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You can use any european method with natural components, used by centuries and don't cost yo this price. Anyway en Europe using wooden instruments in the kitchen for instance is prohibited by higigienics.
Jim, after I used clear armor to finish an oak cabinet I built for my computer and supplies, I had to drop you a note of thanks for turning me on to this product. Everything you said about it was spot on. The finish, I used satin cured as planned and I needed to do a quick 400 grit interim sanding to smooth it all out. My wife and I are both asthmatics, so conventional finishes have been problematic for us. This was, as you put it, a "Game Changer". No odor, beautiful finish, and ease of use. I did notice that all the demos of the product were on a single board. I had a fully assembled cabinet. I removed all the doors, drawer slides, hinges, etc. and finished the removable parts separately. The cabinet I just turned to orient the part I was finishing on a horizontal plane and finished it that way. All in all I couldn't be happier with the result. Thanks for the turn on! Dennis Freeman
Cam from Black Tail Studios mentioned wearing thicker darker gloves and long sleeves when using the UV light finishes. He mentioned feeling a bit sunburned after using a handled UV light to cure his finish and talked to a medical professional friend who said that those UV lights are significantly more powerful than UV from the sun. Don't want skin cancer of course.
Yep he did and if you plan to use UV cured finish I would strongly advise to do when you doing hand curing, but in this case he has separate UV curing room with ceiling mounted lights so he probably just walk out and turns lights on for 2 - 3 min.
He has a much more intense industrial UV light that blasts wayyy more light than seen here. Always good to be protected but the light quantity from this is probably less than 5% of the one Cam is using.
@@loganscelina Yes, agree. The lights used with this product are the same kind of UV you would see at a "Blacklight party", and no one gets sunburned by those. The one Cam uses is more akin to a tanning bed, and exposure to that will light you up. The cost of the handheld light sold for use with this product is $289, the cheap light for used with Vesting LED oil is $1,000. That's not the one Cam is using. He's using one 4 or 5 time larger than that in his videos and is over $4,000, which of course, didn't come out of his pocket. So this is a BIG difference. And the Vesting oil appears to be for indoor use only. So this is a REALLY big deal. I can't wait to try it. Scott from Japan
... some quick lateral reading of the MSDS, photoinitiators, and what acetone doesn't attack, and I'm going to guess that the finished product is a polyethylene. Which is to say that is such an awesome application of modern chemistry and material sciences!
@@paulbriggs3072It is always the way when the product is new and low volume production. If the main industry adopts the product then costs come down dramatically.
Old school refinishing. Ammonia to remove the old finish. Linseed oil. Bees wax to seal. I used this method on a 100 year old rocker 50 years ago and the finish is still beautiful!
I like how the old school finish is all biodegradable. That UV cure epoxy will just end up in the food chain along with all the other micro plastic poisoning our food supply and bodies.
I went to an Amish furniture shop near Lawrenceburg, TN last year and the odor of beeswax-linseed/mineral oil mix hit me the moment I walked into the shop. One of the owners’ sons was applying a hand-rubbed finish on a beautifully crafted (yet already spoken for) walnut dining table and chair set. I don’t know the exact proportions but the finish was flawless, better than any factory polymer I’ve ever seen. Stock up folks, EPA’s still open for business.
Yes! Yes! And even older finish- ebonized wood finish with rust and vinegar then boiled linseed oil to moisten. Finish with beeswax to seal. Polish. Lasts hundreds of years, bugs won't eat it, and it's moisture and mold protection. Nature is best, and usually cheaper. Only downside to this process is the only color stain you get is black or dark brown. I did this process on a piece of holly wood. It came out a warm chocolate color.
"50 years ago and the finish is still beautiful!" that is the problem we aren't supposed to have anything that lasts anymore, If something lasts we don't buy a new one. Planned Obsolescence.
Depends what you’re going for. Doing that finish would look awful on a piano compared to a high gloss polished or a hand satinized lacquer finish. Also linseed oil ruins the acoustic properties of tone woods, so it’s a double no go for pianos/guitars
This is why i love the community amongst "builders" or "makers." When you find something that's incredible and works super well all you want to do is share it with others so they can reap the same benefits!
Glad to see this product is getting more videos. I used the outdoor satin on an outdoor set (6 person table with glass inlay, a two person bench and 2 chairs) and I used the same outdoor version on a ~2,5m (~8'4'') floating cabinet and a waterfall style couch table and I still got some stuff left in the 1quart (~0.95l) bottle. I didn't go to heavy on the coats, because I want to feel the wood grains and not a sheet of pastic. You can coat a huge area with that bottle and also it is more expensive than some finishes, it is still a very good price for what you get. This will 100% be my choice for my kitchen countertops and indoor windowsills, that I will made out of walnut, or acacia. Prolly for anything I'm going to build in my new home. On tip tho, don't buy the UV lights they are offering. Way to expensive, compared to cheap ones from amazon and co. with the same output. Also, always wear UV blocking glases when working with UV lights. Long sleeves and gloves are not really important, if you don't use UV lights in super industrial strenght, like Cam (Blacktail) is using. TL;DR for me, this is the new Rubio Monocoat in terms of usability. Just like 3m cubitron sandpaper is just better. For cutting boards / wooden kitchen tools I still use my personal blend with beeswax and mineral spirits.
How does it sand? If you sand through a layer do you see along the edge the layer below it (witness line), that is the problem with these products. I no longer use Solarez for this reason.
@@billysmether6237 I only sanded my indoor projects, but the surface was very smooth before I applied the finish. 320 grid on walnut. I sanded the coats with 600grid and VERY lightly with no preassure and by hand, so I didn't sand thru the finish. Dunno how it behaves on very grainy wood. Sandig itself was no problem at all and in my case 100% not neccessary. BUT I read about the problem with sanding thru the coat and getting lines on the edge before I used it, so I was really carefull.
@@billysmether6237I’ve used the Wood 700 in gloss and satin. The gloss sands fine, satin is much harder to sand as the flattening agent is silica based. So I use the gloss till the final coat then use the satin.
If you have a business where shipping or delivery time is important, this would have a major impact. I never feel comfortable sticking a smelly project in a box to a customer. Thanks James, I will visit the site to see if there are long term tests they’ve done for color!
Happy to see UV acrylic make its way into so many useful applications! I will almost certainly be using this for my desk. It's amusing because I've been wearing variations on the formula for nail enhancements, where it has been a staple product for over a decade! Thank you for this great tip!
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
I like the classic ways of woodworking, including the process of applying oiled based finishes. Should I mention I love the smell of oil based finishes. 😂 I can see how this can be a game-changer for furniture factories which use massive amounts of finishes.
@mesoed that bottle looks suspiciously like a 3d printing resin bottle. It could just that it is the same bottle because why re-invent the wheel, but I might have to try some clear printer resin on a piece of scrap and see what happens. The cheaper stuff stinks to high heaven but you can get some really low odour stuff and it's not terribly expensive.
The need for VOC finishes has been increasing for years. I started with early acrylic finishes in medical offices with no complaints. My art paintings early on soured me on the horribly dysfunctional European medieval era tech tube oil paints with linseed oil as the carrier. Searching options I ran across new Genesis art paint in special containers. The paint never dries nor cures so adjustments can easily be made many months later. When ready the paint is set by the use of a hair dryer heat or s heat gun. Perfect control over medium. Tube paint is approximately 25% solids the rest are volatiles. The Genesis paint is 100% solids with 0 waste. The Clean Armor formula functions exactly the same way only with a UV set popular with craft people. When you actually do the math on usable product vs solvent volatiles wasted the gallon price becomes more attractive as the shelf life is near eternal. This video is about introductory wood finish. To stand out from the herd to earn more this finish offers decorative possibilities impossible with VOC finishes. Also, this product is merely the opening salvo of new product concepts already in use with other people. The correct terms are VOC dries, catalytic resins cure, and UV Heat sets. Thanks Mr Nubs for opening the door.
Holy Crap. I'm impressed. I have a small shop and make tabletops for a living. This really would be a game changer. I'm going to go check it out now. Thanks for sharing!
There have been companies producing uv cured wood finishes for years now. All of them are expensive tho. I doubt this company actually physically produces this product on its own factory line. Someone else is likely producing and packaging for them. That said, they still might be your best source.
Keep in mind it goes three times further than solvent based finishes so one quart is really three quarts. Being able to do all your finish coats in one go, inside, and then immediately use the furniture is also worth something. Can’t expect it to be the same price as polyurethane.
I but you can get the same result with a water washable 3d printing resin. You can but 3d print resin for resin printers and they now offer water washable versions. They all cure with UV light, that is how resin printers work. You can buy 1kg for 20 to 30$ and I can almost bet you could find one that gives you the exact same result. Just my 2cents.
A non-negligible difference might be the smell. AFAIK, the 3D printing resins *can* be rather smelly, requiring good ventilation. So they have some sort of VOCs. Since uncured resin is considered toxic, I would be careful with this uncured wood finish and avoid getting it on skin.
Wow that’s insane!! Definitely a game changer. To eliminate drying time, drying space in the shop and not have to worry about it curing until you want it to. Incredible!
Yeah I was in Printing too, I've used UV inks on Web Presses where the Web was Cured by a UV source. I would use a Vendor for UV Coating, so I never knew exactly what was in the work flow of that, however I personally didn't like the look of the UV Gloss, yeah it was "shiny" but it always had and uneven finish, the Varnish we used for Gloss or Matte from a Printing unit left a smooth as glass finish....then they came out with Aqueous Coating which was almost as shiny as UV but it was smooth as glass and dried very quickly and very hard, I would think if you have a local Printer that has a Press with a Coating Tower, I bet you could get few ounces to try out and have chat about the "old Days".... this stuff here is $154.00 a Qt. < I'll pass
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
@@ELROCKETEER I was thinking this too. It just sounds like either Clear 3D Resin or the varnish coating I use in UV printing. If so, this is a really expensive product that costs 4x more than the others. And $300 for a 12" UV lamp is scandalous!!
I love that you pitch $900 spiral planing blades and $144/qt finishes. They all look fantastic and I'll never be able to afford any of them. Just foolin', you do give us plenty of affordable tips and I appreciate that.
@@StumpyNubs I know. I was just having some fun. You have already saved me money on several purchases where I might have spent more unknowingly. My only problem with your expensive recommendations is that I really really want them!
