You’re a smart man. Obviously learned how to communicate what’s important and how to avoid the stuff we don’t need to know. I like your attention to the important details. Thank you for putting all the effort into your productions.
Thank you sir, being retired and after watching your videos I am saving a lot of money by doing my own maintenance on my 2017, 2500, 6.7L. I’m looking at all your videos and have them all in one file.
Thanks for the tutorial Marion. I have the confidence to change mine once the truck thaws after its long winters nap. Shaky hands have alot of heart behind them. Merry Christmas 🎄
You sir are a Godsend. I realized today at work that I replaced a coolant hose during the summer and my truck had been sitting mostly full of water. Temperatures have been dipping into the danger zone, but supposed to get into the single digits tonight. I’m working 14 hour days and thought I’d be up all night saving my engine. Thanks to you I accomplished the task shortly after bedtime. Thanks so much!!!
On my 2012 Ram 2500 there is a bleeder valve for the cooling system on the passenger side of vehicle near the egr cooler. It is also the highest point in the cooling system. Opening that vent will help to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Thanks for all the videos. You have saved me a ton of money by being able to do my own maintenance and by showing me how to do it correctly. Also I have to laugh at some of your off handed comments in some of your videos.
There is a 4th way to access the drain plug on the 2014 Ram 6.7 diesel without removing anything and is the easiest of all. Simply slide your LEFT hand between the wheel well cover and you will find an access opening in the frame to reach the drain plug. You will feel around for the plug location which is very close to the opening in the frame and then I used my 3/8" rachet with a 10mm Allen socket. With just a couple of 1/4 turns the coolant starting flowing. I would hope most diesel rams would have this opening.
Great video and super helpful. Only thing I’d is that the coolant drain valve at the bottom of the radiator opens up a drain right next to it. You can attach a length of tubing to the drain before turning the valve allowing you to drain all the coolant into a 5 gallon bucket with no mess. I’ll admit I did take off the wheel well housing rather than going from the top, so it was easy to see everything.
Mr. Blair, you are the best! I love the Cummins engine. My best friend in life, Mac, was a mechanic and had 2 trucks with the Cummins and told me not to buy anything else.
Been waiting for this video before doing mine, I definitely feel more confident about doing this myself. I think i might change the thermostat while I’m at it just as a preventative measure. Thanks for the tutorial Marion.
Thanks for the in depth information. I have a 2016 Ram 2500 and have changed the differential fluids and transfer case myself after watching your videos. Your a great help!!!
Marion I found out that the hose that comes with your def fluid bottles works perfectly on any gallon jug ! Works every time great video I enjoy watching you
Marion- Quick thanks for taking the time to walk us DYI types thru the paces !!! I got a low coolant warning & turned out that the coolant reservoir turned a sludgy brownish color and was causing a fault with the sensor … It was quite a chore to get the clearance to remove the coolant reservoir and replace with a new one. Did a flush and coolant change which cleared the low coolant fault !!! However, after cleaning the coolant reservoir using SUPER hot water & cascade all the sludge n gunk was gone… So, if one has the time and desire to remove, clean, replace, flush and refill… It is possible to remove the fault by a “vigorous cleaning cycle” !!! Or $800 at the dealer will get the fault cleared using Dealer Service 24k magic !!!
I had to change my thermostat on my 2011 3500 CTD this summer. It was alot easier to get to the drain valve on it. Thanks for all the videos you do. I had to pee at 9:12!!!
I swear this channel has access to my fleet maintenance schedule sometimes. 🧐 Great content, great timing and easy to understand and follow. Much appreciated from SW PA 💪🏻💪🏻
Hi Marion and thank you as always. My used 15' had the pump done as required before I owned it; now at 125k miles, I'm making a plan for long term ownership. I'm thinking around the 150k mark I will replace the fluid, as you just did, but also replace the pump (again), tensioner, belt, and the Y pipe (other hoses as needed). I don't care to add an aftermarket filter system, but I do want to do a certain amount of work to help with longevity and keep it out of the shop. Thanks again, and I look forward to the next one.
How is your '15 holding up? Mine is a '16 deleted at 17,000 miles, now had 92000 miles, no problems yet other than wearable stuff, brakes, front u joint and wheel bearings...just curious, thanks
@@noahsmadda8828 Had a u-joint go under warranty. Put in a Thuren track bar to stop death wobble. Have to be gentle with 5th and 6th gear, but it drives fine if you are not hard on it. Big thing for the north east is keeping the rust off of it, so I put fluid film on each year. I'm happy with it, I can't see giving up the mega cab anytime soon.
