Awww, thanks! This is why I do the videos. When I started learning, I realized there were tons of videos I need, and my other guys needed, that just didn't exist. So my goal for the next 3-4 years is just to try to make as many videos on as many different types/styles of appliances I can so people can have a good idea of the baiscs.
@@lyndamckinney1287 I ended up re-crimping the burnt end with a new connector as there was enough wire still in tact. Those connectors can be purchased at Home Depot. They're Gardner Bender 1/4 in. Fully Insulated Wire Disconnects in Blue. I used some sandpaper on the heating element spade connector to clean it up. If you wish to buy a new purple wire with both ends pre-crimped, Ben has a link to them in the video description.
Great video! I have a GTD33EASK0WW that is less than 2 years old and no heat. I went through check list, and when I pulled the drum, surprise! The heater element wire was completely burnt and the spade connector was laying in the bottom of the drum. Element tested fine. Attached new wire and made sure connector at element was snug/tight. Works for now.
I really appreciate your videos as a guy whose worked with appliances for a long time i really am grateful for having someone who works both sides of the field the product knowledge/sales and the technician/repair
It's sad how many people here are dealing with a useless GE dryer that is only 1-2 years old. Myself included. First and last GE product for me. Never again. As if the cost of everything isn't high enough, now we have to deal with appliances that last only a year or two when they used to last decades! Planned obsolescence most likely.
Mine was replaced in July and now not heating. It is in an apartment so have a maintenance ticket in since wasn't the purple wire that I was going to repair myself since been several days already without a dryer.
Had a Samsung and was talked into GE at the store and wish I had not because issues with both washer and dryer after just over a year. No issues in almost 5 years with my old Samsung
I know many people have already commented but this deserves ma y more likes. I have a different model GE dryer but this was still very helpful. Same purple wire as others have said. I didn’t get new wire. There was room to cut old one and get new connector instead. Sanded heater side a bit and everything works well. Until I have to repeat it again haha but huge thank you for putting this up and help in us save $
my hotpoint dryer, about 14 months old, no heat....after watching a few videos i figured it was the purple wire. and it was....i was thinking on cutting a hole in the back of dryer to get to the purple wire. i wish i wouldve. i couldve fixed it in no time instead of taking the whole thing apart. thank you for the video!
My dryer is a year old. The purple wire had a burnt spade connector, so I cut and replaced it. Before I reinstalled everything I cut a 2” hole with my hole saw just next to spade connector. In the future I can look thru the back of my dryer and check if the connector burnt again. I’ll be able to replace it about 30 seconds next time, lol
Bought this GE dryer and had it 30 days when it stopped heating. Everything else worked. Took it apart and the purple wire was fried. I tested the heat element and that was bad. Based on the other comments this is a common issue. What's the cause?
Thank you so much for this so instructional steps. My dryer stoped heating after i moved to new house. All elements passed the tests. I will check if there is a drop in the voltage during operation. I appreciate your video
Quick tip, make sure you turn the power off before you ohm anything. When you ohm, you’re setting up your meter to check for the continuity on the wire, if there is any power on, those amps will travel through your meter, lead to lead. Please be careful of this. Always turn power off.
Thank you for making this video! I was able to repair my dryer myself. You made it super easy to do! You should set up a way to send tips for your video help! Bill
OK, sir, very informative video. My dryer was running but not heating. I followed all your steps and it was my purple wire burnt. I repaired it and put everything back together. Now the dryer will only run if I hold down the start button. I checked and double checked the door switch. Holding the start button with one hand and If lightly press the door switch with my other hand the light comes on,, then press is a little further and the dryer starts. So, i am thinking that the door switch is working correctly I did notice that the start button is only closed when you hold it down. I am not very good at 110 / 220 volt systems but pretty good at 12 volt stuff. So, i take it once the motor starts something else keeps the current flowing. I also need to mention that my dryer is only 14 months old and has been used very little. Any ideas on what the problem is now? Thank you
Ok, took it back apart the 4th time. Checked everything again. Put it back together and it worked correctly. It might have been the safety switch on the idler pulley. Man,, thanks again for the video. Very helpful.
