Overtime you will get a bunch of crap in your coolant solder bloom other contaminants just wear and tear stuff that will eventually get introduced. This is a great video, especially showing and cutting open the old reservoir and showing people how it works with the float versus the sensor well done.I recommend every 200,000 miles not just doing a coolant flush, but getting some of the D scale fluid to run through with distilled water to try and remove as much sludge as you can. This is an eventuality, but maybe it might lessen the timeline before things seize up.
Great explanation. Just got the low coolant light and temp was good, and level was good. Only 91k on a 2018 Cummins. What a poor design it seems to be, but thankful for your video
I saw a video(might be this one) that showed how to test it. Pretty simple. But it sounds like the sensor does not go bad….. just a piss poor design by Ram.
The SENSOR NEVER GOES, ITS ALL THE SILT IN THE SYSTEM THAT CAUSES THEE FLOAT TO STICK IN THEE LOW POSITION. I LEARNED BY WASTING MONEY ON A SENSOR.JUST GET A NEW RESERVOIR
@@ronmoore3987 100%. I’ve been living with the low coolant light and just watching the temp, but the long term plan is to replace the reservoir with a billet aluminum one. Couple companies make them. They use a traditional float mechanism and plug into the sensor.
I didnt need a reservoir on my 2014 till about 500,000 miles roughly, but my 18' I think after a water pump was changed may need a thermostat housing sanded flat after another u tuber hadd to do thaat with his,, he checked it with a pressure tester I hear those testers really help a lot. Some times a leaking antifreeze can be just butping thee engine too, due to an AIR LOCK.......
Another thing, I took thee cap off the reservoir,,and thee large O-Ring was loossy goosy,, another thing to check.Hot gasses can seep outa any little opening......
After replacing my turbo actuator and refilling my system, my truck signaled the low coolant light as well. I removed the inner fender got the truck up the temp and tapped on the bottom of the reservoir with a small hammer and light went out.
I flushed my heater core and added a coolant filtration system and how I’m dealing with the low coolant issue… but no loss of coolant. My assumption is I knocked enough crud loose and it settled in tank and fouled the magnet. Truck has 75K miles on the clock.
@@southernyankee2167 honestly try what I said. I was at wits end also. It's a float. If you know it's not leaking or overheating, get it up to temp and tap on that thing. I promise it will work.
There’s really no reason to drain the coolant other than what’s in the reservoir. The hoses going to it are higher than the radiator so it won’t lose much, especially if you clamp off the lower reservoir hose with something like needle nose vice grips before removing it from the reservoir. Worked for me anyway and only lost what was in the reservoir. Just saying.
That is a Piss poor place for the low coolant sensor.. Why not halfway up the side of the reservoir? The bottom will collect sludge and cause a false low coolant light..
Do you know if it got so much magnetized to it that it wont float anymore? Thats my theory because Ive got a neighbor thats had the light on ever since 40k miles and the tank is so clean Im thinking the mag. collected so much it wont float + on yours the rust sediment on the bottom and the pole may caused some drag. Im sure you tossed it by now but that would be an awesome test. Great video half way threw I said I wish someone would cut one apart then you whipped out the cutter. lol
@@scottsinfl Thanks. Interesting idea. Whatever the exact case the magnet is sludged up to where it diesn't move. I don't want people to get caught up in thinking its the sensor.
Great video. I just got the light 2018 Ram with 100k km, so about 60k miles.
Overtime you will get a bunch of crap in your coolant solder bloom other contaminants just wear and tear stuff that will eventually get introduced. This is a great video, especially showing and cutting open the old reservoir and showing people how it works with the float versus the sensor well done.I recommend every 200,000 miles not just doing a coolant flush, but getting some of the D scale fluid to run through with distilled water to try and remove as much sludge as you can. This is an eventuality, but maybe it might lessen the timeline before things seize up.
Perhaps 100k miles.
