@@WatchWesWork CNC would be a better way to make those parts but,doing it manually makes you think and,solve the problem.Like self driving cars,CNC is taking away some of the skills.Although,learning how to use CAD is a whole new skill set. I do manual and CNC. I like manual machines for one off pieces.
Just love your channel- so interesting when you explain your intentions and why, and like this one, really explain why you had to take a more indirect solution to solve your problem, to a novice machinists this is so interesting and fun to watch! You do such beautiful work. Thanks
That was an inventive way to achieve the desired outcome. Especially using a super indexer. Hats off on your work around. Given the types if induction you’re trying to achieve with the work you’re doing. You might want to look at induction hardening. It’s much faster & more controllable. ie: you can harden say 20 to 60 thou deep without hardening the core material. This gives you both hardness & flex with less chance of distortion. Just an idea to investigate.
You are one of the best machinists on UA-cam. You have great instincts. When I first saw your channel you only had a few hundred subscribers. It's great to watch your success. You deserve it & thank you for the great content. I learn so much from you. When the lathe is cutting perfectly, it hisses. Your lathe hisses. Bad-ass!
The sound of the tempered part against the chuck jaws when you mounted it, and the sparks, suggested to me that it was harder than RC30. The Leeb type hardness tester you are using, measures the amount of energy absorbed from the mass dropped on it, by recording the height, actually the duration, of the bounce. Softer material will absorb more energy and the bounce will be less than harder material, which absorbs less energy. Accurate measurement depends on the mass of the sample, so small samples should be clamped securely to a large mass, with no air gap underneath, or clamped in, say, a large vice. In the case here, the samples were measured while placed on an uneven surface, so energy from the dropped mass may not be properly returned, hence it could be indicating much softer than it actually is, and would account for the large variation in the readings. Trust this is helpful.
Yeah true. Most of the hardness readings I took where with part clamped off camera. I just showed them on bench because it was easy. But yeah if anything showing the small parts on the bench gave us more of a relative measurement between old and new parts.
Loved the trick for clocking the part. Nice work! You may also be able to 3d print your own plates for that super spacer with as many notches as needed for the job.
Yes, what a brilliant idea. I need to start thinking better like that when it comes to 3-D printing solving my issues. In this case, I don’t think they would’ve worked. I was looking at the Super spacer manual and it looks like I would’ve needed a 36 plate. Or maybe a 48 plate. They have those plates on the bigger units mostly because of clearance. (24”) When you’re adding that many notches to the disc based on the size of the engagement paw I don’t know that there’s actual space for 48 individual or 36 individual spots on the smaller 8 inch units.
The only disadvantage of fewer cogs is degrees before engagement but to my estimation that will barely be noticeable. However with fewer cogs the strength and wear resistance should be increased. I could be wrong, happens a lot to me. 🤔🤷🏻♂️😅
10:2010:26 You should look into a Porto trek,it 10:34 will do everything you need on a milling machine KMX,USED,you can retrofit on Bridgeport, once you use it,will save time
I was a little thrown for a loop for the numbers you were getting on the first part after the temper. I was always under the impression that a deviation of less than 10% in hardness from different points should be expected for parts of a uniform shape and thickness. Any thoughts why such a large discrepancy (25 then 34) might occur? The fact that those numbers were taken directly across the part from one another and the way they were subjected to tempering didn’t escape me but I didn’t think such a large difference had been observed before the annealing so accuracy tolerance of the measurement device?
Good work, nice clocking solution! I've shattered knife blanks before at around 60 HRC. As impressive as it is depressive depending on the amount of effort you have in them.
Loved the video but I'd really like to see the other side made too. Yes I know it's mostly repetitive but in this case it was slightly different. And I realize that you want to keep the video shorter. Still I get disappointed when large sections are "done off camera" as we the viewers tend to feel that we are going along with you on the journey of making the parts. When too much is done off camera that takes the journey and throws it away. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope that you understand.) 🙏
Yeah, I totally get it. It’s a balance at the end of the day. I try ti do what Most people will prefer and most people prefer not to watch repetitive stuff if possible. Plus these videos are long enough lol.
