Lol yeahp I went all out, but if you don't need the swapping capability then stick with the V6 or go for a phaetus dragon which will save you $50 over the Revo. 🍻
If you have to correct z-offset for 0.25mm nozzle, you only have to do it once on the mk3(s(+)). If you use smooth springsteel, store z-offset for 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 for "smooth" and add a second springsteel "smooth025" to store 0.25 offset there. So you not need to correct z-offset after nozzle swap in the future anymore, just select another springsteel...
@@QEngineering Actually I use the sheet management quite often: PEI-Sheet, Prusa Textured, Prusa Smooth Textured, Fystec Textured (much wider pattern, like theese old machines with hammer treated silver coated metal, quite nice if you print silver PLA) and trianglelab textured (Like Prusa TXT with more dense pattern). So I already use 5 spring steels. If I remember correctly, only 6 steels can be stored. But have not updated firmware lately. I might be able to store only one 0.25 sheet - have you tried the textured Prusa sheet with such a thin nozzle? I am a bit unsure if such a small nozzle work with the texture and a thin first layer. Anyways, If I remember correctly, you also can adjust a z-offset in Prusa Slicer in printer settings. So if you setup the z-offset-difference there and save this new profile, you automaticly take care for different offset without adjusting anything on the printer. I just got my Revo Six full Set last week. Just tested 0.4 and 0.8 for now and I am pretty amazed. The quality defintly has improved. I just ordered a Revo Mini full set for updating my Prusa Mini and a Revo Six 0.4 hotend for a second mk3s (a Clone). The third mk3s Clone has a Dragon hotend with 0.4 mm nozzleX for abrasives. I a have quite a few printers (my hobby is more about tinkering on printers than actually using them), so the new Revo is about to significant torture my bank account...
@@oleurgast730 I have a textured bed that I used on the mk3 but since I set it up so many years ago I just forgot about it ... Especially since my switchwire acquired it a few months ago. I tried the textured sheet on a Prusa MK2.5 with a .25 many years ago and I couldn't get a .1 layer height to be reliable on it. Bumping it up to around .15 first layer is when it started working good. I know the pain on the bank account, I built the v0 and a switchwire back to back. I also upgraded my v0 use the new skr pico board and updated the switchwire to a dual Bowden system.
Thank you, I purchased a 2nd Revo for my Voron. I'll do a follow-up video on it. But I can say it's a solid system that I have had very little issues with. I tend to break toys and this one is putting up a very good fight 🍻
Thanks for this review. I was wondering if it was required to do a bed leveling every time the nozzle was changed. Glad you provided the answer to that. Do you know if the Revo Six is sold here in Canada or we need to order direct from E3D in Europe?
Hi, some people have came out and said they had to make small corrections, but I've never heard anyone tell me that they had to do anymore then 0.1. I ordered mine right from E3D within an hour if it going up for pre-order, that's why I got it so quick. I did see that Spools3D.ca has them up for sale, they are out of Calgary. 🍻
Hey there, I found your video while searching for the release notes of the latest firmware. For those of you like me who naively flashed the latest firmware and were treated to a loud BEEEEEEP and a thermal-related error, you will need to either downgrade to 3.11.x or use Pronterface to send M310 S0 then M500 to disable the new thermal model protection which is causing the issue. I got the Revo6 for the office MK3S+ because I was getting a lot of hotend leakage. Turns out, I suck at hot tightening and I should really be using a torque wrench.
Great comment!! I tend to stay with any stable version of the Prusa firmware for a while. I just remove the firmware check option in the slicer to get rid of the nag message. My Prusa MK3 and Voron V0 are mey daily drivers so I stay with what works as long as I can. I tend to do a lot of tinkering on my MK3 and Voron Switchwire.
