@@stevedebbiemoore That's now how the word pedantic is either used or spelled, and a machinist and engineer are very different things. See, This was pedantic.
In my apprenticeship those fly cutters were introduced to me as _butcher's hooks_ because they don't have much of a body on them which would keep you from being pulled into the cutter if touched with hand or clothing. Always be extra aware when working with them.
Tyler Hensley hopping on this. if you want. send me some photos of the offending relay. with any numbers and such that you can find and I'll see if I can link you a replacement.
I'm inclined to think that, with the inherent vibration of a machine tool and old enamel on the turns that windings started shorting to each other, upping the coil current and starting the downward spiral to burnout.
He should just get a new contacter. not realy important, what type or brand it is. as long as it can take the amperage and the coil voltage is the same!
I would replace the coolant contractor , replacing the spindle contractor may be a problem as there may be a mechanical interlock between forward and reversing one as well as electrical interlock . As has been said it reached it life span no cutting load would have caused it
Contractors are not expensive . The A/C industry uses them by the millions ( although most have a 24 VAC coil , they can be purchased with different voltage coils ) . I always buy contractors that were rated 10 - 20 amps more than the original . If there is physical room for them to mount . Just match the same number of poles , voltage . Try Johnstone Supply or W W Granger . God bless Wyr
2 points of warm fuzziness I got from this video 1) When the threads were drilled for the grub screws and then the screws being torqued down to a perfect depth (Awesome) 2) Watching the Fly Cutter's ability to clear chips giving me a full view of the cut in all its glory (Awesome) I really liked the hex too rather than the cylindrical piece, definitely looks more industrial!
With the tapers not concentric on the first spindle, once you turn down the taper, that wouldn't have mattered much. Or was it that you just didn't trust that the other taper was even close to what it should be?
It'd be awesome to see you venture into metalworking Matthias - could be some really interesting stuff, judging by the stuff you make out of wood. Happy new years regardless
My favorite thing about fly cutters is reflection you get in the surface finish. My second favorite thing is how it shows you how well you trammed your mill.
Just watched this for the first time, with part one. Lots of useful info, especially about speed in P1. Thanks for the excellent video. I miss your regular videos. Safe safe, Stay well.
You sir, are a genius. You're funny and very knowledgeable. I'm a games programmer who also dabbles in CNC. I've just found your channel. Every video is funny and entertaining AND full of useful stuff. WHY WHY WHY do we not have TV programmes like this instead of Love Island?!
BTW, the contactor actuator coil draws the same no matter what power you draw through the contactor. It only holds the contacts shut. It is the contacts that carry more or less power depending on the motor load. Contacts can burn, melt, weld together or fail in other ways. The coils can fail by opening (no through connection), shorting (close connection between the two input connections), or (what it looks like your coil did) a short between two or more of the turns internally, which causes the whole coil to overheat dramatically. The last is usually a sign that the internal insulation on the windings is breaking down. It is a sort of thin enamel so if one has broken down, the other(s) may be getting iffy as well. You probably have 3 or 4 contactors (forward, reverse, maybe an on/off, and the coolant pump). It would probably pay to replace all the coils if one has failed. You can keep the ones that haven't actually failed as emergency spares.
Cool way to turn down the B taper true to the ISO-30 spindle. So obvious but a bit outside the box. You're good at that, thinking outside the box. Learned something new today also. Cool build, simple and straight forward. That is next on my project list, even have some hex stock to replicate yours. Thanks.
Tony your absolute genius at explaining stuff! I just figured out how to log in & am revisiting some of your Vids' giving a thumbs up where I remember to! Just keep doing what your doing! I am unemployed at the moment & my discipline is electronic engineering, if I get a job again I'll patronise you too. Well at least your 'sublimanal' (Laugh out Loud) "marketing stratergy" finaly worked on my slow old brain! All the very best!
How hard the mill is working doesn't effect the current in the coil. I'd personally recommend to get a new contactor all together. Great video as always
Great vid as usual. Got me there with the too-late-at-night TV signal. I recommend just replacing the down contactor next time it happens. Cheap and easy and a safe bet, just how I like my women. Unless you have some complicated interlocking device which even a good interlocking set of contactors is still fairly cheap. Next time.
