Is Zero Waste possible with a BambuLab AMS 3D printer?
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- Check out Leon Fischer-Skipper's Purge reduction script makerworld.com/en/models/91241
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0:00 The waste problem
1:24 Cthulhu and Friends
2:49 Common sense waste reduction
6:11 Adding a flush object
8:34 Looking inside the problem
12:34 The secret script
13:12 By our forces combined
18:22 Near, but not Zero
19:22 Multi color suprise
20:47 Conclusion - Розваги
A lot of people are asking about cutting early and returning to the print before finishing the layer. I had that same thought initially, and even mentioned it in the previous video about this subject, but this solution is more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop the layer early to do the cut. This sounds simple but but often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line? Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop and turn a single GCode command into two so you can pause to cut? Either way you're adding a new seam to your wall, which is unsightly.
Then, what if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors to a layer? I'm talking small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets even more complicated!
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time that Bambulab's programmers can focus on other things.
For more ways Bambulabs can improve things, check the blogaroo: www.3dpprofessor.com/2024/03/09/is-zero-purge-on-the-bambulab-ams-3d-printers-possible/
If it could be calculated such that the cut is done before starting infill, the infill could be finished entirely with purge and only any necessary purge after the infill would be wasted. Or, it could retract and cut before starting infill and do as much purge as is calculated to be necessary to waste and then finish the infill with the rest of the purge so it hits the overkill purge phase before starting on walls. Combining that strategy with purge objects could end up resulting in as near to zero waste as possible, albeit with likely some messy infill. We will definitely get more efficient algorithms as time goes on.
If it still purges some of the original colour, why not just pull out early and print some of that purge colour on your print before the transition? Rather than stopping it when done and THEN purging, begin purging on the last few cm of output since the urge seemed to be the largest section!?
@@jonathanberry1111 I do not see how the post your replying to didn't answer the question you're asking.
@@3dpprofessor I think maybe I'm suggesting something a little different, essentially when you pull out the filament, cut it and push new stuff through you have some amount of original colour purge that is 100% essentially still the old colour, I didn't think that was being printed with to finish up that portion of the colour buy maybe I'm wrong. I thought it stopped printing a given colour and then began purging, rather than purging to finish the portion of the colour?
If you are printing 4 objects in different colours you can select print by object instead of by layer and this will print each object before moving on to the next, this will save you oodles of wasted filament as there will only be one filament purge per object.
Yes, that's a good setting to know. I didn't mention it because that wasn't the point of this video and would have made the video run a bit longer as I'd have to explain about spacing things out so that you don't get a nozzle crash (though the slicer does help you with this).
You get a thumbs up just for the tie alone!
A version of the false hydra would be very cool to see in the Cthulhu series.
We did end up with a hydra hydra.
Thanks for the detailed explanation of the thought process behind this.
Seems like a simple solution for Bambu, make it automatically retract when using Bambu filliment where they can test them all.
Then they can claim use Bambu filliment and you will have less waist.
I think it will be fair to say you may have some people saying they are monopolizing there filliment, but I feel it's fair to say they can't test all other manufacturers and at the end of the day you could probably trick your printer in thinking it's Bambu filliment at your own risk.
Love my AMS, it allows me to use multiple materials and colors one one plate (do print by object, so that it only changes materials after finishing one object, and before starting on the next object). Not needing to manually change spools between your most used filaments is also very nice. I’ve not done a single full multi color print, just a handful of icons, or maybe some text in a different color on the first, or last two layers.
Though I have made extensive use of multi material supports, setting PETG as support interface material for PLA, ABS, and ASA, and use PLA for PETG. Using them only as support interface materials gives you super clean, easily detaching supports with minimal waste.
Just make sure to increase the purge value by 2x, or set the primary filament to pure white, and the support to pure black regardless of actual color. This is to ensure you get only the pure material in the print. If the mixed filaments are not properly purged away, your print will get a very weak section in the layer above the support, because that layer contains a mix of two incompatible materials that do not adhere to each other, and thus the layers detach almost as easily as the supports do.