@@tombiggs4687 Not everything that is expensive once, costs you more in the long run. Ofcourse there is the high entry cost, but if it last 10x as long and is only 5x as expensive, it saves you money in the end. Same with stuff that safes you alot of time, when you get paid by the hour. Best example may be the Domino. There is simply no way, to be as precise and quick as with a Domino.
On average, the most expensive products are the best products. Not always the case. But in general. Knowing that the product exists is helpful, because it is technology aimed at woodworkers, and wood, not surfboards or printing presses, industries who also use UV cured resin finishes. So I’ll take these really pricy products and see if I can beat the price some other way.
@@d.k.1394 Not if you are making tables for a living. The two minute drying time is a game changer. That's not even long enough for a fly to land on it!
My quart of table top finish arrived in two days!! Goofed around today with some scraps of wood - quilted maple, chestnut, walnut, 30 year old yellow pine, spruce.. Wow! This stuff rocks! Beautiful finish with fast drying. Can't wait to haul my dining room table outside tomorrow for a long overdue refinish! Grateful for your video!! And all those griping about the price - try a quart, you'll be sold! The result is well worth the cost. Oh, and that maple is spectacular. Light sanding with 400 between coats, wow!
Thank you for showcasing this product. What I really like about the UV light curing is the 2 minutes to cure to a rock hard finish. I found that I could sand the surface, vacuum and apply the next coat within 10 minutes. No more waiting for days after each sanding for the finish to dry.
So glad to see this being posted! A company I was previously at was working with Clean Armor for for UV set metal finishes. I did all I could to see if I could get a sample jug of their wood finish, but it never worked out
There's only mild if any differences. Mostly to do with cured hardness and adhesion qualities. I can use the automotive clear for brushed on wood finish. (From their mouths not mine)
I've had great success using clear 3d printer resin to finish kitchen knife handles. You can get a liter for $20, it's extremely durable, and it sands and polishes out to a beautiful finish. To cure it, a UV LED lamp or flashlight will do the trick for small objects.
@@Shangster949 The 3d printer resins do stink though and word is frequent contact can cause sensitivities. Though that was my thought at first too. This must be something different but probably using similar chemistry.
I've been using water based Varathane Polyurethane and Minwax Polyacrylic for about 10 yrs now. I have put them on guitars and so they get some wear. I like the Varathane best for necks and bodies. I have used them in combination layering to see if they would flake off , they didn't. There is also a great set of water based stains that can be mixed with oil or water based finishes and paints. I used a red stain with some white nitro lacquer to get a unique shade of pink for a Bass I did for a friend. I saw it on TV with a Punk band. He had sold it. Mixol is the brand and they are highly concentrated. It is the same thing StewMac sells. Woodcraft carries them. There about 30 colors and wood tones. I can match anything for finish repair. I can do almost all my work inside. That is great since I live in Houston and the heat humidity and bugs are major problem. Even taking a neck outside to give it a cost with a spray can is risky. Odds are bug will have found you.
I'm curious, how much of a difference have you observed between Varathane and Polycrylic? I've got polycrylic on a computer desk I built for myself, and my parents recently got some varathane for a project of their own, and looking at the cans they look to be pretty similar products.
@@reaganharder1480 Acrylic is harder and has more friction on the guitar necks.Varathane has a better feel and lacquer look. That important for guitars. That said the Varathane is holding up fine. For regular woodwork either is fine. Seems like the varathane might melt into itself a bit better. I prefer the V for guitars.
Hopped into comments looking for this. I've been seeing water based Varathane clear recently, which can be tinted by the can in the store. Really wish I could get the color tints themselves. For that bass you built, was the white nitro Duplicolor or was it the stuff from StewMac? What is the water based stuff you mentioned that can be mixed with water or oil based color finishes? I'm building four guitars at the moment, and more to come in the future. Always looking for great finish products. Thanks!
@@peachmelba1000 I've been using Target Coatings water based finished for several years now, I really like their conversion varnish and have had good results with their lacquer. The sell a good variety of tints.
I’ve been using Rubio Monocoat for a few years now, it’s not cheap goes a long way easy to apply and only requires one coat. It’s durable and meets all safety standards and is VOC free. The best stuff I have ever used and comes in a vast range of colours Food safe and child safe, it’s a remarkable product 👍👍
One important thing to note: The SDS/TDS clearly state that you should be using gloves and a respirator, and to only apply it outdoors or in well-ventilated areas.This looks a lot like the products from Vesting, though Vesting emphasizes theirs being a hardwax, and the SDS for Clean Armor suggests it's more like a resin/urethane.
well that is standard boilerplate . and they don't know the long term effects of the stuff anyway. that would take a whole bunch of animal studies starting with mice. we all thought teflon was safe till now it's alleged to be toxic.
@@ronblack7870 And you know this is "standard boilerplate" how? No chemicals are listed, which means it's a proprietary formula so either you don't actually know, or you do and are somehow speaking on behalf of the company without their lawyers' approval. P.S. Your example doesn't support your argument … "assumed safe but we now know better" means we should treat that "standard boilerplate" as the most severe of warnings.
@@ronblack7870 The safety data sheet for the stuff does have toxicity testing info based on animal tests on it: skin and eye damage/irritation using rabbits, respiratory and skin sensitization using guinea pig, mutagenicity test with mice. It IS classified as a skin (category 2-reversible damage after up to several hours of exposure) and eye irritant (category 2B-damage reversible within 7 days) using OSHA categories, and chronic category 2 hazard to aquatic environments (toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects).
makes good sense. MOST pre-finished flooring now has a UV cured finish. The difference in durability is several times. Yeah, expensive, but seems like it might be worth it for certain things. I love Shellac because it is so easy to repair. But another reason is that the coating allows one to "see" into the wood. Think of musical instruments, most coatings are some type of shellac. My question is does this look a bit plastic like? does it really allow the beauty of the wood to shine thru? Thanks
I agree with you about shellac. But I would not use it on a coffee table or any piece that might get water or alcohol rings. On those, I would use a spit coat of shellac before topping it with a more durable finish.
Thank god I found this video before I bought arm-r-seal and a respirator. Just finished my walnut butcher block bar top with the satin, and it's beautiful. It is shockingly easy to apply, and I'm amazed at how little I used on 14 feet of butcher block. Wish I could share pictures here. Highly recommend!
I'm just getting into wood working myself and have been having difficulty in finding the right finish for my projects and absolutely hate having to sand between coats, this product sounds too good to be true!
This can be the very thing that guitar builders have been looking for. It's fast, it's thin, it's hard, it can be tinted, and a grain filler, too. What's. Not to love?
I work in the Label Printing industry where UV inks and coatings have been used in flexographic printing for a few decades now, unfortunately you may find that even this product may go the same way as the traditional varnishes as for the past several years regulators have been cracking down on the photo initiators used in UV coatings such as what will be in this product, and of course this leads to the product becoming more expensive, however a UV gloss varnish used in printing is about $20 per kilogram here in Australia. In fact I might grab a sample of our varnish and test it on a scrap piece of spotted gum.
@@davo-ju6ermost UV coatings used in litho applications won't hold up as a wood coating, thin film non absorbent substrate coatings would be better choice, test test test
This finish is amazing 🤩. My friend is using it in the last 2 years and I heard only good things from him. If it's shown in your channel now I hope it means that it will be more widely used and affordable soon 🙂
YES!!! Part of the reason I didn't like doing woodworking is no matter what I did, I couldn't get the finish to look nice - to me. Then there was the smell!! Pertnear passed out once. Thank you so very much!!! Gonna buy it and try a new project.
You are using finishes now? I work in autobody but have still only seen IV primers. I keep hearing that IV clears are on their way but I still haven’t heard of anyone using them yet.
Looks promising and sounds almost too good to be true. It will be interesting to see how it looks after a year or so. Can't wait for it to arrive in Australia.
I've been using these UV resins as glues for more than a year, in fact I started using them for creating clear volumes, varnishing and/or protecting small areas, etc. They're just fantastic. And fantastically expensive! Not for my needs, where I use minute amounts of the stuff, but for working large areas... no, I can't afford these UV resins in large quantities. But I agree, they are fantastic for wood and I have use them in the past for miniature bases.
I used Solariez grain filler on some oak night stands I made for my daughter. The product worked very well. You could see the grain in the oak but could not feel it. Perfectly smooth.
@@Mark-bn7lk Yeah, I have been thinking about trying their grain filler. I'm not particularly happy with the water based grain filler I have been using (takes too many coats). Just that I don't really want to buy the UV light too.
i bought and tried 2 different solar rez products ....they both sucked....and i repeatedly contacted them but they never responded....it also was fairly expensive....what a waste! Is this stuff better?? unless they send me a free sample to test, i'll never know.
looking at the SDS, I think your in the ballpark. might not have VOCs, but this stuff isnt exactly apple juice either. it does not endorse indoor application without a full face respirator.
And it expires in a year, so it's an ongoing expense if you're an amateur who doesn't use 3 quarts of finish in a year. Think I'll stick with my fumes.
@@StumpyNubs I mean, the price will go down in a few years if this turns into a viable product and a larger manufacturer picks it up. Economies of scale and selling this in single job quantities will do wonders to the price, but until then...
The thing is, if you replace a varnish with an 8 hour recoat time that has to be sanded between coats this is literally saving you an entire day of finishing. The varnish I use is about $75/qt so I'm spending an extra $75 but I'm getting my job out the door a day sooner and saving several hours in labor. Definitely worth it from a business perspective
Low budget alternative: The Sun emits pretty solid UV and I bet if you pick the right day it won't take much longer under direct sunlight. Might be an interesting test!
New subscriber here! You are right! This stuff is super expensive but I followed your link and read some q&a and asked some of my own questions. You really sold it to me and it's perfect for several pieces in my home. It just may be worth the investment 🙂
@@theoisis1You need protection from any UV light. Of course, if you use it quickly and it’s not aimed directly at you then it’s not a big deal. But if you use a UV light normally then it’s a good idea to protect yourself.
As a doctor who loves working with my hands but cares even more about health, I've never seen an acceptably safe photopolymer. Is this truly safe? Excerpts from its MSDS (satin version): "Avoid breathing dust/ fume ... Use only outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. ... Contaminated work clothing should not be allowed out of the workplace. [Uh, what do you do with it?] ... Avoid release to the environment. ... IF INHALED: Remove victim to fresh air and keep at rest in a position comfortable for breathing. ... Dispose of contents/ container to an approved waste disposal plant. [Yours is where?]" So, Stumpy (sorry, I don't know your name), do you still think this is safe? Lack of detectable odor is NOT an indicator of safety. Given the sordid track record of photopolymer safety, I wouldn't begin to trust this one unless its manufacturer thoroughly addressed this issue, explaining why every component of it is safe. In my experience, there is an inverse correlation between the acceptance of photopolymer by users and their ability to understand MSDS information. UPDATE: I posted a comment below in this thread elaborating on this issue.
