I find a lot of crimp on connectors at my work (industrial electrician) exactly like that wire. Had a broken wire inside a muli-connector wiring harness today from flexing--wire problems can really suck to track down. Thanks for the video, nice
Great thanks, HHR, I just put a new valve in that had failed went for a test drive light on again, same code, watched this video, checked harness exactly the same broken wire and exactly the same place, great video, thanks again.
I'm not here for the DIY crowd. Sorry. Get a scan tool that can turn a driver on and off, otherwise you need to meet the conditions for the ECM to turn that driver on. In the case of an EVAP vent solenoid, the only time the ECM will turn that solenoid on is during the leak detection test! Good luck getting an ECM to run that test for you while you have test equipment set up.
Thanks bro you're the only video on the Web I found that has fixed my problem I Replaced the silanoid twice only to dig deeper and my wire broke in the same place you saved me a few hundred I'm sure thanks
After replacing a good evaporate solenoid & the other solenoid at engine, I finally went with a new plug which was an oddball from the standard plug which comes with the new harness. All set now Thanks:)
Loved the video! However, I took your wire repair one step further... I used the "new" adapter lead, which was about 5" long, and just cut the (old style) adapter ends off, then SOLDERED the ends together and used a marine-grade, sealing shrink tubing to protect the wire. Moisture is what was screwing up that connection and eventually eroded the wires. Basically, remove both old-style ends from the OE harness (male) and the adapter harness (female) , and solder the wires together. (crimped butt splices are for the hacks at UHaul when they are installing hitch wires...lol)
Huugeeee thank youuu! Is cold tonight but notice green dust on the white wire!!! And finally i cleared the code and now the remote stater works! Fixed! I have to comeback and say thank you!!! God bless you...happy Hollidays!
Shalom my brother, hope everything is great over there. This video gave me the right tools to take on my mom's 02 Suzuki Vitara with the same code. Thanks Paul, as always your a blessing to us shade tree mechanics.
Nice catch there! If that were me, I'd have spent 3 hours checking all the wiring only to find that at the very end, LOL! :D I just discovered those heat shrink butt connectors about 5 years ago - best thing I ever started using, especially on trailers that get run through the salt, and then parked outside over dirt for an extended period. Could never go more than a month without having lighting and electric brake problems. Using those connectors, my stuff has lasted years, so I now use them on anything that is brought here for repair. My only 2 issues have been the sub-par torches I find for shrinking them - they're either too small and take forever to melt, (and then break after only a few months of use, or fail to light in temps below 40°) or they're too big and turn everything black if I'm not careful. Other issue is the automatic strippers I've been using for years - none seem to last more than a few years before the tension just lets up on them. I find those to be the fastest way (for me at least) to strip wires, so long as the thing stays within reach. :)
As I was watching I was wondering why you didn't use a different coloured wire to fix that pigtail...and if you were going to use a sealant on the end. Nice to see these were addressed. I do as another commenter said - when in the wrecking yard I pick up the various pigtails.... they don't charge for them usually. They are good for testing solenoids as well as replacing broken harnesses. I am not a fan of piercing wires because I live in Canada and they salt the crap out of the roads so corrosion in wiring is a problem. Anyways - always like your videos..
Nicely done, I've been looking for a good demonstration of what to do when the broken wire is close to the connector. It's too bad they don't standardize and sell the metal inserts. They all seem to be similar, but you need an exact match unless you decide to replace the whole connector.
THANKYOU!!! Finally a useful Video .... this should be the exact same thing on a 07 cobalt ss .... wire is probably ran differently but its the same process! 2 year old video helping me out!
Thanks for this information! Gonna check the wiring on my pontiac g6 and look for breaks tomorrow since i've already changed the solenoid and gas cap and the stupid codes still there.
GameTimeIzSiK have the same thing happening to me! Replaced multiple parts that were probably good and it was just a wire lmao gonna have to check it out tomorrow for sure
In my mind I think I know what I am doing and I Am fairly intelligent ... but there's so much to all of this... I did what u said and u are correct it's the harness I actually was about to ripe the seat out because there a harness under driver side seat... I pulled out the pcm and checked the wires lol
Those weather pack connector terminals can be bought for dirt cheap on Mouser.com. I keep a variety of them for working and doing mods on my GMC Sierra. I usually get the weather pack part number from my factory service manual and then type that number in to Mouser.com search. Then I just order a dozen or so and keep them on hand. Many of the plastic connectors and locks are available too. Much cheaper than buying replacement pigtails and no need for a butt splice.
I save connectors and harnesses off of vehicles and just make up a new pig tail by removing a terminal from a used connector. Remove terminal end from old connector and replace is quicker for me in a shop setting..
gotta love that color of green lol. all it takes is a minor defect in that insulation to let the magic of chemistry do its thing. im willing to bet that insulation was no longer pliable like it was when it was new.
On this model and this solenoid. That white wire is a switched ground. Meaning it is not always grounded. With the circuit is off, power will come into the pink or red wire and then wrap around the solenoid winding and will come out the white wire looking for a ground. Without a ground, there is no current flow, so there is no voltage drop, so you will read 12v on the white wire too! Make sense? So 12 and 12 if measuring with a voltmeter (circuit off) and 12 and 0 circuit on.
@@ScannerDanner Mr. I am just wondering did you do any case studies that you are trying to find whether a wire broken from PCM to fuse box or bad PCM ? Thank you
Great video i am working on 2011 Acura MDX it have a misfire on 2 and 6 but if you start it up it will run with no misfire for 35 seconds and then misfire on 2and 6 the customer replaces all of the Coil pack and all for the spark plugs
I know flexing and movement can cause an inside break like that, but how does the moisture get inside the insolation? Does it work its way back from inside the connector? Ive found the same issue before, I'm just curious where it actually originates from.
25:55 can you elaborate a little more? Does it matter if I accidentally reversed the wires when putting them back on and installed it ? Because I honest to God did and weird oddly enough it's not check engine light or anything showing on obdII screen ?
@@ScannerDanner thank you so much man! You know it's so weird it didn't work but I tried fitting it back in only to find out I pushed it would only go in the facing the other way and literally it solved the entire problem like I can believe this lol 🤣 thank you!!!!
