2012 owners manual: "NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine must use SAE 5W-20 oil. Failure to do so may result in improper operation of the Multi-Displacement System (MDS)." 2014 owners manual: "NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available" 2016 owners manual: "MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures." 2022 owners manual: "We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer." So with the EXACT SAME engine with MDS, we went from "you MUST use 20 weight oil" to "it's OK to use 30 weight" to "we recommend even thinner 0W20 weight" and then finally they admitted that the watery 20 weight oils cause ticking because the viscosity is too thin and the lifters bleed down too fast, plus there is improper lubrication.
I've been saying it for years. And you can look at the 3.6 Pentastar as proof. That motor started using 5W30 when it was released in 2009. Very few lifter/cam failures. In 2014 they went to 5W20, we saw an uptick in lifter/cam failures. In 2017/2018 they switched to 0W20 and lifter/cam failures became common. I'm no rocket surgeon, but it doesn't take a PhD to correlate the reduction in viscosity with the increase in failures. I ran Redline 5W30 in my 2013 and 2017 5.7 Hemi's without issue, and run it in my 2012 and 2021 Wrangler/Gladiator without issue. I run Redline 5W40 in my 6.4 without issue. Those thinner oils aren't being used for anything other than FCA chasing a fraction of a percent better fleetwide fuel economy ratings.
I could care less about that MDS system operating, it's annoying kicking in and out and sounds like crap. I turn it off with the manual shift buttons every time I drive, I don't calculate a difference in fuel economy at all.
Honestly your understanding of motor oils is very off. The 0W20 will be the same or more "thickness" as 5W30 in use. This is because 0W20 shears a lot less because it has a combination of better base stocks and less viscosity improvers. Also the difference between a SAE 30 and SAE 20 is about the width of a human hair. This is also why you can use a 5W30 without issue because the width of a human hair makes no difference.
@@davidporter7051 I was always told that the second number was the weight AFTER the additives. So once that's gone your down to the first number, 0, 5, 10 etc. Thats why when you first ran a Model T you used Vegetable oil, but by the time it was a junker, the clearances and tolerances were so bad you could have run maple syrup. Obviously tech has changed over the last 120+ years. But the thinner the oil, the less affective oil pressure you have in the system, to create the barrier to save the parts from wear, due to it being so freely moving in the system. Now, throw in some cold temps, maybe a Canada winter and we have a whole new ball of wax to discuss/argue/speculate on who's right or wrong. Running 0w20 means the tolerances are supper tight for the rod bearings etc but is the oil pump the same in all these engines of the last decade? Whats the oil pressure at idle vs under load? and was it enough to pump it to the top side of the engine to keep the lifters happy.
Thanks a Lot man, I had a tick noise in my 2014 Hemi dodge ram so I fond your video and I change the oil to 5w30 and the Hemi tick is GONE ! .... Respect from Saudi Ariba.
Since I bought the truck new (2019 Ram 5.7 non-Etorque), I’ve only used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 oil and I have no ticks whatsoever. No noises at all My truck currently has 120,000 miles. I’ve may change it prematurely but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I change it every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. My mechanic says I can go between 7,000 - 10,000 miles, and I believe I can, but it’s more for peace of mind. And I’m ok with that. Truck still running smooth like when I bought it.
I've told several people to run 5w30 in their Ram 1500 5.7s. The owners manual even says you can in hotter climates. I've ran several of these engines to 200k on 5w30 with zero issues. I'm also a Gen 3 Hemi builder and I've had well over 500 of these apart, and mine with 5w30 were all clean inside. 5w30, 5k religiously intervals.
Spoken like a true engine builder, however, i still do a 2k oil change like there is no filter! Imagine how clean my engine would be if i ever bought anything brand new?
@@J0897 That is why I am soo happy to have bought our Wrangler JK made to order brand spanking new (my first new vehicle). I even asked the dealer to leave it as is as it arrived and they kindly followed my request. It was there in the back of the lot, all original and the dealer let me to take off all the protective plastics. No one has worked on the vehicle since, no one has sat behind the wheel since. I have done everything on the vehicle since, even the car washes. Just sent my oil to a lab for testing, which is a first for me too. 5W30 all the way, despite the (ill) recommend factory 5W20. Some day, I would like to buy another new vehicle, but sadly there is less and less new vehicles that interest me. Anything more than 6-speed auto is out of the question for me, which already excludes (like all???) new vehicles. Also the recent locking of ECM, via Security Gateway Module (SGM) does not sound too encouraging. As if accessing the ECM was not already hard enough. This is just what we 'needed'.
@@wvjeepguy8178 I agree and that is one more thing that I like about the Tacomas. But I heard that sadly 2024 models (maybe even already 2023 models) will be going to move to a 10-speed auto. I hope not. You might be a Tacoma fan and might know more. If so please share. We currently also have a BMW 440i with an 8-speed auto (same as the new Jeeps) and what can I say, we don't like it a bit and exactly the 8-speed auto part of it. It is like driving one of those 50cc motorcycles; you find yourself in 5th gear, while you are still driving at bicycle speeds. I have no idea who likes these auto transmissions with as many speeds like a semi truck. I hear some people find it it sporty. But that is sure not me.
@@mrtopcat2 The 2023 models listed on the site are still showing the 6 speed auto, but i do know they will be going to different transmissions sometimes soon. A transmission isn't going to be inherently worse just because it has more gears. For example, the autos in newer Wranglers are far better than the older autos from just a few years ago. there are already kits to upgrade older wranglers to the newer autos.
Been running 5w-20 pennzoil platinum in mine since I’ve bought it. Sitting at 41k miles and live in north east Ohio. You recommend switching to 5w-30 still?
I've been been upping the viscosity in all of my engines for years. The 5.7 Hemi loves 5w30 I can attest. Most notable was my recent Jeep Gladiator with the 3.6 and my mother in laws Compass with the 2.4. Both specified to run 0W20. Both were extremely noisy, under all conditions - especially at operating temp. Went to 5w30 in both, and they're silent and smooth sounding with zero loss of fuel economy. All this super thin oil is designed for the CAFE standard, and the measured fuel economy number during their initial test. It is not designed for hopping in, running to the grocery store or towing a trailer uphill - where you would never know the difference. Oil related wear failures are becoming some of the most common, across all brands. Keep your engines alive - up the viscosity.
Did the same to my RAV4. 5W-30 and it doesn’t sound like a sewing machine on start up anymore. 220,000 miles and still driven 166 miles daily from North GA to Marietta GA.
My Tick is gone …. my 6,4 Hemi has 15.000 miles on it … , And now I use Castrol Edge 10w60 oil …the ticking is gone …. engine runs great … and fast on German Autobahn …, I use it in all my cars … never problems …
I agree 100% with this from my own experience. Bought my Ram and noticed the ticking symphony at start up. I then switched to Amsoil 5W-30 and Wix filter. The ticking symphony quit and went away immediately. Just run 5W-30 and a filter that flows well.
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited 5.7 Etorque 4X4 at 1,000 miles I changed the oil installed a Pacbrake oil relocation kit and a Valvo max drain plug for no mess oil changes But most important I installed a S17 Kand P Engineering reusable stainless steel mesh oil filter that cleans to 5 microns this is the key advantage 7 TIMES MORE FLOW than a paper filter at hot idle in 85 degree weather I get 35PSI at 95 MPH 45PSI IMO the proper pressure is better than high pressure BUT MAXIMUM FLOW AND CLEAN OIL STOPS WEAR and I have an internal MAGNET to catch all the micro metals. Im about to install a BYPASS Filter to clean down to 1 micron. Flow is the answer I use 0W20 Amsoil I changed the oil again at 5,000 miles and will change again at 10,000 miles currently 8500 and she is quite as can be on cold start or hot idle. CLEAN, GREAT FLOW, MAGNET, BEST OIL AMSOIL SIGNIURE SERIES IMO will make it last I did the same thing on my 15 Longhorn Ecodiesel and had 175,000 miles no motor issues. Diesel Fuel just cost to much and with the Etorque Im at 22MPG on hwy same as the Eco but $1.50/gal less at the pump I put in a tune running 440 HP I enjoy this truck and I enjoy changing the oil now I dont spil a drop. Take care of your truck a long the way and you will have a great life together. I wash the engine every 2 weeks with Griots engine wash looks better than the day I bought it. I'm old man but I like to go fast and listen to that hemi roar HAHA yeah baby. What else am I gonna do I cant dance.
That's really smart, may have to look into doing that myself, but I'm sorry, 22 highway is nowhere close to the Ecodiesel. 4wd Ecodiesels get 30 highway lol
@John flood well the 2015 was the 1st gen Ecodiesel which was a nearly completely different motor, so not the same thing at all lol. 4WD Ecos are rated at 29-30 highway, and I personally know 3 people that average that driving to and from work.
I have a 2019 RAM 4x4 and I typically use 5w-20 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer of full synthetic. Another thing that I found that really helps stop the ticking as much in the beginning is a oil additive (metal penetrant) on top to reduce the wear significantly. From doing research many mechanics have said it is because the oil pressure doesn't allow to reach the top end of the engine, hence the 6.2 hemi engine performance oil pump is the way to go on a 5.7 hemi as it bolts right up and gives more performance volume to get that oil faster on the top end! Yes, the type of oil makes a significant difference as well, no doubt! The hemi engines of today also have problems with heat/thaw on the manifolds to snap bolts, which is very common and recommendations are to change the manifolds out to shorty sport tuned headers. Stainless steel headers heat/thaw at rates closer to the aluminum heads than cast iron! There is a big difference between a good quality header and the cheap ones that are out on the market! The recommendations are to have quality tuned shorty headers from what I have heard from many different mechanics! My wish is for people to take care of what they have and may it last for many years to come! I have not had very many problems with my truck since buying it and am thankful to all the engineers who worked hard with making a quality product as I hear stories out there on many different automakers of what can go wrong and/or will eventually! I changed to quality LED backup lights on my truck also, the cheap ones had resister problems and the new ones seem to by pass those problems that even extend to the key fobs with starting issues. Buy quality when you can, then they should last and perform correctly, lessons learned! Life is an adventure!... Love you brother!
@@stevenhicks815 gotta watch it. I am a huge fan of Lucas products, and am new to hemi's. Not used to mds or anything like that. I did an oil change and only used about a quart of Lucas and got a misfire and the lifter code for reactivation. Changed the oil and have had no issues since. Glad I caught it soon.
Not sure what the reasoning is by switching to 5w20 in winter as the cold viscosity is the same in both 5w20 & 5w30. Both are 5 weight when cold-the 20 and 30 are the viscosity when reaching operating Temps ~200°.
