How To Fix ● Banging Rattling Hammering Water Pipes In Your House !
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2024
- Many of us have loud noisy banging pipes when we turn off a faucet, use the washer machine or dishwasher or shower. Here's how to fix those water hammering pipes for good. Water pipes that jump and bang are unpleasant to listen too. Fix water hammer for good.
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Is there anything better than smart people solving real world problems? Great vid Chris
Chris you never cease to amaze with your ingenuity and thorough solutions. Fantastic!
I replaced a gas-fired water heater 3yrs ago. Noticed mineral sediment build-up on the hot water outlet. Used new copper pipes where needed and a new ball-valve shut off. Before changing, pipes throughout the house would tap with hot water running. After changing, no more tapping. Currently (Feb. '24) tapping started again. I closed water feed, removed inlet and outlet fittings at the coupling. Mineral sediment built up on both in & out. Cleared the sediment with a brass wire brush. Hooked back up, ran water. Pipe tapping has stopped. I'm a homeowner/handyman. I want to share this as I'm probably not the only one with this experience.
Your wife is thinking, “what took you so long to do this anyway”?! 🤨
Awesome video as always chris! Been doing residential plumbing for almost ten years now and I can safely say that strapping up loose pipes and installing a quality pressure regulator will probably cost someone close to $900 in my area.
Very thorough. The pipes will eventually wear through where they are bumping and rubbing. Good to get on top of it. Copper pipes will last a LONG time normally, but these things will wear them out.
Hey!! It's so good to see you again Chris! Happy New Year! What an awesome video. I love how you are always concise and detailed in all of your videos, they are a pleasure to watch. Thank you again Chris and take care.✨️
Well explained! I was just noticing this issue recently too since getting a new washer that has very quick electronic valves. I'll need to look for those piston-based dampeners for sure (you forgot to list those above, by the way) in addition to checking out where the pipes move. Thanks so much for the video!
this are the kind of channel we should pay to watch.
The whole one million of us? Chris wouldn't know what to do with all that money. ;)
I have a feeling you could have gotten by with just the pressure regulator. Congratulations on 1 million subs!
I agree. A partially clogged screen in a pressure regulator will cause water hammer. Ask me how I know? My 25 yr old house slowly developed worsening pipes banging. I put Sioux Chief water arresters on various lines. They helped initially but the banging grew worse. I installed an expansion tank. It didn’t help. Finally a coffee shop buddy suggested replacing the pressure regulator. The screen on the regulator was almost clogged with debris. A new regulator solved my pipes banging.
You are mistaken, the pressure regulator simply reduces the inlet pressure but has almost no effect on water hammer. So a pressure regulator is needed especially in high-rise apartment buildings (on the lower floors the pressure can be very high, which is extremely undesirable for flexible hoses). And a water hammer compensator is needed next to the washing machine and dishwasher; also, lever-controlled taps can suddenly shut off the flow...
Your feeling is wrong.
Thanks Chris, brilliant video, keep pumping them out. Cheers
Thanks, will do!
Great video. Thanks. I don't have banging pipes, but I watched it anyway!
Thanks for posting!
Great info amazing thank you
NIce methode !!. This is also watersaving, so let's start saving the planet
Great video . Much appreciated .
Glad you enjoyed it
Very cool.
Wonderful
Great video. Liked and subscribed 👍
I have same dilemma. Wife not willing to open and close faucets for testing. Thank you for this video.
I am going to try the things you suggested however my pipes are in the attic and I fear the area where it might need a new bracket is within the walls. I have to do something however as it is very annoying and I don’t want it to ultimately shake more parts of it loose. This was an excellent and thorough video that I truly appreciate!
I like your vids
Well done.
Thanks!
Nice video and great work solving that problem. It's so much fun figuring problems out yourself and learning instead of just paying someone. I was wondering did you install a thermal expansion tank on your water heater after installing the pressure regulator? As a plumber I know it is code to do so, before the regulator, when your water was heated and expands it pushed out into the water main, the pressure regulator however does not allow back flow. Thought I'd let you know so you don't come home to water in your basement from the pressure relief valve on the water heater blowing.
Keep up the good videos!
