SEAS King RO4Y MKIII Speaker Build By Von Hertzog at The Social Club - Undisputed KING of DIY Kits
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- Follow Von Hertzog step-by-step as he builds out the SEAS King RO4Y MKIII speaker kit in The Social Club.
FINALLY an in-depth video taking you step-by-step through building the reigning King of all DIY kits, the SEAS King RO4Y MKIII 3-Way Active Speaker Kit. This thing is an absolute game changer. A 10 inch SEAS Extreme 4 ohm aluminum cone subwoofer being fed 250W RMS of clean power from the ncore modules in the state-of-the-art hypex Fusion Amp. With DSP correction and a 32-bit AKM DAC, this kit propels you into the stratosphere of Hifi. The 7 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter are both made of lacquered aluminum/magnesium contained in one concentric coaxial. These point-source drivers offer holographic imaging and a sweet spot big enough to drive a bus through. These are my brand new studio monitors and I do not see them being dethroned. LONG LIVE THE KING!
One of the design goals of this system is to make the enclosure as small as possible. Since the target group is the DIY enthusiasts the design also required reasonable simplicity.
These links will help you collect all the different files you must download.
PDF of the build plans from SEAS
www.seas.no/images/stories/diy...
PDFassembly guide from SEAS
www.seas.no/images/stories/diy...
DSP files for the kit from SEAS
www.seas.no/images/stories/diy...
Hypex FA.253 Amp File Downloads
www.hypex.nl/products/amplifi...
Hypex FA.503 Amp File Downloads
www.hypex.nl/products/amplifi...
Buy the kit from Madisound
www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...
00:00:00 Intro
00:01:01 Preamble
00:01:21 Kit Introduction
00:02:02 Amplifier Inputs
00:02:32 Full Hifi Setup in One
00:03:30 Compete with $10k & $15k speakers
00:03:55 Amphion Comp
00:04:50 Ex Machina Comp
00:04:59 SEAS in Norway
00:05:48 My Ex Machina Visit
00:06:30 Amphion One25A
00:07:09 Let me walk you thru the steps
00:08:09 My Comfort Zone
00:08:42 The DIY Spirit
00:09:32 Kit Component Break Down
00:12:06 Step 1 Download Guides & DSP Files
00:13:17 Step 2 Measure & Mark Wood for Cuts
00:13:42 Step 3 Cut The Wood with Table Saw
00:18:37 Step 4 Test Cabinet Roll Up & Mark Rebates for Cuts
00:20:19 Step 5 Cut Rebates
00:22:50 Step 6 Cut Driver Recesses & Holes with Router and Circle Jig
00:26:21 Step 7 Cut Amp Recesses & Holes with Straight Edge
00:30:14 Step 8 **OPTIONAL** Madisound Accessories Package
00:31:18 Step 9 **OPTIONAL** Butyl Sound Deadening Mat
00:37:46 Step 10 Gluing and Clamping Amp Panels
00:39:53 Step 11 Drilling Holes for Wiring
00:41:16 Step 12 Silicone Sealing the Amp Panels
00:42:29 Step 13 Tape up Cabinets for Roll Up
00:44:42 Step 14 Chiseling Rebates
00:46:19 Step 15 Gluing Amp Panels into Bottom
00:47:25 Step 16 Gluing Up the Cabinet
00:50:04 Step 17 Glue Divider Brace
00:50:48 Step 18 Install Divider Brace
00:51:14 Step 19 Applying Corner Clamps
00:53:00 Step 20 Glue up and Install Top Panel
00:54:37 Step 21 Apply Vertical Braces to Top & Bottom
00:56:14 Step 22 **OPTIONAL** Install Screws into Cabinet
01:00:03 Step 23 Wood Putty
01:02:58 Step 24 **OPTIONAL** Silicone Seal Inside Seams
01:04:05 Step 25 Sanding Cabinets
01:06:41 Step 26 Wool Felt Installation
01:10:50 Step 27 Painting the Cabinets with Duratex
01:16:09 Step 28 Twist Wires, Install in Cab, Connect to Amp
01:19:09 Step 29 Hot Glue Wires in Place
01:20:14 Step 30 Amp Pilot Holes & Screws
01:22:51 Step 31 Poly Fill
01:24:22 Step 32 Connect Sub
01:26:35 Step 33 Mount Sub
01:27:39 Step 34 Connect Coax
01:29:32 Step 35 Foam Gasket
01:30:23 Step 36 Mount Coax
01:32:15 Aperta Stands
01:34:20 Step 37 Hypex Software Downloads
01:34:57 Step 38 Install Software & Firmware Update
01:35:41 Step 39 Install DSP Presets
01:37:44 Step 40 Install EQ Settings
01:41:18 Listening Impressions
01:42:10 Custom DSP Correction
01:43:22 In-Room Measurement
01:44:49 Listening Impressions
01:47:16 INCLINED Fidelity Builds
01:48:40 Optional Extras
01:49:45 Thank Yous
01:50:56 Sign Off
#SEAS #KingRO4Y #MKIII #DIYSpeaker #VonHertzog #DIY #HiFi #StudioMonitor #Speaker #Build #SpeakerBuild #BuildVideo #DoItYourself #SpeakerBuildVideo #TSC #TheSocialClub #ProductionTip #008 #Fidelity #INCLINEDFidelity #SocialClubSound #Amphion #ExMachina #InclinedFidelity #InclinedFi #ActiveSpeakers #3Way #ThreeWay #StudioMonitors
Finally a highend speaker kit on youtube! :D
I'd been waiting for someone to make a video about this kit but no one did so I had to do it myself!
