Love the improvisation. The fit of your dovetails is impressive. Well done. 👏👏👍😀 Using the four jaw chuck as an improvised boring head in order to make a boring head was inspired 👌👍
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! Yes, you can use the four jaw chuck as a boring head, but I wanted a real boring head which makes working with a lot easier. But the new boring head will be used on the lathe as well :)
hey love the video as usual. The stuff you make is always great. One tip i would like to give you is when you set the stop on your bandsaw, after you get the material clamped in the saw at the length youre wanting usuing the stop, i would back the stop away for the cut so that the saw blade doesnt catch as hard on the material and slam it into the saw. Just a tip, everything else is great tho.
Using what machine tools you have and your incredible skill and patience to produce this additional tooling, what a pleasure to see such good work and a spectacular result. Keep up the great effort.
When cutting dovetails end mill first is cool but you should definitely do the slitting saw operation before using the dovetail. All the strain from the 45 deg cutter is at the tip because there is nowhere for the chips to go. So adding that space at the tip will prolong your cutter and you can cut faster.
That was exactly what I thought while editing the video. I think doing the undercut first would have made milling the dovetails way easier. Thanks for your advice.
It's a good idea to back off on the depth stop once the cut has started on your bandsaw and certainly before it breaks through, might save your blade if the cut off work jams, just sayin'.
We always put a piece of material between the part you cut off and the stop. This piece was a exact length (100mm I believe) and removed it once the material was clamped. That way it was still easy to have parts cut the same length, but you still protect the blade.
@@tazthedevil22 A bandsaw blade's kerf width is rarely accurate or precise. The set of the teeth can vary widely not only from blade to blade, but from tooth to tooth. Even temperature, hardness of the material being cut, and wear have an effect on it. Your best bet is to slightly oversize and mill down to final dimension.
16:50 Have you considered some soft jaws for your vice? Maybe a set of copper ones like your lathe chuck, or some leather ones for softer metals... None the less, you do beautiful work.
Absolutely great work!! 👍 i have a Proxxon PD 250 Micro Lathe an a FF230 Micro Mill and i know how hard it is to get good results with steel. great build!! Thank you for sharing! 🤘
Vielen Dank! :) Ja, da hast du recht. So richtig Spaß macht das Rändelfräsen in dem Stahl auf der Maschine auch nicht, aber das Ergebnis ist ziemlich gut. Und mit Rändeldrücken könnte man's wahrscheinlich echt vergessen :)
Was that a carbide slitting saw used near the start of the video. If so, lucky you having such tooling. If HSS, you're running it too fast! You should not have sparks from HSS tooling. Looks like you're running the dovetail cutter too fast too!
Hi and thanks for the comment! It is a carbide saw blade I'm using here. It is from Proxxon, a 50mm carbide saw blade with 1,1mm width. This one is pretty affordable as it is not fully carbide, only the cutting edges are carbide. I don't know why it sparked while cutting. Perhaps it is just dull I guess. The 0,5mm saw blade I used later in the video for the clamping cut is from solid carbide and pretty expensive.
Thanks for your comment. You mean an automatic facing head? That would be great. I actually thought about that. It's at least two numbers more complicated and I think no one on UA-cam has really done it from scratch. So perhaps I will try some day.
Maybe drilling, sawing and 'hitting things with hammers' was way slower than milling, but, hitting things with hammers is good for you. Very satisfying result when necessary 😁 I watched part two first but had to watch part one to see exactly what you did. Knurled ring was a good idea. It does look good and I'm sure it has practical use, my 50mm boring head (bought, Chinese) could do with same Not sure if it would be possible to make knurl in Cr-Mo without a cut knurling tool as it's damn tough stuff Reading the description for material and why you did things was most informative, I don't always expand the text to read it, I guess I should.
That is actually a very good question. Not really sure. Perhaps becaus it is easier to lapp the shaft to final size when the last millimeters get covered by another part. Lapping directly against a shoulder is very difficult.
I'm looking into adding bushings for my the spindle of my chinese drill press. So that the spindle doesn't slide directly in the casting bores? Any tips from you? Any chance I'de get a matching internal 40 mm diameter cylinder off the shelf somehow? I'm intending to enlarge the casting bores by hand.
Make friend with a strong angle grinder AKA Flex with a good Disc. you save enorm ammounts of time rough cutting parts to size when yur milling machine has not enough Schmalz. thats what i did when i had a small mill, now i cant complain with my cormak, allthough a deckel or fps would be nice :) Greets from Vienna
You should immediately check your metal supply. Your materials are definately afflicted with Hairy Metal Syndrome. You need to get that under control before you develop Hairy Palm Syndrome from handling your stock....