Thanks for that secret route to the drain , hopefully it’s the same on my 2016. I doubt I will change anytime soon as a water pump recall & then a turbo actuator failure has made for 2 different drain & coolant replacements( warranty) Oddly enough that funnel for the fuel fits and stays in by itself on mine . I also always carry 5 gallons of fuel in a can with a modified spout & have needed it ; ) Stay safe & be well
Greetings, finally have something to add :). I bought a used 2015 2500 Big Horn with the 6.7, about 127K miles. I'm slowly moving through maintenance items, sometimes at the dealer if cost benefit seems in my favor. The coolant was getting up there in age, so I had the dealer flush it all out, they used a cleaner and then refilled up with the same Mopar that Marion showed. Total cost in California out the door was $270, which for me was fair, I wanted it flushed and did not want to deal with disposal. Note that I don't think I have the Y flange so maybe just one radiator starting with my year, not sure. They gave me what was left of the gallon because a little burping still and the low level light would come on and off at a stop light, no big deal. Anyway, just sharing experience and cost for a "flush" at the dealer. Cheers everyone.
My 2015 was in the water pump recall. My dealer used the vacuum system to recharge the cooling system after replacing the water pump. After a few days, I started getting the low coolant warning light. The dealer noted on the work order that the workshop manual's instructions were followed but the system did not recharge correctly. Just an FYI. I have the coolant vacuum system and it works well with all my equipment, most diesel land management like tracks and RTVs. Have yet to use it on my RAMs but will when they come due.
Great video. I thought it was going to be harder than this. I have been putting it off. Ironically I just added some fluid on my truck yesterday and thought about changing it out. Now I know how. Thanks Marion!
Your engine looks clean like a new truck. I worked construction and a2016 was my work truck so it’s dusty and with some oil spills. 178567 miles with just maintaince And a turbo replacement.
My dealer made it easy for me when the water pump went out with about 80 k miles on it. Still under warranty . They changed it to the upgraded version where it leaks out from the housing instead of the front bearing.
Another great video Marion, thank you!. Today I had de "low coolant" amber light on for a few second after starting the engine, so I'm looking for the right level to fill it up, can't find it on the reservoir
My 11 model is nothing like that. I figured it would be similar. I was able to use a 3/8” hose ID and open the drain valve, drained it into a 5 gallon bucket.
Love how you said you were going to use mopar coolant at the beginning of the video. Then put the purple aftermarket stuff in your truck and turned the jug so we couldn't see the brand. Lol. Mopar is is a orangeish red color.
Hey Marion loved your video. Truck is also due for a brake fluid change. I hope you post a video if you decide to do it yourself. ill be looking forward to it.....
Actually, according to the cummins and ram service manual vacuum fill is required due to egr cooler, otherwise failure of egr cooler and overheating is possible. To many air pockets that require vacuum fill.
Vacuum fill is what I’m doing on my 08 6.7 deleted but I filled this way once and took for short ride and I know I have air pockets in mine heater don’t blow warm air now and temp fluctuates on which way you turn. If u don’t vacuum fill you will eventually crack egr if u still have it
A hex socket and short ratchet wrench works better than hex wrench. Put the socket on the wrench and rotate it on the ratchet until it slides in the drain plug. It takes several turns to open up the plug and you only have to put the socket in the drain plug once.
I never use 50/50 when changing my antifreeze! The best way to get a 50/50 mix is to start by adding full strength antifreeze up to 1/2 of the cooling system's capacity. Then add distilled water until the radiator is full and add more distilled water as needed as air is purged from the system. If you use 50/50 instead of full strength, you will end up with more water than antifreeze in your cooling system because around a gallon or so of water remains in the engine block even after your drain the system. Also, I don't recommend fooling with the petcock. They tend to break off or start leaking so I only make sure they are closed and never open them. Just pull off the bottom radiator hose and flush as many times as necessary to end up with clean water on your last flush. You can also remove the block heater and with a few plumbing parts connect a garden hose to really back flush the entire system and don't be surprised if the block heater could stand to be replaced. I was amazed how bad mine looked.
Hi Marion I wanted to ask about this for sometime, glad to see a video from you. My 18 started a weep after a cold snap last year coolant in it tested to -43c. But we got a bit cooler than that. So the dilution of the mopar coolant is rated to only -35c. That’s what the dealer put in... ended up with a way bigger leak and repair bill..... So After replacement Rad i used a different mixture now back down to -50c. Gonna try not to use it in anymore cold snaps. Thanks for the tips, I hope your doing well.
