I make custom extruder breakout boards for these printers and I have a few that I have added an extra connector for more LEDs. I would love to send you one for this project.
This looks great! Good job! I'll probably be trying to adapt it to my Artillery Sidewinder X1 xP Does the X2 have more connections out of the box? Because I had to remove my leds to be able to use a bl-touch and I'm wondering if there's a better way.
Hello Ivan. I am Bülent. i am writing you from Turkey. Thanks for the project. I finished it at the end of 1 week.. :). I have 2 questions for you, I would be very happy if you answer them. My 1st question: With which filaments would it be better to print the parts? (I have a SLA printer and I printed from ABS like resin, but I think it will cause a smell..) My 2nd question: I connected my own ABL probe and it works fine. But when trying to get the offset value from the back of the table, it comes across a gap. How can I fix this? I hope I could explain. Thank you very much in advance..
Hello, Is it possible that this mod is compatible with the Artillery Genius? If so is it also possible to use the mentioned parts such as pancake motor etc? Thank you!
Hello ivan since then they have came out with different extruder i went with the galileo 2 design only prob motor hits i was wonder can you redo your mount and add .250 to the backside or 6.35mm if thats easier or share your actula cad fil not goot when it comes to converting stL files.
Yes, this is the major issue with microUSB phones. Each brand has different way of charging in OTG. I use here a Xiomi A2 Lite and in order to charge in OTG, I had to make a custom cable. With this phone first you have to charge without OTG, then to switch the otg On. So I just installed a switch on the OTG pin. Other phones like some older samsung will require specific resistance between Gnd and OTG pins to enter dock mode.
" 2 x 20mm M3 bolts for attaching the PCB holder and spacer to the adapter mount" those 20mm bolts are just enough to screw pcb holder and spacer together and not to screw it into adapter mount
The Voron project is very much alive and active. Do you mean my own adaptation of Stealthburner for Artillery is dead? It is just a mod that I am still using on my SWX2. It still works for this toolhead, so I dont intend to update it.
ivan why did you block me on your blog ? i was simply asking relevant question that you yourself didnt care to explain your guide lacks guidance and your design is flawed, those holes are way too narrow and with heat inserts its squishes out too much plastic in and out, anyone can clearly see that on photos you provided
Hi, i was cleaning spam bot comments and probably (tons of them) and probably didnt see your comment is human. Will check when I have time. From your comment I understand you havent yet printed the adapter, but you think it is bad design and you need more guidance. Currently I dont have time to give additional support, I am busy at work, please choose another better supported mod.
I checked what happend. I accidently marked one of your last comments for spam and disqus marked all your comments on my blog as spam. Sorry for that. All your comments were validated again. I see I've alredy answered most of you questions. Regarding the extension of probe wires (your last quesrion), you can make it yourself with male/female JST connectors or you can just extend the wires between the probe and the connector.
@@3dpblog i printed adapter and everything, issue is you cant put 2 heat inserts for probe mount because of the opposite side making it unreachable with soldering iron unless you do it at the angle and one heat insert at the front right with not much space around it and trying to add insert at the side for probe wont fit there, even top probe mount for some reason you made it too narrow and it bulges from other side i can see same thing happening on your photo. and in general holes are smaller than on CW2 where they fit fine, but on the mount it pushes melted plastic on the sides i can see you had to trim that on photos too, some of that gets inside threads even when using specific tips for inserts , bit hard to explain without showing it but think you know what im talking about
@@devilik3692 Ok, I see what you mean. I normally design holes for inserts a bit smaller (3,8 or 3.9mm instead of 4mm), because it becomes more solid. Even at 100% infill a 3d print is less dense than an injected plastic parts, so this 0.1 mm extra plastics is absorbed. In order to avoid plastic inside threads I screw an M3 bolt in the insert. In this particular case, I would use 8mm M3 bolt screwed in the insert (you'll have the bolt head+3mm from the screw out of the insert). Hold the bolt head with small pliers and press the insert into the hole, while heating it with your soldering iron. If you do this alone fix the adapter mount with a clamp or double sided tape to the table. Alternatively you can enlarge holes diameters to 4mm in tinkercad, so the inserts holds on in the hole, before heating it up. The good news is you can afford to destroy one of the holes. One screw is enough to hold firmly the probe. I write this on my phone and I hope is comprehensible.
@@3dpblog i just made holes as big as cw2 on 3d builder , gonna reprint it now but that second lower hole for probe is unreachable either way for soldering iron
I make custom extruder breakout boards for these printers and I have a few that I have added an extra connector for more LEDs. I would love to send you one for this project.
I love you Chanel, I think all of us would like to see you doing this project por the sw-x2
Wow, that is amazing. Thank you very much for the information and design.
This looks great! Good job!
I'll probably be trying to adapt it to my Artillery Sidewinder X1 xP
Does the X2 have more connections out of the box? Because I had to remove my leds to be able to use a bl-touch and I'm wondering if there's a better way.
Awesome work! Although I think the stock titan-clone has better cooling than V6, so I am tempted to try this mod with Mosquito for upgrade.