Hi, I really like these videos because it is kinda an art to a layman like myself. I really like the picture and data of the tooling your currently using in the mill for the specific cut. It gives helpful information to beginners like myself and would really like seeing it in the future. Cheers.
Hmmmmmmm, electrical engineer here, to talk about your coil. That's fairly abnormal. Contactors do not overheat and burn up from old age, unless the winding insulation fails and shorts out part of the winding - which is rare in an undemanding environment like a workshop. If the coil is an AC coil, it will draw high current until the plunger completely closes. If it's prevented from closing properly, it will give this result. Also, if you feed an AC coil with DC, you will be rewarded with a similar result. They're certainly a commodity item. Should be cheap and easy to get a replacement.
The coil in of itself may have been flawed in manufacture and may have only taken this long to die. While correct in that it won't take heat in the form of current from the motor - the could does produce heat
Sorry thumb posted... Heat and a winding at a time - over time will fail eventually. BTW The coil itself is likely to be proprietary to the contacter - and likely an easier find in a new contactor than sourcing the coil alone.
he could use the isolator of the old coil and wind a new coil on it using coperwire and lackuer , he does need to measure the wire thicknes and the resistance of the working coil to make a good estemate for the amount of windings needed put the coil "bobbin" in the spindle and make sumtin that hits a rotation counter
Making a new coil, or repairing one sounds a lot like a new hobby of making truck tires out of stone with a bronze chisel. The wheel has been perfected - right off the shelf - no need to reinvent.
Hi of you cut the slot in the center of the cutter you can use either Left or right handed carbide turning tools. then it won't matter which direction you turn it. all my flycutters have a 1/2" shank so they can be used on any milling machine...you can also use it as a boring tool... Ed from Colorado
+Ironmxiden n its just a name , A name that has the sole purpose of baiting the angry, mad at the world type of person that just cannot resit commenting on it :)
ive made quite a few specialty cutters for teh mill, and the usual procedure is check, double check, make sure, and check again, and after all that, i usually end up cutting the teeth left handed anyway, so i feel your pain on that one. its actually so common for me i installed a reversing switch on my mill motor.
Adam!! Are you watching this? Make sure Tony is doing it right. Please? Oh, and Thank You for the Moisturizing Cream. Avon Rules.Ah, the memories of the scent of the Avon "Baseball" soap and sponge "Mitt" when I was 5. (1967). Maybe I was 8, in 1970. Magic memories. Thanks Mom! I have yet to experience that scent again. That and the smell of the gumball machines in the entrance/exit of an A&P Grocery store in the 60's with the rollers on tracks to bring your groceries right outside to your car, in a bin. The rollers like on your clunky roller skates before the polymer wheels came out. Anyone remember that? :-)
Great as always! As a new, self taught machinist, it would be awesome if you put the material of the tool, feedrate, and RPM you're running it at whenever you use a tool. Just a recommendation!
Well, I am glad that you did that video. Even if there was an interruption (TOTTD -- TOT Technical difficutly). I may add that it is a great pleasure to see Matthias Wandel appearing on your channel. Hi, Matthias. I have been following woodgears.ca for years, even if you use power tools. Back to fly cutters. To me your mill is huge. I have a Proxxon MF70 -- in fact my whole machine shop fits on a very small coffee-table size bench. Point here is that the angles on a fly cutter are not critical. Look at myfordboy's channel. Somewhere in there there is a video on a 45 deg cutter mounted on a sacrificial face plate at 45 deg. and he does the flycut with no mill, on a lathe. What you need is a small amount of clearance between the tip of the fly cutter and the work. What this video has shown me is that there is no magic to the 45 deg angle, and my fly cutter v0.1 will be quite different from 0.0. I thank you very much for this post.
