review video.
Good vid, thanks for taking the time to review it.
This was my first printer at the beginning and it was headache , there was no documentation about changing nozzles or repairs.
After learning the basics : how to change a nozzle , maintaining my machine, how to diagnose problems, I am getting satisfying prints and have yet to fine tune my klipper which i will most likely do in the near future.
So far it's been pretty consistent , 40 hours of continuous print time at high speeds before an issue arose.
NOTE: Instead of using the bad Elegoo Cura i heavily recommend OrcaSlicer with the neptune 4 pro printer profile. Simply switching slicers made my prints better
Note: keep in mind that if you are using brass nozzles it will eat through them like candy.
i am too beginner in 3d printing so what's exactly problems and how did you fix and what's your advice to me when i get this printer and open box
Absolutely amazing video. All of these others could learn a lot from you !! Thank you for a thorough explanation and understanding of the features !! Great job !!
Shout out to the Apple ][ drives! Also thanks for the initial review you did, and this follow up. It is what convinced me to jump on the Neptune 4 Max, and it still feels like a solid choice. I still need to keep dialing things in with this much volume and speed. But this is already a significant upgrade from my PrintrBot Play that is about 9 years older or so.
Appreciated the review, very informative. Also, that’s an impressive wall of equipment behind you.
Make reviews useful and in depth again, like this one! Kudos.
Thank you for your review. Just ordered 4 pro and cant wait to get it!
Excellent review Ben especially as I have just got one! Like the rest of your work station set up. About the same as mine but a lot, lot tidier!!
Such a good review from someone who isn't trying to sell me one.
Thanks!
Great video mate. I was thinking 3 Pro because I thought the 4 Pro was just all about the speed. New to 3D printing and speed isn’t a necessity so it’s good to know the actual print quality is increased with the 4 Pro if you reign it in a bit. New subscriber ✌🏻
I am waiting for my Neptune 4 pro to arrive and stumbled across this video. Very informative, subscribed.
Subbed. I enjoy seeing someone of intellect make content, thank you!
great review. just one thing to consider, you probably don't want a 3d printer running next to your bed - you'd not only be poisoning your air you breathe but also introducing harmful particles that can land and settle into your room environment.
can research "3D Printing-Induced Fine Particle and Volatile Organic Compound Emission: An Emerging Health Risk" and other similar articles.
Very good explanation! Can you also show, how to change the nozzle? Thanks!
Thank you so much for this informative review.
Im hoping to get my hands on a Neptune 4 Pro, and as a newcomer to 3d printing, I was wondering on the web, looking for reviews on 3d printers, but you helped making my mind.
Nice overview, I just got one but I still like to see more experienced people talking about it so I can understand it better and how you all view it. Finally got Cura 5.6 working, moonraker plugin to send prints to it, and thumbnail plugin. I'm looking forward to dialing stuff in and getting to my custom functional prints that I got this for.
Can you please link to the nozzles?
I’ve found that the extra part cooling fans aren’t really necessary most of the time. I’ve had mine off for about a month now and haven’t noticed a significant drop in quality even when printing small parts fast.
Hello there!
Great video, I already bought one for myself, but you just convinced me again, that it was a good choice.
I would love see a complete guide about that how you calibrated it. There are plenty of videos and sites about how to do this or that, but things are just different in case of every printer.
A dedicated Neptune 4 Pro calibration guide would be awesome!
There are things that I just can't get right with mine (arrived last friday):
Retraction (there is always some stringing, but better than it was).
Top layer is overextruded (the overall print quality is good, but it can be better).
There is some ghosting (I'm already trying to calibrate input shaping).
I'm using Prusaslicer. My previous printer was an Ender 3 with only a BL-touch for upgrade. It was very slow, etc, but the print quality was quite good. I want to reach that quality with the Neptune 4 Pro, too.
Thank you for the advice! The first thing I would try is using Elegoo Cura, that might fix some print artifacts. If it does work, you could port over the retraction settings and anything else to Prusaslicer (I personally prefer Prusaslicer as well). For actual editing of the config file, I would check out this video from WildRoseBuilds, it helped me quite a bit: ua-cam.com/video/mCcP8dffwLk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=WildRoseBuilds
Tuning the input shaper will probably have a very positive impact on print quality.
Great walkthrough of the printer.
Thanks!
Outstanding awesome review!! I've been 3d printing since I built my old school reprap Ordbot Hadron
these new printers are huge advance since then.
I heard that the x and y axis are misaligned on all Neptune 4 series by 2%, which is a lot... no fixable solution for it. In other words, if a circle or cylinder is printed...it will not be round...instead it will be slightly oval. This becomes a problem when making items that have round gears printed within an item. How true is this and is there a fix for this on the Neptune 4 series?
I'm curious about the nozzles you changed to, do you have a link so I can look at them. Thank you
Where did you get the steel hotends?