Hello Ivan. I am Bülent. i am writing you from Turkey. Thanks for the project. I finished it at the end of 1 week.. :).
I have 2 questions for you, I would be very happy if you answer them.
My 1st question: With which filaments would it be better to print the parts? (I have a SLA printer and I printed from ABS like resin, but I think it will cause a smell..)
My 2nd question:
I connected my own ABL probe and it works fine. But when trying to get the offset value from the back of the table, it comes across a gap. How can I fix this? I hope I could explain. Thank you very much in advance..
Hello,
Is it possible that this mod is compatible with the Artillery Genius? If so is it also possible to use the mentioned parts such as pancake motor etc?
Thank you!
Genius extruder is the same as the x1
Hello ivan since then they have came out with different extruder i went with the galileo 2 design only prob motor hits i was wonder can you redo your mount and add .250 to the backside or 6.35mm if thats easier or share your actula cad fil not goot when it comes to converting stL files.
compatible with x1 ??
what parts did you need?
hello, is it also good for x1?
While Octo4a is connected and running, are you able to charge the phone at the same time? I am not able to do with my old Micro-USB Phones 😔
Yes, this is the major issue with microUSB phones. Each brand has different way of charging in OTG. I use here a Xiomi A2 Lite and in order to charge in OTG, I had to make a custom cable. With this phone first you have to charge without OTG, then to switch the otg On. So I just installed a switch on the OTG pin.
Other phones like some older samsung will require specific resistance between Gnd and OTG pins to enter dock mode.
Use one of the mats you can charge wireless on your phone can you
The bed stays hot when the printer is paused?
Does anyone know the quality of the STL has to be to get the best print?
Can you give me the drawing of the Voron Switchwire cover
What are your standard print speeds now using this setup? :)
Is there a improvement in print quality or speed
Would it also be good for an artillery genius?
Hey did you ever figure out if it is compatible with the Artillery Genius?
lo puedo instalar en mi x1?
" 2 x 20mm M3 bolts for attaching the PCB holder and spacer to the adapter mount" those 20mm bolts are just enough to screw pcb holder and spacer together and not to screw it into adapter mount
Can i buy it?
No Voron updates in over a year, so project appears dead. Be wary of trying to complete abandoned mods.
The Voron project is very much alive and active. Do you mean my own adaptation of Stealthburner for Artillery is dead? It is just a mod that I am still using on my SWX2. It still works for this toolhead, so I dont intend to update it.
So this guide is actually useless because it's not allowing for the probe the stock artillery has , what do you do then ?
ivan why did you block me on your blog ? i was simply asking relevant question that you yourself didnt care to explain
your guide lacks guidance and your design is flawed, those holes are way too narrow and with heat inserts its squishes out too much plastic in and out, anyone can clearly see that on photos you provided
Hi, i was cleaning spam bot comments and probably (tons of them) and probably didnt see your comment is human. Will check when I have time.
From your comment I understand you havent yet printed the adapter, but you think it is bad design and you need more guidance. Currently I dont have time to give additional support, I am busy at work, please choose another better supported mod.
I checked what happend. I accidently marked one of your last comments for spam and disqus marked all your comments on my blog as spam. Sorry for that. All your comments were validated again. I see I've alredy answered most of you questions. Regarding the extension of probe wires (your last quesrion), you can make it yourself with male/female JST connectors or you can just extend the wires between the probe and the connector.
@@3dpblog i printed adapter and everything, issue is you cant put 2 heat inserts for probe mount because of the opposite side making it unreachable with soldering iron unless you do it at the angle and one heat insert at the front right with not much space around it and trying to add insert at the side for probe wont fit there, even top probe mount for some reason you made it too narrow and it bulges from other side i can see same thing happening on your photo.
and in general holes are smaller than on CW2 where they fit fine, but on the mount it pushes melted plastic on the sides i can see you had to trim that on photos too, some of that gets inside threads even when using specific tips for inserts , bit hard to explain without showing it but think you know what im talking about
@@devilik3692 Ok, I see what you mean. I normally design holes for inserts a bit smaller (3,8 or 3.9mm instead of 4mm), because it becomes more solid. Even at 100% infill a 3d print is less dense than an injected plastic parts, so this 0.1 mm extra plastics is absorbed. In order to avoid plastic inside threads I screw an M3 bolt in the insert. In this particular case, I would use 8mm M3 bolt screwed in the insert (you'll have the bolt head+3mm from the screw out of the insert). Hold the bolt head with small pliers and press the insert into the hole, while heating it with your soldering iron. If you do this alone fix the adapter mount with a clamp or double sided tape to the table.
Alternatively you can enlarge holes diameters to 4mm in tinkercad, so the inserts holds on in the hole, before heating it up.
The good news is you can afford to destroy one of the holes. One screw is enough to hold firmly the probe.
I write this on my phone and I hope is comprehensible.
@@3dpblog i just made holes as big as cw2 on 3d builder , gonna reprint it now
but that second lower hole for probe is unreachable either way for soldering iron