Why is it that Ford, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, do not issue recall's for these obvious mistakes in design and engineering?! Customers pay $90k for a truck and have to put up with this?! Great channel and appreciate the info from you and AROD!! Sad that it is necessary...
what they said, money, and recalls are also mainly for something that can get you seriously hurt like an air bag recall or seatbelt recall, so if your truck is leaking oil ford's gonna think "well that's not gonna kill you" and theyre not gonna spend the extra money on that kinda recall, companies are only gonna recall something that will put them in a lawsuit
I have had my 17 F250 6.7 for 11 days. Just found oil leaking from the engine or lower oil pan. Thankfully the truck came with a 100,000 mile warranty or I’d be out a few thousand.
@@FlyingWrenches13 No Sir, I drive commercially hauling campers all over the US. I currently have a '19 F250 6.7 Powerstroke. Love it, but starting to look at the 450s!
What a great channel this is. I have a 2016 450 and it has just developed a leak. A small one. It isn't even dripping on the ground yet. I only knew about it because my dog chased a cat under it and came out with an oil slick on his shoulders. I haven't discovered where it's leaking yet, but now I have a few ideas of where to look. Keep up the good work!
As a tech, it doesn't matter what I'm working on. I only use Toyota's FIPG or "The Right Stuff" by permatex (who I think might have copied the Toyota formula.) Both are so good that they will seal well even if the surfaces are somewhat dirty, oily, etc. The Toyota sealer is way expensive and not nearly as readily available, so in recent years, I've primarily used "The Right Stuff" in the small caulking gun compatible size.
I wish I would have seen your channel a year ago. I made the mistake of trading my perfectly good 2002 F250 7.3L Powerstroke for a new 2016 F350 6.7L Powerstroke. Then last summer it started leaking oil substantially. The local Ford dealer initially diagnosed the issue as a leaking vacuum pump assembly. After teo months of waiting for parts, they made the repair and the day I drove it home, the leak was worse than it had ever been. Oil running everywhere after the 6 mile drive home. Puddles of oil, not just drips. After returning to the dealership, they then said it was the front cover leaking. The two repairs cost me over $4,000 and the truck was five months out of warranty. It only had 65,000 miles on it. Ford would not contribute one single cent to helping with this repair cost. Have been a Ford truck guy since 1973 but this is the last Ford I'll ever own. I appreciate all your excellent advice, wish I would have seen it sooner!
I did a video on my channel replacing the lower oil pan on a 2015 Powerstroke. It’s crazy how many of these trucks we work on and you wonder why they did not get it right in the first place! Nice video man!
How in the heck do you have fewer than 6k subs!?! You give amazing advice and info to Ford guys. I'm a Ram guy, but respect your mechanical acumen. #subbed!
I had leak at the vacuum pump, the bolts backed out. Put a new seal in with some locktite and she's good. I know it's a common problem and I actually saw it on UA-cam, couldn't have been one of PTT AROD'S videos as well. 👍
I will agree, I think the RTV with high crankcase pressures is asking for trouble. Somebody has said they went back to a gasket with the 2021s? Haven't confirmed with the manual yet.
It’s a press style gasket on the 21 upper pans, which I loved when I first seen them. Butttt they siliconed the front cover 🤦🏼♂️ it’s like they just want the engine to leak haha
I have the non filter ccv on my 18'. I have 115k on it and no pressure from the oil fill cap. Should I still change the ccv? Is there a different service interval for these as opposed to the filter tyep? Should i change it regardless to prevent an oil leak or keep going and keep checking for pressure? Thanks!
I had the same concern. When I was at about 110k a popular guy told me no pressure, it's fine. A friend of mine is in charge of 900+ trucks for ComEd and he told me I should change it asap. He recommended even if there is no pressure to change it no later than 100k miles. At 150k I had no leaks and no pressure. At my 150k oil change I used Hot Shot secrets stiction eliminator and my truck was making a weird noise and while trying to locate the noise I notice it had developed an upper pan seep. I changed the vent right away. It spilled a bunch of oil while removing it. I am not sure if that is normal with a good vent or only when it is done doing it's job. My recommendation would be to change it. I am not sure if the stiction remover caused the leak/seep or if it was the vent. Next time I will change mine before 100k to be safe. Good luck.
Great idea on the upper pan. I remember PTT filming that RTV video in my driveway 🤣. I agree with PTT that needed to be said. I was told day one at the dealership never use black rtv on diesels. I always had a tube of gray in my gun.
I know this is a older video but my 22 with 33k miles is in the shop with a oil leak. I was changing my oil and found a leak on the engine above the filter. They just confirmed rear main seal leak, no excessive crank case pressure. Was have extremely hard down shift is tow haul from 3-2 and 2-1. After a few times in and they heard me say tow haul then they figured out about a TSB for exactly that. Reprogrammed my TCM and truck shifts way better now. They said it only would affect the tow haul mode but swear the truck shifts better all the way around. Anyway I think that hard shifting is what caused it to leak. When I say hard shifting I mean 20k pound trailer and feels like holy Jesus the transmission just left the conversation!
Very helpful. Great to listen to experience. I have oil dripping above the oil filter in the area of the what looks like the starter on a 2011 6.7 diesel. It looks like it runs down the bell housing seam and collects on top of the middle of the oil pan. Will a rear engine seal show signs of oil above the oil filter by the starter? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for the tips,Tips, the 6.7 upper oil pan leaks,I have a 2016 f250 6.7,I have had my pan replace 1 time had it off 4 times,now going for the 5th time,this time now out of my pocket @2260.$,Im just now ordering the 2011 oil pan,going to use the Ta-31 selant.Thanks KF.
I have replaced just as many upper oil pans leaks on 2011 as much as any other year models because the gaskets get rocked hard and leak. When it comes to using silicone for sealing I have always used the 7.3 silicone because it’s just the best.
I’ve done some too, but most of the time they have 250k+ miles on them before they start leaking. I most certainly agree on the silicone though. Ta-31 is the way to go.
Hate that there's no recall or TSB on this. Thanks for the tip on the 2011 pan, I'm on my 2nd failure (first was at 33,000 kms, now the 2nd at 148,000 kms). Thinking the culprit is the CCV filter? Do you happen to have the PN for the 2011 pan? Would you recommend re-sealing the front cover as well while Ford has the oil pan off?
