I just did both exhaust manifolds on my 2014 Ram Hemi. I had a bolt broken on each side. I used the Lisle kit and using an air angle drill worked slowly to drill the bolts and remove them with a taper extractor. I had a local machine both manifolds that were badly warped for $50.00. Used new bolt's painted with copper anti size. Everything turned out good.
Hey brother, not experienced at all with my new 2012 ram big horn but do you think that would work on mine ? One broken bolt and it has that ticking noise that just busts my cheeks WIDE open. Love the truck though. Thanks
@@antoniovera7313 If you have not done it yet then yes, it is the way to go. I have heard that it is even better to have the warped manifold machined because it has already warped and won't warp anymore after machining. I don't know if it is true or not. I did it because it was cheaper. 70K miles later and still no more broken bolts.
I just repaired mine. I had two broken bolts on PS, and I used a welder to weld on a nut. I think the method is superior to buying a custom plate that you’ll use once. I sanded the manifolds flat on my 6” belt sander- worked perfectly and much better than buying a new manifold that will also warp.
Did this on a friends Ram. New manifolds, gasket and bolts. 18 Lb Ft torque. about 6 months later, we did it again because bolt broke again. Sent old manifolds to a machine shop. Did the job over again and no issues for over 2 years now.
@@ricardocontreras3722 at a shop I don't know. The machine shop charged $40 per manifold to resurface. Then my friend paid me $150 for the work. So if you can do this yourself with resurface, parts and all should be less than $200
I'm not native English speaker, but I can understand every single word. Big thanks for detailed explanation, and I really appreciate your efforts. ❤❤❤❤❤
I brought off Amazon and just use the dodge exhaust manifold bolt tool..I had two bolts broke off..and this tool works really good and save me big time...100% woth the money..thank you so much for part # for it
I've owned 5 hemis pickups and 3 had this issue however 2 were under warranty. With this excellent video I feel confident I can tackle it myself, thanks.
I'm on my first and last 5.7 hemi. Manifold cracked on 2019 around 30000 miles thought I would attempt a permanent fix with set of Afe shorties they were good for about 15000 miles now passenger side header has cracked weld. It's louder than the Manifold crack. Terrible luck. Sad that the issue hasn't been corrected by FCA.
All cast iron manifolds warp-no matter the make-fords, chevy's dodge/chrysler etc... . Plane or resurface the warped manifolds and you'll not likely have this issue ever again. Once the manifolds have "heat cycled" they won't warp anymore. If the originals warped-what do you think the new ones are going to do?
@@travispruyne4431 don't forgot to take into account the MDS, you can see on the manifold the sections where the cylinders didn't shut-down. Hence the warping- uneven heat distribution.
@@rickeystone4838 There is an argument that a heat warped part, that is machined, is not likely to re-warp versus a new replacement. I have had warped brake rotors machined, and the warp never came back.
I just did all this and machined the cast iron manifolds, ceramic coated them before reinstalling. Used ARP Hardware and remflex crushable gaskets, heat taped the coolant hoses due to not putting the heatshield back on. Fingers crossed it hold for awhile.
If you have access to a welder, welding a nut onto the broken stud is easy. The weld won't bond to the aluminum head plus the heat generated from welding makes extracting the broken easier. My understanding of the warping issue is that it is caused by having an aluminum head, steel bolts/studs, and a cast iron manifold, all of which dissipate heat very differently. The aluminum head and steel bolts have some stretch to them but the cast iron doesn't and eventually warps and breaks the bolts when they exceed their stretch limit. Don't know if that's absolutely correct but it does seem to make some sense.
2019. Mine keeps on clanging for a few seconds until warm. This video helped me identify what the dealer did not. THANK YOU. I've found that this is most likely exhaust manifold leak/ warped manifold/broken studs. Seems to be a common problem with 5.7s. Only 25k or so miles on this truck and it's been an issue since I bought it. I dont trust my local dealer service dept to be honest. (They've had the truck 3x) They said this when I took video in on the 3rd visit after telling me there was nothing wrong the first 2x. "As vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved it may sound rough for a second, normal operation and characteristic of 5.7 hemi." Would have qualified as a lemon if I knew then what I know now. Stil have engine and trans warranty. Wondering what my next steps should be. Seems like FCA knows all about the issue. But they advise to just swap out manifolds and bolts, but I see that the best fix is to have manifolds resurfaced or planed and new bolts installed. IDK. Disappointed.