@@ScannerDanner btw. Seriously though, this entire video I saved my 'Monte Carlo 2007 V8 SS' I can't find a video that has any better experience and advice on this kind of topic keep killing these video's dude!
thank you so much for your response, I just to do it, unplugged from solenoid results are (truck powe on) on connector 12v between them (2 cables), respect to GND (top/front view) left 12v, right 0v, with connector plugged to solenoid 0v between 2 cables, and respect to gnd 0v on both, also I connected a bulbe light of 12v directly to connector and did not turn on the light, I don't know if I need to use some diagnostic tool like you for enable the output for solenoid and that way can observe the power on on bulbe too, I'd like tell you something about the failure, when truck is running about 50 miles (at 1.5k rpm) feels like needs more power, but once that comes to 2k rpm truck runs ok, at autozone I got the following codes at beginning P0300 and after fix damaged hoses I got P0457 and P0446, also to this I replaced gas cap, due this error is showed too, Just I want to have an idea of what could be causing this... because 2 previous mounths truck was working ok thank you and best regards
It would help me in the future to stay within the thread. I believe we are testing the vent solenoid. Also you are now describing multiple problems so let's address one at a time. Now to the vent solenoid. You have a voltage drop problem on the supply side (pink wire on a GM). Pull on the wire near the connector. Don't be afraid to pull pretty hard. I'm willing to bet the wire pulls apart right where your green corrosion is. And if it is not right at the connector, do a real good visual inspection of the harness and look for contact points.
Okay found the original post. It's a Dodge. The numbers you gave me could be completely normal and what you are seeing is a bias voltage on the control side of a power side switched solenoid. At this point I need to to post this to my forum. Hope to see you there. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Hey Paul could you do a video on when or why you would need to look at "Not Run or Failed since Codes Cleared" and "Not Run or Failed This Ignition Cycle" and also on fords I cant remember what it says but there are several options to pick from when you go to read the codes. Any time I looked at the first 2 options there were usually a ton of codes. Thanks
my issue is this. i had 12 volts on the red power wire and 0 volts on the white control wire, whether the vent valve is commanded on or off. nothing changed on the wires. so i pulled on the white one and it broke up in the other side of the harness that goes underneath the rear seat. i took out the back seat and the trim/weatherstripping for the passenger rear door and found that harness where the white wire broke. i rewired the white wire and checked voltage again at the connector and no change.
Solenoid winding is open. Take a test light to battery positive and touch on that white control wire and then commend the solenoid on. Test light will light if the driver and control wire are good.
Thanks for the video. I wish my problem was the white wire. My 08 Saturn Vue XR has no feed power at solenoid. It does show power at fuse for escm. Having trouble tracking wire from fuse block to solenoid. Any tips?
Check the wire about an inch from the evap solenoid connector. Tug on it. They will break inside of the insulation and it will look fine. It will be real stretchy and will pull apart
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve inspected it thoroughly and don’t see a break. I’ll keep trying. Hope that is it because it looks like there is a connector above fuel tank that is not easily accessible. Can’t seem to figure out how that wire routes from the fuse box. Appreciate the help. I’ll let you know what I find.
Only if the solenoid shorted out electrically and blew a fuse that is shared with other circuits. Other than that, no, this vent solenoid will not cause a no crank condition.
I made a cord with a toggle switch and fuse. I'm able to turn the solenoid off.....I don't have a good code reader to turn stuff off. Thought I'd mention this incase other people don't have a scanner that turns it off. I had to buy a plug connector for my solenoid which was around 8 bucks to do this
I got a 2007 Yukon XL, I was getting p0449 code, replaced the EVAP vent, cleaned out the charcoal canister, only to find out I have something wonky going on with the wiring. I tried checking for breaks at connector, didn't see any, I will be checking again, but it seems like when the solenoid is plugged in in stays closed all the time, even when the SUV is off. And drains battery within few days, hard to fill gas. I've unplugged it for now, which keeps the solenoid open and I can fill gas. But that's not proper fix. Would you think it's a wire break or could it possibly be harness (ground) rubbing on the frame? Usually people have issue that it doesn't click. Mine clicks once you plug it in and stays closed all the time. Just wondering if you encountered this before, seems to be a bit different from what most people are running into.
Senor dan do you have a hard copy of troubleshooting steps for diagnosing different evap codes . I cleared po442,po456,,but no luck on po448 I don't know where to start . I recently purchased a pwer probe kit and an evap smoke machine. I'm trying to learn the basics on electrical troubleshooting but keep getting lost. Saludos
Hi. Can you tell me where that wire leads? I have short, but not at the connector on that end apparently. Maybe it’s near a connector on the other end?
with the connector unplugged from the solenoid, i'm getting 12 volts for the power wire and 0 volts on the ground. What does this indicate? I was expecting 12 volts at the ground as well based on your video. Currently stuck on a p0455 code after many attempts at a fix (new gas cap, vent solenoid, purge valve, canister). Also smoke test ran with no leaks detected
It should be zero volts unplugged on the control wire unless there is a bias voltage being used. The P0455 is a large leak code. There should be no issues finding a large leak. Can you close the vent solenoid when you do the smoke test? This is what you should be doing. Let me know
ScannerDanner My mechanic could not find a leak with a smoke test He was intermittently able to close the vent with a snap on tool, it would freeze on him. He tried different snap on tool, same results. Bought new solenoid, same results He referred me to Chevy dealer, thinks it’s pcm
Hey, I don’t have a harness on my wires at all. I bought the entire solenoid set, but the other side of the connector can’t connect to anything because there is not even a connecter for the wires. You or anyone know where i could get the connector piece? I hope it’s as easy as just sticking the wires through it… i shouldn’t have to do All the burning and stuff since i don’t have a connector right? Or instead of connector, could i like twist the wires together to establish connection?
would you still get continuity on end to end of that harness with that wire in the condition it was? I have a code 440 it just says "evap system" and that is it. I've checked with digital multimeter and harnesses and voltages all good. I've replace vent valve, purge solenoid, gas cap, pressure sensor and still light keeps coming back on. Takes about 50 miles. New wire harness for pressure sensor. Tested those wires with doing the jumper method. Got 5v on reference, zero on ground, 1.4v on signal wire. The voltage on pressure sensor does not fluctuate though. It seems locked on that reading with car on or off doesn't matter. Vent valve i get 12v backprobing both wires with key on but the harness is good end to end continuity. Had a garage put on their scanner and he said bad pressure sensor. he didn't show me so im suspicious since it's brand new and i'm getting 1.4 on my meter.
I prefer the voltage measurements over resistance. To confirm the vent solenoid wiring. Measure the control wire voltage right at the PCM. It should read 12v there too.