Thanks for the tips Bro. I have a 2015 F550 6.7l that I have a lot of oil coming out of the top engine valley like if it was shooting out of the turbo.
Quick question I’m new to diesels and I have a new 22 6.7 ps and I was curious where the new box is located and is there any maintenance that needs to be done on it?
Great tips. I’ve already replaced the turbo on my 2018 with the new superseded part. CCV filter is next. I’ll take your advice & get the newer all in one part. Fingers crossed I don’t need to replace the upper pan, since i’d have to figure out which kid i’m gonna sell to afford it. Thanks for putting this together.
Hello Mayson, I have a 2019 F450 and I just had to have the Turbo replaced at 48,000 miles, The Tec mentioned that he saw some oil in the turbo housing ( I believe it was on the exhaust side) could this have been caused by a clogged crankcase filter?? Thanks Paul
Quick question, i saw your video about the CCV filter and tried to change mine. Its a 2017 but it looks like it has a sealed filter, you said it started in 2019. Is there any way a 2017 could have wound up with one of the sealed units?
My 2017 has never leaked a drop of anything. All original, over 125k on it, and the only thing it ever drops is water when the AC is on. In fact, my only fear is the CP4 failing before I can install the disaster prevention kit. With an EGR delete, I expect the engine to be solid for a million miles or more. If it does start leaking I will keep this tip in mind though, thanks.
You seriously think that your engine isn’t supposed to leak ever? Seals leak eventually between 100-200k and that’s how it is on all cars doesn’t matter.
@@AndrewKidd14145 Ah, somebody who doesn't do maintenance. I have had Harley's go over 200k without seal failure (Evo engines). Had a Dakota or two with no leaks over 150k. Had two 1995 Rangers with no leaks. One was a 2.3L I4, one was a 3.0 V6. The I4 had 363k wheb a guy hit and flipped me (rolled twice). The other had 312k when a 700cc quad fell out of a truck and hit it so hard it bent a frame rail. So yes, you CAN prevent leaks. The bigger thing here is that nowhere did I say an engine never leaks or that it won't given enough miles. You inferred that on your own.
@@GuretoSefirosu I’m a tech, rubber gaskets sweat what you do doesn’t matter. It will leak at the mileages I say. Data from millions of other cars say so. You got lucky on those cars and got the good ones.
@@AndrewKidd14145 The only vehicle I own that has EVER leaked, is my Harley. This is due to a bad design. They use a metal ball that, when oil pressure stops, seats and is supposed to prevent the flow of oil from the oil tank (up by the rear seat) into the crankcase. The thing is, if ANYTHING gets between the ball and seat, the crankcase fills and it starts leaking opil through the crankcase breather. I have thought about putting a 90deg "off" valve in the hose between the tank and crankcase, but it terrifies me to think I'd forget to open it and ride off... Also, I just checked my 6.7 above and below. No wet spots or anything. 135k. Going in for the oil/filter change soon. Maybe I am lucky, but I go way beyond filters and oil. I do engine and cabin air, spark plugs when I had gas engines, transfer case, transmission, differential fluids, brake fluid, coolant (both of them on this truck) at regular intervals. I also try to clean the engine and panels that cover it. Looks good and prevents excess heat. Oh, and I run the HECK out of my trucks. I have been 5,000mi in the past two months! Letting them sit is what I believe damages them more.
Why dose my 2012 have the baffle not the filter box if it’s the old version. I’ve owned the truck for 9 years. And how could I tell if I have the o ring pan for sure. What are the cut off dates for the mid years.
bad taste in the mouth doesn't come from the leaks. Bad taste in the mouth comes from not making stuff to prevent it and making it in a way that is so complicated and expensive to fix it. Leaking seam? 10 dollars for new silicone 2500 dollars to get to it and put it back together.
Thanks Fly. But that one problem I never had. Oil leaks. My problems We’re, 2011, 6.7 . Needed exhaust cooler replacement cost about 10,000.00 to fix. And my 2013, 6.7. Spun its main bearings at 28,000 miles. Ford wanted 25,000.00 dollars, for a generation 3, 6.7. So l traded both in for a 2022 f350 7.1, gas motor. And got a 2022 International CV, for my dump truck.
What production date would be an example of a late build 2019? My 2019 has the box without the bolts on top so I’ll assume that’s the good box? Would anything past 06/2019 be a late build 2019?
hey Thanks for all the tips I have a question On a 2011 6.7 I have a oil leak that look like its on the top rear of the engine but I can't see were it is any Idea
I just did my 2013 6.7 upper pan, but I don't have oil pressure. Confirmed no pressure sensor is fine, no oil movement into the filter. Was there a priming procedure I missed? I didn't have the correct engine hoist brackets, so I just rigged up something to hold it from the front case. Could that have damaged the oil pump?
Loctite 509 on every gasket job. No leaks guaranteed ! Hard to separate the parts if you ever need to if you put too much though ! Used on all high end cars .
Has anyone tried loctite 511 anaerobic flange sealant on the later pans without the oring seal? It seems to be a good alternative as excess doesn't harden eliminating the possibility of clogged oil passages or pump screens.
Change the CCV box that he talks about in this video. The 2019 number is FC3Z 6A785-F. That will get you the filter less CCV box Crank Case Vent box but I know it’s been updated to newer numbers since but at least that number will get you a filter less box. Or just change the filter in your box every time you do the fuel filters which should be done at least every 20k. Also start changing your oil at least every six months and use a good quality oil. I switched to Rotella T6 and it seems to be doing well. Also change your air filter frequently especially if you are driving in dusty conditions. Hope this helps.
Can’t go wrong with a rod. He’s been working on my truck for years now. 200k and going strong on my 6.7. Having him put a dCR on my truck in January! When my pan starts leaking (it’s a 14) probably going to take this advice and try to find the 11 pan.
Love my powerstoke but seriously considering getting rid if it because of this isse. 46k miles and it is in the shop right now for another warrantied upper oil pan. On top of that the dealer never wants to repair it because they say its not leaking bad enough. Makes you feel great to spend 65k on a truck and the dealer tell you its “weeping” and they only fix “leaks”!!