Dryer stopped heating. Blower works, drum turns, replaced the mica heater (still no heat), replaced all 3 thermostats (still no heat), purple wire was not burnt but spade did break off when removing the heating pan the second time to change the thermostats (fixed that). Thoroughly cleaned. Tested power, I have 120 (center/right, center/left)/208 (left/right) on a voltage tester. No fuse present. Getting ready to go pick up a multitester to start checking switches. What happens if I find a bad reading on one of the ohm tests in the video? Running out of things to troubleshoot...
List of parts mentioned in video: GE Dryer Timer for GTD42 Units: oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x24550-ge-timer Purple Wire Replacement: bens-appliances.com/products/we49x37037-ge-hotpoint-dryer-heater-wire-repair-kit Our Version (same wire gauge, 1/2 price): bens-appliances.com/products/we49x37037-ba-ge-hotpoint-dryer-repair-kit-by-bens-appliances Heater Assembly: bens-appliances.com/products/we11x21156-ge-dryer-heater-assembly Thermostat for Unit (top of pan, to the right of the 2): oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x25194-ge-thermostat-1 Thermostat (top of pan, to the left of the set of 2): oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x25201-ge-thermostat Blower Housing Thermostat: ifix.gd/3XRlaVn Upper-right pan High Limit Thermostat: ifix.gd/3TAcpfz Bearing Shaft & Bracket Assembly for heater pan: ifix.gd/4guoih8
Man thank you. My dryer wasn’t broken, but the breaker in electric box was unseated a bit (due to turning off power and the box cover missing a screw and breaker moved under the cover a bit). The dryer would turn on and run with no heat. Seated the breaker and all is good again.
Tested power on both sides and got a reading of 246.2, above the 208 to 240 V range. You suggested it could be a cord or breaker issue. Do you recommend replacing the cord or bringing in an electrician. My electrical panel seems to be fine otherwise.
Super appreciative of your vid. We have a GTF45EASJ2WS that I broke down, ended up having that same purple wire/ heating element damage. Burnt to a crisp, looked like my cousin's 4th of july BBQ. 🤮
My stove is acting up and I foresee having to buy a new one. There’s a discrepancy between the setting temperature and the thermometer read out and it beeps when it’s ready just five minutes after the oven is turned on. It’s a Samsung I’ll NEVER purchase again. My budget is fragile. What would you recommend in a glass top stove/oven that is durable and reliable? I know front handles are more expensive but I love that look. Thank you!
Thank you for the video very helpful and informative. I did use the link to buy the purple wire and I made sure to purchase the one that says Ben on the name too so you can get your deserved commission.
Had issues with this for months. At first is was drying after 2 or 3 times. Then 5 or 6. Finally just opened it all up and low and behold a loose wire connection of a heating element. Now it dries like there was never a problem.
Same here the purple wire off and a little burned but not only that wire when I opened the back panel for the controls the yellow wire timer was off as well,I wonder if they do this on purpose or no one checks these terminal wires.
I have a GE clothes dryer that wasn’t heating. After watching the video I realized the purple wire was burnt in to like many other people have stated was wrong with theirs. I replaced the end connector on the wire and the dryer worked perfectly, for one load of clothes then quit heating again. After sending this message I am going to tear the dryer apart again to see if im having the same problem. What causes this wire to burn in to as so many people are having trouble with? Also, can I use a heavier wire to replace the purple wire going to the heating element or would this create a fire hazard? Thanks for any advice.
Why would I need to replace the heater pan? My heater works fine until the wire burns in to. Just replacing the wire with the heavier wire wouldn’t fix the problem? Im not doubting your word I’m just trying to understand what is going on with the unit. Thanks for the help.
@@Randymoore24 the OEM wire as installed on the original system is 14 AWG. The updated one is 12 AWG. You could theoretically go with a 10 AWG if you like, although I'm not sure who sells it. The issue is that if the spade connector on the heater pan has burnt up, the oxidation creates resistance at the point of connection between the wire and heater. The resistance will heat the terminal up over time, causing it to burn up again and again. Absolutely try a thicker gauge wire that can handle it, but I know for a fact that GE has basically begun telling techs to replace pan & wire simultaneously because of how dire this problem is. In about 80-85% of cases, the wire is sufficient, but in the 15-20% of situations, the terminal is too degraded and provides too much resistance to operate properly under use conditions.