The only problem I have been having with it is printing PETG. The first layer likes to get filament stuck to the large diameter face of the nozzle. Print quality is still good so far, just that first layer is a problem
@@QEngineering I have, it helped. It still doesn’t like that first layer but at least it stays now. Any higher and it will be too high and won’t stick at all
@@cfnaround1585 try slowing it down a bit. I generally print my first layer of PETG at 10mm/s that gives it time to flow down and stick. Just remember PETG likes to flow down rather then be squished. Another thing you may do is lower your extrusion multiplier a bit. And don't be afraid to use a bit of gluestick when dialing in your first layer (none textured sheers only). I like to use it because it lets me inspect things even if they aren't perfect, And the act of pealing it acts like strength test. Just the thinnest layer you can managed. Best of luck 🤞 🍻
Hey q keep up the good work. As a fellow Canadian its great to see the content. Just curious what type of engineer and tradesmen are you? Myself im a millwright but have been enjoying some of the cad stuff I've been trying to tackle. The learning curve is very steep.
I'm an electrical engineer by schooling, I was an Avionics Tech (aircraft electrician) when I was in the forces and now I drive millwrights crazy by walking around with my hands in my pockets (aka Industrial Electrician). CAD does take time, but since you already know how to fabricate thing you'll have a much easier time designing things. Think build the base material, cut away what you don't need and add extras. I go by Q363Q on reddit, hit me up if you need any help with anything. 🍻
@@QEngineering thanks for the reply. Yes I had a fun time learning the a2plus assembly work bench today. It wasn't without issues but I did manage to bang together an assembly.
Sorry to here that your having issues with your Revo. Did you do any tunning after the install? I did a PID tune followed by by an extrusion e-step calibration. I can't recall how much different of a difference I had in the extruder e rate but I can recall that it run a bit easier then the v6.
So Ive been printing with the MMU2s and Revo for a little over a week now. Im printing composites of ASA/TPU 98A. Ive had more success in the last week than I did for the month leading up to it with the stock V6 hotend. I'm noticing better tips and less heat creep which is critical with the TPU. Im loving it.
Great overview and I was happy to hear that the Z-offset is stabile between nozzle changes. If the problem PLA you mentioned is HTPLA, I've had good luck with 240C hotend temperature setting.
That's brilliant! I didn't think of that. The filament is a hot mess, I ordered black, the box said black but there was a white roll inside. Figured what the hell I'm painting it anyways, and its never printed right. It has this rough texture on the outside, its much lighter then normal PLA (almost as if it was aerated during manufacturing). So maybe its not just the colour that was wrong but the material type. 🍻
The first thing I used my 3D printer for was to make models for gaming, I got the wise idea to use wood filament not knowing it was abrasive ... Needless to say when I started doing mechanical prints I could never get my dimensions right. .... Drove me nuts. Apparently a hardened nozzle is coming for the Revo, although I haven't heard of any dates yet. And if it's in any reviewers/testers hands they are keeping a tight lip about it. 🍻
Thank you, there is a follow-up video where I printed a single benchy, using all 4 nozzles and doing nozzle changes mid print if you are interested in that crazy idea. I am currently stress testing the revo by printing new storage boxes for my workshop, I'll do a follow-up after in get a few spools of PETG and ABS through it. Thank you for leaving a comment and scotchscribing 🍻
Probably the best user review I've heard so far on the revo... "I swapped.... I swapped... I swapped" :P
Lol yeahp I went all out, but if you don't need the swapping capability then stick with the V6 or go for a phaetus dragon which will save you $50 over the Revo.
🍻
If you have to correct z-offset for 0.25mm nozzle, you only have to do it once on the mk3(s(+)). If you use smooth springsteel, store z-offset for 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 for "smooth" and add a second springsteel "smooth025" to store 0.25 offset there. So you not need to correct z-offset after nozzle swap in the future anymore, just select another springsteel...
Great point, I forgot that you could add more, been a while since if I had to do it.
🍻
@@QEngineering Actually I use the sheet management quite often: PEI-Sheet, Prusa Textured, Prusa Smooth Textured, Fystec Textured (much wider pattern, like theese old machines with hammer treated silver coated metal, quite nice if you print silver PLA) and trianglelab textured (Like Prusa TXT with more dense pattern).