They should set you up with an affiliate link because this is the video that made me pull the trigger.
Appreciate your in depth review.
This is the machine I'm seriously looking into to buy😊😊
Ben, could you link where you found the after market high temp nozzles
Can you use the Neptune 4 with Bambu slicer? I got it to add to the slicer but can't seem to get it to work right? great vid btw
Great review fella Keep makin vids
Thanks! I will definitely try!
great review bro! sick setuo you got there!
How do you deal with clogs? I accidentally left mine printing and it messed up. The hot filament got shoved up past the nosle and now when we try to change the filament there is a piece that is in the way. It’s above where it heats up but below the gears to push the filament down and the cleaning things don’t get it to come loose. What would you recommend? Is there a way to take it apart and get to it?
I bought one a couple of months back. Happy with it so far, but I'll be testing that.
This is a brilliant video. I want to get a 'starter' printer and think this would be a good one to go for. I have seen a couple of people mention an issue with their 4 Pros where parts that need to fit together wouldn't and taking a caliper to measure a cylinder for example, shows the cylinder to not be perfectly round.
Have you had any of these issues, or are aware of the issue? I don't want to buy something that is going to cause me a headache when another one would work just fine without the hassle.
Hello, I have this printer, I have a problem with the printer. No matter how many times I calibrate the table, it is not calibrated properly, and therefore the nozzle rubs against the pressure and digs and removes the pressure. What do I need to do. Can you please help.
Hey man, SOLID video and nice lab. I'm looking at getting my Neptune 4 printing Nylon or CF like what you have there. Can you please share any tips you have with this printer? nozzle size (hardened steel?), speed, nozzle heat, bed heat, fan speed?, etc. Anything that you might have discovered to help us newbies out. Many thanks and thanks for your other video of replacing nozzle. Link to nozzles?
I have one question. If I run speed tests, where the printer goes in a long line for a while at anything over 300mm/s the hotend can't keep up. Even with a CHT nozzle like you have and higher temperatures. 500 is defenetly not possible for me. Have you done any speed tests that can confirm my Neptune is working properly? 😅
With all of these new klipper bedslingers I have found that they drastically over estimate the print speed. I am currently testing the CHT nozzle and I believe it makes a difference, I just need to compile the results.
I did a few prints on mine .. than the prints wouldn’t stick I tighten the wheel 🛞 s with allen wrench and level the bed manually and then automatically .. it would get through a print the make spaghetti and fall off the bed . ????? Help
Hi! Great video, thanks for that. I've seen those CHT style steel nozzles, but what's irritating me is the fact that the splitter insert is made of brass. I don't know much about this, but it doesn't seem to make sense. Wouldn't it degrade like any other nozzle on that part?
Hi there, great video. What experience do you have with this printer for producing quality threads?
Thanks Ben! Nice review.
Do you have any tips when it comes to the artificing? I seem to have some issues with Vibration on my Neptune 4, causing the artifacts and I have no idea on how to address the issue.
to fix the noise dont use the big fans at all, print a Hero ME 7 5015 cooling fan shorwd for the hotend and upgrade it.
Hi, if I connect the 3D printer to the PC via RJ45, if I launch a print the head is not at the flat level, but very high, without PC only with printer and touch everything is working. Can you tell me how to have both methods working in order to print well. Thank you
When controlling the printer via the Fluidd klipper interface, the printer behave just like it would without it. If the print head was up high off of the print bed, then before printing it would home it first. When controlling the printer remotely through Klipper, the operation is virtually identical, you just have a different UI, but all the features and buttons found in the physical UI are found in the Klipper interface. Using the printer without a PC is also incredibly straightforward and the touchscreen, just like the N3P works great.
I connect the PC to the printer, choose the file to print, start printing, but the nozzle head moves raised from the table, and starts printing at a height of several cm. do I have to redo the floor leveling settings for the klipper too? I don't understand this. Or I'm doing something else wrong@@BenMyhillJones
@@DjferreGarage I misunderstood your first comment. What I would do is go through the bed level calibration again, and redo the Z offset, making sure that it saves the value into the machine.
Excuse my English, I'm Italian, do I have to do the leveling again from the 3D printer via touch? Thank you@@BenMyhillJones
@@DjferreGarage Yes, you could try doing the automatic leveling probe, however I would recommend trying to set the z offset manually first, if tring a new z offset doesn't work then I would try going through the leveling process.
I would like to ask you to print a cylinder for the test, there are doubts about the correct geometry of the circle of this printer model
Does it have a 'change-filament' option?
I’m new this is over my head but great review!
Do not get this printer do not get this printer. I've had their Neptune three and I don't know what happened. I'm pretty sure they sold the company off. This is a completely different machine is absolutely horrible like absolutely horrible. I can't even get the thing to work and I used to print on Neptune three for over half a year I made hundreds of dollars.
at what speed do you have to start using speed specialised pla ?
very nice review,
can you link me the nosle you found for printing the carbon?
