Samsung Dryer runs 5 sec, stops 2.5 min, repeats
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- My dryer is the DV42H5600EW/A3, but many in this series are nearly identical, so this information should be good for many units. Verify your part numbers before ordering anything though.
This drier would run for about 5 or 6 seconds, then stop for just shy of 2.5 minutes, like, 2:24 or so, then it would start again and run for about 5 seconds. No error codes were displayed. The drum WAS tumbling but because the motor must be spinning for the heating elements to energize (elements are wired through the centrifugal switch on the motor) it wasn't heating and of course, clothes weren't getting dry. Upon disassembly I found the idler pulley had a deep groove worn in it and the centrifugal switch contacts were fused in the run position. The belt seems fine but it's only a few extra bucks on Amazon, so I'm replacing it. It has been stressed and heated after all. I'm, obviously replacing the idler, and because the centrifugal switch isn't available anywhere at all that I can find, I'm replacing the motor assembly as a whole (without the blower). I'm cheap, and mechanically proficient so I'm going with the least expensive parts I can find. If you'd prefer to not have to do this job for many years, I'd recommend maybe going for higher quality, higher rated parts.
So, over two years later now - just to update everyone, I haven't had further issues since repairing this dryer and I use it all the time. I hope this helps people avoid expensive repair bills and/or unnecessary replacement.
Just a thank you. Our dryer would run for a few seconds, stop for a minute or so, and then repeat. There was also a louder running noise than was normal. Contacts were fused. Thanks again.
This is the same issue my dryer is having. How did you fix yours?
Thank you very much, appliances are getting so expensive that I decided to fix my five years old samsung dryer and I will let you know the outcome. But it is true you are the only one I found to explain this situation.
Same issue with my 8 year old unit... but I decided to overhaul all rollers, belt, idler, heating element and motor all at once. fixed it for $300. Works like new (because it almot is!!)
I got the same symptoms with our dryer, thanks a lot for the video.
Matt, thank you so much for this post. I had the same issue with my Samsung dryer (over 10 years old). I was able to get the relay to unstick, sanded down the ends that had welded together to give them a clean point of contact, and put everything back together. Dryer is working again, it also allowed me to clean out all of the lint build up inside the dryer.
Great Post, saved me hundreds of dollars!
Wow thanks Matt! You’re the only video I’ve seen describe my exact problem. I’m currently in the middle of disassembling my dryer trying to figure out what’s going on. Going to definitely check for this
I typed this in to UA-cam, and your video popped up. So that doesn't mean I can fix it, 🤷♀️ but at least I won't feel like a total idiot when my repair guy comes out. So thank you for all the info.
Thanks a lot Matt... this information saved me $300.
The "pro" technician that I hired came up with a totally different diagnosis. He thought the heating element was the problem. This was kind of stupid when you think about it since the dryer was heating. He ordered the part and book an appointment for the repair a week later. This gave me the chance to search Internet for my problem and I found you video.
I opened my dryer and as a matter of fact the centrifugal switch was indeed the problem.
BTW, the amount of time it takes for the dryer to restart after it stopped, can vary deeply depending on the exact model but also by the ambient temperature and ventilation. For me, it was just a matter of about 50 to 60 seconds for the dryer to restart... which made me skeptical at first.
Thanks again!
Glad I could help, and thanks for additional info on the time being related to outside factors.
Thank you for this video! This was exactly what was wrong with my dryer. I ordered a new motor & belt, pulley, roller kit for $90 total and installed. Dryer is good as new!
Same problem. Your diagnosis is going to save me a ton of time and money 😂
Thanks!!! You should work for SpaceX or something. My dryer had the exact same issue except my pulley was fine; the bearings were worn out and dragging due to lint and dirt in the clean side of the dryer. Dirt got in there because the installer put like 8ft of flex hose that clogged up and over-pressurized the exhaust (there is supposed to be
Thanks for your reply. Good info on the flex hose.
Same issue and symptoms with my dryer...took it all apart to confirm and it twas that darn motor switch ...same contact was broken off on mine....Switch, cannot be bought separately from the motor... and so this dryer is now sadly heading to the round file..and it's a bummer too, because everything on this unit is tip top........$225 for a new motor is just throwing good money after bad...Thanks Matt for this video..it took me right to the problem and I can now junk this thing in peace :)
That seems awfully steep for a replacement motor. Mine was much cheaper.