I don't know how familiar you are with SEAS speakers? I grew up with SEAS around me since SEAS is Norwegian and I am Norwegian and since the store where I bought speaker components sold SEAS. I have built speakers out of SEAS speakers and my friend has also done it.
I would say that SEAS is not more HIGHEND than other speakers if you listen to the sound out of them. SEAS is NOT very good at making speaker crossovers. The speaker kit they sell doesn't sound so good with the original SEAS crossover!
SEAS is too expensive if you look at what you get. Therefore, not many people buy SEAS!
Really? This is child's Play compared to some of the videos out there that already exist
Hi , I have a pair of Transmission Line cabinets that I built myself about 40ys ago, they had Peerless and they sounded great, until one of the drivers popped, so I contacted Eric at Soundimports from the Netherlands, and they set me up with 8 inch drivers and tweeters from, SEAS ,
150w NAD AMP , And what a transformation these now sound amazing, I am in my 70s and I listen to classical heavy metal the blues and Viking music just name a few bits, Luckily, I live by myself in the French countryside, and I enjoy my music to say the least,
Very interesting territorial on building your SEAS audio monitor speakers, 🔊, Phil from the moulin France .
Thanks so much for your comment, Phil. Yeah SEAS have been a revelation for me and hearing music naturally. Thanks to Soundimports for the great recommendation!
Wow, 20 to 20 in a monitor 😮. I need this in my life.
A legit game changer for me here! Hearing everything so linear is a revelation. Like I said, holographic!
The sub has an F3 of 50Hz.
@@dalesmth1 the driver does? or the whole moniter? this thing has active crossover with DSP, probably an ADAU1701 chip. you can actively boost any frequencies you want. that being said, with a box sizes of 20L, i can get an $25 dayton audio classic 6.5" woofer to an f3 at 32hz with a simple box and port. no crazy engineering like double bass reflex designs or something
@@sportbikeguy9875I believe they use the newer ADAU1452 DSP chips 🤙🏼
Thanks for putting this video together in an easy to follow tutorial. I appreciate your personal input at times too. Nice work!
You're very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it. Let me know if there's any content you would like to see in the future!
Amazing work and video ! I was searching for such a long time an explanatory video to help me build my own 3-way Studio Monitors and yours is by far the best !!! Thx a million !
Glad I could help! Check out Madisound they were very helpful. And yeah these things are amazing
Excellent work on this 👏👏👏
Thank you so much!!!
Home Depot or Lee Valley sell a hinge drill that has a tapered outside bevel that automatically aligns with the center of the drivers mounting holes. It has an integral spring loaded pilot bit ... It results in perfectly centered holes for the speaker mounting screws...
It's designed for drilling kitchen cabinet hinges or door hinges but works perfectly for speakers and amplifiers...
Thank you! That's a great tip. I wasn't aware of this part but I'm going to pick one up. Thanks!
I had the good luck of buying 2 of the first iterations of this Seas coax back in 2012. To this day the speakers I developed around this coax are in my main listening system to this day and I'm looking at them right now. I think I will try teaming with a ScanSpeak 30W subwoofer and gauge the results. this is an amazing build and thank you for sharing your insights.
Thanks for your comment. Yeah the coax is magnificent. Such a great transparency to it. Tomorrow I'm releasing a speaker review for this kit! Let me know how the ScanSpeak sub works out!
Great vid. Thanks for the time and energy it took to make it. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
I love the sound its so cool
Great details and excellent build. Respect from India.
Thanks for checking it out! Glad you enjoyed it
Great job! Ive been curious about the coax driver since the 1st version 10 yrs ago. It's fun to watch the build with intelligent narrative.
Thanks so much for the comment! Glad you enjoyed. The coax sounds so transparent. I'm in love!
fantastic and inspirational video !
Glad you enjoyed, thanks for your comment!
Outstanding!
Thank you! Cheers!
I must congratulate you on superb desicion and making super build video. Top class and first one of this category
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video!
Thanks for checking it out man! Much appreciated
Great video.. well done👍👍
Thank you 👍
Amazing video, very well pit together man! Thanks you for the time, it defensively will help a lot of people.
It would be amazing to be able to upload Sound ID profiles.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for the comment!
Really well done video and edit. Excellent choice on speaker kit. As a contractor I winced at your use of the table saw.. never run it with the balde that high.. it cuts the same when it is just getting thru the top of the wood and teter tottering kneeling over that high of a blade make me hold my breath and pray for you.. great work but sketchy and janky table saw location and use. Now that being said I appreciate the content. Truly love audio and video. Prayers
Yeah, I hope you saw in the video I apologized for my inexperience in the wood working department. I'm used to just dealing with the speaker and amp components, but thank you for the recommendation. Glad you enjoyed the video (aside from my heart palpitation inducing saw use) 😂
Good catch! It actually cuts even better when just through the top.
I just had to delete my comment as I went back and read the description again. They went full active crossover with DSP for these speakers and that's really quite a bold move. I'm a huge fan of speakers that don't need separate subwoofers and these really do look like a great option if you're considering something like the KEF R3 Meta but wanted active speakers with monitoring potential.
I think the only change I would make, if you ever want to refinish the cabinets in the future, would be to add corner bracing to the front baffle and then use your table saw set at 15, 30, 45, and 60 degrees to pre-form the edges of the front baffle so you can sand them down into a massive round-over to reduce baffle edge diffraction. It's not strictly necessary, though.