As far as oil additives check out this video and what they have to say, Lake Speed Jr is extremely knowledgeable on engine oil, you can check out his UA-cam channel called the motor oil geek - ua-cam.com/video/ZBrd3mDvFn8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I have a 22 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and I use penzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 also and I use the Boss purolator oil filter! I have no ticking sound at all! I'm staying with the 5w30 oil!
Hey guys auto tech here currently for dodge and worked a little bit for gm You are spot on sir All vehicles with the 0w-20 weight and 5w-20 weight That weight is too thin Helps give these new vehicles a couple extra miles per gallon but reliability goes way down After talking to some guys who’ve been doing it longer than I’ve been alive and in combination with my own experience If you switch to a thicker weight 5w30 or 10w30 You’ll lose a couple extra miles per gallon however the extra thickness really helps coat that cam and the lifters Just thought I’d chime in you were spot on with your video
@@scottcpan68 what’s really insane is that if they didn’t have the active fuel management (afm) or if deleted and ran the thicker oil I would be out of a job These cars are actually made very well and borderline bullet proof what’s screwing everything up is the emission laws being passed by legislation. I have plenty of friends who again have done this a while Built their own race cars Hell they’ve forgot more about cars than I could ever know And even they agree with that statement Take away the afm bs and you got yourself a bullet proof machine
Hemi engine do not like anything over 10-30 because it’s starts to restric in the passages and so forth exspecially in order gums up engines ! Also a Mopar tech been building Mopar for years !! Drag racer/builder
Exactly. I ve been saying this for years. The thinner oil nowadays is all for better fuel economy. Also, newer engines have a higher oil capacity than years ago. Probably cause the thinner oil burns easily and having an extra quart or two in the bigger oil pan helps keep it lubricated. I remember 4 cyl engines from the 80s tool 3.5- 4 qts . Now they are up to 6 qts in some brands.
I have a 2011 5.7 Hemi 180,000 miles I’m going to try 5/30 or 10/30 first before I replace the cam and lifters it’s not a loud tick but I notice it more in drive not moving. It might be broken exhaust manifold bolt a shop told me it’s the cam and lifters but that’s what I’m going to confirm myself.
I have a 2011 ram been running 5-20 synthetic since new , changing it every 6,000 has the tick on start up goes away in 30sec, it currently has 300,000 km on it and still going strong , but I’ll give the 5-30 a try🤙
I'm not sure if it has made a difference or not but I've always added 1 liter of diesel spec oil for all my gas engines at oil change and haven't had any issues. And a lifter from an '04 Hemi will fit and work in an '09 and later Eagle Hemi. So no, they weren't specifically designed for the zero weight oil.
I've read in the technical service bulletins that the heaviest oil you can use is 5W-20 oil in order for the MDS system to function properly. The Hemi in my 2017 Longhorn was a little noisy so I thought I would try 5W-30 synthetic oil in it. MDS functions exactly the same as it did with 5W-20 synthetic oil in it. Even when the oil has not fully warmed up the MDS system functions as before. I'm even tempted to try full synthetic 10W-30 oil in it to see how that works. Have been using Pennzoil Platinum for years. 0W-20 is way too light for summer driving in my mind.
It's uh... Its still there. The lifter is still blown. You've just used oil to cover the sound. Perhaps your buying yourself another 10-20k miles.... The issue will not resolve itself.
When the lifters fail and you fall victim and have to fix it you will be singing a different tune !! I know it happened to my 2010 1500 ....dont listen to this guy the oil hase zero to do with the lifters failing ..its due to needle bearings breaking in the roller or in my case 2 lifters with not enough needle bearings from the factory and jammed up the roller.
My 2013 1500 5.7 new to me in 2015 tick went away after switching to Amsoil 5w-30 and keeping it at the top mark on dipstick which actually requires about 1/3 qt more than the 7 qts called for. 155K miles.
There are two things too think about: 1: The Auto Enginers don´t know what they are doing! If they did they would not be desighning engines that will not last a couple hundred thousand miles. What the consumer is getting is blown engines, massive recalls and Civil Suites. or 2: They are being preasured by CEOs who penny pinch and want too cut cost or are being preasured by Tree Hugging Enviormental Politics! In the old days we went by the Climatic Viscosity Chart that was in every vehicles owners manual. Oils have gotten so much better but the Viscosity of oil is still the same, like Mathmatics it does not change, it can only remain stable untill it reaches the breaking point due to heat. Todays Turbo Charged Engine run very hot, oil coolers are unable to cool the oil down, the oil breaks down to where it is not longer lubricatind like it should. A 20 weight oil only holds up to +15c before it starts to break down. A 30 weight goes to +35c. Numbers should speak for themselfs! What is the AGENDA of the auto industry? To see you through a life time of driving with the same vehicle?? or To "SELL NEW CARS?"
I run the 5w 20 full synthetic but I also run the Lucas oil additive new car formula and engine tik is gone. I have over 60K on my 2019 fifth gen with no issues and been running Lucas additive since 20K. The 5W 30 is absolutely fine but the Lucas additive is thick and does the same thing basically. Good video brother and happy motoring!
I had 2 hemi trucks that had higher milage I used that stuff in, thinking it would help but I got a really bad lifter ticking like almost knocking both times, seems like it gets in the lifters or something and makes them stiick maybe? I Really wouldnt use additives in these engines. just keep the oil really clean, thats just from my experience with lucas
I'm glad to hear it. My purchased new 2012 RAM Laramie 1500 has 140,000 miles on the HEMI and still purrs like a kitten. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles. Regular oil.
Do not put 0w 20 oil into any engine. Unless it has specs of less than 2,000 of an inch for oil passage, you cannot get by with that there is not enough film strength in 0w 20 or any of those water oils. I had a 2007 300C and a 2009 300C at the same time, both black both blacked out windows . They ran great. A big deal here, never put standard plugs in a hemi. Put iridium spark plugs in this Mercedes inspired engine, and you will get better fuel mileage guaranteed. My 2009 when I put Bosch iridium plugs in it, driving down Woodward Avenue was getting 45 Mi per gallon. The mileage went up markedly. Always run at least half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before you do an oil change to keep the inside of that engine spotless. And regularly like every other time you drive it you have to get the revs up over $2,000 to 2200 RPM to get enough oil up onto the lifters to not fail. Why they never put oil squirters to make sure they got oil on those lifters I don't know, obviously I think they hired some old General Motors Engineers who didn't think that oil on camshafts or proper hardening of camshafts was an important issue. I've only been wrenching on cars since 1964. Maybe I haven't learned a thing. Another neat trick with any engine is what about half a quart or even a full court in some of these high Reserve oil pens. The seals in the engine will love it.
I have a 2018 300s 5.7 Hemi that I bought brand new and it had the startup tick from the showroom floor. I think the MDS lifters make the noise, but I'm not positive. The noise always goes away within a few seconds so I never sweat it. I changed the break-in oil at 2000mi and then the next change 3000mi later, both times using Penzoil 5w-20 Platinum synthetic (DEXOS) and a Purolator One filter (as you use). I have always changed oil at 3000mi intervals with my older (10w-30) engines, but I decided to try 5K intervals with this Hemi. For the first full 5000mi fill, I added "Bio Tech" Lubegard oil additive (blue bottle, 16oz), which is thin and does not really increase the viscosity. After 5K with that mixture, I can report the tick is almost completely gone since adding the BioTech and my gas mileage went up slightly and also oil temp increased slightly, indicating better heat absorption in the oil (better cooling of moving parts). I might consider following your lead and using the Platinum Penzoil 5w-30 after the engine gets some more miles on it (only 15K on it now) and see if the gas mileage suffers. I don't like the watery oil myself, but I do run 10w-30 in racing engines where others use SAE40 or 20w-50...
Some companies changed the piston rings to low friction rings when they went to the 0-20. So you think your engine has the standard/original rings? I would figure out how to turn off the MDS system.
The ring pack in an '04 Hemi is identical to the later Eagle head Hemis. Also, my 2018 Power Wagon 6.4 has a spec oil of 0W40. I wouldn't run anything thicker than 5W40 due to the ring pack but I also add 1 liter of Diesel spec 5W40 to my Power Wagon. Been running Hemis since 2004 and no failures but fixed several for other people.
@@raywagner8016 it is my understanding that the 0-40 is superior. 0-40 is a Euro spec. Shell Rotella has a diesel oil that will work in gassers too. It is designed for the smaller European diesels that Ram and Chevy put in their half ton trucks. Bikers use in their high output engines too. I run the Penzzoil 0-40 in my Yamaha four-stroke outboards
@@Cotton088. Yes and that's why I don't have an issue running up to even 5W40 synthetic in any current gas engine. I like to run a little Rotella just because of the EP additive package. It works for me. I've never had any ring related issues. But I also wouldn't consider using an equivalent conventional oil in a light ring engine.
Mine has the tick, but it’s actual lifter failure. Went from 5w-20 to 30 and no difference. Putting in new cams, lifters, timing chain, shorty headers and exhaust in a couple weeks. She will be right!
Just a word of caution. If it’s been running like this for a while. Your cam is probably destroyed and there’s probably metal shavings throughout the engine. I’ve seen engines broken down and the rod bearing , main bearings and cam bearing are destroyed. Maybe cut your oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
@@timg185 it’s already been done months ago. Running like a top, and oil is perfect at every oil change. It was only one lifter that was faulty, and barely. I’m just very aware of noises. Thanks though
For what it's worth Spouse has 14 grand cherokee overland 5.7 hemi with 74,000 miles-has been a great vehicle overall but noticed the hemi tick especially on startup that would settle down soon after startup. I have taken more of a role in maintenance on this vehicle and in addition to full synthetic changes I also add lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer and I feel that it has greatly if not completely cured the tick. Keep in mind I became a believer in the lucas oil stabilizer product when dealing with my civilian H1 HMMWV with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It is not my daily driver and when i would periodically start/use this vehicle there was a noticeable dry start "clack" for a few seconds that drove me nuts but i expected this as it may be weeks or months between use. Since using lucas oil stabilizer in the humvee it can sit 6 months and intial start is smooooth as silk......there is an undeniable difference. Just my experience take it for what its worth but I use it in my kubota diesel as well. appreciate the info and the channel.
Good video ! I have been using 5w/30 for 2 years , since we bought our 2013 ram 5.7 . I also use a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer . Change it before the "recommend" pre set 10k oil change interval . I might try rotella 5w/40 the next time its due for a change .
That Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer works great. I have a 96 5.2L Grand Cherokee. I bought it used with a little less than 150k miles on it. It sat in a garage for a long time...years. I think it had some stuck lifters. I flushed the engine with Seafoam. The valve train seemed to be a little quieter,but it had a shakey idle. A few days later I drained about a quart of oil and added a bottle of Lucas. Within a week, the Valve train quieted down and it runs really well. Been driving it nearly every day for over a year now. Took it on a few long trips. I trust it. I'm pretty sure that some of the lifters were stuck because sometimes the tick would come and go with just regular 10w30 oil. And it always had good oil pressure.
In my 14’ I’ve been running 5w-20 full synthetic since day one and never have valve train noise. I now have a passenger side exhaust manifold to replace causing some cold start up noise but that’s it. I know the heavy duty application of the 5.7L said 5w-30 never personally felt I needed to run it. Worth a shot I guess if you’re hearing noise.
My 6.4 hemi makes noise on the passenger side under the truck and it sounds like exhaust or exhaust manifold noise and it goes away after about 30 seconds. Chrysler replaced the whole bank of lifters and it didn’t make one bit of difference. I have just learned to live with it
@@floydlarken3148 Its broken exhaust manifold bolts, mostly goes away after cold start as the metal manifold swells with heat. After having to weld my broken bolts out of the heads I put a straight edge on the manifolds and found they were warped severely. This is common to all manufacturers according to the vids I've been seeing on youtube. I bought new manifolds and gaskets on amazon, they were china made but were true to the straight edge and no more cold start ticking since. However my HEMI does sound like a rattly diesel when driving, maybe changing to thicker oil will help that.
Experienced the exact same thing when I bought my Jeep JK Wrangler new off the lot back in '08. The old-school Chrysler 3.8L pushrod V6 in it was designed back in the 80's and originally ran on 15W30 oil, however by the time in ended up in my Jeep, Chrysler had changed the oil spec to 5W20 in order to meet the government-mandated CAFE targets since slightly better mileage was achieved with the thinner oil. From day one that engine was noisy with rattles, tics and knocks and always felt harsh with notable drivetrain vibrations under load and higher RPMs, and it also burned oil from new (plug fouling was also an issue); these engines in the early JK Jeeps were notorious for these characteristics until they were replaced with the new clean sheet designed 3.6L Pentastar V6 in 2011. Anyway, I started doing my own oil changes on it after a few initial dealer services and switched to a quality 10W40 oil, as I live in a hot climate and just wasn't confident that the thin oil was protecting my engine in the summer (which is why I went for a 40 instead of a 30 weight, as our summer days are often 38C/100F plus). On the first drain I did of the 5W20 myself there was noticeable glitter in the used oil, and it seemed very thin and watery draining out and was jet black. As soon as I started the engine up again on the fresh 10W40 the difference was immediately noticeable; the engine idled quietly without any of the usual tics, knocks & rattles, and when I drove it and gave it some RPMs under load the engine revved freely and was silky smooth and quiet, without any of the harshness and vibration from before. On the next drain there was far less glitter in the used oil, with none whatsoever from then on; 14 years and 130K miles later and the Jeep is still running strong with no engine issues. I suspect that Chrysler's attitude regarding using this super-thin oil in order to achieve their CAFE targets is that as long as the engines make it through the warranty period then all is good, even if the life expectancy for the engine is reduced significantly; what happens after warranty's up just isn't their problem.
Exactly. There is much misinformation out there by people who should know better or frankly actively trying to scare people into using CAFE oils. They argue tighter engines, MDS needs it and alike, but none of that is true. Engines aren't built tighter than they used to be. Part tolerances are smaller, but parts design clearances have been kept the same as decades ago.
I admit I don't know much about this particular situation, but I find it hard to believe that this motor is the same as it was 20 years ago. With that said, I would say that the engineers do know more despite what's said in the video. In my experience I can clearly hear a difference between Mobil 1 and Valvoline. Valvoline made my engine much quieter and it was still 0W20. Oils with a high moly concentration are supposed to make engines quieter. Valvoline Extended Protection would be one of those with the moly.
Also oil change interval length….should be 3000-3500 miles, not what the manufacturer recommends…lol all about making things look better, they don’t care if your engine fails after warranty.
Just remember if your vehicle is new and under warranty..always use recommended oil weight in owners manual, there goal is try to find ways not to cover it, if they investigate and find wrong oil was used your SOL
I just called about switching to the 5 30 and they said it may trigger the check engine light to go on. Is this accurate? I’ve got 2019 Lamarie and would love to switch over.
I just tried what you recommended on my 2012 1500 5.7 117,000 miles and I gotta say that it made a big difference, it’s the best my engine has sounded, especially on start up, my idle is smoother as well, thank you for making this video!
The oil filter is small, we have a 392 car it specks a larger oil filter. For some time written on dipstick was Mobil One. My wife's truck started the tick at 30,000 I bought 0w 20 or 30 it's been a while so I know the tick went away. Now that it is getting close to oil change I will try 0 w 30. 0 W oil is not watery, all the Mobil one stays cleaner longer. What a new motor has is break in oil. I do not change my break in oil until at least 3000 miles. Just because a oil may seen thin doesn't make it bad oil. The technology of today's oil especially full synthetic is made to penertrate your vital internal parts . Someone completely drained the oil and put back the drain plug on my son's truck when he parked it for a weekend. On his trip to work the warnings came on and I met him at auto parts store. Leaving filter on it held 7 quarts of oil. Did not leak a drop, and when he parked it there was no warnings like he had lost oil. Well it did manage to spin the main bering. Unfortunately he drove it 10 miles to meet me but I had figured it was shot by that time anyway even if he would have pulled off when warning came on it had gone more than half way. I sold him that truck when he was just old enough to take over payments.i used nothing but Mobil one. He drove it with the knock for a hundred miles to dealerships to trade it in it would not die. My regret was him trading it with all the nice parts I had on it lol He needed to get to dealerships. He bought a 2500 diesel due to pulling a trailer and tax write off. The dealer gave him a fair price it was a 2003 1500 off road Laramie. With any other oil it would not have gone a mile. You have to face it lose all your oil and drive it its gonna break. But it was running at second dearship where he bought at.
0W-20 is still a 20 weight oil. The w after "0" stands for "winter". Meaning it will flow like a 0 wieght during the winter in order to be able to flow and not be too thick. Going from a 20 weight oil to a 30 shouldn't be a big deal.
My 21' ram has been getting 5w20 since i bought it new and performed the "engine break in". I just got an oil change of full syn and noticed a change. Turns out they put in 5w30. The truck feels like the oil temp is at 45 degrees when its ar 200. It seems to have to work a bit harder and i notice it downshifts sooner (mds on or off). Im not liking this and will go back to 5w20 asap. And no ticking ever noticed with 5w20. Just my 2 cents.
I purchased my 5.7 1500 new in 2004, currently 350k miles. I remember on my third dealer oilchange they changed from 5 30 to 5 20, on orders from Dodge.
Factory recommended weight on yours. It isn't the bottom number that you should worry about. If it is 0-40, that is definitely a full synthetic oil which also is good
Same thing with my kia hybrid. 1.6 4cyl turbo they want 0w-20. Has valve clatter. Switched to 5w-30 and all gone. Plus you'd think with a small turbo engine with higher pressures and temps you'd want the 5w-30 standard.
This is problematic on your car because it's a hybrid. You want thin oil on a hybrid because it's going to do a lot of cold starts. You're prematurely wearing your engine using the heavy oil. Also don't use aftermarket oil filters on those Kias. Only use OEM filters from the dealer. I don't know why, but in my experience Hyundai/Kia products with aftermarket filters produces top end noise. Every time I buy one I put the OEM filter on them, the noise goes away
My 2014 hemi ram I bought with 12,000miles now has 118,000 never ticked besides the manifolds been running 5w30 with 1/4 bottle of Lucus oil stabler every 4500-5000 miles
I’ve been running 5w30 in multiple 5.7 hemis. With a lot of mileage. They get 5psi better hot idle pressure and absolutely no valve train noise or issues.
Us "older" guys have known to throw a tid-bit thicker oil in cars that tick for a lot of moons. Unscrupulous sellers still do it to cover up issues. And, to all the people saying the oil makes or breaks "2 mpgs" ... show me. No way it impacts mpg that much. Happy Saturday.
I just bout a 2012 with the 5.7. I ran all the gas out and put the recommended 89 octane gas in it and that helped. Just put two quarts into my certified used truck and it's getting even better. Still a little tick to it especially at low rpm under torque. 189000 miles. Any advice is appreciated.
The 5.7 runs really hot. Oil temps regularly get to 220 or more just driving on the highway on a regular day. The hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
I´v read that such a wide span of Viscosity makes it hard for the oil to STAY IN GRADE! It might be due to the additive package being unable to work as well as with a shorter grade of oil like 5w-30 - 10w-40 - 15w-40
I've always used synthetic oil in my hemi trucks. My 04 has never ticked, still doesn't. My 2012 had no tick, except for snapped exhaust manifold bolts. My 2021 has 5w20 as recommended oil I believe. 0w20 oil should, in theory, bring lubrication to the lifter valley faster on cold starts than 5w30. Synthetic oil is by far the way to go, no matter what. I do know that the newer hemi motors (09+) have higher compression and the heads flow better than 03-08 hemi engines. Maybe that has something to do with the 0w20 recommended oil??
@@crunklescrunkles4425 I have the Laramie edition. Leather, 4 door, 20" Rims, DVD player, amplifier, All wheel drive with high range and low range. Bought it cheap- put a few hundred dollars in parts in it and am happy with it.
i got rid of a hemi tick (only on startup) by treating my oil and gas with a can of seafoam after an oil change. stuff made a world of difference as u can actually hear it start working once added to your oil....this probably wont work if yours is very far gone or has been ignored. hope this helps someone
@@petertensuda1192 just changed my oil and I have not heard it at all but I suspect it coming back, 1/3 bottle of seafoam in the oil will be going into this oil change as soon as I get time
Thanks for posting this video! I have changed to 5W-30 in my 2015 Ram 1500 hemi, sounds Great now! No more ticking and clanking sounds. I have 51k miles on it and I tow a toy hauler that is 8300 lbs. Hopefully it will add longevity to the engine. Thanks again!