How do you designate the printer to use one as filament for the print and one for only supports? Ive never seen a setting for this in Bambu Slicer/
@@anthonylong5870 you use the same material for support as the main part. You swap only for support interface. Search around in yt, you will find the tutorials
@@anthonylong5870 go to the support tab, and then right below Raft, you will see something called filament for supports. Here you can choose the support material, and the interface material.
And below that again in the advanced section, you can set the support interface distance to 0, and the amount of top and bottom support interface layers you want
Always love being smart with what you have to reduce waist. Great video. 👍
I wish bambu lab would come out with a multi head printer with each head dedicated to a color and even type of filament, but I imagine you would go from a x1c $1500 printer to double or triple the cost. But there would essentially be no waste.
Double? I wish it would be so little. Quad at least. Most of the cost would be engineering research.
Plastic waste is on my mind more every time I print. I'm going to have to start thinking about various purge "blocks" that I can create where color doesn't matter. Possibly various brackets, gears, or basically any other section that would normally be hidden inside of something doesn't matter if it's a muddy grey or a dirty light color. Also, I have a feeling that the modified g-code would work for most of my prints that are printed with basic PLA. Hopefully it's updated to immediately push the clipped filament back into the hot end before it has a chance to cool down in the heat break and cause a clog. That would be my only concern about using the change as is.
maybe try to figure out if you could use purge for aprt of the infill?
Just got an X1 Carbon and AMS and am printing my first multi color print. I watched your other Video on the subject and this came on next. from an hour ago! perfect timing! haha I love my 3 collored articulated FOX and hope I can reduce the poop! XD
I wrote you a message on printables! Thanks for doing a video!
Awesome to connect with you here!
Has the pull cut push thing happened?
Seems totally the way to go 👍🏻
Good info thx!
🤷♂️it's progress, thanx for all your work
Love the tie!!
It's one of my favorites because it has a tie.. on the tie!
You could check the ERCF v2 color changer for klipper machines. It does EXACTLY what you expect but is clearly for passionate and advanced makers, not for a customer that use it as an appliance.
We can control the amount of cut filaments, tip forming for more reliable feed, cooling and ramming etc..
Biggest factor for me is orientation and using surface text printed horizontally instead of embedded.
Worth noting that the reduce purge script was included in the latest beta release of bambuslicer
The perfect every time overkill option should be the default, though there should be a setting or option that allows you to do the waste reduction procedure you mentioned, maybe even give it it a little pop up warning and confirmation button and a troubleshooting guide to minimize the amount of support requests this would inevitably cause
I like this.
Why arent the default settings to purge to infill
Good question. It is in the profile I introduced in this video, so that's good.
@3dpprofessor yes, i meant it more as a we should pester bambu about it, because it really should be the default setting.
even the 3 block purge was higher than a no purge object print on my tool changer lol.
New to 3d printing and I've got a Prusa Mk4.
Not tried messing with any custom gcodes but, I've asked ChatGPT for help!
Arbitrarily, I've told ChatGPT to retract the filament by 1cm, cut it, then advance the filament again by 0.75cm - these numbers will almost certainly need tweaking with experimentations!
Here's the result:
***
; G-code for filament color change with retraction and advancement
; Set units to millimeters
G21
; Set absolute positioning mode
G90
; Set initial feed rate
F3000
; Start printing
; Layer 1
G1 Z0.2 ; Move to layer height
G1 X10 Y10 ; Move to starting position
G1 E10 ; Extrude filament
; Layer 2
G1 Z0.4 ; Move to next layer height
G1 X20 Y20 ; Move to next position
G1 E20 ; Extrude filament
; Filament color change
G1 E9 ; Retract filament by 1 cm
G1 E8.25 ; Cut filament
G1 E8.25 ; Advance filament by 0.75 cm
; Layer 3 (with new filament color)
G1 Z0.6 ; Move to next layer height
G1 X30 Y30 ; Move to next position
G1 E28.25 ; Extrude new filament
; Continue printing
***
In this G-code:
Layers 1 and 2 represent the printing process before the filament color change.
Before the filament color change command (G1 E9), the filament is retracted by 1 cm (G1 E9), cut (G1 E8.25), and then advanced by 0.75 cm (G1 E8.25).
After the filament color change, the printing process continues with layer 3 using the new filament color.