I've found especially on hardened metal if your run the drill at a low rpm it won't burn the bit and make it dull. At least not as fast. Also if you can dip the bit in oil periodically. So air drill might not be the best choice for the job, instead a variable speed electric drill.
Yeah and a lot of the time if the bit gets dull and stops cutting and you keep trying to drill it, it'll actually start tempering the bolt even more making it harder to drill with a new bit.
Not sure if your question in the video has been answered or not yet but they warp because of the different heat expansion rates of the aluminum cylinder heads versus the cast iron exhaust manifolds. The aluminum cools and contracts a bit faster than the iron manifolds so it literally bends the flange of the manifold when this happens over time.
I’m having this done on my 2014 Dodge Charger RT Hemi. I have the MaxCare warranty so it’s a $100 deductible cost. I am here out of curiosity on how it’s repaired. Nice job!
Really well done. I have the ticking on my 2011 on the the front of motor drivers side. Goes away when warm Is it possible to just temp seal it with some steel putty like JB Weld
Sounds like its my next repair. did split flange on drivers side. fixd noise there. still little noise from right side. ticking when cold. flange ok there. i bet i have broken bolt too. my bolts so rusted seems the head not in good shape. sounds like a job i will do in future. 2007 dodge 2500 i have. Great detailed video and explanation.
Had this fixed on my 2011 Ram 2 years ago. Randomly heard the ticking again yesterday so I'll be doing the fix again, but on my own this time as I'm out of warranty. Doesn't look too bad. Thanks for the video
I wonder if disabling MDS from day 1 each time you start the truck would cause a more even heat cycle and potentially avoid this issue all together ? First thing I used to do in my 6.4 Hemi in my 300 SRT was put the shifter into manual which would disable it. I'm thankful my Challenger Hellcat doesn't have it at all. I cannot stand it. Auto start/stop is another bright idea that needs to find the grave.
I personally can’t stand start/stop. How is shutting down engine for a few seconds going to improve gas mileage? When I stop for longer like on train tracks I can shut it manually.
I think these manifolds are faulty from the supplier or the factory is breaking the studs during the initial installation. On my 2014 Ram, I noticed the startup ticking on the test ride on a brand new truck with just a few miles on it. So it definitely came out of the factory that way.
I have to ask, mine has been doing this for the past year, and it seals up in under a minute. When it finally doesn't seal, if ever, why fix it until then unless you just don't want to hear it when first starting?? PS; with that asked, I will be doing this myself so thank you so much for the vid! Subbed
The bolts break due to tension from the warped manifold, so they'd likely still break eventually until you get the manifold planed flat again. Once it's been heat tempered it shouldn't warp again, so when you remove yours, spend the $100 bucks to have a machine shop make it flat again, replace with new OEM bolts and you should be good to go.
What is a fair charge for what you just completed including parts? I'm assuming just double it if both sides are needed. I can't get straight answers with estimates.
just found out some one prior to us getting this truck broke off a drill bit in the broke off bolt !!! Any ideas on how to get it out now ? its flush to the exhaust
My guess is why the manifolds are warping is the multi-displacement system is making some parts of the manifold cold while not running and other parts of the manifold hot causing warpage
@propstriker did you end up doing this repair on the Grand Cherokee? Think I have this issue on my 2012... Haven't investigated extensively yet. Just wondering if you ran into any Gotchas doing the repair
I've also got a 2013 JGC 5.7.. but on the drivers side, after i remove the felt wheel liner and tire, it's not open like in this video... I've got a metal plate in the way that makes it almost impossible to remove the manifold
Great video. My 2013 Grand Cherokee did the exact. Unfortunately, drilling and extracting didn’t go well, as it is extremely difficult to get a square run on the bolts. Fortunately, with the help of a $200 FCAW, I was able to tack some nuts on the snapped bolts and unscrew them.
@@billkeating9810 took me a good day. But that included buying the welder and getting it dialed in to tack nuts on. I did not have a hoist. Just jack stands. This is for the passenger side only, btw.
Same year,same truck 2019/1500 with only 20k mi. Been having a tick noise on startup since purchased. Took in to dealer twice. They say can't replicate. On 3rd time, took in video of it happeneing. Their explanation was "as vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started, has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved. It may sound rough for a SECOND, but normal operation & characteristic of 5.7 Hemi." I think BS?