I learned that the day after I uploaded the video! I added those details in the description that the regulator in the video is for cold water systems only and the other one I listed has a built in by-pass valve. With that one as soon as the pressure goes higher than mains water pressure, it releases it.
As a plumber... this is really a smart idea... next level sir
Thanks for that!
Thanks Chris! Another fantastic video. More please!
After installing a pressure regulator you are also going to need to add a Thermal Expansion tank. Otherwise your hot water tank is going to leak from your safety relief valve. This is because the pressure regulator will no longer allow the heat expansion of the water back into your supply inlet.
That’s interesting. I never thought of that. I suppose an easy way to check this would be to add my pressure gauge to the faucet again and do another 24 hour check to see what the pressure climbs to in the system
If that is the case why are new homes built with a pressure regulator and no expansion tank?
@@happycamper5900 Some pressure regulators have a built in by-pass. The one he used does not. Check your pressure regulator to see if they have a built in by-pass or not.
Ok, so I've had my pressure gauge on the faucet for 72 hours to see how high the pressure got. We've had showers and used the dishwasher etc. The max pressure it got to was 130 psi. I definitely will be installing an expansion tank or a different water pressure reducer that has a by-pass valve built in. Do they make them with sharkbite connectors? I'm having a hard time sourcing one.
Thermal expansion tanks also reduce water hammering.
Interesting. Glad my water using equipment has slow closing valves.
I think all washing machine and dishwasher makers should be required to have softer working valves. Just makes sense.
Do you think if you started with step 3, the regulator, that the problem would have been eliminated? In any event, thanks for the video.
only reduces since the pressure is lower. but vibration still exist so its better to fix the real problem and then move on to reduce the pressure so things dont easily break loose
That's a great question. It really depends on your budget and which part you want to attack first to solve.
I would check the water pressure 1st. Most valves on the dishwasher, ice maker, toilet, washing machine or faucets are not rated for more than 120psi so you could have this issue of valves failing prematurely if the pressure is high. Plus, most plumbing codes only allow a max of 80psi. Lowering the pressure will greatly reduce the water hammer effect as well. The water hammer arrester's work well also but over time, water will get past the seals and displace the air rendering them useless. I noticed the pipes started banging at my house with copper pipes. When I put a pressure gauge on the line, it read normal but after several hours of no water usage, the pressure would climb up to 150psi. My pressure regulator had failed so I replaced it.
FIRST step: check water pressure, but it works for being a DIYer.
I have an Asco Solenoid Valve in all my rental properties with the Alexa controls to turn off the water completely when the rental is not rented.
Alexa also provides voice control from anywhere.
This saves me money in case the toilets are leaking and isolates the house to find leaks in piping outside the house.
If I find a toilet tank empty after being off for awhile, I know to replace the flapper valve.
And if there is water consumption while the water is off, I know the leak is exterior.
110 psi water pressure... yie, that is really high.
No wonder you had water hammer. You're lucky you didn't have leaks!
Brilliant as always; super concise, inexpensive and practical. What do you (did you?) do for a day job? Love your vids.
I was an Auto Tech (mechanic)
@@chrisnotap Keep the awesome vids coming, I look forward to every one.
Metal pipe strapping isn't meant to hold down metal pipes. There's a real good chance of the pipe rubbing where it makes contact with the strapping and causing a leak.
The metal strapping was only over the foam covered pipe.
Ain't no more rubbing happening with THIS man's pipes !
I'll subscribe from watching this first video of yours.
Thanks.
Welcome aboard!!
100+ psi! That's ridiculous! Most community water systems have you install pressure regulators on the incoming line after the meter, and I've never seen a residential well system even set above 60psi on the pressure regulator and would have a 75psi relief valve installed at the tank as well in case the regulator failed. You addressed two main concerns on water pipes though. Loose pipes and water hammer will split plumbing joints and put excessive stress on your water-using appliances.
Many public water systems will have really high pressure, over 100 PSI, in some parts of the system. The pressure reducing valves are a must.
I don’t care for the term “pressure regulating” on these because that implies that these valves have more capability than what they can actually do: they can only reduce the pressure.
Normal water pressure should be between 40 and 60 psi. I had a house with low water pressure and I had a pressure regulator in the basement. I adjusted the pressure and then I heard some water leaking out of the water heater. The TP valve had triggered and water was leaking into the basement floor drain. I turned the pressure down until it stopped leaking.
