Volvo Penta SX Bellows and Gimbal Bearing Replacement - Correct Alignment tools are needed
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2019
- Changing my bellows and bearing....and the struggle to complete it because I was trying to save money and not buy the correct alignment tool. Please buy the alignment tool to prevent my issues and possible damage to the new bearing and who knows what else.
I had the exact same problem and know why you were having a problem getting it to go in the last couple inches. You have to remove the zinc on the back of the drive! I spent almost an entire day struggling with the same exact issue. Pulled the zinc off and went on in minutes. Hopefully this helps someone else hitting the same sticking point. When the zinc is on, there is zero wiggle room when you get to the point where you’re just about to get on the bolts but when it’s removed you won’t get hung up nearly as bad (assuming bearing is aligned properly etc)
I'm gonna pin this comment. Thanks.
And how did you remove the Zinc?
There are two zincs on the drive. It's the one that looks like a half-circle that gets in the way. It's just two screws. ua-cam.com/video/HKBqm5PUM7c/v-deo.html
Your Video was by far the best out there for exposing the bellows and doing this job,. A+
And the praise you gave your daughter "Baby Girl" was priceless!! It's obvious you are a very good person, Dad and instructor. I feel so much more comfortable doing this job. Thank-You.
I'm glad another guy has the same philosophy about the specialty tools. I have done too many jobs with this level of frustration (not stopping to eat all day trying to get it done), because of this philosophy. You've just convinced me to break my usual protocol and buy the alignment tool -even though I am selling the boat and it is a one time thing. I'm sure it will improve and extend my life! I just pulled the out-drive off yesterday. It's obviously the first time it's been off in 27 years. Even removing the seized shaft that the rams attach to took me an hour. It didn't glide out. So, I see where this going. It will be a brawl without the alignment tool. You are far more patient than I am. Pretty sure low blood glucose and a beer would have had the 9 lb sledge out. Pretty clever work around though pulsing the engine. Thanks for letting us know what is involved in the job. Much appreciated. The guy I bought the boat off of was great at polishing, but the more difficult maintenance such as this was never done unfortunately.
You’re the DYI father and daughter champ. Way to go, getting the little ones to help. That’s what family is all about. Somethings required more attention than others, great job not giving up. God bless you all.
I have seen conflicting instruction regarding the use of sealer or adhesive on the top bellows. The Volvo Penta shop manual makes no mention of it that I can find. Looking at the bellows and the helmet of the outdrive it appears that the sealing surface is actually between the real surface of the leg nose and the rear flat surface of the bellows and the seal is accomplished bu the tight fit of the bellows against the leg. Any thoughts on this?
I just bought my gimbal bearing and will try to install it next weekend. Thanks for showing all the issues and ideas to get this assembled. Also there have been great informative comments as well. I will add additional comments to your video if I learn anything new during my install.
I'd go over to my channel if I were you.
Excellent video. Very smart helper you had at the end also. Thanks.
This is incredibly spot on. I had the exact same problem. I struggled for hours and hours trying to get the shaft to fit through the bearing. I took the bearing out 3 times to sanity check that it would fit. Turning the motor over combined with the ratchet straps did the trick. Thank you!
Glad I could help out.
thanks for the video buddy. I suggest you buy an engine alignment tool. The engine moves over time so you need to re-adjust the engine mounts so it's perfectly straight. It makes putting the driveshaft back in much easier.
also, if it's not aligned, it will wear out the bearing faster.
@@MinhBui-ni1by
actually it will wear out the coupler faster because it puts it in a bind and will overheat the rubber. Then you get to pull the engine to replace the coupler. THATS why you should always check the alignment!
Thanks for making this video. I'm starting my bellows and bearing replacement project this weekend and will be using this as a reference. Thanks again.
Hope it goes well. I would reccomend getting the alignment tool it will probably make your life far easier in the long run.
also another tip for getting the drive back on...
1) use a drive jack to keep the drive straight and level, start with the Pivot Housing straight up and down...
2) get the longest and skinniest screwdriver you can find. stick it through the ujoints so you can just slightly spin the driveshaft. Then as you guide the driveshaft in, use the screwdriver to carefully line up the splines of the driveshaft with the splines in the coupler. This is how it can get hung up, the splines may not mate up, so if you can turn the driveshaft a tiny bit it will slip right in. I've done this a few times on my OMC Cobra when it fought me and it is a good trick to know...
why would anyone thumbs down this , he's just trying to help the average dude work on their on shit. I dont even have this problem, just seen it in my feed and thought....man...I dont want to do this. Hhahaha thanks for posting bud!