@@bensappliancesandjunk i watched your video 5 weeks ago for same problem GE dryer not heating sure enough purple wire was burnt repaired wire and cleaned terminal all good till yesterday no heat again inspected and wire conn is burnt again now im looking for a eliment and harness thanks for the great video
According to some sources, you cannot (should not) perform a Continuity test on a thermistor because they have a high Ohms resistance. Instead, you need to use the ohms setting on the multimeter rather than the simple Continuity test.
Can someone explain why GE gas dryers don’t have a door or a peep sight with a plug in order to view the igniter and the burner??? Any suggestions on how you can see inside cabinet for viewing
With amount of lint maybe a check of the piping would be in order. At a minimum a check of the dryer blower capacity should lead you to clogged piping in the wall another upsell and very necessary for the life of the unit the clothes and light bill.
Thanks your video truly helped me troubleshoot the purple wire was charred at the connector. I plan to change the connector Do you know the root cause of the Problem??? If I remake the connection …. How long until it happens again ?
My understanding is the OEM wire is undersized and the replacement is thicker and can handle the amperage better. AFAIK, it was 14awg and the new replacements are all 12awg.
@@GabrielGarcia-vf8uu I cheaped out and just cut the wire back, and added some wire with a crimp connector and a new female spade end. Make sure that you spend a LOT of time sanding down the spade end on the heater coil to get a shiny finish and good electrical connection or it will burn up again due to high resistance at the connection. You can test by putting a new connector on the spade and putting your meter lead into the rear of the connector and read resistance while moving the connector up and down. If your readings don't jump into the hundreds, then you should be good!
hello i do appliances work and i had a customer that tried to do work on his own dryer and screwed it up more so on that note if you do not feel comfortable working on your appliance please call a tech person
Fixing this for my neighbor, the wire completely melted. Just over a year they have had it, what a shame, planned failures, just like phones and cars. Not all brands. Definitely won’t be reccomend GE to anyone. Funny they charge 30$ for 3 feet of wire too 😂
Sadly, melted wires like this happen in other brands too. Just for some reason the GE is slightly more prevalent. I am working to source the wire factory-direct to try to get the price cheaper. These items even at dealer wholesale are outrageously overpriced, and I am trying to see if we can get the price down to $20 vs. $30-35.
Nah, that can't possibly be a GE dryer - the knobs haven't broken off! :/ I probably need to de-lint mine now that I've seen it's OK to take the drum out.
replacing the motors on these kinda sux. its not horrible horrible, but compared to others, i no likey. When replacing the motor, always order a blower wheel too
There is no panel at the bottom where the electrical cords are on my ge dryer.... You have to take the entire back off or take the front off and take the barrel out to access the electricity... It is absolutely ridiculous I just had to pay someone a lot of money to fix my stupid GE dryer
Ordered GE Dryer Wire Repair Kit (purple) through them and they sent a wire repair kit of Samsung Ice Maker (white). I have tried contacting them for 3 days now through email, online chat and phone and have not gotten a response and no one answers the phone. Terrible!!! I would avoid. If they get back to me, I will revise this comment. I would avoid as there is no one to talk to after you place and order and no direction as to what to do to get their error corrected.
Lol,I am that stage right now ,not knowing anything I took it apart even that shiny metal piece inside the drum and inside was all full of brown loose stuff,anyway after all that when I looked at the back panel on the top of the dryer I found a loose crimp wire that goes to the temperature control which was off because there was no heat,so I guess that was it but I will inspect everything else.
I dont think so,my first time doing this and not much of a problem,everything you buy these days are problems.The only thing we can do is learn to make something better while fixing it if possible.
Disappointed in the beginning of the video. 1st check lint trap yes, clean the screen, very good. Before you mess with anything else, check the breaker box. This should be if not the 1st thing to check, at least the 2nd. There are times where the breaker would get tripped and the dryer will run and do everything BUT heat. Simply locate your box and identify which is the dryer and flip completely off then on. Try the dryer, if it still doesn't heat then move on to next step, which I would also say check the vent house, could be blocked at the back or the hose is kinked not allowing air flow. Likely if that's the issue it's already blown a thermal fuse and would need replaced but easy fix. Lesson, check easy things first
I get to the breaker and electrical chain within the first 1:30 of the video. I say check lint because its literally right there and is physically the easiest thing to check. My videos always go in order of ease of solution. Breaker is always 2nd because the entire electrical->terminal block chain requires moving the unit.
