Ford tech here, 28 years at the same dealer. These are part of a recall on Fusions, may cause the tank to expand, possibly crack and leak. This style is also used on other vehicles in the Ford fleet. If you suspect a bad valve, just replace it. It may test OK now but, next week, next month it will come back and bite you on the ass. I have no doubt that I replaced over 100 of these without a repeat repair.
Just want to say thanks for the videos you provide and the wealth of information you are. Inspired me to purchase my first snap on scanner. Not the Verus but I just got the Modis Edge. So far loving it but haven't tried it's scope out yet.
guys ... am I the only one who believes that this dude is the fuckin best? I just landed a job in a well known AutoShop and Scanner Danner made this be possible... Likes and Subs peeepps...
Great video as always!! The odds of this is that I just got a P0455 code on my 2004 GMC Envoy today and never had any evap codes prior, not even a small evap leak. I ordered a new purge and vent valve for my truck. I've been having problems for the past few months where I fuel up and it shuts down the nozzle from the fuel pressure. I hope this fixes my code and the issue i've been facing when fueling up. I also noticed intermittently that I can smell gas vapor from where the purge valve is located when my truck sits and it doesn't happen all the time.
it's interesting to see this type of purge valve fail in the stuck shut position. I've seen quite a bit fail stuck open, causing false evap leak codes.
Good video! I have a 2010 fusion and i got engine light code P0456. People always say check gas cap but i dont have one. Then they say check purge valve. I got purge valve replaced by ford last year so i thought it was good. I checked it and it wasnt working...hit it lightly with a screw driver and it started working.
I noticed the old and new purge valve both made a fluttering sound when activated. I have a 2006 F250 5.4, the purge valve does not flutter when activated but does have vacuum. Does that mean it is not working correctly? I would have more info but waiting on scan tool to arrive to get data from vehicle. Also, when I disconnect the purge valve line to the tank, the truck will fill with fuel. When the line is connected, it will not fill. I pulled the hose off the vent on the canister and it has some flow but not free flow. Same with canister. I will watch more video's and see if I can figure this out. Maybe clogged charcoal canister? If you have any tips, that would be appreciated. Also has P 171 and 174 codes, lack of power and rough idle intermittently. Again, I am waiting on the used verus to arrive, to get info, but I do know the LTFT was maxed at +25 and the short term was at +15 on both banks, at 1100 RPM when the code set. Didn't know what to look for when I found out that info, so did not run a snap throttle test or full throttle test. I will update when I have the scanner. Not sure if its related but the fuel gauge does not read correctly either. Stops at E or at 1.4 tank and does not raise, seems to go down though. Once fuel light came on, I added 10 gallons and gauge did not raise.
It would be nice to know what your FTP Sensor is reading when the duty cycle is up but the Purge wont open. Im dealing with an issue where my FTP Sensor reads Positive pressure during a Purge and seal test. When I do hit SEAL, the engine stalls. I have a P0455 code too. Im now thinking that my purge might be sticking hence the positive pressure and when I do hit seal, it might un stick, forcing alot of vapors into the engine- thus the stall. Hmm?
Good day sir....can i ask a question....my battery light is lighting sir...i just changed my alternator a new one and its the same problem....my car sir is ford fusion
Hello Sir,, Do you know if the ford KOEO output state test (this is for an older car,a 96) will activate the purge valve? I know it activates things like the fuel pump and egr. Thanks
Hey Dan I got a purge valve no flow. If I took the purge valve off and gave it direct 12v and ground off the battery it should click right? Are any purge valves run off of 5v? Cause I'm getting 4.3v on the power side and 12v on the pcm ground side. So odd. Its a 05 kia sportage 2.7L if that helps.
could this cause the car not to start I remember while back my car didn't want to start and I took the pruge vavle off and put it back and started no problem but now it won't t even start cranks but no start I even changed the fuel pump thinking it was that since I just filled it up any idea what is causing my car not to start ?
Very helpful video as always! One question, on your description you have a link to the Autel MaxiSYS MS908 scanner, is that scammer worth buying and does it have a scope like the snapon ones you use?
Juan Rodriguez I own both the Maxsys mini and a Snap On Verus Edge, the Autel is definitely a good Scan tool, no scope attached, they do offer a crappy scope module as an add on, not recommended but a mediocre scope is better than no scope
Great Video. If there is no check engine light or fuel smell. Will a faulty purge valve cause rough or shaking idle of the engine on cold starts? Once it's warmed up the car is fine. It's a 4 cylinder with 2 pre-cat O2 sensors. I noticed the fuel trim for Bank 1 at idle is +18% and on load +5%. Bank 2 at idle +5% and on load -12%. I changed plugs, coils, cleaned everything, checked for vacuum leaks. No luck. Any ideas? Thank you.