In case you were curious: you can totally just use truck bedliner to paint your speaker cabinets. It has the benefit of being incredibly durable, but also offers sound damping effects as well due to the thickness and density of the material, but also due to the high-durometer silastic nature of the material.
These are the best speakers I've listened to in my studio and I've tried a lot of different speakers. Active, passive, 2 way, 3 way, point source, all kinds. These are my favorite and these get me excited to go to work and listen to music. SEAS actually had the edges rounded on the MKII version of the speaker but said it wasn't required as the impact with the DSP correction is almost non-existent. Thanks for the comment!
Congratulations on your new speakers :)
Sad that these components aren't available here in Brazil
Thank you, sorry to hear you can't access the parts in Brazil!
Loved it! ❤
Thank you!! Glad you loved it!
Cool tape trick for cabinet panels
Such a giant effort to film and document all of this, amazing work! Thanks for putting it together! Seeing you squatting down at the garage floor for hours cutting and routing the panels, I almost want to buy you a pair of saw horses, so that you can work on a table standing up, man! 😅
Hahaha, I forgot to ask Santa for some saw horses. I'll have to ask the Easter Bunny! Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment and care for my spinal health! Have a good one
I liked how you were able to fold all of the side panels together with the blue tape
It helps so much! Thanks for your comment
very cool and complete video on assembling this kit! Looks suitably high end.. but wow configuring the filter studio software looks way complicated
Yeah there's a bit of getting used to the software, learning where things are located etc. But I'm still tweaking the placement and DSP and I know the software really well now. So don't let that be too intimidating! Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for sharing.
Happy to share what I've learned! Thanks for watching and commenting
@@SocialClubSound I learned a lot from your video. However, there are many good TPA3255 boards out there, so that I plan to make my own amplifier with dsp. What is your dsp chip or board?
Hi, thank you for making the video. Just liked and subscribed!😎
Thanks for the sub! Good luck in the contest!
thank u, this video is super help full and this chanel also , got a new sucriber
Thanks for the sub! And I'm glad the video was helpful
You could fit a simple on-off toggle breaker switch on the fan amp module so as to be able to turn the fan of during critical times...the fan should only kick in if running above a preset temperature setting...eg...running the amps/speakers at loud level's for extended periods...that's a good quality looking bass/sub unit...i used to use SEAS drive units back in the '80's to design various loudspeakers...my favourites built were 3-way transmission line speakers with 8" bass units, 5 1/4" mid units & 1" silk dome ferro-fluid cooled tweeters with a very low 550hz resonance, the bass rolled in at 200hz which was the speakers -6db baffle step point, as the bass unit was 90db 1w/1m it matched the second order x-over on the midrange unit nicely,200hz - 2.2khz, padded the tweeter down with a 3rd order x-over with an L resistor set up to match the tweeter levels with the midranges...i bought the best polypropylene caps, air cored inductors, high quality resistors, 4mm connectors etc i could afford at the time..had them for 10yrs, i wish i still had them...the bass & mids were so good, good with so much depth & detail over the whole speakers range -3db 28hz - 25khz....nice speakers,i luv coaxial drive units, Kef Uni-Q, Tannoy, Flyde etc.....
Well made speakers bud....
I gotta say the 250 RMS feels like plenty for the speakers. There's no shortage of power when they need it. But yeah the toggle switch could work but then my anxiety that I turned the fan off when it's needed would take over and drive me crazy.
Sounds like you had some really nice SEAS speakers. I love how good their drivers sound. Big fan here!
If you put the drivers upside down you can move easily position them to drill the pilot holes for mounting and or putting in fittings to use bolts. These look pretty awesome!
Good tip!
Yep, I’m gonna have to build these though I have 4 way eve sc408s, I’m going to put these in my mastering room 😉
Super well done video production, you could pass as a Professional 😁😉
The first time I tried a SEAS product was an H253 (IIRC) 1" flush soft dome tweeter, coupled with a SEAS 6.5" paper cone mid/woofer and blew away Polk monitor 4s in 1983 (you were a bit young then 😜) and a guy in the stereo shop (where I'd brought them for comparitive listening) folloeed me to the ARCO and offered me 7 time$ what they co$t me to build. My first successful speaker design/build/sale.
I'm going to give this kit serious consideration.
👊😏👍
Yeah I've been consistently blown away by the accuracy of SEAS drivers. Sounds like the DIY bug bit you awhile ago! This kit is worth the effort!
nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Not to knock this guys efforts, time, blood, sweat, tears and occasionally annoying the neighbors. I guess I would say "These are the best speakers I ever heard". 😂😂😂😂
Awesome
Thank you!
What a great video. Many thanks for it all. They're clearly wonderful units. The Hypex electronics is obviously great too (I already use an NAD C298 class D amp), and the DSP is the icing on the cake. I live in New Zealand so the freight for the kit would probably be crippling.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I checked freight for the parts from Sound Imports and they're showing €125 to NZ so it's probably worth it!
Thanks for your reply. By my reckoning that would be close to NZ$300.00. In addition, I would probably have to get someone to do the cutting etc for me as I don't have any woodworking tools and I'm past my used-by date!!.
I am in Australia and looked at shipping. Cheapest is UPS at $478.19 USD. This puts me at $5600 AUD for the kit delivered and then I need to work out how to build the box.