Yeah I get that. Most dealers are doing that because there are sooo many of them leaking right now it’s hard to keep up. Once resealed properly though it shouldn’t leak again!
Hey brother I just dropped off my 16’ for y’all to do this on. Since I’m paying for it can you please see about getting a 2011 pan for it? I’ll be happy to pay the up charge If you say it will fix it for good. This is the 4th re seal I’ve had but wanted to try y’all bc I know y’all are the best. I knew about the o ring pan on the earlier trucks but never knew it was possible to retrofit it. Thanks man
I have the original oil separator on my 2015 6.7. I don't have any pressure in system when opening oil cap but I do have a front or pan leak. Do I need to replace my original oil separator and if so can I replace it with the newer one. My dealer said my original doesn't have a filter in it either.
Is the CCV box / baffle change out doable without lifting the cab? My ‘17 6.7 leaks and I’m looking to get the pan done- thanks for these tips. At the same time I want to convert to the baffle - I saw your previous video and when I found the leak I changed the filter… still leaks. :(
So I just bought a new ccv box and hose today. I broke my old hose and have no idea if the box has ever been replaced. My question to you is, with these new updated boxes, how often do we change service/change them?
My problem is not with the upper pan, but I have oil in the valley. I did a CCV delete a couple of years ago. I ran the hose over the top of the master cylinder, down to the frame and back to the rear axel to avoid the stink from the fumes. Well, over time and not tying the hose up properly, it developed a sag acted like a P-trap in a sink. This last winter I acted stupid and idled it excessively in the cold weather. When I tried to get back on the road again, i got about fifteen miles and it looked like i was fogging for mosquitoes. When i pulled over, the tail pipe was coated with and dripping oil. On the way home it stopped smoking. But i found that i had gone through 2.5 quarts of oil. Thats when I discovered the blockage in the CCV bypass hose. I also pulled off the hot and cold side pipes (Pusher) and they were both very oily. That's when I discovered the oil in the valley. I cleaned out everything, topped off the oil and took it for a drive. It's been working fine but im still getting oil in the valley. Im gonna sop up all the oil, degrease it and use some dye to find the problem. My question is, is it possible for oil to get into the valley through where the fuel pump mounts?
I would love to get the new CCV box that doesn't need filter replacement. I have a 2017 f250 6.7 powerstroke. Do you have the part number for the new box or a specific name for the new box?
I have a 6-7 2011 I've changed the oil feed line cuz it seems like the oil is coming from the top down and it was leaking from there cuz it was making a pool in the valley and before the turbo sits I still have a leak and it's coming from the top also my crankcase filter does not unscrew it's completely sealed I had one mechanic tell me that it's probably that I have 221,000 mi on my 2011 6.7 powerstroke is there any thing you can tell me about the six seven that can help me out fixing my oil leak
There is several places oil could be leaking on the top of that engine. If it’s still pooling up in the valley you most likely have a leak from turbo area. Add some oil dye to it and retest with a black light.
216,000 miles on my 2011 f250. Doesn’t leak or use a drop of oil between changes. I don’t like the plastic drain plug but change to a new one with every oil change. Does the new style CCV Box need changing every 50k or is it permanent?
Help! You mentioned in one of your previous oil leak videos that the 2011 - 2016 powerstrokes (I have a 2015 F350 V8 6.7L 4WD DRW) had a crankcase with no filter but that it could still pressure up? Was hoping this video would talk about that a little bit. I have small oil leaks, but like you said, I don't want to fix the leaks without first determining any issues regarding the crankcase. Can you write any recommendations regarding how I can determine if the crank case is the issue in my example and if it is, do I just replace it (I think i remember you saying it was sealed or something)? Any assistance is appreciated.
You can check your crankcase pressure by pulling the oil cap with the engine running. It shouldn’t have much pressure. A lot of the time the separator will become swole on the top when it becomes clogged.
Big thing here is if you want to avoid big oil leak is to check your crankcase oil separator. Easily done by removing your oil filler cap while engine is idling. If you have pressure (lots of vapor coming out ) and the cap comes up without you pulling it off, then its time to replace it! .....been Ford diesel tech since 1987... need chiropractor!!
Do you see any common issues with the ccv delete? I currently have the updated box but in order to install a full piping kit the ccv needs to be gone since the return line will no longer exist.
I have a 18 king ranch and it have an oil leak in the front of the engine and found the vacuum pump leaking and found the bolts backed out. Have you ever had that happen before?
my 2017 came with sealed box...small leak for a while and now finding out that it is $$ repair...the thing is I do not feel any pressure at the oil fill and was wondering if my sealed CCV needs replacing...if you have a leak due to the CCV box shouldnt you be able to detect pressure by putting you hand over the oil fill tube?..
Front crank seal is a small job compared to having the front cover or upper pan resealed. If that is what’s causing your leak it should be a few hour repair for any shop. I will say though it’s most likely leaking from the vacuum pump mounted right above the crank pulley. The bolts are notorious for backing out causing it to leak. Most of the time you can just tighten them up to stop it.
So does the new crankcase “filter” need to be replaced every so often or is it a lifetime thing that never clogs or wears out. I was thinking about a ccv reroute because of the filters getting clogged but maybe if I just switch boxes I won’t have to. What are your thoughts about a ccv reroute. Does it hurt the turbo or engine in anyway ?
I have a 2012 6.7 powerstroke that’s mysteriously leaking oil. Doesn’t become noticeable or drops oil level. But just enough to notice. Already replaced CCV and did oil change. Cleaned the bottom with engine degreaser see if it’s still happening. Seems like it is. Only on long drives tho
Thanks for the information on the 6.7 I have a 2015 6.7 powerstroke will the new style crank case ventilation box fit on my 2015 6.7 F250 Thanks and I subscribed to your channel keep doing what you're doing
Thanks for the tip on using the 2011 oil pan part. My Jan./2019 build has the non serviceable CCV box. Is there still a recommended replacement interval for this style CCV box? Have you found them to still clog up around a certain mileage?
I haven’t seen any without the filter clog. Once you have the updated box, you shouldn’t have to do anything else. That box will last the life of the vehicle.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Trying to clear up the mud in my mind: if the CCV box does not have bolts to take the box apart, this is the non-filter version, right? Mine is a 2017 build without bolts on the CCV box.