You'll need to adjust the X, Y, and Z coordinates, as well as the extrusion amounts (E values), to suit your specific 3D printing project. Additionally, make sure to test the retraction and advancement distances to ensure proper filament handling during the color change process.
How you gonna cut on a MK4?
No idea!
Mine can be instructed to release the filament - maybe that's the equivalent of cutting the filament?
Palette 3 pro
The issue with that custom gcode is that its very filament dependent, which you mentioned. I was excited when I first saw it circling on reddit a while back and tried it for myself.....until the jams started...oh the jams lol. Silk filament is a no-go, as the creator said. But so is certain colors of regular pla, even BBL brand, silver BBL ABS jams, every brand of Galaxy PLA I tried jams, Sunlu Clay PLA jams, Sunlu Matte Light Blue jams, Eryone Fuscia PLA jams. Those are all I can remember. Like i said, it's great when it works. But if it's a filament that hasnt been tested with the gcode, you have to babysit it to make sure it doesnt jam.
That's funny, because with the current script I've printed tons of Silk with no problem. And I just finished a 2 day ABS print that worked so perfectly I never needed to bother with it.
I guess this new script is mightier than the one on Reddit.
@@3dpprofessorIt's the same script. It's been circulating on Reddit/fbook since the end of last year. I didn't try silks because the creator says not to. But Ive also had great results with ABS (I've not printed 2 days though) and dozens of other filament brands and types. Actually all the ABS I tried worked great except for BBL Silver ABS, and that's kind of what sucked imo. I could print 6,7,8,etc, filament types with no issues. Then bam it jams with filament brand/type number 12 over and over....and back to babysitting any unproven filament for hours. It just made me feel like I was taking a huge leap back by having to watch my printers again.
Anyway, great video on the topic. I haven't seen another creator cover this script so I'm glad it's getting traction on YT. Here's to more BL mods, and less purge waste.
I don't have one of these but one of my printers can do 2 colors and it's the same thing. It drops all the poop down a little shoot on the side and I end up with a big pile of waste on the table.
The printer knows when the next layer is coming I feel like an early cut would be the easiest way to reduce waste because the end of the last layer could be finished by whats in the nozzle. The only timing has to ensure the "transition" is the only waste..
Lemme just copy-paste a response I made to someone else who had the same idea:
I also had that same thought initially, but it's more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop in the right place to do the cut. But often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line. Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop? Either way you're adding a new seam, which is unsightly.
What if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors, small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets more complicated.
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time they can focus on other things.
this is how the mystery flavor in Dumb Dumbs was created.
Bambulabs could do some things to make this better as well. www.3dpprofessor.com/2024/03/09/is-zero-purge-on-the-bambulab-ams-3d-printers-possible/
One setting you should enable is "purge into infill" (I believe that is the name)
Yes, and that's on by default in the script I showed.
However, unless your infill is, like, 90% and your model is big, the effect is minimal.
Holy cow! You still have some useable 3D solutech? Man, I ran out of the awesome green color years ago.
Where in the video did I have solutech? I can't find any of it around.
@@3dpprofessorit’s behind you on the prusa printer in the video.
Sadly Solutech went under due to being misleading about “made in America” and the us government shut them down. Miss their colors. They had such great clear colors.
@@3dpprofessorif you wanting a similar set of colors (especially the green) Atomic filament is very close. Not completely (to the very picky eye), but looks very nice regardless. They also seem to make a good variety of clear PLA colors.
I use the green color for alien terrain and such. Gotta make it look bizarre.
If I select a filament change on my Tenlog TLD3Pro it slowly pushes it forward then quickly extracts the filament all the way back. I always wondered why they made it do that instead of just heating up and pulling out. Wondering does that purge reduction script do that also? Push a little, quickly pull back, cut and then push forward again then extract all the way.
The push-then-pull technique is a trick that many of us when we were loading and unloading manually learned to prevent clogs. The melty tip of the plastic tends to swell at the edge of it's heat creep. So if you just pull it back it's sometimes too big to get out of the little feed hole. So instead you push it in a little, insuring it gets a little melty, then pull it out quickly before it can swell. It's one of those best-practice things when unloading.