@@ScannerDanner Gotcha... Found out mine is in the back of the car. Jack it up, slide under the back toward the rear axle and you'll see the canister thingamjig with the valve mounted on the axle side of it. It looks different though. It isn't held on by bolts. Pull the 2 hoses off (no clamps, just pull), disconnect the electrical connector by pushing down on the top of the connector while pulling (hard to get big hands in there, but you'll get it), then the valve is mounted on a 'rail'. Gentle taps on the valve upward broke the rust loose and the valve lifted up and off the rail pretty easy. Your test worked great. I needed a new valve. Just ordered it on PartsGeek. Thanks for the video though, because the test is the same regardless of what the valve looks like!
I was working on a Honda that didn't support bidirectional control of egr solenoid. I am guessing it is PWM controlled, so I was nervous applying full battery voltage, 100% duty, for an extended period while testing it. How would you test it? Could I really get it to reach the conditioning in my driveway for the PCM to send it a command? I'm assuming this is what you will say, but do you have any other tricks up your sleeve? I have seen you drum beat a component, but that was usually for circuit integrity testing. I guess my real question is how you would control an actuator that is PWM controlled without the use of a bidirectional scantool? I am a premium subscriber.
Hey Paul. I have a question for you regarding my car. I have a 2011 Mercury Milan with the 2.5L. This past week my car has been having rough starts after sitting over night. In the morning I will go out to start my car and it will need to crank over a few more time than normal in order to start. When it does start it runs unbelievably rough! It usually stalls within 5 seconds. I'll start it again and I will get the same result. But, by the 3rd time I start the car everything is running buttery smooth! It never throws a code or anything and I can start the car just fine for the rest of the day. Any ideas where I should start to try fix the issue?
Ford tech here, 28 years at the same dealer. These are part of a recall on Fusions, may cause the tank to expand, possibly crack and leak. This style is also used on other vehicles in the Ford fleet. If you suspect a bad valve, just replace it. It may test OK now but, next week, next month it will come back and bite you on the ass. I have no doubt that I replaced over 100 of these without a repeat repair.
Thanks for the additional insight!
Just want to say thanks for the videos you provide and the wealth of information you are. Inspired me to purchase my first snap on scanner. Not the Verus but I just got the Modis Edge. So far loving it but haven't tried it's scope out yet.
Awesome! You won't be disappointed
all 80k students appreciate your vids
guys ... am I the only one who believes that this dude is the fuckin best? I just landed a job in a well known AutoShop and Scanner Danner made this be possible... Likes and Subs peeepps...
Great video as always!! The odds of this is that I just got a P0455 code on my 2004 GMC Envoy today and never had any evap codes prior, not even a small evap leak. I ordered a new purge and vent valve for my truck. I've been having problems for the past few months where I fuel up and it shuts down the nozzle from the fuel pressure. I hope this fixes my code and the issue i've been facing when fueling up. I also noticed intermittently that I can smell gas vapor from where the purge valve is located when my truck sits and it doesn't happen all the time.
Purge valve on those vehicles are recalled, usually sticks open causing excessive vacuum and in extreme cases cracks fuel tank.
it's interesting to see this type of purge valve fail in the stuck shut position. I've seen quite a bit fail stuck open, causing false evap leak codes.
I have learned so much from your videos , thank you
Hey Danner keep up the great work your a wealth of information.Thanks and keep doing what your doing.Kyle
Thank you Kyle
Good video! I have a 2010 fusion and i got engine light code P0456. People always say check gas cap but i dont have one. Then they say check purge valve. I got purge valve replaced by ford last year so i thought it was good. I checked it and it wasnt working...hit it lightly with a screw driver and it started working.
That leaf on top of the throttle body was the star of the diag video hahahhahah was even used towards the end lol
I noticed the old and new purge valve both made a fluttering sound when activated. I have a 2006 F250 5.4, the purge valve does not flutter when activated but does have vacuum. Does that mean it is not working correctly? I would have more info but waiting on scan tool to arrive to get data from vehicle. Also, when I disconnect the purge valve line to the tank, the truck will fill with fuel. When the line is connected, it will not fill. I pulled the hose off the vent on the canister and it has some flow but not free flow. Same with canister. I will watch more video's and see if I can figure this out. Maybe clogged charcoal canister?
If you have any tips, that would be appreciated. Also has P 171 and 174 codes, lack of power and rough idle intermittently. Again, I am waiting on the used verus to arrive, to get info, but I do know the LTFT was maxed at +25 and the short term was at +15 on both banks, at 1100 RPM when the code set. Didn't know what to look for when I found out that info, so did not run a snap throttle test or full throttle test. I will update when I have the scanner.
Not sure if its related but the fuel gauge does not read correctly either. Stops at E or at 1.4 tank and does not raise, seems to go down though. Once fuel light came on, I added 10 gallons and gauge did not raise.
fixed Mine by doing what you said to do. thanks a million
The oak leaf test! Another tool to add to my arsenal. ;)
Amazing how these components can't even make it much past the 5-year mark. Sad, actually ...
Fixed and on to the next problem.....they never end....
It would be nice to know what your FTP Sensor is reading when the duty cycle is up but the Purge wont open. Im dealing with an issue where my FTP Sensor reads Positive pressure during a Purge and seal test. When I do hit SEAL, the engine stalls. I have a P0455 code too. Im now thinking that my purge might be sticking hence the positive pressure and when I do hit seal, it might un stick, forcing alot of vapors into the engine- thus the stall. Hmm?