Is any chemical "safe." Read the MTSD on any wood finish. Or glue. Or insect repellant, lawn fertilizer or anything else you use.... I said it doesn't require a mask to apply.
@@DougKonrad - I think "safe" is a relative term. If you work with it everyday, I'd be concerned with a lot of finishes! But the average weekend woodworker who watches this channel is a lot more likely to die from fried foods than he is getting a little polyurethane on his skin. Use common sense. Wear a respirator if a finish contains high VOC's, whenever spraying anything, or any other time you want because one thing we can all agree on, a little extra safety won't kill you, either.
They have an outdoor varient so I doubt it's an issue. The polymers will combine in the UV and then should be inert. This is basically dental filler in a big bottle.
@@Beakerbite UV cured dental fillers have not been used since the middle '70s. The resin that is used in dentistry today is polymerized by visible light (mostly blue, about 480-550nm). The old UV stuff was much too dangerous for use near patient's eyes.
WHAT??? TWO MINUTES??? Wow! I love the clear finish as that's my preference. Those UV activation products are amazing. Thanks for the product plug. Thanks for noting the finish description. I was wondering if it came in matte. Im going to look into this. Thanks Stumps!
@@StumpyNubs I haven't looked at the deets yet but if there is an outdoor version thats very durable and cures that quickly? Next you're going to tell me when comes time to re-coat, all you have to do is clean it. :) The amount of time this saves is unreal. curious if can tint it. great video. thank you
@@StumpyNubsI have tried the press drill sharpening system...garbage HF tools sand pepper is better than that 3m crap and 10 times less expensive. Trust me.
Is this product the same as 3D printer resin? The bottle looks similar. Sounds like a good idea. 3D printer resin also UV cures, but is cheap. I would not assume these UV resins are healthy.. some of these things are loaded with BPA. Would love to know what this product is based on. Thanks for the video!!
I’ve been using this stuff for about 3 months and did a whole bar furniture and bar top job and used this finish one the whole project and I absolutely love it. I had a few questions and they connected me to the chemist who makes it to order!! Super awesome company. This search for uv cure finishes stems from my use of uv resins in making surfboards and I’ve been waiting for the wood finish market to catch up. I think this might be it.
Thank you so much for presenting this. Can't wait to try it. Since it's UV curing and they make an outdoor version, it will be interesting to see how well it holds up under the Florida sun where I live.
I love the concept! It's always so funny to me how people want a Maserati for the price of a Pinto. I appreciate all the advantages, and even though many would consider the price the most significant disadvantage, I believe the positives far outweigh it. Once I finish up the finishes I have, I'm definitely in. ❤
Did you read the SDS? I particularly liked this sentence, "Product can undergo hazardous, exothermic polymerization". There's 9 pages of warnings and cautions ! I think this is the most hazardous finish I have ever heard of . The fact that it has no odor makes it more dangerous not less. Keep the phone number of your local poison control office handy.
Yeah uh that's a bad take. All resins can undergo exothermic polymerization, that's how they cure. I don't know of a wood finish that wouldn't have a couple of pages in an MSDS sheet either. Just call it what it is, a UV resin finish. Not new nor unsafe.
They sds is talking about in liquid form. There is no data on the cured form. My concern is it food safe. It seems that it isn't. Therefore don't use it on food preparation surfaces like spoken about in the video.
@@bobbray9666 So your an expert in that area are you? We don't have acetone in our gut if we did I might agree with you. The base ingredients are known (SDS) to be toxic, as the product is cured all of those toxins stay in the finish and don't evaporate away, that means they can accumulate in your body and be broken down by acids AND organisms. You don't need to be an expert to understand that basic fact.
@@bobbray9666A thing doesn't have to react with the food to be dangerous. The thing itself can be dangerous. Just think of poisons, radioactive elements, microplastics, etc to help conceptualize this.
Eyeglasses in the US aren't sold without UV blocking coatings. For that matter, most eyewear in the 'states uses either Acrylic or Polycarbonate for lenses, and *both* are opaque (or can be made so) to the entire UV spectrum. (Stumpy wears glasses) They don't give details about the wavelength other than it's the "safest"; many "UV" curing resins activate at 405 nm which is (only just) in the visible light range - 405 nm is technically outside the UV range. That wavelength is used for its safety, so I'll guess they use 405 nm. 405 nm from an LED source is (only just) outside the harmful range to unprotected eyeballs. It is not invisible; the LED lamp is producing light that is at the hairy edge of human vision's ability. We look away when it's too bright because it hurts. (Unless we start getting the light bulb equivalent to an audiophile... let's thank the maker For small favors!)
@@pariahzero thanks for the info! I’ve never used these lights myself, but saw another UA-camr (Blacktail Studios) comment that his hands got “sunburned” after working with one. He was also wearing sunglasses while working with one. Maybe the wavelength is specific to each light brand.
I'm not sure how fair it is to say "it's pretty expensive, but it'll last you 3x as long as poly!" Price for 1qt of poly: $17 Price for 1qt of this: $144 (8.5 cans of poly) Nubs, you gotta remember most of us don't have successful UA-cam channels or large furniture shops. This isn't just expensive, it's priced out of almost every woodworker I know. This is like the Festool Domino without the cheap alternatives.
@StumpyNubs Before I drop $160 on a quart, I need to know not only how well it will work in my shop but also the shelf life. I'm a small hobbyist, and if this stuff is concentrated, it may be a year or two before I use a quart. If there were a 4 or 8 ounce quantity available, then it would be worth trying, but not with a $160 price tag. Remember, most of your viewers are hobbyists not commercial shops.
Try Solarez "I can't believe it's not Lacquer". They have a 4'oz and a pint for 20.85 and 39.75 respectively. I've us the pint on about a dozen or so guitars and other smallish project. It powders up great when level sanding and can be buffed to a glass finish if need be. It's quite durable as well. I'm sorry to be pushing a different product but it's great for hobbyists like you and me. If you don't have UV lights, a nice sunny day will cure it in minutes as well and even a not so sunny day can work though it will take a bit longer.
❤Stuppy - thanks for once again introducing us to another provider that we might have missed. I don't understand all the negative comments that seem to imply that you are part of some evil conspiracy. You provided useful information about a new product. As for price and UV light dangers, we all have access to perfect information via the manufacturer or the internet or the CPSC or other regulatory agency.
They're cracking down on ethanol, too, which is absolutely ridiculous. It's hard to get denatured alcohol in California because alcohol is technically a volatile organic compound. Ethanol vapors are safe to be around, but the laws are written stupidly.
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
HOLY COW ! $154? I thought OK, that's a gallon. Nope $154 & up for a quart! For the 2 projects a year that I do, I can find another finish, and take a couple days to finish it.
Yes, it's about twice the cost per square foot of coverage of a high quality polyurethane. (Give or take.) But I like to hear about exciting things even if they don't end up being a perfect fit for every shop or budget. :)
@@johnlucaiii9495 Lights are a one time cost. I don't count the price of my table saw when I calculate how much a project is going to cost. There are plenty of woodworking tools in most shops that cost a fair amount, but are used for many projects over many years.
Please do more real world testing on this. How does it handle being applied vertically, like spindles or legs? How does it interact with other finishes/stains? I feel sorry for anyone complaining about the price. The 2-minute curing time alone should make up for it…
omg. i have been sealing my wood windchimes with led/uv top coat gel nail polish for yrs. same thing. also impervious to acetone. has to be filed or sanded off. amazing the uses of such a versatile product that crosses many media's including with uses and applications. mind blown.
All glassy finishes have to be achieved by fine sanding. Unsure about the machineability of this but I doubt it's worse than poly. Plus no guessing if it's ready to buff.
I was using the solar rez can’t believe it’s not lacquer till I found this. The clean armor is a superior product. I’m half way through my 3rd qt now. $160 qt sounds expensive but it goes a really long way. I keep a little roller tray with foam roller going, pour it on and roll it out, let it soak for a min then use a vinyl application squeegee to wipe all the excess back into the tray to reuse. Wrap the tray in a piece of black plastic trash bag and put in a big ziplock till next time. Using 100w Amazon blacklight floods by the way, used a $25 20w first with no issues just wanted to cover a bigger area.
@@getdirecti0ns I'm curious what aspects are superior. If it's a more reliable product, I'd absolutely pay more for it. The biggest issues I have with solarez are the leveling (or lack of) and the witness lines.
@@chadstruzynski I had issues with the solar rez being gummy sometimes when sanding even after extra curing time. Also some batches were much harder to sand than others. The clean armor also doesn’t have much smell compared to the solarez. It doesn’t seem to self level all that well tho. I’ve tried hitting it with a heat gun and torch as you might with epoxy, doesn’t seem to like that lol. I haven’t tried spraying it on as I don’t like the idea of airborneing something that won’t cure on its own in my shop.
I have been using Liberon oil from the UK on my guitars and mandolins. This is a wipe on similar to Tru Oil. Works well on my instruments and also easy to fix any scratches.
1) When I clicked on this I absolutely expected a UV epoxy or other UV product. Looks like I'm spot on. 2) UV curing products produce VOCs. While they don't contain VOCs technically ("0 VOC"), when the catalyzing compound is exposed to UV light, it will release a VOC gas. This is inherent with all UV curing compounds as far as I'm aware.
@@mckenziekeith7434 not necessarily, there's a lot of uv stable resins out there. But that doesn't really matter either way. His selling point for this is that its zero voc, which almost certainly isn't true. The product itself may be 0-voc, but the second its hit with UV light it'll begin releasing VOC gasses.
These types of finishes hold a lot of promise, but my two reservations are the price and the look. These finishes, that I have seen, have a plastic feel and look that I don't like. I do think with time the UV finishes will get better in their look, feel, and price.
James, thanks for presenting an additional finishing option. If you look at the product from a cost / benefit view, it makes good economic sense. I can see where this product and process could be extremely helpful when you have time constraints or restricted amount of space. I would guess most of us use different finishes for different projects, just one more to add to the arsenal. The cost of the finish is still way below all the investment you have made prior to applying a finish. There is nothing more economically maddening than ruining, or diminishing a project on the final step. Over the years you have presented a vast number of cost-saving options, sponsored or not is immaterial to me. Thanks!!!
