Artillery 3D Hotend Teardown and Reassembly
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2020
- This is a quick video showing how to tear down and reassemble your Artillery 3D hotend and reassemble it. I had to clear out a filament blockage due to the end getting mushroomed over. It is a relatively straightforward procedure just make sure to take your time and document all the parts carefully.
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Hey Calvin, thanks for doing this. Showing us artillery owners how simple maintenance is is a really good thing. I appreciate your contributions to these printers.
Thank you for this video! Couldn't help but laugh out loud when you droped the back plate: "I did a Linus there", at 5:04... knowing Linus, I totally get the reference...!
"Now in this case I'm using my genius" Well well Calvin. No need to brag!
Helpful hint, the corresponding sized torx driver is a hail Mary for worn Hex sockets. Obviously, replace the worn Hex screws the moment they cause you problems.
I find it's a lot easier to work on and re-assemble the hot end if you dismount it from the printer altogether. There are three screws that hold it to the X-shuttle bracket. Mine's a X2, it's a little different. The heatsink and the plate which holds the heat break are one integral piece, no need for heat compound. Took it apart last night since the PTFE tube inside has gone bad, I had a couple of all-metal heat breaks so I'm installing one of those. They're fragile compared to the regular heat break, so I'll have to be extra careful when changing nozzles. With the X2 one has to be careful not to assemble the hot end with the nozzle sticking down further than it did, otherwise you'll end up with the nozzle hitting the build plate (quite a traumatic experience). To avoid this, after re-assembly, before doing ANY printing, increase the Z Offset by 2mm or so (hit the "Z Offset +" button 80 times) before re-setting the Z Offset so the nozzle height is correct.
Totally valid although many people do not like adjusting the V wheels, myself included. I can swap a heater assembly in under 5 mins with it attached to the machine still at this point.
@@MakeItWithCalvin You don't have to mess with the V-wheels - the entire hot end comes off the plate that moves left and right - just 3 screws. Of course, you do have to pull out the ribbon cable.
Oh okay, now I think it makes sense... It is a case of would you rather...
@@MakeItWithCalvin Yeah, the first time I took it apart while it was still on the printer. It took me ages to disassemble it in the first place - even unplugging the heat block was a pain because the connectors were behind the ABL sensor. Putting it back together took a long time, too. With the X2 it's important to measure the lengths of things before disassembly to avoid problems with the nozzle hitting the bed, too.
Great videos for the sidewinder, they've really helped me with x1 v4 but I messed up and removed the entire extruder carriage and dont remember how to assemble the bottom wheels. I cant find any resources that rebuilds it. Do you know the order for the wheels hardware?
Really appreciate the vid, thank you!
thanks a lot!! regards from Chile
when I put the long screw inside the hole of the gear and I twist the screw , the gear wont move, why is that?
Hey
In the last part of the video you mention been careful with the gear, I’m having some issues whit this part, it just won’t spin for fill in, but it will spin for taking out the filament.
I don’t know what else to try I have assembly an disassembly the hole thing
Have you tried spinning it by hand? Sounds to me like something is not allowing the filament to go into the hotend. Just guessing...
I can’t find any videos that show what screws go where and every video I find that does show screws has different ones
settings>playback speed>1.25 :)
hey thanks for the content super helpful. Have you upgraded to an all metal throat? Im looking to do the upgrade as i think ive degraded my inernal ptfe. LOTS of 240* printing. Im having trouble finding one that actually fits my genius any reccomendations?
Really good question, the short answer is no not really. I tried to install an old smooth bore throat in my X2 and it was too long and crashed the head. I have debated trimming a throat down, but not done it yet. If I do make/find something that works I will let you know!
Okay many months later... I should have asked do you have a printer with a probe or not? I have yet to release a video on it but I did successfully modify an existing titanium break to fit my X2 with the probe, and still have the probe function properly. If you are interested let me know and I will send you the link to my Etsy with them for sale.
@@MakeItWithCalvin The correct one to buy is one that is 21.5mm long. Lots of them (and other interesting/weird hot end parts including copper heat blocks) available on AliExpress et al. The ones made for Ender 3s etc. are the right diameter but too long. I just put one in, will be testing it later today.