Did Ford do a update for the old trucks for the CV filter? I looked and our 2016 doesn't have bolts. Looks like a sealed unit. But we got the truck 2020 with 21k and we didn't have the dealer do anything to it. Unless the prior owner did but at 21k unless he had an issue or one of the service trips they just did it for him. Idk
Thanks for the Video! I’m going to Finally do upper oil pan on my 6.7 2014. Which has 200k. My question is Where exactly am I using silicone T-31? Am I using it all around the perimeter on top of the pressed In gasket or specific spots. Yes I’m planning to trash this 2014 oil pan and follow your advice and buy 2011 with pressed gasket. Do u have another video on this in detail? Much Thanks 🙏🏾
Need advise on the oil filter housing, it look like I have a leak where it the housing mounts to the block. There is a leak around it, and I found a bolt very lose, what can I expect by removing the four 8 mm bolt and replace the gasket. Please advise 🙏
It’s super easy to replace that gasket, however there is 4 bolts, and 1 stud with has the starter wiring harness mounted to it. You’ll need to remove that to get it off.
Mayson, I have watched all your videos having to do with oil leaks on the 6.7l. Very knowledgeable. I was wondering if you offer advice/information for a fee. I have a 2017 f350 6.7 dually that i discovered an oil leak on two weeks ago while i was going to change the oil. I watched your video and immediately changed my CC filter. You were absolutely right… CLOGGED. My issue is I’m still spotting oil on the bottom of my driver side head afterwards. I know you said that if the filter clogged pressure will cause a leak elsewhere. I’m very picky about my truck, i am hard headed about taking it to a dealer for service. I do everything myself including mounting tires, filters, oil change, etc. i would like to chat with you about this issue I’m having because honestly it’s giving me sleepless nights because i do not want my motor taken apart. Please reply to my email with a cashapp/Zelle and if you have a free minute and you could receive a phone call i would greatly appreciate it.
Did you ever figure out what was causing the leak on the drivers side head? I have the same condition, mines a 2016. Its not leaking real bad or anything, but its "wet". The passenger side is nice and dry. Its been like that a couple years now. Never had oil level issues or anything, just the bottom of that head has a thin coating of oil, that makes it look wet.
I need to know about a 2014 6.7 upper oil pan,this pan has a Silicon gasket all the way around the sealing surface,,is this what I need to stop my leaks,my trk is a 2016,and my pan has been off 4 times,each time I have gotten aprox.10,000 m between leaks, I do plan on using the TA 37 sealer.My trk.now has 106,000 miles.How will this 2014 pan work out for me,or do I need to look for the 2011 pan?
I'm looking at purchasing a 6.7 2017 f550 dump 133k. It's leaking. If you replace the ccv will this stop the leak or do you have to reseal the front cover and oil pan? Or will it just leak alot slower?
If the crankcase filter is clogged, changing that will drastically slow the leak. It usually won’t completely stop. I’ve had several customers out of warranty that I replaced the crankcase filter and they never came back. I’m sure it still leaks, just not that noticeable.
My 2017 got lemon lawed in 2021 because of 3 failed attempts to repair. Last time I picked it up and was merging on the freeway my drive shaft came apart at the trans, damn near killed me.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Why is it that Ford, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, do not issue recall's for these obvious mistakes in design and engineering?! Customers pay $90k for a truck and have to put up with this?! Great channel and appreciate the info from you and AROD!! Sad that it is necessary...
It’s all a money racket. Thanks man!
Well, who's going to stop them? Definitely not any politicians, and people keep buying them.
ummm ...... money
what they said, money, and recalls are also mainly for something that can get you seriously hurt like an air bag recall or seatbelt recall, so if your truck is leaking oil ford's gonna think "well that's not gonna kill you" and theyre not gonna spend the extra money on that kinda recall, companies are only gonna recall something that will put them in a lawsuit
Because service by far makes more money than sales.
I have had my 17 F250 6.7 for 11 days. Just found oil leaking from the engine or lower oil pan. Thankfully the truck came with a 100,000 mile warranty or I’d be out a few thousand.
I'm new to diesels and the 6.7. learning lots about diesels and your videos are great. thanks man.
Thank you!!!
You work at a dealer?
@@FlyingWrenches13 No Sir, I drive commercially hauling campers all over the US. I currently have a '19 F250 6.7 Powerstroke. Love it, but starting to look at the 450s!
What a great channel this is. I have a 2016 450 and it has just developed a leak. A small one. It isn't even dripping on the ground yet. I only knew about it because my dog chased a cat under it and came out with an oil slick on his shoulders. I haven't discovered where it's leaking yet, but now I have a few ideas of where to look. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and support!! Hope you had a merry Christmas
As a tech, it doesn't matter what I'm working on. I only use Toyota's FIPG or "The Right Stuff" by permatex (who I think might have copied the Toyota formula.) Both are so good that they will seal well even if the surfaces are somewhat dirty, oily, etc. The Toyota sealer is way expensive and not nearly as readily available, so in recent years, I've primarily used "The Right Stuff" in the small caulking gun compatible size.
You're 100% right. the Toyota FIPG is the best. You will have dirty fingers for a week tho!!!!
Once I discovered the right stuff in the early 2000s, that's all I use on anything that I really need to be sealed well. No regrets
Exactly, it works because it’s urethane, not silicone.
The right stuff black, from what I understand, is the loctite 5900, same as ta357.
BRO!!! killller thank you, thats awesome
Haha just telling the truth. Thanks man!
Subbed to both. Awesome videos. Check out my 15 PowerStroke
@@FlyingWrenches13 does this apply to a 6.2l gas f350
I wish I would have seen your channel a year ago. I made the mistake of trading my perfectly good 2002 F250 7.3L Powerstroke for a new 2016 F350 6.7L Powerstroke. Then last summer it started leaking oil substantially. The local Ford dealer initially diagnosed the issue as a leaking vacuum pump assembly. After teo months of waiting for parts, they made the repair and the day I drove it home, the leak was worse than it had ever been. Oil running everywhere after the 6 mile drive home. Puddles of oil, not just drips. After returning to the dealership, they then said it was the front cover leaking. The two repairs cost me over $4,000 and the truck was five months out of warranty. It only had 65,000 miles on it. Ford would not contribute one single cent to helping with this repair cost. Have been a Ford truck guy since 1973 but this is the last Ford I'll ever own.