Amazing build video, thanks for uploading! My only points of note are that the edges could do with being rounded off to reduce diffraction and the leads to the drivers seem a bit low gauge to me.
Hey! Thanks for your comment. I briefly mentioned in the video that the MKII had rounded corners but the MKIII had additional biquads to deal with it in the correction. The wire leads were coming directly from the amplifier harnesses so it's as thick as I could use given the connections (14 AWG). I was just trying to build this out according to the kit. I'm thinking of building new floor standing cabinets with the passive radiators and I'd round the corners on those cabs to see how different they measure
@The Social Club Studio Those studio monitors are beautiful, I can imagine how they sound, if I could afford the system and speakers I would love to build it, but I am not a carpenter. Plus I don’t have 5000.00$+ or 6500.00$+ for that type of studio monitors. Great job, I have cheap studio monitors by sterling, a pair of Yamaha HS5 too, KRK Rockit 12 subwoofer
Thank you! The best system is the one you know inside and out!
Damn, y'all given me an anxiety attack when tightening down those drivers. Those are sweet!
I was nervous too. I tried to be as steady as I could be. These things sound BONKERS
Seas are good speakers and I use them myself in DIY, this project of yours is great for a good price, you make a similar clone of TAD speakers with an added amplifier. Like all loudspeakers, this one also has a downside, I would never use a coaxial mid/tre unit because when moving the midrange, which acts as a waveguide for the tweeter, it strongly colors or changes the treble sound image.
I know what you're saying about the mid-range as a waveguide but the crossover is at 210Hz so there's really minimal mid-range movement. You can't see any excursion, all the excursion is happening on the subwoofer. Hope that helps clarify how it will works so well
I may have missed you pointing it out and you obviously included it in the design but, you could spell out that the Hypex plate amps (and other brands too) are not sealed with regard to air leakage; especially the FA503! Even with a vented enclosure, and certainly a sealed one, you have to fabricate some kind of enclosure or partition for the plate amp to maintain the air seal of the woofer enclosure. It’d be nice if the plate amp was sealed but, you have to accommodate that omission.
Yeah I tried to cover it somewhere in that 2.5 hours of content but you're right. The 503 has a fan so obviously that's not air tight and the 253 uses slits in the plate to accommodate convection cooling. I used the silicone to make sure the amp barrier partition was sealed off and the woofers had their necessary sealed chambers. Thanks for watching and the thoughtful comment!
This was excellent! If I had the time and energy, I'd build a pair of these for sure. What was the final cost of the build in terms of $$$ ??
@anythingbox Thanks for watching! Final cost all in was about $3300 with the extras I added in and the wood and paint. I used the smaller amp because it didn't have a fan and it's still giving the drivers what they ask for RMS power wise. The time is harder to estimate because I was trying to film it all while doing the actual labor which was so much more time intensive than I thought it would be.
Thanks so much for the video. So wish I could listen to these. Say where did you find the information about the tower versions? I'm not finding anything.
Check out the links in the description. You want the PDF Assembly Guide from SEAS and then go to the bottom of page 6 - Tips and Alternatives. To quote the passage "For even more low end-output, the system can be made into a floor standing speaker by extending the subwoofer enclosure height with 50cm and adding two SEAS SL26R passive radiators. The subwoofer DSP-filters then needs to be recalculated."
Nice work! You’re not going to want to eq frequencies above 100Hz to compensate for in room response. Only correct for direct sound that also is cincistent on and slightly off exis.
Great video only thing I would change are the speaker stands, metal is a poor material to use because of ringing, oak much better and 4 feet are not as good as 3 due to micro vibrations, much easier to get 3 feet to sit probably. Especially with pointed cones, this will prevent smearing in the HF.
Another upgrade if you could source it would be the addition of Kef
MAT technology, it's a circular, plastic structure that sits behind the tweeter and effectively absorbs 99% of the unwanted distorting sound that radiates from the cone’s rear into the cabinet. This technology has proven to be very effective in KEF speakers that have it, winning KEF the Innovation of the Year Award when it was first introduced. The latest R Series speakers are equipped with the latest version of MAT technology, making them even better at reducing distortion and producing a clear, accurate sound.
Great video! Thx. I would have screwed the Isoacoustics Gaia IIIs to the bottom or the Oreas.
I've seen those but I've never worked with them. Have you used them already? I'd be curious to know how they perform. Thanks for the comment!
@@SocialClubSound OMG! I have the Orea Bronze under my Focal Solo 6 s! Sounds fantastic. Another thing you might look at is upgrading the fuses to synergistic purple!
OK great to know!!! Thank you for the recommendations! It's such a wide world out there I'm always happy to get a recommendation on things
That's really nice ! Thank' a lot, i was hopping for this video to come till a long time ! Do you use classic MDF for your build or some more heavyest one like HDF ?
The build plans from SEAS call for 18mm MDF or Baltic Birch plywood. You could absolutely use HDF tho!
Thank you ! And how do you control the volume with this speakers ? Do you know if there is some way to control de volume after the DSP ? Changing the volume digitally before the DSP make you loose dynamic.
There's an optional remote control and you can link the two speakers so the one remote controls both at the same time
impressive kit as it is.. this thing kills 10k+ monitors hands down... oO and the low range with closed enclosure OMG
Yeah these things have changed my world. I can mix so much quicker and the phase coherency is so good they've been an absolute joy. I'm planning a review video where I can get into the details of the speaker more
very cool and wow i hope to do it one day but smaller. are these are designed for near field mixing or far field non-mixing ?