I used Royal Purple. I had the tick previously and once I switched over to royal purple 💜 👌 totally changed the sound of my truck and its a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited. ROYAL PURPLE GUYS
I used to have the tick in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 liter engine. It lasted until my first oil change at about 4500 miles. I asked the RAM dealership what oil to use, and they recommended semi-synthetic 5W-20 and not full synthetic due to possible damage to electronic monitoring sensors in the oil lubrication system. At any rate, I insisted on adding one quart of Lucas Engine Treatment. This obviously increased the oil viscosity, and the tick went away. I now have nearly 40,000 miles on my truck, and it has performed beautifully with no ticks or visible oil use between 4500 mile oil changes. Taking your advice, I plan to switch 5W-30 at my next change and continue with Lucas. My vehicle often sets for a month or longer between use, and the Lucas helps with dry starts versus 5W-20 that is long gone from the upper engine components.
my 2018 6.2 Sierra takes 0w20 and it's like water. I live in a mild climate and have used 5w 20 instead. I've been thinking of going to 5w 30. I also started using Amsoil also.
Should I try this with my charger rt. It ticks on start up but goes away after warm. Oil changes are religiously done every 5k miles. 5w20 penzzoil full synthetic.
My truck had the same issue with the 5.7 Hemi. It had 23km on the odometer and once in a while an odd ticking at startup that goes away after couple seconds. I've isolated it to the drain back valve in the stock Mopar filter. They are probably cheap and break often. I had the oil and filter changed and the problem seems gone. I wouldn't put 5W30 as the manual says to put 5w20 and this is what is certified to run into the truck. Hemis have trouble at getting enough oil at idle. I don't think you want to put in there a type with higher viscosity ... probably would get an even harder time getting oil on the top if you do. Even though it sticks more.
Most Hemi’s have there own sound and a certain sound of lifter noise. I do use synthetic oil Pennzoil. No issue yet but I have 5W-20. I live in a very cold winter climate in 🇨🇦. 5w30 should work here I think but scared to try it. Maybe after my warranty is over I shall try it. 👍
I would run the 5/30 in warm summer months and then a little thinner for cold winter months. That was a common thing we did at a garage I worked at in 1980 with various brands and years of vehicles. The tolerances weren’t quite as slim then however the heavier oil viscosity on very cold days had gas engines hammering like diesels for easily 15 to 30 seconds while the pump tried to push dam near grease viscosity liquid through the oil journals. I have an original 1968 Dodge engine in my garage that’s never been rebuilt, doesn’t smoke or hammer. It was treated to the seasonal variety oil changes. Thinner winter, thicker summer.
My 2015 RAM 1500 has the 5.7 HEMI. Mine calls for 5w20 full synthetic. I've ran Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W20 since about 9,000 miles. I now have 94,500 trouble free miles on it. I haven't really noticed much ticking on a cold start over the years. When did they move to 0w20?
I would like to know to. Mine says to use 5w 20. I have used Pennzoil Platinum it since it was New. No issues. I also throw in a bottle of STP synthetic oil treatment everytime also. And I change my oil every 7 to 8 thousand miles. It now has 52,000 on a 2019 Limited.
Full synthetic & swap oil pump to a hellcat oil pump & a catch can will literally add years to the life of your hemi & if you drive it hard change oil every 3k miles rather than 5k the 5-30 oil is fine & ya might use 5-40 in summer ...
My hemi has never had a tick.. Always Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge EP 0W-20, in winter I run a VW 508/509 spec oil. I did run a boron additive after break in that likely helped. 🤷♂
I have the 6.4 in a Challenger. Dodge recommends a 0w-40 for that, Pennzoil. Valvoline makes an oil that meets the spec (FCA Material Standard MS-12633) as does Schaefer. My only worry would be if the car is under warranty. People can run what they want, but if you go too far off the reservation, you may have issues with a claim. FWIW, the owners manual for my car lists 5w-20 for the 5.7 and 5w-30 for the 3.6. I just order the oil off Amazon ahead of time and I use the Mopar 899 filter. I change the oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Mine is a 1320, so it has the 8HP70, it's an auto, so it has MDS.
Hello Would you use 5W30 in your 6.4 Hemi? I would love to try different viscosity in a full synthetic ( Amsoil ) providing better lubrication and stopping tick tick. Pennzoil 0w40 isn’t readily available in stores.
@@josephpuchel6497 Nope. It's under warranty and Amsoil, no matter how good it is, isn't specified. I mean, as long as one uses the right viscosity and API specs, you're pretty much covered, but Dodge does have a specific spec they'd like people to use and there's only 3 companies that make it: Pennzoil, Valvoline and I think Schmitt's. You're going off reservation on two counts. That said, some have said that using the 6.2/hellcat oil pump fixes the problem. The way I look at it, as long as my powertrain is under warranty, I'll use what Dodge recommends as there's nothing for them to back out with if something blows up. I use the oil they recommend and actually change it a little sooner. Another point to look at is that 5W-30 is heavier when cold and lighter at operating temps. Is that really better? Probably not.
@@chrispainter997 And the relevance of that statement? Using heavier oil that specified for a particular engine can be a bad thing and lead to greater wear. In terms of the hemi tick, it's not from a viscosity issue, but oil flow at particular engine speeds and operating conditions and the overall design of the cam/lifters with that in mind. Some have found that the helllcat oil pump helps. It's higher volume. Of course it's your money.
@@nokoolaid The problem with the hemi is, there are no oil journals for the cam. The oil is slung from the oil pan to the cam by the lobes on the crank. From my research, it is recommended to not idle for long periods of time, because unless you’re at roughly 1500 RPMs, you’re not slinging enough oil up there to keep things lubricated. From my experience, that appears to be true due to the fact, we had a lot of cam/lifter issues in the dodge pick ups where I worked due to the trucks idling for long periods of time. When you have a vehicle with long periods of idle time, between oil changes, the oil needs to be changed in hours, not mileage increments. So I don’t see how putting a high flow oil pump on a motor would just pump more oil out of the pan, and limit the amount of oil being able to be slung up to the cam and lifters.
2012 owners manual:
"NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine must use
SAE 5W-20 oil. Failure to do so may result in improper
operation of the Multi-Displacement System (MDS)."
2014 owners manual:
"NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to
Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when
SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available"
2016 owners manual:
"MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material
Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or
equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures."
2022 owners manual:
"We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark
NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer."
So with the EXACT SAME engine with MDS, we went from "you MUST use 20 weight oil" to "it's OK to use 30 weight" to "we recommend even thinner 0W20 weight" and then finally they admitted that the watery 20 weight oils cause ticking because the viscosity is too thin and the lifters bleed down too fast, plus there is improper lubrication.
I've been saying it for years. And you can look at the 3.6 Pentastar as proof. That motor started using 5W30 when it was released in 2009. Very few lifter/cam failures. In 2014 they went to 5W20, we saw an uptick in lifter/cam failures. In 2017/2018 they switched to 0W20 and lifter/cam failures became common. I'm no rocket surgeon, but it doesn't take a PhD to correlate the reduction in viscosity with the increase in failures. I ran Redline 5W30 in my 2013 and 2017 5.7 Hemi's without issue, and run it in my 2012 and 2021 Wrangler/Gladiator without issue. I run Redline 5W40 in my 6.4 without issue. Those thinner oils aren't being used for anything other than FCA chasing a fraction of a percent better fleetwide fuel economy ratings.
I could care less about that MDS system operating, it's annoying kicking in and out and sounds like crap. I turn it off with the manual shift buttons every time I drive, I don't calculate a difference in fuel economy at all.
@@watchman11000 yea i hated it so i got a tune that can turn that on and off, really sounds like shit with a aftermarket exhaust too
Honestly your understanding of motor oils is very off. The 0W20 will be the same or more "thickness" as 5W30 in use. This is because 0W20 shears a lot less because it has a combination of better base stocks and less viscosity improvers. Also the difference between a SAE 30 and SAE 20 is about the width of a human hair. This is also why you can use a 5W30 without issue because the width of a human hair makes no difference.
@@davidporter7051 I was always told that the second number was the weight AFTER the additives. So once that's gone your down to the first number, 0, 5, 10 etc. Thats why when you first ran a Model T you used Vegetable oil, but by the time it was a junker, the clearances and tolerances were so bad you could have run maple syrup. Obviously tech has changed over the last 120+ years. But the thinner the oil, the less affective oil pressure you have in the system, to create the barrier to save the parts from wear, due to it being so freely moving in the system. Now, throw in some cold temps, maybe a Canada winter and we have a whole new ball of wax to discuss/argue/speculate on who's right or wrong.
Running 0w20 means the tolerances are supper tight for the rod bearings etc but is the oil pump the same in all these engines of the last decade? Whats the oil pressure at idle vs under load? and was it enough to pump it to the top side of the engine to keep the lifters happy.
Should have fired-up the engine while recording so the audience could hear it for themselves.
Took your advice, 5w-30 full synthetic. Engine runs smooth and quiet, no tick even after sitting for a week on cold start. This is great 👍
I'm gonna have to switch 5w-30 myself. 2013 ram 1500 5.7l 106k miles
@@RudeRaptor Give it a go, can't hurt.
I just bought a 5.7L Hemi with 99k miles gonna try this 5-w30 full synthetic.....GoMangoKitty did this fix you're tik issues situation?
@@conative598have you tried it yet? I’m having the same problem on my 19 ram 41k miles. Driving me insane 😩
@m3ttro660 did you change the oil? Did it do anything?
Thanks a Lot man, I had a tick noise in my 2014 Hemi dodge ram so I fond your video and I change the oil to 5w30 and the Hemi tick is GONE ! .... Respect from Saudi Ariba.
I thought in hot countries they run straight SAE 30. -- 0W20 is for very cold weather places.
In Singapore they run SAE 30 even in Toyota Prius.
@@somap8380 In Saudi Arabia the dealer run 5w20 full synthetic mopar oil.
Will only work for a bit. You're destined for lifter issues.
Since I bought the truck new (2019 Ram 5.7 non-Etorque), I’ve only used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 oil and I have no ticks whatsoever. No noises at all My truck currently has 120,000 miles. I’ve may change it prematurely but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I change it every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. My mechanic says I can go between 7,000 - 10,000 miles, and I believe I can, but it’s more for peace of mind. And I’m ok with that. Truck still running smooth like when I bought it.
I've told several people to run 5w30 in their Ram 1500 5.7s. The owners manual even says you can in hotter climates. I've ran several of these engines to 200k on 5w30 with zero issues. I'm also a Gen 3 Hemi builder and I've had well over 500 of these apart, and mine with 5w30 were all clean inside. 5w30, 5k religiously intervals.
Spoken like a true engine builder, however, i still do a 2k oil change like there is no filter! Imagine how clean my engine would be if i ever bought anything brand new?