So I already use 5 spring steels. If I remember correctly, only 6 steels can be stored. But have not updated firmware lately.
I might be able to store only one 0.25 sheet - have you tried the textured Prusa sheet with such a thin nozzle? I am a bit unsure if such a small nozzle work with the texture and a thin first layer.
Anyways, If I remember correctly, you also can adjust a z-offset in Prusa Slicer in printer settings. So if you setup the z-offset-difference there and save this new profile, you automaticly take care for different offset without adjusting anything on the printer.
I just got my Revo Six full Set last week. Just tested 0.4 and 0.8 for now and I am pretty amazed. The quality defintly has improved. I just ordered a Revo Mini full set for updating my Prusa Mini and a Revo Six 0.4 hotend for a second mk3s (a Clone). The third mk3s Clone has a Dragon hotend with 0.4 mm nozzleX for abrasives.
I a have quite a few printers (my hobby is more about tinkering on printers than actually using them), so the new Revo is about to significant torture my bank account...
@@oleurgast730 I have a textured bed that I used on the mk3 but since I set it up so many years ago I just forgot about it ... Especially since my switchwire acquired it a few months ago.
I tried the textured sheet on a Prusa MK2.5 with a .25 many years ago and I couldn't get a .1 layer height to be reliable on it. Bumping it up to around .15 first layer is when it started working good.
I know the pain on the bank account, I built the v0 and a switchwire back to back. I also upgraded my v0 use the new skr pico board and updated the switchwire to a dual Bowden system.
Review brought to the point. Very well done
Thank you,
I purchased a 2nd Revo for my Voron. I'll do a follow-up video on it. But I can say it's a solid system that I have had very little issues with. I tend to break toys and this one is putting up a very good fight
🍻
Great upgrade, 👍
Looking forward for an update video.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍 😀
You're welcome.
🍻
I would love to see videos on the process you do to solve those little printing issues.
I'll roll out the camera the next time I have to do some tuning.
🍻
Very nice review! But I couldn't stop betting on that shot glass spilling while you abundantly gesticulate while holding it ;)
We don't spill a drop on this channel my friend, we're what you call "professionals"
🍻
Thanks for this review. I was wondering if it was required to do a bed leveling every time the nozzle was changed. Glad you provided the answer to that. Do you know if the Revo Six is sold here in Canada or we need to order direct from E3D in Europe?
Hi, some people have came out and said they had to make small corrections, but I've never heard anyone tell me that they had to do anymore then 0.1.
I ordered mine right from E3D within an hour if it going up for pre-order, that's why I got it so quick.
I did see that Spools3D.ca has them up for sale, they are out of Calgary.
🍻
@@QEngineering Thanks!
@@TessierWork anytime.
🍻
Hey there, I found your video while searching for the release notes of the latest firmware. For those of you like me who naively flashed the latest firmware and were treated to a loud BEEEEEEP and a thermal-related error, you will need to either downgrade to 3.11.x or use Pronterface to send M310 S0 then M500 to disable the new thermal model protection which is causing the issue.
I got the Revo6 for the office MK3S+ because I was getting a lot of hotend leakage. Turns out, I suck at hot tightening and I should really be using a torque wrench.
Great comment!!
I tend to stay with any stable version of the Prusa firmware for a while. I just remove the firmware check option in the slicer to get rid of the nag message.
My Prusa MK3 and Voron V0 are mey daily drivers so I stay with what works as long as I can. I tend to do a lot of tinkering on my MK3 and Voron Switchwire.
The only problem I have been having with it is printing PETG. The first layer likes to get filament stuck to the large diameter face of the nozzle. Print quality is still good so far, just that first layer is a problem
PetG doesn't like to be squished like PLA or ABS, try moving your nozzle up 0.05-0.1 mm when printing petg.
Let me know if that helps.