Have you ever tried Odie’s oil? Beautiful results, easy to use and non-toxic. It is also important to note that not all compounds that are volatile are toxic. Odie’s gives off a really enjoyable, non-toxic scent. No respirators.
I would consider this as a basement woodworker. I can't have fumes in the house, and I don't have extra drying space. Also I'm impressed by its resistance to those liquids. The lights they sell though are outrageously expensive; if it works with cheaper UV lights then I might well try the product.
@@StumpyNubs my mistake. Didn't realize it covered so much more area than an equivalent amount of oil poly. Have a feeling it won't really ever be applicable to DIY'ers, but if you're running a commercial workshop it sounds great.
They cure in the same way and probably have very similar ingredient lists in differing amounts. UV cured finishes are nothing new but I think the turn towards consumers is due to the availability of high output UV LEDs.
I was wondering if the exterior products provide UV protection (I know that sounds odd considering you use UV light to cure it), but the website didn;t mention it. Does anyone know?
Honestly, I wish companies would just do a comparison chart of all their products, how the performance and types of applications differ and what they would suggest they be used for beyond a general - for indoors, for outdoors.
probably, if is exposed to direct sunlight for too long it will start to crack and exfoliate. For example, in automotive paint, they use an additive wich when the paint cures it forms UV protective layer. If you were to buff the like many "pros" advertise is safe to do. You would remove that UV protective layer, sure it shines like new, for few months at least anway. After that the sun will fry the paint. So in simple words, YOU NEVER BUFF your auto paint or the lacquer. You only do that if you play to add another coat of lacquer or paint. Is the same with headlights and other plastics.Once you removed that layer of UV protection the sun will eat through it very quick. And if your paint thing stays under direct sunlight like veryday, at some point, after some years it will eventually destroy that UV protection layer. I speak about automotive paint here. I am no expert in this, i painted my car once and had to do some research. And i am amaized how many "experts" claim is safe to buff your last layer of paint or lacquer when that is the most important one and it should be painted flawless, simply because you cannot buff it, if you want it to last as long as the factory paint. First of all even if this finish has UV protection in it wich i doubt it, because then why would the automotive industry just simply not use this paint, the time it takes to cure would save alot of money for them. But let's say it has. The wood doesn't have UV protection, and eventually it will yellow out or change color. I know there is bondo for car repairs wich cures under uv light, same stuff as this. Only it has some chalk in it. And i know bondo is not uv resistant. But i do know there are many epoxy brands wich offer uv protection. This stuff seems like any resins, very brittle, wich means if you do not seal your wood perfectly and use this stuff on it when the moisture is very low in it, it will eventually move and start to exfoliate. This is why oils is preferable for wood finish or other kind of paints and clear finish wich is more elastic and moves with the wood fibers. Polyurethane, acrilic water paints for example.
definitely keeping this in mind for various projects i have that i would love to use a product like this for. Expensive, yes, but if i want it to last then it is worth it to me. I will be buying this in the future as soon as i get around to doing wood projects again after my priority projects are done around the house.
That was amazing, acetone is how I learned how fragile my tabletop finishes actually are. One drop usually will make you have to re seal the whole piece
@@chris-edward2264 my question is if you have already bought (or are planning to buy) this expensive finish from that company, why not buy the lamp along with it?
Looks very good. I am blown away by the durability and finish, and doubly blown away by the price! For a small projects woodworker like myself, I'll stick to mineral oil and wax.
What’s with all the people bellyaching about the price? Stumpy made a video to demonstrate a new finish. Does every video have to be about something immediately relevant and practical to the viewers? Is there no intellectual curiosity about interesting developments in the woodworking industry, even if they don’t necessarily apply to you, the viewer? Cut Stumpy some slack. Just chill out and enjoy the vid. Stumpy, interesting video! I probably won’t have a need for the product, but I’m impressed with it! I like these kinds of vids. 👍
It is almost always the case that a new technology or product that is a game changer carries a high purchase cost until the product becomes broadly adopted by the main industry manufacturers then the economics of scale kick in and bring the product cost down significantly.
Ooooh...just like nail fingernail shellac that cures with special lights! Soooo cool to apply to wood. Will this go on after stains and previous finish jobs without much sanding?
Twice the cost notwithstanding results in the ability to sell, ship & profit sooner. No to mention it's the better option to not having the availability of finishes in states where the alternatives are outright banned but...to each their own
If U V light is what cures the finish. Does that mean you should not apply the finish in direct sunlight because of the UV rays? I do a lot of my finishing work in my driveway because I do not have a shop, just a shed holding my tools. Thank you for your informative and educational program.
Sounds like a terrific product/technology, and I'd like to say that I'm looking forward to using it, though at that price I'll have to wait until market forces and/or competition bring some sort of equivalent product into the realm of people like myself. Cheers.
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a 2-minute finish? *Immediate click*... and I like the Bob Vila beard, very nice.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Big question: is it non-yellowing? Odd question: Could it be thinned and applied to paper? Canvas?
You can use any european method with natural components, used by centuries and don't cost yo this price. Anyway en Europe using wooden instruments in the kitchen for instance is prohibited by higigienics.
Is that also 2 minutes in sunlight? Or how long does it take to cure in solar UV?
@@rodanvsandrew cardstock?
Jim, after I used clear armor to finish an oak cabinet I built for my computer and supplies, I had to drop you a note of thanks for turning me on to this product. Everything you said about it was spot on. The finish, I used satin cured as planned and I needed to do a quick 400 grit interim sanding to smooth it all out. My wife and I are both asthmatics, so conventional finishes have been problematic for us. This was, as you put it, a "Game Changer". No odor, beautiful finish, and ease of use. I did notice that all the demos of the product were on a single board. I had a fully assembled cabinet. I removed all the doors, drawer slides, hinges, etc. and finished the removable parts separately. The cabinet I just turned to orient the part I was finishing on a horizontal plane and finished it that way. All in all I couldn't be happier with the result. Thanks for the turn on!
Dennis Freeman
Cam from Black Tail Studios mentioned wearing thicker darker gloves and long sleeves when using the UV light finishes. He mentioned feeling a bit sunburned after using a handled UV light to cure his finish and talked to a medical professional friend who said that those UV lights are significantly more powerful than UV from the sun. Don't want skin cancer of course.
Yep he did and if you plan to use UV cured finish I would strongly advise to do when you doing hand curing, but in this case he has separate UV curing room with ceiling mounted lights so he probably just walk out and turns lights on for 2 - 3 min.
He has a much more intense industrial UV light that blasts wayyy more light than seen here. Always good to be protected but the light quantity from this is probably less than 5% of the one Cam is using.
@@loganscelina Yes, agree. The lights used with this product are the same kind of UV you would see at a "Blacklight party", and no one gets sunburned by those. The one Cam uses is more akin to a tanning bed, and exposure to that will light you up. The cost of the handheld light sold for use with this product is $289, the cheap light for used with Vesting LED oil is $1,000. That's not the one Cam is using. He's using one 4 or 5 time larger than that in his videos and is over $4,000, which of course, didn't come out of his pocket. So this is a BIG difference. And the Vesting oil appears to be for indoor use only. So this is a REALLY big deal. I can't wait to try it. Scott from Japan
It's literally a strong tanning bed light. Protect your skin yo.
He has a massively powerful UV light that requires a huge actively cooled power supply. The one in this video is tiny, the website says 36W.
OK, I am absolutely blown away by the acetone test. That defies all my expectations!
... some quick lateral reading of the MSDS, photoinitiators, and what acetone doesn't attack, and I'm going to guess that the finished product is a polyethylene. Which is to say that is such an awesome application of modern chemistry and material sciences!
You should be blown away by the staggering price of over $500 a gallon.
reacts to solvent the same as any 3d printer resin, at six times the cost.
@@paulbriggs3072It is always the way when the product is new and low volume production. If the main industry adopts the product then costs come down dramatically.
Yeah, that was something else
Old school refinishing.
Ammonia to remove the old finish.
Linseed oil.
Bees wax to seal.
I used this method on a 100 year old rocker 50 years ago and the finish is still beautiful!
I like how the old school finish is all biodegradable. That UV cure epoxy will just end up in the food chain along with all the other micro plastic poisoning our food supply and bodies.
I went to an Amish furniture shop near Lawrenceburg, TN last year and the odor of beeswax-linseed/mineral oil mix hit me the moment I walked into the shop. One of the owners’ sons was applying a hand-rubbed finish on a beautifully crafted (yet already spoken for) walnut dining table and chair set. I don’t know the exact proportions but the finish was flawless, better than any factory polymer I’ve ever seen. Stock up folks, EPA’s still open for business.
Yes! Yes! And even older finish- ebonized wood finish with rust and vinegar then boiled linseed oil to moisten. Finish with beeswax to seal. Polish. Lasts hundreds of years, bugs won't eat it, and it's moisture and mold protection. Nature is best, and usually cheaper. Only downside to this process is the only color stain you get is black or dark brown. I did this process on a piece of holly wood. It came out a warm chocolate color.
"50 years ago and the finish is still beautiful!" that is the problem we aren't supposed to have anything that lasts anymore, If something lasts we don't buy a new one. Planned Obsolescence.
Depends what you’re going for. Doing that finish would look awful on a piano compared to a high gloss polished or a hand satinized lacquer finish.
Also linseed oil ruins the acoustic properties of tone woods, so it’s a double no go for pianos/guitars
This is why i love the community amongst "builders" or "makers." When you find something that's incredible and works super well all you want to do is share it with others so they can reap the same benefits!
Glad to see this product is getting more videos. I used the outdoor satin on an outdoor set (6 person table with glass inlay, a two person bench and 2 chairs) and I used the same outdoor version on a ~2,5m (~8'4'') floating cabinet and a waterfall style couch table and I still got some stuff left in the 1quart (~0.95l) bottle.
I didn't go to heavy on the coats, because I want to feel the wood grains and not a sheet of pastic. You can coat a huge area with that bottle and also it is more expensive than some finishes, it is still a very good price for what you get.
This will 100% be my choice for my kitchen countertops and indoor windowsills, that I will made out of walnut, or acacia. Prolly for anything I'm going to build in my new home.
On tip tho, don't buy the UV lights they are offering. Way to expensive, compared to cheap ones from amazon and co. with the same output.
Also, always wear UV blocking glases when working with UV lights. Long sleeves and gloves are not really important, if you don't use UV lights in super industrial strenght, like Cam (Blacktail) is using.