@@sporktek that's what appliance pro wants...but even at half price...it's frankly not worth it....www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-motor-induction-dryer-dc31-00055g-ap5331095.html
Thank you for sharing this video I have the same problem after replacing the wheel drive still not start I did exactly the same what you did and it's working thank you
I want to thank you for taking the time to post this video. Although I’m pretty handy when it comes to electronics and such it’s not good 🤪. My part had the exact same running 6 seconds and stops cycle and the contact although not welded shut was burnt! Fingers crossed ordered new motor assembly. Thanks again.
Did that fix your issue? Got the same issue on a unit that was just given to us
Did it work?
Matt... You were spot on with your fix. I had the exact same problem with the switch. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This video is gold. My dryer is suffering the same exact symptoms!
Thanks for the info I just encounter this problem on my dryer.. I will try to open it and see what the problem is.
The centrifugal contacts need to be separated and cleaned with an old school automotive points file (yes I'm that old to still have one in my tool box). I had the start/stop issue crop up a few weeks after my belt tensioner went bad and I replaced it. Like you mentioned, overcurrent from startup friction due to a defective tensioner can cause the contacts to overheat and fuse together.
My exact problem. Thank you!
Thank you, that was the trick!
Matt,
Thank you for the very helpful video. I had the exact same symptoms and it turns out that a new motor and belt tensioner pulley were the fixes. I think, as others have mentioned, that the failure starts with the pulley binding (mine was nearly stuck) causing excessive current load on the motor resulting in the burnt points in the centrifugal switch. My complaint to Samsung would be this: the control board appears to sense the overload hence the shutdown. Why not display an error code? Also, the switch would be a simple thing to replace but, of course, it is not available separately. Fortunately, I was able to get a motor on eBay at a reasonable price( less than $50).
I'm glad my video has been of help. Thank you for your comment.
EXACT same thing happed to mine. That contactor had the same side fused together. Wish that contactor was available separately...
same issue here. unplugging then holding power then start no go. tried unplugging for a few hours no go. then wife held the cycle save for 5 seconds then hit start and it's currently drying a load. We didn't have any burn smells and didn't take it apart. I'll update if it breaks again
You nailed it! Ty so much!
Were you able to repair your dryer with this info?
I had the same issues but seperately. the pulley on mine looked exactly the same. they should really do something about this.
I took mine all apart today. It is having the same issue. I checked the electrical switch that you had fused and mine seemed to move in both directions and wasn't stuck. I checked the ohms on the sensors and they seemed good. Got it all back together, and ran it on timed dry. It ran ok for 10 minutes or so. Then I shut it off and switched it to normal which does the moisture sensing, and then it started the issue again. I tried timed dry and it's stopping after the 5 seconds again. I can hear clicking from where it seems that switch attached to the motor is. If it's clicking, I assume it's working? For the past few weeks there have been times where we have had to reach in and spin the drum by hand to get it to turn again when turned on. I pulled all of the wheels off and cleaned and put high temp auto grease on the pins (not alot) and I did the same for the tensioner wheel, which was already moving freely and wasn't broken like the one in the video. The heat is working when it runs. I'm thinking it's just the motor dying. If that's the case, I'll probably junk it. I think I'm done with samsung. We have their washer/dryer/fridge/microwave and stove. They have all had issues that seem to happen right after warranty time. Thanks for the video tho. It helped me at least what to look for.
I have better luck with LG than Samsung.
You probably did not need a new motor. the worn idler pulley would cause the idler to bounce most likely causing the safety switch to shut of the motor. Motor will not run if the belt breaks. The new improved idler no uses a bearing instead of a bushing, for smoother operation.