🍻
@@QEngineering I have, it helped. It still doesn’t like that first layer but at least it stays now. Any higher and it will be too high and won’t stick at all
@@cfnaround1585 try slowing it down a bit. I generally print my first layer of PETG at 10mm/s that gives it time to flow down and stick. Just remember PETG likes to flow down rather then be squished.
Another thing you may do is lower your extrusion multiplier a bit.
And don't be afraid to use a bit of gluestick when dialing in your first layer (none textured sheers only). I like to use it because it lets me inspect things even if they aren't perfect, And the act of pealing it acts like strength test. Just the thinnest layer you can managed.
Best of luck 🤞
🍻
Hey q keep up the good work. As a fellow Canadian its great to see the content. Just curious what type of engineer and tradesmen are you? Myself im a millwright but have been enjoying some of the cad stuff I've been trying to tackle. The learning curve is very steep.
I'm an electrical engineer by schooling, I was an Avionics Tech (aircraft electrician) when I was in the forces and now I drive millwrights crazy by walking around with my hands in my pockets (aka Industrial Electrician).
CAD does take time, but since you already know how to fabricate thing you'll have a much easier time designing things. Think build the base material, cut away what you don't need and add extras.
I go by Q363Q on reddit, hit me up if you need any help with anything.
🍻
@@QEngineering thanks for the reply. Yes I had a fun time learning the a2plus assembly work bench today. It wasn't without issues but I did manage to bang together an assembly.
@@Juiceboxmakes anytime brother, skilled trades gotta stick together.
I love the info, how about putting down the dam glass.!!!
ua-cam.com/video/D22pE_9LAxg/v-deo.html
🍻
My revo six has horrible artifacting, I switched back to the normal v6 and it was gone I’m so lost
Sorry to here that your having issues with your Revo. Did you do any tunning after the install? I did a PID tune followed by by an extrusion e-step calibration. I can't recall how much different of a difference I had in the extruder e rate but I can recall that it run a bit easier then the v6.
How is the filament tip ? Ready for mmu2s?
Sorry, I don't have any experience with the mmu2s so I do not know what to look for problem wise.
My revo is in the mail and I'm going to test it with the MMU, I'll let you know (I'm hoping for improved tips also!)
So Ive been printing with the MMU2s and Revo for a little over a week now. Im printing composites of ASA/TPU 98A. Ive had more success in the last week than I did for the month leading up to it with the stock V6 hotend. I'm noticing better tips and less heat creep which is critical with the TPU. Im loving it.
@@sm1980able that's sweet, I'll probably put a Revo and dual extruder on my switchwire later this summer.
@@QEngineering Cheers. If only I was nearby to you we could have a drink and chat about it more!
Great overview and I was happy to hear that the Z-offset is stabile between nozzle changes. If the problem PLA you mentioned is HTPLA, I've had good luck with 240C hotend temperature setting.
That's brilliant! I didn't think of that.
The filament is a hot mess, I ordered black, the box said black but there was a white roll inside. Figured what the hell I'm painting it anyways, and its never printed right. It has this rough texture on the outside, its much lighter then normal PLA (almost as if it was aerated during manufacturing). So maybe its not just the colour that was wrong but the material type.
🍻
"Do you like to print with exotic fillaments"
Me: At first yes, then I had to change a nozzle after clouginc it. never touched exotic since.
The first thing I used my 3D printer for was to make models for gaming, I got the wise idea to use wood filament not knowing it was abrasive ... Needless to say when I started doing mechanical prints I could never get my dimensions right. .... Drove me nuts.
Apparently a hardened nozzle is coming for the Revo, although I haven't heard of any dates yet. And if it's in any reviewers/testers hands they are keeping a tight lip about it.
🍻
Great video. Please do a follow up. Subscribed. 👍👍
Thank you, there is a follow-up video where I printed a single benchy, using all 4 nozzles and doing nozzle changes mid print if you are interested in that crazy idea.
I am currently stress testing the revo by printing new storage boxes for my workshop, I'll do a follow-up after in get a few spools of PETG and ABS through it.
Thank you for leaving a comment and scotchscribing 🍻