Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Alternator DIY for VW 2.5L 5 cylinder MK5 Jetta
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 лис 2017
- We show you how to check and replace the alternator on your VW 2.5L 5cylinder engine. An alternator being bad can often result a car constantly killing batteries or die after jump starting. Take a look in the video for more details on this MK5 Jetta Alternator
VW 2.5L Alternator for 07K903023AX
shopdap.com/ca...
VW 2.5L Upper Relay Roller
shopdap.com/07...
VW 2.5L Serpentine Belt Tensioner
shopdap.com/07...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOOLS
34pc Torx Bit Set
shopdap.com/vw...
12pc Triple Square Set
shopdap.com/ma...
Magnetic Screw Driver Set
shopdap.com/8-...
Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here
shopdap.com
----------------------------------------------------
VW AUDI Specialty Repair Cornelius NC
www.daprepair....
VW AUDI Specialty Repair Kent Ohio
www.daprepair....
----------------------------------------------------
More info on DAP Reward Credit
shopdap.com/st...
Add us on Instagram
/ deutscheauto
Add us on Facebook
/ deutscheautoparts
A buddy and I did this job yesterday 5/22/21 and here is what I learned. If you can't lift your car, it is pretty easy to take out the headlight and pull the alternator through the headlight hole. Also, make sure you have the triple square 10mm socket for the tensioner pulley 👍
On some Volkswagens you might have to take the bumper off to get to some things. It is awful what some people have to go through!
Nice, you did this on a 08 Jetta 2.5
@@russwilson2182 07 rabbit 🐇
@@voiceofREASONS and on that did you have to take the bumper off. Thanks for insight
Did this today on my 2010 2.5L. It's actually possible to do this without even removing the headlight. Just remove the top screws of the headlight to give it a little slack to move. I also removed both tensioners to get enough clearance for the alternator bolts with the limited tools I had. It was a bit of a jigsaw puzzle, but the alternator came out from the top of the engine compartment without too much forcing.
I didn’t have access to a lift, and made my job harder on myself in many different ways. But! Your video was super helpful, and allowed me to tackle this by myself (even though I regretted it, immediately😂)! You can now find me in my backyard, burning all my bras.💪😂
Considering the price of bras, you totally negated the savings in doing it yourself :p
Veikra this is true! But, I wasn’t planning on feeling so liberated 😂
@@kirstieglover4933 hehe good job
IM A MAN! I WANNA GOT WARRR!
Hey Paul, I used this video to help me find all the bolts that needed to be removed but I found a much easier way to remove the alternator after unbolting. If you remove the passenger side headlight you have much better access and you won't have to unbolt all the reservoirs and motor mount saving a bunch of time. You'll still need to unbolt some piping and hose mounts though. Ive never done a job like this and still only took me less than 2 hours total!
Tried this on a mkv Jetta.. this does not work! Drop the ac compressor and drop it from the bottom
@@jsmoveproductions7062 that's how I had to do mine. Works like a charm. Rotate the ear of the alternator in the radiator fan and bam she's out.
I hate my life. Been wrestling this for 2 days
@@moleisrich1 ua-cam.com/video/ufFS4CFezC8/v-deo.html
@@moleisrich1 me too man, my Jetta has been sitting in a parking spot at my complex for months 😭
This video is awesome. I could not have figured this out without the direction here. I did figure one easier step. The AC Pump has hoses that are long enough to allow you to get it out of the way. Take out the 3 bolts holing the AC Pump. Then take out the two bolts on the pulley below the Alternator and the Alternator will come straight out the bottom.
This seems to be the way to go. This way can be done but I think I going through the bottom is better. But a great video.
Just did this job. Take out the AC compressor from the bottom. Take out the belts and a few tensioners. Then alternator. Put in the new alternator and re install in reverse order. T27 torx and M10 triple square bits. Take your time, take pics before and during. It’s 2 hours done.
This was a great video! We followed it, and were able to swap out an alternator on a 2007 VW Jetta 2.5 Wolfsburg Edition.
We drove the car up a pair of Rhino ramps, so that we could access the top and underside of the vehicle.
We took off the belts and removed the alternator bolts easily enough. The 12 point triple square 10 mm socket was a challenge. Standard size M10 with a 3/8 inch drive did not have enough clearance between the bolt and frame. We tried a few different brands, and the only one that worked for us was a low profile 10 mm set by Titan. The standard size and stubby size were too big for our small clearance. We definitely needed picks to get the electrical plugs off the back side. And nimble fingers.