@bensappliancesandjunk your video greatly informative. I did see that you got to the breaker but that was after you pulled the dryer out and took cover off. Before doing that while keeping the simple things done first would be too check breaker.
Great guide. I purchased the wire and it arrived earlier than expected. Installation was easy. Thank you. However, it burned again after only 2 weeks. GE makes garbage products! I will NEVER buy anything from this once great company! Not even their lightbulbs if on sale. Lemon products and deceptive practices.
I have only ever purchased Whirlpool appliances, and have had great reliability. I had to replace one washing machine that had the drum bracket rust away. The Whirlpool dryer is now 17 years old, with only a heating element and high limit cutoff replaced (less than $100 in parts). The Whirlpool dishwasher is about 13 years old, with only minor parts replaced: lower rack, plastic clips, a drain pump and a rubber gasket (maybe $200 in parts).
Yeah my old whirlpool was a lot easier to work on. Two heating elements and one high limit but finally the drum wore out and stuff wax falling out the bottom. Next one was an old used Kenmore whirlpool . its about 25 years old replaced one heating element on it so far.
I called for repairman. None of them showed up so thanks to your UA-cam, I fixed it myself. Thank you so much. You saved me $400.
Ben, thank you for all you do. I am a maintenance tech in training, and you are a far greater teacher than what I’ve received from my peers.
Awww, thanks! This is why I do the videos. When I started learning, I realized there were tons of videos I need, and my other guys needed, that just didn't exist. So my goal for the next 3-4 years is just to try to make as many videos on as many different types/styles of appliances I can so people can have a good idea of the baiscs.
Had a GE dryer that wasn’t heating but it would spin. Ended up being the purple wire. Thank you for the detailed troubleshooting guide!
did you get it running after replacing purple wire? can you tell me by chance where to buy it?
@@lyndamckinney1287 I ended up re-crimping the burnt end with a new connector as there was enough wire still in tact. Those connectors can be purchased at Home Depot. They're Gardner Bender 1/4 in. Fully Insulated Wire Disconnects in Blue. I used some sandpaper on the heating element spade connector to clean it up. If you wish to buy a new purple wire with both ends pre-crimped, Ben has a link to them in the video description.
Same here...just put a new spade on and it works great
I just did the same thing. The real question is why are all these purple wires frying?
What’s the best dryer and washer to buy these days?
Great video! I have a GTD33EASK0WW that is less than 2 years old and no heat. I went through check list, and when I pulled the drum, surprise! The heater element wire was completely burnt and the spade connector was laying in the bottom of the drum. Element tested fine. Attached new wire and made sure connector at element was snug/tight. Works for now.
I really appreciate your videos as a guy whose worked with appliances for a long time i really am grateful for having someone who works both sides of the field the product knowledge/sales and the technician/repair
Appreciate the vid. I bought the purple wire from your company. The Package even came with instructions to install. Very professional and helpful
It's sad how many people here are dealing with a useless GE dryer that is only 1-2 years old. Myself included. First and last GE product for me. Never again. As if the cost of everything isn't high enough, now we have to deal with appliances that last only a year or two when they used to last decades! Planned obsolescence most likely.
I’m doing on 3 years. Heat stopped working. Gotta trouble shoot tonight cause I can’t afford a new one
Mine was replaced in July and now not heating. It is in an apartment so have a maintenance ticket in since wasn't the purple wire that I was going to repair myself since been several days already without a dryer.
Had a Samsung and was talked into GE at the store and wish I had not because issues with both washer and dryer after just over a year. No issues in almost 5 years with my old Samsung
6 months and the dryer us not getting hot
Mine is less than two years old as well I only do max 2 small loads a week & mine stopped heating also.
I know many people have already commented but this deserves ma y more likes. I have a different model GE dryer but this was still very helpful. Same purple wire as others have said. I didn’t get new wire. There was room to cut old one and get new connector instead. Sanded heater side a bit and everything works well. Until I have to repeat it again haha but huge thank you for putting this up and help in us save $
Without a doubt one of the best step by step videos for diagnosing a GE dryer. Thanks so much for the help and info.👍
Agreed!
my hotpoint dryer, about 14 months old, no heat....after watching a few videos i figured it was the purple wire. and it was....i was thinking on cutting a hole in the back of dryer to get to the purple wire. i wish i wouldve. i couldve fixed it in no time instead of taking the whole thing apart. thank you for the video!