Application can work for both. I decided to use them as my main studio monitors and they're exactly 5 foot apart. Which puts me right on the edge of Near Field and Mid Field. The original design from SEAS was for compact full range speakers that can play with incredibly high fidelity. These fit that description and thanks to being able to touch up the DSP myself, they are the flattest speakers I've EVER heard. And I just adjusted my room yet again to get the room null down to 27Hz so I'm flat thru 30Hz now
Great video. You got any buzzing coming from just the tweeter? I build these around the same time as you and I get audible buzzing from my set. I tried a power conditioner with no luck.
I think we were just chatting on the ASR forum. I'm running these through a conditioner and they're dead quiet. Even when I run no signal but crank the volume knob on my monitor controller there's barely a hiss at max. They should be very quiet. Did your FA.503 amps come with ac power cords? My FA.253 amps did not.
Nice build, long video, but nice build.
Yes, thanks. Long indeed. I just wanted to try to cover all the things you might run into or need to do during a build but I agree it's long, longer than most movies 🤪 As long as you got something out of it!
Very nice video. Maybe to long, i used fast forward sometimes. Frequency respons is almost perfect! Maybe i missed when you told what program you used. But i think Rew. (And umik) I use it to. I my small music room response looking not half as good as yours. For 32hz its only a small problem. 8db is nothing for room nod. I got 15db. Going to buy membraneabsorber.
Yeah it ran long, but there was so much to cover, I didn't want to gloss over anything. Valid point tho! Since the video I've improved the sound even more and shifted my speaker and listening position a bit farther back in the room and now I have the null down to only -6dB at 27Hz for the combined pair!
A curved baffle is better for minimising baffle refraction, e.g B&W DM series monitors.
Agreed. The MKII version had rounded corners but according to the plans from SEAS, there's enough DSP available to make the rounding of the corners optional for the MKIII
Feeding the FA Plate amp analog signal, you basically doing double conversion. First digital to analog in your own DAC, then inside the plate amp from analog to digital, AND back to analog.. If you feed it only digital (max sampling 24bit 96kHz), you are skipping the first conversion in your DAC and then the AD-DA conversion inside the plate amp.
Whats your opinion on Kali's IN-8 3-Way Studio Monitors if you have one? I've had a small studio and got into recording/mastering years back since ive been playing in bands my whole life and caught the Bug. its still a "Hobby" I guess because its not my main profession but Ive recorded and mastered many works. I used Yamahas HS80s for 7 years and Bought the Kali's specifically their Coaxial Drivers because nobody in the industry had monitors that were coaxial based, unless you had thousands to spend. So for Nearfield I now use the KALI's IN-8 V2's which are great. Also have a pair of DIY 88-Special's for other Reference in my Control Room. I love Audio. Especially Transforming a Customers EP or Mix (whether a master or record and master) and seeing how happy they are. Its always the best part for me.
I haven't had a chance to hear the Kali's in person yet so I don't want to offer an opinion other than seeing their frequency response looks great and I've heard good things about the brand. I had presonus Sceptre S8s and they were coaxial with a horn and I liked those other than they didn't go low enough for my taste they started rolling off too soon at 60Hz for me. But I believe a great coaxial speaker that's properly set up is always going to sound amazing because of how it helps keep things more time aligned
Your neighbors must love you...😂
As far as I can tell they do... Which is good enough for me
@@SocialClubSound cool, great job on the monitors
Thank you! Thanks for the comments
I remember the first time I made an enclosure
🤘❤️🤘
I need a speaker to match my Personality. Since these speakers are about perfect, that a BIG NO for me!
I think I enjoyed the video more since you added your own personal touches. (Vibe if you will) It made it fun to watch. And Might I say, AMAZING JOB!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic video! Really enjoyed that. And loved the build because I myself am no cabinet building expert so I laughed at some of the techniques as it’s probably how I would do them and then cringe when watching back.
Regarding the poly fill, have you removed the drivers since finishing them? I think there is a chance the material will, over time, fall and clump at the bottom of the cabinet. This will probably have the biggest effect on the coax where you the filling is there to absorb reflected sound reaching the back of the mid driver.
Reflex foam is a good alternative as it won’t move once fitted securely. Or some netting could be used to support the poly fill in several layers across the cabinet.
Another question, does the optional remote allow you to adjust output volume level of both speakers at the same time? I’m thinking about those that connect a digital source directly that does not have variable digital output.
Once again, great video. 👍🏻
I've opened them once to check since they've been used and the poly fill is holding it's spot for now. I'm other builds I've done I've used foam inside and I've been happy with the result. Using the wool and poly fill in this kit was a lil different than I was used to but it still worked nicely.
And yes, the remote can control both at once. Inside the software you use for the DSP you can link the speakers together. A helpful addition I'm sure!
@@SocialClubSound awesome. Thanks for replying
Don't need the closed captioning. you speak clear enough
Just watching this video and hv a question. Why cut the panels with a 45 instead of straight cuts when it can be finished with veneer anyway? Seems way easier. Maybe I am missing something?
I didn't design the kit, I just built it to their specs. But as someone who has built cabinets in the past this does make it easier to get a perfectly square box. I do know part of the idea behind the kit was to make it easy for DIY people to do it. It rolled up great.
sorry, you moved the router wrong. if the router bit rotates clockwise, please move the router clockwise. with MDF you might not notice that much difference, but with solid wood the edges are cleaner and less "burned" positions.
the router bit might jump uncontrolled if moved like you did.
