@giltesa Do you have a followup video for 3.1? Are there videos showing how to remove the components from the board prior to installation? Is there a video you recommend showing replacing the capacitors?
Hello Luke, I don't have a step-by-step video for the latest version, I have only this video where you wrote a message which is for 2.1, although the installation is very similar with the current version, in fact, it's now easier with the improvements added to the board. I always recommend to follow the guide, I update it with any change of the boards: github.com/giltesa/Game-Boy-Color-USB-C-charging-kit-Pro/raw/master/3.%20Documentation/Installation%20Guide.pdf In the GBP one, I show you how to remove some components. In this other one of the color (not the PRO version), I explain a bit how to remove components, but on a different circuit. ua-cam.com/video/yOIhhSY7Itc/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/6jVHuUIQE74/v-deo.html I think this video will be useful for you; I believe it's what you were looking for. ua-cam.com/video/9Kjlwg49Qwc/v-deo.html In this video, they demonstrate various ways to remove the original capacitors: ua-cam.com/video/2VA_CANmr08/v-deo.html Kind regards, giltesa
@@giltesa Which method of removing capacitors do you recommend? (Least likely to rip off pads). With the 1700mAh battery, do you know any place I can get a battery that doesn't take 2 months to get? Preferably with the connectors already attached? So far best I've been able to find is FunnyPlaying charging kit and just using their battery. I've also seen some videos of people using a 2000mAh from FP. Do you know if that fits in the FP case, or does it require clipping? Assuming 1700mAh should fit fine in their case.
@@Luke42652 If you don't have a good soldering iron, I think the best way is to break the capacitors and then remove the legs one by one. I removed them without breaking them, and it was very challenging (I needed them in one piece to take a picture with the new ones). I only know this battery with the correct connector for this kit: retrogamerepairshop.com/collections/gbc-power/products/103048-1500mah-lipo-battery-cell?variant=40148868792492
@@giltesa I have an FX951 and a variety of tips. That should be sufficient? I guess my concern is heating up both sides of the capacitor with the legs well underneath. Makho has a video where he did it, but he used two soldering irons. Makes me wish I had soldering tweezers. I have yet to upgrade to something like an FM203. But I guess what you mean by a decent soldering iron you mean consistent heat, which does FX951 does. So I should be good with what I have?
@@Luke42652 I think your soldering station is better than mine, an AOYUE 968A+, so you shouldn't have any problems. Exactly, I mean that it has enough power to heat the ground plane of the motherboard. A trick I follow is to add a good amount of solder to one of the legs, then heat it until it melts. Then, I insert a piece of paper between the capacitor and the leg, remove the soldering iron, and the solder solidifies. Since the paper is in between, the capacitor cannot reattach to the motherboard. Finally, I heat the other leg of the capacitor and remove it.
When testing my version of this board (3.2) I am not able to get the color of the led to change from red. Is this expected? When plugged into the wall it shows red even with no battery plugged in
Please make another revision to this board where the pads for the charging leds aren't TINY. Was just installing a kit and the pads ripped off when I was routing the wire in the top shell.
I just got mine and it's been going well so far, but I wasn't able to tell that the board doesn't fit until I cut off the led indicator. I'm using a cpu-05 gbc, but when I try and set the USBc board down, the F1 fuse gets in the way of UOUT on the charging board. Can I remove F1 and just solder UOUT to the left pad or do I need to do something else?
Yes, sorry. The board has its own fuse now and doesn't need the F1 from the GBC. You need to remove F1 and solder UOUT on the left. I will update the guide soon 😓
@@giltesa No worries! I appreciate the quick response. I realized after making the comment that I have the newest model that's a little different than the one you used in the video. Still, I just wanted to be sure. Thank you!
I'm having some issues. I do not have an EM4 as I'm using a CPU05 board. I have bridged the SND pad to the ground point via a small gauge wire you suggested in the instructions but still have no sound. I have checked continuity fro every wire including the green sound wire and it's all coming up good. Any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong or need to do to get that sound working?
Hello Katie, You can check if you have continuity between the audio jack pins 5 and 4. Both should have continuity depending on if you have or not connected a headphones. ibb.co/mFkNWgq
@@giltesa I also have CPU-05 board. The speaker works fine after I wired the kit's pad where it supposed to be soldered with EM4 on other version boards to the top left pad of the headphone jack on the GBC board. However, after I plug in the headphone there is no sound comes out from the headphone. I checked the continuity between the audio jack pin 5 & 4, the result is it's good when no headphone plug in but no continuity if headphone plug in. The headphpone was working fine before install the kit. Any idea what's problem?