Sharp corners and abrupt changes in cross section can result in cracking after/during heat treat. I have tried packing small drillings that were cracking with steel wool. Mixed results. Changed to a tool steel that didn't require a severe quench. Material was more expensive. Interesting about the offset dogs. Trying to understand the theory behind the design.
Great video! I love watching your stuff, and learn a lot of new things in the process. Ignore all of the haters commenting on your speaking style!! I am curious what your thoughts are about how these modififed parts will perform with fewer teeth than the originals. I am not 100% sure how they work to engage each other, but I can sort of visualize the fewer teeth taking more time to engage, as they will have to rotate further. Will this lead to "clunking", or a harder engagement?
Yeah, that was a few months ago. The teeth work functionally fine but yeah they do take a little bit longer to engage. So when you’re feeding the quill out because there’s a worm gear, the rotation is very minimal on the hand wheel so it’s gonna take more degrees of rotation for the clutches to fall into place. if for some reason when I’m using the machine and annoys me, I have the spares I can just make different ones with more teeth so far it seems fine but the jury is still out.
Your bouncing ball hardness tester should be used on a polished area of the material to be tested. Looking at the video you seem to be testing an area that is not polished but oxidized. This will give a lower reading than expected.
Do you have a pottery supply. They sell various stands for the kiln with tiny contactpoints that mighr allow a more even heating as setting them directly on the fire bricks might be like a heat sink in some areas
Hitting 60rc with 4140 is going to be hard even with Superquench, with oil you don't have a chance of breaking 45. I used to make swaging dies with 4140 and could hit high 50's with Superquench with the cost of having 1 in 6 crack.
I don't agree. I routinely hit the mid to high 50's HRC with an oil quench. Not a problem. His heat treat procedure was good. I don't believe the janky hardness tester. A proper diamond indenter will tell the story. This comes from a degrees metallurgist and machinist.
Your lower hardness readings for the parts (40ish) is die to the way you are using the tester. IO have the exact same tester and it only really works on very thick material (like the raw stock). You tested on a piece of wood and maybe testing on the mill table or surface plate will give a b=more accurate reading
I've designed similar things like these and had the teeth induction harden with a high frequency of around 35-45K, polymer water quench. They would check around 45-50HRC. Very little if any warpage. ION Nitriding would work, too.
Okay, this comes from a metallurgist and machinist. Your heat treat approach and procedure looked pretty good. I think the problem is your hardness tester. I would personally not trust it for a second and throw it away. Look at used equipment sources and buy a proper diamond indenter Rockwell tester. What was your starting material? I must have missed that.
Good material choice. Remember you will also get a decarb layer after heat treating in an air furnace. Remove this first before testing hardness with a proper diamond indenter.
Hey man love watching your channel is there anyway you could give a crash course in using fusion I have a mill and lathe at home and love using them just not real good with fusion thanks keep on with the videos
I hate dividing heads as well but I love my rotery table. Just a handcrank and a dial and I can get every angle I want. Even mill radiai. I think you have way to little clearence in the teeth. Engaging it will be a real pain. But nothing an anglegrinder cant fix after disasembly ;)
Since the straight cut is only for roughing, I think the angle wouldn't need to be perfect for that. I'd propably make all 12 straight cuts first, with a bit of stock left for both sides, then loosen the part and eyeball the angle. I couldn't make out if your plate can do a 24 pattern, but then you could go every even step for one side of the dogs and every odd number for the other sides. But for a 12 pattern having a reference for relocation is definitely a good way to do it.
Would it not be possible to bolt the piece to a larger or thicker plate and then harden them to stop the warping? If they are bolted down and stress relieved prior to hardening and tempering they would be held in place by the piece of plate and prevent warping. Is this correct or am I not seeing something?
@ understand your concern, thanks for the reply. P.S I am really enjoying your rebuild of the machine series especially the detail of what and why you are doing a certain thing. It really helps us beginners learn why you are doing something a certain way. Please don't stop making these series. I know it takes a lot of your time but it is appreciated
I’m definitely not going to change how I speak over the course of several episodes. Plus the episode you seen was filmed several months ago. It is definitely near impossible to read someone’s comment and completely change how you speak and then in the next episode everything is resolved. You’d be better off changing your expectation. Sorry I can’t make you happier.