This is no criticism, more a safety thing for those who watch the video and starting to build...
👍
Thank you! I tried to put my warnings in the video that I don't fully know the woodworking side of things so I appreciate your safe recommendation. Thank you! 🙏🏼
Superb video of a speaker I want to make so desperately. I want a bookshelf fullrange and this is it. Unfortunately I don’t get seas in my country. Wondering if anyone has some suggestions some other coaxial or FullFrange drivers and subwoofer so like a FAST speaker fullrange assisted subwoofer
Honestly seas really are just not that great
Check out Dayton
@@bricebowlin8834 is dayton tweeter is better than seas
Right now I use Yamaha HS8 & HS8s subwoofer and Sonarworks helped me a lot calibrating the speakers to my room . I saw that the sound of SEAS King RO4Y MKIII is flat but do you think that It is necessary to use these speakers with Sonarworks , does it help ?
Sonarworks does A LOT to help sort out room issues and is a form of DSP on its own. I have it but I don't use it with these since they have their own DSP processing built in. I'm currently working on a review video of these speakers and I'll do more in depth at how and why I use it to improve what I hear. The main difference between the two different set ups will be the quality of the parts. This kit cuts no corners in the parts quality department, as where Yamaha are more mass produced. Any other questions or if you want more clarity in my answers, please ask!
Thanks a lot , I wish I could find your tutorials before I bought my Yamaha HS studio speakers , six years ago ! I don't say that they are bad but I'm sure that's a significant difference between HS & this kit .
I'm not trying to say the HS8 aren't up to the job. They are remarkable speakers given the money. But yeah there's levels to all this stuff. I hope you keep watching!
Oh , yes !!! Anything that will make this kit sound even better is my deepest concern ! I probably watched this video a couple of times to see every detail because when I'll start building these I wanna be very well informed !
wow studio monitors build but video is 1pm to 5pm i am form india time is 12:30 am to 4:30 am is mid night here i am going to slep bey sir
Hopefully you can catch it after the premiere. The video is just under 2 hours long.
Nice work. Your edits were great and it's obvious you're not married. Wood working....in a kitchen? I don't think so?
I am married! This is the kitchen in my studio, The Social Club. There's a pool table behind the camera there. But if I tried this in my home kitchen she would have some thoughts I'm sure 😁
You know, you can use a drill to twist those wires in 2 seconds
is that paint water based? usually you prime or seal mdf w very specific products. i’m a painter but unfamiliar w that product.
This product is designed to go onto MDF or plywood directly and can serve as it's own self primer (according to the label). I've found it to be amazing at helping keep the cabinets safe. You can thin it out with a little water to get more of an orange peel texture.
what is your recommendation for build an amp for a passive hi fi speaker? ICEpower AS1200 or Hpex ncx500?
Personally, I'd go with the ncore amps. I've found them to sound nicer than the ICE Power modules, but they're both great quality. Also 1200 W is going to be overkill for most speakers
@@SocialClubSound 🙏👍
Hi I have 2 of the FA 503, ive had it for some time but only recently unboxed them. so all the latest softwire is downloaded but NO pre set filters ? Hypex just keep sending links back to there website which is a complete waste of time. Programing custom filters is extremely long winded , so my questing is , the pre sets you have can you edit ? also where are they and how many is there? all the very best from Japan ..
I'm not really sure how to answer you. I had an easy time setting up the filters beacause SEAS provided the guide and filters to do so, not Hypex. Seems like if you want to use the DSP you have to have measurements from the individual drivers. Not 100% sure that's accurate but that seems to be my interpretation.
Dont kill me for aaking but how are these for audiophile 2.1 setup for music listening and not for mastering?
I wouldn't kill you for asking a question! That's what I'm here for, to answer questions. These were originally designed at SEAS to be a full range hifi setup and boy do they succeed. They're good enough to be studio monitors but are absolutely at home in a hifi setup as well. Hope that helps! Thanks for your comment.
Was that a real-life deer hanging up there? 🦌
Yeah, I inherited from my dad. I'm not a hunter
@@SocialClubSound It is good to know you are not a hunter. Love your content 👌
Damn them floor standing tower build on these things will probably be like what 15-20k a pair? I guess thats amazing for probably the only speakers you will ever need for life no need too ever upgrade or replace these..
Vince and I are going to huddle up and see what the floor standing would run us from a production and cost standpoint. Thanks for watching the live premiere with me!
@SocialClubSound thanks for sharing you got a very special craft for building amazing speakers. im interested for sure in the near future on purchasing some builds off of you.
I had these headphones they sold at radioshack it was their own brand by radio shack they had volume knobs on each ear they were muff headphones as i called them and they were loud and they had bass supposedly they were 20hz-20k frequency response i never understood what that meant back them. But they were like 25-30$ and they were my favorite headphones.. again i dont remember if i could hear things i never heard before in songs but i know i enjoyed them and everyone of my friends all enjoyed them as well..
Oh man, I miss Radio Shack. They were usually over priced on small adapters and stuff but they had EVERYTHING. So many times in the late 90s I was running to radio shack for some weird connector I needed.
If you have any questions about any of the speakers I've built just ask! Thanks again for checking out the premiere
@SocialClubSound i dont even know everything you built or build currently but i respect the craft ill have tons of questions for sure so much information behind how speakers operate i had no idea it was so complex..