The TP valve is the temerature pressure safety valve that protects your water heater. TP valves come in different pressures and the lowest I have found is 75 psi. I have also found 150 psi TP valves. Before adjusting your water pressure, look at your water heater’s TP valve and read the pressure.
Water pressure regulators are common in hilly areas to compensate for change in elevation.
Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure!
This is Alaska again. I need to explain further, the pipe in my wall only bangs when the washer is running. But the pipe banging is in the wall behind my toilet on the other side of my house! Can it be fixed without removing part of the wall?
This was cool! Now we need to know final cost of all the bits....nevertheless, the knowledge gleaned was worth any cost!
Its hard to add a price since they are so different everywhere in the world and fluctuate daily. All I can say is it's much cheaper than a plumber!!
Greetings from Alaska! I have a banging pile in the wall behind the toilet. Can you give me advice for the best way to fix it? The pipes run through the ceiling , I have in floor heating. Thank you.
For proper seal always pass the Teflon tape clockwise around your threads. Have a look at some plumbing UA-cam videos on how to apply it properly for best results
You are doing it wrong. Other then that another great video!
I totally messed up that scene! I know the correct direction to wrap it but look what I did!! The best laid plans!!
@@chrisnotap LOL it happens ti all of us :)
The plastic inserts in shark bite fittings are supposed to be removed for rigid pipe. Keep them in for poly/PVC/PEX.
🤜🤛
I went back and read the instructions again and for that it said...... "The PEX stiffener is not required for use with CPVC and copper, however these two types of tubing fit over the PEX stiffener easily and will hold it against the tube stop". So I think Ill be ok. Thanks for mentioning that though.
@@chrisnotap absolutely one of those past life things; us keyboard warriors are full of suck useless trivial information.
🤣
PEX is stiff enough, but recommended to keep it in for some reason (even tho it loosely flops around).
Great tutorial, very creative with the valve setup.
I am having issues with hot water pipes (Copper) making rubbing and tic tic tic noises when caused by expanding because of heat. I have solid copper pipe clamps nailed in the wood joist holding the pipes. Any solution for me?
I had the same bit of noise as you. I located a silicone baking sheet (Betty Crocker) at the Dollar store. The sheet is just less than an 1/8" thick. I cut small rectangles and placed them where the pipe touches the wood and clamped them back down. I used the same copper clamps as you and just used small screws instead of the nails to re-attach.
@@chrisnotap I will try that, thanks for the fast response! :)
Will this pipe banging/hammering in time cause problems with the pipes, such as leaks, etc?
Nice fix, i hope you deburred the pipes because putting freshly cut pipes into a sharkbite can damage the o ring inside of it
Yes I did.
You're a genius. 👍
Occasionally yes. Most of the time, just a regular weener!
👍👍👍Great info. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
The easiest way to solve the hammering by throttling stop valves beside solenoids or beside hand valves.
Did you have some play in your main water line to put the sharkbite pressure reducing valve in and then pull pipes together ?
Yes I did have some play. I removed a pipe bracket to give me the movement.
This is a very interesting video! I wonder a bunch of things though (because I'm a nosey girl). How come my water doesn't make banging sounds? Is it because you have excellent water pressure and I don't? And what if you'd have just used the pressure regulator only? Do you think that would have fixed the issue? You don't have to answer those. I'm always just trying to figure things out. This whole subject is very interesting indeed!
You’re a thinker and yes, you’re right. Would the regulator have solved it…possibly. It’s the order or activities you choose to follow that determines if you look back on your decisions.
I hope you got an expansion tank as well! Water heater will cause a pressure rise and it's most likely code. By installing PRV you eliminated the water expanding back into street main. Its only course is to expand when heated which will cause leaks most likely at water heater safety valve. Best thing to do is get that $12 gauge but follow thru on entire system.
That's correct. If you look in the description, I have a version with a pressure relief valve built into the reducer for that reason.
Now you need an expansion tank. The pressure reducing valve acts like a check valve not allowing water to expand when it's heated.
I also added the link for one with a relief valve for the expansion.