I'm thinking that once you clocked the part by 7 1/2 degrees you could have continued across the ring (like on your straight cut pass) and cut the dog on the opposite side of the ring and it would have cut the back face. That would avoid the second clocking operation and guarantee the same angle on both the front and back faces without introducing any potential error from a second clocking operation.
It's one of those things that I could picture in my head and my math background as an engineer told me it should be right, but I still wouldn't trust myself until I could confirm it in Fusion 360! The parts came out absolutely beautiful and I'm really enjoying this restoration and repair series.
Assuming the teeth are cut from center of the part they should act like a slices of pizza, which means they should always be an angled on the sides. Otherwise they wouldn't engage correctly. With that said I think You should be able to mill everything just using dial on the rotating chuck using some math. Anyway, great job especially that it's not cnc!
Unfortunately, I cannot properly follow which axis you shift the disk to achieve the 7.5 degrees. Perhaps you could have visualized the Fusion360 drawing better with an arrow drawn on it showing how you could achieve this. But respect for the results achieved. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Don't mean to interject, but I have a 12" rotary table & did the same as you did with pie shaped cutouts in 2 passes each tooth. My table has degrees, minutes & seconds. Am I missing something or am I just dumb? My dogs came out perfect . I even made 7* slanted faces once so it would lock in under pressure. Self taught machinist so don't take me as an authority next to you guys.
I have a rotary table too. I could have done that. a super spacer is different than a rotary table because it has index plates. Rotary tables can work for the same thing but they don’t index on plates so there can be error since your relying on lining up by eye. Also having an indexing plate increases speed and reduces errors but you are limited to the plates notches for your locked positions. Think of a super spacer as a faster diving head with less options but easier to use and more compact. Rotary tables can be used similarly but are more designed for cutting radiuses and rotating parts to odd angles but by hand with no stops.
Thanks. yeah pre hard is good. But its harness is limited. Also it’s more expensive. In retrospect it could have worked fine but if I wanted it harder I would be limited to standard hardness of prehard which is like 32-36 Rockwell
I cry and die a little inside every time i see you cutting steel on the lathe like you're doing without any coolant. You must burn up a *lot* of cutters.
@@FullSendPrecision I guess that depends on what kind of coolant you're using. I have used a light oil-based lubricant/coolant on my mill and my bandsaw for years and haven't had those issues. On the other hand, I do fairly routinely take down the parts that get the coolant on them and clean out the debris and whatnot so that stuff doesn't just sit there forever either.
Some carbide insert manufacturers recommend dry cutting because some inserts are very sensitive to thermal shock and basically fall apart on you. I make moulds for a living and we have such inserts you run with coolant they break on you without warning even though you have good and consistent coolant flow, logically makes no sense but it is what it is lol. (water based coolant). And its not that deep, we can rough out like a 800x600mm mould with rotating them once after roughing for like 3 hours constantly. (you have to shovel out the chips because there are too many).
The parts turned out great! I'm gonna go hug my CNC mill...
Wes… love your channel man. Us Illinois people need to stick together
i was about to have a threesome with my CNC Mill and Lathe
@@WatchWesWork CNC would be a better way to make those parts but,doing it manually makes you think and,solve the problem.Like self driving cars,CNC is taking away some of the skills.Although,learning how to use CAD is a whole new skill set. I do manual and CNC. I like manual machines for one off pieces.
@@jamesdavis8021 Ive never heard of anyone learning CAD to run a CNC. I dont believe you have been near a CNC in your life.
hello, I am engaged in CNC machining in China, May I ask you mean by "hug" and the term "guy" always mentioned in the video.
Also I was impressed by how little warpage resulted from the hardening. Great idea to make super washers and great work! 💯 Very talented.) 👏👏
Appreciate that! The washers really helped.