TL;DR for me, this is the new Rubio Monocoat in terms of usability. Just like 3m cubitron sandpaper is just better. For cutting boards / wooden kitchen tools I still use my personal blend with beeswax and mineral spirits.
How does it sand? If you sand through a layer do you see along the edge the layer below it (witness line), that is the problem with these products. I no longer use Solarez for this reason.
@@billysmether6237 I only sanded my indoor projects, but the surface was very smooth before I applied the finish. 320 grid on walnut. I sanded the coats with 600grid and VERY lightly with no preassure and by hand, so I didn't sand thru the finish. Dunno how it behaves on very grainy wood. Sandig itself was no problem at all and in my case 100% not neccessary.
BUT I read about the problem with sanding thru the coat and getting lines on the edge before I used it, so I was really carefull.
@@billysmether6237I’ve used the Wood 700 in gloss and satin. The gloss sands fine, satin is much harder to sand as the flattening agent is silica based. So I use the gloss till the final coat then use the satin.
If you have a business where shipping or delivery time is important, this would have a major impact. I never feel comfortable sticking a smelly project in a box to a customer.
Thanks James, I will visit the site to see if there are long term tests they’ve done for color!
Happy to see UV acrylic make its way into so many useful applications! I will almost certainly be using this for my desk. It's amusing because I've been wearing variations on the formula for nail enhancements, where it has been a staple product for over a decade! Thank you for this great tip!
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
Holy Festool of finishes, Batman!
😅 good one
I like the classic ways of woodworking, including the process of applying oiled based finishes. Should I mention I love the smell of oil based finishes. 😂
I can see how this can be a game-changer for furniture factories which use massive amounts of finishes.
I dated an Art Major in college... The smeill of turpentine always brings me back!!
I dont think any factories would pay this money for a finish.
I don't know. For many of my home projects the time spent prepping and waiting for a cure and sanding and prepping is a big blocker.
These UV curing finishes are gorgeous just a bit outside of my budget. I first saw them on another wood workers channel. Fabulous idea
black studio?
Solarez is a bit cheaper and it's pretty decent.
@@ReallyBadJuJu Yeah. UV resins aren't new. However Solarez does have VOCs, so I think that's where the differentiator is.
@mesoed that bottle looks suspiciously like a 3d printing resin bottle. It could just that it is the same bottle because why re-invent the wheel, but I might have to try some clear printer resin on a piece of scrap and see what happens.
The cheaper stuff stinks to high heaven but you can get some really low odour stuff and it's not terribly expensive.
@@myopinion69420Let us know how it goes.
At over $500/gal, it better be the holy grail!
I guess it’s good ol’ polyurethane for me….my time isn’t worth $542/gal 😂
This is crazy expensive.
That price makes it a game changer. I’ll stick to linseed.
5 gallons is CAD$3,700.
The need for VOC finishes has been increasing for years. I started with early acrylic finishes in medical offices with no complaints. My art paintings early on soured me on the horribly dysfunctional European medieval era tech tube oil paints with linseed oil as the carrier. Searching options I ran across new Genesis art paint in special containers. The paint never dries nor cures so adjustments can easily be made many months later. When ready the paint is set by the use of a hair dryer heat or s heat gun. Perfect control over medium. Tube paint is approximately 25% solids the rest are volatiles. The Genesis paint is 100% solids with 0 waste. The Clean Armor formula functions exactly the same way only with a UV set popular with craft people. When you actually do the math on usable product vs solvent volatiles wasted the gallon price becomes more attractive as the shelf life is near eternal. This video is about introductory wood finish. To stand out from the herd to earn more this finish offers decorative possibilities impossible with VOC finishes. Also, this product is merely the opening salvo of new product concepts already in use with other people. The correct terms are VOC dries, catalytic resins cure, and UV Heat sets. Thanks Mr Nubs for opening the door.
Holy Crap. I'm impressed. I have a small shop and make tabletops for a living. This really would be a game changer. I'm going to go check it out now. Thanks for sharing!
Any update?
@@Tiller.McC352 they aren’t done reading the zeros. Give them another 4 months.
Wow. Expensive finish. Hope a competitor comes along with a similar product and can bring cost down.
It'll be made in China soon.
There have been companies producing uv cured wood finishes for years now. All of them are expensive tho.
I doubt this company actually physically produces this product on its own factory line. Someone else is likely producing and packaging for them. That said, they still might be your best source.
Keep in mind it goes three times further than solvent based finishes so one quart is really three quarts. Being able to do all your finish coats in one go, inside, and then immediately use the furniture is also worth something. Can’t expect it to be the same price as polyurethane.
I but you can get the same result with a water washable 3d printing resin. You can but 3d print resin for resin printers and they now offer water washable versions. They all cure with UV light, that is how resin printers work. You can buy 1kg for 20 to 30$ and I can almost bet you could find one that gives you the exact same result. Just my 2cents.
A non-negligible difference might be the smell. AFAIK, the 3D printing resins *can* be rather smelly, requiring good ventilation. So they have some sort of VOCs.
Since uncured resin is considered toxic, I would be careful with this uncured wood finish and avoid getting it on skin.
Wow that’s insane!! Definitely a game changer. To eliminate drying time, drying space in the shop and not have to worry about it curing until you want it to. Incredible!
No off gassing is a huge deal for those of us who work out of our garage and don’t live alone
Interesting. I remember in printing, we used UV coatings back in the early 90s. You got to love tried and true old technology to modern applications.
Yeah I was in Printing too, I've used UV inks on Web Presses where the Web was Cured by a UV source. I would use a Vendor for UV Coating, so I never knew exactly what was in the work flow of that, however I personally didn't like the look of the UV Gloss, yeah it was "shiny" but it always had and uneven finish, the Varnish we used for Gloss or Matte from a Printing unit left a smooth as glass
finish....then they came out with Aqueous Coating which was almost as shiny as UV but it was smooth as glass and dried very quickly and very hard, I would think if you have a local Printer that has a Press with a Coating Tower, I bet you could get few ounces to try out and have chat about the "old Days".... this stuff here is $154.00 a Qt. < I'll pass
Ha! Check out the Tried and True brand wood finishes.
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
@@ELROCKETEER I was thinking this too. It just sounds like either Clear 3D Resin or the varnish coating I use in UV printing. If so, this is a really expensive product that costs 4x more than the others. And $300 for a 12" UV lamp is scandalous!!
@@stockportstev dont need uv lamp...the sun will do it..
I love that you pitch $900 spiral planing blades and $144/qt finishes. They all look fantastic and I'll never be able to afford any of them. Just foolin', you do give us plenty of affordable tips and I appreciate that.
I talk about plenty of tips, techniques and tools that save you money, as well.
@@StumpyNubs I know. I was just having some fun. You have already saved me money on several purchases where I might have spent more unknowingly.
My only problem with your expensive recommendations is that I really really want them!
@@tombiggs4687 Not everything that is expensive once, costs you more in the long run. Ofcourse there is the high entry cost, but if it last 10x as long and is only 5x as expensive, it saves you money in the end. Same with stuff that safes you alot of time, when you get paid by the hour. Best example may be the Domino. There is simply no way, to be as precise and quick as with a Domino.
On average, the most expensive products are the best products. Not always the case. But in general.
Knowing that the product exists is helpful, because it is technology aimed at woodworkers, and wood, not surfboards or printing presses, industries who also use UV cured resin finishes.
So I’ll take these really pricy products and see if I can beat the price some other way.
You get what you pay for.
Great idea, just wish it was more affordable. Thank you for the great overview.
Tooo dear
@@d.k.1394 Not if you are making tables for a living. The two minute drying time is a game changer. That's not even long enough for a fly to land on it!
My quart of table top finish arrived in two days!! Goofed around today with some scraps of wood - quilted maple, chestnut, walnut, 30 year old yellow pine, spruce.. Wow! This stuff rocks! Beautiful finish with fast drying. Can't wait to haul my dining room table outside tomorrow for a long overdue refinish! Grateful for your video!! And all those griping about the price - try a quart, you'll be sold! The result is well worth the cost. Oh, and that maple is spectacular. Light sanding with 400 between coats, wow!
How much was it?
It's not the price of the product it's the hundreds of dollars required for the UV lights
Thank you for showcasing this product. What I really like about the UV light curing is the 2 minutes to cure to a rock hard finish. I found that I could sand the surface, vacuum and apply the next coat within 10 minutes. No more waiting for days after each sanding for the finish to dry.
So glad to see this being posted! A company I was previously at was working with Clean Armor for for UV set metal finishes. I did all I could to see if I could get a sample jug of their wood finish, but it never worked out
There's only mild if any differences. Mostly to do with cured hardness and adhesion qualities. I can use the automotive clear for brushed on wood finish. (From their mouths not mine)
I've had great success using clear 3d printer resin to finish kitchen knife handles. You can get a liter for $20, it's extremely durable, and it sands and polishes out to a beautiful finish. To cure it, a UV LED lamp or flashlight will do the trick for small objects.
How's it feel?
That was my first thought too; that's it's a UV-cured resin just like with 3D printers.
@@Shangster949 The 3d printer resins do stink though and word is frequent contact can cause sensitivities. Though that was my thought at first too. This must be something different but probably using similar chemistry.
What brands do you recommend and do they do matt finishes?
Damn, thats a good idea!! might have to give that a try
I've been using water based Varathane Polyurethane and Minwax Polyacrylic for about 10 yrs now. I have put them on guitars and so they get some wear. I like the Varathane best for necks and bodies. I have used them in combination layering to see if they would flake off , they didn't. There is also a great set of water based stains that can be mixed with oil or water based finishes and paints. I used a red stain with some white nitro lacquer to get a unique shade of pink for a Bass I did for a friend. I saw it on TV with a Punk band. He had sold it. Mixol is the brand and they are highly concentrated. It is the same thing StewMac sells. Woodcraft carries them. There about 30 colors and wood tones. I can match anything for finish repair. I can do almost all my work inside. That is great since I live in Houston and the heat humidity and bugs are major problem. Even taking a neck outside to give it a cost with a spray can is risky. Odds are bug will have found you.
I'm curious, how much of a difference have you observed between Varathane and Polycrylic? I've got polycrylic on a computer desk I built for myself, and my parents recently got some varathane for a project of their own, and looking at the cans they look to be pretty similar products.
@@reaganharder1480 Acrylic is harder and has more friction on the guitar necks.Varathane has a better feel and lacquer look. That important for guitars. That said the Varathane is holding up fine. For regular woodwork either is fine. Seems like the varathane might melt into itself a bit better. I prefer the V for guitars.