In my humble opinion flycutting can be one of the most dangerous machining operations. One particular danger is having the toolbit protruding outside from the cutter body. The toolbit can become almost invisible when spinning, giving the impression that the edge of the cutting is performed at the cutter body edge. This extended condition also creates an out of balance tool. The leverage on the toolbit is greatly increased as its clamping zone is further from the cutting edge, reducing its security in the holder. Rigidity is key when using a flycutter & a short projection will help this & reduce the "invisible" danger area surrounding the body. A cutter body larger than the width of the part is preferable allowing the toolbit to be inside the body, removing the invisible danger area. In an ideal situation the fly cutter would only be slightly larger than the width of cut. When a relatively large swing on a cutter is used compared to the width of cut, the tooth engagement angle becomes almost 90 degrees to the part. This gives a sudden impact when the full tooth load is immediately applied on contact. This full feed of cut is maintained throughout the shallow cutting arc maintaining full load throughout. Giving a constant chip section with the force maintained at right angles to the part width. The resulting clattering of the tooth impact can lead to chatter & tool chipping. An excessive toolbit overhang also can lead to back cutting due to the increased leverage that can deflect to toolbit upwards during the cutting phase of the stroke. The back cutting is caused by the tool springing back to its unloaded condition. This is eliminated on a shaper by the clapper box allowing the tool to lift on its backstroke but not available when flycutting. Using a smaller swing, the tooth engagement angle becomes more tangential to the part. This has the effect of an initial light load on the tooth that smoothly & gradually increases then decreases to zero on exit. This greatly helps with chipping on the back edge. This light initial load is resisted by the rigid length of the part & therefore far more stable. This chip section is a crescent shape with a tapered feed to the full chip width & immediately tapering back to zero. This crescent shape directly represents the tool load & direction that's spread throughout the arc. The highest load on the tool only happens briefly half way through the arc instead of throughout the whole arc. This greatly reduces the chances of premature chipping & chatter marks, it's also a lot quieter! Another bonus is that as the tool is effectively a smaller diameter, a higher rpm can be used. The stability obtained with the load being along the length at engagement, can allow a deeper cut. If the feed per tooth remains constant then the feed can also be increased. If you don't have access to a small enough tool there is a solution to help with the issues outlined. Move the workpiece towards you until the cutter tip just passes over the front edge of the part. This will also give a tangential engagement, thereby reducing tool impact, reducing vibration & chatter, especially on thin parts. Hope you find this info useful.
Thanks Tony ! I will definately copy this on my own mill once i set her up correctly.. It's a Mark Ace and i want to face cylinder Heads with it so a flycutter is the tool i need but don't have..
Another great video. I always wonder who the hell are these people give Tony a thumbs down? I think one of them must be Clickspring for moving in on his territory :P
Love the surface finish, now you got me wanting to design one. I like to repurpose my lathe inserts into some mill cutters. Just easier to stock one style, :)
I don't know if it has been said before, but standard contactors are incredibly easy to find. If you can't find the correct coil for your contactor, check out c-3 controls for a whole new one.
I like to come back and remind This Old Tony about that surface gauge build video.... people don't forget.
Still not finished.
He hasn't made all the tools needed to make it. Next on the list is the Maho
@@jakobshanks3510 not up to spec, but already cnced
Still needs moar lube on those joints.
Any year now
Still waiting...
Wow!!!! That carbide insert raising literal heel on the steel!!!! There was pretty much fire coming out with chips in flames!!!!
Awesome!!!!
You are the bob ross of milling i don't know why its just so relaxing
Hahah
its because he's secretly alan alda
Bob Ross of machining
Amen.
Yes. This!
I've never seen someone use a turning tool on the mill. Clever!
It's called boring rod
How about an end mill in a lathe? Works really well
Have you been around a jobbing shop? Not being padantic however we do whatever gets the job done, after all we are engineers, we solve problems.
Isn’t that dangerous?
@@stevedebbiemoore That's now how the word pedantic is either used or spelled, and a machinist and engineer are very different things. See, This was pedantic.
My blood pressure went up as soon as that murder weed whacker started spinning. Something about it feels particularly terrifying.
As a "Not Machinist" I enjoyed these 2 videos very much. I like how you explain things. Great job.
Agreed - these videos are wonderfully produced and the explanations are just detailed enough.
Very cool project. I was surprised by the surface finish. Don't get your fingers caught in that. Also, I'll be borrowing that "(joke)" subtitle.