Hi, I'm getting a PO449 error code, It is saying Evaporative Emission Vent Valve Solenoid Malfunction. I had a new one put in my car and I'm still getting the same error code. I had an electrician look at it and he said that there is a problem with the wiring harness. He said that it is not getting the voltage it needs. My question to you is do you think the problem could be a loose wire connection, the same as in this your video?
Im curious but is there a way to replace that connector instead of repairing it. I can see on my vehicle that wire goes through the wheel well and from there i cant see where it leads too.
Hey Scanner, pulled the fuse box and I ran a new wire from the terminal to the purge valve solenoid. I have 12 volts at the end of the wire. Only problem is I have 12 volts all the time. Even WITHOUT the key in the ignition. The key isn't even in the truck. Should it be like that? If not do you know what's going on? THANK YOU GREATLY IN ADVANCE FOR ANY OF YOUR TIME AND HELP! IT'S MORE THEN GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!
As long as it is fuse protected you should be okay. That circuit isn't active with the key off anyway. I would still rather see an ignition feed being used though
@@ScannerDanner well I have it back together, I no longer have any evap codes but fuse 26 is hot all the time and when I went to start the truck the battery was dead. The battery is only 2 months old. I jumped it and it started all day. But when it sat again for 7-8 hours the battery was dead again. Do you have a clue what is going on or what I could do?
@@ScannerDanner but I'm using the factory wire at fuse 26. Are you telling me to just pull fuse 26 and use another wire for the purge solenoid? If I use another wire then what was used at the factory will my check engine light still stay off?
Hi Paul, any word on the possibility of air conditioning lessons as you were thinking when repairing your previous Jeeps AC. Would be good. Mike from down under.
Great video. I've never really been a fan of the Power Probe. I can get the same results with a length of ethernet cable or speaker wire and a DVOM. Just run the wire from the battery to wherever you need to be on the car. The Driver Test on the PP is basically a rip off on a LoadPro (showing the voltage drop across an internal load). Just sayin'...
Pet Rock's Garage power probe has proved handy for me, solid ground like Dan mentioned, built in light, instant access to power and ground when needed, battery voltage always present, and more?! These features are nice to have when your laying under a rust bucket down in the dirt.
I didn't say it wasn't useful. I was just saying that you can get the same results with a length of ethernet cable or speaker wire and a DVOM. Actually better since even a cheap DVOM will likely have a better resolution, precision & repeatability. I particularly like ethernet cable because the thin wires can be inserted into connectors without spreading the pins/contacts.
Hey man. So we have an 06 scion xb in the shop with a U0100 and a couple other codes. It keeps randomly dying. No special circumstances really when it happens. We've been riding around testing various inputs with a Pico seeing if anything drops out and can't really find anything. One strange thing to me is all the 12V inputs have multiple spikes. This doesn't seem normal to me but maybe I'm wrong. The other guy seems to think it is. Any chance I could maybe get your input?
Can I disconnect the solenoid and use a test light in it's place and command that circuit on with a scanner and watch for my light to light up? Absolutely. Just do a quick amperage measurement of your test light. Make sure it is under 300 ma and you'll be fine for all solenoids.
Hey I just discovered your channel and your pretty bad ass. I saw your video about the Honda pgm-fi relay a few years ago. I'm trying to diagnose my car but there are some weird things going on. when the key turns to fuel pump, the pump stays priming and the injectors pulse. any idea?
Not totally sure, but you can find most tools I am using on my tool page of my website where I have an affiliate with AESwave and Amazon www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html
Scanner PLEASE help me if you have time!!!! I have a 2006 Chevy trailblazer 4.2. I have no power at the solenoid connector. I cut up from the connector 2 inches to put a new pigtail on. I stripped the wire to prepare for the connection but I have no power at either wire still. Could you please tell me what you recommend I do next? I only have a Innova 3140 so please bare with me. Thank you so much in advance for any time you could spare for me!!!!!!!! Codes are p0443, p0449. Solenoid and vent valve both replaced with gm parts. I have power at the rear vent valve.
@@ScannerDanner wow THANKS SO MUCH for the quick response! I honestly appreciate it. Sorry if I didn't explain it right. The problem I'm having is the solenoid connector under the hood, I have no power to either connector wire. Or any power 2 inches from the connector were I cut to put the new pigtail on. I do have power to the vent valve by the gas tank. Not 12 volts but I think that is from having a horrible ground back there, but both wires by the gas tank I was getting at least something. I'm not getting nothing from the wires under the hood. I have good power at the fuse. Sorry I also have a C0110. Not sure if that is related but I think that's a connection issue also.
@@ScannerDanner UPDATE!!! there are 2 wire that go to the purge solenoid, one is green and the other is orange. I cut a little further up past a kink in the green wire, and now I'm getting 2-4 volts.
@@ScannerDanner sorry man! Scratch that update. I think it was a misreading. It was jumping from 2 to 4. Now I have nothing. I'm having a helluva time with this thing plus I'm trying to repair it out in the cold. And if you even worked on 1 of these purge solenoids they are in a screwed up spot. Any time and help is sincerely appreciated!!!!!
hello I have a dodge nitro, I'm having issues with evap system, at beginning I found some hoses damages (showing an error of something wrong on sparks), but after fix it, now is showing an error on evap system, already I verified all hoses and there is not more issues, solenoid was verified with directly voltage and is opening properly (I think because passed the air through) already I measure the voltage on connector (disconnected) and has the 12V, but once I connected to solenoid I have 0V, that's could be an indicator of something wrong... thanks in advance for some data helpfully
I have da same problem but on the purge solenoid. P0443 purge solenoid circuit. I replce the part but check engine light still on. Can you point me in the right direction plz
These are some videos I've done testing purge solenoids ua-cam.com/video/YhD7f4UrQqE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/jKVy_FLehhw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/kQz3g4HIWgs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/ZqWIwBByBHE/v-deo.html
hey scanner Dan it's Michael I have a ford f150 that has a rough ideal it has 183,000 mils it has had new coils and plugs. also it has had a new cat on bank 1. it had a misfire code for 1 and 2 cylinder. and a too lean bake 1 code. could it be a maf sensor.
Michael Starcher if it's a 4.2 I have seen the 6 egr ports under the intake manifold being clogged cause the same codes and symptoms. Took about a week to or more to figure out.