Try General Finishes High Performance. It sprays well, feels good and is very durable so you can get away with a very thin finish.
Hopped into comments looking for this.
I've been seeing water based Varathane clear recently, which can be tinted by the can in the store. Really wish I could get the color tints themselves.
For that bass you built, was the white nitro Duplicolor or was it the stuff from StewMac?
What is the water based stuff you mentioned that can be mixed with water or oil based color finishes?
I'm building four guitars at the moment, and more to come in the future. Always looking for great finish products. Thanks!
@@peachmelba1000 I've been using Target Coatings water based finished for several years now, I really like their conversion varnish and have had good results with their lacquer. The sell a good variety of tints.
I’ve been using Rubio Monocoat for a few years now, it’s not cheap goes a long way easy to apply and only requires one coat. It’s durable and meets all safety standards and is VOC free. The best stuff I have ever used and comes in a vast range of colours Food safe and child safe, it’s a remarkable product 👍👍
Do they have an exterior product? What is the difference of expected durability to sun/rain/snow vs other varnishes?
I've been dabbling with the craft for a few years, and yours is the best woodworking channel I've seen. Thank you!
One important thing to note: The SDS/TDS clearly state that you should be using gloves and a respirator, and to only apply it outdoors or in well-ventilated areas.This looks a lot like the products from Vesting, though Vesting emphasizes theirs being a hardwax, and the SDS for Clean Armor suggests it's more like a resin/urethane.
well that is standard boilerplate . and they don't know the long term effects of the stuff anyway. that would take a whole bunch of animal studies starting with mice. we all thought teflon was safe till now it's alleged to be toxic.
@@ronblack7870 And you know this is "standard boilerplate" how? No chemicals are listed, which means it's a proprietary formula so either you don't actually know, or you do and are somehow speaking on behalf of the company without their lawyers' approval. P.S. Your example doesn't support your argument … "assumed safe but we now know better" means we should treat that "standard boilerplate" as the most severe of warnings.
@@ronblack7870 The safety data sheet for the stuff does have toxicity testing info based on animal tests on it: skin and eye damage/irritation using rabbits, respiratory and skin sensitization using guinea pig, mutagenicity test with mice. It IS classified as a skin (category 2-reversible damage after up to several hours of exposure) and eye irritant (category 2B-damage reversible within 7 days) using OSHA categories, and chronic category 2 hazard to aquatic environments (toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects).
Applying a UV finish outside is gonna be a nightmare.
@@Rob-Hannon lol.. my exact thought. how can they recommend that?
makes good sense. MOST pre-finished flooring now has a UV cured finish. The difference in durability is several times. Yeah, expensive, but seems like it might be worth it for certain things. I love Shellac because it is so easy to repair. But another reason is that the coating allows one to "see" into the wood. Think of musical instruments, most coatings are some type of shellac. My question is does this look a bit plastic like? does it really allow the beauty of the wood to shine thru? Thanks
I agree with you about shellac. But I would not use it on a coffee table or any piece that might get water or alcohol rings. On those, I would use a spit coat of shellac before topping it with a more durable finish.
I mean shellac is technically a plastic.
Great Video as always! I def feel like this finish has a time and place. I am glad it exists.
Thank god I found this video before I bought arm-r-seal and a respirator. Just finished my walnut butcher block bar top with the satin, and it's beautiful. It is shockingly easy to apply, and I'm amazed at how little I used on 14 feet of butcher block. Wish I could share pictures here. Highly recommend!
I'm just getting into wood working myself and have been having difficulty in finding the right finish for my projects and absolutely hate having to sand between coats, this product sounds too good to be true!
This can be the very thing that guitar builders have been looking for. It's fast, it's thin, it's hard, it can be tinted, and a grain filler, too. What's. Not to love?
The price 😂
The price!!! Dis you see that it STARTS at $133???
Yes, the price is high for sure, but the amount of time save is more than worth the cost if it truly works for a guitar finish.
That's exactly what brought me to this video. Its expensive but I'm intrigued enough that I just may buy a bottle.
Yeah guitars sell pretty well with a chunky price so I'd wager it's viable in that craft for sure.
I work in the Label Printing industry where UV inks and coatings have been used in flexographic printing for a few decades now, unfortunately you may find that even this product may go the same way as the traditional varnishes as for the past several years regulators have been cracking down on the photo initiators used in UV coatings such as what will be in this product, and of course this leads to the product becoming more expensive, however a UV gloss varnish used in printing is about $20 per kilogram here in Australia. In fact I might grab a sample of our varnish and test it on a scrap piece of spotted gum.
let us know how you go mate .
@@davo-ju6ermost UV coatings used in litho applications won't hold up as a wood coating, thin film non absorbent substrate coatings would be better choice, test test test
Imagine if they cared this much about pesticides or food additives.
They are getting there on pesticide,but they do nothing about the poison they’re feeding us
This finish is amazing 🤩. My friend is using it in the last 2 years and I heard only good things from him. If it's shown in your channel now I hope it means that it will be more widely used and affordable soon 🙂
YES!!! Part of the reason I didn't like doing woodworking is no matter what I did, I couldn't get the finish to look nice - to me. Then there was the smell!! Pertnear passed out once. Thank you so very much!!! Gonna buy it and try a new project.
Lol you said pertnear. My mom used to say that , although with a t on the end. Are you from Arkansas?
Thank you for bringing these types of things to your viewer's attention. I look forward to trying this.
We use uv cured finishes in the auto body industry. It's amazing stuff.
You are using finishes now? I work in autobody but have still only seen IV primers. I keep hearing that IV clears are on their way but I still haven’t heard of anyone using them yet.
Looks promising and sounds almost too good to be true. It will be interesting to see how it looks after a year or so. Can't wait for it to arrive in Australia.
Don't hold your breath, and if it's AUD200/L in Canada you can bet it will be AUD450 by the time it gets here.
@@bluewren65 That's the price one pays for living in "The Lucky Country" 😮💨 ... which increasingly feels less lucky.
@@-MacCat- It's the FU country now.
I've been using these UV resins as glues for more than a year, in fact I started using them for creating clear volumes, varnishing and/or protecting small areas, etc. They're just fantastic. And fantastically expensive! Not for my needs, where I use minute amounts of the stuff, but for working large areas... no, I can't afford these UV resins in large quantities. But I agree, they are fantastic for wood and I have use them in the past for miniature bases.
I was told by a burro harvester. It work like WOWOWOW!!! Way cool yes we can get in California! Good stuff dude! Lol
Solarez has a wide range of similar UV cure finishes, grain sealers etc. Seems to be roughly half the price. Would have been nice to compare.
Sure but as it said at the bottom of the screen, they sponsored this video...
Yup, Id love to know why this is a better product, if at all...
I used Solariez grain filler on some oak night stands I made for my daughter. The product worked very well. You could see the grain in the oak but could not feel it. Perfectly smooth.
@@Mark-bn7lk Yeah, I have been thinking about trying their grain filler. I'm not particularly happy with the water based grain filler I have been using (takes too many coats). Just that I don't really want to buy the UV light too.
i bought and tried 2 different solar rez products ....they both sucked....and i repeatedly contacted them but they never responded....it also was fairly expensive....what a waste! Is this stuff better?? unless they send me a free sample to test, i'll never know.
Looks like its basically clear 3d printer resin. Even comes in the same bottle. Interesting application of that material.
So does peroxide and a zillion other light sensitive things ...
@@RICDirector sure, but this also has identical properties to 3d printer resin, so...
looking at the SDS, I think your in the ballpark. might not have VOCs, but this stuff isnt exactly apple juice either. it does not endorse indoor application without a full face respirator.
Has anyone actually tried SLA resin on wood?
@@creepyloner1979 Would using the 3D stuff work on wood ya think? Standard or High Clear?
Im digging the new concept.. But $450 to get started with a little light and a quart of shine juice? Thats insane..
And it expires in a year, so it's an ongoing expense if you're an amateur who doesn't use 3 quarts of finish in a year.
Think I'll stick with my fumes.
I like to hear about new, exciting things even if they are not a good fit for my shop or budget. :)
@@StumpyNubs I mean, the price will go down in a few years if this turns into a viable product and a larger manufacturer picks it up. Economies of scale and selling this in single job quantities will do wonders to the price, but until then...
The thing is, if you replace a varnish with an 8 hour recoat time that has to be sanded between coats this is literally saving you an entire day of finishing. The varnish I use is about $75/qt so I'm spending an extra $75 but I'm getting my job out the door a day sooner and saving several hours in labor. Definitely worth it from a business perspective
Low budget alternative: The Sun emits pretty solid UV and I bet if you pick the right day it won't take much longer under direct sunlight. Might be an interesting test!
New subscriber here! You are right! This stuff is super expensive but I followed your link and read some q&a and asked some of my own questions. You really sold it to me and it's perfect for several pieces in my home. It just may be worth the investment 🙂
Cam at Blacktail Studio has been using a finish that's cured with UV for a while. He seems to swear by it, but everything he uses is very expensive.
He also wears long sleeves and protective gloves when using the UV light.
Don't forget sunglasses. @@theoisis1
he also charges like 5000$ for a coffee table.
@@bseant420thats what anybody would charge for similar tables
@@theoisis1You need protection from any UV light. Of course, if you use it quickly and it’s not aimed directly at you then it’s not a big deal. But if you use a UV light normally then it’s a good idea to protect yourself.
As a doctor who loves working with my hands but cares even more about health, I've never seen an acceptably safe photopolymer. Is this truly safe?
Excerpts from its MSDS (satin version): "Avoid breathing dust/ fume ... Use only outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. ... Contaminated work clothing should not be allowed out of the workplace. [Uh, what do you do with it?] ... Avoid release to the environment. ... IF INHALED: Remove victim to fresh air and keep at rest in a position comfortable for breathing. ... Dispose of contents/ container to an approved waste disposal plant. [Yours is where?]"
So, Stumpy (sorry, I don't know your name), do you still think this is safe? Lack of detectable odor is NOT an indicator of safety. Given the sordid track record of photopolymer safety, I wouldn't begin to trust this one unless its manufacturer thoroughly addressed this issue, explaining why every component of it is safe. In my experience, there is an inverse correlation between the acceptance of photopolymer by users and their ability to understand MSDS information.
UPDATE: I posted a comment below in this thread elaborating on this issue.
