Awesome! I had never seen those before. I’m familiar with the ones made for clothes washers. Those solenoids on washers are notorious for causing water hammer. They slam close in milli seconds. Thanks for the video. I’m getting a couple for my house. Take care!
I had persistant banging. It was because cover of the fill up tube created an on off situation with the water. I just moved the cover up ever so slightly. It still blocks the water from spraying upward but now it does not interfere with the float machanism. Try that before the hamner arrester. The issue I had could be costly if you pay for water and the gamner arrester would not help.
Thank you for the video. I purchased a Sioux Chief 660-TK. The review was pretty bad due to quality issues - the hex nut wasn't tightened in production so it would leak water everywhere. Fortunately the one I got is a new production with date code 12/21. I installed it within 5 minutes and doesn't leak at all. Now water hammer is completely eliminated. Thanks again!
I followed your instructions including ordering the exact resister. Everything worked perfectly!!! I thought I had air in my pipes but after watching your video and reviewing the bad toilet, I determined that you understood the issue. Further, I had to buy this part online because I could not find it after visiting Lowes and Home Depot etc. Apparently, this is a big problem in our area!! Lots of new toilets or new guts in toilets in our area. Thank you so much.
After finding the incoming pressure to my house was 90 psi, I had a pressure reducing valve installed by a plumber. Water hammer arrestors didn’t work-the pistons in them were bottomed out by the pressure. Afterward, showers no longer feel like you’re being sandblasted. Sprinkler timers don’t keep failing. Now water hammer no longer happens when the washing machine solenoid valves close. And the toilets don’t squeal or hammer when filling.
UPDATE.: I received the watts 1/2" LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor and a 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee today,October 6th,2020,and I no longer hear my pipes rattling when I flush my water heater.I ordered another watts 1/2" LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor and another 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee to install on my cold water line because one water line runs from the main water line to my boiler and my water heater and I have a second water line which is for cold water only.I know that I should have ordered both water hammer arresors and both copper press tees at the same time but I felt that I should play it safe and install the first water hammer arrestor and copper pipe press tee before proceeding any further just in case.You're a great inspiration Mr.Sessa,I really mean that,God bless you and yours and know that I enjoy your videos and look forward to watching more of your videos,you're the best without a doubt Mr.Sessa.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos You are most welcome Mr.Sessa.You're on point with everything that you say and demonstrate,it is a true honor to know you and learn from you Mr.Sessa,I really mean that.
Thanks for the info... I have to buy four! The noise scared the hell out of us I thought it was from the water main to the house 🤯 I’m giving this a try
This is the only video I have found that addressed my problem and explained the cause. It makes so much sense!! Mine doesn't really make a bang when the water shuts off, it's more of a loud "squawk", for lack of a better word. But it's only when the water shuts off after the tank is filled. It has to be the slamming shut of these new style fill valves. I'm going to try this and report back!!!!
Thank you man! I was up late trying to fix the sound last night! I recently replace the float in toilet. I have the water supply opened all the way up. I keep hearing the bang sound. I think I’ll be able to sort this out now! Great video.
Same here. I replaced my fill valve and started to hear a thump a few seconds after i flush my toilet upstairs. Like a big thump in the pipe in the wall
There is a loud chugging noise at the front of my basement when the toilet is flushed. I tried turning off the main and emptying the water from all house faucets and toilet but the problem persists. The noise is not at the toilet but in the pipes. Do you think your solution would help? Thanks
Welp, I hope water hammer is why the toilet made a terrible shuddering sound when I flushed it (but it didn't vibrate). I must have jumped ten feet and then panicked that the Red Sea was going to burst thru the wall. So I turned the water off and "fixed" it. 😅 Anyway, thanks for the video! When I spring the news on my husband, I can also offer a possible solution and soften his homeowner's headache a little bit 🙂
@Kelly J Jackson You can say that again,when we first moved to this house the water hammer was so severe that when ever a faucet was opened and closed the pipes in the basement would bang as if somebody was down in the basement whacking the pipes with a hammer,it was so loud that I could hear the banging clearly and several times I jumped up and ran down the stairs to my basement.Like Mr.Sessa says,water hammer should not to be ignored because it can lead to a catastrophic flood.One of the really bad things that can ocurr which comes to mind is the glass linging in a water heater being cracked as a result of water hammer.Even tempered glass can crack if it's exposed to shocks with enough force.
