Extruder _ 5 Upgrades for better print quality
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Detail check and upgrad for better print quality.
For all Artillery extruders.
00:00 Intro
00:40 extruder filament path
01:26 filament guidance alignement
02:22 korrekt PTFE lenght
05:15 three heatsink versions
08:36 metal idler arm
11:35 gear play adjustment
13:29 open up bores to 3,5mm
14:58 ballbearing NO screw through !!!
17:33 free cut an filing big gear
Amazon:
Idler arm metal black
amzn.to/3oH5IsS
Aliexpress: perfect set for about 15 Dollar
all three in metal (Idler arm + small gear + big gear)
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7e1nJ
Both links are affiliate links an generate a comission for me.
www.buymeacoffee.com/just_pri... music: Whenever
by musician: LiQWYD - Наука та технологія
Great video. Will definitely have a look at my extruder more closely now 🤣 Thanks
Excellent stuff, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I would love to see a before and after print video.
Great video! Nice explained! I going to check my extruder!
Many thanks for that, merci de tes conseils avisés 👍
Laurent, de France
You sound just like the cloud from rick and morty that always sings to morty. Love the video metal gear was a huge saver.
Thank you for the tips and showing the driver anatomy. 3:26 I'm still not sure about air gap effects, but heaving the ptfe coming too much causes in my printer to it being crushed, narrowing the ptfe tube at the end of it and blocking pathway of filament. So I'm still not sure about the correct ptfe placement. I guess it should be exactly straight with the exit - avoiding air gap, and on the other hand, avoiding the nozzle to squeeze it. Thanks for documenting this.
Ive had a problem similar to the one at the end of you video with the rough large gear. My solution was to replace some wobblily bearings in the motor.
Your voice is amazing!! Have you recorded any audiobooks? If so I would love to listen to them!
Beautiful video! If I had seen this earlier, I could have saved myself all the correspondence with the manufacturer and seller.
This is already the second Genius Pro, the first went back because of packaging damage, but also had problems with the extruder. Same thing with the replacement unit. I even have another problem with the ball bearing, it made scratching noise. The large gear has a vertical runout and jammed like yours, after about 270 °. If you clamp the gear in a drill, you can see the imbalance. Somehow this extruder is "error by design". I am now waiting for the spare parts and hopefully after 1 month I can use the printer for the first time.
Have fun with your new spareparts :-)
@@justprinted_3den988 At first I thought it was meant ironically. But now that just about everything from the replacement kit has been installed and is finally working without jamming, the printer won't turn on. The main switch is stuck. For my part I am ending the Artillery experiment - unfortunately.
The best way to upgrade the stock titan clone extruder on the Sidewinder is to remove it, throw it in the trash, and replace it with any BMG clone extruder, with a V6 style heatbreak and volcano heater block.
I had noticed the pinion gear being off centre on two of mine but I need to check the rest lol and those original ptfe tubes are useless.
That extruder assembly reminded me of my old E3D Titan Aero. I wonder how they compare, and if the E3D Titan Aero would make a good replacement for it.
Great
Nice, but I've also noticed that the filament climbs back and forward on the teeth on the big gear, changing the quantity of filament being extruded. Extruder works more consistently if the bearing on the idler arm is also grooved keeping the filament on the teeth at the same diameter. My Genius Pro has extremely bad horizontal banding and was suffering all of the faults you have shown here, plus more. It still prints with banding and I am trying to determine exactly where it is originating from. Maybe the Z axis gear.
My X1 is bone stock and is printing fine
Great video, it clears up all those little things that we have observed in our Artylery printer. By the way, how did you remove the small gear from the motor shaft?
The small gear sits a bit tough.
Just go underneeth with a screw driver.
Having problems with putting it all back together.
Eventually I started suffering underextrussion.
Decided to swap nozzle, clean it up, but print head began to bleed plastic when working. Then took it appart, put back togheter, same jsut less.
Third time, i put it back together, and heated up to tighten it...and I ripped off nozzle head.
Waiting now for new heat block to come in.