My dryer is a year old. The purple wire had a burnt spade connector, so I cut and replaced it. Before I reinstalled everything I cut a 2” hole with my hole saw just next to spade connector. In the future I can look thru the back of my dryer and check if the connector burnt again. I’ll be able to replace it about 30 seconds next time, lol
Nice! I thought of that myself, but I'd get so many angry comments from people suggesting it, but I'm glad you said and did it!
I fixed mine, and it's not heating again. I'm going to buy a new one
@@peteywee318 usually if the wire doesnt fix it and it burns again, the heater pan needs replaced.
Probably the best video of its kind I've seen in years of looking at these. Can't thank you enough for the cllear understandable guidance?
Glad it helped!
By far the best video I have seen on a GE. Thank you!
Bought this GE dryer and had it 30 days when it stopped heating. Everything else worked. Took it apart and the purple wire was fried. I tested the heat element and that was bad. Based on the other comments this is a common issue. What's the cause?
Thank you so much for this so instructional steps.
My dryer stoped heating after i moved to new house. All elements passed the tests. I will check if there is a drop in the voltage during operation.
I appreciate your video
What's next after that I didn't find any wires burnt or any other problems
same here
Quick tip, make sure you turn the power off before you ohm anything. When you ohm, you’re setting up your meter to check for the continuity on the wire, if there is any power on, those amps will travel through your meter, lead to lead. Please be careful of this. Always turn power off.
Thank you, I checked mine and it was the purple wire that was burned and I bought the replacement from your link.
Burnt heating element and wire on my 2-year-old dryer. Thanks for the video and parts.
Thank you! Burnt off purple wire...replaced spade and works great!
Thank you! Absolutely the best and most thorough I've seen this far! You have helped me tremendously
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to produce it....well done, sir.
Good video. I work on all brands for a living. Things are so hit or miss with GE. I just don’t recommend their laundry appliances anymore.
Thank you for making this video! I was able to repair my dryer myself. You made it super easy to do! You should set up a way to send tips for your video help! Bill
OK, sir, very informative video. My dryer was running but not heating. I followed all your steps and it was my purple wire burnt. I repaired it and put everything back together. Now the dryer will only run if I hold down the start button. I checked and double checked the door switch. Holding the start button with one hand and If lightly press the door switch with my other hand the light comes on,, then press is a little further and the dryer starts. So, i am thinking that the door switch is working correctly I did notice that the start button is only closed when you hold it down. I am not very good at 110 / 220 volt systems but pretty good at 12 volt stuff. So, i take it once the motor starts something else keeps the current flowing. I also need to mention that my dryer is only 14 months old and has been used very little. Any ideas on what the problem is now? Thank you
Ok, took it back apart the 4th time. Checked everything again. Put it back together and it worked correctly. It might have been the safety switch on the idler pulley. Man,, thanks again for the video. Very helpful.
A centrifugal switch closes when the motor is at speed, energizing the heating element
Dryer stopped heating. Blower works, drum turns, replaced the mica heater (still no heat), replaced all 3 thermostats (still no heat), purple wire was not burnt but spade did break off when removing the heating pan the second time to change the thermostats (fixed that). Thoroughly cleaned. Tested power, I have 120 (center/right, center/left)/208 (left/right) on a voltage tester. No fuse present. Getting ready to go pick up a multitester to start checking switches. What happens if I find a bad reading on one of the ohm tests in the video? Running out of things to troubleshoot...