We read through the comments and got a bit overwhelmed with trying to loosen up the engine mount, and we weren't sure how to remove the AC pump. We ended up referring to another UA-cam video where we took off the front bumper and passenger side headlamp - which was pretty straightforward. After loosening the AC line, there was enough give to take the alternator out and swap the new one in. The steps in reverse were easy enough and the car runs fine now.
A pointer for any newbies (like us) -- definitely keep a good system in place for keeping track of all your bolts and parts. We bought a new Kobalt tool kit that had all the 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, T25, T27, and M10 sockets, bits, and wrenches needed to get through this. We're walking away from this project with a lot of useful tools for future car work, that's for sure.
Again, this video was great for us; we referred to it nearly constantly for our alternator replacement! Thank you!
Take note on what’s being done to get everything out the way of the alternator. Just did this today and the video is valid
Do what’s necessary don’t have to do everything
Just did this repair today using one of the methods Master_P described. I removed the upper idler bracket (to get access to the upper alternator bolt), the upper tensioner pulley (to access the lower alternator bolt), and lower idler bracket and AC compressor (to provide a path to remove and install the alternator unit).
With all the parts removed and alternator out of the bracket, you can remove the battery cable and electronics and rotate the alternator with the pulley pointing down. Then with some careful maneuvering you can get the alternator out from underneath the vehicle without much trouble.
To get access to everything, I removed the right front wheel, the belly pan, and the lower right wheel well shroud. Removing the wheel may not be a requirement but it sure made things a lot easier since I don't have a lift.
How did you get the lower idler bracket off I can’t seem to find all the bolts please help
Took the 3 easy to get to bolts on the ac compressor out and alternator came out the bottom. Was also able to disconnect wires easy.
Great video. These Bosch Alternators have a replaceable regulator which contains the brushes. Chances are the brushes are worn causing the alternator not to charge. The regulator can be replaced without removing the alternator from the car, just need to turn it. A new regulator is a fraction of the cost of a new alternator. Might be worth looking at.
Where do you
You don't need the triple square at all. Just remove the pulley and you have free access to the bolt. Did it today. Glad I read the comments and saw the hint about the headlight assembly. Even though someone epoxied the pigtail to the headlight
Paul I commend you for keeping this G rated. I couldn't do it.
+Peter Maniak ; )
Thanks for the video! It shows where all the components and bolts are, which helped me a bunch. I have to agree with others though, leave the motor mount and the triple square bolt alone.
From the top just remove the headlight, take off the belt, remove the center bolt from the idler roller and the tensioner, remove the idler roller bracket, remove the 2 alternator bolts, pry the alternator off the bracket, rotate it a bit to get the cables and cable bracket off, and shimmy it up through the headlight opening. Took me about 15 minutes to get it out. Mine is a MK 6 by the way.
I just wanted to say thanks! I actually tried to change the alternator through the bottom by removing the AC but that would have been a huge long mess because there is pulley housing in the way. So I went with this video instead and I unscrewed the engine mount, jacked it and pushed the engine back and it worked! It is the easiest route in my opinion. The hardest part was probably unscrewing the 3 connection on the back of the alternator because the clearance is so small!
This is definitely the hard way I do not recommend doing it this way! Removing ac compressor (3 bolts) you can pull it out from the bottom and eliminates 85 percent of the work he done
Love you for this amazing solutionnthank you very much
I doubt you'll come back to answer this but, does doing so present any issues?
@@maup1n no I used my jack to hold the ac compressor up and out of the way so I didn't have to worry about taking off the hoses iv also taken one out through my passenger side headlight I just removed the headlight assembly was able to get to all bolts except one underneath the alternator so still had to take the 3 bolts out of ac compressor and held it with Jack so I could get bolt and once I did I was able to pull it right out the headlight
@@maup1n ua-cam.com/video/ufFS4CFezC8/v-deo.html
@@maup1n Just pop the headlight out and you dont have to take anything aoart.
this is what i did will help a lot after watching this video
1- lift the passenger side on a jack stand
2- take the bolts from the mount to chassis
3-put the jack under the COMPRESSOR WITH A PIECE OF WOOD between and lift a little (be very careful do not put too much pressure on compressor)
that way the clearance between the engine and chassis will be enough to work
the rest is in this video
I just watched a guy do this from the bottom, by dropping the power steering pump... Leaving the lines connected, roll it out of the way, took one pulley bracket off and replaced the alternator in about an hr of real time and little effort 😂 You're killing me moving the engine around and taking items off you don't need to remove. I'll drop you his method link on here.... WATCH HIM ! SAME CAR SAME ENGINE 🎉
It's way easier to just take out the alternator from under the engine. You just need to take off ac compressor, then put a bucket or something to support it up just make sure its not dangling from the hoses. The alternator will go in and out way easier, the connections are more assessable too.