I have already changed the upper y connector, i think I will go ahead and change the lower Y connector. I'm having to service the Turbo Actuator so I think I'm going all the way time for the flush anyway.
My dealer had to drain my coolant, and they did not replace all of it, I drove from S. Texas to Trinidad Colorado, and put in about 1/2 gallon, drove another 100 miles and put another quart in. So dealers don't even use the tool.
Thank you. I have the same truck and noticed that I can smell antifreeze in the engine bay after a drive up to temp. It uses a small amount of coolant as well from the reservoir. There are no obvious signs of a leak. I did have the water pump recall done way back and im the original owner. I only have 48k on the truck. Any ideas I really appreciate it? Thank you
I do the pour a gallon of concentrate then a gallon of distilled, gallon of concentrate, gallon of distilled etc.. on the last one I might do 1/2 gallon concentrate and 1/2 distalled. that gets you to 5 gallons then mix the rest of water into antifreeze container and fill as needed.. guess you need to start and run engine to get air out.. would suspect if you flushed the heater core it might take a bit more .. book shows cap at 5.7 gallons.
just go under the truck' on driver side. it's a plug that sits on the bottom-side of radiator. mines have nub that you can twist it off to drain' and back in to close when ready to refill.
Another great video Marion. I wonder if you have thought of putting a video together around fuel injectors. I've read a lot in forums about how many 4th Gen trucks need them replaced around 100-150K miles. I try to buy the Nano filters to keep small particles out of the system, but am curious on your thoughts.
I have the same truck, I had the water pump recall done at 40000, I have 96k now, dealer say to wait till I have 100k on coolant, so for me 140k. Tested mine with infractor, show -38*. Just wondering why you did yours so early. And I didnt see you flush it. Just a dump and fill. Why you didnt flush it good before refill. At the cost of the coolant of 80 dollars, I will flush mine good, these trucks are known for heater cores plugging up. When they did the water pump, they flushed mine, and there was all kinds of crap in the coolant. So I had them add a coolant filter to system to help protect the heater core from plugging up. Have a good day.
Yes, I did it early. Suppose to be 10 yrs or 150K. I'm on 8 years. I just wanted to make sure it didn't have any of the crap you talked about. I got 5 of the 5.6 out so I didn't flush. Ideally, I could have refilled with distilled water and diluted that .6 gals left behind and then drain. Water is the only flush I'd use, no chemicals flushes.
Did not notice if you bled the coolant bleed bolt just in front of the egr cooler. This keeps air out of the egr cooler which causes an internal leak? If you change your ccv filter at 60k, a Cummins rep says you can wait for 120k to clean the egr cooler and valve. Cleaned mine at 75k just to find the water seals too stuck to get out...so, 50k must be the way to go. I also make sure that the ccv air filter is changed every 25k.
Great video, as always! You are the best. Off topic, but have you noticed on the Def guages, mine will show about 90% but the banks monster guage says 62%. I think the mechanical guage reads to the dent in the tank and the banks may read from the top? Was odd, and was just wondering if you had ever noticed! Keep the videos rolling, friend.
I have always used a water pump lubricant but I don't even know if they make it anymore. Did you run a cleaner through the system. I've also open slightly a threaded plug on top passenger side of the head to get air out.
Could you have reached the drain valve from underneath? Just wondering. And you're right, Ram engineers are very good at two things: putting parts in difficult to reach locations, and coming up with the most complicated and difficult to see locking mechanisms on every wiring harness plug in.
Thank you sir, Ive been waiting for this, Ive been following your videos since I bought my '16. I use your videos so I don't have to pay out the ass for a diesel tech to do all this. I like the method of going thought the top of the engine to get to that valve. You use distilled water for diluting?
Yes, distilled water and concentrate 50/50. Going thru the top is definitely the way to go. Just have a long sleeve shirt of maybe a shop towel or something on the edge but I didn't have any problem.
Prestone says it is compatible with OAT POAT HOAT & IAT and works with all vehicles. Has anybody used Prestone in their Ram and mixed the Prestone coolant with the factory coolant???
@@edlopez93 I have read mixing some coolants will turn the coolant into jelly and some coolants will not be compatible with some metals in the cooling system. Don't know if there is any truth to this or they are just trying to sell over priced coolant?
Wasn't there a "bleeder" in the vicinity of the EGR cooler? On a '17 there definitely is. [EDIT: on a '19 the Factory Service Manual says the vacuum fill tool is mandatory to ensure no air pocket(s) in EGR cooler]
I am going to attempt to explain this. Does your coolant reservoir have a spot right in the bottom front where if you over fill the coolant it leaks out. I have a 15 and my reservoir does this if it gets over filled. I am not sure if a plug or something was supposed to be on that bottom portion of the reservoir. Reason I am asking this is I see that you were able to fill the reservoir up really high while it was taking coolant in and I don’t thank i would be able to do that due to my reservoir having that drain on the bottom. By the way I do appreciate the videos you do they do help tremendously.