List of parts mentioned in video:
GE Dryer Timer for GTD42 Units: oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x24550-ge-timer
Purple Wire Replacement: bens-appliances.com/products/we49x37037-ge-hotpoint-dryer-heater-wire-repair-kit
Our Version (same wire gauge, 1/2 price): bens-appliances.com/products/we49x37037-ba-ge-hotpoint-dryer-repair-kit-by-bens-appliances
Heater Assembly: bens-appliances.com/products/we11x21156-ge-dryer-heater-assembly
Thermostat for Unit (top of pan, to the right of the 2): oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x25194-ge-thermostat-1
Thermostat (top of pan, to the left of the set of 2): oemparts.bens-appliances.com/products/we04x25201-ge-thermostat
Blower Housing Thermostat: ifix.gd/3XRlaVn
Upper-right pan High Limit Thermostat: ifix.gd/3TAcpfz
Bearing Shaft & Bracket Assembly for heater pan: ifix.gd/4guoih8
Man thank you. My dryer wasn’t broken, but the breaker in electric box was unseated a bit (due to turning off power and the box cover missing a screw and breaker moved under the cover a bit). The dryer would turn on and run with no heat. Seated the breaker and all is good again.
What causes the purple wire to burn in the first place?
Tested power on both sides and got a reading of 246.2, above the 208 to 240 V range. You suggested it could be a cord or breaker issue. Do you recommend replacing the cord or bringing in an electrician. My electrical panel seems to be fine otherwise.
246 should be OK it is rare to have the voltage higher, but depending on your houses power, it may be normal. It can handle up to 250v I believe OK
May God richly bless you for this video. You saved me several hundred dollars.😁
Super appreciative of your vid. We have a GTF45EASJ2WS that I broke down, ended up having that same purple wire/ heating element damage. Burnt to a crisp, looked like my cousin's 4th of july BBQ. 🤮
I always just open the door, hold the door switch in and run the dryer and look at the back to see if the heating elements are getting hot or glowing.
My stove is acting up and I foresee having to buy a new one. There’s a discrepancy between the setting temperature and the thermometer read out and it beeps when it’s ready just five minutes after the oven is turned on. It’s a Samsung I’ll NEVER purchase again. My budget is fragile. What would you recommend in a glass top stove/oven that is durable and reliable? I know front handles are more expensive but I love that look. Thank you!
Is there a video replacing the purple wire. Mainly from the plug
Do you have a video on how to replace that purple wire? Mine is fried, but I can’t get the end out that is connected to harness to motor
I do not. But I will see if I can make one soon, as I've had a few people ask
Any recommendations on how to remove the end attached to the harness that connects to the motor?
Is the purple heating element wire standard 12 gauge insulated copper strand?
Thank you for the video very helpful and informative. I did use the link to buy the purple wire and I made sure to purchase the one that says Ben on the name too so you can get your deserved commission.
Had issues with this for months. At first is was drying after 2 or 3 times. Then 5 or 6. Finally just opened it all up and low and behold a loose wire connection of a heating element. Now it dries like there was never a problem.
Same here the purple wire off and a little burned but not only that wire when I opened the back panel for the controls the yellow wire timer was off as well,I wonder if they do this on purpose or no one checks these terminal wires.
I have a GE clothes dryer that wasn’t heating. After watching the video I realized the purple wire was burnt in to like many other people have stated was wrong with theirs. I replaced the end connector on the wire and the dryer worked perfectly, for one load of clothes then quit heating again. After sending this message I am going to tear the dryer apart again to see if im having the same problem. What causes this wire to burn in to as so many people are having trouble with? Also, can I use a heavier wire to replace the purple wire going to the heating element or would this create a fire hazard? Thanks for any advice.
Hi, the replacement wire is heavier than the one in the unit. The only way to fix it is a new heater pan
Why would I need to replace the heater pan? My heater works fine until the wire burns in to. Just replacing the wire with the heavier wire wouldn’t fix the problem? Im not doubting your word I’m just trying to understand what is going on with the unit. Thanks for the help.
@@Randymoore24 the OEM wire as installed on the original system is 14 AWG. The updated one is 12 AWG. You could theoretically go with a 10 AWG if you like, although I'm not sure who sells it.
The issue is that if the spade connector on the heater pan has burnt up, the oxidation creates resistance at the point of connection between the wire and heater. The resistance will heat the terminal up over time, causing it to burn up again and again.
Absolutely try a thicker gauge wire that can handle it, but I know for a fact that GE has basically begun telling techs to replace pan & wire simultaneously because of how dire this problem is. In about 80-85% of cases, the wire is sufficient, but in the 15-20% of situations, the terminal is too degraded and provides too much resistance to operate properly under use conditions.