Click here for part 2 - the finishing: ua-cam.com/video/44vBR1tjNCs/v-deo.html
To me, it’s like getting a This Old Tony video…just quality content 👍🏻
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I'm humbled by your words! Happy to hear, you like my work.
Love the improvisation.
The fit of your dovetails is impressive. Well done. 👏👏👍😀
Using the four jaw chuck as an improvised boring head in order to make a boring head was inspired 👌👍
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! Yes, you can use the four jaw chuck as a boring head, but I wanted a real boring head which makes working with a lot easier. But the new boring head will be used on the lathe as well :)
Beautiful work, and so close to the limits of what can be done with small tools/machines. Very nicely done.
Thank you very much for your kind words!
hey love the video as usual. The stuff you make is always great. One tip i would like to give you is when you set the stop on your bandsaw, after you get the material clamped in the saw at the length youre wanting usuing the stop, i would back the stop away for the cut so that the saw blade doesnt catch as hard on the material and slam it into the saw. Just a tip, everything else is great tho.
Very nice - I am looking forward to the next part of this build.
Thank you very much! It should be ready in about 2 weeks.
I have never been so Bored by a video ;)
:D haha!
Beautiful work (both machining and videography)! I am looking forward to part 2. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that :)
Using what machine tools you have and your incredible skill and patience to produce this additional tooling, what a pleasure to see such good work and a spectacular result. Keep up the great effort.
Thank you so much for your kind words and feedback! I really do appreciate that! Happy to hear, you like what I'm doing:)
It is a pleasure to watching your videos.
Thank you very much, happy to hear!
you are a true creator!I cheer for you.❤❤❤❤
Thank you very much! :)
When cutting dovetails end mill first is cool but you should definitely do the slitting saw operation before using the dovetail. All the strain from the 45 deg cutter is at the tip because there is nowhere for the chips to go. So adding that space at the tip will prolong your cutter and you can cut faster.
That was exactly what I thought while editing the video. I think doing the undercut first would have made milling the dovetails way easier. Thanks for your advice.
I really like your dovetail cutter.😊😊😊
Nice, again a big project for the (to) small machines.
Thanks! And yes, I agree with you.
Looks greats so far. Will be waiting for the final video.
It's a good idea to back off on the depth stop once the cut has started on your bandsaw and certainly before it breaks through, might save your blade if the cut off work jams, just sayin'.
Thanks for your kind feedback and tip. I have to do it the way you said next time.
We always put a piece of material between the part you cut off and the stop. This piece was a exact length (100mm I believe) and removed it once the material was clamped. That way it was still easy to have parts cut the same length, but you still protect the blade.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Yea, that does sound like a good idea... ;)
@@tazthedevil22 A bandsaw blade's kerf width is rarely accurate or precise. The set of the teeth can vary widely not only from blade to blade, but from tooth to tooth. Even temperature, hardness of the material being cut, and wear have an effect on it. Your best bet is to slightly oversize and mill down to final dimension.
Your work is very well planned.Thank you.
Thank you very much!
16:50 Have you considered some soft jaws for your vice? Maybe a set of copper ones like your lathe chuck, or some leather ones for softer metals...
None the less, you do beautiful work.
Great video, as always. Can't wait for part 2!
Absolutely great work!! 👍 i have a Proxxon PD 250 Micro Lathe an a FF230 Micro Mill and i know how hard it is to get good results with steel. great build!! Thank you for sharing! 🤘
A truly awesome job!
Thanks!
Schöne Arbeit soweit. Zum Glück hast du dir den Fräsrändeler gebaut. In 42CrMo zu drücken kannste vergessen. Ist echt gut geworden.
Vielen Dank! :) Ja, da hast du recht. So richtig Spaß macht das Rändelfräsen in dem Stahl auf der Maschine auch nicht, aber das Ergebnis ist ziemlich gut. Und mit Rändeldrücken könnte man's wahrscheinlich echt vergessen :)
That little mill is hanging on for dear life! 😂
I like this video thank you for sharing it to view I wish your channel more success
Thank you very much for your kind comment! A few more subscribers would be great, yes... :)
Was that a carbide slitting saw used near the start of the video. If so, lucky you having such tooling. If HSS, you're running it too fast! You should not have sparks from HSS tooling.
Looks like you're running the dovetail cutter too fast too!