Practical Engineering Grady! Cheers from a fan in Needville, Tx! glad to see you here
That makes two of us. (!) ;) The joke subtitle is all yours.
RobbieDW, Cheers from a machining channel 60 miles away in Seabrook, TX ;)
In my apprenticeship those fly cutters were introduced to me as _butcher's hooks_ because they don't have much of a body on them which would keep you from being pulled into the cutter if touched with hand or clothing. Always be extra aware when working with them.
"everybody is a hero in aluminium", best saying ever
the coil doesn't take the amperage from the spindle motor, the actual contacts do. so if your coil is bad than it was just it's time.
Tyler Hensley hopping on this. if you want. send me some photos of the offending relay. with any numbers and such that you can find and I'll see if I can link you a replacement.
I'm inclined to think that, with the inherent vibration of a machine tool and old enamel on the turns that windings started shorting to each other, upping the coil current and starting the downward spiral to burnout.
He should just get a new contacter.
not realy important, what type or brand it is.
as long as it can take the amperage and the coil voltage is the same!
I would replace the coolant contractor , replacing the spindle contractor may be a problem as there may be a mechanical interlock between forward and reversing one as well as electrical interlock . As has been said it reached it life span no cutting load would have caused it
Contractors are not expensive . The A/C industry uses them by the millions ( although most have a 24 VAC coil , they can be purchased with different voltage coils ) . I always buy contractors that were rated 10 - 20 amps more than the original . If there is physical room for them to mount . Just match the same number of poles , voltage .
Try Johnstone Supply or W W Granger .
God bless
Wyr
These are the kinds of videos that need to be on tv. So fun to watch.
Awesome Tony. turning on the mill, you've just opened up a world of possibilities for me
3 AM in Germany, watching another video from This Old Tony because I can't sleep anymore.
Great video as always.
Wow... that fly cutter going through the aluminium block was just sweet eye candy for me! Nice work!
2 points of warm fuzziness I got from this video
1) When the threads were drilled for the grub screws and then the screws being torqued down to a perfect depth (Awesome)
2) Watching the Fly Cutter's ability to clear chips giving me a full view of the cut in all its glory (Awesome)
I really liked the hex too rather than the cylindrical piece, definitely looks more industrial!
Loved seeing the boring bar in the mill vice while the part turned on the mill. Have never seen that before.
With the tapers not concentric on the first spindle, once you turn down the taper, that wouldn't have mattered much. Or was it that you just didn't trust that the other taper was even close to what it should be?
I was thinking the same thing
Matthias? What are you doing here. And also you need to buy a mill and start that metal working.
It'd be awesome to see you venture into metalworking Matthias - could be some really interesting stuff, judging by the stuff you make out of wood. Happy new years regardless
And also true what you said
I though exact that, but maybe the tool bent or crooked in some way that will lead to vibrations or other errors.
My favorite thing about fly cutters is reflection you get in the surface finish. My second favorite thing is how it shows you how well you trammed your mill.
Just watched this for the first time, with part one. Lots of useful info, especially about speed in P1. Thanks for the excellent video. I miss your regular videos. Safe safe, Stay well.
TIL you can turn a vertical mill into a lathe with just camera perspective
You sir, are a genius. You're funny and very knowledgeable. I'm a games programmer who also dabbles in CNC. I've just found your channel. Every video is funny and entertaining AND full of useful stuff. WHY WHY WHY do we not have TV programmes like this instead of Love Island?!
CNC island!
I fall asleep to this videos almost every night
Wow... watching that thing the first time you used it was just bloody amazing!
Thanks Tony, I was amazed at how well your shop made fly cutter performed!
Great work. Nice looking fly cutter. Works well. Thank you for sharing.
I love when you give in-video indications of what tooling you're using. Such as at 6:38
Do a video on that indexable end mill! I've never seen that before, looks awesome.
Agreed. Very neat looking tool.