Is any chemical "safe." Read the MTSD on any wood finish. Or glue. Or insect repellant, lawn fertilizer or anything else you use.... I said it doesn't require a mask to apply.
This was my takeaway too. The fact it does not talk about food safety is my largest concern. So keep it away from the kitchen.
What wood finishes do you consider safe?
@@DougKonrad - I think "safe" is a relative term. If you work with it everyday, I'd be concerned with a lot of finishes! But the average weekend woodworker who watches this channel is a lot more likely to die from fried foods than he is getting a little polyurethane on his skin. Use common sense. Wear a respirator if a finish contains high VOC's, whenever spraying anything, or any other time you want because one thing we can all agree on, a little extra safety won't kill you, either.
@@DeveloperChrisyou probably need a special certification to state that. And for a small business it is a process to get
What about its UV resistance? How long would it last outdors?
They have an outdoor varient so I doubt it's an issue. The polymers will combine in the UV and then should be inert. This is basically dental filler in a big bottle.
@@Beakerbite UV cured dental fillers have not been used since the middle '70s. The resin that is used in dentistry today is polymerized by visible light (mostly blue, about 480-550nm). The old UV stuff was much too dangerous for use near patient's eyes.
WHAT??? TWO MINUTES??? Wow! I love the clear finish as that's my preference. Those UV activation products are amazing. Thanks for the product plug. Thanks for noting the finish description. I was wondering if it came in matte. Im going to look into this.
Thanks Stumps!
This is amazing, I assume it can also cure simply by exposure to sunlight as well? I will definitely use this for at least some situations!
Happy with shellac.
That's great. I love shellac. But it's not comparable in terms of protection.
@@StumpyNubs I haven't looked at the deets yet but if there is an outdoor version thats very durable and cures that quickly? Next you're going to tell me when comes time to re-coat, all you have to do is clean it. :)
The amount of time this saves is unreal. curious if can tint it. great video. thank you
@@StumpyNubsI have tried the press drill sharpening system...garbage HF tools sand pepper is better than that 3m crap and 10 times less expensive. Trust me.
For outdoor rain/snow/sun protection on a knotty alder door? How much longer vs a good varnish?
Is this product the same as 3D printer resin? The bottle looks similar. Sounds like a good idea. 3D printer resin also UV cures, but is cheap. I would not assume these UV resins are healthy.. some of these things are loaded with BPA. Would love to know what this product is based on. Thanks for the video!!
everything mentioned in the video is identical to the properties of printer resin.
@@creepyloner1979 Not the smell.
@@chaos.corner not all brands smell, and none of them should smell once fully cured.
@@JacobNeff-oq5km That makes sense... Are you thinking, what we were thinking?
@@JacobNeff-oq5km Water wash or the older Alcohol wash .. .. I wonder which this may be like, and which might be better for wood?
I’ve been using this stuff for about 3 months and did a whole bar furniture and bar top job and used this finish one the whole project and I absolutely love it. I had a few questions and they connected me to the chemist who makes it to order!! Super awesome company.
This search for uv cure finishes stems from my use of uv resins in making surfboards and I’ve been waiting for the wood finish market to catch up. I think this might be it.
Thank you so much for presenting this. Can't wait to try it. Since it's UV curing and they make an outdoor version, it will be interesting to see how well it holds up under the Florida sun where I live.
I love the concept! It's always so funny to me how people want a Maserati for the price of a Pinto.
I appreciate all the advantages, and even though many would consider the price the most significant disadvantage, I believe the positives far outweigh it.
Once I finish up the finishes I have, I'm definitely in. ❤
Did you read the SDS? I particularly liked this sentence, "Product can undergo hazardous, exothermic polymerization".
There's 9 pages of warnings and cautions !
I think this is the most hazardous finish I have ever heard of . The fact that it has no odor makes it more dangerous not less. Keep the phone number of your local poison control office handy.
Yeah uh that's a bad take. All resins can undergo exothermic polymerization, that's how they cure. I don't know of a wood finish that wouldn't have a couple of pages in an MSDS sheet either.
Just call it what it is, a UV resin finish. Not new nor unsafe.
They sds is talking about in liquid form. There is no data on the cured form. My concern is it food safe. It seems that it isn't. Therefore don't use it on food preparation surfaces like spoken about in the video.
@@DeveloperChris If the cured coating doesn't react with acetone, it won't react with food or in your gut.
@@bobbray9666 So your an expert in that area are you? We don't have acetone in our gut if we did I might agree with you.
The base ingredients are known (SDS) to be toxic, as the product is cured all of those toxins stay in the finish and don't evaporate away, that means they can accumulate in your body and be broken down by acids AND organisms. You don't need to be an expert to understand that basic fact.
@@bobbray9666A thing doesn't have to react with the food to be dangerous. The thing itself can be dangerous. Just think of poisons, radioactive elements, microplastics, etc to help conceptualize this.
Very cool stuff. I hope you protect your eyes with those lights.
Eyeglasses in the US aren't sold without UV blocking coatings. For that matter, most eyewear in the 'states uses either Acrylic or Polycarbonate for lenses, and *both* are opaque (or can be made so) to the entire UV spectrum. (Stumpy wears glasses)
They don't give details about the wavelength other than it's the "safest"; many "UV" curing resins activate at 405 nm which is (only just) in the visible light range - 405 nm is technically outside the UV range. That wavelength is used for its safety, so I'll guess they use 405 nm.
405 nm from an LED source is (only just) outside the harmful range to unprotected eyeballs.
It is not invisible; the LED lamp is producing light that is at the hairy edge of human vision's ability. We look away when it's too bright because it hurts.
(Unless we start getting the light bulb equivalent to an audiophile... let's thank the maker For small favors!)
@@pariahzero thanks for the info! I’ve never used these lights myself, but saw another UA-camr (Blacktail Studios) comment that his hands got “sunburned” after working with one. He was also wearing sunglasses while working with one. Maybe the wavelength is specific to each light brand.
I'm not sure how fair it is to say "it's pretty expensive, but it'll last you 3x as long as poly!"
Price for 1qt of poly: $17
Price for 1qt of this: $144 (8.5 cans of poly)
Nubs, you gotta remember most of us don't have successful UA-cam channels or large furniture shops. This isn't just expensive, it's priced out of almost every woodworker I know. This is like the Festool Domino without the cheap alternatives.
I would not compare it to cheap Minwax. A high quality poly will cost you about $25/quart.
@StumpyNubs
Before I drop $160 on a quart, I need to know not only how well it will work in my shop but also the shelf life. I'm a small hobbyist, and if this stuff is concentrated, it may be a year or two before I use a quart. If there were a 4 or 8 ounce quantity available, then it would be worth trying, but not with a $160 price tag. Remember, most of your viewers are hobbyists not commercial shops.
The shelf life is one year, according to the website.
@@waynesundmacher4516 3 friends + you, 40 bucks each, 1 cup each. Used before the shelf life expires.
Try Solarez "I can't believe it's not Lacquer". They have a 4'oz and a pint for 20.85 and 39.75 respectively. I've us the pint on about a dozen or so guitars and other smallish project. It powders up great when level sanding and can be buffed to a glass finish if need be. It's quite durable as well. I'm sorry to be pushing a different product but it's great for hobbyists like you and me. If you don't have UV lights, a nice sunny day will cure it in minutes as well and even a not so sunny day can work though it will take a bit longer.
❤Stuppy - thanks for once again introducing us to another provider that we might have missed. I don't understand all the negative comments that seem to imply that you are part of some evil conspiracy. You provided useful information about a new product. As for price and UV light dangers, we all have access to perfect information via the manufacturer or the internet or the CPSC or other regulatory agency.
In the 70's Watco made a tung oil lacquer. Loved it. After 3 coats it looks like a sprayed on lacquer finish. It was lost to new regulations.
They're cracking down on ethanol, too, which is absolutely ridiculous. It's hard to get denatured alcohol in California because alcohol is technically a volatile organic compound. Ethanol vapors are safe to be around, but the laws are written stupidly.
I have to stock up in Oregon. Denatured alcohol is kind of essential in a lot of ways.
You can substitute Everclear for DA.
@@MS-ig7ku Also can't get Everclear :(
It's OK to sell it to investors but use it on a project, no way !
Alcohol can be a fuel. We are already on war rations, just marketed differently.
At that price they can afford to hire this youtube channel
if you have 3d printers you know this works and is way cheaper! i tried normal clear and water washable clear... both work great and at 25$ a liter its a bargain! look it up and see what i mean...and so many color choices too! you can also use mica powders to great effect
HOLY COW !
$154? I thought OK, that's a gallon. Nope $154 & up for a quart!
For the 2 projects a year that I do, I can find another finish, and take a couple days to finish it.
Yes, it's about twice the cost per square foot of coverage of a high quality polyurethane. (Give or take.) But I like to hear about exciting things even if they don't end up being a perfect fit for every shop or budget. :)
In Canada, it is >$200 CAD, for one quart.
Plus another $300 for the light to cure it.
@@johnlucaiii9495 Lights are a one time cost. I don't count the price of my table saw when I calculate how much a project is going to cost. There are plenty of woodworking tools in most shops that cost a fair amount, but are used for many projects over many years.
Please do more real world testing on this. How does it handle being applied vertically, like spindles or legs? How does it interact with other finishes/stains?
I feel sorry for anyone complaining about the price. The 2-minute curing time alone should make up for it…
omg. i have been sealing my wood windchimes with led/uv top coat gel nail polish for yrs. same thing. also impervious to acetone. has to be filed or sanded off. amazing the uses of such a versatile product that crosses many media's including with uses and applications. mind blown.
Wow can't wait to jump in my Gulf stream and fly up and get some!
peasant! I'm taking my 747 staffed only with supermodels that has the ramp for my Bugatti
Love your message.
Can you get a glass smooth finish if you add coats? Can it be buffed out? I'm wondering if it would work on guitars?
All glassy finishes have to be achieved by fine sanding. Unsure about the machineability of this but I doubt it's worse than poly. Plus no guessing if it's ready to buff.
It can be polished to a high gloss.
We've had trouble reaching a high gloss buff with Solar Rez. Stuff is just too friggin hard. Possible this other stuff is different.
@@StumpyNubs I'd love to see you do an example of that.
@@PaulMcEvoyGuitars - Steffan has an example in one of his videos on mywoodcutters.com.