@@qrf7876 Hi i am currently using redline synthetic 5w30 motor oil which is ester base loaded with additives molbendum zddp and in general its a different type of oil , Most likely it will reduce or eliminate start up noise , Oil filter K&N or Mobil one 8k with redline still looks good and performs well blackstone oil analysis conformation.
I have done Fords and GM ls motors. Same issue. Never drilled one out in my life. Throw the drill out. Learn to weld and weld a nut the the broken fastener. Even below the surface it can be done.
Yes, Cast Iron Manifold + Aluminum block + cheap Chinese bolts + catalytic converter two close to the manifold. All together contribute to this. Dodge should be ashamed of themselves for not offering a full recall on this and fixing this for those who have remained tried and true to RAM trucks. $1700 to do both sides of my 2019 RAM 5th generation Laramie with only 59K miles. I was told to prepare for it to happen again, just not sure how long it will take per the tech, but it will happen again.
pretty much always the rear studs let go, and pretty much always flush! and on these hemis they are easy to get out by welding a 5/16 nut to broken stud by a decently skilled welder!. The biggest issue is getting out the studs that aren't broken but nuts rusted round. which you cut off with a oxy acetylene torch or in my case I used my plasma arc.
Buy putting a new header won’t that cause this issue you happen when those warp as well ? I have to fix my 2014 ram and wondered the best thing to do so I don’t have to worry about this again
Those new manifold bolts come coated with some kind of thread locker/sealer, so I don't put anti-seize there. I usually do put it on rest of the bolts.
Is it possible to have an exhaust leak due to this and have it enter the cabin through the aircon intake situated below the windshield? Cuz I have a hemi, ticks like this, I get bad smell when I accelerate.
How can u tell if the manifold is broken? On mine the bolts broke of but whats making the sound is the heat shield can i just replace bolts and be done with it?
I just did the passenger side manifold bolt replacement on my 2007 Ram 1500 Hemi. I noticed in your video that the catalytic converter pipe has a little play in it when it was removed from the exhaust manifold. Mine is rigid, with no play at all, and it doesn't line up very well with the manifold, it's about half an inch off. I just forced the manifold tight with the mounting bolts, pulling the exhaust pipe with it. I am worried about that though. How do you get that play in the exhaust pipe so it can line up better with the manifold? Thanks
You should be able to move the pipe a bit with a pry bar if your exhaust is still using all factory rubber hangers. If you still having troubles you might need to loosen up the 2 flange bolts on the other side.
Is there a better after market header set i can buy so that it will be a one and done repair id imagine OEM headers will do the same after a few heat cycles
Yes it’s called bd hemi manifold. It comes with better manifold and the bolts are longer with spacers. The manifold is thicker and it looks like a better design than oem.
had the passenger side exhaust manifold replaced less than 3 years ago and it happened again. The block itself gets warped as well Ive heard so its a recurring issue forever
My almost brand new Charger RT just started doing this with less than 900 miles on it!!! WTH?? I'm wondering what good it does to have it fixed under warranty if the same weak studs are used? Are aftermarket studs available that are stronger? Maybe from Summit or Jegs?
@@stevesmith6236 it's not the studs lol studs are just as strong as any others. it's manifold being cast iron, it warping puts to much stress on them. They will do same thing regardless the bolts you need better manifolds like shorties or resurface them
@@chancesmall7026 Correct. Weird thing is, my RT only did that "extended" ticking once. it now has 1155 miles on it and hasn't ticked once since then. I picked up some awesome polished silver powder coated shorty headers from BBK which should stop tis issue once I get around to installing them.
I have a 2017 Ram 5.7. Bighorn just under 100k miles passenger side blew out 2 bolts. warrantee covered. 6months later after warrantee expired, driver side blew out 1 bolt. Took 3 weeks to finally get parts delivered to my local mechanic. Frustration to the extremes. Dodge needs to figure something out. I'm almost thinking of drilling a couple holes in the heat shield to let it breath. Looks like too much expansion/contraction on bolts like you pointed out. Would you think it might possibly work? I hope there is a recall soon. Out of pocket $$$ for a crappy design sucks
how long did this job take..? just the one side,,I have to do mine,,found broken stud/nut at rear end of manifold..and it ticks when cold, also, kept throwing check eng. light code for catalytic right side below threshold..figured the code came because of excess air into exhaust system as it passed by 02 sensors..