So was it the pressure regulator that solved the problem or the other
Re-adjusting many of the pipe holders and snugging them up helped but the reduction in pressure made the most difference. Be sure to see the note in the description for the pressure reducing valves.
Yyou do not need pressure regulator if you have multiple hummer arrestors around the house. Pressure regulator impedes high water flow if you need it for watering.
pretty clever
Thanks!
now how do you find the loose pipe behind the drywall. its easy when you see all the pipes.
If the noise is bad enough you need to decide for yourself if you want to cut a square out of the drywall and fix it then do a nice patch job with the piece you removed. There are many video on how to repair drywall that would help.
Can you put in the link for the water hammer arrestors? I definitely need a couple of those!
Oh my! Sorry about that! I totally missed adding the link for the arrestors. I’ll have it added later tonight once I get home. Thanks for the heads up!
I have added that link. Thanks again.
The water hammer arrestors solved the problem. Thank you Sir!
I’m curious Chris, didn’t your home already have a regulator?
Our house has never had a regulator.
WOW thats awfully high. Lucky kf we have 45To 50 psi by us.
I have reason to believe this type of hammering it is coming from pump station .However, they should modify and fix a Pulsing Dumpers on Pumps.
My issue is that my CH pipes keep clicking like someone is tapping a spanner on the pipe. This happens when the CH is switched on and the pipes are warming up. And when its switched off and the pipes sre cooling down. I imagine that the copper pipes are expanding and contracting. But every one is hidden away under floor boards!
I know the noise you are talking about. That’s more difficult to solve when the pipes are buried.
Is that a Kenmore HE3 front-load washer?
Yes it is! It's been a pretty good machine. Have you had any issues with yours?
I worked for Sears Canada and sold a ton of them. They were great machines, especially if you got one of the ones that came from Germany.@@chrisnotap
I also worked for Sears Canada a few months shy of 30 years at Sears Auto. Good company. The only improvement I made to the washing machine is I added a small computer fan to the rear vent. This got rid of the musty smell that always emanated from it and stopped most of the mold growth in those gasket-ed areas.
LOL. I had 37.5 glorious years at 1017! Mold was always a problem with the first generations that did not have the heater. The fan is a brilliant idea. Maidtag must have got the idea from you for one of their iterations. HE soap is a must with that generation. @@chrisnotap
@@chrisnotap I worked at 1017 for 37.5 glorious years. Those were great machines, especially if you were one of the luck customers who got one of the first ones that were made in Germany. HE soap is imperative for the non-heating units.
You should pay yourself$300/hour🤩 for this work expertly done
Thanks!
from 1:48 to around 2:24, don't you wish you could work that fast in the real world? lol
Yeah, while your at it add your own water meter to meter what the city is telling you as I did.
An expansion tank would have helped the hammering.
Googling the avg cost for a plumber in the US is 100usd/h. Still thats crazy in sweden its like 65-75usd/h
I googled this part of Canada and It actually said up to 300/hr.!!
@@chrisnotap what the heck! I should move there and change my career 😂
Ok i have a problem. 3 bed house 1 1/2 bath. The bathroom upstairs when i turn on the hot water in the sink it makes a jack hammer sound you can hear it throughout the whole house its loud.. it doesn't do it with the cold water though, i also have a leak / drip in my downstairs 1/2 bath which is located directly under my main bath upstairs. When the wife is in the shower i can hear a DRIP . DRIP .. DRIP... about 5 seconds apart. NOTE. Sometimes i hear it sometimes i dont. So today i went and cut the main valve off. Turned on all faucets and left it that way for 2 hours id say turned it back on and now the hot water faucet isnt doing anything, it spit out at first but then nothing after that. No jack hammer noise though. Thats my problems' im no plumber by any means. I crawled under a trailer once and had to cut a busted pipe cause water was spraying up on the wood floor where the washer was suppose to be and it was making the wood swell up anyway, i crawled under there found the busted area had to cut the pipe and put a new pipe connector pvc connector whatever it is and it was just fine. Problem here is i have no clue how to check my plumbing in my house. I cant afford to call a professional and get raped. Somebody please lay some plumbing knowledge on me and guide me in the right direction. When i had that problem at the trailer this old man helped me out and told me what to look for but had me do it myself and i did, the advice he gave me still sticks with me 20+ years later. He told me always remember this when it comes to plumbing all you need to know is this. Water is wet and 💩 rolls downhill. GOD rest his soul.. GOD please send me a UA-cam plumber angel. 🙏
👍👍
How can I fix water hammer pipes from inside the wall?