@@alphaking88 Hello, It’s quite strange, I think it should work. However, I couldn’t test the board on that GBC mainboard version. I will test soon if removing the EM4 component on my board CGB-CPU-03 changes the way to work. You can also send me some photos here, maybe I can see something else: shop.giltesa.com/contact/
This looks great! Does the audio amplifier have a feature where audio is completely cut off or silent when the volume wheel is turned all the way down? As in, the speaker is off, no static or white noise?
No, it doesn't have that option, and if you have the volume wheel of the audio amplifier at 100% and the GBC volume wheel at 0% you can still hear a bit the sound... however it's crazy to have the internal volume wheel at 100% because is too loud. My recommendation is 50% or less. The unique way to have 100% disconnected the sound is connecting the audio jack because it makes the audio amplifier sleep.
I’m waiting for my order to arrive. A question though; someone told me I will not be able to charge and play at the same time with this kit. Is that correct? It looks like you are booting up the GBC while charging in the video?
The board doesn't have this feature yet, so it's better don't do it at the same time, if you do the charger chip will not able to know when the battery is 100% full because the GBC is using it, so the light may not change from red to green and the board may be warmer.
@@jonasborgstrom4111 The board uses a SH 1.0 mm 2P connector for the battery, it's rare batteries came with this size, it's the reason the kit include a battery cable with this connector. You can replace your cable with the included with the kit. You're welcome 🙂
I'm using this screen, I think it's a copy of the funny playing and for me is working well with no extra cables, just connect the screen (it's possible to solder a cable but I did and I removed because I didn't see any difference with our without it) a.aliexpress.com/_v2u48K
@@urubarin3966 the boards have left the factory today, so in less that 2 weeks I should have it. You can "subscribe" to the product and get and email when there is stock again shop.giltesa.com/product/game-boy-color-usb-c-charging-kit-pro/
@@urubarin3966 I recommend this battery, but be sure you have a shell without the AA batteries separator in the middle: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001308043027.html
I’m having an issue with the sound. Installed everything and lights are working as shown in the video. However, I get no sound from the speaker. I’ve tried three different speakers all known to be working. I get sound from the headphone jack, but there is an awful tone if I listen while charging. Any idea? Thanks!
Sorry, my bad. I rushed ahead and tried the speaker before installing the light and sound cable. Everything is done now and is working perfectly. Thanks for your quick reply! However, there is a missing sound channel in the intro of Tetris just as with the RetroSix pro amp. Is there any workaround for this?
And now all of a sudden the speaker started to make and awful noise when powered by the battery and a high tone again when connected with the usb c. What to do?
@@jonasborgstrom4111 Check you have soldered the speaker cables well, the green cable correctly and this has not been damaged with any screw when you closed the shell. The audio cables show be as short as possible, the speaker should be an 8Ω 1W speaker and check also the electrolytic capacitors are not damaged. The variable resistor VR1 is recommendable set up it about 40%
Thanks. I’ve checked all solder points, looks good. I wonder though, when I’m charging I’m getting this almost fast blinking light. It’s not exactly blinking, more like struggling to keep a constant light. When I’m not charging the green light is steady and fine. Is this normal?
Lamentablemente casi la totalidad de pedidos son de USA o resto de Europa. Por eso no tengo ya nada en castellano (antes traducía las entradas del blog) En cualquier caso, si tienes cualquier duda pregunta por email que te ayudo sin problemas :)
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@giltesa Do you have a followup video for 3.1? Are there videos showing how to remove the components from the board prior to installation? Is there a video you recommend showing replacing the capacitors?
Hello Luke,
I don't have a step-by-step video for the latest version, I have only this video where you wrote a message which is for 2.1, although the installation is very similar with the current version, in fact, it's now easier with the improvements added to the board.
I always recommend to follow the guide, I update it with any change of the boards:
github.com/giltesa/Game-Boy-Color-USB-C-charging-kit-Pro/raw/master/3.%20Documentation/Installation%20Guide.pdf
In the GBP one, I show you how to remove some components. In this other one of the color (not the PRO version), I explain a bit how to remove components, but on a different circuit.
ua-cam.com/video/yOIhhSY7Itc/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/6jVHuUIQE74/v-deo.html
I think this video will be useful for you; I believe it's what you were looking for.
ua-cam.com/video/9Kjlwg49Qwc/v-deo.html
In this video, they demonstrate various ways to remove the original capacitors:
ua-cam.com/video/2VA_CANmr08/v-deo.html
Kind regards,
giltesa
@@giltesa Which method of removing capacitors do you recommend? (Least likely to rip off pads).
