Dryer not heating? Check these 5 things first: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html Learn how to replace the heating element here: ua-cam.com/video/S0iPh_GGlRg/v-deo.html
Great video, my dryer was working but I didn’t have heat. Then I took apart heat element was good but thermostat was bad so I replaced now that I’ve put back together and double checked wires my display is NOT doing nothing NO power no lights or sound will come on… can you do a video or reply with a suggestion
Dryer overheats, HE signal appears between 2/3 weeks, I unplug the unit and work fine for a couple weeks, thermistor, or high heat control? Maybe the main control board???
No, that will not stop the dryer from working. But it indicates that the dryer is lacking airflow and the heating element should be replaced. Try testing the thermal fuses as we show here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Great video, so my dryer was working but I didn’t have heat. Then I took apart heat element was good but thermostat was bad so I replaced yet now that I’ve put back together and double checked wires my display is NOT doing nothing like I don’t have any power no lights or sound will come on… can you do a video or reply with a suggestion
Not getting a beep from the element but other 2 are making a beep I am assuming just the heating element is bad. Any info thank you. Silly me found the break but as I said do I just need to replace the element if the other 2 react to the continuity test
Yes it sounds like a bad heating element! You should be fine to replace just the element by itself, but it usually isn't much more expensive to replace the whole element as an assembly that includes a new thermal fuse and thermostat.
My dryer goes to HE with 5 towels in there. If I take 2 out, then it is fine. Doesn't seem right. Dryer doesnt look too overloaded. What is the recommended load in this dryer?
Maybe the high limit thermostat is tripping and opening up because the dryer is overheating? This video might help you more here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Fantastic video! It really made checking the continuity crystal clear. I wish I had gotten to your video sooner rather than the others that left me with questions. However, now that I have checked everything I do have a question. The parts all check out. The thermostat, thermo fuse and coil are all good, yet the dryer is not heating. What else could be the issue? Will replacing the heat coil assembly with a new one fix it?
Hi Tom! If these components all check out, then next we would check to make sure the power supply to the dryer is good and that there are not any burned wires on the terminal block. If those are good then you might be looking at a bad main control board, motor, or wiring.
Does the wires on the thermostat have to be exact? Order wise? And what about the thermistor? And high limit???? I replaced all and still have no heat.... wth?
There is no polarity to the wires so they can connect to either of the two terminals on each component. We have a video that shows the wire connections here: ua-cam.com/video/S0iPh_GGlRg/v-deo.html If your dryer is not heating, check out this video here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Hello I have a Samsung dryer front load, recently bought the thermistor from your online store, my dryer is overheating 🔥 I changed the termal fuse and thermistor and clean the air vent, but still is overheating, it works for 2 min and then is shutting off appears HE CODE 🙄 can you tell me if can be have broken heating element? Appreciate you response, Thank you.
Does the dryer heat when you run it on an air dryer (no heat) cycle? Check to make sure the wiring from the thermistor to the main control board to good and not shorted/broken. If that is good then you may have a bad main control board.
If my element is 10ohms, my themistors and thermostats test good as well, and my relay is reading 120v after I can hear it engage, but still no heat, what next?
@@mannyhouston forgot to write back here again. It was my 220 plug, one of the 3 prongs wasn't making connection, so it was only getting 120v, enough to make it run, but not heat! Bent the prongs some to help make contact, worked like a charm.
My continuity tests show continuity on all 3, but the plate is cracked. Can this cause no heat? Heat stopped working on timed dry, but normal setting still heated. Now no heat at all. Does this sound like a control board issue?
@@PartsDr thanks for the reply. I did these tests, everything checks out except my element is showing 14ohms. If I have a bad main control board it looks like I need a new dryer, as the part is no longer available by Samsung.
@@Sean-oq3ox 14 ohms is higher than normal but probably still in the range to be good? If the power supply to the dryer is good and it is not outputting 220-240v to the heater then the main board could be bad. We have also seen the centrifugal switch in the motor go bad and cause similar symptoms.
Hello, My Ohms are reading 12.3, my Thermal switch however has no continuity... Due to this I know I need a new thermal switch, but is 12.3 ohms within tolerance or do you think that is bad too?
Great video. I have a question. When i test the two prongs for the heating element for contuinity i get none. But when i touch one prong and then put my other lead to the casing, i also dont get continuity????
@@davidebellisario5300 if the element coil is shorted the coil will be touching the frame of the element frame/housing. Normally the ceramic insulators keep the element coil suspended so it is not touching the element frame/housing.
Dryer not heating? Check these 5 things first: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Learn how to replace the heating element here: ua-cam.com/video/S0iPh_GGlRg/v-deo.html
Very , very great step by step trouble shooting video. Thanks to you I've got our dryer back on line. Thanks a bunch
Awesome! We are glad you found it helpful!
Thank you. You’re a good teacher
You're welcome!
Thank thank thank you!!! None of the other videos showed this exact model! I really appreciate you making this video! It was so easy to fix!
Thank you! We are glad you found it helpful!
@@PartsDr I wanna be cooperative partner with you! here is my email:debbieyanjia@gmail.com
Great video, my dryer was working but I didn’t have heat. Then I took apart heat element was good but thermostat was bad so I replaced now that I’ve put back together and double checked wires my display is NOT doing nothing NO power no lights or sound will come on… can you do a video or reply with a suggestion
Dryer overheats, HE signal appears between 2/3 weeks, I unplug the unit and work fine for a couple weeks, thermistor, or high heat control? Maybe the main control board???
So if no coils are broken but the heating element plate is broken will that make my dryer not work completely? There was continuity in the element.