Unplug it and jump a power and ground to the solenoid itself. You could maybe try a 9v battery, but I'm not sure that can handle the current. Those solenoids are in the 300-400ma range of what they draw using a 12v source
hello, I have a hyundai sonata 2011 turbo limited. I got this message in the diagnosis, (p 0449 evaporative emission system-ventilation valve / solenoid circuit) how can I correct it. Thank you.
It should be very similar tests as I've shown in this video. Here is also a playlist of other EVAP testing I've done. ua-cam.com/video/Py23wqbJnQQ/v-deo.html
Hi. Thank you for having answered me and for your great videos. try to test the emission ccv. I disconnected the harness and applied the voltage of the battery but it happened to me to take the earth from the chassis and I put the one of the battery both the positive and the negative. on 2 or 3 occasions, it was felt to start and it seemed that the ccv or closing valve was stuck. and as a consequence of that I now have these 2 codes. p0449 evaporative emission system-vent valve / solenoid circuit. and U1112 LIN COMMUNICATION ERROR Active. I have erased the latter several times and come out again. These failures in themselves represent a problem for the car if I continue driving. Or you think I should take it to the hyundai to see me, or if I change the valve you think the problem would be solved. and how I repair the atro code. because I applied the positive of the batweria to the white wire and negative to red or brown. I do not know what to do. Please, what do you suggest? Thank you
Hi can someone guide me I need the wiring diagram for the power and the ground wire coming from ÉCU to my selenoid valve Chevy Tahoe 2007 because I need to confirm I have an open somewhere
I have a Po433 code--- and wont let me fill with gas..sometimes zero( just fills the hose to tank.) I been told the EVAP silinoid on engine isnt talking to PMR o ECM?! he thinks either broken or EMC blown??? why when key is off-- The Evap canister is open,, why wont the pressure in tank release.. I dont see wha would stop it from releasing...Unless the valve on top of tank where hose goes to Charcaol filter Is stuck closed.?? also he said Maybe the feulpump has a EVAP line going to it---Maybe its the pump!! Nobody seems to tell me why preesure wont release outa Avap canister ?? I do not inderstand!!!
Im chasing a similar issue. When I start my tacoma the vent is shut and opens. But when I am testing with the Phoenix I can command it open but not shut. Its also holding a vacuum when closed for well over ten minutes. Yay wtf
@@ScannerDanner12.63 on the hot wire and doesn’t change - .06 volts on the ground when commanded on and .04 when commanded off. Ill check w toyota to see what I should be seeintn
@@Madmok128 this is a problem! The control wire (if it's ground side switched) should be 12v off and 0v on. You're problem is right there! New solenoid I assume? Pull on the wires right at the connector, I bet it's broken in the insulation
Hello scannerdanner and everyone. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 05 cts 3.6 p0449 changed vent and later checked voltage on red 12.4v and white wire 3.2v where is the white wire going to? Computer? Any info is appreciated
What are you working on? Most likely a blown fuse or open in the power feed circuit to the solenoid. Or you didn't have a good ground on your meter, or your not making contact with the terminals.
Is it just not practical to stock all the various kinds of pins to re-crimp this kind of connect contact, rather than reusing the old one with a solder joint? Seems like it would be an easier/safer repair, if the parts were on hand..
I find a lot of crimp on connectors at my work (industrial electrician) exactly like that wire.
Had a broken wire inside a muli-connector wiring harness today from flexing--wire problems can really suck to track down.
Thanks for the video, nice
Nice save on the connector. These videos sure help support the lectures, thanks.
Great thanks, HHR, I just put a new valve in that had failed went for a test drive light on again, same code, watched this video, checked harness exactly the same broken wire and exactly the same place, great video, thanks again.
Wow! I'm going to try that now that I replaced everything that might cause this.
Problem is most don't have scanning tool! So how to manually will be a good video.
I'm not here for the DIY crowd. Sorry. Get a scan tool that can turn a driver on and off, otherwise you need to meet the conditions for the ECM to turn that driver on. In the case of an EVAP vent solenoid, the only time the ECM will turn that solenoid on is during the leak detection test! Good luck getting an ECM to run that test for you while you have test equipment set up.
Thanks bro you're the only video on the Web I found that has fixed my problem I Replaced the silanoid twice only to dig deeper and my wire broke in the same place you saved me a few hundred I'm sure thanks
After replacing a good evaporate solenoid & the other solenoid at engine, I finally went with a new plug which was an oddball from the standard plug which comes with the new harness. All set now Thanks:)
Loved the video! However, I took your wire repair one step further... I used the "new" adapter lead, which was about 5" long, and just cut the (old style) adapter ends off, then SOLDERED the ends together and used a marine-grade, sealing shrink tubing to protect the wire. Moisture is what was screwing up that connection and eventually eroded the wires. Basically, remove both old-style ends from the OE harness (male) and the adapter harness (female) , and solder the wires together. (crimped butt splices are for the hacks at UHaul when they are installing hitch wires...lol)
those heat shrink connectors are great. also the best ones to use on can wires as soldering can wire can add too much resistance to the circuit.
Huugeeee thank youuu! Is cold tonight but notice green dust on the white wire!!! And finally i cleared the code and now the remote stater works! Fixed! I have to comeback and say thank you!!! God bless you...happy Hollidays!
Nice! He just did with your comment and by knowing what I've shown helped someone.
@@ScannerDanner thanks again!😊😊😊
Shalom my brother, hope everything is great over there. This video gave me the right tools to take on my mom's 02 Suzuki Vitara with the same code. Thanks Paul, as always your a blessing to us shade tree mechanics.
Nice catch there! If that were me, I'd have spent 3 hours checking all the wiring only to find that at the very end, LOL! :D
I just discovered those heat shrink butt connectors about 5 years ago - best thing I ever started using, especially on trailers that get run through the salt, and then parked outside over dirt for an extended period. Could never go more than a month without having lighting and electric brake problems. Using those connectors, my stuff has lasted years, so I now use them on anything that is brought here for repair.
My only 2 issues have been the sub-par torches I find for shrinking them - they're either too small and take forever to melt, (and then break after only a few months of use, or fail to light in temps below 40°) or they're too big and turn everything black if I'm not careful. Other issue is the automatic strippers I've been using for years - none seem to last more than a few years before the tension just lets up on them. I find those to be the fastest way (for me at least) to strip wires, so long as the thing stays within reach. :)
As I was watching I was wondering why you didn't use a different coloured wire to fix that pigtail...and if you were going to use a sealant on the end. Nice to see these were addressed. I do as another commenter said - when in the wrecking yard I pick up the various pigtails.... they don't charge for them usually. They are good for testing solenoids as well as replacing broken harnesses. I am not a fan of piercing wires because I live in Canada and they salt the crap out of the roads so corrosion in wiring is a problem. Anyways - always like your videos..