Unbelievable,,,you got it...its not a job for just anyone...need some tools for sure...im just looking at videos right now,,just to find out
How to inspect these bellows without having to open it up..
A big pat on the back from me buddy...thumbs up to you too little girl...perfect home videos with all the b.s. involved just what to except working on it....not a winter time project outside in montana
Dam I’ve been there, this job can make you crazy, thanks for posting
A few suggestions having done it myself on my '88 OMC Cobra....
1) WD 40 is not really a penetrating oil, you will have much better luck with Kano Kroil, Freeze-Off or PB Blaster
2) pick up a can or 2 of OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer, you should use it on all the bolts for the outdrive, it will prevent seizing up due to corrosion.
3) get a tube of OMC/Evinrude Triple guard grease coat the orings with this stuff and also you should coat the splines for the driveshaft with it...No grease on the O-rings on the driveshaft, only motor oil
also, coat the mating surfaces of the drive and the pivot housing with the triple guard, it will prevent alu corrosion from locking it together
4) you MUST use an alignment tool, Sierra makes one and they are all over e-bay, without it this job is a major pain
5) for lining up the drive and sliding it on, I use a very thin long screwdriver that will pass thru the u joints, then I can spin the d/s just a bit, to make the splines line up in the coupler....
Every year you should pull the drive to check the bellows for water. I have found that the OE Cobra/SX bellows will last 10 years, if you can store the boat with the drive down.
Sometimes this job goes easy sometimes it fights you....
15+ years of salt water maintenance...
I use a drive jack like the shops have....when you're over a certain age, will save your back.
Sage advice right here
So I'm going to pull the drive to replace the exhaust bellow. On number 4, you say you must use a alignment tool to pull the drive shaft back in?
Great video!! I love watching when people show a struggle and how they overcome it and especially when they use their own ingenuity instead of buying the 300$ tool. And to be clear I'm not against buying the right tools either but I enjoy the show either way nonetheless. Thank you sir!
Although some people here are correct on the coupler wearing fast. Lol. I do appreciate the way you overcome a problem though.
You can see the distance between the bottom bolts and the angle isn't correct. Still an absolute great video. Glad you got it going again.
Man im glad you did this vid. I had the exact same issue, after 3 hrs of cussing and hammering i was starting to think i was stupid. I had to do this when swapping my engine so i was sure it was a motor alignment issue. I must have done about 100 in and outs of the boat before it went together. Turns out this is normal omc install...humm who would have thought that...friggin engineers!
Hi Buck. I feel your pain. I have the DPS-A drive which is very similar but in some ways even worse to work on.
Wow, what a pain reinstalling the outdrive. Good video
Yea it really threw me for a loop.
Poor alignment..that bearing will go out quickly. The makeshift tool you used is totally inadequate as the alignment is critical. It shouldn't require any artificial force to mate up the out drive. I fabricate and improvise a lot, but the cost of the proper alignment tool in this case is worth it's weight in gold. That misalignment will not go away and will cause the Gimbal bearing to fail prematurely. You will also have most likely have experienced vibration.
Nice job and great video!