Contacts on centrifugal switch were burnt not making good contact.....put a wire brush to them and now dryer works fine
Hey there this was the first video that kind of matched what I was having an issue with so I watched it your description is exactly what is happening with my dryer it runs for six seconds shuts off for 1 minute and 24 seconds and then tries again and it repeats this as the timer counts down now my starting issue was a tiny bit different because I did have an issue with the drum turning prior to this issue but to resolve it I would open the door hold the door button down manually turn the drum it would pick up and start spinning and then the cycle would operate as normal… I did this for about 4 to 5 months with no issues and then this happened… Now there is a belt burning smell. I called a very well-known dryer repair man to look at it and they quoted me $750 to replace the motor they never even took the back off of the dryer… After watching your video I see the availability of the parts how difficult was this for you to fix yourself?
Its not difficult if you're moderately mechanically inclined. Just keep track of how things come off and put it back together in the reverse. $750 is extremely expensive for this repair. I think a lot of appliance shops want to scare you into buying a used replacement from them. Then they offer to "dispose" of your old one, take it back to their shop, perform the fix, and put it out for sale.
My local shops do this quite often. They also like to badmouth certain brands, like Samsung and LG, the reason often being that they aren't running out to service them every other year like they are with GE, Frigidaire, Maytag, etc.
Definitely verify the motor part number you need by referencing the dryer model number (sears parts direct is a great way to get the part numbers, then I look them up on Amazon to get a better deal). Right now, today, the motors with the part number DC31-00055G range in price on Amazon between about $70 and $140. My only advice on that would be, if its an easy job for you to do, and you feel okay taking a little risk, get the cheapest one, you might have to do the job again in a year, two three, etc, it might last a lot longer. If, however, you feel like it's going to be a really difficult job to perform, you might instead choose to get the more expensive one, because it may be of better quality. I don't really know if it is or not, but peace of mind being what it is...
you have the voice of the dude from Saw......
Thanks, this was my issue (along with 1 sticky drum roller). The contact on the centrifugal switch was fused but only slightly, there is some scorching and a little bit of spatter, do you think it would be reuseable if I clean up the contact a bit?
You can always try. Might see if an emery board for fingernail maintenance will fit in there.
If you're comfortable taking it apart and putting it back together, you've got nothing to lose. It won't make it unsafe or anything to touch up the points.
When the dryer stopped each time did you get a burning odor?
I did not. Not that I could tell anyway.
Was that the problem? Did it fix it ?
Yes
Did replacing the motor fix your issue? I'm having the same exactly problem but with a Whirlpool dryer. I replaced the motor because I also researched that the switch goes bad, which would shut off the motor. Unfortunately, the same problem occurs even with the new motor.
Sorry, I forgot to update- yes it did. In fact, the motor I purchased was the cheapest available on Amazon and it was identical to the one that came out, same manufacturer, same model number, only a new date of manufacture, and it wasn't defective.
But yes, in my case, because the centrifugal switch isn't available separately, replacing it and the obviously damaged idler pulley and belt completely remedied my issue.
Hey everyone my problem was that the idle pulley was not moving and started to making a groove on it and I sprayed some WD40 and that fixed it. Good luck.
Jose - once the idler starts to go and especially once a groove starts, it's not long for this world no matter how much lubrication you throw at it. You should order a replacement idler at the very least (some might say you should also replace the belt). Both are a lot cheaper than the motor. I am pretty sure the idler went first on mine, but I didn't catch it, and it wore a deep groove. At some point the current draw to start the motor, or switch over to the run state, became too high and the centrifugal switch began to suffer. You are probably still good but if you let the idler go too long, or someone else who isn't listening as carefully starts using the dryer a lot, you will likely find yourself with a bad switch like me, and you will be in for a new motor at that time. Good luck, le me know if you have any questions on this repair and thanks for your comment.
@@sporktek yes you are right, I ordered a new one online because there is a noise when is being in use. Also I sand paper the contacts plates inside the switch and that is probably the main reason of why it was running for about 6 seconds and then stops.
Thanks Matt that was a big help.👍👍👍👍👍
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Exactly the same problem over here.... the idler pulley has been cut in half by the drum belt
I have the same symptoms, but I have been running a a few ohms test, on the main board, (which appears to be ok) the blower sensor (which seems to be ok) and the two stages of the motor (which seem to be ok) What other cause could there be?
Try replacing the coil kit
@@DeeOne88 Are you referring to the heating element coil kit? Is that correct or is there another coil kit I’m missing? Thanks