😱 thats probably the reason why im still geting this code after changing this coil evap thing...thanks!!
Nicely done, I've been looking for a good demonstration of what to do when the broken wire is close to the connector. It's too bad they don't standardize and sell the metal inserts. They all seem to be similar, but you need an exact match unless you decide to replace the whole connector.
THANKYOU!!! Finally a useful Video .... this should be the exact same thing on a 07 cobalt ss .... wire is probably ran differently but its the same process! 2 year old video helping me out!
Valuable lesson! Nice diagnosis information. Excellent repair on wire and sealing out moisture.
Very detailed instructions. Thank you very much!
Just another great, informative video, Thank You! Keep the camera rolling...
Nicely done Paul , classic Gm issue
great find the circuit status in the bidirectional control did match your data list it just changed with the control status off and on
Thanks for this information! Gonna check the wiring on my pontiac g6 and look for breaks tomorrow since i've already changed the solenoid and gas cap and the stupid codes still there.
It was a damn wire... One little white wire. Little f^#Ker haha. Tone of replaced parts that probably didn't need replaced :P
GameTimeIzSiK have the same thing happening to me! Replaced multiple parts that were probably good and it was just a wire lmao gonna have to check it out tomorrow for sure
This the evap in the back by fuel pump or around engine
Omg Dan as God is My witness... thanks so much bro... I tried everything man...
In my mind I think I know what I am doing and I
Am fairly intelligent ... but there's so much to all of this... I did what u said and u are correct it's the harness I actually was about to ripe the seat out because there a harness under driver side seat... I pulled out the pcm and checked the wires lol
did you find the exact area of the fault? Where was the open circuit?
Well done sir The PP 4 is nice for sure!
This video helped me! I had the same issue! Thanks!
Those weather pack connector terminals can be bought for dirt cheap on Mouser.com. I keep a variety of them for working and doing mods on my GMC Sierra. I usually get the weather pack part number from my factory service manual and then type that number in to Mouser.com search. Then I just order a dozen or so and keep them on hand. Many of the plastic connectors and locks are available too. Much cheaper than buying replacement pigtails and no need for a butt splice.
I'm digging the ultra low profile creeper featured in Danner's latest videos. Cheap too.
excellent diagnosis and repair
thank you!
I save connectors and harnesses off of vehicles and just make up a new pig tail by removing a terminal from a used connector. Remove terminal end from old connector and replace is quicker for me in a shop setting..
for sure! Good tip
gotta love that color of green lol. all it takes is a minor defect in that insulation to let the magic of chemistry do its thing. im willing to bet that insulation was no longer pliable like it was when it was new.
Hey mr danner ! From the white wire from pcm , should we get voltage or ground ? Can you please explain? Thank you
On this model and this solenoid. That white wire is a switched ground. Meaning it is not always grounded. With the circuit is off, power will come into the pink or red wire and then wrap around the solenoid winding and will come out the white wire looking for a ground. Without a ground, there is no current flow, so there is no voltage drop, so you will read 12v on the white wire too! Make sense? So 12 and 12 if measuring with a voltmeter (circuit off) and 12 and 0 circuit on.
@@ScannerDanner thank you Mr Danner . It’s very helpful. I really appreciate you .
@@ScannerDanner Mr. I am just wondering did you do any case studies that you are trying to find whether a wire broken from PCM to fuse box or bad PCM ? Thank you
@@mokarrommolla5820 I'm sure there are plenty of them!
Search my chapter 3 playlist
I got power probe 3 that 4 looks like the real deal that is great for checking drivers it dont get safer
Great video i am working on 2011 Acura MDX it have a misfire on 2 and 6 but if you start it up it will run with no misfire for 35 seconds and then misfire on 2and 6 the customer replaces all of the Coil pack and all for the spark plugs
I just did one of these same exact concern. Try a crank position relearn. I wish i would have filmed it. Maybe next time.
Positive Lead Diagnostics crank relearn fix it I have a question how would you identify on am waveform
Idk if you will see anything Possibly just a computer glitch. The one I looked at had charging issues a week before the shop called me
Positive Lead Diagnostics thanks so much
No problem. Glad I could help
Nice job Paul.
I know flexing and movement can cause an inside break like that, but how does the moisture get inside the insolation? Does it work its way back from inside the connector? Ive found the same issue before, I'm just curious where it actually originates from.
good diagnostic amigo. excellent. happy new year amigo
YOU'RE F@^@$% AWESOME DAN!!!! YOU MADE MY DAY!!
My name is Paul Danner :-) but it's cool I get "Dan" all the time. I'm glad this helped you!
@@ScannerDanner Thank You Paul!!
Just Thanks, man. Thanks.
25:55 can you elaborate a little more? Does it matter if I accidentally reversed the wires when putting them back on and installed it ? Because I honest to God did and weird oddly enough it's not check engine light or anything showing on obdII screen ?
It doesn't. A solenoid will work with either polarity.
@@ScannerDanner thank you so much man! You know it's so weird it didn't work but I tried fitting it back in only to find out I pushed it would only go in the facing the other way and literally it solved the entire problem like I can believe this lol 🤣 thank you!!!!
@@ScannerDanner btw. Seriously though, this entire video I saved my 'Monte Carlo 2007 V8 SS' I can't find a video that has any better experience and advice on this kind of topic keep killing these video's dude!
can you make a video on carrying out an injector test with the power probe 4 you have ?
Lenny Williams
Brilliant! Mike in Australia.
Diagnosis AND repair! Is this a Scanner Danner video or and SMA video!?