Great video Mr.Sessa,water hammer should not and must not be ignored because water hammer can and will damge pipes and plumbing fictures after a time.I have an interesting situation here in my house.I installed a check valve on the pipe that feeds my boiler's fill valve because when my boiler was replaced the boiler mechanics didn't install a check valve to prevent the water from the boiler from flowing back up into the main water line and that concerned me because in general when ever a boiler is flushed or drained to any extent the water tends to have rust.Before I installed the check valve to prevent water from returning from the boiler to the main water line I could flush my water heater without any issues.Last night I went down to my basement and decided to flush the water heater and low and behond the water pipes rattled.I should mention that the tankless water coil on my boiler is piped to my water heater so I installed a bypass from my boiler's tankless water coil to my water heater in case anything ever goes wrong with the tankless water coil I can isolate the tankless water coil and still be able to get hot water from my water heater.My plumbing pipes do not rattle or bang when I use any of the faucets in the house or flush the toilet since having installed the check valve to the boiler's fill valve but the water pipes now rattle if I flush my water heater and the T&P relief valve which should be tested every year to insure that the T&P relief valve is functioning correctly.Next month I will be ordering a watts 1/2" LF150A, Water Hammer Arrestor and a 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee to install the water hammer arrestor since I own copper pipe press tools.The fun never stops with plumbing,sometimes you correct one issue and another issue arises.Gee,isn't plumbing so much fun?AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!On the bright side I'm capable of doing my own repairs for the most part so I save money not having to call a plumber.Thank you for the video and God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa,you're the best.
Is anyone able to link me to a video of what this sounds like? With my situation I'm having a hard time diagnosing from reading online. I got a new toilet recently where I am finding I have to hold down the handle longer than my previous toilet. So sometimes I forget and let go too soon, and that is when I hear a big glug/bang sound and the whole toilet vibrates. I don't seem to get this when I hold the handle down long enough. I am worried this blast of pressure could potentially damage something. I am trying to figure out if this is water hammer from the water supply being cut off suddenly by a "half-flush" (though, doesn't water hammer happen after the toilet stops running, not at the moment of handle release?) or if it is the toilet flapper smacking down hard since it wasn't lifted fully. Would anyone be able to help me diagnose or say whether this could damage anything?
What you describe could be a loose or brokren washer in the shut off valve leading up to the toilet. Shut the main water supply to the house and pull the valve apart to inspect the washer. If it's loose, tighten. If broken replace.
Ballcocks fill slow? I say that ballcocks have a much faster fill rate than fill valves. It has more to do with the water flow. In a typical ballcock the water way is up and down through a reasonably sized pipe and back down through a reasonably sized pipe. In a fill valve it goes up a small pipe in the middle and down around a narrow gap around the sides of the pipe with four slots at the bottom. A much less ideal design, more restrictive.
@Terlets and Stuff You have a valid point but the fact remains that any quick closing valve can and will cause water hammer because water is heavy and once water starts to move it's not so easy to stop the water from moving.Look at it as a sudden stop by your car,if you analyze the sudden stop the inertia from the sudden stop propels you forward and the car itself tends to lurch backwards from the inertia of the car having been moving forward before the car abruptly stopped.It's like when you drop a ball the ball tends to bounce.
@@terletsandstuff6142 Yes,I had my water pipes rattling when ever I flushed my water heater after I installed a check valve upstream of my boiler's fill valve and what I did was that I ordered two Watts1/2" LF150A Water Hammer arrestors,: www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0121227-1-2-LF150A-Water-Hammer-Arrestor-Lead-Free I installed them and that was the end of the water pipes rattling.The regular water hammer arrestors work but I prefer the water hammer arrestors that use a diaphram and compressed air instead of a piston with o-rings because over time the o-rings get worn from the piston's up and down movement inside of the cylinder.We had our boiler replaced but the boiler installers neglected to install a check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve,I guess the plumbing codes over here do not require a check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve.I installed the check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve because I don't want rusty water flowing back into the main water line and mixing with the water that we drink and cook with.