Great explanation. Just got the low coolant light and temp was good, and level was good. Only 91k on a 2018 Cummins. What a poor design it seems to be, but thankful for your video
Same here. 80K on a 2018. I’m going to test the sensor before diving into a reservoir change, but, man, this video will be helpful if I end up there.
I saw a video(might be this one) that showed how to test it. Pretty simple. But it sounds like the sensor does not go bad….. just a piss poor design by Ram.
@@StevenJarrett1961 This video is pretty straight forward. Shows how to test the circuit and the sensor: ua-cam.com/video/gB0-2aMFcZ0/v-deo.html
The SENSOR NEVER GOES, ITS ALL THE SILT IN THE SYSTEM THAT CAUSES THEE FLOAT TO STICK IN THEE LOW POSITION. I LEARNED BY WASTING MONEY ON A SENSOR.JUST GET A NEW RESERVOIR
@@ronmoore3987 100%. I’ve been living with the low coolant light and just watching the temp, but the long term plan is to replace the reservoir with a billet aluminum one. Couple companies make them. They use a traditional float mechanism and plug into the sensor.
Very informative video, thanks alot
Glad to be of service!
This video was very helping thanks a bunch sir 👍
I didnt need a reservoir on my 2014 till about 500,000 miles roughly, but my 18' I think after a water pump was changed may need a thermostat housing sanded flat after another u tuber hadd to do thaat with his,, he checked it with a pressure tester I hear those testers really help a lot. Some times a leaking antifreeze can be just butping thee engine too, due to an AIR LOCK.......
Another thing, I took thee cap off the reservoir,,and thee large O-Ring was loossy goosy,, another thing to check.Hot gasses can seep outa any little opening......
Thanks for your help
Thank you Sir. Much appreciated. I have same issue on my 2500
Thanks for the info 👊🏻⚡️🇺🇸
After replacing my turbo actuator and refilling my system, my truck signaled the low coolant light as well. I removed the inner fender got the truck up the temp and tapped on the bottom of the reservoir with a small hammer and light went out.
Interesting. I just drove mine a few miles and it was out by the next day. Maybe the sensor was sticking down as I ended up replacing it.
I flushed my heater core and added a coolant filtration system and how I’m dealing with the low coolant issue… but no loss of coolant. My assumption is I knocked enough crud loose and it settled in tank and fouled the magnet. Truck has 75K miles on the clock.
@@southernyankee2167 honestly try what I said. I was at wits end also. It's a float. If you know it's not leaking or overheating, get it up to temp and tap on that thing. I promise it will work.
@@southernyankee2167 75k is barely broke in. Changing coolant maybe 5 years is good. The crud that is attracted to the magnet is super fine.
@@nickboucher7339 so you removed the wheel well liner to get to the bottom of the tank? Trying to understand how to get to it.
There’s really no reason to drain the coolant other than what’s in the reservoir. The hoses going to it are higher than the radiator so it won’t lose much, especially if you clamp off the lower reservoir hose with something like needle nose vice grips before removing it from the reservoir. Worked for me anyway and only lost what was in the reservoir. Just saying.
My coolant tank looks just like yours at 240000. I'm replacing my tank today.
I'm happy I did it and hope my video stops people from buying the sensor only.
Good vid.
@@MrBlazeart Thank You!
That is a Piss poor place for the low coolant sensor.. Why not halfway up the side of the reservoir? The bottom will collect sludge and cause a false low coolant light..
Yup, my truck was at about 375k miles. Doubt coolant was changed as proscribed.
Do you know if it got so much magnetized to it that it wont float anymore? Thats my theory because Ive got a neighbor thats had the light on ever since 40k miles and the tank is so clean Im thinking the mag. collected so much it wont float + on yours the rust sediment on the bottom and the pole may caused some drag. Im sure you tossed it by now but that would be an awesome test. Great video half way threw I said I wish someone would cut one apart then you whipped out the cutter. lol
@@scottsinfl Thanks. Interesting idea. Whatever the exact case the magnet is sludged up to where it diesn't move. I don't want people to get caught up in thinking its the sensor.