Just kidding :P enjoyed seeing the PP4 put to use, thanks you.
thank you so much for your response, I just to do it, unplugged from solenoid results are (truck powe on) on connector 12v between them (2 cables), respect to GND (top/front view) left 12v, right 0v, with connector plugged to solenoid 0v between 2 cables, and respect to gnd 0v on both, also I connected a bulbe light of 12v directly to connector and did not turn on the light, I don't know if I need to use some diagnostic tool like you for enable the output for solenoid and that way can observe the power on on bulbe too, I'd like tell you something about the failure, when truck is running about 50 miles (at 1.5k rpm) feels like needs more power, but once that comes to 2k rpm truck runs ok, at autozone I got the following codes at beginning P0300 and after fix damaged hoses I got P0457 and P0446, also to this I replaced gas cap, due this error is showed too, Just I want to have an idea of what could be causing this... because 2 previous mounths truck was working ok
thank you and best regards
It would help me in the future to stay within the thread. I believe we are testing the vent solenoid. Also you are now describing multiple problems so let's address one at a time.
Now to the vent solenoid. You have a voltage drop problem on the supply side (pink wire on a GM). Pull on the wire near the connector. Don't be afraid to pull pretty hard. I'm willing to bet the wire pulls apart right where your green corrosion is. And if it is not right at the connector, do a real good visual inspection of the harness and look for contact points.
Okay found the original post. It's a Dodge. The numbers you gave me could be completely normal and what you are seeing is a bias voltage on the control side of a power side switched solenoid. At this point I need to to post this to my forum. Hope to see you there.
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Hey Paul could you do a video on when or why you would need to look at "Not Run or Failed since Codes Cleared" and "Not Run or Failed This Ignition Cycle" and also on fords I cant remember what it says but there are several options to pick from when you go to read the codes.
Any time I looked at the first 2 options there were usually a ton of codes.
Thanks
my issue is this. i had 12 volts on the red power wire and 0 volts on the white control wire, whether the vent valve is commanded on or off. nothing changed on the wires. so i pulled on the white one and it broke up in the other side of the harness that goes underneath the rear seat. i took out the back seat and the trim/weatherstripping for the passenger rear door and found that harness where the white wire broke. i rewired the white wire and checked voltage again at the connector and no change.
Solenoid winding is open. Take a test light to battery positive and touch on that white control wire and then commend the solenoid on. Test light will light if the driver and control wire are good.
Thanks for the video. I wish my problem was the white wire. My 08 Saturn Vue XR has no feed power at solenoid. It does show power at fuse for escm. Having trouble tracking wire from fuse block to solenoid. Any tips?
Check the wire about an inch from the evap solenoid connector. Tug on it. They will break inside of the insulation and it will look fine. It will be real stretchy and will pull apart
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve inspected it thoroughly and don’t see a break. I’ll keep trying. Hope that is it because it looks like there is a connector above fuel tank that is not easily accessible. Can’t seem to figure out how that wire routes from the fuse box. Appreciate the help. I’ll let you know what I find.
If this part gets wet say, like in a flood, how serious is this and, will this cause a no crank?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Only if the solenoid shorted out electrically and blew a fuse that is shared with other circuits. Other than that, no, this vent solenoid will not cause a no crank condition.
I made a cord with a toggle switch and fuse. I'm able to turn the solenoid off.....I don't have a good code reader to turn stuff off. Thought I'd mention this incase other people don't have a scanner that turns it off. I had to buy a plug connector for my solenoid which was around 8 bucks to do this
I got a 2007 Yukon XL, I was getting p0449 code, replaced the EVAP vent, cleaned out the charcoal canister, only to find out I have something wonky going on with the wiring. I tried checking for breaks at connector, didn't see any, I will be checking again, but it seems like when the solenoid is plugged in in stays closed all the time, even when the SUV is off. And drains battery within few days, hard to fill gas. I've unplugged it for now, which keeps the solenoid open and I can fill gas. But that's not proper fix. Would you think it's a wire break or could it possibly be harness (ground) rubbing on the frame? Usually people have issue that it doesn't click. Mine clicks once you plug it in and stays closed all the time. Just wondering if you encountered this before, seems to be a bit different from what most people are running into.
Haha I write on my hand too. LOL Nice one buddy....
Just performed the same job and i come home to watch this ahah
Senor dan do you have a hard copy of troubleshooting steps for diagnosing different evap codes . I cleared po442,po456,,but no luck on po448 I don't know where to start . I recently purchased a pwer probe kit and an evap smoke machine. I'm trying to learn the basics on electrical troubleshooting but keep getting lost. Saludos
Hi. Can you tell me where that wire leads? I have short, but not at the connector on that end apparently. Maybe it’s near a connector on the other end?
with the connector unplugged from the solenoid, i'm getting 12 volts for the power wire and 0 volts on the ground. What does this indicate? I was expecting 12 volts at the ground as well based on your video.
Currently stuck on a p0455 code after many attempts at a fix (new gas cap, vent solenoid, purge valve, canister). Also smoke test ran with no leaks detected
It should be zero volts unplugged on the control wire unless there is a bias voltage being used. The P0455 is a large leak code. There should be no issues finding a large leak. Can you close the vent solenoid when you do the smoke test? This is what you should be doing. Let me know
ScannerDanner
My mechanic could not find a leak with a smoke test
He was intermittently able to close the vent with a snap on tool, it would freeze on him. He tried different snap on tool, same results. Bought new solenoid, same results
He referred me to Chevy dealer, thinks it’s pcm
Does it matter reversed Polarity for the evap valve?
Thanks man, was looking for a video about faulty wiring and possible bad ecm driver.
Hey, I don’t have a harness on my wires at all. I bought the entire solenoid set, but the other side of the connector can’t connect to anything because there is not even a connecter for the wires. You or anyone know where i could get the connector piece? I hope it’s as easy as just sticking the wires through it… i shouldn’t have to do All the burning and stuff since i don’t have a connector right? Or instead of connector, could i like twist the wires together to establish connection?
I have a GMC acadia with a p0499 code. Do I need to drop the whole fuel tank to even get to the vent solenoid?
would you still get continuity on end to end of that harness with that wire in the condition it was? I have a code 440 it just says "evap system" and that is it. I've checked with digital multimeter and harnesses and voltages all good. I've replace vent valve, purge solenoid, gas cap, pressure sensor and still light keeps coming back on. Takes about 50 miles. New wire harness for pressure sensor. Tested those wires with doing the jumper method. Got 5v on reference, zero on ground, 1.4v on signal wire. The voltage on pressure sensor does not fluctuate though. It seems locked on that reading with car on or off doesn't matter. Vent valve i get 12v backprobing both wires with key on but the harness is good end to end continuity. Had a garage put on their scanner and he said bad pressure sensor. he didn't show me so im suspicious since it's brand new and i'm getting 1.4 on my meter.
I prefer the voltage measurements over resistance.