Just love your channel- so interesting when you explain your intentions and why, and like this one, really explain why you had to take a more indirect solution to solve your problem, to a novice machinists this is so interesting and fun to watch! You do such beautiful work. Thanks
Appreciate the kind words!
That was an inventive way to achieve the desired outcome. Especially using a super indexer. Hats off on your work around.
Given the types if induction you’re trying to achieve with the work you’re doing. You might want to look at induction hardening. It’s much faster & more controllable.
ie: you can harden say 20 to 60 thou deep without hardening the core material. This gives you both hardness & flex with less chance of distortion. Just an idea to investigate.
Great close up filming, both turning and milling
loved the video and it was super smart to use that pin as a way to locate the part while u dialed in the sspacer.
Yep, simple but effective!
You are one of the best machinists on UA-cam. You have great instincts. When I first saw your channel you only had a few hundred subscribers. It's great to watch your success. You deserve it & thank you for the great content. I learn so much from you. When the lathe is cutting perfectly, it hisses. Your lathe hisses. Bad-ass!
Appreciate the kind words!
Nice job Kyle. A novel approach to machining the angles on the dogs which worked really well. I'm looking forward to the next one!
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome parts . Very interesting process of making them .
Glad you liked it!
The sound of the tempered part against the chuck jaws when you mounted it, and the sparks, suggested to me that it was harder than RC30. The Leeb type hardness tester you are using, measures the amount of energy absorbed from the mass dropped on it, by recording the height, actually the duration, of the bounce. Softer material will absorb more energy and the bounce will be less than harder material, which absorbs less energy. Accurate measurement depends on the mass of the sample, so small samples should be clamped securely to a large mass, with no air gap underneath, or clamped in, say, a large vice. In the case here, the samples were measured while placed on an uneven surface, so energy from the dropped mass may not be properly returned, hence it could be indicating much softer than it actually is, and would account for the large variation in the readings. Trust this is helpful.
(PhD in Metallurgy here.) THIS COMMENT IS CORRECT. The accuracy Of the hardness testing method he is inversely related to the mass of the part.
Yeah true. Most of the hardness readings I took where with part clamped off camera. I just showed them on bench because it was easy. But yeah if anything showing the small parts on the bench gave us more of a relative measurement between old and new parts.
Loved the trick for clocking the part. Nice work! You may also be able to 3d print your own plates for that super spacer with as many notches as needed for the job.
Yes, what a brilliant idea. I need to start thinking better like that when it comes to 3-D printing solving my issues. In this case, I don’t think they would’ve worked. I was looking at the Super spacer manual and it looks like I would’ve needed a 36 plate. Or maybe a 48 plate. They have those plates on the bigger units mostly because of clearance. (24”) When you’re adding that many notches to the disc based on the size of the engagement paw I don’t know that there’s actual space for 48 individual or 36 individual spots on the smaller 8 inch units.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair yeh, that make sense. those slots are huge
The only disadvantage of fewer cogs is degrees before engagement but to my estimation that will barely be noticeable. However with fewer cogs the strength and wear resistance should be increased. I could be wrong, happens a lot to me. 🤔🤷🏻♂️😅
Looking good Kyle.
Thank you
That was a great trick you did on the Super Space. Another job well done.
Appreciate it!
Agreed ! Thanks.
Looks to me like the parts themselves were not the problem material, it was more like the fasteners were the real problem. Great series . Nice work .
Yeah true
If I'm being honest, I'm not going to lie, I'm just being frank ... a lot of concern about honesty on this channel :)
lol yeah this guy needs to lie a bit more lol
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Appreciate it
10:20 10:26 You should look into a Porto trek,it 10:34 will do everything you need on a milling machine KMX,USED,you can retrofit on Bridgeport, once you use it,will save time
Yeah they are great machines
Great video, parts are turning out fantastic.
Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely
I really like the additional views/angles you've used on this video. Amazing stuff as always, Kyle!
Appreciate you noticing, I try to make them more engaging.
Very nice work.saw you on Topper and started watching...awsome.
Thanks, I appreciate it
I was a little thrown for a loop for the numbers you were getting on the first part after the temper. I was always under the impression that a deviation of less than 10% in hardness from different points should be expected for parts of a uniform shape and thickness.