If it is really bugging you the best bet is to cut a square one foot hole out and fix it. Use the one foot square again to patch the hole. There are many good videos on patching holes.
Very high water pressure will also ruin showerheads prematurely. Their not built for such high pressure. I had one once that flew apart while I was taking a shower. Flew off and beaned me in the head. 😅
Water pressure way too high to start. I would have orders the steps on backwards order. Start with lower water pressure. Then again the pipe clips are much cheaper to start with.
You're right. But my first step hearing the pipes always knocking was to find where the noise was coming from which lead to the other steps.
Well, I make my pipes sleep with a board betwix them.
!
even 75 is way too high. you should aim for around 60 psi.
I agree! I ended up at 65 psi.
First thing is to test the water pressure at the hose bib closest to the water meter. Second, talk to a local knowledgeable person in your parts like, the old timer at ACE, the person behibd the counter at a independent plumbing supply house, or call the cuty. Don't call a franchise plumbing suppky, its just a person who only deal with business accounts not homeowners unless the honeowner bought something from them. A good person will tell you if the city requires an epansion tank at the water heater, a specific model brand Presure Reducing Valve. Some cities only want Watts and some are moving away from Watts and s certain model. Some cities will state a Relif valve like a simular one found on top of a gas water heater can be used. You might get away at turning the curb stop a quater turn to reduce pressure. Maybe not, but you gotta go out and ask in person or call. Never know what you'll find out. Very knowledgeable people out there who knows the history of your local plumbing. I learned a lot from these guys.. Never ask a person at a big box store. Do the same with electrical.
Great explanation and props for buyuing the supplies for teating and correcting the problem. And thanks for sharing. 😊
You are spot on about who to ask questions, but here in Canada it is getting very difficult to find experienced people to ask those questions too. Another commenter made me aware of the need for an expansion tank along with a pressure reducing valve which I was not aware off but now know I do need one. I did a pressure test over a 72 hour period to see what the pressure got up to and it got as high as 130psi. Do you think a pressure reducing valve with a by-pass valve is best or adding an expansion tank?
@@chrisnotap Test the pressure at the hose bib closest to where the water comes into the house or closest to the meter. Then test the water heater pressure by placing the gauge at the drain valve and open it. Compare the readings for 24 hrs. If the reading is high at the WH then it's Pressure Relief Valve is faulty or going bad. If both readings are high then it's just high water pressure. The expansion tank is needed if your local codes require it. If it's not, don't install one. They've problematic after a few years. It's that internal rubber bladder that goes bad. A bypass service loop at the Pressure Reducer Valve is recommended if you have to service or replace the valve. Lastly I suggest inspecting the toilets fill valves. High pressures can ruin the internal rubber parts. Those fill valves work best around 60 to 80 psi. I'm in the SW part of the states, the plumbing here is different so sorry I can't help you as much. Comment sections.. Love em or hate them, some people are very knowledgeable.
Use a " BACK FLOW PREVENTION DEVICE": One device only . NO electrical fittings required works all day day and night nothing else required unless you like helping your hardware shop. Works on a similar principal to a water hydraulic ram/pump with a spring loaded valve. Loose pipes aren't your problem. I repeat BFPD? Back Flow Prevention Device , you would have saved time and money and no need for a video. I think the plumbing shop saw you coming you got suckered.
A back flow prevention device, if I'm not mistaken, stops water from flowing out of your house back into the main water system. A water backflow prevention device is a device that works to protect potable water from contamination or pollution due to backflow. It's essentially a device that stops water from flowing backward in your pipes. This wouldn't help with my high water pressure and banging pipes.
@@chrisnotap Going by what your reply was the plumbing shop had you tagged from the moment you showed a lot of knowledge, You must have your own plumbing business by now . Good luck and happy spending.
Way way over though. Asks plumber to get the correction.
*Or your water heater is at its end of its life and needs to be replaced.*
I tried some of that and it was my water heater needed replacing.