@@SocialClubSound yeah radio shack was different kinda store
Hi, I've had a chance to experience a lot of great monitors Hifi and studio (Amphion 3 way 25a vs Dutch and Dutch 8c in same room, pmc 6-2 with 8-2 subs etc.). You've also experienced ex Machinas and probably other great ones. How close do this compare to them. Ex machinas went even more cutting edge as you said but how would you compare it based on what you've heard? How close this gets. I know that for money nothing can beat them but anyway just to make some feeling about how got they are sounding versu each other? Ex machina pulsar doesn't go to 20hz so here is the one difference on paper. How this translates to reality?
The Ex Machina speakers are very linear and flat speakers. Super tight frequency response via their DSP. I'm sure anyone dropping money on them will feel they got their money's worth. What I still prefer about the King RO4Y MKIII is the ability to dial in the DSP for the sub in the room. You can't edit the DSP on Ex Machinas which mean room cancellations can still hamper you response. I like the bigger 10" sub in the King RO4Y. If you sat me down blindfolded I don't know if I could tell a King RO4Y from a Quasar. The larger sub gets me down to 20Hz with help from DSP and thoughtful room placement to avoid nulls. I honestly don't know if I can hear a difference in the materials used as I haven't had a chance to directly A/B them in the same space at the same time. I'm still amazed at how well the King RO4Y MKIII images and the resolution it has.
How did you like the Amphion One25A?
@@SocialClubSound Great tnx for your response. We listen Amphions in a hotel room cause it was Hi-fi event so the place was not acousticaly treated but they corrected both (meassured with mic) dutch and dutch 8c and amphions 25 via Rme Adi pro fs2 so they played similiar in those conditions. Different sound between them Amphions are a little more detailed on the top and dutch a little more smoother, bottom end is also different between them it's hard to tell cause dutch is very impressive in low end with tightness but at the same time also amphion is so both are amazing :) the difference subjectively is not so big so you go ether way hapilly but on the end if we need to choose we said that for studio work Amphion is probably closer to what we need (subjectevly) based on what we heard. But of course you can work with both easily :) so if King Ro4y MKIII is there on that level with them and of course with a slight difference in sound presentation cause they are all slight different..then that is crazy good! :)
Cool! Yeah I love the coaxial in the King RO4Y. I had Amphion One18s before these so I'm used to that Amphion sound. I think the time alignment for phase is still one of the biggest advantages to the King RO4Y MKIII. Does absolute wonders for reverb tails and delays clarity. Thanks for the response!
@@SocialClubSoundI'm curious Amphion uses 700 W of power for the same 10inch sub driver and then 2x 205W for mid and tweeter. So does King Ro4y have enough power based on that comparation? And also about the cabinet. Amphion also sealed have 2 chambers inside. I also thought about that for King Ro4y does one chamber maybe negativly impact sound cause usually speaker manufacturers make some kind of labyrinth inside:)?
The subwoofer has an RMS rating of 250W so the Hypex 253 amp provides the recommended RMS power. But these subs are like tanks so I'm sure it can take the 700W from ICEPower without blinking. I don't think 250 is underpowered, they sound great with their rated power.
This is great! A new philosophy workshop and Kitchen in one 👍🏻 a Kitshop ! Work and eat cook build drink 🍺 great !
Hmm maybe a toilet 🚽 in the corner ? Everything one needs ! Kitshitshop studio
but i like the sub i must say
MDF or wood for the Speaker boxes?
The plans from SEAS suggest 3/4" or 18mm MDF or Baltic Birch (depending how you want to finish the speaker.
MDF is pretty much sonically dead. But really isn't that strong plus absorbs moisture and very easily strips out screws and such. The better choice would be something like Baltic birch. Birch will also give you a better finish
Can they be placed horizontaly?
100% they absolutely can. That's the orientation Amphion went with for theirs. Being that the midrange and tweeter are point source you can rotate them to whichever orientation works best for you
great video, but but but why dsp? yes, ok, you can tune them for ruler flat response, but the sound/input you feed them with can still be bad/incorect. what am i missing?
Not sure I fully understand your question. You're asking why use the DSP? Because it lets us see if the sound input we're feeding them is wrong. I'm using them as studio monitors so I need them to be analytical. Hope that helps clear it up!
many thanks for replying. let me phrase it differently. say you adjust the dsp so that the frequency is as flat as possible for your room. i get that. then you mix a track based on that dsp setting. it sounds great. but you adjusted your track to sound good for that dsp. if i listen to your track on my non-dsp speakers, and let's say they are ruler flat too, your track probably will not sound that good because i do not use your dsp setting. maybe i'm talking utter garbage here. i would like to build your speakers myself. am i right in saying that by having dsp speaker i basically adjust the digital signal for my environment thus altering the original digital signer, just like me altering a digital image to suit the color mode of my monitor, so in fact i never know what the original picture looks like.
another thing is the amplifier. it so tiny compared to stand alone amps with big transformers etc.@@SocialClubSound
OK, I think you're confusing the DSP correction with the source audio playback. Here's how the DSP in this speaker is working. The DSP is there to correct irregularities in the frequency response of the drivers and then I further modified it for my specific room. That DSP is only accurate for that specific speaker in that position, true. But... I'm listening and making my judgements on the flat response playback of the program audio, not on the DSP's correction curve. Think of this more like Sonarworks built into the monitors. The only thing the DSP is doing is correcting the speakers response for the room. It isn't affecting the program audio signal at all. All the corrections are handled BEFORE the program audio is played back. That allows the speaker's performance to be corrected first and playback flat. I'm only hearing the corrected response playing the source material. So I'm making my mixing and mastering judgements on the flat response the speaker has, not on the correction it is performing. I hope that helps clarify but if not, ask again and I'll try to attack it from a different angle. Thanks!
