Suzuki Samurai Restoration Part 69, Jimny, Sierra, SJ413, SJ410
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- I paint the under hood of the Samurai and fight carburetor gremlins. Still trying to solve the rough idle issue. Now the Sammy is dieseling.
If you buy products with these links I receive a small commission:
FixLife FL T-Shirt:https: //www.etsy.com/listing/1555678418/random-logo-t-shirt-cool-design-new
An idea … Run the tank dry and fill it up with VP10. You will be amazed how much a difference it will make! ❤😂
I'm pretty sure you have to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance when you check timing. If the vacuum advance diaphragm is faulty that could be your source of vacuum leak. Also make sure the choke works properly. It should idle up when cold and close the choke flaps even if it's hot as hell.
I agree @constantinoszenonos1794, a bad vacuum advance diaphragm could cause a lot of problems.
I've always heard that too but it doesn't seem to make a difference at idle, but with the diaphragm removed it makes a huge difference (like 30°BTDC). I'm thinking the spring behind the diaphragm puts some pressure on that sliding deal even without vacuum. I ordered one but it won't be here for a few weeks so I tried a really ghetto fix but it was a fail. Hopefully its entertaining because that'll be tomorrow's video. I'm hoping the new one makes a difference. The weird thing is it still drives fine. I don't get it. Thanks for the comments! We'll get her idling smooth eventually.
33:17
When you adjust the timing the microphone is picking up a tiny ticking. That’s a valve.
To find out if it’s intake or exhaust -
engine running
add a screwdriver to one side of the cylinder head
put your head (above your ear) to of the handle of the screwdriver and you will hear the ticking better.
Move the screwdriver tip to find the exact valve ticking.
I have a cheesy automotive stethoscope I got off tiktok for like a buck or 2. It actually works really well though. I remember a long time ago my dad and I using a wooden dowel in the ear drum to find out where noises were coming from lol. I had it out the other day because there's a noise I can't figure out where it's coming from. I wasn't hearing anything from the heads though.
About octane …
The U.S. 91 is the same as the EU 98. It’s just a different method of measuring it. I always use the highest available and for the last +3 years Texaco as it has additives in it to run cleaner. Second option is Shell.
Higher octane does not mean more power. But what it does mean is that with a higher octane fuel you can set the timing later in the cycle without getting the valves ticking. Meaning, the higher octane has a higher knocking resistance and therefore will use more of the energy in the fuel. On top of that, as it might run hotter, it might also run cleaner.
Yes sir. Back when I used to fly out of the local airport I could buy AVgas there. It's 100 octane low lead. Really nice blue color. I used to run it in dirt bikes and other 2 stroke stuff. I think alot of people think the higher the octane the more flammable it is when it's actually kinda the opposite.
32:43
Lots of comments from me today, ignore if you see fit.
Turning around to fix the timing … I think you have an engine running too lean (go do the exhaust test!) and this is why you need to re-tune the timing from one day to the next. As said before, it is also the probable cause of the engine dieseling.
1:25
Never ever let it shut off like this! You might ruin the engine.
Better to get it in gear with clutch down parking brake on, turn off the key and release the clutch at the same time. This will shut down the engine immediately.
1:05
The engine ignited 2-3 times after turned off.
1. The timing is set too high. In general I t should be 5 degrees before the piston top turning point. Because petrol only burns at 5 meters per second. If set wrong you might hear valves ticking or get overheated spark plugs that prevents the engine to turn off. I.e., you get a petrol diesel engine.
2. The spark plugs used are working at a higher temperature than they are made for cussing them to glow. See point 1 m, the diesel part.
29:26
Lost screws…? Isn’t that an intellectual insult? 😂
13:18
I think you need better spark plugs that are made to run at higher temperatures.
And I think your timing is slightly off, i .e., slightly too too early.
I have a habit of buying the best spark plugs I can find for my cars. They are also the most expensive. But when using them I can hear how the engine sound changes. It always sounds smoother. Never any starting issues, never any dieseling issues. Only once did I have to change spark plugs to the originals. It was with my Audi 80 which was dieseling. The original sparks from Audi looked like spark plugs for a racing engine. Bought them and never again did it diesel.
No matter for how many years I have the car with the best spark plugs available I never need to change them again.
The importance of good spark plugs is underestimated.
I would have to go back to the video where I replaced them cuz I don't remember. I know they were NGK something or other. Do you mean get something with a different heat range? Are you talking about to make it idle smoother or to prevent the dieseling or both?
@@FixLife119
Yes, one temp range higher.
Both smoother ignition and never dieseling again.
Right or wrong, from my experience NGK isn’t good enough for my standards.
I usually buy the most advanced Bosch I can find. Yes, they are also the most expensive. But cheap isn’t good, good isn’t cheap.
@@BorisEkner Dang, I got NGK's because alot of people said not to run anything else. I can't really remember but I wanna say the rough idle did start back when I was playing around with different things to pass emissions so it very well could be the plugs. I didn't give it too much thought back then because I was running that guaranteed to pass emissions crap through that tank of gas so I kinda expected it to run differently. Now I'm not sure lol.
Yeah I agree, I watched a video where a guy ohm'd out all his brand new plugs and the resistance was drastically different between them. I wanna say the Autolite's were absolutely terrible. I know in my Jeep because there's 16 of them I changed them to iridium so I wouldn't have to mess with it again. That was 10 years ago so far so good.