@@J0897 That is why I am soo happy to have bought our Wrangler JK made to order brand spanking new (my first new vehicle). I even asked the dealer to leave it as is as it arrived and they kindly followed my request. It was there in the back of the lot, all original and the dealer let me to take off all the protective plastics. No one has worked on the vehicle since, no one has sat behind the wheel since. I have done everything on the vehicle since, even the car washes. Just sent my oil to a lab for testing, which is a first for me too. 5W30 all the way, despite the (ill) recommend factory 5W20.
Some day, I would like to buy another new vehicle, but sadly there is less and less new vehicles that interest me. Anything more than 6-speed auto is out of the question for me, which already excludes (like all???) new vehicles. Also the recent locking of ECM, via Security Gateway Module (SGM) does not sound too encouraging. As if accessing the ECM was not already hard enough. This is just what we 'needed'.
@@mrtopcat2 Tacomas are still running a 6 speed auto for now.
@@wvjeepguy8178 I agree and that is one more thing that I like about the Tacomas. But I heard that sadly 2024 models (maybe even already 2023 models) will be going to move to a 10-speed auto. I hope not. You might be a Tacoma fan and might know more. If so please share.
We currently also have a BMW 440i with an 8-speed auto (same as the new Jeeps) and what can I say, we don't like it a bit and exactly the 8-speed auto part of it. It is like driving one of those 50cc motorcycles; you find yourself in 5th gear, while you are still driving at bicycle speeds. I have no idea who likes these auto transmissions with as many speeds like a semi truck. I hear some people find it it sporty. But that is sure not me.
@@mrtopcat2 The 2023 models listed on the site are still showing the 6 speed auto, but i do know they will be going to different transmissions sometimes soon.
A transmission isn't going to be inherently worse just because it has more gears. For example, the autos in newer Wranglers are far better than the older autos from just a few years ago. there are already kits to upgrade older wranglers to the newer autos.
Hey can we hear the sound of your engine? Cold start and up close and personal.
Been running 5w-20 pennzoil platinum in mine since I’ve bought it. Sitting at 41k miles and live in north east Ohio. You recommend switching to 5w-30 still?
I've been been upping the viscosity in all of my engines for years. The 5.7 Hemi loves 5w30 I can attest. Most notable was my recent Jeep Gladiator with the 3.6 and my mother in laws Compass with the 2.4. Both specified to run 0W20. Both were extremely noisy, under all conditions - especially at operating temp. Went to 5w30 in both, and they're silent and smooth sounding with zero loss of fuel economy.
All this super thin oil is designed for the CAFE standard, and the measured fuel economy number during their initial test. It is not designed for hopping in, running to the grocery store or towing a trailer uphill - where you would never know the difference. Oil related wear failures are becoming some of the most common, across all brands.
Keep your engines alive - up the viscosity.
Switched my wife’s RAV to 5-30 high mileage and it cut oil consumption to 1 qt every 2000 miles.
My 3.6 in wrangler would tick. Put in 5w20 pennzoil platinum. What Jeep recommends. Tick is gone.
Did the same to my RAV4. 5W-30 and it doesn’t sound like a sewing machine on start up anymore. 220,000 miles and still driven 166 miles daily from North GA to Marietta GA.
Just out of curiosity how many miles on that 5.7 and have you had any cam and lifter issues.
My Tick is gone …. my 6,4 Hemi has 15.000 miles on it … ,
And now I use Castrol Edge 10w60 oil …the ticking is gone …. engine runs great … and fast on German Autobahn …,
I use it in all my cars … never problems …
I agree 100% with this from my own experience. Bought my Ram and noticed the ticking symphony at start up. I then switched to Amsoil 5W-30 and Wix filter. The ticking symphony quit and went away immediately. Just run 5W-30 and a filter that flows well.
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited 5.7 Etorque 4X4 at 1,000 miles I changed the oil installed a Pacbrake oil relocation kit and a Valvo max drain plug for no mess oil changes But most important I installed a S17 Kand P Engineering reusable stainless steel mesh oil filter that cleans to 5 microns this is the key advantage 7 TIMES MORE FLOW than a paper filter at hot idle in 85 degree weather I get 35PSI at 95 MPH 45PSI IMO the proper pressure is better than high pressure BUT MAXIMUM FLOW AND CLEAN OIL STOPS WEAR and I have an internal MAGNET to catch all the micro metals. Im about to install a BYPASS Filter to clean down to 1 micron. Flow is the answer I use 0W20 Amsoil I changed the oil again at 5,000 miles and will change again at 10,000 miles currently 8500 and she is quite as can be on cold start or hot idle. CLEAN, GREAT FLOW, MAGNET, BEST OIL AMSOIL SIGNIURE SERIES IMO will make it last I did the same thing on my 15 Longhorn Ecodiesel and had 175,000 miles no motor issues. Diesel Fuel just cost to much and with the Etorque Im at 22MPG on hwy same as the Eco but $1.50/gal less at the pump I put in a tune running 440 HP I enjoy this truck and I enjoy changing the oil now I dont spil a drop. Take care of your truck a long the way and you will have a great life together. I wash the engine every 2 weeks with Griots engine wash looks better than the day I bought it. I'm old man but I like to go fast and listen to that hemi roar HAHA yeah baby. What else am I gonna do I cant dance.
Can you post a video of your tuned hemi etorque and what type of tuner did you do?
That's really smart, may have to look into doing that myself, but I'm sorry, 22 highway is nowhere close to the Ecodiesel. 4wd Ecodiesels get 30 highway lol
@@treyroberts8124 I had a 2015 Ram 1500 Eco for 7 years and never got close to 30MPG 22 max I get 24MPG with my 22 Hemi
@John flood well the 2015 was the 1st gen Ecodiesel which was a nearly completely different motor, so not the same thing at all lol. 4WD Ecos are rated at 29-30 highway, and I personally know 3 people that average that driving to and from work.
I believe starting the engine would have been very positive and serve as further proof of the engine running better,thank you for the video.
I have a 2019 RAM 4x4 and I typically use 5w-20 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer of full synthetic. Another thing that I found that really helps stop the ticking as much in the beginning is a oil additive (metal penetrant) on top to reduce the wear significantly. From doing research many mechanics have said it is because the oil pressure doesn't allow to reach the top end of the engine, hence the 6.2 hemi engine performance oil pump is the way to go on a 5.7 hemi as it bolts right up and gives more performance volume to get that oil faster on the top end! Yes, the type of oil makes a significant difference as well, no doubt!
The hemi engines of today also have problems with heat/thaw on the manifolds to snap bolts, which is very common and recommendations are to change the manifolds out to shorty sport tuned headers. Stainless steel headers heat/thaw at rates closer to the aluminum heads than cast iron! There is a big difference between a good quality header and the cheap ones that are out on the market! The recommendations are to have quality tuned shorty headers from what I have heard from many different mechanics!
My wish is for people to take care of what they have and may it last for many years to come! I have not had very many problems with my truck since buying it and am thankful to all the engineers who worked hard with making a quality product as I hear stories out there on many different automakers of what can go wrong and/or will eventually! I changed to quality LED backup lights on my truck also, the cheap ones had resister problems and the new ones seem to by pass those problems that even extend to the key fobs with starting issues. Buy quality when you can, then they should last and perform correctly, lessons learned! Life is an adventure!... Love you brother!
Like maybe some Lucas oil when you change oil?
@@stevenhicks815 gotta watch it. I am a huge fan of Lucas products, and am new to hemi's. Not used to mds or anything like that. I did an oil change and only used about a quart of Lucas and got a misfire and the lifter code for reactivation. Changed the oil and have had no issues since. Glad I caught it soon.
@@BigHRepair so Lucas oil caused problems you think?
Not sure what the reasoning is by switching to 5w20 in winter as the cold viscosity is the same in both 5w20 & 5w30. Both are 5 weight when cold-the 20 and 30 are the viscosity when reaching operating Temps ~200°.
As far as oil additives check out this video and what they have to say, Lake Speed Jr is extremely knowledgeable on engine oil, you can check out his UA-cam channel called the motor oil geek - ua-cam.com/video/ZBrd3mDvFn8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I have a 22 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and I use penzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 also and I use the Boss purolator oil filter! I have no ticking sound at all! I'm staying with the 5w30 oil!
Hey guys auto tech here currently for dodge and worked a little bit for gm
You are spot on sir
All vehicles with the 0w-20 weight and 5w-20 weight
That weight is too thin
Helps give these new vehicles a couple extra miles per gallon but reliability goes way down
After talking to some guys who’ve been doing it longer than I’ve been alive and in combination with my own experience
If you switch to a thicker weight 5w30 or 10w30
You’ll lose a couple extra miles per gallon however the extra thickness really helps coat that cam and the lifters
Just thought I’d chime in you were spot on with your video
Yeah, the thinner oil is all about better fuel economy. Back in the day 10W40 and 20W50 were what we ran, especially in older V-8 muscle cars.
@@scottcpan68 what’s really insane is that if they didn’t have the active fuel management (afm) or if deleted and ran the thicker oil
I would be out of a job
These cars are actually made very well and borderline bullet proof what’s screwing everything up is the emission laws being passed by legislation.
I have plenty of friends who again have done this a while
Built their own race cars
Hell they’ve forgot more about cars than I could ever know
And even they agree with that statement
Take away the afm bs and you got yourself a bullet proof machine
Hemi engine do not like anything over 10-30 because it’s starts to restric in the passages and so forth exspecially in order gums up engines ! Also a Mopar tech been building Mopar for years !! Drag racer/builder
Exactly. I ve been saying this for years. The thinner oil nowadays is all for better fuel economy. Also, newer engines have a higher oil capacity than years ago. Probably cause the thinner oil burns easily and having an extra quart or two in the bigger oil pan helps keep it lubricated. I remember 4 cyl engines from the 80s tool 3.5- 4 qts
. Now they are up to 6 qts in some brands.
I have a 2011 5.7 Hemi 180,000 miles I’m going to try 5/30 or 10/30 first before I replace the cam and lifters it’s not a loud tick but I notice it more in drive not moving. It might be broken exhaust manifold bolt a shop told me it’s the cam and lifters but that’s what I’m going to confirm myself.
I have a 2011 ram been running 5-20 synthetic since new , changing it every 6,000 has the tick on start up goes away in 30sec, it currently has 300,000 km on it and still going strong , but I’ll give the 5-30 a try🤙
Sounds like your manifold bolts. We all have it the bolts break 100 percent
They don't make them like they used too
Thank you for this video bud! This worked like a charm! No more ticking sound and the engine sounds great!!