Any thoughts why such a large discrepancy (25 then 34) might occur? The fact that those numbers were taken directly across the part from one another and the way they were subjected to tempering didn’t escape me but I didn’t think such a large difference had been observed before the annealing so accuracy tolerance of the measurement device?
I should have showed me clamping the part and doing the test. Small parts can be inconsistent when tested just laying about.
Nice work! Compliments on the video shots and editing too.
Glad you enjoyed it.
9:20 is a pre drill necessary for a lathe that big?
Awesome video really enjoy watching your craftmanship
I appreciate it.
Great video, learning a lot from you
Glad to hear it!
I use 4140 pre heat treat for stuff like that. No need to stress about heat treating and still very machinable.
Yeah true you can use it as is
Cool trick on calculating the 7-1/2 degree rotation! Brilliant!
Yeah worked great. Hey Greg
Good work, nice clocking solution! I've shattered knife blanks before at around 60 HRC. As impressive as it is depressive depending on the amount of effort you have in them.
Yes indeed 60 is pretty hard
And then there were all those kids in the mathematics classes in schools asking, "When am I ever going to need to use trigonometry?"
Yep agreed
But fusion did the trig
@@southmaplegarage Haa hhaaa, probably, but you still need to know how it works.
Very well done 👏
Thanks for watching!
I am glad to see you are using spacers on the lathe chuck.A lot of people trust the flats on the chuck jaws. I know better and,so do you.
Yeah it’s a nice mod to do to the chuck to accept those.
Can’t wait to see the big boy up and running 🙌
Me too.
So great to see you on this Saturday November 2nd…pb
Appreciate the support Paul!
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair you amaze me more and more with every video you produce…cheers, Paul
Another great learning experience
Appreciate it
Loved the video but I'd really like to see the other side made too. Yes I know it's mostly repetitive but in this case it was slightly different. And I realize that you want to keep the video shorter. Still I get disappointed when large sections are "done off camera" as we the viewers tend to feel that we are going along with you on the journey of making the parts. When too much is done off camera that takes the journey and throws it away. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope that you understand.) 🙏
Yeah, I totally get it. It’s a balance at the end of the day. I try ti do what Most people will prefer and most people prefer not to watch repetitive stuff if possible. Plus these videos are long enough lol.
Great video....totally stealing the rotation trick. I am really excited to see your dentistry in the next one....lots of teeth!
Yes indeed lots of teeth
Nice work!
Appreciate it
Very interesting video to watch. Thanks.
Appreciate the support!
parabêns
Yeah
I enjoyed this video.
Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Good job Kyle
Thank you
Very clever solution. Thanks!
Appreciate it
Sharp corners and abrupt changes in cross section can result in cracking after/during heat treat. I have tried packing small drillings that were cracking with steel wool. Mixed results. Changed to a tool steel that didn't require a severe quench. Material was more expensive. Interesting about the offset dogs. Trying to understand the theory behind the design.
@@Paul-jb7br A-2 might be a better choice.
Yeah good points
looks very good!!
Yeah, pretty pleased with how they turned out.
Great effort Kyle…love your work….( dunno about machine colour palette)…
Lol yeah to each is own I guess
Great video! I love watching your stuff, and learn a lot of new things in the process. Ignore all of the haters commenting on your speaking style!! I am curious what your thoughts are about how these modififed parts will perform with fewer teeth than the originals. I am not 100% sure how they work to engage each other, but I can sort of visualize the fewer teeth taking more time to engage, as they will have to rotate further. Will this lead to "clunking", or a harder engagement?
Yeah, that was a few months ago. The teeth work functionally fine but yeah they do take a little bit longer to engage. So when you’re feeding the quill out because there’s a worm gear, the rotation is very minimal on the hand wheel so it’s gonna take more degrees of rotation for the clutches to fall into place. if for some reason when I’m using the machine and annoys me, I have the spares I can just make different ones with more teeth so far it seems fine but the jury is still out.
Rip those chuck jaws you milled through multiple times on the indexer.