11:55 is sort of like how mosaic does it in the palette 3 in the heater cartridge thing.
The mosaic palate is a completely different paradigm entirely. They have to move the cut into the heater cartage to fuse it, so yes, they move it from the cut to where it needs to be, otherwise it wouldn't work.
I want to print some key chains for my sons school band. I want to print in a hard tpu. Any recommendations? I just want them to be durable and not break easily. I will be buying a new bamboo printer for this. Should this work and the newer less expensive bed slinger or the carbon?
Bambu prints TPU just fine.
As for TPU, I find Polymaker's polyflex works great for most applications. They only have 2 hardnesses, but most of your TPU boils down to how dense you print it, really.
@3dpprofessor Why not cut it before the color change to avoid retractions entirely? Once you have [cutter to nozzle distance]mm + [color 1 purge endlength minimum]mm remaining to the color change, cut. Retract color 1. Push with color 2 for [cutter to nozzle distance]mm, purge for [color 1 purge endlength minimum + color 2 purge startlength minimum]mm.
No retractions, and your amount of the first filament in the hot end to purge goes down to just a few micrograms.
This would require having your GCODE analyzed to find at what point to do the cut by measuring extrusion lengths... but subtraction is a concept that exists.
A lot of people are having a similar response this morning, so Imma copy-paste my response to them to save me some time.
I had that same thought initially, but it's more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop in the right place to do the cut. But often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line. Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop? Either way you're adding a new seam, which is unsightly.
What if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors, small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets more complicated.
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time they can focus on other things.
So you said you lose 2 cm every time the ASM cut filament then got purged, but is it possible to cut the filament and purge 1.5 cm on the print itself before you really need to change color ?
A lot of people are having a similar response this morning, so Imma copy-paste my response to them to save me some time.
I had that same thought initially, but it's more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop in the right place to do the cut. But often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line. Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop? Either way you're adding a new seam, which is unsightly.
What if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors, small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets more complicated.
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time they can focus on other things.
@@3dpprofessor Could add after the cut you can't retract filament so it's not viable at all because you gonna have oosing. The best " fix " will be a pellet extruder and shred the poop since it's not crazy huge and super strong. So yeah you got poop but if you can reprint the poop, it's not an issue. Talked a little bit on the guy who try to make a pellet extruder for commercial 3d printer, it divide the price of printing by 10.
Reminds me of an old saying...... waste not, want not!
Maybe this exist but it would be nice if there was a mode to use purge as infill.
There is. And it's on by default in the script I told you about.
But the whole point of infill is to be as minimal as possible, so the gains are minimal as well.
My primary problem with AMS is the time needed for filament switch. It takes about 1min30s for one change and if print has thousands of these... (no idea how long that is on "AMS Lite").
I presume you can lower the time drastically with the LITE, since the four different materials are sent to the printer in different tubes and only joined right above the hotend, rather than just a single tube going from AMS
Surprisingly, despite the fact that the AMS light isn't retracting as far as the AMS original does, layer changes still take about the same amount of time. Maybe a little less, but the majority of the time in the switch is in the purging. I don't know why it purges so slowly. Maybe that's more effective for cleaning out the nozzle.
you mentioned the transitioning sections, can you not reduce those zones?
edit: also I've seen hotend on ali express that has 4 filament going into it, i wonder if that could be of benefit?
There's not much you can do to reduce the amount of time it takes for one color to get out of the nozzle. They're a bit like when family visits. You can say "It's time to go" but it's gonna be another hour until they're actually driving off.
3:20 Nobody does that...and even if they did, there is a setting to print each part in series...so there would only be 1 color change per part...
Unfortunately, I've seen it. I work in a makerspace and when you make technology available to the public you see all kinds of things that you would think no one would ever do.
However, printing by part would be a solution to this, but the video was running long and wasn't really about that so I didn't mention it.
Another method would be to properly calculate how much more you need of that particular filament before swapping and then doing the swap early - so that the 'purge' is actually used in the part.
The end result would be the same, except you wouldn't need to retract and extrude.
The risk would be that if you don't calculate it properly you could get color mixing - but that's the risk with any of this...