My 2019 Ram is at the dealership now they are replacing the manifold on the driver's side. Did the Passenger side at the beginning of the year. all under warranty. I know they're replacing the manifold 'cause they're on back order and we're waiting for it to come in
@@Brian-cf7dc I don't think dealer will put any aftermarket headers and cover the labor under warranty. BBK and JBA shorty headers are the most popular, have no personal experience and would not put them on my truck without heat wrap.
They are not stress relieved after casting. Simply machined, washed and put in the line for assembly. Flatten and reuse the originals. They’ve been stress relieved by multiple heat cycles.
Exhaust gases temperature elevates due to unburned fuel due to old spark plugs with expanded gap in it. Thats cause exhaust manifold warpage and cat converter failure aswell
bought mine 2019 Ram new. I questioned the dealership about the ticking noise and was told this is a typical hemi exhaust leak that goes away once it the engine warms up. They even went out to the lot and started up a few other hemis and they all did the same.....Design intended.
Hello , appreciate your video !! thank you !! i believe the problem is coming from metals that do not expand and retract to heat in the same manner ... i have seen issues with head gaskets that are between an aluminum head , and a cast iron block ... Aluminum and cast iron do not react to heat in the same manner .... who will fail ?? the head gasket ... :-( the same thing applies to the manifold who is made in cast iron , and again the head which is aluminum ... possibly the bolts/studs are graded too high ( 10.9 grade ) when we should be using bolts/stude the will be a lower grade ( 8.8 grade or 6.8 grade) these bolts are less BRITTLE and will be harder to break since they are softer and more FORGIVING to the metals reactions to the heat .... just a thought ... ;-)
how long has anyone drove with a couple bolts broken? mine really dont make any tick sound but i have two on driver side broke. i probably wont fix it til it becomes an issue or if it does. truck has 240k and looks like its been that way for a long time maybe even since new
This should be a recall in my opinion this is a verry common issue and they need to change the manifolds to a more tubular 1 instead will sold the problem but thats not what they want to do because they want your money thats all it is is a money thing thats it and plus it's a shitty design and its not tubular that's the main issue to much heat going down the same tube for 1 causing the warping if it was tubular it would have better flow which reduces heat on them bults not causing the area where the bult is at so less stress on them bults the dam chargers and challengers have better manifolds than the trucks you don't hear about those cracking like the trucks do because they more tubular for a better flow its only common sence not rocket science to figure that one out if you know cars 5.7 chargers/challengers same engine as the ram 5.7 just some components alittle different like the manifolds for 1.
Yes.... the reason it goes away after some time is the heat expands and seals. But as you see the colder the engine, the worse it is. But least you dont have the lifter tick.
Im ony second exhause manifold replacement on my 2015 ram with 91K miles on it. Both tome tbr warratny was expired. If you ha e the dealership repair it then kt will have a 2yr warranty but every five years is the pattern for me now
I want this guy working on my Ram. No short cuts, real pro.
I just did both exhaust manifolds on my 2014 Ram Hemi. I had a bolt broken on each side. I used the Lisle kit and using an air angle drill worked slowly to drill the bolts and remove them with a taper extractor. I had a local machine both manifolds that were badly warped for $50.00. Used new bolt's painted with copper anti size. Everything turned out good.
Hey brother, not experienced at all with my new 2012 ram big horn but do you think that would work on mine ? One broken bolt and it has that ticking noise that just busts my cheeks WIDE open. Love the truck though. Thanks
@@antoniovera7313 If you have not done it yet then yes, it is the way to go. I have heard that it is even better to have the warped manifold machined because it has already warped and won't warp anymore after machining. I don't know if it is true or not. I did it because it was cheaper. 70K miles later and still no more broken bolts.
You got that kit still?
How many miles did you have on it when the leak happened?
I just repaired mine. I had two broken bolts on PS, and I used a welder to weld on a nut. I think the method is superior to buying a custom plate that you’ll use once. I sanded the manifolds flat on my 6” belt sander- worked perfectly and much better than buying a new manifold that will also warp.
Did this on a friends Ram. New manifolds, gasket and bolts. 18 Lb Ft torque. about 6 months later, we did it again because bolt broke again. Sent old manifolds to a machine shop. Did the job over again and no issues for over 2 years now.
What kind of machine shop did you send them to get the resurfaced?
How much would this run at a machanix shop?
@@jcnlala9461 just a machine shop that has a resurfacing machine.