No, that will not stop the dryer from working. But it indicates that the dryer is lacking airflow and the heating element should be replaced. Try testing the thermal fuses as we show here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Very good vid! Good job guys!
Thank you!
Great video, so my dryer was working but I didn’t have heat. Then I took apart heat element was good but thermostat was bad so I replaced yet now that I’ve put back together and double checked wires my display is NOT doing nothing like I don’t have any power no lights or sound will come on… can you do a video or reply with a suggestion
We would recommend to double check all of your electrical connections and power supply to the dryer.
@@PartsDr Thanks for response, I’ll be checking it back out today. I’ll let you know what cause is and response and reassurance was right on time 👍🏼😃
very good presentation.
Not getting a beep from the element but other 2 are making a beep I am assuming just the heating element is bad. Any info thank you. Silly me found the break but as I said do I just need to replace the element if the other 2 react to the continuity test
Yes it sounds like a bad heating element! You should be fine to replace just the element by itself, but it usually isn't much more expensive to replace the whole element as an assembly that includes a new thermal fuse and thermostat.
My dryer goes to HE with 5 towels in there. If I take 2 out, then it is fine. Doesn't seem right. Dryer doesnt look too overloaded. What is the recommended load in this dryer?
Maybe the high limit thermostat is tripping and opening up because the dryer is overheating? This video might help you more here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Fantastic video! It really made checking the continuity crystal clear. I wish I had gotten to your video sooner rather than the others that left me with questions. However, now that I have checked everything I do have a question. The parts all check out. The thermostat, thermo fuse and coil are all good, yet the dryer is not heating. What else could be the issue? Will replacing the heat coil assembly with a new one fix it?
Hi Tom! If these components all check out, then next we would check to make sure the power supply to the dryer is good and that there are not any burned wires on the terminal block. If those are good then you might be looking at a bad main control board, motor, or wiring.
Does the wires on the thermostat have to be exact? Order wise? And what about the thermistor? And high limit???? I replaced all and still have no heat.... wth?
There is no polarity to the wires so they can connect to either of the two terminals on each component. We have a video that shows the wire connections here: ua-cam.com/video/S0iPh_GGlRg/v-deo.html
If your dryer is not heating, check out this video here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
Im getting 13.7ohm on the heating element is that good or bad
That sounds like a good reading to us.
Hello I have a Samsung dryer front load, recently bought the thermistor from your online store, my dryer is overheating 🔥 I changed the termal fuse and thermistor and clean the air vent, but still is overheating, it works for 2 min and then is shutting off appears HE CODE 🙄 can you tell me if can be have broken heating element? Appreciate you response, Thank you.
Does the dryer heat when you run it on an air dryer (no heat) cycle? Check to make sure the wiring from the thermistor to the main control board to good and not shorted/broken. If that is good then you may have a bad main control board.
If my element is 10ohms, my themistors and thermostats test good as well, and my relay is reading 120v after I can hear it engage, but still no heat, what next?
then it could be your circuit board. or a faulty wire somewhere
@@mannyhouston forgot to write back here again. It was my 220 plug, one of the 3 prongs wasn't making connection, so it was only getting 120v, enough to make it run, but not heat! Bent the prongs some to help make contact, worked like a charm.
If it’s 13 ohms is it a bad heating element?
That is probably a good reading.
My continuity tests show continuity on all 3, but the plate is cracked. Can this cause no heat? Heat stopped working on timed dry, but normal setting still heated. Now no heat at all. Does this sound like a control board issue?
A cracked plate would not cause it to stop heating. Check out this video for some things to check here: ua-cam.com/video/iWZucCy3EC8/v-deo.html
@@PartsDr thanks for the reply. I did these tests, everything checks out except my element is showing 14ohms. If I have a bad main control board it looks like I need a new dryer, as the part is no longer available by Samsung.
@@Sean-oq3ox 14 ohms is higher than normal but probably still in the range to be good? If the power supply to the dryer is good and it is not outputting 220-240v to the heater then the main board could be bad. We have also seen the centrifugal switch in the motor go bad and cause similar symptoms.
When testing the resistance on the heating element (cheap meter with no continuity tester), my meter reads 09.7. Should that be translated to 9.7ohms?
Yes, most likely.
Hello, My Ohms are reading 12.3, my Thermal switch however has no continuity... Due to this I know I need a new thermal switch, but is 12.3 ohms within tolerance or do you think that is bad too?
It sounds like the heating element is most likely good.
@@PartsDr so 12.3 ohms is within tolerance... Thank you!
Great video. I have a question. When i test the two prongs for the heating element for contuinity i get none. But when i touch one prong and then put my other lead to the casing, i also dont get continuity????
From your readings that you received it sounds like you probably just have a burned out element.
@@PartsDr i took it right out it is indeed cracked (coil itself) what is the difference between broken/burned out and shorted? Thanks
@@davidebellisario5300 if the element coil is shorted the coil will be touching the frame of the element frame/housing. Normally the ceramic insulators keep the element coil suspended so it is not touching the element frame/housing.
@@PartsDr i understand! Getting a new one thank you
Samsung dryers such
Replace heating element in Samsung dryer
We have a video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/S0iPh_GGlRg/v-deo.html
Ill never buy another one samsung dryer or oven
What if your own reading is 10.8
😊
That would be a good reading.
Samsung dryers suck.. good video though.
17 years as an appliance tech,,,,don't buy Samsung, continued problems.
Would 12ohms be considered a good element?
Yes that is a good element.
@@PartsDr thank you for your reply, much appreciated!