I appreciate all your excellent advice, wish I would have seen it sooner!
Awesome video, I have a 2017 and looks like they must have went back to the gasket!
I have a 2017 F250 with a bad oil leak,most shops in my area don’t guarantee fixing the oil leak.
Thanks for your 3 tips.
Did you fix the leak yet? I’m having the same issue
I did a video on my channel replacing the lower oil pan on a 2015 Powerstroke. It’s crazy how many of these trucks we work on and you wonder why they did not get it right in the first place! Nice video man!
How in the heck do you have fewer than 6k subs!?! You give amazing advice and info to Ford guys. I'm a Ram guy, but respect your mechanical acumen. #subbed!
Thank you!!!
Fabulous content! I am a private mechanic and do my share of 6.7L PS maintenance/ repairs.
I had leak at the vacuum pump, the bolts backed out. Put a new seal in with some locktite and she's good. I know it's a common problem and I actually saw it on UA-cam, couldn't have been one of PTT AROD'S videos as well. 👍
I am subscribed to this brother's channel because his expert. And bean doing this for a time and times.
Dude, you have a great channel. Can’t believe you don’t have more subscribers.
Thank you! Tell UA-cam’s algorithm that hahaha
I will agree, I think the RTV with high crankcase pressures is asking for trouble. Somebody has said they went back to a gasket with the 2021s? Haven't confirmed with the manual yet.
It’s a press style gasket on the 21 upper pans, which I loved when I first seen them. Butttt they siliconed the front cover 🤦🏼♂️ it’s like they just want the engine to leak haha
I have the non filter ccv on my 18'. I have 115k on it and no pressure from the oil fill cap. Should I still change the ccv? Is there a different service interval for these as opposed to the filter tyep? Should i change it regardless to prevent an oil leak or keep going and keep checking for pressure?
Thanks!
I had the same concern. When I was at about 110k a popular guy told me no pressure, it's fine. A friend of mine is in charge of 900+ trucks for ComEd and he told me I should change it asap. He recommended even if there is no pressure to change it no later than 100k miles. At 150k I had no leaks and no pressure. At my 150k oil change I used Hot Shot secrets stiction eliminator and my truck was making a weird noise and while trying to locate the noise I notice it had developed an upper pan seep. I changed the vent right away. It spilled a bunch of oil while removing it. I am not sure if that is normal with a good vent or only when it is done doing it's job. My recommendation would be to change it. I am not sure if the stiction remover caused the leak/seep or if it was the vent. Next time I will change mine before 100k to be safe. Good luck.
Very helpful videos! My '17 f250 just recently started leaking oil. Thanks man! Now I have a place to look before dropping it off to the dealer
Thank you!
Great idea on the upper pan. I remember PTT filming that RTV video in my driveway 🤣. I agree with PTT that needed to be said. I was told day one at the dealership never use black rtv on diesels. I always had a tube of gray in my gun.
Thanks! Haha yeah I think it holds up a lot better!
I know this is a older video but my 22 with 33k miles is in the shop with a oil leak. I was changing my oil and found a leak on the engine above the filter. They just confirmed rear main seal leak, no excessive crank case pressure. Was have extremely hard down shift is tow haul from 3-2 and 2-1. After a few times in and they heard me say tow haul then they figured out about a TSB for exactly that. Reprogrammed my TCM and truck shifts way better now. They said it only would affect the tow haul mode but swear the truck shifts better all the way around. Anyway I think that hard shifting is what caused it to leak. When I say hard shifting I mean 20k pound trailer and feels like holy Jesus the transmission just left the conversation!
Very helpful. Great to listen to experience.
I have oil dripping above the oil filter in the area of the what looks like the starter on a 2011 6.7 diesel. It looks like it runs down the bell housing seam and collects on top of the middle of the oil pan.
Will a rear engine seal show signs of oil above the oil filter by the starter?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for the tips,Tips, the 6.7 upper oil pan leaks,I have a 2016 f250 6.7,I have had my pan replace 1 time had it off 4 times,now going for the 5th time,this time now out of my pocket @2260.$,Im just now ordering the 2011 oil pan,going to use the Ta-31 selant.Thanks KF.
I have replaced just as many upper oil pans leaks on 2011 as much as any other year models because the gaskets get rocked hard and leak. When it comes to using silicone for sealing I have always used the 7.3 silicone because it’s just the best.
I’ve done some too, but most of the time they have 250k+ miles on them before they start leaking. I most certainly agree on the silicone though. Ta-31 is the way to go.
Hate that there's no recall or TSB on this. Thanks for the tip on the 2011 pan, I'm on my 2nd failure (first was at 33,000 kms, now the 2nd at 148,000 kms). Thinking the culprit is the CCV filter? Do you happen to have the PN for the 2011 pan? Would you recommend re-sealing the front cover as well while Ford has the oil pan off?
Thanks for the tips Bro. I have a 2015 F550 6.7l that I have a lot of oil coming out of the top engine valley like if it was shooting out of the turbo.
Quick question I’m new to diesels and I have a new 22 6.7 ps and I was curious where the new box is located and is there any maintenance that needs to be done on it?
Great tips. I’ve already replaced the turbo on my 2018 with the new superseded part. CCV filter is next. I’ll take your advice & get the newer all in one part. Fingers crossed I don’t need to replace the upper pan, since i’d have to figure out which kid i’m gonna sell to afford it. Thanks for putting this together.
Just delete the CCV all together. The block off kit is like $50 and comes with a vent hose. Never have another issue guaranteed.
You Are Right About using the CORRECT silicone on disel engs
Hello Mayson, I have a 2019 F450 and I just had to have the Turbo replaced at 48,000 miles, The Tec mentioned that he saw some oil in the turbo housing ( I believe it was on the exhaust side) could this have been caused by a clogged crankcase filter?? Thanks Paul
That old 7.3L Silicone is AMAZING Stuff.
Best, toughest Silicone made!!!
Great video and awesome info!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
Quick question, i saw your video about the CCV filter and tried to change mine.