Thank you for your great review!
Do not get this printer do not get this printer. I've had their Neptune three and I don't know what happened. I'm pretty sure they sold the company off. This is a completely different machine is absolutely horrible like absolutely horrible. I can't even get the thing to work and I used to print on Neptune three for over half a year I made hundreds of dollars.
Thanks for the review. I knew nothing about 3d printing until I found your review. Would you recommend this printer for a first 3d printer?
I got one, so good luck changing the nozzle. Unbelievable.
what you mean, you´re scaring me... lol
@@kleber1983 Well first I had to take the extruder completely off, then obviously remove cover, I then wanted to remove the cover for the hot end but found that I couldn’t until I had removed the fans on both sides, then I could get a wrench on the heater block to stop it turning. Change nozzle and put it all back together.
Thanks for the review!
What’s your opinion on the Neptune 4 plus? About the same as the Pro?
Great video! Clear and very informative. You have a new subscriber
NICE FT101 YAESU AND A UV5R HANGING ON THE SIDE THERE 🙂
Thanks! I bought a few cheap UV5Rs to get my technicians license (which I am currently working towards) and I decided to buy the FT101 as a restoration project.
Hi! I bought the same printer...arrived three days ago. Printed a few cookie cutters nice, but today its like jumping-skipping and its going out the edge of the cutter, i dont know what happened because im.the only one handling the printer...can you help me?
I recently got this printer and honestly it's being causing me a lot of issues, currently it starts at random points crushing the infill in random areas and I cannot stop it from doing it but beyond that I've struggled with adhesion issues and the knobs under the bed coming off in the middle of prints. Honestly it's been a bit of a nightmare.
TY for the great review 0n this
I ran some abrasive glow in the dark PLA. Can you make a video showing how to replace the nozzle?
I am working on a video right now on how to replace the stock nozzle with a hardened steel nozzle for abrasive filaments, also if the CHT hardened steel nozzles increase flow rate.
Can you post a link to the hardened steel nozzles you mentioned?
Just purchased one of these, expecting mid November. (Oh - I live in Victoria too)
Sure! I purchased them off of Aliexpress, and at the time of ordering very few sellers were available, now there are a lot more options.
This is not the seller I purchased from, but they have the most sold and have very good ratings: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005874987595.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.9ccd7822shvmXt&algo_pvid=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7&algo_exp_id=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%217.20%210.69%21%21%2137.20%21%21%402101c5c216986783201294431e05d6%2112000034662633983%21sea%21CA%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=gM5wGpyrma0T
These are the ones that I bought and are of good quality. I would recommend getting both a regular one and a CHT one, from the limited testing that I have done so far, the CHT one makes a decent difference in flow rate and print speed.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005919821277.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.9ccd7822shvmXt&algo_pvid=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7&algo_exp_id=344c6538-c467-478c-8599-7c01ac1246f7-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%214.11%212.66%21%21%212.90%21%21%402101c5c216986783201294431e05d6%2112000034887301372%21sea%21CA%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=ZzXmbGByxUW1
Thanks! Good vid man! Would you mint talking about printing Carbon fiber and, if you have experience, other "exotic" materials
Good video but you didn't mention printing with other filaments than PLA. I bought a 4 pro a few days ago, the test Buddah using the PLA supplied was the best print I have seen for a long time, and fast but I need to print with HIPS for various reasons and it won't stick to the bed. I have been printing for 8 years or more and can usually get round problems but this one has me stumped, I checked and rechecked the levelling and Z offset and tried a few settings above and below the norm, I tried all sorts of temperatures, my old printer was fine with 105C bed and 235C nozzle but it still won't stick to the bed. I mean here that the very first lines printed last a few seconds then detach and wrap round the nozzle, every time I try I have to abort within 20 seconds. Elegoo have failed to respond to my request for help and no-one so far seems to have tried HIPS on a 4 Pro, if they have they are not talking about it.
The only anomaly I have found is that the print surface does not reach the temperature that the machine thinks it does, when the display says 110C, the print surface is at 98C, HIPS needs 105+ to stick. The magnetic rubber layer under the print surface does reach 108C so the issue might be poor heat conduction between the two, I cant think of a fix for this so I will buy a print mat that I know works, remove the magnetic rubber layer and fit the new surface directly to the aluminium base. I take it that you have not had adhesion problems, is it just me trying to use HIPS?
I have personally never tried printing HIPS, the materials I have run through it is PETG, CF-PETG, PLA and TPU. It is wierd that it can't get up to 105c, especially since the max is 110c.