With the 1700mAh battery, do you know any place I can get a battery that doesn't take 2 months to get? Preferably with the connectors already attached? So far best I've been able to find is FunnyPlaying charging kit and just using their battery.
I've also seen some videos of people using a 2000mAh from FP. Do you know if that fits in the FP case, or does it require clipping? Assuming 1700mAh should fit fine in their case.
@@Luke42652 If you don't have a good soldering iron, I think the best way is to break the capacitors and then remove the legs one by one.
I removed them without breaking them, and it was very challenging (I needed them in one piece to take a picture with the new ones).
I only know this battery with the correct connector for this kit:
retrogamerepairshop.com/collections/gbc-power/products/103048-1500mah-lipo-battery-cell?variant=40148868792492
@@giltesa I have an FX951 and a variety of tips. That should be sufficient? I guess my concern is heating up both sides of the capacitor with the legs well underneath. Makho has a video where he did it, but he used two soldering irons. Makes me wish I had soldering tweezers. I have yet to upgrade to something like an FM203. But I guess what you mean by a decent soldering iron you mean consistent heat, which does FX951 does. So I should be good with what I have?
@@Luke42652 I think your soldering station is better than mine, an AOYUE 968A+, so you shouldn't have any problems.
Exactly, I mean that it has enough power to heat the ground plane of the motherboard.
A trick I follow is to add a good amount of solder to one of the legs, then heat it until it melts. Then, I insert a piece of paper between the capacitor and the leg, remove the soldering iron, and the solder solidifies. Since the paper is in between, the capacitor cannot reattach to the motherboard. Finally, I heat the other leg of the capacitor and remove it.
ordered last night :) gonna be fun :)
When testing my version of this board (3.2) I am not able to get the color of the led to change from red. Is this expected? When plugged into the wall it shows red even with no battery plugged in
Please make another revision to this board where the pads for the charging leds aren't TINY. Was just installing a kit and the pads ripped off when I was routing the wire in the top shell.
I will try to make them stronger for the next order to the manufacturer. 👍
Awesome project! Do you plan to realease a BOM for this board at github in the future?
Thanks Bruno. Yes, sure. I uploaded it now.
github.com/giltesa/Game-Boy-Color-USB-C-Charging-Kit-Pro/tree/master/1.%20PCB
I just got mine and it's been going well so far, but I wasn't able to tell that the board doesn't fit until I cut off the led indicator.
I'm using a cpu-05 gbc, but when I try and set the USBc board down, the F1 fuse gets in the way of UOUT on the charging board. Can I remove F1 and just solder UOUT to the left pad or do I need to do something else?
Yes, sorry. The board has its own fuse now and doesn't need the F1 from the GBC. You need to remove F1 and solder UOUT on the left. I will update the guide soon 😓
@@giltesa No worries! I appreciate the quick response. I realized after making the comment that I have the newest model that's a little different than the one you used in the video. Still, I just wanted to be sure. Thank you!
I'm having some issues. I do not have an EM4 as I'm using a CPU05 board. I have bridged the SND pad to the ground point via a small gauge wire you suggested in the instructions but still have no sound.
I have checked continuity fro every wire including the green sound wire and it's all coming up good. Any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong or need to do to get that sound working?
Hello Katie,
You can check if you have continuity between the audio jack pins 5 and 4. Both should have continuity depending on if you have or not connected a headphones.
ibb.co/mFkNWgq
@@giltesa I also have CPU-05 board. The speaker works fine after I wired the kit's pad where it supposed to be soldered with EM4 on other version boards to the top left pad of the headphone jack on the GBC board. However, after I plug in the headphone there is no sound comes out from the headphone. I checked the continuity between the audio jack pin 5 & 4, the result is it's good when no headphone plug in but no continuity if headphone plug in. The headphpone was working fine before install the kit. Any idea what's problem?
@@alphaking88 Hello,
It’s quite strange, I think it should work. However, I couldn’t test the board on that GBC mainboard version. I will test soon if removing the EM4 component on my board CGB-CPU-03 changes the way to work.
You can also send me some photos here, maybe I can see something else: shop.giltesa.com/contact/
This looks great! Does the audio amplifier have a feature where audio is completely cut off or silent when the volume wheel is turned all the way down? As in, the speaker is off, no static or white noise?
No, it doesn't have that option, and if you have the volume wheel of the audio amplifier at 100% and the GBC volume wheel at 0% you can still hear a bit the sound... however it's crazy to have the internal volume wheel at 100% because is too loud. My recommendation is 50% or less.
