Very helpful video! It took me a while to find the source of the rattle and then learn what what a torsion bar was 😂. Then found ur video and now ready to do my 04 silverado. Thank you!
Great tip, using a cut-off wheel and air chisel. Other vids I've watched show grinding the heads off which seems like a lot more work than is necessary.
This is an easy repair except on the Z71 trucks. Or at least the Z71 regular cabs anyway. There is an extra tubular brace that begins right behind the torsion bar mounts and you can’t get a new mount in on the driver side without actually removing the torsion bars and crossmemeber. There just physically isn’t enough room. PITA. Aside from those models this is a pretty straightforward thing and this video is a definite help.
I usually use a torch, being careful. I found with living in the rust belt the rattling on the frame rail with an air hammer will disturb the rusty brake lines and fuel lines enough that they’ll start leaking when your done. Then you get the “they weren’t leaking before” from the customer.
If rattling the *frame* causes rust to come off of *brake and fuel lines* to the extent that they leak, clearly the lines need to be replaced as priority #1.
Very helpful video! It took me a while to find the source of the rattle and then learn what what a torsion bar was 😂. Then found ur video and now ready to do my 04 silverado. Thank you!
Looks easier than I thought it would be. Thanks for showing me what I have to do now.
Kenny you make it look easy.
Enjoyed that.
Great tip, using a cut-off wheel and air chisel. Other vids I've watched show grinding the heads off which seems like a lot more work than is necessary.
Great video. Quick and to the point. You explained it very well.
Very informative sir, keep making the great videos
Have the same amount of slop on mine! This is my next project to do. Definitely makes a heck of a clunk when I hit a bump.
This is an easy repair except on the Z71 trucks. Or at least the Z71 regular cabs anyway. There is an extra tubular brace that begins right behind the torsion bar mounts and you can’t get a new mount in on the driver side without actually removing the torsion bars and crossmemeber. There just physically isn’t enough room. PITA. Aside from those models this is a pretty straightforward thing and this video is a definite help.
Dang it. I am just running into this issue and was hoping for better news then that
How did you get the new one in on the driver's side
Great video
I've got a bushing out in my 2500 do you not need to unload the torsion bars while doing this job as long as you leave one side hooked up?
Good job. Thanks
I usually use a torch, being careful. I found with living in the rust belt the rattling on the frame rail with an air hammer will disturb the rusty brake lines and fuel lines enough that they’ll start leaking when your done.
Then you get the “they weren’t leaking before” from the customer.
If rattling the *frame* causes rust to come off of *brake and fuel lines* to the extent that they leak, clearly the lines need to be replaced as priority #1.
Inform the customer the status before the repair, show him or her while truck on the lift lol
I need to do this to my 2006 silverado 3500. The driver side one is clunking like crazy
Does anyone know anything about the infamous 2-3 shift clunk on these trucks with the 4l60e?
Kenny..man, is your shop anywhere near Savannah?
Thx i did! Lol keep it up!