Would this also work for toilet systems in condos? One of my toilets that’s a guest bathroom makes this noise. I don’t use it often. I don’t think my unit has its own water valve switch. Would turning the toilet water switch be the same ?
Is this part considered more of a band-aid than a complete fix? It seems if water hammer starts in a toilet that was previously working fine, that would imply an existing part of the toilet needs to be repaired for a true fix as opposed to adding in a water hammer arrestor.
If you have a quick closing fill valve that was not making any banging previously, your problem could be elsewhere (excessive incoming water pressure to the home). In which case you might install a whole house water hammer arrestor, economically speaking this point of use water hammer will solve the problem for that specific toilet.
I have water hammer in a toilet w/a five yr. old Fluidmaster fill valve that starts before the shut off when the valve begins closing. It lasts for several minutes.Any suggestions?
So I got the part and unfortunately it did not solve my particular noise when the water shuts off after the tank is done filling. In fact I think the noise was a little louder with the water hammer arrester on, so I took it off. So maybe the loud "squawk" or "honk" is a different problem, but I have no idea what. It only happens right when the water stops filling. It's not a foghorn sound like some of the other videos. I'm hating the thought of replacing the entire workings inside the tank and then not have that be the issue. I will keep searching for the answer!
I would try adding a water hammer arrestor at the water main where it enters the house. Look at what Sioux Chief has to offer, how high is your incoming water pressure? Do you have a pressure reducing valve on the incoming main? www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/arresters-and-trap-primers/arresters/hydrarester
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I don’t know what the water pressure is coming into the house. I will have to check. I doubt that there’s water hammer arrestor on the main where it enters the house, but I’ll check. Thanks for the suggestions!
Bob, my toilet makes the hammering noise the second I flush and I can open the tub faucet next to the toilet and it will stop. Think the mini rester will help?
You most likely have high water pressure, this will eliminate the issue for that specific toilet. You should have the incoming water pressure to your home checked to verify.
Hey Bob we have that bang sound when we flash all 3 toilets in the house. Pretty loud and disturbing. Do we have to install water hammer arrestor in all 3 or you think it's a different issue?
Could be excessive water pressure in the house as a whole. What state are you located in ? Do you know the incoming water pressure in your home? Have all three toilets always acted like this or is this a recent occurrence? I would say a safe working water pressure is in the 50 to 70 psi range. Anything above 90 plus psi would require a pressure reducing valve on the incoming water supply. For instance most all homes in California require pressure reducing valves because of the excessive water pressure which can cause all sorts of plumbing issues. You can purchase an inexpensive pressure gage from any home center, connect it to a garden hose bib and take a pressure reading. Preferably in the evening hours when the pressure will be at its highest.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos You can say that again Mr.Sessa.The week before last the water company here in PA where I live called us and left a message that they were going to perform maintenence on the water mains and that they were going to flush the water mains which is understandable because plumbing systems have to be repaired and flushed to keep the plumbing systems operating properly.One day the week before last I was in my basement checking things and making sure that everything is fine.While in my basement I looked at the water pressure gauge that I installed downstream from my water pressure reducing valve and I became alarmed and upset because my water pressure gauge was reading 90psi and usually my water pressure reducing valve keeps the water pressure at about 60psi which is what I set the water pressure reducing valve to.To make a long story short I immediately called the water company and raised a stink.The water company customer service rep. right away told me that most likely it was my water pressure reducing valve and I became livid because I bought and installed my water pressure reducing valve September 5th,2019 and since having been installed my water pressure reducing valve has maintained the water pressure at 60psi which is what I set it to.What happened was that the water company increased the water pressure in order to flush the water mains without first opening a vlave or what ever to allow the excess water pressure an out and as a result the excessive water pressure affected us.There were three supervisors at the water company and they were all on the phones most likely because my neighbors and other people also noticed the excessive increase in their water pressure and also called the water company to raise a stink.After I called the water company and filed a complaint the water pressure dropped back down and is now steady at 60psi.I even took pictures of the water pressure gauge at 90psi and I told the water company that if any of my plumbing,my water heater or my boiler incurred damage as a result of the water company raising the water pressure up so high like they did that they,the water company,were going to have to pay for any and all damages resulting from their incompetence.I replaced my water heater last year August 12th,2019,I have an expansion tank and all of the bells and whistles plus I overhauled the plumbing pipes that had been installed all helter-skelter as if whoever installed the plumbing didn't give two craps so I have a lot of time and money invested in my plumbing.Water companies are supposed to have engineers so I can't for the life of me understand how the water company cranked up the water pressure so high without first insuring that the excessive water pressure had where to go.In NYC the fire hoses are about 2" in diameter,here where I live the fire hoses look to have a diameter of 6" which clearly indicates that this area has very high water pressure.