The retraction idea is good - but I think the risk there is hot-end jams/issues - where as you wouldn't have that risk if you were to say swap from the first filament to the second one before the first one is done printing but not so far before it's done that you end up with the transition in your parts.
Downside to this would be that I don't think it would be a simple gcode modification for before/after the cut. You would need the slicer itself to calculate when to do the cut earlier.
A lot of people are having a similar response this morning, so Imma copy-paste my response to them to save me some time.
I had that same thought initially, but it's more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop in the right place to do the cut. But often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line. Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop? Either way you're adding a new seam, which is unsightly.
What if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors, small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets more complicated.
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time they can focus on other things.
The modified G-Code you used should reduce the waste dramatically. If that’s not the case you did not modify the flushing volumes correctly. With the modified G-Code a 0.35 is always fine and in most cases 0.25 is enough purge.
The video was running a bit long, so I couldn't address this. But one problem with the new script is it reduces the purge by a fixed amount, but we're adjusting by a percentage. Meaning sometimes you can reduce by 35% and see it work well, and sometimes it won't. I myself have seen with this reduce script that white to black can be reduced considerably, but black to white has to be reduced a lot less, and for some reason, black to yellow also can only be reduced by about 65% or you still see bleed.
The correct answer is for BambuLabs to adopt this script and recalculate the flushing volumes themselves to reduce them all by a fixed amount.
Don't forget you can print per object instead of per line
Yes. I had to skip mentioning that because the video was running a bit long, and that wasn't really the point of the video, but it is a good thing to know.
Can it purge to an object that's not as tall as the main print, but wide enough to absorb all the waste? (Nozzle would have to lower for each purge).
It doesn't currently do that, no. And there could be a complication if the print crashes into the movement system, but it's an interesting idea.
Is it possible to purge as an infill or a model that say is holding a weapon were the weapon is entirely made from purge material, if this don`t make sense its because I don`t own a 3D printer yet. 😐
You can designate any object to be a purge object. See my previous video on this subject (linked in the cards) for an example of this? ua-cam.com/video/AsokgzDYBBY/v-deo.html
Have you tried adding the command for feeding the filament to his script yet?
I have not, mostly because this one works, and I don't want to screw it up with my fumbling. That's why I reached out to the guy who published the script and they made a very interesting point. Maybe if you push still melty filament back *that* could be what causes it to mushroom head. So maybe it's better to leave it out for just a little longer while the filament changes.
It's a compelling arguement.
I will finally be getting a P1S here in the next few weeks and considering the AMS as well. Does anyone here really use it that much? I think I might wait on the ams for now.
I mean, I use it a ton, but I recognize I'm in the minority.
Will printing multiple of the same objects increase the waste or will it be able to do a single purge for multiple objects?
Printing multiple of the same object is a great way to spread your waste out because the amount of waste stays the same.
Or get a Prusa XL with 5 individual print heads instead of 4 colors with one head. I own neither so can't vouch on purge waste volume but would think the Prusa would beat the bamboo hands down.
I wish they were easier to use, though.
15:07 you say there's no bleed over into the white but in this clip you can very clearly see a ton of bleed over into the white. What's the deal with that?
I'm not sure what you're seeing. Looking at the physical blok it looks great.
Hello, that's very interesting. I don't have any Bamboo but it crossed my mind and it's precisely the mess that made me change my mind. However, I have a question about these blocks that you've printed with the "purges", I can't see what purpose they serve at all, in fact I think that's also waste, could you tell me or show me a video explaining what these blocks are for because at the moment it makes me think of a roundabout way of making waste that in the end amounts to the same thing as "poo"?
They're called "PrintABlok" and they're my answer to 3D printing's limitations when trying to print legos. You can find out more here: ua-cam.com/video/vvisOsZClLQ/v-deo.html
@3dpprofessor Great, thanks for the link and explanation, I'll check it out ;o)
Love that tie!
One of my favorites. It's has a tie on the tie!
Also, Veggie Tales.
@@3dpprofessor Oh that's just great! Now I'll be singing the silly songs in my head all day.
@@drkgumby if you like to talk to tomatoes...