Soft jaws
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Really? they looked original. Guess enough coolant and grime will make anything look original.
Nice work
I appreciate it
what is you ring testing machine name please sir
Leeb hardness tester (knock off)
Well done, saw ya at Josh's channel
Yes indeed
Your bouncing ball hardness tester should be used on a polished area of the material to be tested. Looking at the video you seem to be testing an area that is not polished but oxidized. This will give a lower reading than expected.
Yes, you’re correct. That hardness tester is kind of iffy at best and how do you use It makes a big difference.
Do you have a pottery supply. They sell various stands for the kiln with tiny contactpoints that mighr allow a more even heating as setting them directly on the fire bricks might be like a heat sink in some areas
Yeah good point
@@waynep343 I was thinking the same thing.
Hitting 60rc with 4140 is going to be hard even with Superquench, with oil you don't have a chance of breaking 45. I used to make swaging dies with 4140 and could hit high 50's with Superquench with the cost of having 1 in 6 crack.
That’s good to know thanks
I don't agree. I routinely hit the mid to high 50's HRC with an oil quench. Not a problem. His heat treat procedure was good. I don't believe the janky hardness tester. A proper diamond indenter will tell the story. This comes from a degrees metallurgist and machinist.
Your lower hardness readings for the parts (40ish) is die to the way you are using the tester. IO have the exact same tester and it only really works on very thick material (like the raw stock). You tested on a piece of wood and maybe testing on the mill table or surface plate will give a b=more accurate reading
Yeah your right the tester is iffy at best on small parts
I've designed similar things like these and had the teeth induction harden with a high frequency of around 35-45K, polymer water quench. They would check around 45-50HRC. Very little if any warpage. ION Nitriding would work, too.
That’s a good idea!
Okay, this comes from a metallurgist and machinist. Your heat treat approach and procedure looked pretty good. I think the problem is your hardness tester. I would personally not trust it for a second and throw it away. Look at used equipment sources and buy a proper diamond indenter Rockwell tester.
What was your starting material? I must have missed that.
4140
4140 annealed
Good material choice. Remember you will also get a decarb layer after heat treating in an air furnace. Remove this first before testing hardness with a proper diamond indenter.
Hey man love watching your channel is there anyway you could give a crash course in using fusion I have a mill and lathe at home and love using them just not real good with fusion thanks keep on with the videos
I wish I am still learning my self maybe down the line
I hate dividing heads as well but I love my rotery table. Just a handcrank and a dial and I can get every angle I want. Even mill radiai.
I think you have way to little clearence in the teeth. Engaging it will be a real pain. But nothing an anglegrinder cant fix after disasembly ;)
Yeah maybe you are correct
If you are ready , the Lucas HBO is better than new. Greetings from Germany.
Thanks appreciate it
Need to do a shop tour.
I will I do
Since the straight cut is only for roughing, I think the angle wouldn't need to be perfect for that. I'd propably make all 12 straight cuts first, with a bit of stock left for both sides, then loosen the part and eyeball the angle. I couldn't make out if your plate can do a 24 pattern, but then you could go every even step for one side of the dogs and every odd number for the other sides. But for a 12 pattern having a reference for relocation is definitely a good way to do it.
Yeah good points
Would it not be possible to bolt the piece to a larger or thicker plate and then harden them to stop the warping? If they are bolted down and stress relieved prior to hardening and tempering they would be held in place by the piece of plate and prevent warping. Is this correct or am I not seeing something?
Yeah that may work. My main concern was cracking because of sharp corners of teeth
@ understand your concern, thanks for the reply. P.S I am really enjoying your rebuild of the machine series especially the detail of what and why you are doing a certain thing. It really helps us beginners learn why you are doing something a certain way. Please don't stop making these series. I know it takes a lot of your time but it is appreciated
MUCH better but that cadence is still part of your speaking style.Josh Topper is a very good speaker.
I’m definitely not going to change how I speak over the course of several episodes. Plus the episode you seen was filmed several months ago. It is definitely near impossible to read someone’s comment and completely change how you speak and then in the next episode everything is resolved. You’d be better off changing your expectation. Sorry I can’t make you happier.