bob thanks for this video I just changed my mothers fill valve with a fluidmaster and like you said about the banging it was not happening before I changed it. know what about using a different fill valve would this correct the banging ? anyway I just ordered one of these things . will it stiil work with the current supply line its the straight type ?
Bob what size flex line was that you used in this video? it looks like I may have to change the one on the toilet for this install the one on it now is a straight 8 /12
Hi Bob, stripped threads on threaded 1/2” female pvc elbow on my new tub started leaking. How can I fix this issue without ripping tile off wall and replacing elbow? Thanks Bob!
I laughed out loud at this one! My toilet's noise doesn't match any of the noises described on any video (it's a loud "squawk") - but I'm going to try this mini-arrester and see if it helps. Good luck with your bell lol!
I would avoid buying or using one of these from old stock that doesn't meet today's standard to have less than .25% lead when used with potable water. Newly manufactured versions of this product do meet this potable water standard. While you would normally not drink from your toilet tank, you might have to do so after an earthquake or another disaster. Also, the water in the lines will flow backward from this device if the house water is shut off or fails. While the risk is extremely small given how seldom the above scenarios might occur, why would you use a product connected to your drinking water supply line that doesn't meet current potable water standards? Incidentally, you flubbed your joke about drinking from the toilet tank. Go back and listen to what you said and I think you will agree that what you meant to say was said backward.
Check your water pressure. I believe these are rated up to 60PSI. If the pressure is too high, you need a pressure regulator or a larger surge arrestor, which doesn't exist in this style.
Awesome! I had never seen those before. I’m familiar with the ones made for clothes washers. Those solenoids on washers are notorious for causing water hammer. They slam close in milli seconds. Thanks for the video. I’m getting a couple for my house. Take care!
I had persistant banging. It was because cover of the fill up tube created an on off situation with the water. I just moved the cover up ever so slightly. It still blocks the water from spraying upward but now it does not interfere with the float machanism. Try that before the hamner arrester. The issue I had could be costly if you pay for water and the gamner arrester would not help.
Thank you for the video. I purchased a Sioux Chief 660-TK. The review was pretty bad due to quality issues - the hex nut wasn't tightened in production so it would leak water everywhere. Fortunately the one I got is a new production with date code 12/21. I installed it within 5 minutes and doesn't leak at all. Now water hammer is completely eliminated. Thanks again!
I followed your instructions including ordering the exact resister. Everything worked perfectly!!!
I thought I had air in my pipes but after watching your video and reviewing the bad toilet, I determined that you understood the issue. Further, I had to buy this part online because I could not find it after visiting Lowes and Home Depot etc. Apparently, this is a big problem in our area!! Lots of new toilets or new guts in toilets in our area. Thank you so much.
My Pleasure! Common problem where high water pressures existe!
After finding the incoming pressure to my house was 90 psi, I had a pressure reducing valve installed by a plumber. Water hammer arrestors didn’t work-the pistons in them were bottomed out by the pressure. Afterward, showers no longer feel like you’re being sandblasted. Sprinkler timers don’t keep failing. Now water hammer no longer happens when the washing machine solenoid valves close. And the toilets don’t squeal or hammer when filling.