Would be interesting to purge into infill, shouldn't be "hard" to calculate when there isn't enough internal infill and will purge as waste. On larger prints that might make a significant difference.
What i would like to see is a tool change that only changes the nozzle itself. Remove having to have multiple extruder motors and gears, etc. This will also make it far smaller and economical. I can already imagine it, fully functional.. someone send me a few grand to cover materials and living costs for the week or two it would take me to develop it np 😅
I mean, the Prusa XL is there if you want a tool changer that works... mostly.
The waste blocks, 100% infill? Thinking that prime could be hidden inside an object being printed maybe
Never 100% infill. 90% tops. Or you end up with overlap that can be problematic.
But, yeah, that prime tower should 100% be able to be hidden inside other objects. But I'm thinking automatically by the slicer. Just prime into the flush object's infill. Don't do it with the shells or you'll end up with a bad looking print, but infill, absolutely.
That prime block could be replaced with brass bristles
The point of the prime block is to put back pressure into the nozzle, so it needs something that will push against the filament coming out in the same way that a print does. I'm not sure brass bristles will satisfy that.
Why not print the purge to infill ?
That's default in the script I introduced.
What if they made the purge another model?
Again, this has a lot of complications because if you let people choose whatever model they want, they'll choose a model that doesn't have enough cross sectional area for the purge. Cube are nice and predictable.
honestly not sure why this wasn't done from the jump it's the "obvious" way to do it
9:55 isn’t it the other way around purge area bottom then transition then overkill. I suggest the diagram is right but the labels aren’t.
So you want to shorten the top black area…
I suppose it depends on which side of the straightened waste you're holding. But, technically, if you look at it as it comes out of the nozzle, you're probably right.
what about flush to infill?
That's a thing, yes. But unless you have a big model with 90% infill, the effect is goign to be minimal.
Why dont they use the internal structure as a purging space? no one is going to se it. it seems like the perfect space to lay what would be waste material?
You can purge to infill. In fact that's the default in the script I linked.
No reason to "push back" with the same filament because the next filament will do just that.
The idea is to push it back right away before the melted end cools. If you wait till the filament rethreads before the push back maybe the melt has stuck to the cold block and you have a jam. How big a concern this is in reality is currently unknown.
I've been using the script that doesn't push back a lot, and it works fine. But there may be some material like PETG that cools quickly and gets sticky.
2:03 that first hidden one looks oddly similar to Big B 🤔
Good spot. Try turning the others upside down to see what I used to build them. I wanted the silhouettes to be representative of potential future monsters, but not to promise specific ones. I want people's imaginations to run wild on this one.
@@3dpprofessor I never miss my buddy, he's been overlooked far too long for that..
what about purge infill ?
That's a thing, yes. But unless you have a big model with 90% infill, the effect is going to be minimal. The whole point of infill is to be as minimal as possible.
is it smart about it? in the sense that it waits until it has purged enough for that layer and does the end in the infill first?@@3dpprofessor
@@yagoa Honestly, I'm not sure which it does first or last. For the small prints I do, it hardly does any infill at all.
I was thinking of using the purge inside the object as infill. This doesn't have to be 100% correct color.
Yes, purge to infill is on by default in the script I introduce in this video.
However, the whole point of infill is to put as *little* material as possible on the inside, meaning it's impact on purge is going to be minimal.
3:30 literally noone does this, print by model rather than by layer ensures that each model prints to completion and then does a single purge to the new colour before starting the next model. There's more than enough genuine areas to find where someone can save filament without manufacturing fake ones.
I wish that were true, but I've actually seen it. I work in a makerspace and when this tech was made available to the public, that's literally the fist thing a patron tried doing.
Why pull the filament up to cut it, why not just pre cut the filament, finish the layer, then retract the pre cut filament and change to the next color?
That was my initial thought, to. But it's more complex than it seems at first.
First of all you have to stop in the right place to do the cut. But often GCode has long lines be a single command, and what if the optimal place for a cut is in the middle of a long line. Do you stop before doing the line? Do you try to calculate where in the middle of the line to stop? Either way you're adding a new seam, which is unsightly.