BTW, the contactor actuator coil draws the same no matter what power you draw through the contactor. It only holds the contacts shut. It is the contacts that carry more or less power depending on the motor load. Contacts can burn, melt, weld together or fail in other ways. The coils can fail by opening (no through connection), shorting (close connection between the two input connections), or (what it looks like your coil did) a short between two or more of the turns internally, which causes the whole coil to overheat dramatically. The last is usually a sign that the internal insulation on the windings is breaking down. It is a sort of thin enamel so if one has broken down, the other(s) may be getting iffy as well. You probably have 3 or 4 contactors (forward, reverse, maybe an on/off, and the coolant pump). It would probably pay to replace all the coils if one has failed. You can keep the ones that haven't actually failed as emergency spares.
Thanks Tony, I really enjoy your videos.
Superb, quick down and dirty with all the details that matter
13:44 - 14:01 Jesus CHRIST, how satisfying that looks!
I welded mine on, too.
I built a tool holder out of 3/4" keystock and used 1/4" HSS for the bit mostly because that's what I had.
Thanks,
John
Soooooooo, about that surface gauge build video??
It's like a unicorn...
Ooh crikey, that looks like it could grab the sleeves of a sweater just nicely.
contactors are a common industrial item, just find one with a equivalent rating. I recommend allied electric, they have a good selection.
Love your work, Im a newbie and you always answer questions with real grace and simplicity
Cool way to turn down the B taper true to the ISO-30 spindle. So obvious but a bit outside the box. You're good at that, thinking outside the box. Learned something new today also. Cool build, simple and straight forward. That is next on my project list, even have some hex stock to replicate yours. Thanks.
One thing is for sure......there are no flies on you....10/10 and thank you for posting.
I think I start to see a pattern now.. since I got my own garage now, I think I'm revisiting all these videos for inspiration...
Tony your absolute genius at explaining stuff! I just figured out how to log in & am revisiting some of your Vids' giving a thumbs up where I remember to! Just keep doing what your doing! I am unemployed at the moment & my discipline is electronic engineering, if I get a job again I'll patronise you too. Well at least your 'sublimanal' (Laugh out Loud) "marketing stratergy" finaly worked on my slow old brain! All the very best!
These videos are so soothing
Once again, great video! I have to 'hand' it to you, I've never seen such white liquid squirting accuracy.
13:50 excellent closing cinematography. worthed the two part split.
Your videos are awesome and are the most entertaining machining series on UA-cam. Thank you and don't stop making vids.. Pls.
How hard the mill is working doesn't effect the current in the coil. I'd personally recommend to get a new contactor all together. Great video as always
Another wonderful video of a great project thanks for sharing your time and experience
Enjoyed the build Tony.
I thought I was the only one to do turning in the mill...
Regards,
Duck
Clearly an OSHA approved accessory. So pretty.
With the 'technical difficulties' test pattern, I yelled out loud, "ahhh, NOT AGAIN!" :-)
Great vid as usual. Got me there with the too-late-at-night TV signal. I recommend just replacing the down contactor next time it happens. Cheap and easy and a safe bet, just how I like my women. Unless you have some complicated interlocking device which even a good interlocking set of contactors is still fairly cheap. Next time.
Nicely done Tony! Great build!
Hi, I really like these videos because it is kinda an art to a layman like myself. I really like the picture and data of the tooling your currently using in the mill for the specific cut. It gives helpful information to beginners like myself and would really like seeing it in the future. Cheers.
very good camera angles easy to see whts happening ty
Hmmmmmmm, electrical engineer here, to talk about your coil.
That's fairly abnormal. Contactors do not overheat and burn up from old age, unless the winding insulation fails and shorts out part of the winding - which is rare in an undemanding environment like a workshop.
If the coil is an AC coil, it will draw high current until the plunger completely closes. If it's prevented from closing properly, it will give this result.
Also, if you feed an AC coil with DC, you will be rewarded with a similar result.
They're certainly a commodity item. Should be cheap and easy to get a replacement.
The coil in of itself may have been flawed in manufacture and may have only taken this long to die. While correct in that it won't take heat in the form of current from the motor - the could does produce heat
Sorry thumb posted... Heat and a winding at a time - over time will fail eventually.