CR . Exactly where I'm at with my 2014 RAM TDI after changing the upper Y connector....filling reservoir and farting around with slight Y leak... here's what I've experienced...when too much coolant gets added to reservoir and you try to burp the excess air out of the system by squeezing the upper radiator hose either: 1) With filler Cap ON any excess fluid flows over an internal channel near the top of the filler neck into a front facing secondary chamber and eventually exits from the "spot right in the bottom front where it leaks out" as you stated; Or, 2) With filler Cap OFF and you squeeze the excess fluid bubbles/escapes out over the top of the filler neck and makes a mess of engine before hitting the ground below ....Trust me I know...
Yes, I know what you are talking about. When the cap is off, and you overfill, it would run out that bottom thru that compartment. When you put the cap on, the o-ring in the cap seals that off and allows the tank to pressure up. If the pressure gets over 21 psi, it will let the pressure/ coolant go out that same place. That's so it doesn't spray out the cap itself. It does the exact same thing as the older models with the radiator cap and the rubber hose overflow.
Once again, thank you for another fine video. (Assuming the system is at the proper level before starting the change) Would it be worth while to measure the amount that came out? I'm wondering if that would be a simple method of know exactly what needs to go back in. Just a thought. Dave
You’re a smart man. Obviously learned how to communicate what’s important and how to avoid the stuff we don’t need to know. I like your attention to the important details. Thank you for putting all the effort into your productions.
i’m just
Thank you sir, being retired and after watching your videos I am saving a lot of money by doing my own maintenance on my 2017, 2500, 6.7L. I’m looking at all your videos and have them all in one file.
Thanks for the tutorial Marion. I have the confidence to change mine once the truck thaws after its long winters nap. Shaky hands have alot of heart behind them. Merry Christmas 🎄
You sir are a Godsend. I realized today at work that I replaced a coolant hose during the summer and my truck had been sitting mostly full of water. Temperatures have been dipping into the danger zone, but supposed to get into the single digits tonight. I’m working 14 hour days and thought I’d be up all night saving my engine. Thanks to you I accomplished the task shortly after bedtime. Thanks so much!!!
Just did my coolant change yesterday with your help. Flushed my heater core while I was at it too. Thank you sir
On my 2012 Ram 2500 there is a bleeder valve for the cooling system on the passenger side of vehicle near the egr cooler. It is also the highest point in the cooling system. Opening that vent will help to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Thanks for all the videos. You have saved me a ton of money by being able to do my own maintenance and by showing me how to do it correctly.
Also I have to laugh at some of your off handed comments in some of your videos.
There is a 4th way to access the drain plug on the 2014 Ram 6.7 diesel without removing anything and is the easiest of all. Simply slide your LEFT hand between the wheel well cover and you will find an access opening in the frame to reach the drain plug. You will feel around for the plug location which is very close to the opening in the frame and then I used my 3/8" rachet with a 10mm Allen socket. With just a couple of 1/4 turns the coolant starting flowing. I would hope most diesel rams would have this opening.
Great video and super helpful. Only thing I’d is that the coolant drain valve at the bottom of the radiator opens up a drain right next to it. You can attach a length of tubing to the drain before turning the valve allowing you to drain all the coolant into a 5 gallon bucket with no mess. I’ll admit I did take off the wheel well housing rather than going from the top, so it was easy to see everything.
Mr. Blair, you are the best! I love the Cummins engine. My best friend in life, Mac, was a mechanic and had 2 trucks with the Cummins and told me not to buy anything else.
Been waiting for this video before doing mine, I definitely feel more confident about doing this myself. I think i might change the thermostat while I’m at it just as a preventative measure. Thanks for the tutorial Marion.
Thanks, you won't have any problem. Much easier than pulling hoses etc....
Thanks for some great information Marion. We can always count on you for non-BS content.
Thank you for every one of your videos, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the in depth information. I have a 2016 Ram 2500 and have changed the differential fluids and transfer case myself after watching your videos. Your a great help!!!
Pete did you change your fluid and if so how did it go.
@@nathanurick8320 it went fine just as he had said in his videos. No problems
Marion I found out that the hose that comes with your def fluid bottles works perfectly on any gallon jug ! Works every time great video I enjoy watching you
Marion-
Quick thanks for taking the time to walk us DYI types thru the paces !!!