To confirm the vent solenoid wiring. Measure the control wire voltage right at the PCM. It should read 12v there too.
Thanks for the video! By the way, anyone know the exact name of this connector? It's not a weatherpack. I'm thinking metri-pack or tyco superseal?
Nice video!
Hi, I'm getting a PO449 error code, It is saying Evaporative Emission Vent Valve Solenoid Malfunction. I had a new one put in my car and I'm still getting the same error code. I had an electrician look at it and he said that there is a problem with the wiring harness. He said that it is not getting the voltage it needs. My question to you is do you think the problem could be a loose wire connection, the same as in this your video?
yep, don't let them put a computer in it
So what was the problem?
Im curious but is there a way to replace that connector instead of repairing it. I can see on my vehicle that wire goes through the wheel well and from there i cant see where it leads too.
Sure, if you can find one.
Hahaha. With in the last month I did two of things. One was a 2009 needed the solenoid and the other was a 2007 the wiring was broke to the valve.
you forgot to put back on the blue tab but great work sir
Oh crap! You're right. smh
Was the heat shrink you used, adhesive lined as well?
Hey Scanner, pulled the fuse box and I ran a new wire from the terminal to the purge valve solenoid. I have 12 volts at the end of the wire. Only problem is I have 12 volts all the time. Even WITHOUT the key in the ignition. The key isn't even in the truck. Should it be like that? If not do you know what's going on?
THANK YOU GREATLY IN ADVANCE FOR ANY OF YOUR TIME AND HELP! IT'S MORE THEN GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!
As long as it is fuse protected you should be okay. That circuit isn't active with the key off anyway. I would still rather see an ignition feed being used though
@@ScannerDanner well I have it back together, I no longer have any evap codes but fuse 26 is hot all the time and when I went to start the truck the battery was dead. The battery is only 2 months old. I jumped it and it started all day. But when it sat again for 7-8 hours the battery was dead again. Do you have a clue what is going on or what I could do?
Yep, you're power up circuits that should be off with the key off. You need to find an ignition hot wire, NOT a battery hot one like your using
@@ScannerDanner but I'm using the factory wire at fuse 26. Are you telling me to just pull fuse 26 and use another wire for the purge solenoid? If I use another wire then what was used at the factory will my check engine light still stay off?
Without looking at the diagrams, I can tell you for sure, that the purge valve should NOT have power on it all the time.
when doing a diagnosing on a car how much can we charge to a businesses or customer?
Hi Paul, any word on the possibility of air conditioning lessons as you were thinking when repairing your previous Jeeps AC. Would be good. Mike from down under.
Great video. I've never really been a fan of the Power Probe. I can get the same results with a length of ethernet cable or speaker wire and a DVOM. Just run the wire from the battery to wherever you need to be on the car. The Driver Test on the PP is basically a rip off on a LoadPro (showing the voltage drop across an internal load). Just sayin'...
Pet Rock's Garage power probe has proved handy for me, solid ground like Dan mentioned, built in light, instant access to power and ground when needed, battery voltage always present, and more?! These features are nice to have when your laying under a rust bucket down in the dirt.
I didn't say it wasn't useful. I was just saying that you can get the same results with a length of ethernet cable or speaker wire and a DVOM. Actually better since even a cheap DVOM will likely have a better resolution, precision & repeatability. I particularly like ethernet cable because the thin wires can be inserted into connectors without spreading the pins/contacts.
Pet Rock's Garage sweet!
Pet Rock's Garage I use the load-pro 😯
What's the scan software you're using on your laptop?
Hey man. So we have an 06 scion xb in the shop with a U0100 and a couple other codes. It keeps randomly dying. No special circumstances really when it happens. We've been riding around testing various inputs with a Pico seeing if anything drops out and can't really find anything. One strange thing to me is all the 12V inputs have multiple spikes. This doesn't seem normal to me but maybe I'm wrong. The other guy seems to think it is. Any chance I could maybe get your input?
Thanks big man, but i didn't see source of power for your soldering gun.
You didn't see the butane?
can you do that bidirectional test with a test light or will that fry the computer?
Can I disconnect the solenoid and use a test light in it's place and command that circuit on with a scanner and watch for my light to light up? Absolutely. Just do a quick amperage measurement of your test light. Make sure it is under 300 ma and you'll be fine for all solenoids.
thanks for the response! love your videos, binge watching them right now. you are awesome!
Hey I just discovered your channel and your pretty bad ass. I saw your video about the Honda pgm-fi relay a few years ago. I'm trying to diagnose my car but there are some weird things going on. when the key turns to fuel pump, the pump stays priming and the injectors pulse. any idea?
Scanner Danner you got good manner.
haha thanks
Hey brother, which power probe is that? I’m certainly interested in getting one!
Not totally sure, but you can find most tools I am using on my tool page of my website where I have an affiliate with AESwave and Amazon www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html
@@ScannerDanner thank you!
shrink tubing works good too
It does but only the type that has the sealer inside of it. The blue stuff I used in this video was not the good kind.
Scanner PLEASE help me if you have time!!!! I have a 2006 Chevy trailblazer 4.2. I have no power at the solenoid connector. I cut up from the connector 2 inches to put a new pigtail on. I stripped the wire to prepare for the connection but I have no power at either wire still. Could you please tell me what you recommend I do next? I only have a Innova 3140 so please bare with me. Thank you so much in advance for any time you could spare for me!!!!!!!! Codes are p0443, p0449. Solenoid and vent valve both replaced with gm parts. I have power at the rear vent valve.
Do you have power to your purge solenoid under the hood? They share the same power feed from fuse 26 "TCM CNSTR" 10 amp in the underhood fusebox
@@ScannerDanner wow THANKS SO MUCH for the quick response! I honestly appreciate it. Sorry if I didn't explain it right. The problem I'm having is the solenoid connector under the hood, I have no power to either connector wire. Or any power 2 inches from the connector were I cut to put the new pigtail on. I do have power to the vent valve by the gas tank. Not 12 volts but I think that is from having a horrible ground back there, but both wires by the gas tank I was getting at least something. I'm not getting nothing from the wires under the hood. I have good power at the fuse. Sorry I also have a C0110. Not sure if that is related but I think that's a connection issue also.
@@ScannerDanner UPDATE!!! there are 2 wire that go to the purge solenoid, one is green and the other is orange. I cut a little further up past a kink in the green wire, and now I'm getting 2-4 volts.