WOW
@VanoverMachineAndRepair I'm plenty happy with your content. You're a very gifted machinist.
I'm thinking that once you clocked the part by 7 1/2 degrees you could have continued across the ring (like on your straight cut pass) and cut the dog on the opposite side of the ring and it would have cut the back face. That would avoid the second clocking operation and guarantee the same angle on both the front and back faces without introducing any potential error from a second clocking operation.
Yeah I was wondering that as well but for some reason I didn’t do it that way
It's one of those things that I could picture in my head and my math background as an engineer told me it should be right, but I still wouldn't trust myself until I could confirm it in Fusion 360! The parts came out absolutely beautiful and I'm really enjoying this restoration and repair series.
I broke a chuck jaw part of once. It was a grizzly lathe so no surprise
Ahh makes sense
What was the final hardness after machining?
28
Should there not be a little chamfer on the top of each of the dog teeth to help them engage?
Factory was straight but I am with ya
Assuming the teeth are cut from center of the part they should act like a slices of pizza, which means they should always be an angled on the sides. Otherwise they wouldn't engage correctly. With that said I think You should be able to mill everything just using dial on the rotating chuck using some math. Anyway, great job especially that it's not cnc!
Yeah good points
Sweet!
Thank you
The dogs would probably be a good candidate for plasma nitriding, but that's not something you can do with just an oven.
Yeah I’m that would be good
Unfortunately, I cannot properly follow which axis you shift the disk to achieve the 7.5 degrees. Perhaps you could have visualized the Fusion360 drawing better with an arrow drawn on it showing how you could achieve this. But respect for the results achieved. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thanks i appreciate it
Don't mean to interject, but I have a 12" rotary table & did the same as you did with pie shaped cutouts in 2 passes each tooth. My table has degrees, minutes & seconds. Am I missing something or am I just dumb? My dogs came out perfect . I even made 7* slanted faces once so it would lock in under pressure. Self taught machinist so don't take me as an authority next to you guys.
I have a rotary table too. I could have done that. a super spacer is different than a rotary table because it has index plates. Rotary tables can work for the same thing but they don’t index on plates so there can be error since your relying on lining up by eye. Also having an indexing plate increases speed and reduces errors but you are limited to the plates notches for your locked positions. Think of a super spacer as a faster diving head with less options but easier to use and more compact. Rotary tables can be used similarly but are more designed for cutting radiuses and rotating parts to odd angles but by hand with no stops.
I don't know where you buy your pliers but they look like tongs to me.
Tongs yep
Why not just use 4140 Pre Hard (typically between 26-32 R) and skip the heat treating?
im thinking its because he is the type that wants to learn and master every process. this young man is incredible
Thanks. yeah pre hard is good. But its harness is limited. Also it’s more expensive. In retrospect it could have worked fine but if I wanted it harder I would be limited to standard hardness of prehard which is like 32-36 Rockwell
I cry and die a little inside every time i see you cutting steel on the lathe like you're doing without any coolant. You must burn up a *lot* of cutters.
Eh. Carbide is tough. Coolant ruins everything.
@ how exactly does coolant ruin everything?
@ it gets into all the places you can’t see and gums up and rusts.
@@FullSendPrecision I guess that depends on what kind of coolant you're using. I have used a light oil-based lubricant/coolant on my mill and my bandsaw for years and haven't had those issues. On the other hand, I do fairly routinely take down the parts that get the coolant on them and clean out the debris and whatnot so that stuff doesn't just sit there forever either.
Some carbide insert manufacturers recommend dry cutting because some inserts are very sensitive to thermal shock and basically fall apart on you. I make moulds for a living and we have such inserts you run with coolant they break on you without warning even though you have good and consistent coolant flow, logically makes no sense but it is what it is lol. (water based coolant). And its not that deep, we can rough out like a 800x600mm mould with rotating them once after roughing for like 3 hours constantly. (you have to shovel out the chips because there are too many).
A CNC mill would make this easier
True
Sixth
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you need better lighting.
Indeed
I do this part in less than an hour including the CAM, lol
Congrats
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