I got a low coolant warning & turned out that the coolant reservoir turned a sludgy brownish color and was causing a fault with the sensor …
It was quite a chore to get the clearance to remove the coolant reservoir and replace with a new one.
Did a flush and coolant change which cleared the low coolant fault !!!
However, after cleaning the coolant reservoir using SUPER hot water & cascade all the sludge n gunk was gone…
So, if one has the time and desire to remove, clean, replace, flush and refill… It is possible to remove the fault by a “vigorous cleaning cycle” !!!
Or $800 at the dealer will get the fault cleared using Dealer Service 24k magic !!!
Awesome Marion, loving these service videos.
Great info. I have a 17 so I will be back to reference the information in a few years.
I had to change my thermostat on my 2011 3500 CTD this summer. It was alot easier to get to the drain valve on it. Thanks for all the videos you do.
I had to pee at 9:12!!!
I swear this channel has access to my fleet maintenance schedule sometimes. 🧐 Great content, great timing and easy to understand and follow. Much appreciated from SW PA 💪🏻💪🏻
Hi Marion and thank you as always. My used 15' had the pump done as required before I owned it; now at 125k miles, I'm making a plan for long term ownership. I'm thinking around the 150k mark I will replace the fluid, as you just did, but also replace the pump (again), tensioner, belt, and the Y pipe (other hoses as needed). I don't care to add an aftermarket filter system, but I do want to do a certain amount of work to help with longevity and keep it out of the shop. Thanks again, and I look forward to the next one.
How is your '15 holding up? Mine is a '16 deleted at 17,000 miles, now had 92000 miles, no problems yet other than wearable stuff, brakes, front u joint and wheel bearings...just curious, thanks
@@noahsmadda8828 Had a u-joint go under warranty. Put in a Thuren track bar to stop death wobble. Have to be gentle with 5th and 6th gear, but it drives fine if you are not hard on it. Big thing for the north east is keeping the rust off of it, so I put fluid film on each year. I'm happy with it, I can't see giving up the mega cab anytime soon.
As usual great info presented in a matter of fact way. Thanks for sharing.
Well that was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. I figured there would be bleeding involved. (Not you but the truck 😂)
Yea, I only added coolant once after it cooled completely down. Very easy job.
It’s called vacuum fill per cummins service manual
@repairvehicle vacuum fill requires a special tool that Marion mentions early on. He didn't use a vacuum, he did it the conventional way.
Great video brother. I always enjoy them, keep em coming. Blessing to you and your family.
Thanks for that secret route to the drain , hopefully it’s the same on my 2016.
I doubt I will change anytime soon as a water pump recall & then a turbo actuator failure has made for 2 different drain & coolant replacements( warranty)
Oddly enough that funnel for the fuel fits and stays in by itself on mine .
I also always carry 5 gallons of fuel in a can with a modified spout & have needed it ; )
Stay safe & be well
Water pump recall? I have a 17 didn’t know about that. Do you know the years it effects.
@@brettegarr8064 2016
You'd get a letter from RAM
Greetings, finally have something to add :). I bought a used 2015 2500 Big Horn with the 6.7, about 127K miles. I'm slowly moving through maintenance items, sometimes at the dealer if cost benefit seems in my favor. The coolant was getting up there in age, so I had the dealer flush it all out, they used a cleaner and then refilled up with the same Mopar that Marion showed. Total cost in California out the door was $270, which for me was fair, I wanted it flushed and did not want to deal with disposal. Note that I don't think I have the Y flange so maybe just one radiator starting with my year, not sure. They gave me what was left of the gallon because a little burping still and the low level light would come on and off at a stop light, no big deal. Anyway, just sharing experience and cost for a "flush" at the dealer. Cheers everyone.
My 2015 was in the water pump recall. My dealer used the vacuum system to recharge the cooling system after replacing the water pump. After a few days, I started getting the low coolant warning light. The dealer noted on the work order that the workshop manual's instructions were followed but the system did not recharge correctly. Just an FYI.
I have the coolant vacuum system and it works well with all my equipment, most diesel land management like tracks and RTVs. Have yet to use it on my RAMs but will when they come due.
Shaky hands getting it done! Great job, sir!
Great video. I thought it was going to be harder than this. I have been putting it off. Ironically I just added some fluid on my truck yesterday and thought about changing it out. Now I know how. Thanks Marion!
It's easy, go for it.
Your engine looks clean like a new truck. I worked construction and a2016 was my work truck so it’s dusty and with some oil spills. 178567 miles with just maintaince And a turbo replacement.