What if you're adding only small amounts of several different colors, small enough that you actually need to cut for that color, 2 or 3 colors before the last one gets added? That's a lot to coordinate. And you'll need to be sure you haven't missed anything, like the effect of travel moves, or your color could start changing too soon, or too late.
And since every color combination needs a different amount of purge, it gets more complicated.
Not saying it can't be done. Put enough time and effort into it and anything's possible. But if there's a more simple solution, that's more time they can focus on other things.
The simple solution to make a filament machine that is affordable, that hooks up to the poop chute and it turns it into filament. If people could just recycle their filament, this would not be an issue at all, and even something to look forward to after prints since you could just turn it all back into filament. Filament machines are too expensive, and the affordable ones are not a plug and play system which makes it really troublesome to use for the average user. If Bambu could make one that communicates with the printer, you could organize colors, filament types, and even mix colors depending on how you set it up.
100% recycled material isn't always a good idea. The new material, having been heated and cooled and heated again, loses some of it's material strength. Most recycled material is only some recycled material, and some virgin material. So even if we're recycling the waste, we'd need raw virgin material to add to it.
@@3dpprofessor Recycled material is better than throwing it in the trash. If there was an affordable and reliable filament machine, everyone would have one, and everyone would use it regardless of the quality of the material. 90% of my prints end up in the trash during prototyping, so I could care less about the slight quality difference as long as I can print test parts for development.
@@user-lx9jm1wo3h There are a lot of people who have been working on it for a long time.
@@3dpprofessor exactly. That is why a company like Bambulab should try to tackle it and make a good product that is affordable.
I have some cash set aside just so i can buy the Carbon XL when they release it
How much you setting aside? Because the larger a printer gets, the price goes up way faster than you'd expect. Honestly, if the Carbon XL ends up being less than $6k, I'd be surprised.
"Printer blocks?" Can we all pause for just a moment to acknowledge that these are indeed 100% waste as well? They're just not strings in a bucket.
PrintABlok. ua-cam.com/video/vvisOsZClLQ/v-deo.html
And, yes, that's the point of a purge object. That the waste is redirected to something that's not strings in a bucket.
@3dBut if they are consistent size objects only? Dozens of rectangular bocks are waste, to mepprofessor
@@NickBR57 they're a building block. You can build things with them.
But if you want, there are also tons of shaped PrintABloks you can choose.
It's like Lego. It's designed to be something simple that can be printed that can then be used for something as opposed to just being thrown away.
@@3dpprofessor Yes, I'm sure, but I'm no longer three years old so for me, no different than waste poop.
Just reduce your vertical resolution to 50% and you reduce the waste the same amount.You’re welcome.
So printing with thicker layers means less layer changes. Yes, that's true, but I really, really want thinner layers for Cthulhu and Friends.
How about using purge as infill?
That's one of the defaults in the new script, I think.
But generally, unless you crank up the infill, you're not dropping that much material per layer. It helps, but not a considerable amount.
Ahhh ok thanks
VeggieTales!
Broccoli, celery, gotta be...
Not a fan of the Bambu for figures and toys. You get much better results with resin and hand painting.
"Better" is subjective in his case, but I think I've got a work flow that will produce impressive results without a lot of work. Video coming soon.
BambuLab is closed system, therefore no contribution was made here.
In addition they are actively trying to patent open source inventions. So..... the premise is false from the beginning,
Which open source tech are they trying to patent, now? I haven't heard this.
@@3dpprofessor from "Fabbaloo reports on Prusa-Bambu Lab fight over open source licenses"
"The research paper, authored among others by Open Source guru Joshua Pearce, on the other hand, seems to confirm that the systems patented by Bambu Lab [Patent no. CN114043726A (China): “Method and apparatus for 3D printing, storage medium, and program product”, filed on 11 November 2021, current status-pending; Patent no. CN114474738A (China): “A mechanism and 3D printing system that reloads for 3D printer” filed on 17 January 2022, current status-pending, and Patent no. CN216230793U: “Waste material wiping nozzle mechanism for 3D printer and 3D printer” filed 11 November 2021, granted 8 April 2022] do not show significant improvements compared to the original open source patents."
@@3dpprofessor look for "Fabbaloo reports on Prusa-Bambu Lab fight over open source licenses"