UPDATE.: I received the watts 1/2" LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor and a 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee today,October 6th,2020,and I no longer hear my pipes rattling when I flush my water heater.I ordered another watts 1/2" LF150A Water Hammer Arrestor and another 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee to install on my cold water line because one water line runs from the main water line to my boiler and my water heater and I have a second water line which is for cold water only.I know that I should have ordered both water hammer arresors and both copper press tees at the same time but I felt that I should play it safe and install the first water hammer arrestor and copper pipe press tee before proceeding any further just in case.You're a great inspiration Mr.Sessa,I really mean that,God bless you and yours and know that I enjoy your videos and look forward to watching more of your videos,you're the best without a doubt Mr.Sessa.
I'm humbled, Nelson! Thanks for your support
@@BobsPlumbingVideos You are most welcome Mr.Sessa.You're on point with everything that you say and demonstrate,it is a true honor to know you and learn from you Mr.Sessa,I really mean that.
Thanks for the info... I have to buy four! The noise scared the hell out of us I thought it was from the water main to the house 🤯 I’m giving this a try
I wish you showed us before and after the installation and if really the noise gone or not.
People would like to spend their money to get a guy like you Bob!
This is the only video I have found that addressed my problem and explained the cause. It makes so much sense!! Mine doesn't really make a bang when the water shuts off, it's more of a loud "squawk", for lack of a better word. But it's only when the water shuts off after the tank is filled. It has to be the slamming shut of these new style fill valves. I'm going to try this and report back!!!!
Excellent!
Thank you man! I was up late trying to fix the sound last night! I recently replace the float in toilet. I have the water supply opened all the way up. I keep hearing the bang sound. I think I’ll be able to sort this out now! Great video.
Same here. I replaced my fill valve and started to hear a thump a few seconds after i flush my toilet upstairs. Like a big thump in the pipe in the wall
Same w me. I keep hearing banging. Ill try installing this when i get the chance
The best! Great video. I ordered two… hoping this solves my issues 😊
Thanks for checking out the video, much appreciated! Bob.
There is a loud chugging noise at the front of my basement when the toilet is flushed. I tried turning off the main and emptying the water from all house faucets and toilet but the problem persists. The noise is not at the toilet but in the pipes. Do you think your solution would help? Thanks
I have the exact same problem
Welp, I hope water hammer is why the toilet made a terrible shuddering sound when I flushed it (but it didn't vibrate). I must have jumped ten feet and then panicked that the Red Sea was going to burst thru the wall. So I turned the water off and "fixed" it. 😅
Anyway, thanks for the video! When I spring the news on my husband, I can also offer a possible solution and soften his homeowner's headache a little bit 🙂
@Kelly J Jackson You can say that again,when we first moved to this house the water hammer was so severe that when ever a faucet was opened and closed the pipes in the basement would bang as if somebody was down in the basement whacking the pipes with a hammer,it was so loud that I could hear the banging clearly and several times I jumped up and ran down the stairs to my basement.Like Mr.Sessa says,water hammer should not to be ignored because it can lead to a catastrophic flood.One of the really bad things that can ocurr which comes to mind is the glass linging in a water heater being cracked as a result of water hammer.Even tempered glass can crack if it's exposed to shocks with enough force.
Great video Mr.Sessa,water hammer should not and must not be ignored because water hammer can and will damge pipes and plumbing fictures after a time.I have an interesting situation here in my house.I installed a check valve on the pipe that feeds my boiler's fill valve because when my boiler was replaced the boiler mechanics didn't install a check valve to prevent the water from the boiler from flowing back up into the main water line and that concerned me because in general when ever a boiler is flushed or drained to any extent the water tends to have rust.Before I installed the check valve to prevent water from returning from the boiler to the main water line I could flush my water heater without any issues.Last night I went down to my basement and decided to flush the water heater and low and behond the water pipes rattled.I should mention that the tankless water coil on my boiler is piped to my water heater so I installed a bypass from my boiler's tankless water coil to my water heater in case anything ever goes wrong with the tankless water coil I can isolate the tankless water coil and still be able to get hot water from my water heater.My plumbing pipes do not rattle or bang when I use any of the faucets in the house or flush the toilet since having installed the check valve to the boiler's fill valve but the water pipes now rattle if I flush my water heater and the T&P relief valve which should be tested every year to insure that the T&P relief valve is functioning correctly.Next month I will be ordering a watts 1/2" LF150A, Water Hammer Arrestor and a 1/2" Press x Press x Female Copper Tee to install the water hammer arrestor since I own copper pipe press tools.The fun never stops with plumbing,sometimes you correct one issue and another issue arises.Gee,isn't plumbing so much fun?AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!On the bright side I'm capable of doing my own repairs for the most part so I save money not having to call a plumber.Thank you for the video and God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa,you're the best.