Always good content. No bs on your channel keep up the good work.Hope you and your family are well.
My dealer made it easy for me when the water pump went out with about 80 k miles on it. Still under warranty . They changed it to the upgraded version where it leaks out from the housing instead of the front bearing.
Yes, same.
Thanks, nice work. Saved me some time on mine.
Great video !!!! Keep them coming ! Super informative!
Very nice video. About to do my 15 3500 buts deleted out of necessity so it’s a lil easier. Thx for the effort making and posting ur work.
Great video, mine is asleep for the NW Minnesota winter.
Merry Christmas 🎄
Thank you Sir!!!! You just saved my Sunday with that 10 mm hex info. And that was well presented video God Bless
Another helpful video. Thank you, sir!
Great video, as always, Marion! Thank you and MERRY CHRISTMAS!! 👍
The Preston Dexcool 50/50 works. Has on the bottle MS 90032. Is around $16 or 17 at Walmart. I’ve had it in mine for 15k and no problems.
thanks, good to know
Appreciate the info! Thank you for taking the time!
Another great video Marion, thank you!.
Today I had de "low coolant" amber light on for a few second after starting the engine, so I'm looking for the right level to fill it up, can't find it on the reservoir
Nice job. Great tips!
Thanks Marion - you have done it again!!! Great job! Oh, I like your selection on XM radio. Fox News is the best!
Thank you Marion. That's a great tutorial
Great video and great explanation 👏 shot out from Brazil 🇧🇷
Thanks! I appreciate the advice and video how-to
My 11 model is nothing like that. I figured it would be similar. I was able to use a 3/8” hose ID and open the drain valve, drained it into a 5 gallon bucket.
Yes, I believe you have a radiator cap also?
@@MarionBlair yes I do. Took it off while I drained the coolant. Also have a little set screw looking thing on the coolant pipe by the egr cooler.
I loved this! Thank you for the information and an informative video!
Love how you said you were going to use mopar coolant at the beginning of the video. Then put the purple aftermarket stuff in your truck and turned the jug so we couldn't see the brand. Lol. Mopar is is a orangeish red color.
I'm pretty sure the engineers get together and say" how can we screw this up?".😉
Important to use distilled water when mixing 50/50.
Hey Marion loved your video. Truck is also due for a brake fluid change. I hope you post a video if you decide to do it yourself. ill be looking forward to it.....
Thanks, I plan to do that soon hopefully.
you are a bless sir Thank you for help us with your videos
Actually, according to the cummins and ram service manual vacuum fill is required due to egr cooler, otherwise failure of egr cooler and overheating is possible. To many air pockets that require vacuum fill.
Vacuum fill is what I’m doing on my 08 6.7 deleted but I filled this way once and took for short ride and I know I have air pockets in mine heater don’t blow warm air now and temp fluctuates on which way you turn. If u don’t vacuum fill you will eventually crack egr if u still have it
Commenting for support
Thank you Marion! 👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🐕
A hex socket and short ratchet wrench works better than hex wrench. Put the socket on the wrench and rotate it on the ratchet until it slides in the drain plug. It takes several turns to open up the plug and you only have to put the socket in the drain plug once.
“I’ve got the rest of my life to do this” 😂
I never use 50/50 when changing my antifreeze! The best way to get a 50/50 mix is to start by adding full strength antifreeze up to 1/2 of the cooling system's capacity. Then add distilled water until the radiator is full and add more distilled water as needed as air is purged from the system. If you use 50/50 instead of full strength, you will end up with more water than antifreeze in your cooling system because around a gallon or so of water remains in the engine block even after your drain the system.
Also, I don't recommend fooling with the petcock. They tend to break off or start leaking so I only make sure they are closed and never open them. Just pull off the bottom radiator hose and flush as many times as necessary to end up with clean water on your last flush.
You can also remove the block heater and with a few plumbing parts connect a garden hose to really back flush the entire system and don't be surprised if the block heater could stand to be replaced. I was amazed how bad mine looked.
That’s why service manual states vacuum fill to avoid damaging egr cooler with air trapped
Very nice video. Thank you sir!
Hi Marion I wanted to ask about this for sometime, glad to see a video from you. My 18 started a weep after a cold snap last year coolant in it tested to -43c. But we got a bit cooler than that. So the dilution of the mopar coolant is rated to only -35c. That’s what the dealer put in... ended up with a way bigger leak and repair bill..... So After replacement Rad i used a different mixture now back down to -50c. Gonna try not to use it in anymore cold snaps. Thanks for the tips, I hope your doing well.