@@ricardocontreras3722 at a shop I don't know. The machine shop charged $40 per manifold to resurface. Then my friend paid me $150 for the work. So if you can do this yourself with resurface, parts and all should be less than $200
Thank you for the great advice and I agree with you. I’m going to look for a machine shop before I get started.
I'm not native English speaker, but I can understand every single word. Big thanks for detailed explanation, and I really appreciate your efforts. ❤❤❤❤❤
I brought off Amazon and just use the dodge exhaust manifold bolt tool..I had two bolts broke off..and this tool works really good and save me big time...100% woth the money..thank you so much for part # for it
I've owned 5 hemis pickups and 3 had this issue however 2 were under warranty. With this excellent video I feel confident I can tackle it myself, thanks.
I'm on my first and last 5.7 hemi. Manifold cracked on 2019 around 30000 miles thought I would attempt a permanent fix with set of Afe shorties they were good for about 15000 miles now passenger side header has cracked weld. It's louder than the Manifold crack. Terrible luck. Sad that the issue hasn't been corrected by FCA.
All it is going to take for me is one. So sadly disapointed with Ram, this is some really poor craftsmanship here. Pure JUNK !!!!
@@seymourbutts8850
@@seymourbutts8850 don't blame Mopar on your cheap header
@@samspace81 He said the OEM one cracked too, so it seems he can blame Mopar.
Thank you so much i thought I had a bad engine but after checking I found that the manifold is cracked 😅 so big thank you from Iraq 😊
This is the guy I want working on my truck, Great work
All cast iron manifolds warp-no matter the make-fords, chevy's dodge/chrysler etc... . Plane or resurface the warped manifolds and you'll not likely have this issue ever again. Once the manifolds have "heat cycled" they won't warp anymore. If the originals warped-what do you think the new ones are going to do?
That is exactly what I was thinking too.
@@travispruyne4431 don't forgot to take into account the MDS, you can see on the manifold the sections where the cylinders didn't shut-down. Hence the warping- uneven heat distribution.
Excellent point
Smartest thing I ever heard lol all facts what u stated
So resurfacing the manifold is the best way to go?
I was wondering about machining a warped exhaust manifold, yours is the first video i’ve seen suggesting that. Thumbs up
don't bother their cheap!
@@rickeystone4838
There is an argument that a heat warped part, that is machined, is not likely to re-warp versus a new replacement. I have had warped brake rotors machined, and the warp never came back.
by far, you are the best informative easy to follow format I’ve seen yet. And I’m gonna agree. I want you to work on my RAM 2015 SPORT
I just did all this and machined the cast iron manifolds, ceramic coated them before reinstalling. Used ARP Hardware and remflex crushable gaskets, heat taped the coolant hoses due to not putting the heatshield back on. Fingers crossed it hold for awhile.
That fixture is a must have! Great video!
If you have access to a welder, welding a nut onto the broken stud is easy. The weld won't bond to the aluminum head plus the heat generated from welding makes extracting the broken easier. My understanding of the warping issue is that it is caused by having an aluminum head, steel bolts/studs, and a cast iron manifold, all of which dissipate heat very differently. The aluminum head and steel bolts have some stretch to them but the cast iron doesn't and eventually warps and breaks the bolts when they exceed their stretch limit. Don't know if that's absolutely correct but it does seem to make some sense.
Having 16 sparks plugs will make that manifold warp 😅
2019. Mine keeps on clanging for a few seconds until warm. This video helped me identify what the dealer did not. THANK YOU. I've found that this is most likely exhaust manifold leak/ warped manifold/broken studs. Seems to be a common problem with 5.7s. Only 25k or so miles on this truck and it's been an issue since I bought it. I dont trust my local dealer service dept to be honest. (They've had the truck 3x) They
said this when I took video in on the 3rd visit after telling me there was nothing wrong the first 2x. "As vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved it may sound rough for a second, normal operation and characteristic of 5.7 hemi."
Would have qualified as a lemon if I knew then what I know now. Stil have engine and trans warranty. Wondering what my next steps should be. Seems like FCA knows all about the issue. But they advise to just swap out manifolds and bolts, but I see that the best fix is to have manifolds resurfaced or planed and new bolts installed. IDK. Disappointed.
I've found especially on hardened metal if your run the drill at a low rpm it won't burn the bit and make it dull. At least not as fast. Also if you can dip the bit in oil periodically. So air drill might not be the best choice for the job, instead a variable speed electric drill.