BTW The coil itself is likely to be proprietary to the contacter - and likely an easier find in a new contactor than sourcing the coil alone.
he could use the isolator of the old coil and wind a new coil on it using coperwire and lackuer , he does need to measure the wire thicknes and the resistance of the working coil to make a good estemate for the amount of windings needed
put the coil "bobbin" in the spindle and make sumtin that hits a rotation counter
Making a new coil, or repairing one sounds a lot like a new hobby of making truck tires out of stone with a bronze chisel. The wheel has been perfected - right off the shelf - no need to reinvent.
A true machinist would wind his own coil and make all his own tooling. buying off the shelf is for people called techs
Wow that's badass Tony. Very nice!
Hi
of you cut the slot in the center of the cutter you can use either Left or right handed carbide turning tools. then it won't matter which direction you turn it.
all my flycutters have a 1/2" shank so they can be used on any milling machine...you can also use it as a boring tool... Ed from Colorado
Good job !
I really liked the info you added on the mill cutter
Great work Tony, as usual. That run out was crazy! However, you got around it easily. Thanks for the Video.
Nicely done Tony. Try a LH brazed carbide lathe tool in there. It's what I use anytime I want a good finish in one pass.
I learned a lot. Thank you. The contractor that burnt up usually results from age and corrosion on the connections.
Nice to see you back on track!
Excellent job Tony !
+Ironmxiden n its just a name , A name that has the sole purpose of baiting the angry, mad at the world type of person that just cannot resit commenting on it :)
ive made quite a few specialty cutters for teh mill, and the usual procedure is check, double check, make sure, and check again, and after all that, i usually end up cutting the teeth left handed anyway, so i feel your pain on that one. its actually so common for me i installed a reversing switch on my mill motor.
Wow very nice build. Looks like turning the shank in the mill helped with eliminating runout
Adam!! Are you watching this? Make sure Tony is doing it right. Please? Oh, and Thank You for the Moisturizing Cream. Avon Rules.Ah, the memories of the scent of the Avon "Baseball" soap and sponge "Mitt" when I was 5. (1967). Maybe I was 8, in 1970. Magic memories. Thanks Mom! I have yet to experience that scent again. That and the smell of the gumball machines in the entrance/exit of an A&P Grocery store in the 60's with the rollers on tracks to bring your groceries right outside to your car, in a bin. The rollers like on your clunky roller skates before the polymer wheels came out. Anyone remember that? :-)
Great as always! As a new, self taught machinist, it would be awesome if you put the material of the tool, feedrate, and RPM you're running it at whenever you use a tool. Just a recommendation!
do you know where i can buy some slow speed steel?
Chevy dealership! Boom.
"Boom" is right with chevys.....
@@williamwakely1398 unsafe, but now only at slow speeds.
it shouldnt be hard to find. high speed steel is just so damned hard to catch though
@@BikingVikingHH Found On Roadside Dead
Smart! Using the index 3/8 mill as a relief for your final pass. Definitely going to use that
Happy New Year to you and yours and thanks for all your work in the past.
I never see tool like this before. unbeliveable!
Really enjoyed this. Thanks
Well, I am glad that you did that video. Even if there was an interruption (TOTTD -- TOT Technical difficutly). I may add that it is a great pleasure to see Matthias Wandel appearing on your channel. Hi, Matthias. I have been following woodgears.ca for years, even if you use power tools. Back to fly cutters. To me your mill is huge. I have a Proxxon MF70 -- in fact my whole machine shop fits on a very small coffee-table size bench. Point here is that the angles on a fly cutter are not critical. Look at myfordboy's channel. Somewhere in there there is a video on a 45 deg cutter mounted on a sacrificial face plate at 45 deg. and he does the flycut with no mill, on a lathe. What you need is a small amount of clearance between the tip of the fly cutter and the work. What this video has shown me is that there is no magic to the 45 deg angle, and my fly cutter v0.1 will be quite different from 0.0. I thank you very much for this post.
Another brilliant vid!
That looks so nice! The tool itself, and its work
That's a scary looking tool, but very cool!
Thanks for for the Addendum video, answered all my questions!
Enjoyed for sure. Thanks Tony.
Very nice build. Enjoy using it.