I have already changed the upper y connector, i think I will go ahead and change the lower Y connector. I'm having to service the Turbo Actuator so I think I'm going all the way time for the flush anyway.
My dealer had to drain my coolant, and they did not replace all of it, I drove from S. Texas to Trinidad Colorado, and put in about 1/2 gallon, drove another 100 miles and put another quart in. So dealers don't even use the tool.
Good informative video. Thanks
Thank you. I have the same truck and noticed that I can smell antifreeze in the engine bay after a drive up to temp. It uses a small amount of coolant as well from the reservoir. There are no obvious signs of a leak. I did have the water pump recall done way back and im the original owner. I only have 48k on the truck. Any ideas I really appreciate it? Thank you
I do the pour a gallon of concentrate then a gallon of distilled, gallon of concentrate, gallon of distilled etc.. on the last one I might do 1/2 gallon concentrate and 1/2 distalled. that gets you to 5 gallons then mix the rest of water into antifreeze container and fill as needed.. guess you need to start and run engine to get air out.. would suspect if you flushed the heater core it might take a bit more .. book shows cap at 5.7 gallons.
just go under the truck' on driver side. it's a plug that sits on the bottom-side of radiator. mines have nub that you can twist it off to drain' and back in to close when ready to refill.
thanks for tips once again.
Thx just what I needed
Sir you are good 👍!!!
Another great video Marion. I wonder if you have thought of putting a video together around fuel injectors. I've read a lot in forums about how many 4th Gen trucks need them replaced around 100-150K miles. I try to buy the Nano filters to keep small particles out of the system, but am curious on your thoughts.
The factory filters are nanonet filters.
I use the nano-nano bot filters … Lol
Thanks for the video
Great Video, Thank You! Where can I buy those exact type of battery insulators? I can't find those anywhere. Thanks
Would help if you open the top radiator cap ? Just to help the air come out easier? Good video 👍👍
I have the same truck, I had the water pump recall done at 40000, I have 96k now, dealer say to wait till I have 100k on coolant, so for me 140k. Tested mine with infractor, show -38*.
Just wondering why you did yours so early. And I didnt see you flush it. Just a dump and fill. Why you didnt flush it good before refill. At the cost of the coolant of 80 dollars, I will flush mine good, these trucks are known for heater cores plugging up. When they did the water pump, they flushed mine, and there was all kinds of crap in the coolant. So I had them add a coolant filter to system to help protect the heater core from plugging up.
Have a good day.
Yes good point on the flushing, I was wondering the same thing, and what is the process for this? Straight distilled water or coolant /water mix?
Yes, I did it early. Suppose to be 10 yrs or 150K. I'm on 8 years. I just wanted to make sure it didn't have any of the crap you talked about. I got 5 of the 5.6 out so I didn't flush. Ideally, I could have refilled with distilled water and diluted that .6 gals left behind and then drain. Water is the only flush I'd use, no chemicals flushes.
@Chris C this is what I added the coolant filter, 50k and no issues, works good so far
Thanks Marion...
We men always wiggle, shake, or push the object after tightening it down and say, “that ain’t going nowhere” 😂
The best dodge ram videos on UA-cam. I have used this video 3 times now over the years. Thanks for all you do. 🫡
Great video
Did not notice if you bled the coolant bleed bolt just in front of the egr cooler. This keeps air out of the egr cooler which causes an internal leak? If you change your ccv filter at 60k, a Cummins rep says you can wait for 120k to clean the egr cooler and valve. Cleaned mine at 75k just to find the water seals too stuck to get out...so, 50k must be the way to go. I also make sure that the ccv air filter is changed every 25k.
Great video, as always! You are the best. Off topic, but have you noticed on the Def guages, mine will show about 90% but the banks monster guage says 62%. I think the mechanical guage reads to the dent in the tank and the banks may read from the top? Was odd, and was just wondering if you had ever noticed! Keep the videos rolling, friend.
I'll have to look at mine. Never noticed that.
I have always used a water pump lubricant but I don't even know if they make it anymore. Did you run a cleaner through the system. I've also open slightly a threaded plug on top passenger side of the head to get air out.
Could you have reached the drain valve from underneath? Just wondering. And you're right, Ram engineers are very good at two things: putting parts in difficult to reach locations, and coming up with the most complicated and difficult to see locking mechanisms on every wiring harness plug in.
No access from underneath without removing the fender liner.
@@MarionBlair is the plug visible from the top or do you just Have to Reach and feel for it
You can easily see it and get to it from the top..