@@ScannerDanner sorry man! Scratch that update. I think it was a misreading. It was jumping from 2 to 4. Now I have nothing. I'm having a helluva time with this thing plus I'm trying to repair it out in the cold. And if you even worked on 1 of these purge solenoids they are in a screwed up spot. Any time and help is sincerely appreciated!!!!!
follow the harness, damage occurs in areas of heat and vibration, look for contact points of that harness to locate the damaged power wire.
great job....
Will this cause a no start or have anything to do with my fuel gauge
No, unless the vent solenoid power feed is shared with other circuits and is dead
@@ScannerDanner mine is fed separate from the fuse box
I think my issue is ecu though
hello
I have a dodge nitro, I'm having issues with evap system, at beginning I found some hoses damages (showing an error of something wrong on sparks), but after fix it, now is showing an error on evap system, already I verified all hoses and there is not more issues, solenoid was verified with directly voltage and is opening properly (I think because passed the air through) already I measure the voltage on connector (disconnected) and has the 12V, but once I connected to solenoid I have 0V, that's could be an indicator of something wrong...
thanks in advance for some data helpfully
For sure, that could be an issue. What is the voltage on both solenoid wires plugged in and unplugged?
I have da same problem but on the purge solenoid. P0443 purge solenoid circuit. I replce the part but check engine light still on. Can you point me in the right direction plz
These are some videos I've done testing purge solenoids
ua-cam.com/video/YhD7f4UrQqE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/jKVy_FLehhw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/kQz3g4HIWgs/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ZqWIwBByBHE/v-deo.html
hey scanner Dan it's Michael I have a ford f150 that has a rough ideal it has 183,000 mils it has had new coils and plugs. also it has had a new cat on bank 1. it had a misfire code for 1 and 2 cylinder. and a too lean bake 1 code. could it be a maf sensor.
Michael Starcher what year and engine size?
Michael Starcher if it's a 4.2 I have seen the 6 egr ports under the intake manifold being clogged cause the same codes and symptoms. Took about a week to or more to figure out.
How do you open and close without a Scan tool like that.
Unplug it and jump a power and ground to the solenoid itself. You could maybe try a 9v battery, but I'm not sure that can handle the current. Those solenoids are in the 300-400ma range of what they draw using a 12v source
hello, I have a hyundai sonata 2011 turbo limited. I got this message in the diagnosis, (p 0449 evaporative emission system-ventilation valve / solenoid circuit) how can I correct it. Thank you.
It should be very similar tests as I've shown in this video. Here is also a playlist of other EVAP testing I've done.
ua-cam.com/video/Py23wqbJnQQ/v-deo.html
Hi. Thank you for having answered me and for your great videos. try to test the emission ccv. I disconnected the harness and applied the voltage of the battery but it happened to me to take the earth from the chassis and I put the one of the battery both the positive and the negative. on 2 or 3 occasions, it was felt to start and it seemed that the ccv or closing valve was stuck. and as a consequence of that I now have these 2 codes. p0449 evaporative emission system-vent valve / solenoid circuit. and U1112 LIN COMMUNICATION ERROR Active. I have erased the latter several times and come out again. These failures in themselves represent a problem for the car if I continue driving. Or you think I should take it to the hyundai to see me, or if I change the valve you think the problem would be solved. and how I repair the atro code. because I applied the positive of the batweria to the white wire and negative to red or brown. I do not know what to do. Please, what do you suggest? Thank you
Hi can someone guide me I need the wiring diagram for the power and the ground wire coming from ÉCU to my selenoid valve Chevy Tahoe 2007 because I need to confirm I have an open somewhere
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
I have a Po433 code--- and wont let me fill with gas..sometimes zero( just fills the hose to tank.) I been told the EVAP silinoid on engine isnt talking to PMR o ECM?! he thinks either broken or EMC blown??? why when key is off-- The Evap canister is open,, why wont the pressure in tank release.. I dont see wha would stop it from releasing...Unless the valve on top of tank where hose goes to Charcaol filter Is stuck closed.?? also he said Maybe the feulpump has a EVAP line going to it---Maybe its the pump!! Nobody seems to tell me why preesure wont release outa Avap canister ?? I do not inderstand!!!
Stuck closed vent solenoid or the hose to the vent is plugged
Mine are cut ! Any advice
advice for how to fix them? we cover that in this video
Thank u
I have 12 volts on one wire and 3 on the other help???
That 3v could be a bias voltage suggesting the solenoid winding is open
Im chasing a similar issue. When I start my tacoma the vent is shut and opens. But when I am testing with the Phoenix I can command it open but not shut. Its also holding a vacuum when closed for well over ten minutes. Yay wtf
when you command it to close (energized), take a voltage reading on both wires for me, plugged in and backprobing.
@@ScannerDanner ok ill report back thanks brother!
@@ScannerDanner12.63 on the hot wire and doesn’t change - .06 volts on the ground when commanded on and .04 when commanded off. Ill check w toyota to see what I should be seeintn
@@ScannerDanneris that power probe kinda like the ect3000
@@Madmok128 this is a problem! The control wire (if it's ground side switched) should be 12v off and 0v on. You're problem is right there! New solenoid I assume? Pull on the wires right at the connector, I bet it's broken in the insulation
thaNKSS
if you test the vent valve and closes could still be bad if you have 12v and 0 on the ground
yes, they can stick mechanically
Thanks but im getting 12 v on ground when you put power but wont close so im guessing is some electrical problem
12v on the ground is normal until the computer grounds the circuit.
Ok thanks ill appreciate
So probably that means that is the ecm
I had the exact same problem and I already ordered the new connector for $52 then I found this video 🤦
Hello scannerdanner and everyone. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 05 cts 3.6 p0449 changed vent and later checked voltage on red 12.4v and white wire 3.2v where is the white wire going to? Computer? Any info is appreciated
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/16-need-service-info-check-here.html
I have a p0448 issue
I have zero voltage on both wires. Bad pcm?
What are you working on? Most likely a blown fuse or open in the power feed circuit to the solenoid. Or you didn't have a good ground on your meter, or your not making contact with the terminals.
Pete needs some Kester 63/37 maybe .031 diameter. That stuff looked like plumbers acid core lol
Haha for sure!
Is it just not practical to stock all the various kinds of pins to re-crimp this kind of connect contact, rather than reusing the old one with a solder joint? Seems like it would be an easier/safer repair, if the parts were on hand..