Hi and thanks for the comment! It is a carbide saw blade I'm using here. It is from Proxxon, a 50mm carbide saw blade with 1,1mm width. This one is pretty affordable as it is not fully carbide, only the cutting edges are carbide. I don't know why it sparked while cutting. Perhaps it is just dull I guess. The 0,5mm saw blade I used later in the video for the clamping cut is from solid carbide and pretty expensive.
The ring pattern is from the material itself. It was rolled/knead during the production process....
That's interesting, thanks.
That could very well be the case. Lapped myself some hardened bars and was confronted with the same ring pattern.
@@Michel-Uphoff That's very interesting to hear, that this problem occurs to others as well :)
Interesting. Thanks. Do you by chance have a video of making the copper soft jaws?
Hi and thanks. I've made a video on this exact topic ;) ua-cam.com/video/fZ0A0_GDq24/v-deo.html
Got all excited thinking you were making a live adjustable boring head
Thanks for your comment. You mean an automatic facing head? That would be great. I actually thought about that. It's at least two numbers more complicated and I think no one on UA-cam has really done it from scratch. So perhaps I will try some day.
Just got a Seig mill SX2.7. Is there anything that you have learnt that will help me to use it?. Thanks for all your videos.
Maybe drilling, sawing and 'hitting things with hammers' was way slower than milling, but, hitting things with hammers is good for you.
Very satisfying result when necessary 😁
I watched part two first but had to watch part one to see exactly what you did.
Knurled ring was a good idea. It does look good and I'm sure it has practical use, my 50mm boring head (bought, Chinese) could do with same
Not sure if it would be possible to make knurl in Cr-Mo without a cut knurling tool as it's damn tough stuff
Reading the description for material and why you did things was most informative, I don't always expand the text to read it, I guess I should.
Nice job! Can you please tell me what brand/model of your lathe? Thanks
Why not knurling the body instead of machining off lots of material and then adding back a ring?
That is actually a very good question. Not really sure. Perhaps becaus it is easier to lapp the shaft to final size when the last millimeters get covered by another part. Lapping directly against a shoulder is very difficult.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter very impressed with the whole build!!! but i missed the point of the knurled disc altogether... what is that for?
It would do well for positioning by fingers
I'm looking into adding bushings for my the spindle of my chinese drill press. So that the spindle doesn't slide directly in the casting bores? Any tips from you? Any chance I'de get a matching internal 40 mm diameter cylinder off the shelf somehow? I'm intending to enlarge the casting bores by hand.
Good Job
Thanks!
What hard working hands you have.
عمل رائع ودقة متناهية وكانك سي ان سي لاكن لماذا لم اراك تستخدم زيت التبريد والتشحيم وهو ظروي للحفاظ على الادوات
Не подскажите модель пилы?
В целом отличная работа!
Can anyone please explain me how is he able to find the right angle for the wokrpiece in the vice using a cylinder piece? Like at 7:20 or 8:31
nice one ! realy u can be proud with those machines! if i would have more money , you would be the person whom i would donate a machine :)
That spiral pattern looks like the pitch of the leadscrew, BTW I know nothing about lathes :)
ya made my morning.
Great to hear, you like my work.
Make friend with a strong angle grinder AKA Flex with a good Disc. you save enorm ammounts of time rough cutting parts to size when yur milling machine has not enough Schmalz. thats what i did when i had a small mill, now i cant complain with my cormak, allthough a deckel or fps would be nice :) Greets from Vienna
Professionnel
why are the chips / workpiece magnetized
👍👍👍
WOW super cleen
Thanks!
👍👋
Работа профессионала спасибо за видео Вам бы станки по серьезней , вообще было бы класс
sweeet.
bro turned up magnetic forces is his shop...
Yea mkay.
He doesn’t even know how hold the round piece in the vise ! 😆😆😆😆
That's a sexy boring head if I do say so myself.
And I do.
Thanks ;)
You should immediately check your metal supply. Your materials are definately afflicted with Hairy Metal Syndrome. You need to get that under control before you develop Hairy Palm Syndrome from handling your stock....
Or worse, hairy potter's syndrome if he smokes pot.
I’ve got tools that make tools.
It's as easy as that :)
Быстрорежущая сталь не работает на таких больших оборотах!
your part is having a bad hair day. ;)
:D
For the love of all that’s holy! Pleeeeease change your micrometer battery!!!
Uh, is it low? I didn't notice that :)
Just going to say it, and I am sure I will be banned for it...... no such thing as boring head. Wink wink, nudge nudge,
how to make a machine to make a boring head.
oft langweilig weil es in die Länge gezogen wird.
ok
This video is full of boring operations 😂
hehe ;)
Pretty boring right?
tram your mill you probably wont get chatter
I have to check that. But the machine itself isn't very strong.