The heater gets to 110C, the aluminium bed above that gets to 108 or 109C but it then loses 10 degrees before it gets to the print surface, bit of a design fault really. I ordered a replacement stick on printing mat today, I know it works with HIPS as I had one on the old machine and without the magnet and steel top it should cut out the heat loss and get up to 108C or thereabouts. Thanks anyway.
Hi Ben
After a week or so of trying to print with this machine I have not had a single successful print, I switched to PET-g as this is similar to HIPS but uses a lower bed temperature that tyhe Neptune can deliver, they all failed after around 10 to 20 seconds when they detached from the bed. I can't replace the print surface as the levelling needs the steel PEI sheet, it cannot sense the aluminium underneath so may be magnetic rather than inductive, so I bought a stick on print mat that I knew worked and tried that stuck onto the PEI top surface. Also a complete failure as nothing stuck to that either. I had emailed back and forth with Elegoo about this, they gave me generic answers that did not help at all and after about the fourth, stopped responding completely. In the last batch of testing I had one print that actually stuck to the print surface and continued for about 4 minutes, then the model detached from the bed leaving the brim and supports firmly stuck, a scraper was needed to remove them.
There is obviously something fundamentally wrong with this machine, as Elegoo are now not conversing with me, I clicked for a return and refund via Ebay, I will spend the money on something that works like an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro, much the same thing mostly. I think my experience is not normal as these usually work straight out the box but I have lost faith in them and am disgusted at the total lack of support from Elegoo, so they will soon have a non working part used machine on their hands to dispose of, hope they don't put it on Ebay for someone else to struggle with. I am an experienced printer but this one beat me completely, this was my 5th FDM machine, I have also owned 5 resin printers and currently have a Mars and Saturn, both Elegoo and these are superb in all respects, pity the Neptune didn't match this as its a nice machine.
Mark - UK
Thanks for the video. Any update on the steel nozzles?
Big thanks for this, nice workspace btw. I wondered how well does it perform for top surface ironing smoothness 🤔
Thanks! When it comes to top surface quality, it is nothing exceptional; if you turn down the print speed for the final few layers I have noticed a positive difference in print quality.
👍@@BenMyhillJones
is this good for prints which are parts for bigger components, or should I buy a 3 pro for that even if its much slower?
Very impressive lab setup, and if you know how to use all that equipment, you rock! 🙂 Big thumbs up for the video, I think you'll do very well.
Thanks! My primary interest is electrical engineering and I do use all the equipment, although the ham radio is a rebuild project that I haven't started yet and need to learn.
I have had mine for 3 momths now and have had a few weird issues... 3 klipper errors. Also kinda aggeravting had to update 2 weeks after getting printer and they dont make it easy either.... Cant seem to get supports from sticking to print
I have the Neptune 3 Plus for a few months and just now it's stuck on calibration and wont work.
This or an ender 3 v3 se?
hey do you encounter problems with it printing circles, gears and other precise parts? I have heard online it struggles with things like that
Hey, I might be a bit late here, but Ive just got a quick question regarding the noise -
Im planning to pick one up soon, but Id like to be able to print overnight without keeping people awake. Itll be in a spare room with nobody there, but Im wondering, is it loud enough to be reasonably audible through walls?
For the most part it is fine, as long as you turn down the speed and fans. I have mine in my closet, and when I turn off the rear fans and turn down the Printhead fans it is very tolerable during the day time. I don't print with it at night though because it is reasonably loud when it is less than 10 feet from my bed.
@BenMyhillJones That's reassuring to hear. I have mine on the other side of the house so it hopefully won't be a big issue. Thanks!
Is the bottom linear rod that's under the print head started to wear out over time?
I have not had any issues with any mechanical parts wearing down.
I cant get my Pro 4 to print faster then 183 mm, when I type in 250 mm in cura setting it dont get any faster and the box turns red. can you help ? Is there a place I can find the setting I need ?
Perhaps you could try using Orca slicer instead? Note that I don't have this printer but this is what I've heard. People were saying that nep 4 pro wasn't supported well on cura.
Side note: Your comment is 7mo old, who knows if you still have this issue.😂Maybe someone down the line with the same issue will see this.
which would u pick if u could only have 1: the Flashforge Adventurer 5M pro OR the Elegoo Neptune 4 pro?
im getting this as my first 3D printer. Would it be okay to have it in a colder environment like a garage?
You should print in a stable environment or get/make an enclosure. If your garage is room temperature, no swings, no drafts, low-humidity, it's fine.
I was just wondering if you had any issues with the y axis being an issue? I saw somewhere that it has been an issue with some being out of alignment. Do you know if they have addressed this after the initial launch?
Hi, do you know any code to start cooler fans to make cool bed plate temperature until 35°C to take easily on the magnetic bed plate?
I personally have not seen any, that does not mean they do not exist though. It also would probably be relatively simple if you write a small gcode script to put at the end of each print.