How on earth re-assamble it to remove gap between nozzle and feed throat?
I am currently in the process of fully rewiring my Genuis and Sidewinder, I am fed up with these cheap horrible pcb's and flat cables. So I am getting rid of the lot and creating a silicone wire custom loom. Wish me luck.
Why not just get a different printer? The entire selling point of the sidewinder x1 is the minimal wiring with the flat cable... You can just replace the pcb with one with a locking connector and be done, that's how the x1 was and it had no issues but people kept breaking the connector by not unlocking it..., but if you want to rewire it.... Just sell them and get an Ebder 3 or 5, or anycubic.... print quality is comparable and cheaper.. only difference is the simplicity of wiring
Had no single problem with my original flat cables. But I am awaiting trouble to come :-)
I notice there is nothing to hold the ptfe tube in place down in the heat break! I've just had to change mine due to clogs but I can't see it lasting long with not being held in. 👌
The heatbreak ptfe is held in with a defined length within the heatbreak bore end and presses against the flat nozzle. If the ptfe length is to short, filament will sqeeze out and clogg
Thank you for the nice video, do you see any difference now on printing quality after these changes ? (maybe at higher speed you can see more gap, right ?)
To have the extruder running smooth is the first thing you better look for when searching for that perfect outer skin.
For me it was worth it.
Where did you find the all metal extruder feeder gear? I am seeing plastic on AliExpress.
For the feeder, the small driving gear is always metal. Attached to it is the large gear, which is always also plastic as far as I observe the online available parts. If it says metal, than it reffers only to that small gear.
Link del dispador de auminio, porfa
Could it not be converted to dual gear instead of the idler?
So far I have not seen any advantages for the dual gear. When printing much faster than regular, you would probably at some point need more feeding pressure and a dual gear could make sense. Im not convinced in any speed printing, so dual gear is not in my focus.
Just replace the extruder, can find decent cheap ones, or get a decent biqu for $60. I went the expensive LGX + Mosquito route along with SKR mini e3, huge difference, though the SKR alone and tweaking marlin had a giant improvement, moreso than replacing the extruder
does it result in better surface quality?
@@justprinted_3den988 a better extruder? Absolutely, well an extruder + hotend, it increases quality, speed, and what materials you can print as long as you get a decent one. The Bondtech LGX with mosquito made a huge difference, though it is about the price of a new printer, Biqu is a lot cheaper. Also a 32 but board upgrade, like a SKR mini e3 is also a very good upgrade for quality.
be good if you would show a before and after print so we know if this is all just a waist of time
Changed the larger wheel, but the smaller one, (seen here at 9:32) seem to be glued, and there is no tiny screw.
Well, used the force...
I remember that the small plastic whell was just pressed on, not glued
The Artillery is total rubbish.
Get good kid
@Just Printed_3D (EN) can you share your slicer settings please I would like to get good prints
There are too many variables to get good prints, geberal printer mechanics followed by suitable slicer settings.
Printing with the srandard slicer profiles for artillery should already deliver very nice prints.
Printing to fast or a poor mechanical conditions of rollers, play etc are most likely reasons for poor prints. Therefor there is no secret behind my slicer settings, all is standard, 0,2 mm layer by 0,44 line width, no faster than 40mm/ sec printing walls, 60mm/sec infill
Well @justprinted_3den988 I don’t understand how a ender 3 can have better print quality then a sidewinder x2 heck my cheap clone prusa i3 does better quality prints than my sidewinder idk what to do seems like the printer is not precisely layering the filament properly seems chunky layers and not smooth
Even changing out to a 0.8mm nozzle and printing at 0.2mm seems like to me that the printer main board is not running the print smoothly how it should be idk what to do i already have z support brackets and that helped the wobble abit
Sorry about the late reply I found your video again and found my own comment lol
@justprinted_3den988 With the idle arm is the baring smooth or does it have teeth on it because you don’t show us it’s not shown in the video because there’s 2 models of that arm smooth or has teeth not sure what to get ?