Start that mf up man all that talking about a tick on a 5k mile truck??? If you stop the tick on 100k+ mile truck and then I’ll tune in
I'm not sure if it has made a difference or not but I've always added 1 liter of diesel spec oil for all my gas engines at oil change and haven't had any issues. And a lifter from an '04 Hemi will fit and work in an '09 and later Eagle Hemi. So no, they weren't specifically designed for the zero weight oil.
Update. I am now 15k miles since I took your advice and it does run much quieter. Thank you!!!
I own a 2021 and it feels like it’s a ticking time bomb sometimes. Thanks for the video! I will be switching over to synthetic from now on.
Wtf dude, why wouldn't you right from the start
@@mikehd3904 Bet dude running 20W-50.
I've read in the technical service bulletins that the heaviest oil you can use is 5W-20 oil in order for the MDS system to function properly. The Hemi in my 2017 Longhorn was a little noisy so I thought I would try 5W-30 synthetic oil in it. MDS functions exactly the same as it did with 5W-20 synthetic oil in it. Even when the oil has not fully warmed up the MDS system functions as before. I'm even tempted to try full synthetic 10W-30 oil in it to see how that works. Have been using Pennzoil Platinum for years. 0W-20 is way too light for summer driving in my mind.
I use 6 1/2 quarts of 5W-20 Full Synthetic Castrol Edge Titanium Oil and STP Synthetic Oil Treatment (15 oz.) and no ticking whatsoever.
It's uh... Its still there. The lifter is still blown. You've just used oil to cover the sound. Perhaps your buying yourself another 10-20k miles.... The issue will not resolve itself.
When the lifters fail and you fall victim and have to fix it you will be singing a different tune !! I know it happened to my 2010 1500 ....dont listen to this guy the oil hase zero to do with the lifters failing ..its due to needle bearings breaking in the roller or in my case 2 lifters with not enough needle bearings from the factory and jammed up the roller.
The 0W20 is to meet CAFE standards, nothing more.
I switched to valvoline oil the same weight 5w20 as i had been useing and the hemi tick quit just by useing valvoline
My 2013 1500 5.7 new to me in 2015 tick went away after switching to Amsoil 5w-30 and keeping it at the top mark on dipstick which actually requires about 1/3 qt more than the 7 qts called for. 155K miles.
Yup same here
There are two things too think about:
1: The Auto Enginers don´t know what they are doing!
If they did they would not be desighning engines that will not last a couple hundred thousand miles.
What the consumer is getting is blown engines, massive recalls and Civil Suites.
or
2: They are being preasured by CEOs who penny pinch and want too cut cost or are being preasured by Tree Hugging Enviormental Politics!
In the old days we went by the Climatic Viscosity Chart that was in every vehicles owners manual.
Oils have gotten so much better but the Viscosity of oil is still the same, like Mathmatics it does not change, it can only remain stable untill it reaches the breaking point due to heat.
Todays Turbo Charged Engine run very hot, oil coolers are unable to cool the oil down, the oil breaks down to where it is not longer lubricatind like it should.
A 20 weight oil only holds up to +15c before it starts to break down.
A 30 weight goes to +35c.
Numbers should speak for themselfs!
What is the AGENDA of the auto industry?
To see you through a life time of driving with the same vehicle??
or
To "SELL NEW CARS?"
I run the 5w 20 full synthetic but I also run the Lucas oil additive new car formula and engine tik is gone. I have over 60K on my 2019 fifth gen with no issues and been running Lucas additive since 20K. The 5W 30 is absolutely fine but the Lucas additive is thick and does the same thing basically. Good video brother and happy motoring!
I had 2 hemi trucks that had higher milage I used that stuff in, thinking it would help but I got a really bad lifter ticking like almost knocking both times, seems like it gets in the lifters or something and makes them stiick maybe? I Really wouldnt use additives in these engines. just keep the oil really clean, thats just from my experience with lucas
I also tried that and couldn't tell any difference
I run 5-20 full synthetic in all my HEMIs. Ram 1500 has 195k on it. Grand Cherokee has 120k on it. Charger pursuit has 120k on it. All run awesome.
I'm glad to hear it. My purchased new 2012 RAM Laramie 1500 has 140,000 miles on the HEMI and still purrs like a kitten. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles. Regular oil.
@@williamsparks1521 I've always went full synthetic every 6000 miles. Wix xp oil filter.
@@dozervin I've actually thought about it and never got around to it for reasons unknown. My RAM is simply an incredible vehicle.
How’s your Ram running? I hear Ram trucks run great and last long even on high mileage. I fear my Ram will reach 200,000 miles in 4 years
@@juanmikel7507 My ole ram is still on the road. 198000 miles
Just keep changing that oil. 5-20 full synthetic every 6000 miles
Do not put 0w 20 oil into any engine. Unless it has specs of less than 2,000 of an inch for oil passage, you cannot get by with that there is not enough film strength in 0w 20 or any of those water oils. I had a 2007 300C and a 2009 300C at the same time, both black both blacked out windows . They ran great. A big deal here, never put standard plugs in a hemi. Put iridium spark plugs in this Mercedes inspired engine, and you will get better fuel mileage guaranteed. My 2009 when I put Bosch iridium plugs in it, driving down Woodward Avenue was getting 45 Mi per gallon. The mileage went up markedly. Always run at least half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before you do an oil change to keep the inside of that engine spotless. And regularly like every other time you drive it you have to get the revs up over $2,000 to 2200 RPM to get enough oil up onto the lifters to not fail. Why they never put oil squirters to make sure they got oil on those lifters I don't know, obviously I think they hired some old General Motors Engineers who didn't think that oil on camshafts or proper hardening of camshafts was an important issue. I've only been wrenching on cars since 1964. Maybe I haven't learned a thing. Another neat trick with any engine is what about half a quart or even a full court in some of these high Reserve oil pens. The seals in the engine will love it.
I have a 2018 300s 5.7 Hemi that I bought brand new and it had the startup tick from the showroom floor. I think the MDS lifters make the noise, but I'm not positive. The noise always goes away within a few seconds so I never sweat it. I changed the break-in oil at 2000mi and then the next change 3000mi later, both times using Penzoil 5w-20 Platinum synthetic (DEXOS) and a Purolator One filter (as you use). I have always changed oil at 3000mi intervals with my older (10w-30) engines, but I decided to try 5K intervals with this Hemi. For the first full 5000mi fill, I added "Bio Tech" Lubegard oil additive (blue bottle, 16oz), which is thin and does not really increase the viscosity. After 5K with that mixture, I can report the tick is almost completely gone since adding the BioTech and my gas mileage went up slightly and also oil temp increased slightly, indicating better heat absorption in the oil (better cooling of moving parts). I might consider following your lead and using the Platinum Penzoil 5w-30 after the engine gets some more miles on it (only 15K on it now) and see if the gas mileage suffers. I don't like the watery oil myself, but I do run 10w-30 in racing engines where others use SAE40 or 20w-50...
The oil temperature increases with increasing viscosity - always as the pressure increases.
Any one know what the part number on the oil filter is that he is talking about @4:58 time mark of the video?
Some companies changed the piston rings to low friction rings when they went to the 0-20. So you think your engine has the standard/original rings? I would figure out how to turn off the MDS system.
The ring pack in an '04 Hemi is identical to the later Eagle head Hemis. Also, my 2018 Power Wagon 6.4 has a spec oil of 0W40. I wouldn't run anything thicker than 5W40 due to the ring pack but I also add 1 liter of Diesel spec 5W40 to my Power Wagon. Been running Hemis since 2004 and no failures but fixed several for other people.
@@raywagner8016 it is my understanding that the 0-40 is superior. 0-40 is a Euro spec. Shell Rotella has a diesel oil that will work in gassers too. It is designed for the smaller European diesels that Ram and Chevy put in their half ton trucks. Bikers use in their high output engines too. I run the Penzzoil 0-40 in my Yamaha four-stroke outboards
@@Cotton088. Yes and that's why I don't have an issue running up to even 5W40 synthetic in any current gas engine. I like to run a little Rotella just because of the EP additive package. It works for me. I've never had any ring related issues. But I also wouldn't consider using an equivalent conventional oil in a light ring engine.
im thinking you are talking about the valve tick not the exhaust manifold tick
Mine has the tick, but it’s actual lifter failure. Went from 5w-20 to 30 and no difference. Putting in new cams, lifters, timing chain, shorty headers and exhaust in a couple weeks. She will be right!
I hear if you bolt on a hellcat oil pump it fixes it. It runs at a higher oil pressure. Keeps the lifters lubricated at idle.
@@jamiedinkins8593 I have heard the same from another hemi mechanic here on UA-cam.
Just a word of caution. If it’s been running like this for a while. Your cam is probably destroyed and there’s probably metal shavings throughout the engine. I’ve seen engines broken down and the rod bearing , main bearings and cam bearing are destroyed. Maybe cut your oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
@@timg185 it’s already been done months ago. Running like a top, and oil is perfect at every oil change. It was only one lifter that was faulty, and barely. I’m just very aware of noises. Thanks though
@@JBOls7 👍
I use mobile 1 synthetic 6qts and 1qt of Lucas
203,000 miles and still going strong on my 09 from day 1 new
For what it's worth
Spouse has 14 grand cherokee overland 5.7 hemi with 74,000 miles-has been a great vehicle overall but noticed the hemi tick especially on startup that would settle down soon after startup. I have taken more of a role in maintenance on this vehicle and in addition to full synthetic changes I also add lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer and I feel that it has greatly if not completely cured the tick.
Keep in mind I became a believer in the lucas oil stabilizer product when dealing with my civilian H1 HMMWV with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It is not my daily driver and when i would periodically start/use this vehicle there was a noticeable dry start "clack" for a few seconds that drove me nuts but i expected this as it may be weeks or months between use. Since using lucas oil stabilizer in the humvee it can sit 6 months and intial start is smooooth as silk......there is an undeniable difference. Just my experience take it for what its worth but I use it in my kubota diesel as well. appreciate the info and the channel.
Good video ! I have been using 5w/30 for 2 years , since we bought our 2013 ram 5.7 . I also use a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer . Change it before the "recommend" pre set 10k oil change interval . I might try rotella 5w/40 the next time its due for a change .
Lucas is great so is hot shots
That Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer works great. I have a 96 5.2L Grand Cherokee. I bought it used with a little less than 150k miles on it. It sat in a garage for a long time...years. I think it had some stuck lifters. I flushed the engine with Seafoam. The valve train seemed to be a little quieter,but it had a shakey idle. A few days later I drained about a quart of oil and added a bottle of Lucas. Within a week, the Valve train quieted down and it runs really well. Been driving it nearly every day for over a year now. Took it on a few long trips. I trust it. I'm pretty sure that some of the lifters were stuck because sometimes the tick would come and go with just regular 10w30 oil. And it always had good oil pressure.