I was wondering why my "how to make a large flycutter" video started getting a little bump. as usual another great video tony, happy new year!
Tony , a little tip. Remove all but one insert from your face mill for your finish pass if you must use it for your finish.
Thanks!
Very nice finish. May copy this..... I happen to have some nice large hex stock too!
Fantastic video. thank you
In my humble opinion flycutting can be one of the most dangerous machining operations. One particular danger is having the toolbit protruding outside from the cutter body. The toolbit can become almost invisible when spinning, giving the impression that the edge of the cutting is performed at the cutter body edge.
This extended condition also creates an out of balance tool. The leverage on the toolbit is greatly increased as its clamping zone is further from the cutting edge, reducing its security in the holder. Rigidity is key when using a flycutter & a short projection will help this & reduce the "invisible" danger area surrounding the body.
A cutter body larger than the width of the part is preferable allowing the toolbit to be inside the body, removing the invisible danger area. In an ideal situation the fly cutter would only be slightly larger than the width of cut. When a relatively large swing on a cutter is used compared to the width of cut, the tooth engagement angle becomes almost 90 degrees to the part. This gives a sudden impact when the full tooth load is immediately applied on contact. This full feed of cut is maintained throughout the shallow cutting arc maintaining full load throughout. Giving a constant chip section with the force maintained at right angles to the part width. The resulting clattering of the tooth impact can lead to chatter & tool chipping.
An excessive toolbit overhang also can lead to back cutting due to the increased leverage that can deflect to toolbit upwards during the cutting phase of the stroke. The back cutting is caused by the tool springing back to its unloaded condition. This is eliminated on a shaper by the clapper box allowing the tool to lift on its backstroke but not available when flycutting.
Using a smaller swing, the tooth engagement angle becomes more tangential to the part. This has the effect of an initial light load on the tooth that smoothly & gradually increases then decreases to zero on exit. This greatly helps with chipping on the back edge. This light initial load is resisted by the rigid length of the part & therefore far more stable. This chip section is a crescent shape with a tapered feed to the full chip width & immediately tapering back to zero. This crescent shape directly represents the tool load & direction that's spread throughout the arc. The highest load on the tool only happens briefly half way through the arc instead of throughout the whole arc. This greatly reduces the chances of premature chipping & chatter marks, it's also a lot quieter!
Another bonus is that as the tool is effectively a smaller diameter, a higher rpm can be used. The stability obtained with the load being along the length at engagement, can allow a deeper cut. If the feed per tooth remains constant then the feed can also be increased.
If you don't have access to a small enough tool there is a solution to help with the issues outlined. Move the workpiece towards you until the cutter tip just passes over the front edge of the part. This will also give a tangential engagement, thereby reducing tool impact, reducing vibration & chatter, especially on thin parts.
Hope you find this info useful.
Thanks Tony ! I will definately copy this on my own mill once i set her up correctly.. It's a Mark Ace and i want to face cylinder Heads with it so a flycutter is the tool i need but don't have..
Cheers for that. I am going to make one out of 316 stainless bar because I can buy it very cheaply (from a scrap merchant) and I have some 1 3/4" bar.
I fell asleep to this last night
The fly cutter turned out very well. I was thinking you could possibly make some other tool from the bent one.
We all miss you so much
Excellent work as always.
Another great video. I always wonder who the hell are these people give Tony a thumbs down? I think one of them must be Clickspring for moving in on his territory :P
I have no idea what you are doing.. but I like it!
Love your videos, thank you.
Is balancing a fly cutter a big concern for the speeds you typically use it at ?
I love your videos. Keep it up Tony!
Very nice work mate, great to watch
You're the best Tony.
Brilliant videos. learning a lot. Thanks.
another great video .. thank you
Love the surface finish, now you got me wanting to design one. I like to repurpose my lathe inserts into some mill cutters. Just easier to stock one style, :)
I don't know if it has been said before, but standard contactors are incredibly easy to find. If you can't find the correct coil for your contactor, check out c-3 controls for a whole new one.
Using the Mill to Turn.
Mind...
Blown...
Thanks for sharing! Much appreciated! :)