Its a 2017 but it looks like it has a sealed filter, you said it started in 2019.
Is there any way a 2017 could have wound up with one of the sealed units?
My 2017 has never leaked a drop of anything. All original, over 125k on it, and the only thing it ever drops is water when the AC is on. In fact, my only fear is the CP4 failing before I can install the disaster prevention kit. With an EGR delete, I expect the engine to be solid for a million miles or more. If it does start leaking I will keep this tip in mind though, thanks.
You seriously think that your engine isn’t supposed to leak ever? Seals leak eventually between 100-200k and that’s how it is on all cars doesn’t matter.
@@AndrewKidd14145 Ah, somebody who doesn't do maintenance. I have had Harley's go over 200k without seal failure (Evo engines). Had a Dakota or two with no leaks over 150k. Had two 1995 Rangers with no leaks. One was a 2.3L I4, one was a 3.0 V6. The I4 had 363k wheb a guy hit and flipped me (rolled twice). The other had 312k when a 700cc quad fell out of a truck and hit it so hard it bent a frame rail.
So yes, you CAN prevent leaks. The bigger thing here is that nowhere did I say an engine never leaks or that it won't given enough miles. You inferred that on your own.
@@GuretoSefirosu I’m a tech, rubber gaskets sweat what you do doesn’t matter. It will leak at the mileages I say. Data from millions of other cars say so.
You got lucky on those cars and got the good ones.
@@AndrewKidd14145 The only vehicle I own that has EVER leaked, is my Harley. This is due to a bad design. They use a metal ball that, when oil pressure stops, seats and is supposed to prevent the flow of oil from the oil tank (up by the rear seat) into the crankcase. The thing is, if ANYTHING gets between the ball and seat, the crankcase fills and it starts leaking opil through the crankcase breather. I have thought about putting a 90deg "off" valve in the hose between the tank and crankcase, but it terrifies me to think I'd forget to open it and ride off...
Also, I just checked my 6.7 above and below. No wet spots or anything. 135k. Going in for the oil/filter change soon. Maybe I am lucky, but I go way beyond filters and oil. I do engine and cabin air, spark plugs when I had gas engines, transfer case, transmission, differential fluids, brake fluid, coolant (both of them on this truck) at regular intervals. I also try to clean the engine and panels that cover it. Looks good and prevents excess heat. Oh, and I run the HECK out of my trucks. I have been 5,000mi in the past two months! Letting them sit is what I believe damages them more.
@@GuretoSefirosu you’re a good owner!
Why dose my 2012 have the baffle not the filter box if it’s the old version. I’ve owned the truck for 9 years. And how could I tell if I have the o ring pan for sure. What are the cut off dates for the mid years.
I have a 21 250, with the ccv is there a filter I have to service or is it something is dont have to worry about
Love your videos! You never mention at what mileage intervals (generally) do these oil leaks begin to appear ? Thanks
bad taste in the mouth doesn't come from the leaks. Bad taste in the mouth comes from not making stuff to prevent it and making it in a way that is so complicated and expensive to fix it. Leaking seam? 10 dollars for new silicone 2500 dollars to get to it and put it back together.
Thanks Fly. But that one problem I never had. Oil leaks. My problems
We’re, 2011, 6.7 . Needed exhaust cooler replacement cost about
10,000.00 to fix. And my 2013, 6.7.
Spun its main bearings at 28,000 miles. Ford wanted 25,000.00 dollars, for a generation 3, 6.7.
So l traded both in for a 2022 f350
7.1, gas motor. And got a 2022
International CV, for my dump truck.
Great video! Yeah the new style 2020 CCV box is empty. I took mine apart and looked inside. A neat piece of engineering.
Thank you!
What’s the part number?
What production date would be an example of a late build 2019? My 2019 has the box without the bolts on top so I’ll assume that’s the good box? Would anything past 06/2019 be a late build 2019?
Just came across your channel. Great videos simple short and to the point! Great work keep them up. Thinking about getting me a 6.7 my self 13 model
With the education of experience.
I recommend. Don’t do it.
Stay with gas motor. If you are buy a ford truck.
@@garylong7096 I never buying another diesel. Too many problems and Ford will not correct them.
hey Thanks for all the tips I have a question On a 2011 6.7 I have a oil leak that look like its on the top rear of the engine but I can't see were it is any Idea
I just did my 2013 6.7 upper pan, but I don't have oil pressure. Confirmed no pressure sensor is fine, no oil movement into the filter. Was there a priming procedure I missed? I didn't have the correct engine hoist brackets, so I just rigged up something to hold it from the front case. Could that have damaged the oil pump?
Loctite 509 on every gasket job. No leaks guaranteed ! Hard to separate the parts if you ever need to if you put too much though ! Used on all high end cars .
Has anyone tried loctite 511 anaerobic flange sealant on the later pans without the oring seal? It seems to be a good alternative as excess doesn't harden eliminating the possibility of clogged oil passages or pump screens.
Is the early ccv box prior to 17 without filter the same as the 20 box without the filter? Or better baffles in the late one?
2016 350 constantly hot oil smell. Had he upper and lower pan changed 2 weeks later same thing !
Change the CCV box that he talks about in this video. The 2019 number is FC3Z 6A785-F. That will get you the filter less CCV box Crank Case Vent box but I know it’s been updated to newer numbers since but at least that number will get you a filter less box. Or just change the filter in your box every time you do the fuel filters which should be done at least every 20k. Also start changing your oil at least every six months and use a good quality oil. I switched to Rotella T6 and it seems to be doing well. Also change your air filter frequently especially if you are driving in dusty conditions. Hope this helps.
Can’t go wrong with a rod. He’s been working on my truck for years now. 200k and going strong on my 6.7. Having him put a dCR on my truck in January!
When my pan starts leaking (it’s a 14) probably going to take this advice and try to find the 11 pan.
Where is Aarod based out of.?
@@deucenine4life813arod is in detroit michigan area. he’s worth the drive, especially for a big job. if you want an intro lmk
Love my powerstoke but seriously considering getting rid if it because of this isse. 46k miles and it is in the shop right now for another warrantied upper oil pan. On top of that the dealer never wants to repair it because they say its not leaking bad enough. Makes you feel great to spend 65k on a truck and the dealer tell you its “weeping” and they only fix “leaks”!!