@@bensappliancesandjunk i watched your video 5 weeks ago for same problem GE dryer not heating sure enough purple wire was burnt repaired wire and cleaned terminal all good till yesterday no heat again inspected and wire conn is burnt again now im looking for a eliment and harness thanks for the great video
Thanks so much for this video! I like many others have a burnt purple wire.
I have that exact dryer, but there is no thermal fuse there. Just a place to put a fuse and fuse holder.
wonderful job on this video! Thank you!
Mine is the lower model and it doesn't have the fuse where this one is located. A two hear appliance shouldn't just stop heating. 🤯
I have found that on that type of dryer, the heating element almost never opens, but the lower right wire will burn up and break.
Yep. I just ordered the wires to keep in stock at our store due to how often this is the issue.
According to some sources, you cannot (should not) perform a Continuity test on a thermistor because they have a high Ohms resistance. Instead, you need to use the ohms setting on the multimeter rather than the simple Continuity test.
What if I get 12.8 when testing the purple wire is that bad and needs replacing
Can someone explain why GE gas dryers don’t have a door or a peep sight with a plug in order to view the igniter and the burner??? Any suggestions on how you can see inside cabinet for viewing
Control knob is the first to check. Knob shaft cracks and you have no idea if you are on a heat cycle. Timer knob failures are high
With amount of lint maybe a check of the piping would be in order. At a minimum a check of the dryer blower capacity should lead you to clogged piping in the wall another upsell and very necessary for the life of the unit the clothes and light bill.
My purple wire burnt off at that connector. Dryer was only 18 months old.
GE sucks no matter how you look at it.
Mine burnt after 24 months.
hi, really a love the content in your video very informative, thanks to it i did fix my dryer really thanks for sharing keep it up.
Great to hear!
Thanks your video truly helped me troubleshoot the purple wire was charred at the connector. I plan to change the connector
Do you know the root cause of the Problem??? If I remake the connection …. How long until it happens again ?
My understanding is the OEM wire is undersized and the replacement is thicker and can handle the amperage better. AFAIK, it was 14awg and the new replacements are all 12awg.
I've noticed you haven't been wearing the Maytag hat lately. Did Maytag complain about it or did you decide a change was needed?
Great video helped me out
Mine had the burned purple wire. Thanks!!!
That's the culprit so often. I'm going to do a video just on that for the next GE I get
Did you Jane to replace the whole wiring harness, or how did you fix it?
@@GabrielGarcia-vf8uu I do have a video on replacing the harness now, FYI
@@GabrielGarcia-vf8uu I cheaped out and just cut the wire back, and added some wire with a crimp connector and a new female spade end. Make sure that you spend a LOT of time sanding down the spade end on the heater coil to get a shiny finish and good electrical connection or it will burn up again due to high resistance at the connection. You can test by putting a new connector on the spade and putting your meter lead into the rear of the connector and read resistance while moving the connector up and down. If your readings don't jump into the hundreds, then you should be good!
hello i do appliances work and i had a customer that tried to do work on his own dryer and screwed it up more so on that note if you do not feel comfortable working on your appliance please call a tech person
where is video on replacing the purple wire to lower right side of heating element back to terminal?
nevermind...found it. Question...is this standard 12 gauge wire?
your driers are much better built than some of the rubbish we have in the uk now
Ouch. I have one of these and it's pretty much the cheapest dryer in the store in the US.
Fixing this for my neighbor, the wire completely melted. Just over a year they have had it, what a shame, planned failures, just like phones and cars. Not all brands. Definitely won’t be reccomend GE to anyone. Funny they charge 30$ for 3 feet of wire too 😂
Sadly, melted wires like this happen in other brands too. Just for some reason the GE is slightly more prevalent. I am working to source the wire factory-direct to try to get the price cheaper. These items even at dealer wholesale are outrageously overpriced, and I am trying to see if we can get the price down to $20 vs. $30-35.
uh oh, did Maytag put the kibosh on the uniform and hat????
My drum outlet thermostat has only two orange wires and they read 0 ohms. Is this correct?
should read 0.00 I believe, yes
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you!
Thank you for the video.
You're welcome
Good information thanks for sharing.