Is anyone able to link me to a video of what this sounds like? With my situation I'm having a hard time diagnosing from reading online.
I got a new toilet recently where I am finding I have to hold down the handle longer than my previous toilet. So sometimes I forget and let go too soon, and that is when I hear a big glug/bang sound and the whole toilet vibrates. I don't seem to get this when I hold the handle down long enough. I am worried this blast of pressure could potentially damage something.
I am trying to figure out if this is water hammer from the water supply being cut off suddenly by a "half-flush" (though, doesn't water hammer happen after the toilet stops running, not at the moment of handle release?) or if it is the toilet flapper smacking down hard since it wasn't lifted fully.
Would anyone be able to help me diagnose or say whether this could damage anything?
It would be helpfull if you showed an example of what the thumping sounds like.
"BANG"!
Great video very well spoken clear and easy instructions never heard of them before thank you very much was going to call a plumber.
Thank you and much appreciated! I've installed alot of Fluidmasters in the SteelMill I work at. Plus one at home.
Thank you my friend! Bob
Thank you for this video. My toilet is rumbling like a jackhammer when I flush the toilet. Is this the same problem or is there a different diagnosis?
What you describe could be a loose or brokren washer in the shut off valve leading up to the toilet. Shut the main water supply to the house and pull the valve apart to inspect the washer. If it's loose, tighten. If broken replace.
I don't know why it works, I don't know how it works, I don't care but it works Thanks Bob.
I don't know how it works, I don't know why it works, but it works.Thanks Bob.
Ballcocks fill slow? I say that ballcocks have a much faster fill rate than fill valves. It has more to do with the water flow. In a typical ballcock the water way is up and down through a reasonably sized pipe and back down through a reasonably sized pipe. In a fill valve it goes up a small pipe in the middle and down around a narrow gap around the sides of the pipe with four slots at the bottom. A much less ideal design, more restrictive.
@Terlets and Stuff You have a valid point but the fact remains that any quick closing valve can and will cause water hammer because water is heavy and once water starts to move it's not so easy to stop the water from moving.Look at it as a sudden stop by your car,if you analyze the sudden stop the inertia from the sudden stop propels you forward and the car itself tends to lurch backwards from the inertia of the car having been moving forward before the car abruptly stopped.It's like when you drop a ball the ball tends to bounce.
@@nelsonechevarria7009 I do understand this and that makes perfect sense. Is'nt that what the arrested attached to the are for?
@@terletsandstuff6142 Yes,I had my water pipes rattling when ever I flushed my water heater after I installed a check valve upstream of my boiler's fill valve and what I did was that I ordered two Watts1/2" LF150A Water Hammer arrestors,: www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0121227-1-2-LF150A-Water-Hammer-Arrestor-Lead-Free I installed them and that was the end of the water pipes rattling.The regular water hammer arrestors work but I prefer the water hammer arrestors that use a diaphram and compressed air instead of a piston with o-rings because over time the o-rings get worn from the piston's up and down movement inside of the cylinder.We had our boiler replaced but the boiler installers neglected to install a check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve,I guess the plumbing codes over here do not require a check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve.I installed the check valve upstream of the boiler's fill valve because I don't want rusty water flowing back into the main water line and mixing with the water that we drink and cook with.
Would this also work for toilet systems in condos? One of my toilets that’s a guest bathroom makes this noise. I don’t use it often. I don’t think my unit has its own water valve switch. Would turning the toilet water switch be the same ?
If you have unusually high water pressure in the building, turning down the toilet supply valve may help reduce the noise.
Will this also stop the banging sound from washing machine? Do I need a special valve for that as well?
