CLIMBING DIARY #3 | The Most Magnificent Wall of Oltrefinale
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2024
- As the pandemic restrictions in Liguria get tighter, we seek refuge high up the valley of Val Pennavaire. Here, just across the border to Piedmont, lies the remote village of Alto and one of the climbing crown jewels of the area: the «Red Up» crag. This early in the year, the wall is still seeping water, drenching some of its many tufas. Despite the less than ideal conditions, this wall is absolutely amazing to climb. The grades are pretty legit, and I get some good airtime...
▼ VIDEO CHAPTERS ▼
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0:00 Intro
1:12 Val Pennavaire / Oltrefinale
1:53 Bob, 7b
3:22 Red Up Crag
4:17 Sostegno Volante, 7c
7:05 Balestra, 7b
8:37 Ruoto a Raggi, 6b
▼ TAGS ▼
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#rockclimbing #arrampicare #escalade #klettern #climbing #escalar #vanlife #liguria #piemonte #italy #italia #italien #oltrefinale #valpennavaire - Спорт
Awesome video man, the place looks incredible! Finally some beautiful footage of routes below 8th grade, not so easy to find on YT. Good luck with your project!
nice to see routes that are within normal people skillsets. Thanks
Man the production of this is great!
Coś niesamowitego. Kawał skały i powietrza pod nogami...
Nice climbing and nice video! I have heard that some sectors are closed for climbers because of birds. Can you confirm it? I'm asking because we are going there in one week 🤩
Thanks! Yes, unfortunately, almost all north-facing walls in the valley are currently closed because of issues over bird conservation. Apparently, the association is trying to resolve the situation and it seems a bit ridiculous and undifferentiated to me, but it is what it is at the moment :-/
The following crags are forbidden to climb at the time of writing: Emisfero, Segreto, Erboristeria, Cineplex, Ciusa, Reunion, Famiglia.
This is a bit of a problem for the warm season. Here are some options in the shade that are still open: CPR (shady all day), Dhome (shady from noon), Guggenheim (shady from about 1pm), Terminal (partly shady from 2pm), Caffetteria (shady all day), Astronave (shady from 2pm), Camosci (shady until 2pm). Most of these are new sectors and you will have to ask for a topo at the local climbing shop in Cisano Sul Neva.
(Source of this info: Roc Pennavaire Association)
If you get lucky, you can also get quite long periods of cloudy weather - the choice of south facing walls is far bigger. Enjoy your trip!
@@samuelbuchmann thanks a lot! It looks like you are very familiar with the area 👍
I climbed in this area in april and may in 2023. We visited most of the mentioned crags, and found no problem with nesting bird closures.
Hey Samuel, cool video! Could you share, what filming equipment you used?
Hi there and thank you! Sure: A DJI Air 2 and a Sony A7S III (although I use an A1 now). And sometimes I mix in some iPhone 13 Pro footage.
@@samuelbuchmann Great, thanks! Was the Drone on autopilot during your climb?
@@Hiruko1987 I tried a couple of times and sometimes it works ok. But most of the time it will lose me or be so erratic that the footage is nearly unusable. I don't know if the newer drones are better at that but with this one I would recommend setting it in a fixed position and then climb - or if you are more than two people someone can obviously follow you manually.
Hello.... Where is this crag?
It's near a town called Alto in Val Pennavaire / Oltrefinale in Italy. Here is the link of The Crag: www.thecrag.com/de/klettern/italy/albenga/area/14157397 but I recommend just buying the latest guidebook in the bar in Cisano Sul Neva (here: goo.gl/maps/6PN6c6S5C8rdXsty7).
Sostegno volante is 7b+
Nah, it got corrected to 7c which is widely considered to be accurate 🙃 it‘s massively more difficult than the 7b+s on the same crag
@@samuelbuchmann sorry but check out the OG guidebook! And a try on Leva di Cambio (also 7b+) should settle the debate 😉
@@luigiborge3419 I did Leva di Cambio second go actually… for me there‘s at least a grade in between the the two. All the locals who I saw on Sostegno agreed and if you check The Crag and 8a.nu, pretty much everybody rates the climb at 7c 😉 but hey… who cares, it was definitely a challenge for me 🤷🏻♂️