Jose V did it this way today. It worked but god that thing is in such a stupid spot
Michael C like all German cars, cramped stupid locations and torx bits that strip easily
I just did this.
There is an inaccessible clamp behind the alternator holding the wiring harness and preventing you from getting access to disconnect it. Dropping the compressor is only 3 easy bolts & 1 electrical connector. It just drops out and makes this job SIGNIFICANTLY easier.
Pulled the front wheel off for easier access too. But no motor mounts, reservoirs, etc. 👍👍
Jason Lenfesty and you also had to remove tensioners and idler pulleys working your way up towards the alternator to reach the bottom of the alternator and get that last bolt out right ? Then there is a ground and two electrical connections on the bottom of alternator which is a pain in the dick to reach and unplug , then you have to wiggle it all down and reverse the fun all over again to install , an absolute horrible design , no other words to describe this
Jose V, Like you said! I reviewed a few videos for replacing the alternator on my 2009 VW Jetta (MK5). Then I pulled it from the bottom. Way easier than the ridiculous engine mounts route through the top - NO CONTEST. The Jack Meyers video here: ua-cam.com/video/9w2oDTFAUwg/v-deo.html is absolutely the way to go. All I needed was the jack from the trunk, my tools and patience. There are a couple idler pulleys to either remove or loosen, but very straight forward swapping alternator through the bottom.
I've done this twice on my '07 2.5. The first time was to replace the pulley. The second was to rebuild the alternator (slip ring, both bearings, and brushes). Here are my 2 cents:
Removal from below is achievable if you remove: 1) the lower serpentine belt tensioner, 2) the lower idler pulley, 3) AC compressor. Secure the AC compressor at the accessory bracket with one 13mm bolt. Stick the bolt in the top hole on the compressor, but attach the bolt in the right lower thread on the bracket. This safely secures the compressor on the bracket, while tilting the compressor out of the way and yielding adequate room to drop the alternator.
Another approach is removing the intake manifold. I found this method is easier because there's SO much more room to work. It's not nearly as bad as it sounds.
Which method do you think is easiest to remove the alternator? Also, are any special tools required beyond a metric socket/wrench set? As luck would have it, I'm currently traveling and 800 miles away from my triple square set and they are not easy to find on short notice. I'm pretty sure a 10mm TS bit is required for this job, but want to make there isn't anything else I need to get my hands on before I dig in.
IMO, alternator removal is easier if you pull the intake manifold and remove from above. But this approach has limitations. First, you must have an M6 Allen wrench long enough to reach the hidden IM bolt (left of the dipstick), otherwise the IM cannot come off. Second, you should replace the IM gaskets. OEM gaskets are expensive at $75 for 5. Generic FelPro gaskets at O'Reilley work well and cost $15 for 5. Third, you must remove the upper belt tensioner to access the lower alternator bolt. Therefore, a M10 TS is still needed, so you might as well pull the lower tensioner. Fourth, you should be comfortable pulling/installing the IM.
Here are the pros to this approach: First, there's no need to unbolt the AC compressor or the lower idler pulley. Second, you can easily see and remove the 13mm B+ lock nut, the ALT wiring connector, and 8mm cable retention nut. This is a blind process if done from under the car. Third, there's less time spent laying on your back disconnecting all these cables AND prying/wiggling the alternator from under the car.
I just took of the front bumper and jacked the right side up. I had access to everything but this video helped fill in the blanks.
you did this the hard way for sure
What's the easy way
@@melvinw7753 taking out the A/C compressor and pulling the alternator under
Great video. Thanks for the step-by-step info. One point of concern: Never loosen up the motor mount. Steel bolt into aluminum. aka: bad news. a better practice is to remove the fan and even the radiator if needed. IF you do loosen the motor mount always reset motor mount bolts with RTV (100% silicone) down the holes and on the bolts. VW states that all aluminum motor mounts are one time use. They talk about some misleading streaching bolts, but harden steel bolts do not streach when tighened into an aluminum housing... I have had mounts fail and this is fustrating.