when you installed the brg. you need to get a alignment bar in there and square the brg hit at 12-6-3-9 oclock and make sure the engine is aligned also that drive will just go on like butter if the brg is not squared to the coupler then the shaft is not going to go in straight. just make the gimble housing alignment right and you will not fight it ps if you use grease on the 2 orings of the input shaft you can get a hydraulic lock when the input shaft comes into the brg. use light oil it happens on sx and cobra drives is because they have a real tight seal right behind the brg. compared mercrusier i have been working on these since the early 80 s drives go on hard because somthing is not right alls you got to do is make it right a for your effort on taking on the task that most people would not even try
Hey G D are you saying use the alignment tool/bearing installer tool to reinsert the new gimbal? I'm looking into doing this on a duoprop soon and any help is appreciated
@@tyleranderson4608 IF YOU LOOK AT THE BRG. THAT HE PUT IN THE BRG. IS COCKED SO BECAUSE IF YOU DONT PUSH THE ALIGNMENT BAR IN AND SQUARE THE BRG. THE SHAFT IS NOT GOING TO GO INTO THE COUPLER STR. YOU NEED A 3 JAW PULLER TO REMOVE THE BRG THEN CLEAN THE BORE OF THE HOUSING PUT A LITTLE LIGHT GREASE IN THE BORE . GET THE CORRECT TOOL FOR INSTALLING AND MAKE SURE IT IS SEATED ALL THE WAY IN. THE BRG. SHOULD GO IN WITH NOTCHES FACING IN AND THE GREASE HOLE LINED UP AT 3 O CLOCK ONCE THE BRG IS IN PUT ALIGNMENT BAR IN AND MAKE SURE IT IS SEATED AGAINST THE BRG. THEN HIT THE BAR WITH A SOFT MALLET AT 12/6/9/3 O CLOCK THE BAR SHOULD GO IN AND OUT OF COUPLER ON THE BACK END OF ENGINE AND TURN VERY SMOOTH.IF YOU SQUARE THE BRG AND THE BAR IS TIGHT YOU ARE GOING TO PLAY HELL GETTING THE DRIVE ON. IF YOU HAVE TO PULL OUT RATCHET STRAPS OUT TO PUT A DRIVE ON YOU GOT A PROBLEM . JUST FOLLOW PROCEDURE AND DONT SPEND A DOLLER TO SAVE A TIME . RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB. O YA LIKE TELL PEOPLE DONT TRY AND RE ENGINEER THE WHEEL ITS BEEN AROUND FOR AWHILE. THIS VIDEO IS KILLING ME OF THE EFFORT HE WENT THROUGH JUST FOLLOW PROCEDURE
Thanks for posting this man!!!
I did this same job a while back and bought the 40$ alignment rod, come back from college and my parents had thrown it in the trash!!! Even with the rod I had the SAME issue getting it to seat at the end
Thank you for a very helpful video👍
Wonderful video however you need to use the engine alignment tool everytime. The wood piece with tape he used is flimsy and won't be able to help him realign his engine on the mounts. Even though the bearing seems aligned visually there are minor differences in alignment that prevents a nice fit. You need to realign the engine to the bearing everytime. That is why he needed to force it on that way. This might lead to premature wear and/or failure. Otherwise I applaud him for doing this big job and documenting the whole project on video.
I commend your efforts! Any handy man, do it yourself'r has been thru something like this
I appreciate the comment. This project kicked my ass
Very helpful!
Highly recommend replacing the shaft seal ($15) on the motor side of the gimbal before reinstalling a new gimbal.
Yep.
The alignment tool is used to make sure that the engine and transome bearing is aligned properly so the shaft will fit whit no binding, if needed you will have to change or adjust the engine forward mounts to make it slide in whit no effort. an old straight shaft is a perfect tool to use unless you want to invest in a special tool.
Good video, I am going to do this on my Chris Craft 21 concept. I hear a little noise in that area.
I have a Chris Craft 21 Concept, too. 1995 bowrider. Had the local tech replace her bellows and gimbal bearing this past Spring when it came out of storage. No way did I want to deal with it solo.
Lessons learned.
Shaft seal is a must.
PS if there was grease in the grooves for those o rings on the drive shaft, that can cause your problem...NO grease there only motor oil....grease, only on the splines.....
So the U joint bellows just "glues" to the pivot housing? I realize the "front" end of the bellows has a clamp but the pivot housing end of the u joint bellows has no clamp?
Most likely, the inner ring of the new gimbal bearing was not parallel to the outer ring. Always look out for that before installing the new gimbal bearing and than again after it has been inserted. Correct, if necessary, with a proper alignment tool.
all hands on deck 👍👍👍👍👍
oh and you MUST use an alignment tool!
Did you not replace the oil seal?
Cool video, good info. 🤙🏻 Figured it was out of alignment. So, What’s Cobra SX alignment tool part number anyone?
I have the same problem! I can not get mine splined at all!! I don’t know what to do! I have the alignment tool and it looks like it is aligned perfectly from what I can tell!
Well you see how I did it..... not saying it's right but it worked.
wow that was painful to watch....so its been a year....how many hours and how's your coupler?
you should have taken some emery cloth to the shaft and clean it up. the 2 flat O rings on the shaft should have been replaced too.
Hey man what did you use to get the bellow into the lip on the pivot housing? I had a time getting mine on but an hr into it I finally got it. There has to be a better way lol
I just pulled it into place with my hand. It was pretty easy. You are talking about what I did at 13.31 in the video right?