Would love to know if anyone has the hypex dsp file converted to miniDSP format
I don't believe it does, I think it is proprietary to Hypex but I'm not 100% sure
$3200 kit??? Have you lost your mind. For $3200 you can get some really nice speaker that are already assembled.
For $3200 there's not a production speaker on the planet that can compete with these. My Amphion One18s were $4k a pair. These compete with speakers in the $10k to $15k a pair price range. Sorry if it's a little too pricey for you but thinking you're going to pay $3200 for a speaker with performance anywhere close to these is laughable. Quality costs!
He thinks 3200$ for studio grade monitors is a lot… so naive)))
a rectangular box with a flat baffle , will suffer diffraction effects 🤔
The MKII version had rounded corners because the wasn't enough DSP correction to handle the diffraction but that's not the case with the MKIII. The MKIII accounts for this in the DSP. So the rounded corners are optional on the MKIII
Do u know frequency response please?
The frequency response of the speaker? I take a measurement in the video
Is there someone having the files for CNC cutting machine ?
No, not that I'm aware of. I asked SEAS and they didn't have them, so unless someone took it upon themselves, I'd say not yet.
33:08 Tar patches are effective when the thickness to be treated is equal to or less than the tar patches.
So here it doesn't work.
It absolutely helped in this case. It added 5 pounds of overall mass to the cabinet and it decreased cabinet vibrations and resonances from the sub and mid-range. Not looking to argue just reporting back my real world experience
@@SocialClubSound
I'm talking about the real world , because I build speakers too loll.
Only internal reinforcement is effective on this thickness.
The extreme on the neutrality of a speaker box is sandblasted walls + internal reinforcement and bonding of absorbent foam on the exterior of the box.
I don’t get the point why you added the 6db on all of the presets since it should be applied within the preset 3 saved.
This is the process that SEAS came up with. They clearly stated in their build PDF the order and placement for the shelf boost to go. I was curious why they didn't just apply the boost in the DSP section, or adjust the subs gain instead. But this is the process they created so I just followed the instructions.
Strange, like we both said they just could safe the boost in the presets. Could you link the butyl Sound Deadening Mat you used ? By the way : all the links in the description doesn’t work (SEAS)
The links in the description are all working I just verified. The SEAS links are all http not https tho, don't know if that's stopping you. Please try again. Also, I added the links for the sound deadening mat and the roller.
@@SocialClubSound Strange, checked them again but still not working if you are from Germany. Different question : how thick was the wood you used ? It doesn't look like you worked with 18mm wood.
I used 3/4 inch MDF which is 19mm. Hope that clarifies. Weird that the links aren't working for you. Maybe try to access their main website seas.no Any other questions, let me know!
forgot the midrange diffuser
Care to elaborate?
Would have used GR research no rez
Fair point! Would have saved me some time but I was trying to do it with the stuff from the Madisound kit. I'm the future tho that would save me time
Check out psi lol
😅I hope whatever is played on these is never subject to the music that played in the background. Pitch was horrible - sounded like a turntable or tape deck speeding up and slowing down…
Anyone doing these passive?
Not that I'm aware of. If you check out the MKII version, that has a passive crossover for the coaxial because they were using an older amp that only had two channels. You can see what they drew up for the crossover circuit in the MKII plans
@@SocialClubSound Thanks for the reply.
No problem! Also, Amphion has the One25A which is active, but uses a separate external amplifier you connect to the cabinet via cables. No DSP tho in the Amphion.
I just wish he would say seas right. It driver me nuts. But otherwise great video.
I used to pronounce it Sees as well, but before the video I asked the company how to pronounce it and they sent me an audio clip with the pronunciation, so take it up with the company in Norway!
U 4GOT SUB GASTETS BUT GREAT JOB😅
Subs come with the under gaskets built in!
No way you installed COAX with an open back in the same disclosure with sub. it's going to pump those COAXes and make them sound bad. since it's not closed back speaker - it should be placed in the sapareted "chamber"
It is separately sealed. If you look at the plans you can see everything fits together tightly and then I also sealed it up with silicone. Each chamber is properly sealed. The chamber divider piece sits inside 8mm rebates. When I'm rolling the cabinets up you can see me put the chamber separator in. Because you're right, if they weren't separate it would be a nightmare. But rest assured everything is sealed off properly.
@@SocialClubSound Oh ok, gotcha. i probably missed that part with 8mm separation plate. then it's solid.
$3,119?
The sub has an F3 @ 50Hz.
😂😂
Not after the DSP it doesn't
Most terrible sound on background ever hear. But the project is 👍
You referring to the music or the speaking portions of the video?
Seeeees not see aahs like ocean 🌊 the sea .
Sorry for saying but if one decides to go on air he/she should speak it real like radio moderation
You're incorrect, I asked the SEAS team for the correct pronunciation and they replied with an audio clip. "Say-ahs" it's not "Sees"
@@SocialClubSound hmm I in Denmark 🇩🇰 at the time, I’ll ask the Dänisch chaps how they say it if not I’ll pop over to Norway 🇳🇴 and have a chat with the people from, the word with “S” 😉
i really don't like the paint, why don't you spaypaint it?
I said while I was painting it my reasons for choosing duratex because it will be used in a studio not a living room. Duratex withstands the extra moving and resists scuffs and chips