I started using the solarez stuff and it sounds basically the same as this. I'm wondering if you've tried it and if there are any difference
I was using the solar rez can’t believe it’s not lacquer till I found this. The clean armor is a superior product. I’m half way through my 3rd qt now. $160 qt sounds expensive but it goes a really long way. I keep a little roller tray with foam roller going, pour it on and roll it out, let it soak for a min then use a vinyl application squeegee to wipe all the excess back into the tray to reuse. Wrap the tray in a piece of black plastic trash bag and put in a big ziplock till next time. Using 100w Amazon blacklight floods by the way, used a $25 20w first with no issues just wanted to cover a bigger area.
@@getdirecti0ns I'm curious what aspects are superior. If it's a more reliable product, I'd absolutely pay more for it. The biggest issues I have with solarez are the leveling (or lack of) and the witness lines.
@@chadstruzynski I had issues with the solar rez being gummy sometimes when sanding even after extra curing time. Also some batches were much harder to sand than others. The clean armor also doesn’t have much smell compared to the solarez. It doesn’t seem to self level all that well tho. I’ve tried hitting it with a heat gun and torch as you might with epoxy, doesn’t seem to like that lol. I haven’t tried spraying it on as I don’t like the idea of airborneing something that won’t cure on its own in my shop.
Do you know if you use oil to highlight the grain in figured woods will this product work over the top of the oil if I wait for the oil to cure first?
I have been using Liberon oil from the UK on my guitars and mandolins. This is a wipe on similar to Tru Oil. Works well on my instruments and also easy to fix any scratches.
Your tool collection is astonishing
1) When I clicked on this I absolutely expected a UV epoxy or other UV product. Looks like I'm spot on.
2) UV curing products produce VOCs.
While they don't contain VOCs technically ("0 VOC"), when the catalyzing compound is exposed to UV light, it will release a VOC gas.
This is inherent with all UV curing compounds as far as I'm aware.
I doubt it is an epoxy. If it is, it will yellow a lot with time.
@@mckenziekeith7434 not necessarily, there's a lot of uv stable resins out there.
But that doesn't really matter either way. His selling point for this is that its zero voc, which almost certainly isn't true.
The product itself may be 0-voc, but the second its hit with UV light it'll begin releasing VOC gasses.
@@monarchco there are zero UV stable clear epoxy coatings on the market. Not a single one.
These types of finishes hold a lot of promise, but my two reservations are the price and the look. These finishes, that I have seen, have a plastic feel and look that I don't like. I do think with time the UV finishes will get better in their look, feel, and price.
The cost is definitely a factor. As far as appearance, it is a lot like Poly or Lacquer.
We live in amazing times.
I'm especially curious about the durability of the outdoor finish.
James, thanks for presenting an additional finishing option. If you look at the product from a cost / benefit view, it makes good economic sense. I can see where this product and process could be extremely helpful when you have time constraints or restricted amount of space. I would guess most of us use different finishes for different projects, just one more to add to the arsenal. The cost of the finish is still way below all the investment you have made prior to applying a finish. There is nothing more economically maddening than ruining, or diminishing a project on the final step. Over the years you have presented a vast number of cost-saving options, sponsored or not is immaterial to me. Thanks!!!
Have you ever tried Odie’s oil? Beautiful results, easy to use and non-toxic. It is also important to note that not all compounds that are volatile are toxic. Odie’s gives off a really enjoyable, non-toxic scent. No respirators.
Isn't this just UV curing resin? $25/qt. from most resin 3D printer suppliers.
I hope not! 3d printing resin is horribly toxic. It's been known to cause allergic skin reactions like psoriasis.
Best damn infomercial I’ve ever seen.
Stumpy Nubs is 90% infomercials. He’s just really good at it. And helpful too.
“Can’t ban.” Bureaucrat- “Hold my latte.”
😂
You mean "soya latte"?
It goes hand in hand with "safe" vs "no one has really tested it yet".
You can still easily ban the uv light cause it causes skin cancer 😂
I would consider this as a basement woodworker. I can't have fumes in the house, and I don't have extra drying space. Also I'm impressed by its resistance to those liquids.
The lights they sell though are outrageously expensive; if it works with cheaper UV lights then I might well try the product.
Saw a video awhile ago about using UV cured finish on floors. Very cool. And it's good for regular traffic in minutes.
Wow, what a surprise that the thing replacing oil-based finishes is 15 times more expensive than oil-based!
No, it is about twice as expensive per square foot of coverage as a high quality poly.
See how that works, by the time you can afford it, the next thing you can't afford comes out...
Totally surprising that that cheap stuff is dangerous for people and the safer stuff isn't as cheap. Shocking.
@@StumpyNubs my mistake. Didn't realize it covered so much more area than an equivalent amount of oil poly. Have a feeling it won't really ever be applicable to DIY'ers, but if you're running a commercial workshop it sounds great.
Is this just a UV resin for 3d printers?
They cure in the same way and probably have very similar ingredient lists in differing amounts. UV cured finishes are nothing new but I think the turn towards consumers is due to the availability of high output UV LEDs.
This is exactly the question I was going to ask. I might have to try it.
@@neilsbergstedt he did say it hasn't got a smell to it, which made me think maybe not. I'm more of a fdm guy 😅
I was wondering if the exterior products provide UV protection (I know that sounds odd considering you use UV light to cure it), but the website didn;t mention it. Does anyone know?
Honestly, I wish companies would just do a comparison chart of all their products, how the performance and types of applications differ and what they would suggest they be used for beyond a general - for indoors, for outdoors.
probably, if is exposed to direct sunlight for too long it will start to crack and exfoliate.
For example, in automotive paint, they use an additive wich when the paint cures it forms UV protective layer. If you were to buff the like many "pros" advertise is safe to do. You would remove that UV protective layer, sure it shines like new, for few months at least anway. After that the sun will fry the paint.
So in simple words, YOU NEVER BUFF your auto paint or the lacquer. You only do that if you play to add another coat of lacquer or paint.
Is the same with headlights and other plastics.Once you removed that layer of UV protection the sun will eat through it very quick. And if your paint thing stays under direct sunlight like veryday, at some point, after some years it will eventually destroy that UV protection layer. I speak about automotive paint here.
I am no expert in this, i painted my car once and had to do some research. And i am amaized how many "experts" claim is safe to buff your last layer of paint or lacquer when that is the most important one and it should be painted flawless, simply because you cannot buff it, if you want it to last as long as the factory paint.
First of all even if this finish has UV protection in it wich i doubt it, because then why would the automotive industry just simply not use this paint, the time it takes to cure would save alot of money for them.
But let's say it has. The wood doesn't have UV protection, and eventually it will yellow out or change color.
I know there is bondo for car repairs wich cures under uv light, same stuff as this. Only it has some chalk in it. And i know bondo is not uv resistant.
But i do know there are many epoxy brands wich offer uv protection.
This stuff seems like any resins, very brittle, wich means if you do not seal your wood perfectly and use this stuff on it when the moisture is very low in it, it will eventually move and start to exfoliate. This is why oils is preferable for wood finish or other kind of paints and clear finish wich is more elastic and moves with the wood fibers.
Polyurethane, acrilic water paints for example.
RE: Their website, yes, they have a line of finishes for exterior use that are UV blockers (different part of the UV spectrum from the curing light).
definitely keeping this in mind for various projects i have that i would love to use a product like this for. Expensive, yes, but if i want it to last then it is worth it to me. I will be buying this in the future as soon as i get around to doing wood projects again after my priority projects are done around the house.
That was amazing, acetone is how I learned how fragile my tabletop finishes actually are. One drop usually will make you have to re seal the whole piece
That UV light has stronger radiation than the sun, you should use protection
Is it food safe?
How long would it take to dry if you don't have a UV light?
Probably never if you leave it indoors, but I would guess it would take just a few minutes outside in a bright sunny day
Wouldn’t always be a solution, but sunlight would do it.
@@chris-edward2264 my question is if you have already bought (or are planning to buy) this expensive finish from that company, why not buy the lamp along with it?
Looks very good. I am blown away by the durability and finish, and doubly blown away by the price! For a small projects woodworker like myself, I'll stick to mineral oil and wax.
Sold!!! Been looking for a high quality non-VOC application. Thanks very much!!
What’s with all the people bellyaching about the price? Stumpy made a video to demonstrate a new finish. Does every video have to be about something immediately relevant and practical to the viewers? Is there no intellectual curiosity about interesting developments in the woodworking industry, even if they don’t necessarily apply to you, the viewer?
Cut Stumpy some slack. Just chill out and enjoy the vid.
Stumpy, interesting video! I probably won’t have a need for the product, but I’m impressed with it!
I like these kinds of vids. 👍
"A new wood finish they can't ban!"
Gov't: Challenge accepted.
LOL, funny but frightenly prophetic at the same time
@@williammaxwell1919 I think as long as the gov't doesn't say "hold my beer" we'll be alright.
144 dollars for a small bottle..that is pretty expensive Stumpy
It is almost always the case that a new technology or product that is a game changer carries a high purchase cost until the product becomes broadly adopted by the main industry manufacturers then the economics of scale kick in and bring the product cost down significantly.
Ooooh...just like nail fingernail shellac that cures with special lights! Soooo cool to apply to wood. Will this go on after stains and previous finish jobs without much sanding?
Really exciting stuff! Do you think this would be a good finish for a front door? With UV curing it would get stronger every day, right? 😉
Aint this like the adhesive dentists use?
Yes I've had a resin applied to my teeth and cured with a UV light.
It may be a great product and I do have the money but I'm making a stand. I'm sick of the feeling of being ripped off by high prices. I'll pass.
Yes, it's about twice the cost per square foot of coverage of a high quality polyurethane. (Give or take.) Nobody is "ripping you off."
Twice the cost notwithstanding results in the ability to sell, ship & profit sooner. No to mention it's the better option to not having the availability of finishes in states where the alternatives are outright banned but...to each their own
Most uv cure resin do not do well in sunlight.
@@mikegrant8031 UV cured wood finishes have been used in industry for many years. They hold up fine.
I haven't watched the video yet, but the water cure Minwax has been good for me.
So I will watch as I am always looking for something better
Giving wood the properties of plastic. While still being wood.
I do love wood, wood is meant to breakdown, like everything.
If U V light is what cures the finish. Does that mean you should not apply the finish in direct sunlight because of the UV rays? I do a lot of my finishing work in my driveway because I do not have a shop, just a shed holding my tools.
Thank you for your informative and educational program.
Sounds like a terrific product/technology, and I'd like to say that I'm looking forward to using it, though at that price I'll have to wait until market forces and/or competition bring some sort of equivalent product into the realm of people like myself. Cheers.