If you had the correct alignment tool, how would you have gotten it any closer that it was? I mean could you even measure or visually see what would be off?
Donkey kick. Works every time
I see someone used the trim to pull the drive in
I think you should have changed the oil seal behind the gimbal bearing too
Nice Video. I need some help, i got the leg off 100%, when i took the pin out for the trim rams, one ram compressed and the other lengthened. I felt to see if i could push and pull and they seem solid, Why has this happened? How do i get them free to move to line them up? Thanks
Use the pump to fully extend them or fully retract them and then you should be able to hook them up.
I'm pretty sure the problem was that the engine and drive were not in line. To get the right line, look at this video ua-cam.com/video/OjPHcl0y8zM/v-deo.html and part 2 ua-cam.com/video/HGQ0d111dLw/v-deo.html
What’s the lower pivot (turn) bearing called on this drive? Thanks
Not sure. sorry.
It looks like your gimbal bearing was getting caught up on those old nasty flat o-rings that typically come with a kit that includes the bellows and gimbal bearings. Those need to be replaced as well. I went ahead and purchased the cheapest alignment tool I could find on ebay. Not only does it help with the process but it is great for home defense purposes as well.
You need alignment bar to set the gimbal bearing
Don't do what he is doing .
@@chrisbrowne4064 Exactly. You need to confirm alignment because engines can creep around and require adjustment of their mounts. Unless and until that is done, no sense in trying to force the vertical drive in.
Heavy z drive removal / installation is due to wrong motor alignment. If the engine is out of alignment you will kill the engine coupler - I damaged it in this way.
Hey man how did you know if the gimble was seized up? Because the wouldn’t turn over?
Honestly I didnt know that it was for sure until I took the outdrive off but the motor would kind of surge and not want to idle evenly.
I’m really surprised with a frozen gimbal bearing you didn’t tear up the drive shaft.
@@TMcD3 yea me too. I think it was tight and not completely ceased
Hi! What is the brand or name of the sealing paste? Thank you very much!
Quicksilver bellows adhesive.
Thank you very much!
Why didn't you do the grease seal too? Is it not necessary? I'm about to do mine,
I don't believe its necessary
Why not replace the seal at same time
How do you disconect the shit cable?
Great video, but with all due respect i think you missunderstood what the 'alignament' is. The tool you made does not serve any scope as the tape is soft exactly where it should be hard and precise. The result of this missalignament is the result where you cannot reinsert the shaft... the tool does the job and aligns the inside of the bearing with the engine coupler so the shaft goes smooth through both of them.
What year is your motor? I looked In comments
96
Nose of the stern drive bouncing on the end of the new bellows...
next episode impeller another bearing driveshaft and worn pilot on flywheel lol been there done that
Just curious how much would this cost at a shop?
I honestly dont know but I would imagine over 700. The parts cost me over 250.
@@bucksgarage1 I paid about $750 earlier this year to have a shop replace the bellows and gimbal bearing.
It’s typically cost 1,000-1,500 at a shop. Not to bad, but the parts “oem” aren’t over 400 dollars if you do it yourself
What does the gimbal bearing do
It supports the drive shaft.
@@bucksgarage1 would that have anything to do with the steering on a boat
@@tristenfletcher577 nope.
Holy Shit, Please do not install your drive like this. If your drive wont slid into place the engine alignment is off. If you force it your gimbal bearing will be shot in 100 hours
Exactly, it should slide in as easy as it slide out.
probably needs an engine alignment
Need not to say, that if not properly aligned, you will ruin both your new transom bearing, your shaft and or your crankshaft bearings
Not buying the alignment tool is engaging in petty economics! They are far cheaper than the four plus hours of your life that's wasted trying to force the leg home. The tool has value beyond just alignment of the gimbal bearing but also the engine itself. If the engine is out of alignment you will kill the engine coupler! After you pay for a new one and possibly a tow bill to get off the water you will likely wish you had spent a few bucks on the right tool. But I'm just an old man who has spent thirty years on the water and working with the machinery involved so what do I know?!
Terrible video. You need to look at the OMC manual because this is not the way you install a sterndrive.
He also installed the bearing backwards, slots go forward towards engine..
Cool video, good info. 🤙🏻 Figured it was out of alignment. So, What’s Cobra SX alignment tool part number anyone?