TDI Love from Chicago.
Thanks for the video. I love the old MK1 VW's a lot easy to work on. These new ones are like hell
I second Jose V here. just take out the AC compressor and it will save you a ton of time.
I had hoped the alternator on a 2.5 rabbit was in a friendly location....I still have nightmares thinking about replacement on my 99 tdi beetle....sometimes I just want to take engineers and hang them from the nearest tree
Just FYI to those that are curious, you CAN do all of this from the top with a little bit of patience and basic tools. Especially if you're only changing the voltage regulator. A stubby 8mm & 13mm wrench, ratcheting wrenches, and a swivel adaptor for your sockets would be HIGHLY recommended though.
What was used to get the cable holder bolt off?
Getting the damned alternator back on is a job unto itself.
To all you genuises in the comments--you clearly haven't done a removal ON THIS PARTICULAR CAR AND ENGINE. I don't care if you did it on a rabbit, a golf or a bug. All you're doing is misleading people.
How did you get the new alternator back on? I was fighting with mine for 2 hours yesterday and it still wouldn’t seat properly.
@@marckaplan2627 I had to get a sander and sand it down, believe it or not. Then I had to hammer the SOB on. I used a piece of 2x4. After sanding the crap out of it, it was still a tight fit. Car has been running fine since.
@@bowlingpro127 what did you sand, the bolt insert? You can tap on them with a hammer or something and it will be really easy to slide back on the car.
I found it much easier to take out from underneath. Just remove 2 bolts and drop the ac compressor, then the alternator comes out the bottom without any issues.
Finally a tutorial that doesn’t make it look easy
Very good job and thank you very much for your time, and most importantly, your knowledge...
Just did this today in 2 hours. Removed top belt ,top tensioner bracket and the bottom tensioner wheel only. I left the bottom tensioner bracket ON. With a few rotations of the alternator it came right out. Idk why everyone struggles so hard with it.
All you have to do it undo the 3 torx screws by the headlight and it pops in and out no problem
I was wandering if that would work… I done want to take the other stuff off if I can undo those 3 screws..
Coolant flush diy in the works yet? I am sure a tone of people might benefit from it
Just drain from the petcock and refill. Flushes are for cars with low miles.
I'm not a car mechanic but I can tell you that popping the engine cover off gives you a little more clearance. No screws, no bolts. Pull off at the corners, push back on. Update; you did take the cover off eventually. Mystery solved
This was within my skillset until paul got to unscrewing the motor mounts and what not lol I don’t have the proper equipment to do that part. 😞 guess ill have to pay out my nose for some shop to do it.
Some cars you can go through the bottom by taking the ac compressor out and maybe some others. There are other videos on this
You can remove the alternator through the right side headlight as shown in this guide. www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/bobos-procedure-for-2007-rabbit-alternator-replacement.89106/
Does it whine because of the alternator my car is whining bad and I’m hoping that’s all it is
This guy dose not need to do any more videos its real easy take it out the bottom. Dah !!
Mite be picking up a mk5 jetta 2.5 next week so this was pretty convenient to be uploaded now lol
Only thing I would change, instead of going up, go down. The AC compressor comes out with 3 bolts and makes the alternator access much easier. AC can sit on a box due to "lines being so flexible." Good job!
You are right. Going down is not much more work. It's the way I will be doing it. I like easy but going down will work better.
Thank you for your video……you are so patient and explain everything very clearly………I have 2 questions for you, do you know by any chance if same parts and same procedures apply to a 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2.5? and if you know as well, if the Rabbit has timing chain or timing belt? 25:26
Why not remove the headlight and slide the alternator out through the headlight opening and avoid the engine mount disconnect?
Have you had trouble seating the bottom hole? I am able to get the top lined up no problem but then the bottom wont seat properly.
You make the black cap on the back seem too easy. I’ve been at it for 45 mins and can’t get it off.
There are two easier ways to remove the alternator 1) remove the ac or 2) Remove the headlight as wellI used both methods in the last 2 weeks. The top method being easier.
Dude, why in the hell did you make a video if you didnt even look at a manual on how to do so.
Thanks. You video was a lot of help. When pulling the alternator remove the headlight assembly. I find it easier then removing motor mount
What if you dont need to replace the belts isn't it more work to remove both belts if the alternator is now free with only the alternator belt free. ?