Good day sir....can i ask a question....my battery light is lighting sir...i just changed my alternator a new one and its the same problem....my car sir is ford fusion
Thanks
Hello Sir,,
Do you know if the ford KOEO output state test (this is for an older car,a 96) will activate the purge valve? I know it activates things like the fuel pump and egr.
Thanks
Thank you very helpful😊😊
Hey Dan I got a purge valve no flow. If I took the purge valve off and gave it direct 12v and ground off the battery it should click right? Are any purge valves run off of 5v? Cause I'm getting 4.3v on the power side and 12v on the pcm ground side. So odd. Its a 05 kia sportage 2.7L if that helps.
could this cause the car not to start I remember while back my car didn't want to start and I took the pruge vavle off and put it back and started no problem but now it won't t even start cranks but no start I even changed the fuel pump thinking it was that since I just filled it up any idea what is causing my car not to start ?
ahhh the ol leaf to the purge valve test lol
In lieu of using a test light for that test, a logic probe could be used also, right?
or is it spanner hammer Danner..... one of those any way - graet vid as usual !!!!
Hey what scanner you recommend for regularly checking codes on personal vehicles?
Very helpful video as always!
One question, on your description you have a link to the Autel MaxiSYS MS908 scanner, is that scammer worth buying and does it have a scope like the snapon ones you use?
Juan Rodriguez I own both the Maxsys mini and a Snap On Verus Edge, the Autel is definitely a good Scan tool, no scope attached, they do offer a crappy scope module as an add on, not recommended but a mediocre scope is better than no scope
love those 2.5 duratecs timing chains or bust
That was a fun test.
Great Video. If there is no check engine light or fuel smell. Will a faulty purge valve cause rough or shaking idle of the engine on cold starts? Once it's warmed up the car is fine. It's a 4 cylinder with 2 pre-cat O2 sensors. I noticed the fuel trim for Bank 1 at idle is +18% and on load +5%. Bank 2 at idle +5% and on load -12%. I changed plugs, coils, cleaned everything, checked for vacuum leaks. No luck. Any ideas? Thank you.
Thats typically an intake gasket leak. Next cold start spray some water or ether around it. It seals up when warm.
That is actually a very good idea. Never thought about that. Thank you very much.
I have a 3.5L in my 2011 Fusion and it looks nothing like the one you're working on. Can't find that valve anywhere.
this is a 4 cylinder turbo engine in this one. Your 3.5 is a V6
@@ScannerDanner Gotcha... Found out mine is in the back of the car. Jack it up, slide under the back toward the rear axle and you'll see the canister thingamjig with the valve mounted on the axle side of it. It looks different though. It isn't held on by bolts. Pull the 2 hoses off (no clamps, just pull), disconnect the electrical connector by pushing down on the top of the connector while pulling (hard to get big hands in there, but you'll get it), then the valve is mounted on a 'rail'. Gentle taps on the valve upward broke the rust loose and the valve lifted up and off the rail pretty easy. Your test worked great. I needed a new valve. Just ordered it on PartsGeek. Thanks for the video though, because the test is the same regardless of what the valve looks like!
A very good vid my friend.
how is the jeep?
I was working on a Honda that didn't support bidirectional control of egr solenoid. I am guessing it is PWM controlled, so I was nervous applying full battery voltage, 100% duty, for an extended period while testing it. How would you test it? Could I really get it to reach the conditioning in my driveway for the PCM to send it a command? I'm assuming this is what you will say, but do you have any other tricks up your sleeve? I have seen you drum beat a component, but that was usually for circuit integrity testing.
I guess my real question is how you would control an actuator that is PWM controlled without the use of a bidirectional scantool?
I am a premium subscriber.
GeekDIYMechanic you can use a test light to battery positive. remeber a 100% duty cycle is 12v
Nice ! With speed like that, who needs air tools ! LOL !
Hey Paul. I have a question for you regarding my car. I have a 2011 Mercury Milan with the 2.5L. This past week my car has been having rough starts after sitting over night. In the morning I will go out to start my car and it will need to crank over a few more time than normal in order to start. When it does start it runs unbelievably rough! It usually stalls within 5 seconds. I'll start it again and I will get the same result. But, by the 3rd time I start the car everything is running buttery smooth! It never throws a code or anything and I can start the car just fine for the rest of the day. Any ideas where I should start to try fix the issue?
Is this a GDI engine?
It's the 2.5L duratec i-4 engine. I can't find anything that says gasoline direct injection.
@scannerdanner what led you directly to the purge valve instead of say, a smoke test?
I would guess because it is the easiest thing to test as it is right there.
Ford just extended the warranties on these to 10y/150k, and a PCM update to go with it
Is that leaf annoying anyone else? It’s mocking me!
lol it was mocking me in the edits too haha, sorry
get back to work on the broadi jeep
ha ha spanner danner hammer