Yeah I get that. Most dealers are doing that because there are sooo many of them leaking right now it’s hard to keep up. Once resealed properly though it shouldn’t leak again!
Hey brother I just dropped off my 16’ for y’all to do this on. Since I’m paying for it can you please see about getting a 2011 pan for it? I’ll be happy to pay the up charge If you say it will fix it for good. This is the 4th re seal I’ve had but wanted to try y’all bc I know y’all are the best. I knew about the o ring pan on the earlier trucks but never knew it was possible to retrofit it. Thanks man
I have the original oil separator on my 2015 6.7. I don't have any pressure in system when opening oil cap but I do have a front or pan leak. Do I need to replace my original oil separator and if so can I replace it with the newer one. My dealer said my original doesn't have a filter in it either.
Is the CCV box / baffle change out doable without lifting the cab? My ‘17 6.7 leaks and I’m looking to get the pan done- thanks for these tips. At the same time I want to convert to the baffle - I saw your previous video and when I found the leak I changed the filter… still leaks. :(
Question if I need to get my truck diagnosed can a take it to ford and they diagnose every oil doing the diagnostics
So I just bought a new ccv box and hose today. I broke my old hose and have no idea if the box has ever been replaced. My question to you is, with these new updated boxes, how often do we change service/change them?
Do you have part numbers and do you have to remove the engine to do an oil pan replacement?
My problem is not with the upper pan, but I have oil in the valley. I did a CCV delete a couple of years ago. I ran the hose over the top of the master cylinder, down to the frame and back to the rear axel to avoid the stink from the fumes. Well, over time and not tying the hose up properly, it developed a sag acted like a P-trap in a sink. This last winter I acted stupid and idled it excessively in the cold weather. When I tried to get back on the road again, i got about fifteen miles and it looked like i was fogging for mosquitoes. When i pulled over, the tail pipe was coated with and dripping oil. On the way home it stopped smoking. But i found that i had gone through 2.5 quarts of oil. Thats when I discovered the blockage in the CCV bypass hose. I also pulled off the hot and cold side pipes (Pusher) and they were both very oily. That's when I discovered the oil in the valley. I cleaned out everything, topped off the oil and took it for a drive. It's been working fine but im still getting oil in the valley. Im gonna sop up all the oil, degrease it and use some dye to find the problem. My question is, is it possible for oil to get into the valley through where the fuel pump mounts?
Ever solve this?
Yeah. I quit idling it in cold weather. Problem cured itself.
I have a 2012 that was built in 01/12 is it safe to say I have the upper oil pan with the built in gasket?
Thanks. I have this leak issue and will upgrade my 2017.
I would love to get the new CCV box that doesn't need filter replacement. I have a 2017 f250 6.7 powerstroke. Do you have the part number for the new box or a specific name for the new box?
FC3Z-6A785-F
You might consider a zoom with ARod on his weekly podcast, more experience the better for all who follow. Great vid
Thank you! I was on there a few months ago. Will probably be back in the future.
Where can I get one of those metal prep wipes? Do you have a part number?
Does that upgraded ccv box need to be replaced at some point or not?
Thanks for another 6.7 video I like my early 12 a little more
Whoa good tip. If someone were to get rid of the ccv, would that hurt the turbo in anyway?
I have a 6-7 2011 I've changed the oil feed line cuz it seems like the oil is coming from the top down and it was leaking from there cuz it was making a pool in the valley and before the turbo sits I still have a leak and it's coming from the top also my crankcase filter does not unscrew it's completely sealed I had one mechanic tell me that it's probably that I have 221,000 mi on my 2011 6.7 powerstroke is there any thing you can tell me about the six seven that can help me out fixing my oil leak
There is several places oil could be leaking on the top of that engine. If it’s still pooling up in the valley you most likely have a leak from turbo area. Add some oil dye to it and retest with a black light.
216,000 miles on my 2011 f250. Doesn’t leak or use a drop of oil between changes. I don’t like the plastic drain plug but change to a new one with every oil change. Does the new style CCV Box need changing every 50k or is it permanent?
Thanks for the information! Glad I found you, bro! Do you have the part number for the CCV upgrade? Will it fit in my 2014 F350 ?
Thanks! 14 model already has one without a filter.
Help! You mentioned in one of your previous oil leak videos that the 2011 - 2016 powerstrokes (I have a 2015 F350 V8 6.7L 4WD DRW) had a crankcase with no filter but that it could still pressure up? Was hoping this video would talk about that a little bit. I have small oil leaks, but like you said, I don't want to fix the leaks without first determining any issues regarding the crankcase. Can you write any recommendations regarding how I can determine if the crank case is the issue in my example and if it is, do I just replace it (I think i remember you saying it was sealed or something)? Any assistance is appreciated.
You can check your crankcase pressure by pulling the oil cap with the engine running. It shouldn’t have much pressure. A lot of the time the separator will become swole on the top when it becomes clogged.
When you do a delete on a 19’F-350 is it good to delete the crankcase filter?
I have a 2021 f250 super duty diesel are you saying the 2011 will fit the 2021?
Big thing here is if you want to avoid big oil leak is to check your crankcase oil separator. Easily done by removing your oil filler cap while engine is idling. If you have pressure (lots of vapor coming out ) and the cap comes up without you pulling it off, then its time to replace it! .....been Ford diesel tech since 1987... need chiropractor!!
Do you see any common issues with the ccv delete? I currently have the updated box but in order to install a full piping kit the ccv needs to be gone since the return line will no longer exist.
Zero issues, only positives. Get rid of it. If you have the sensor on the tube, keep it plugged in.
I have a 2017 F350 DRW. I believe the 2020 upgraded non-filter oil separator part number is PC3Z6A785A. Is this correct?
does the oil pan replacement trick work on a 2014 f250 powerstroke turbo diesel
I have a 18 king ranch and it have an oil leak in the front of the engine and found the vacuum pump leaking and found the bolts backed out. Have you ever had that happen before?
my 2017 came with sealed box...small leak for a while and now finding out that it is $$ repair...the thing is I do not feel any pressure at the oil fill and was wondering if my sealed CCV needs replacing...if you have a leak due to the CCV box shouldnt you be able to detect pressure by putting you hand over the oil fill tube?..