Yeah and a lot of the time if the bit gets dull and stops cutting and you keep trying to drill it, it'll actually start tempering the bolt even more making it harder to drill with a new bit.
Not sure if your question in the video has been answered or not yet but they warp because of the different heat expansion rates of the aluminum cylinder heads versus the cast iron exhaust manifolds. The aluminum cools and contracts a bit faster than the iron manifolds so it literally bends the flange of the manifold when this happens over time.
I’m having this done on my 2014 Dodge Charger RT Hemi. I have the MaxCare warranty so it’s a $100 deductible cost. I am here out of curiosity on how it’s repaired. Nice job!
Did they cover it? Have this issue and Carmax extended warranty. 25k miles on truck but it is a 2018... thanks.
@@johnhoover6180 yep! They done both sides. Quite as a cat!
@@theknow7557 thanks!
Just had this happen on my 2016 Ram @ 85.1K. From what I'm seeing i should consider myself lucky and it's only on the right side. Great video!
You are lucky! I just did the left side on 2019 last week, fighting the brake lines, steering halfshaft and engine deepstick is not much fun!
Nicely done video on this, best one online 👏
Really well done. I have the ticking on my 2011 on the the front of motor drivers side. Goes away when warm Is it possible to just temp seal it with some steel putty like JB Weld
Sounds like its my next repair. did split flange on drivers side. fixd noise there. still little noise from right side. ticking when cold. flange ok there. i bet i have broken bolt too. my bolts so rusted seems the head not in good shape. sounds like a job i will do in future. 2007 dodge 2500 i have. Great detailed video and explanation.
Why put cast iron manifolds back on? Go get a set of stainless shorty headers with ARB bolts. never worry about it again.
Talk about an expensive fix..... honestly I've never seen a set of headers that didn't leak after a while.
Had this fixed on my 2011 Ram 2 years ago. Randomly heard the ticking again yesterday so I'll be doing the fix again, but on my own this time as I'm out of warranty. Doesn't look too bad. Thanks for the video
Hope you bought aftermarket headers while your at it lol better if its aluminum
I wonder if mines still under warranty…. Although I’m just barely over 100k km and I bet the warranty was 100k smh😅🤦♂️
U did a amazing job this is what’s wrong with the 2014 I just got today gonna have it fixed tomorrow
I wonder if disabling MDS from day 1 each time you start the truck would cause a more even heat cycle and potentially avoid this issue all together ? First thing I used to do in my 6.4 Hemi in my 300 SRT was put the shifter into manual which would disable it. I'm thankful my Challenger Hellcat doesn't have it at all. I cannot stand it. Auto start/stop is another bright idea that needs to find the grave.
I personally can’t stand start/stop. How is shutting down engine for a few seconds going to improve gas mileage? When I stop for longer like on train tracks I can shut it manually.
Very nice video. Thanks..any reason you didn't buy the "kit" with the stainless steel bolts that are made for this repair?
Yes, this work was done under warranty, I work with what they give me.
Check with Snao-On or Mac, they have , left handed extracter drill bits
Excellent work. Thank you. I have the same ticking on my 13 ram.
Did you fix it?
I think these manifolds are faulty from the supplier or the factory is breaking the studs during the initial installation. On my 2014 Ram, I noticed the startup ticking on the test ride on a brand new truck with just a few miles on it. So it definitely came out of the factory that way.
Another video I watched guy said this happens like every 30k miles if you just keep replacing everything
There is a service bulletin for the 2014, but not my 2013.
I have to ask, mine has been doing this for the past year, and it seals up in under a minute. When it finally doesn't seal, if ever, why fix it until then unless you just don't want to hear it when first starting??
PS; with that asked, I will be doing this myself so thank you so much for the vid! Subbed
The factory manifolds are not heat treated thus warping happens after numerous heating and cooling cycles as you mentioned.
do lifter ticks quiet down after warm up also? mine sound more like metal ticking by the valve covers on both sides of engine
I wonder if high-end aftermarket manufacturers make stronger manifold bolts ( ARP) & would that help subsequent broken bolts 'on down the road' ?
That's what I'm wondering too
The bolts break due to tension from the warped manifold, so they'd likely still break eventually until you get the manifold planed flat again. Once it's been heat tempered it shouldn't warp again, so when you remove yours, spend the $100 bucks to have a machine shop make it flat again, replace with new OEM bolts and you should be good to go.