Nah, that can't possibly be a GE dryer - the knobs haven't broken off! :/ I probably need to de-lint mine now that I've seen it's OK to take the drum out.
replacing the motors on these kinda sux. its not horrible horrible, but compared to others, i no likey. When replacing the motor, always order a blower wheel too
Thanks dude
There is no panel at the bottom where the electrical cords are on my ge dryer.... You have to take the entire back off or take the front off and take the barrel out to access the electricity... It is absolutely ridiculous I just had to pay someone a lot of money to fix my stupid GE dryer
where's the uniform/hat 😥
It’s not a Maytag! 😂
I already know who I am and where I work. Uniform not needed.
Move the stupid plastic cover!!!
Love it !! ❤❤
Just took mine apart and the purple wire was melted away
Ordered GE Dryer Wire Repair Kit (purple) through them and they sent a wire repair kit of Samsung Ice Maker (white). I have tried contacting them for 3 days now through email, online chat and phone and have not gotten a response and no one answers the phone. Terrible!!! I would avoid. If they get back to me, I will revise this comment. I would avoid as there is no one to talk to after you place and order and no direction as to what to do to get their error corrected.
Hi, I believe we got your email and responded. The correct item is being air mailed to you today
Thanks
There would be much swearing involved if I attempted this!
Lol,I am that stage right now ,not knowing anything I took it apart even that shiny metal piece inside the drum and inside was all full of brown loose stuff,anyway after all that when I looked at the back panel on the top of the dryer I found a loose crimp wire that goes to the temperature control which was off because there was no heat,so I guess that was it but I will inspect everything else.
Amazing mine was the purple wire burnt
No fuse on mine😅
I did all of this due to no heating. Found nothing wrong so I cleaned it out and put it all back together and now it won't start. Fml
(Ge appliances)..❤..
These new GE dryers are very difficult to repair and not service friendly.
I dont think so,my first time doing this and not much of a problem,everything you buy these days are problems.The only thing we can do is learn to make something better while fixing it if possible.
Disappointed in the beginning of the video. 1st check lint trap yes, clean the screen, very good. Before you mess with anything else, check the breaker box. This should be if not the 1st thing to check, at least the 2nd. There are times where the breaker would get tripped and the dryer will run and do everything BUT heat. Simply locate your box and identify which is the dryer and flip completely off then on. Try the dryer, if it still doesn't heat then move on to next step, which I would also say check the vent house, could be blocked at the back or the hose is kinked not allowing air flow. Likely if that's the issue it's already blown a thermal fuse and would need replaced but easy fix.
Lesson, check easy things first
I get to the breaker and electrical chain within the first 1:30 of the video. I say check lint because its literally right there and is physically the easiest thing to check. My videos always go in order of ease of solution. Breaker is always 2nd because the entire electrical->terminal block chain requires moving the unit.
@bensappliancesandjunk your video greatly informative. I did see that you got to the breaker but that was after you pulled the dryer out and took cover off. Before doing that while keeping the simple things done first would be too check breaker.
Great guide. I purchased the wire and it arrived earlier than expected. Installation was easy. Thank you.
However, it burned again after only 2 weeks. GE makes garbage products!
I will NEVER buy anything from this once great company! Not even their lightbulbs if on sale. Lemon products and deceptive practices.
FYI, if it burns that fast, its the heater pan thats likely been compromised and needs swapped.
These newer GE dryers SUCK! Do not purchase.
GE dryer failed immaturely very fast. Samsung is the second worst. LG may be more reliable.
I have only ever purchased Whirlpool appliances, and have had great reliability. I had to replace one washing machine that had the drum bracket rust away. The Whirlpool dryer is now 17 years old, with only a heating element and high limit cutoff replaced (less than $100 in parts). The Whirlpool dishwasher is about 13 years old, with only minor parts replaced: lower rack, plastic clips, a drain pump and a rubber gasket (maybe $200 in parts).
@@robertjoseph1592 sorry for accidentally dislike - anything before 2010 is better
Yeah my old whirlpool was a lot easier to work on. Two heating elements and one high limit but finally the drum wore out and stuff wax falling out the bottom. Next one was an old used Kenmore whirlpool . its about 25 years old replaced one heating element on it so far.
My ge dryer is only 1 year old. Will not buy another ge
The ads at very beginning are REALLY fucking annoying
No heat at 14 months. GE is very poorly designed & built. Stay with Whirlpool