Maybe use STP Carburetor treatment
Does that help with dieseling? That issue is so weird. It just started. I think I may have gotten some bad fuel because the carb has been gone through twice now so it should be pretty clean inside. I know my vacuum advance diaphragm is bad. Ordered one but it won't be here for a while so I tried a ghetto fix today, it was a fail but hopefully entertaining. Itll be in tomorrow's video. I'll check that stuff out, thanks!
when you change all your wires cap, put dielectric grease on the caps an such so you can drive through water. bettr safe than sorry. id still think about the carb it ran good till then
Ya know, I'm trying to think when it started idling rough. It's been a little while. I just thought going through the carb would fix it, and now I'm on a mission. It still runs plenty good. I'm just ocd about rough idle. I'm gonna get it purring like a kitten if it kills me lol.
@@FixLife119 I'm the same way. My wife can say it's running good, you're nuts lady can't you feel or hear that.
@@numbskullskills Right, I went through a phase from like age 19-22 where that's all I noticed about vehicles was how smooth they idled, then I guess I got over it and now I think it's happening again.
@@FixLife119 hate to tell yeah buddy but it never gos away
@@numbskullskills Mine kinda comes and goes. I guess when I find something else to fixate on lol.
More about fuel …
The fuel additives we find at some stores claiming to clean injectors, combustion chambers, and what not are BS.
In general, what they do is to lower the temperature of combustion and as such hope to burn of any built up carbon. (Some if not all of them use one form or the other of something similar to White Spirit. Meaning, if you use the cheapest petrol you can buy you might benefit from adding a spoon or two of diesel to a full tank and you should achieve similar result for way less money.
There is a guy in UA-cam who test a lot of stuff. He tested the fuel additives too. All with the similar crappy result for a lot of money.
Way better than fuel additives is to buy high quality fuel, like Texaco or Shell.
BTW
Oil additives are the same. They do more damage than not. Buy better and more expensive oil as no engine oil will be more expensive than the parts it protects.
That's cool, I didn't know any of that, except for the part about using good oil. Amsoil is the best oil I've seen tested but I've always had good luck with Mobile1 synthetic. What do you run?
@@FixLife119
As my Gen4 Jimny is out of its 3 year warranty on June 13 I will get Ravenol in engine, front & rear axles, gearboxes/transmission. For bearings I will use SKF Bearing Grease LGMT 2/5 because professional use shows it’s better than any other grease.
I’m an old school Quaker State guy. But as the unique crude from PA has ran out I have to go for another option. Reading the charts Ravenol seems to be the best in my opinion.
For anyone who knows little to nothing about lubricants,
buy a known brand
buy the most expensive you can find
- Because no matter the price of the lubricant it will be cheaper than the parts it protects.
@@BorisEkner Is Ravenol available worldwide? I don't think I've ever heard of it. I wonder if it was included in the tests they did with all the larger oil companies (might have only been US companies). I wanna say it was Amsoil's Signature Series Synthetic that pretty much dominated every category. It is pricey but it whooped the oils I previously thought were the best such as Mobile 1 Synthetic and Royal Purple. I think you can get like 25% off going through a dealer. One of my fav youtubers (Legit Street Cars) is a dealer so if you use his link you get the discount.
I don’t know what you call it in the states but that distributor screw you dropped - I use a little bit of “blu-tac” on the head of fiddly little bolts and screws to retain them in a socket or on a screwdriver… no more drops and losses.
(From Perth West Oz)
I wonder if what you're talking about is what we call Loctite here? It's made to keep bolts from backing out?
@@FixLife119 nope it’s
A plasticene for holding papers up on a fridge or something. Put a little in a socket or on the end of a screwdriver before you take out a screw or bolt and the bolt won’t drop as it comes out.
@@morgsytheman2840 Oh ok, I gotcha. It's like an adhesive putty. I used to have some like tar/putty strips a long time ago that worked in a pinch for stuff like that. Never heard of Blu-tac but now I know. Hey thanks!
Toss that Webber in the garage and get a Toyota 3K or the Sidewinder.
You're not the first person to recommend that lol. I don't think all the blame is on the carburetor. There's gotta be a vacuum leak or something. I know the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad. Doing some ghetto stuff in the next episode to see if I can temporarily fix that as none are available here in the states for a decent price. Soonest I could find one online is mid June out of Slovakia for $50. I could order one from Low Range Offroad for $180 but that seems ridiculous for a vacuum diaphragm! I've heard good things about both the Webers and the 3K's. I wanna say nobody will pass emissions with the Weber though lol. Do you have to pass emissions where you're at? I got around it by registering it as a classic.
Throw a 3K Carb on it and see if that fixes it. Mine purrs with the 3K Carb.
Corolla?
Yeah I've heard alot of people really like those. I'm pretty happy with this Weber and don't have the money to replace it. I know the Weber's make good power but I think its prob impossible to pass emissions with one though. Luckily I was able to register it as a classic by getting Hagerty insurance. I think I must have a vacuum leak or some other issue I haven't been able to pin down yet. I know the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad, working on that now lol.
@@morgsytheman2840 I think the 3k carbs were popular on some Toyotas. Larry prob knows better than me.
@@FixLife119 I agree, the Weber is a great carb. It's just a little more finicky than what I want to deal with. I think you are on the right track with the vacuum advance and hoses. Keep us updated.
Have u replaced the timing belt. If ur not sure it has been replaced. It would be a good idea to change it.
I haven't. By looking at how spick and span the heads were and the pistons with my borescope, someone has gone through this engine. I know that doesn't guarantee its been changed but I'm betting it has. The way I see it, if she goes and I have to rebuild her that'll just make for good content lol.
Lol. If it goes it will bend the valves and punch the pistons. It's cheap insurance. Not expensive and fairly easy to replace. That's one of the first things I've always done. Especially if the odometer is over 60,000.
@@IraSmith-iy1sf Yeah I think it's prob super easy to change on this engine.