Can you please do one on the intake manifold? Specifically the Intake Short Runner Valve
Would coating bolts in anti-seize help prevent rusting?
What is a fair charge for what you just completed including parts? I'm assuming just double it if both sides are needed. I can't get straight answers with estimates.
Thank you for posting, I had a question, will the lisle kit you are using work on a 2006 5.7 hemi?, thank you again.
just found out some one prior to us getting this truck broke off a drill bit in the broke off bolt !!! Any ideas on how to get it out now ? its flush to the exhaust
My guess is why the manifolds are warping is the multi-displacement system is making some parts of the manifold cold while not running and other parts of the manifold hot causing warpage
NOPE in my 27 years of FORD F150 replaced manifolds on all 3 trucks ,ALL 8 cylinders NO MDS!!
Great video, very helpful!
Do you think the drill fixture fit my 2013 5.7 hemi Jeep Grand Cherokee??
Yeah same engine. 5.7 is a 5.7
Yes all 5.7 Hemi engines have the same exhaust manifold bolt pattern.
@propstriker did you end up doing this repair on the Grand Cherokee? Think I have this issue on my 2012... Haven't investigated extensively yet. Just wondering if you ran into any Gotchas doing the repair
I've also got a 2013 JGC 5.7.. but on the drivers side, after i remove the felt wheel liner and tire, it's not open like in this video... I've got a metal plate in the way that makes it almost impossible to remove the manifold
@@zachtison8064 how did your repair go? My 2013 jgc, same problem. Did you do repair?
Great video. My 2013 Grand Cherokee did the exact. Unfortunately, drilling and extracting didn’t go well, as it is extremely difficult to get a square run on the bolts. Fortunately, with the help of a $200 FCAW, I was able to tack some nuts on the snapped bolts and unscrew them.
How long did repair take? And did you have a garage lift that you used?
@@billkeating9810 took me a good day. But that included buying the welder and getting it dialed in to tack nuts on. I did not have a hoist. Just jack stands. This is for the passenger side only, btw.
Great job and informative thank you!
Great video...thanks 👍 👌
Great video are you doing any side work i own 2019 ram 1500 with manifold leak still under warrenty but i don't like dealership workmanship.
Same year,same truck 2019/1500 with only 20k mi. Been having a tick noise on startup since purchased. Took in to dealer twice. They say can't replicate. On 3rd time, took in video of it happeneing. Their explanation was "as vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started, has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved. It may sound rough for a SECOND, but normal operation & characteristic of 5.7 Hemi." I think BS?
@@qrf7876 Hi i am currently using redline synthetic 5w30 motor oil which is ester base loaded with additives molbendum zddp and in general its a different type of oil ,
Most likely it will reduce or eliminate start up noise ,
Oil filter K&N or Mobil one
8k with redline still looks good and performs well blackstone oil analysis conformation.
When reinstalling the manifold, are there better grades of bolts available?
Not sure it's a good thing ...........the studs are softer than the block on purpose ...
I have done Fords and GM ls motors. Same issue. Never drilled one out in my life. Throw the drill out. Learn to weld and weld a nut the the broken fastener. Even below the surface it can be done.
Cast iron manifold and a aluminum block heat and cool down are different and thats why it bolts break
The fault is Chinesium bolts. Replace with Supertanium or Grade 8 fasteners.
Yes, Cast Iron Manifold + Aluminum block + cheap Chinese bolts + catalytic converter two close to the manifold. All together contribute to this. Dodge should be ashamed of themselves for not offering a full recall on this and fixing this for those who have remained tried and true to RAM trucks. $1700 to do both sides of my 2019 RAM 5th generation Laramie with only 59K miles. I was told to prepare for it to happen again, just not sure how long it will take per the tech, but it will happen again.
Dealership in San Diego wants 1200 for driver’s side. They did passenger side this time last year.
pretty much always the rear studs let go, and pretty much always flush! and on these hemis they are easy to get out by welding a 5/16 nut to broken stud by a decently skilled welder!. The biggest issue is getting out the studs that aren't broken but nuts rusted round. which you cut off with a oxy acetylene torch or in my case I used my plasma arc.
I wonder why is that !
Buy putting a new header won’t that cause this issue you happen when those warp as well ? I have to fix my 2014 ram and wondered the best thing to do so I don’t have to worry about this again
Why did you not use anti-seize on the exhaust manifold bolts that went into the engine block?