The unique way to have 100% disconnected the sound is connecting the audio jack because it makes the audio amplifier sleep.
I’m waiting for my order to arrive. A question though; someone told me I will not be able to charge and play at the same time with this kit. Is that correct? It looks like you are booting up the GBC while charging in the video?
The board doesn't have this feature yet, so it's better don't do it at the same time, if you do the charger chip will not able to know when the battery is 100% full because the GBC is using it, so the light may not change from red to green and the board may be warmer.
Thanks for your reply!
Another question, what exact molex does the battery connect to? I’ve got the right li-po but without connector. Thanks!
@@jonasborgstrom4111
The board uses a SH 1.0 mm 2P connector for the battery, it's rare batteries came with this size, it's the reason the kit include a battery cable with this connector. You can replace your cable with the included with the kit.
You're welcome 🙂
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! ⭐️
This is awesome. Any idea when you will get more back in stock?
As soon as I receive the package with the boards, I hope in the next week 👍
Is it possible to use a funny playing retro Pixel v2 screen pre-laminated because I read they need the negative voltage of the old power converter.
I'm using this screen, I think it's a copy of the funny playing and for me is working well with no extra cables, just connect the screen (it's possible to solder a cable but I did and I removed because I didn't see any difference with our without it) a.aliexpress.com/_v2u48K
Thanks for the information. When can I order one of these boards?
@@urubarin3966 the boards have left the factory today, so in less that 2 weeks I should have it. You can "subscribe" to the product and get and email when there is stock again
shop.giltesa.com/product/game-boy-color-usb-c-charging-kit-pro/
Ordered the pro version with also the old one and a 3d tool. Can you recommend a lipo ? I have a retrosix backshell.
@@urubarin3966 I recommend this battery, but be sure you have a shell without the AA batteries separator in the middle: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001308043027.html
I’m having an issue with the sound. Installed everything and lights are working as shown in the video. However, I get no sound from the speaker. I’ve tried three different speakers all known to be working. I get sound from the headphone jack, but there is an awful tone if I listen while charging. Any idea? Thanks!
Hello Jonas,
Have you installed the cable with only one wire (green colour) between the sound wheel to the "S" pad? ibb.co/rFR9QcQ
Sorry, my bad. I rushed ahead and tried the speaker before installing the light and sound cable. Everything is done now and is working perfectly. Thanks for your quick reply!
However, there is a missing sound channel in the intro of Tetris just as with the RetroSix pro amp. Is there any workaround for this?
And now all of a sudden the speaker started to make and awful noise when powered by the battery and a high tone again when connected with the usb c. What to do?
@@jonasborgstrom4111 Check you have soldered the speaker cables well, the green cable correctly and this has not been damaged with any screw when you closed the shell. The audio cables show be as short as possible, the speaker should be an 8Ω 1W speaker and check also the electrolytic capacitors are not damaged. The variable resistor VR1 is recommendable set up it about 40%
Thanks. I’ve checked all solder points, looks good. I wonder though, when I’m charging I’m getting this almost fast blinking light. It’s not exactly blinking, more like struggling to keep a constant light. When I’m not charging the green light is steady and fine. Is this normal?
What kind of battery ( model or aliexpress link) do you use
This one: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001308043027.html
The whole details here: shop.giltesa.com/product/game-boy-color-usb-c-charging-kit-pro/
这个套件适配GBC的原装屏幕吗
Does this kit fit the original screen of GBC😃
This kid is compatible only with IPS screens, not the original.
@@giltesa Thank you,I think maybe I should buy an ips screen😆The charge kit is amazing!
No se en que he fallado pero me quede sin pantalla ips y sin sonido 😅
Te respondí al email con las posibles conexiones faltantes que te has debido dejar. Échale un ojo 👍
when will these be back in stock???
I should receive 40 units tomorrow, they will be in the shop as soon as I prepare them👌
@@giltesa awesome hopefully I can grab a few
Just ordered can't wait to get it!
Can you use type-c to type-c cables with this board?
Yes, you can. Except the GBASP board, the rest accept USBC to USBC cables and charge with any charger, fast chargers too but a normal speed.
@@giltesa brilliant! Thank you!
En castellano hubiera sido la ostia 😅
Lamentablemente casi la totalidad de pedidos son de USA o resto de Europa. Por eso no tengo ya nada en castellano (antes traducía las entradas del blog)
En cualquier caso, si tienes cualquier duda pregunta por email que te ayudo sin problemas :)
@@giltesa 🙏🏻agradecido