So did you need the 10mm triple square to loosing the pulley to get the 13 mm alternator screw out, or to remove the pulley?
Great channel 👍🏻
I used To pull the battery cable on my old cars to check the alternator, but I was told not to do that on our O6 Jetta as it could cause problems with the computer. ? I’m not sure of it but May want to look into it before.
Hey there !
I replaced alternator on my jetta 2006 , the same you have on video...3 weeks lator iam having problems , the car idle come up to 900rpms then down
to 750 , is unstable , it happends when i turn ac on or just fan to max ...i was told that the alternador is not making enought power...what do you think?
You don't need to loosen the triple square bolt, just take out the pulley wheel that the finger pointed to at 10:43. Also if you wanted to take out the triple square it's a size 8! But you don't even have to go that route like I said just take off the wheel next to it. Also I took the front end off which in my opinion works best and a lot stress free. That way you don't have to raise the engin mount. I disliked this video although it did help by showing me what not to do. I think they just want you to buy there tools.
Aint it
You absolutely have to take that SOB off. I needed three bolts off with a triple square to remove all the damned pulleys in the way.
Drop the ac compressor with lines still attached an support it off to the side, alternator will come out bottom much easier than removing thru the top👍
5 days late lol 😂 i just suffered changing one 😂
I love these videos!
Is there a part number list to replace all rollers and tensioners?
I unbolted the AC compressor and remove alternator from the bottom it's less work. as for the idle pulley undo the nut that hold it to the bracket just be carfull with the washer in remounting back on the stud.
Really good video. However, when the new alternator was bolted on you forgot to mention the sleeves prep in the new alternator were the 13mm bolt screw on. I noticed slack side to side. I had to take the new alternator off because of this crucial step.
What does that mean? Sleeves prep? Getting ready to get into this job… thanks
It works best if working underneath, remove belts, ac compressor bolts, set ac compressor aside, remove 2 pulleys, and alternator comes out from the bottom.
Hey! I hope have answer quickly! this process is the same in the Volkswagen Jetta
SE 2012?
Fantastic video helped a lot
Does anyone know of its 100% necessary to remove the tensioner? Could I remove the alternator without taking it out?
I think that's the hardest way I've seen that done.. it comes out the bottom in 10 minutes.
This is why shops b charging so much they think this the “proper way” to change an alternator spending so many countless hours like sir your makin this job hard I have to do one tomorrow which is why I’m here but watching your video n I’m like yo why is you workin ya self
Hi. I need an alternator for my 2002 New Beetle, V5 cilynder, 2.3 L. Do you know what part number is? And if there is another alternator from other VW cars that fits this Beetle. Thanks.
How Do I Determine if MY Jetta is 12V or 24V...???
my alternator goes down from 14.20 to 13.70 and has variation do you think i need to replace the entire alternator? it also makes a weird sound
In another video the gentleman removed the ac compressor and pulled it out through the bottom
You can get out from the bottom if you loosen the ac compressor, let it hang. Remove the idler pulley. Pull the alternator off the block and then rotate the ear of the alternator into the radiator fan and spin it. Do it slowly so it doesn't fall on your face but that's the easiest way I've seen to change this cars alternator.
So this works on a 2.5?
@@russwilson2182 only vehicle I've ever owned. So yessir.
@@DuskTilDawn thank you, If I can get the dang wire harnesses bolt off the back ill try that. The space they give you is bs.
@@russwilson2182 make sure you brake the power steering line in front of the alternator lose but you don't have to remove it. Just crack that nut lose and it'll give the line enough play to get the alternator out as well. The wiring harness, try using a pick to access the nuts and to pop the connector loose
@@DuskTilDawn thanks for the heads up!
it comes out of the headlight hole easy
Good video, I've done It before and believe me its really hard to do it!! Regards,
I have a 2011 jetta se it keeps shutting off while driving I took it to the dealer three times could not figure out why. Any body have an idea
Please please help me out
You didn't tell the viewers how does a clutch alternator and not a regular direct drive alternator... also you didn't explain why the alternator is hard to pry off, and if you don't know it's because that bushing where the hold down screw goes through moves as you tighten it... And if your using a used alternator youll have to push that busing back for easier installation
Seriously . .who designed this thing. I did an alternator change on an older Ford once and it took 15 minutes start to finish.