Check your passenger side exhaust manifold, rear bolt is broken causing that "tick"
2018 Ram 1500,started using Lucas 4 oil changes ago to try and help tick,tick has only gotten louder! 74,000 miles
I’d say run 0w-30 for even better cold start performance in the winter and use 5w-30 in the summer.
In my 14’ I’ve been running 5w-20 full synthetic since day one and never have valve train noise. I now have a passenger side exhaust manifold to replace causing some cold start up noise but that’s it. I know the heavy duty application of the 5.7L said 5w-30 never personally felt I needed to run it. Worth a shot I guess if you’re hearing noise.
My 6.4 hemi makes noise on the passenger side under the truck and it sounds like exhaust or exhaust manifold noise and it goes away after about 30 seconds. Chrysler replaced the whole bank of lifters and it didn’t make one bit of difference. I have just learned to live with it
@@floydlarken3148 Its broken exhaust manifold bolts, mostly goes away after cold start as the metal manifold swells with heat. After having to weld my broken bolts out of the heads I put a straight edge on the manifolds and found they were warped severely. This is common to all manufacturers according to the vids I've been seeing on youtube. I bought new manifolds and gaskets on amazon, they were china made but were true to the straight edge and no more cold start ticking since. However my HEMI does sound like a rattly diesel when driving, maybe changing to thicker oil will help that.
@@watchman11000 Thanks for the info I will have to check more deeply into that. Appreciate it.
Experienced the exact same thing when I bought my Jeep JK Wrangler new off the lot back in '08. The old-school Chrysler 3.8L pushrod V6 in it was designed back in the 80's and originally ran on 15W30 oil, however by the time in ended up in my Jeep, Chrysler had changed the oil spec to 5W20 in order to meet the government-mandated CAFE targets since slightly better mileage was achieved with the thinner oil. From day one that engine was noisy with rattles, tics and knocks and always felt harsh with notable drivetrain vibrations under load and higher RPMs, and it also burned oil from new (plug fouling was also an issue); these engines in the early JK Jeeps were notorious for these characteristics until they were replaced with the new clean sheet designed 3.6L Pentastar V6 in 2011.
Anyway, I started doing my own oil changes on it after a few initial dealer services and switched to a quality 10W40 oil, as I live in a hot climate and just wasn't confident that the thin oil was protecting my engine in the summer (which is why I went for a 40 instead of a 30 weight, as our summer days are often 38C/100F plus). On the first drain I did of the 5W20 myself there was noticeable glitter in the used oil, and it seemed very thin and watery draining out and was jet black. As soon as I started the engine up again on the fresh 10W40 the difference was immediately noticeable; the engine idled quietly without any of the usual tics, knocks & rattles, and when I drove it and gave it some RPMs under load the engine revved freely and was silky smooth and quiet, without any of the harshness and vibration from before. On the next drain there was far less glitter in the used oil, with none whatsoever from then on; 14 years and 130K miles later and the Jeep is still running strong with no engine issues. I suspect that Chrysler's attitude regarding using this super-thin oil in order to achieve their CAFE targets is that as long as the engines make it through the warranty period then all is good, even if the life expectancy for the engine is reduced significantly; what happens after warranty's up just isn't their problem.
Exactly. There is much misinformation out there by people who should know better or frankly actively trying to scare people into using CAFE oils. They argue tighter engines, MDS needs it and alike, but none of that is true. Engines aren't built tighter than they used to be. Part tolerances are smaller, but parts design clearances have been kept the same as decades ago.
The dirtier the oil, the better it works. this is the system.
I admit I don't know much about this particular situation, but I find it hard to believe that this motor is the same as it was 20 years ago. With that said, I would say that the engineers do know more despite what's said in the video. In my experience I can clearly hear a difference between Mobil 1 and Valvoline. Valvoline made my engine much quieter and it was still 0W20. Oils with a high moly concentration are supposed to make engines quieter. Valvoline Extended Protection would be one of those with the moly.
Wow that's crazy that they would rather have their engine self destruct than upset the EPA
Also oil change interval length….should be 3000-3500 miles, not what the manufacturer recommends…lol all about making things look better, they don’t care if your engine fails after warranty.
I change oil at 2000 miles to 3000 miles lol @underscr0e
Just remember if your vehicle is new and under warranty..always use recommended oil weight in owners manual, there goal is try to find ways not to cover it, if they investigate and find wrong oil was used your SOL
Can you do a follow up video on the engine with 5:30 weight. Hows the engine doing
I got a 04 with 277k miles and I don't have the tick
Tick happens in the newer years 09+ I think
I just called about switching to the 5 30 and they said it may trigger the check engine light to go on. Is this accurate?
I’ve got 2019 Lamarie and would love to switch over.
I switched from 0w-20 to 5w-30. Engine much quieter. No check engine light. I have a 2023 1500.
I have read that using 5w30 can make the mds act differently. What is your experience ?
I use 5w30 here in florida. Engine is quieter, and I always do the electronic lock out of the mds when driving.
Can I do this on 2021 ram 2500 6.4 hemi ?
Thank You Sir, very mucn!! I"m picking up my 2019 ram 1500 at a dealership here in Canada on Fri. And it definitley has then ticking sound. Thanks
I got a 2014 Ram 1500 with 300,000 km it had a tick until I changed the oil to 5w30 and the tic disappeared.
I just tried what you recommended on my 2012 1500 5.7 117,000 miles and I gotta say that it made a big difference, it’s the best my engine has sounded, especially on start up, my idle is smoother as well, thank you for making this video!
The oil filter is small, we have a 392 car it specks a larger oil filter.
For some time written on dipstick was Mobil One.
My wife's truck started the tick at 30,000 I bought 0w 20 or 30 it's been a while so I know the tick went away.
Now that it is getting close to oil change I will try 0 w 30.
0 W oil is not watery, all the Mobil one stays cleaner longer.
What a new motor has is break in oil.
I do not change my break in oil until at least 3000 miles.
Just because a oil may seen thin doesn't make it bad oil.
The technology of today's oil especially full synthetic is made to penertrate your vital internal parts .
Someone completely drained the oil and put back the drain plug on my son's truck when he parked it for a weekend.
On his trip to work the warnings came on and I met him at auto parts store.
Leaving filter on it held 7 quarts of oil.
Did not leak a drop, and when he parked it there was no warnings like he had lost oil.
Well it did manage to spin the main bering.
Unfortunately he drove it 10 miles to meet me but I had figured it was shot by that time anyway even if he would have pulled off when warning came on it had gone more than half way.
I sold him that truck when he was just old enough to take over payments.i used nothing but Mobil one. He drove it with the knock for a hundred miles to dealerships to trade it in it would not die.
My regret was him trading it with all the nice parts I had on it lol
He needed to get to dealerships. He bought a 2500 diesel due to pulling a trailer and tax write off. The dealer gave him a fair price it was a 2003 1500 off road Laramie.
With any other oil it would not have gone a mile.
You have to face it lose all your oil and drive it its gonna break.
But it was running at second dearship where he bought at.
@@1234tellmewhatyourlookingfor
What the hell is this grammar? My god man. Even your own account name has a spelling error in it.
0W-20 is still a 20 weight oil. The w after "0" stands for "winter". Meaning it will flow like a 0 wieght during the winter in order to be able to flow and not be too thick. Going from a 20 weight oil to a 30 shouldn't be a big deal.
@@Jay-js5ikhey Karen..act like a man..we here to talk about engines not hear some drama queen mag about grammar...
All this talk and no start up???? LOL 🙂
My 21' ram has been getting 5w20 since i bought it new and performed the "engine break in". I just got an oil change of full syn and noticed a change. Turns out they put in 5w30. The truck feels like the oil temp is at 45 degrees when its ar 200. It seems to have to work a bit harder and i notice it downshifts sooner (mds on or off). Im not liking this and will go back to 5w20 asap. And no ticking ever noticed with 5w20. Just my 2 cents.
Btw my manual for my 5.7 21' big horn says 5w 20. Is yours really sayin 0w20??
That's exactly what it is. Slightly thicker oil is what will get rid of the little ticking sound
You shouldn’t have to do that for a 22 truck lol
I purchased my 5.7 1500 new in 2004, currently 350k miles. I remember on my third dealer oilchange they changed from 5 30 to 5 20, on orders from Dodge.
I use Mobil1 5W30 full syn with premium filter in my FORD 2.0L, BUICK 3.6L, Dodge 5.2L, & 3.6L.
What would you recommend for the 6.4 Hemi. Factory fill is 0w40, should I go with 5w40, or even 5w50 ?
Factory recommended weight on yours. It isn't the bottom number that you should worry about. If it is 0-40, that is definitely a full synthetic oil which also is good
Only thing I don't agree with is Purolator filters, have seen way to many cut open, numerous brands.
Yea, lots of good filters out there, like Mopar, Mobil1 K&N....not Purolator
What a shame, all this work and time and you couldn't post the pudding!! We would love to hear the tickfree hemi!! ❤
It works. I’ve been running 5w30 now for long enough to convince myself. Hemi tick is gone using 5w30
5w-30 has been the oil for the hEMI….ITS even in the manual…..where you get 0-30 is truly wrong…
Same thing with my kia hybrid. 1.6 4cyl turbo they want 0w-20. Has valve clatter. Switched to 5w-30 and all gone. Plus you'd think with a small turbo engine with higher pressures and temps you'd want the 5w-30 standard.
This is problematic on your car because it's a hybrid. You want thin oil on a hybrid because it's going to do a lot of cold starts. You're prematurely wearing your engine using the heavy oil. Also don't use aftermarket oil filters on those Kias. Only use OEM filters from the dealer. I don't know why, but in my experience Hyundai/Kia products with aftermarket filters produces top end noise. Every time I buy one I put the OEM filter on them, the noise goes away
My 2014 hemi ram I bought with 12,000miles now has 118,000 never ticked besides the manifolds been running 5w30 with 1/4 bottle of Lucus oil stabler every 4500-5000 miles
I’ve been running 5w30 in multiple 5.7 hemis. With a lot of mileage. They get 5psi better hot idle pressure and absolutely no valve train noise or issues.
Wow! 5 psi more?
Interesting. Better sealing oil I guess
Us "older" guys have known to throw a tid-bit thicker oil in cars that tick for a lot of moons. Unscrupulous sellers still do it to cover up issues. And, to all the people saying the oil makes or breaks "2 mpgs" ... show me. No way it impacts mpg that much. Happy Saturday.