Can I do this on a 2015 6.7. I have oil leaks on the front side. Was told it is the front main leaking. Help please.
Front crank seal is a small job compared to having the front cover or upper pan resealed. If that is what’s causing your leak it should be a few hour repair for any shop. I will say though it’s most likely leaking from the vacuum pump mounted right above the crank pulley. The bolts are notorious for backing out causing it to leak. Most of the time you can just tighten them up to stop it.
So does the new crankcase “filter” need to be replaced every so often or is it a lifetime thing that never clogs or wears out. I was thinking about a ccv reroute because of the filters getting clogged but maybe if I just switch boxes I won’t have to. What are your thoughts about a ccv reroute. Does it hurt the turbo or engine in anyway ?
Ccv reroute is the way to go honestly but swapping out the box for the one without a filter will keep you from having to worry about it also.
Have the addressed this on the newer model 6.7’s?
Can I used the 2011 oil pan on a 2018 6.7
I have a 2012 6.7 powerstroke that’s mysteriously leaking oil. Doesn’t become noticeable or drops oil level. But just enough to notice. Already replaced CCV and did oil change. Cleaned the bottom with engine degreaser see if it’s still happening. Seems like it is. Only on long drives tho
Thanks for the information on the 6.7 I have a 2015 6.7 powerstroke will the new style crank case ventilation box fit on my 2015 6.7 F250 Thanks and I subscribed to your channel keep doing what you're doing
Good stuff buddy!
Does my 2015 F450 CC have a crankcase filter..? I know it doesn't have a Cabin Air Filter..
ThanX..
Thanks for the tip on using the 2011 oil pan part. My Jan./2019 build has the non serviceable CCV box. Is there still a recommended replacement interval for this style CCV box? Have you found them to still clog up around a certain mileage?
I haven’t seen any without the filter clog. Once you have the updated box, you shouldn’t have to do anything else. That box will last the life of the vehicle.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Trying to clear up the mud in my mind: if the CCV box does not have bolts to take the box apart, this is the non-filter version, right? Mine is a 2017 build without bolts on the CCV box.
@@claytonl4628 if it doesn’t have bolts then it is the non serviceable one.
@@FlyingWrenches13 thank you!
Will a 2011 pan work on my 2017 6.7
Good video. Very informative
Did Ford do a update for the old trucks for the CV filter? I looked and our 2016 doesn't have bolts. Looks like a sealed unit. But we got the truck 2020 with 21k and we didn't have the dealer do anything to it. Unless the prior owner did but at 21k unless he had an issue or one of the service trips they just did it for him. Idk
Great video. Thank you buddy
What are your thoughts on Right Stuff RTV?
Thanks for the Video! I’m going to Finally do upper oil pan on my 6.7 2014. Which has 200k.
My question is Where exactly am I using silicone T-31?
Am I using it all around the perimeter on top of the pressed In gasket or specific spots.
Yes I’m planning to trash this 2014 oil pan and follow your advice and buy 2011 with pressed gasket.
Do u have another video on this in detail?
Much Thanks 🙏🏾
Only need to apply silicone to the places where more than 2 pieces of metal seal. Where the front cover and rear cover meet the block.
Need advise on the oil filter housing, it look like I have a leak where it the housing mounts to the block. There is a leak around it, and I found a bolt very lose, what can I expect by removing the four 8 mm bolt and replace the gasket. Please advise 🙏
It’s super easy to replace that gasket, however there is 4 bolts, and 1 stud with has the starter wiring harness mounted to it. You’ll need to remove that to get it off.
@@FlyingWrenches13 thank you I found it about 3 am got it fix can't thank you enough
Mayson,
I have watched all your videos having to do with oil leaks on the 6.7l. Very knowledgeable. I was wondering if you offer advice/information for a fee. I have a 2017 f350 6.7 dually that i discovered an oil leak on two weeks ago while i was going to change the oil. I watched your video and immediately changed my CC filter. You were absolutely right… CLOGGED. My issue is I’m still spotting oil on the bottom of my driver side head afterwards. I know you said that if the filter clogged pressure will cause a leak elsewhere. I’m very picky about my truck, i am hard headed about taking it to a dealer for service. I do everything myself including mounting tires, filters, oil change, etc.
i would like to chat with you about this issue I’m having because honestly it’s giving me sleepless nights because i do not want my motor taken apart.
Please reply to my email with a cashapp/Zelle and if you have a free minute and you could receive a phone call i would greatly appreciate it.
Did you ever figure out what was causing the leak on the drivers side head?
I have the same condition, mines a 2016.
Its not leaking real bad or anything, but its "wet". The passenger side is nice and dry. Its been like that a couple years now. Never had oil level issues or anything, just the bottom of that head has a thin coating of oil, that makes it look wet.
I need to know about a 2014 6.7 upper oil pan,this pan has a Silicon gasket all the way around the sealing surface,,is this what I need to stop my leaks,my trk is a 2016,and my pan has been off 4 times,each time I have gotten aprox.10,000 m between leaks, I do plan on using the TA 37 sealer.My trk.now has 106,000 miles.How will this 2014 pan work out for me,or do I need to look for the 2011 pan?
You should be able to use a 2011-2012 pan so that you won’t have to use silicone again.
My 2016 f250 was dripping oil from the valley is been 5 days and is not oil around, and another thing was the dealer overfilled with oil
I'm looking at purchasing a 6.7 2017 f550 dump 133k. It's leaking. If you replace the ccv will this stop the leak or do you have to reseal the front cover and oil pan? Or will it just leak alot slower?
If the crankcase filter is clogged, changing that will drastically slow the leak. It usually won’t completely stop. I’ve had several customers out of warranty that I replaced the crankcase filter and they never came back. I’m sure it still leaks, just not that noticeable.
Might be a long shot but do you know of a repetitible mechanic in the Texarkana area that? Could fix my 20? 16? F250 upper oil Pan leak?
I have a 2019 and I'm getting my oil pain replaced with a 2011 pain what else should I be doing HELP ..
My 2017 got lemon lawed in 2021 because of 3 failed attempts to repair. Last time I picked it up and was merging on the freeway my drive shaft came apart at the trans, damn near killed me.