These are designed for washing machines. ua-cam.com/video/zcTDz4BY8A4/v-deo.html
Is this part considered more of a band-aid than a complete fix? It seems if water hammer starts in a toilet that was previously working fine, that would imply an existing part of the toilet needs to be repaired for a true fix as opposed to adding in a water hammer arrestor.
If you have a quick closing fill valve that was not making any banging previously, your problem could be elsewhere (excessive incoming water pressure to the home). In which case you might install a whole house water hammer arrestor, economically speaking this point of use water hammer will solve the problem for that specific toilet.
I have water hammer in a toilet w/a five yr. old Fluidmaster fill valve that starts before the shut off when the valve begins closing. It lasts for several minutes.Any suggestions?
I would start by installing one of these water hammer arrestors at that toilet. Any other issues with water hammer in the house?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos or just replace the float valve itself with a hydraulic type -- eg. Siamp "Quieto Od"
So I got the part and unfortunately it did not solve my particular noise when the water shuts off after the tank is done filling. In fact I think the noise was a little louder with the water hammer arrester on, so I took it off. So maybe the loud "squawk" or "honk" is a different problem, but I have no idea what. It only happens right when the water stops filling. It's not a foghorn sound like some of the other videos. I'm hating the thought of replacing the entire workings inside the tank and then not have that be the issue. I will keep searching for the answer!
I would try adding a water hammer arrestor at the water main where it enters the house. Look at what Sioux Chief has to offer, how high is your incoming water pressure? Do you have a pressure reducing valve on the incoming main?
www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/arresters-and-trap-primers/arresters/hydrarester
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I don’t know what the water pressure is coming into the house. I will have to check. I doubt that there’s water hammer arrestor on the main where it enters the house, but I’ll check. Thanks for the suggestions!
Does the arrestor fit all toilets?
It will fit all standard fill valves.
Thank You Bob
Thank you!👍
I have them on every toilet and washer still have water hammer. Brand new house with pet and pipes are secured
What is the incoming water pressure to your home?
Thanks
Bob, my toilet makes the hammering noise the second I flush and I can open the tub faucet next to the toilet and it will stop. Think the mini rester will help?
Absolutely, first thing I would do before moving on!
My wife just showed me this video, handed me the part, and I installed it in about a minute. Knocking not totally gone but definitely much less.
It's more the valve than this. The korky 528x (black cap on top) valve solved it for me. No need for this extra part.
Neato, thanks Bob.
It didn’t work for but I also have a bidet connect to the outlet. Does this matter?
Shouldn't!
Thank you.
my new TOTO one piece has what I'd call a clunk at end. Is this what this helps solve i.e. the " loud noise"? thanks
You most likely have high water pressure, this will eliminate the issue for that specific toilet. You should have the incoming water pressure to your home checked to verify.
I put this in my toilet and did not work don't why. Do you think this a shut off valve problem?
Hey Bob we have that bang sound when we flash all 3 toilets in the house. Pretty loud and disturbing. Do we have to install water hammer arrestor in all 3 or you think it's a different issue?
Could be excessive water pressure in the house as a whole. What state are you located in ? Do you know the incoming water pressure in your home? Have all three toilets always acted like this or is this a recent occurrence? I would say a safe working water pressure is in the 50 to 70 psi range.
Anything above 90 plus psi would require a pressure reducing valve on the incoming water supply. For instance most all homes in California require pressure reducing valves because of the excessive water pressure which can cause all sorts of plumbing issues.