I’m going to try this out soon. 15K miles on my 22 Ram Hemi. I hear the damn tick at low RPMs.
What I find crazy is why people even care about the tick. Mine had been ticking for 120k miles. 0 issues
I just bout a 2012 with the 5.7. I ran all the gas out and put the recommended 89 octane gas in it and that helped. Just put two quarts into my certified used truck and it's getting even better. Still a little tick to it especially at low rpm under torque. 189000 miles. Any advice is appreciated.
Wait until your exhaust manifolds crack next. My 2019 with 21K cracked both manifolds.
The 5.7 runs really hot. Oil temps regularly get to 220 or more just driving on the highway on a regular day. The hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
You can also run a 0W-30 as well to get the cold weather protection on cold start. Heck, 0W-40 would work well too!
I´v read that such a wide span of Viscosity makes it hard for the oil to STAY IN GRADE!
It might be due to the additive package being unable to work as well as with a shorter grade of oil like 5w-30 - 10w-40 - 15w-40
What do the dealerships say when you tell them about the ticking on a brand new engine? Obviously you’re still under warranty.
I've always used synthetic oil in my hemi trucks. My 04 has never ticked, still doesn't. My 2012 had no tick, except for snapped exhaust manifold bolts. My 2021 has 5w20 as recommended oil I believe. 0w20 oil should, in theory, bring lubrication to the lifter valley faster on cold starts than 5w30. Synthetic oil is by far the way to go, no matter what. I do know that the newer hemi motors (09+) have higher compression and the heads flow better than 03-08 hemi engines. Maybe that has something to do with the 0w20 recommended oil??
My 04 has 300,000 miles on her..she tiks in startup- then goes away
@@rdallas81 that's awesome man. I love hemis! My 04 only has around 90k on the clock. RCSB 4x4.
@@crunklescrunkles4425 I have the Laramie edition.
Leather, 4 door, 20" Rims, DVD player, amplifier, All wheel drive with high range and low range.
Bought it cheap- put a few hundred dollars in parts in it and am happy with it.
I did this and was shocked that my tick was gone. Found this video the next day. I works fellow Ram folk
i got rid of a hemi tick (only on startup) by treating my oil and gas with a can of seafoam after an oil change. stuff made a world of difference as u can actually hear it start working once added to your oil....this probably wont work if yours is very far gone or has been ignored. hope this helps someone
Did you do this once or do you have to add it after every oil change?
@@petertensuda1192 just changed my oil and I have not heard it at all but I suspect it coming back, 1/3 bottle of seafoam in the oil will be going into this oil change as soon as I get time
The government is putting so many restrictions on manufacturers... this is the by product.
Thanks for posting this video! I have changed to 5W-30 in my 2015 Ram 1500 hemi, sounds Great now! No more ticking and clanking sounds.
I have 51k miles on it and I tow a toy hauler that is 8300 lbs. Hopefully it will add longevity to the engine.
Thanks again!
I find it really wild that something with only 5k on it has lifter tick. That should be addressed by warranty.
I used Royal Purple. I had the tick previously and once I switched over to royal purple 💜 👌 totally changed the sound of my truck and its a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited. ROYAL PURPLE GUYS
I switched to valvoline and the tick quit same weight etc
What weight RP?
I used to have the tick in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 liter engine. It lasted until my first oil change at about 4500 miles. I asked the RAM dealership what oil to use, and they recommended semi-synthetic 5W-20 and not full synthetic due to possible damage to electronic monitoring sensors in the oil lubrication system.
At any rate, I insisted on adding one quart of Lucas Engine Treatment. This obviously increased the oil viscosity, and the tick went away. I now have nearly 40,000 miles on my truck, and it has performed beautifully with no ticks or visible oil use between 4500 mile oil changes. Taking your advice, I plan to switch 5W-30 at my next change and continue with Lucas. My vehicle often sets for a month or longer between use, and the Lucas helps with dry starts versus 5W-20 that is long gone from the upper engine components.
my 2018 6.2 Sierra takes 0w20 and it's like water. I live in a mild climate and have used 5w 20 instead. I've been thinking of going to 5w 30. I also started using Amsoil also.
I have an 18’ 5.3 and the tick has always bothered me. With my warranty expiring soon I might do the same.
I switched too amsoil years ago in my ram 5 30
Exactly what I did on my 5.7. Full synthetic but I’m using 5w 20 , no tick no nothing.. good video..
The higher viscosity will also protect the timing chain guides better.
Should I try this with my charger rt. It ticks on start up but goes away after warm. Oil changes are religiously done every 5k miles. 5w20 penzzoil full synthetic.
My cousin has a jeep with the hemi in it , it also has the hemi tic , i just sent him this video. Thanks for the advice👍
These Hemis and their tics.
Mine has crabs.
My truck had the same issue with the 5.7 Hemi. It had 23km on the odometer and once in a while an odd ticking at startup that goes away after couple seconds. I've isolated it to the drain back valve in the stock Mopar filter. They are probably cheap and break often. I had the oil and filter changed and the problem seems gone. I wouldn't put 5W30 as the manual says to put 5w20 and this is what is certified to run into the truck. Hemis have trouble at getting enough oil at idle. I don't think you want to put in there a type with higher viscosity ... probably would get an even harder time getting oil on the top if you do. Even though it sticks more.
Most Hemi’s have there own sound and a certain sound of lifter noise. I do use synthetic oil Pennzoil. No issue yet but I have 5W-20. I live in a very cold winter climate in 🇨🇦. 5w30 should work here I think but scared to try it. Maybe after my warranty is over I shall try it. 👍
I would run the 5/30 in warm summer months and then a little thinner for cold winter months. That was a common thing we did at a garage I worked at in 1980 with various brands and years of vehicles. The tolerances weren’t quite as slim then however the heavier oil viscosity on very cold days had gas engines hammering like diesels for easily 15 to 30 seconds while the pump tried to push dam near grease viscosity liquid through the oil journals. I have an original 1968 Dodge engine in my garage that’s never been rebuilt, doesn’t smoke or hammer. It was treated to the seasonal variety oil changes. Thinner winter, thicker summer.
@@bbrown5887 Makes sense B Brown. I used to use 10W-30 back in the day for summer and reduce to thinner oil in winter. Now just 5w30 straight through
I thought being a full synthetic oil like Amsoil it wouldn’t get too thick like in severe cold days.
I do have 2016 5.7 hemi deleted MDS and been using 0w40 & 5w40 NO PROBLEMS at all
My 2015 RAM 1500 has the 5.7 HEMI. Mine calls for 5w20 full synthetic. I've ran Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W20 since about 9,000 miles. I now have 94,500 trouble free miles on it. I haven't really noticed much ticking on a cold start over the years. When did they move to 0w20?
The spec seems to always change as you can see in my pinned comment above. The first time I saw them "recommend" 0W20 was for the 2022 model year.
@@4-LOW I seen your pinned comment above so what about 2015 can 5w30 be used?
I would like to know to. Mine says to use 5w 20. I have used Pennzoil Platinum it since it was New. No issues. I also throw in a bottle of STP synthetic oil treatment everytime also. And I change my oil every 7 to 8 thousand miles. It now has 52,000 on a 2019 Limited.
Full synthetic & swap oil pump to a hellcat oil pump & a catch can will literally add years to the life of your hemi & if you drive it hard change oil every 3k miles rather than 5k the 5-30 oil is fine & ya might use 5-40 in summer
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My hemi has never had a tick.. Always Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge EP 0W-20, in winter I run a VW 508/509 spec oil. I did run a boron additive after break in that likely helped. 🤷♂
I have the 6.4 in a Challenger. Dodge recommends a 0w-40 for that, Pennzoil. Valvoline makes an oil that meets the spec (FCA Material
Standard MS-12633) as does Schaefer. My only worry would be if the car is under warranty. People can run what they want, but if you go too far off the reservation, you may have issues with a claim. FWIW, the owners manual for my car lists 5w-20 for the 5.7 and 5w-30 for the 3.6.
I just order the oil off Amazon ahead of time and I use the Mopar 899 filter. I change the oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Mine is a 1320, so it has the 8HP70, it's an auto, so it has MDS.
Hello Would you use 5W30 in your 6.4 Hemi?
I would love to try different viscosity in a full synthetic ( Amsoil ) providing better lubrication and stopping tick tick. Pennzoil 0w40 isn’t readily available in stores.
@@josephpuchel6497 Nope. It's under warranty and Amsoil, no matter how good it is, isn't specified. I mean, as long as one uses the right viscosity and API specs, you're pretty much covered, but Dodge does have a specific spec they'd like people to use and there's only 3 companies that make it: Pennzoil, Valvoline and I think Schmitt's. You're going off reservation on two counts. That said, some have said that using the 6.2/hellcat oil pump fixes the problem. The way I look at it, as long as my powertrain is under warranty, I'll use what Dodge recommends as there's nothing for them to back out with if something blows up. I use the oil they recommend and actually change it a little sooner. Another point to look at is that 5W-30 is heavier when cold and lighter at operating temps. Is that really better? Probably not.
@@nokoolaid
any oil is going to be thicker when cold than it is at operating temp.
@@chrispainter997 And the relevance of that statement? Using heavier oil that specified for a particular engine can be a bad thing and lead to greater wear. In terms of the hemi tick, it's not from a viscosity issue, but oil flow at particular engine speeds and operating conditions and the overall design of the cam/lifters with that in mind. Some have found that the helllcat oil pump helps. It's higher volume. Of course it's your money.
@@nokoolaid
The problem with the hemi is, there are no oil journals for the cam.
The oil is slung from the oil pan to the cam by the lobes on the crank.
From my research, it is recommended to not idle for long periods of time, because unless you’re at roughly 1500 RPMs, you’re not slinging enough oil up there to keep things lubricated.
From my experience, that appears to be true due to the fact, we had a lot of cam/lifter issues in the dodge pick ups where I worked due to the trucks idling for long periods of time.
When you have a vehicle with long periods of idle time, between oil changes, the oil needs to be changed in hours, not mileage increments.
So I don’t see how putting a high flow oil pump on a motor would just pump more oil out of the pan, and limit the amount of oil being able to be slung up to the cam and lifters.
Everything in here is 100 percent true.
Do you disable the mds on your drive ?
Im an avid follower and thank you for the good videos and the time you take to do them God bless
gods a fairytale!
Never understood why the 6.4 in my work truck a 2018 is spec'd with 5W40 vs a 5.7 spec'd at a lower weight.