Great video! just a question: do you know the characteristics or specs of the PTFE tube inside the hotend? Im planning to buy the X2 but i print with technical materials....240+ °C. If it is CAPRICORN or similar, I can use it without worrying......but if it is not....i cant. Is there any info about it?
Don't know the specifics but I don't like to push my PTFE past 240. I personally don't trust the claims of Capricorn and others that say you can push their PTFE to 260C. The only material that can do that is Vespel and it is $_$, and it even breaks down over time. If you really want to print hot, just grab an all-metal throat and pop that on and you are good to print hot all day.
No, it's not Capricorn tubing, but you can easily (more or less - taking the hot end apart is a pain) replace it with Capricorn tubing. You can also get a all-metal heat break for not very much - it's confusing which is the right type to buy, what you want is one that was made for a KRAKEN or CHIMERA hot end (these were four-nozzle and two-nozzle hot ends made by E3D back in the day, which wasn't that long ago since we're talking about 3D printing). They have an overall length of 21.5mm. These still require a PTFE tube, but they are shorter and don't extend all the way down to the nozzle and are therefore only in the cold zone. I think you might also need to make changes to the firmware to get the printer to go up to Nylon temperatures - there's some sort of limiter in there.
Actually - come to think of it... it might be possible to change the PTFE tube without dis-assembling the hot end, by pulling it out after you remove the nozzle, while the heat block is hot. You'll need some sort of extractor tool - maybe a drill bit of appropriate size. That would save a LOT of work. The tubes eventually do go bad.
Hey Calvin -- I've just bought my first 3D printer (an Artillery Genius), and your videos are invaluable for knowing how it ticks and how to fix it if it goes wrong. I have a quick question if you have the time: the part of the tension assembly which initially guides the filament into the extractor has this short black bit of hard tubing. I notice that, with the friction of the filament, this gets pulled into just touching the ridged, plastic gripper that's on the same part as the large cog. Is this expected or is there anything I can do to stop it? I'm just concerned about longer term wearing of that plastic grip and it not pulling the filament as effectively. Cheers!
First, thanks for the feedback that really means a lot! Second, I think you are referencing the little black "guide tube" on the top of the extruder arm, don't worry about that. It is normal for it to slide around and I have yet to have one be grabbed by an extruder when printing. I may do a video specifically on this since there are a lot of "myths" around it I see floating around online. If it sliding around really bugs you, you could try putting a little rubber cement on it to give it some friction but otherwise, don't fret it!
@@MakeItWithCalvin thanks so much! I'm actually rewatching this same vid for another reason now -- after a successful first print I bought a nice textured PEI sheet and upgraded the firmware, and everything has gone terrible! I'm getting errors when usb printing, and weird inconsistent extrusion! About to go through some troubleshooting steps, wish me luck 😂 and thank you again for the awesome vids - your non-printing ones are super interesting too.
Np, can't help you in the firmware department. That is one area I try to steer clear of at all costs, seen it brick way too many machines if done wrong. And thanks, it is fun having a diverse set of videos ranging from making campfires > 3D printing > model train stuff. It helps me no get entirely burnt out on one topic which happens.
@@MakeItWithCalvin yeah I feel that, about the burnout! Too much of a good thing eh. I just rebuilt the hotend and there was a concerning amount of things barely screwed in at the factory, and one screwed in so tight it stripped the head. Lots of molten plastic sandwiched between where the hotend should have been, and the heatbreak.
Fingers crossed this fixes things -- all the best to you, buddy.
Cheers, I think you are on the right track figuring it all out.
I love your videos, but on this one all I see are your hands during the important bits of taking this apart!
The X1 extruder is a pain in the ass
~gently~
nice hand zoom ... can we see the extruder now ? :) Thanks Calvin :) just joking ! will try on my X1 tonight !
Minute 9:46: What direction should the fan have? In another vid the cable was on the upper left corner.
What do you mean, the way it blows air or the way I put the fan on the printer? If you mean blows air, it needs to blow the air into the heatsink. As for how I put the fan on, you do it how it works best for you cable management wise!
@@MakeItWithCalvin Yeah, the second one. The way you did it was closer to the hotend, so I wondered.
@@sevdev9844 Yeah I was just popping it back on for the video, in all reality do it how you feel is the safest method!
I'm sorry, the half of the video with your hands covering what we had to see
Your hands are in way almost hole time