You can purchase an inexpensive pressure gage from any home center, connect it to a garden hose bib and take a pressure reading. Preferably in the evening hours when the pressure will be at its highest.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos You can say that again Mr.Sessa.The week before last the water company here in PA where I live called us and left a message that they were going to perform maintenence on the water mains and that they were going to flush the water mains which is understandable because plumbing systems have to be repaired and flushed to keep the plumbing systems operating properly.One day the week before last I was in my basement checking things and making sure that everything is fine.While in my basement I looked at the water pressure gauge that I installed downstream from my water pressure reducing valve and I became alarmed and upset because my water pressure gauge was reading 90psi and usually my water pressure reducing valve keeps the water pressure at about 60psi which is what I set the water pressure reducing valve to.To make a long story short I immediately called the water company and raised a stink.The water company customer service rep. right away told me that most likely it was my water pressure reducing valve and I became livid because I bought and installed my water pressure reducing valve September 5th,2019 and since having been installed my water pressure reducing valve has maintained the water pressure at 60psi which is what I set it to.What happened was that the water company increased the water pressure in order to flush the water mains without first opening a vlave or what ever to allow the excess water pressure an out and as a result the excessive water pressure affected us.There were three supervisors at the water company and they were all on the phones most likely because my neighbors and other people also noticed the excessive increase in their water pressure and also called the water company to raise a stink.After I called the water company and filed a complaint the water pressure dropped back down and is now steady at 60psi.I even took pictures of the water pressure gauge at 90psi and I told the water company that if any of my plumbing,my water heater or my boiler incurred damage as a result of the water company raising the water pressure up so high like they did that they,the water company,were going to have to pay for any and all damages resulting from their incompetence.I replaced my water heater last year August 12th,2019,I have an expansion tank and all of the bells and whistles plus I overhauled the plumbing pipes that had been installed all helter-skelter as if whoever installed the plumbing didn't give two craps so I have a lot of time and money invested in my plumbing.Water companies are supposed to have engineers so I can't for the life of me understand how the water company cranked up the water pressure so high without first insuring that the excessive water pressure had where to go.In NYC the fire hoses are about 2" in diameter,here where I live the fire hoses look to have a diameter of 6" which clearly indicates that this area has very high water pressure.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos both my toilets bang now too. We live in FL but i dont know what the pressure is
Hi Bob! Do you know the part no water hammer arrester? And where could you buy it here in Canada they have different one. Thank you.
You should be able to contact the manufacturer for a source in Canada. Sioux Chief Website - www.siouxchief.com/
bob thanks for this video I just changed my mothers fill valve with a fluidmaster and like you said about the banging it was not happening before I changed it. know what about using a different fill valve would this correct the banging ? anyway I just ordered one of these things . will it stiil work with the current supply line its the straight type ?
Most of the quick shut off fill valves regardless of manufacturer will often cause a banging issue. Should work fine with your existing supply line.
Bob what size flex line was that you used in this video? it looks like I may have to change the one on the toilet for this install the one on it now is a straight 8 /12
I use 12" stainless steel braided supply lines. Occasionally may have to use a 16" or 20", but 99% of the time a 12" supply will do the trick.
Amazing! Thank You so much!!!
Thanks a looot it really helped me up hear in UK
Great info!
Thank you. Good video.
That didn't work for me.
Hi Bob, stripped threads on threaded 1/2” female pvc elbow on my new tub started leaking. How can I fix this issue without ripping tile off wall and replacing elbow? Thanks Bob!
What elbow are you referring to? Send me some pic's. info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
I am hearing a bell. Am I losing my mind?
I've heard similar sounds coming from a fill valve, you're not losing your mind.
I laughed out loud at this one! My toilet's noise doesn't match any of the noises described on any video (it's a loud "squawk") - but I'm going to try this mini-arrester and see if it helps. Good luck with your bell lol!
I would avoid buying or using one of these from old stock that doesn't meet today's standard to have less than .25% lead when used with potable water. Newly manufactured versions of this product do meet this potable water standard. While you would normally not drink from your toilet tank, you might have to do so after an earthquake or another disaster. Also, the water in the lines will flow backward from this device if the house water is shut off or fails. While the risk is extremely small given how seldom the above scenarios might occur, why would you use a product connected to your drinking water supply line that doesn't meet current potable water standards?
Incidentally, you flubbed your joke about drinking from the toilet tank. Go back and listen to what you said and I think you will agree that what you meant to say was said backward.
Great point! And yes I make an awful lot of flubs! My apologizes! Bob
Hahaha Slenderman
I have absolutely no interest in this topic. I'm just here for the accent.
I put this in my toilet and did not work don't why. Do you think this a shut off valve problem?
Check your water pressure. I believe these are rated up to 60PSI. If the pressure is too high, you need a pressure regulator or a larger surge arrestor, which doesn't exist in this style.