Fiat designed the vehicle as well as every single Chrysler product. The company is now called Stellantis after Peugeot and Citroen merged with FCA.
good job gramps.... 🤠
Thank you sir, Ive been waiting for this, Ive been following your videos since I bought my '16. I use your videos so I don't have to pay out the ass for a diesel tech to do all this. I like the method of going thought the top of the engine to get to that valve.
You use distilled water for diluting?
Yes, distilled water and concentrate 50/50. Going thru the top is definitely the way to go. Just have a long sleeve shirt of maybe a shop towel or something on the edge but I didn't have any problem.
Fleetguard ES Compleat OAT (RED) is a solid replacement.
Marion: what was the total amount of new coolant - to replace old?
Thanks - awesome video!
The manual says capacity is 5.65 gals. I replace a hair over 5 gals.
Are you using distilled water to mix with the concentrate?
Yes
A must
Did you use 5 gallons or just 4 ?
Prestone says it is compatible with OAT POAT HOAT & IAT and works with all vehicles. Has anybody used Prestone in their Ram and mixed the Prestone coolant with the factory coolant???
Yes I’ve had no problem. Why shouldn’t you mix different coolants? I always make sure that the jug says all vehicles or it be specific to my Ram
@@edlopez93 I have read mixing some coolants will turn the coolant into jelly and some coolants will not be compatible with some metals in the cooling system. Don't know if there is any truth to this or they are just trying to sell over priced coolant?
Cheaper to go with concentrate and distilled H2O.
Wasn't there a "bleeder" in the vicinity of the EGR cooler? On a '17 there definitely is.
[EDIT: on a '19 the Factory Service Manual says the vacuum fill tool is mandatory to ensure no air pocket(s) in EGR cooler]
No, not on this one. Saw the bleeder on pre 4th gen models however.
@@MarionBlair interesting. I know you know your truck.
I have a 2018, 2500. How do i know if i have a "bleeder" or need the special tool ?
@@carlvin8693 apologies for a slow response. The bleeder is located near and above the EGR cooler. It should be obvious.
I am going to attempt to explain this. Does your coolant reservoir have a spot right in the bottom front where if you over fill the coolant it leaks out. I have a 15 and my reservoir does this if it gets over filled. I am not sure if a plug or something was supposed to be on that bottom portion of the reservoir. Reason I am asking this is I see that you were able to fill the reservoir up really high while it was taking coolant in and I don’t thank i would be able to do that due to my reservoir having that drain on the bottom.
By the way I do appreciate the videos you do they do help tremendously.
CR . Exactly where I'm at with my 2014 RAM TDI after changing the upper Y connector....filling reservoir and farting around with slight Y leak... here's what I've experienced...when too much coolant gets added to reservoir and you try to burp the excess air out of the system by squeezing the upper radiator hose either: 1) With filler Cap ON any excess fluid flows over an internal channel near the top of the filler neck into a front facing secondary chamber and eventually exits from the "spot right in the bottom front where it leaks out" as you stated; Or, 2) With filler Cap OFF and you squeeze the excess fluid bubbles/escapes out over the top of the filler neck and makes a mess of engine before hitting the ground below ....Trust me I know...
Yes, I know what you are talking about. When the cap is off, and you overfill, it would run out that bottom thru that compartment. When you put the cap on, the o-ring in the cap seals that off and allows the tank to pressure up. If the pressure gets over 21 psi, it will let the pressure/ coolant go out that same place. That's so it doesn't spray out the cap itself. It does the exact same thing as the older models with the radiator cap and the rubber hose overflow.
Thanks Mr Marion you did a great job, how many thousand miles to change the cooling? And why you don't replace the new thermostat as well. Thanks.
10 years or 150K, I think but I just decided to make the video early. Stock thermostat is find as far as i know.
@@MarionBlair thanks for reply, I watched all your clips and saved it, very helpful.
I have a 2018 Ram 2500, diesel,, would you think it would be the same procedure or process or same steps to change coolant as you do on your 2014 Ram
Yes, should be exact same
One minor difference is yours will not have a Y pipe, which will make it easier for you to get the air out
Is it save to still use ms 90032 coolant even though on the reservoir it says ms 12106?
yes
The only thing I missed did use distilled water??
Mix with distilled? I’m about to do within the next week, keep seeing contradicting stuff about distilled vs deionized H2O.
That sh*t got real funny from 10:08-10:50 lmao!!
Thanks, where did you get the anti-freeze at?
Once again, thank you for another fine video. (Assuming the system is at the proper level before starting the change) Would it be worth while to measure the amount that came out? I'm wondering if that would be a simple method of know exactly what needs to go back in. Just a thought.
Dave
Yes, absolutely