People smart enough to figure out that in a tight engine bay, moving another easily accessible component will create a large space for it to drop out the bottom. This guy is dumb as a post. Don't do it his way. Take the 3 bolts out of the ac compressor, move it and remove it from the bottom with zero struggle
Good timing on posting this! Thanks!! On a road trip to visit family for Thanksgiving, the alternator light came on in the middle of Chicago yesterday and we managed to coast into my in-laws in Michigan. Any more tips on getting the alternator out? Trying to get all the information I can before I get started (or decide to take it to a repair shop). With the holiday coming up and us needing to get home, time is working against me.
hope you made it home ok!
Very so hard work , but is nice intruccion
just take the front bumper off and headlight its so much easier then this way.
Is there a reason you didn't move the front into service position or at least move it a bit forward? That would have provided you a lot more wiggle room to get it out.
+blocki it's easier to unbolt the engine mount than to lose. The radiator support.
@@Deutscheautoparts agreed! in most of my vws I ended up removing engine mount bolt for clearance and rocking the motor, instead of "service position". Way too many things can go south when I do the service position in my personal garage.
the alternator con not pass take out the ac compressor and its faster i just change one
Good job
Mountain gear wrench works better then double wrenching technique
Can y’all install a turbo on a 2.5L MK6 !!!!!
Please why don't you remove the headlight to make it easier
I've removed the entire front end easier than this!
Got a video to put up buddy?
This is true, don't bent the ac lines and you're golden
This would of been so useful 2 weeks ago
you don't need that special triple square just take off the bearing on the tensioner with a size 15. good luck
Just remove passanger head lamp assembly...it clears way easy
cmartinez0885 did it work for you ?
cmartinez0885 Wrong ! The cooling fans and ac lines are still in the way, you won’t be able to reach the bottom bolt holding the alternator either; that can only be reached from disconnecting the pulleys
Hey foolios, ;p Haha, keep those small bolts holding all those brackets that keeps your Dub whole! Remember parts are meant to be moved not manipulated!!! That's probably why a lot of you need to replace your pulleys! Ha! NOW FOR THE SIMPLE SOLUTION... THERE ARE 8, (I THINK), BOLTS OR NUTS THAT WILL LOOSEN NOT REMOVE THE FRONT BUMPER! WORK THEM ALL LOOSE BUT ON CAR. DO NOT REMOVE! ONCE YOU SHIMMY THAT FORWARD AN INCH OR SO AND "SHE'LL DROP TO HER KNEES FAST SO BE READY." ALL THAT OTHER SHYTE, ONLY A COUPLE: JACK TO MOTOR & LOOSEN COOLANT LINE, GET THE ALT/BELT(S)/PULLEY(S)/BOLTS/ETC. ALL NEW. THEN DO YOUR TIMING AND WASH IT!
Working underneath is the best way
Or... remove the radiator carrier screws.. lot easier to hinge that forward than everything that was removed for the motor mount. AND there are ways around a triple square
Can you make a video on this...👍🏻
Agreed, wish there was a vid of this. This is how Haynes wants it done, and I am curious just how much room the "service position" gives.
Also, I have seen hacks around triple squares. However, having replaced my tensioner, there are times those fittings are so tight I would worry about any hack striping the bolt. I got my set from Capri, and it was very reasonable.
Ya that Oem one costs $1100. from the dealer.
Battery wont electrocute you it will burn you if your close to contact point.
Theres a black bar to my right thats blocking me from getting the plug in
yeah I have this too. I got the plug in but now it's blocking me from getting the new alternator installed.
any tips on how you figured this out?
Worst engineered cars in the world absolute junk! how did the engineers pass a design that would require lifting the motor to get the alternator out????????? Pathetic!
Very clear, thanks a lot
You could have just replaced the regulator/brush assembly with alternator on the car by removing intake manifold....more times than often that's the part that fails in the alternator,did my 07 beetle 2.5 in 20 minutes without taking it off the car
This only cost me $32 dollars
Why didn’t you just remove the ac compressor?
Good god, doesn’t even seem to be enough room to get the positive cable off and the plastic wire holder
That 2.5 engine alternator will fit that of the classic Jetta 2.0 engine without modifying anything
I like it imma pull the intake instead haha
Quickest way to remove that alternator is to drop the AC ...only 3 bolts......and remove idler wheel 2 bolts.... Then Alternator just comes out from the bottom....