Those new manifold bolts come coated with some kind of thread locker/sealer, so I don't put anti-seize there. I usually do put it on rest of the bolts.
Is it possible to have an exhaust leak due to this and have it enter the cabin through the aircon intake situated below the windshield? Cuz I have a hemi, ticks like this, I get bad smell when I accelerate.
Good video and nice job. Thank you
How much does this cost to repair or is there a recall on this issue
How can u tell if the manifold is broken? On mine the bolts broke of but whats making the sound is the heat shield can i just replace bolts and be done with it?
I just did the passenger side manifold bolt replacement on my 2007 Ram 1500 Hemi. I noticed in your video that the catalytic converter pipe has a little play in it when it was removed from the exhaust manifold. Mine is rigid, with no play at all, and it doesn't line up very well with the manifold, it's about half an inch off. I just forced the manifold tight with the mounting bolts, pulling the exhaust pipe with it. I am worried about that though. How do you get that play in the exhaust pipe so it can line up better with the manifold? Thanks
You should be able to move the pipe a bit with a pry bar if your exhaust is still using all factory rubber hangers. If you still having troubles you might need to loosen up the 2 flange bolts on the other side.
@@TDRAuto Thank you, I'll try that.
Is there a better after market header set i can buy so that it will be a one and done repair id imagine OEM headers will do the same after a few heat cycles
Yes it’s called bd hemi manifold. It comes with better manifold and the bolts are longer with spacers. The manifold is thicker and it looks like a better design than oem.
Awesome video very informative 👍
had the passenger side exhaust manifold replaced less than 3 years ago and it happened again. The block itself gets warped as well Ive heard so its a recurring issue forever
My almost brand new Charger RT just started doing this with less than 900 miles on it!!! WTH?? I'm wondering what good it does to have it fixed under warranty if the same weak studs are used? Are aftermarket studs available that are stronger? Maybe from Summit or Jegs?
@@stevesmith6236 it's not the studs lol studs are just as strong as any others. it's manifold being cast iron, it warping puts to much stress on them. They will do same thing regardless the bolts you need better manifolds like shorties or resurface them
@@chancesmall7026 Correct. Weird thing is, my RT only did that "extended" ticking once. it now has 1155 miles on it and hasn't ticked once since then. I picked up some awesome polished silver powder coated shorty headers from BBK which should stop tis issue once I get around to installing them.
I have a 2017 Ram 5.7. Bighorn just under 100k miles passenger side blew out 2 bolts. warrantee covered. 6months later after warrantee expired, driver side blew out 1 bolt. Took 3 weeks to finally get parts delivered to my local mechanic. Frustration to the extremes. Dodge needs to figure something out. I'm almost thinking of drilling a couple holes in the heat shield to let it breath. Looks like too much expansion/contraction on bolts like you pointed out. Would you think it might possibly work? I hope there is a recall soon. Out of pocket $$$ for a crappy design sucks
would it be better to put some aftermarket headers on that are not cast iron???
I tought so also .........BUT on many forums I read that even with headers the studs still break
how long did this job take..? just the one side,,I have to do mine,,found broken stud/nut at rear end of manifold..and it ticks when cold, also, kept throwing check eng. light code for catalytic right side below threshold..figured the code came because of excess air into exhaust system as it passed by 02 sensors..
I always try reverse drill bits
My 2019 Ram is at the dealership
now they are replacing the
manifold on the driver's side. Did
the Passenger side at the
beginning of the year. all under
warranty. I know they're replacing
the manifold 'cause they're on
back order and we're waiting for it
to come in
Great video. Thanks Filip!
Nice video, but wont that just break again why are we reinstalling cast iron?
Because some people have extended warranty and there is not much space for tubular manifolds and heatshields
So I’m going to be stuck with this. Wonder if they would let me buy aftermarket and warranty still pay for labor.
Would you be able to recommend a good aftermarket replacement?
@@Brian-cf7dc I don't think dealer will put any aftermarket headers and cover the labor under warranty.
BBK and JBA shorty headers are the most popular, have no personal experience and would not put them on my truck without heat wrap.
What a good price to pay for the work done here? Same exact side for me went out
They are not stress relieved after casting. Simply machined, washed and put in the line for assembly. Flatten and reuse the originals. They’ve been stress relieved by multiple heat cycles.
What is a reasonable price to charge to do this job?
Exhaust gases temperature elevates due to unburned fuel due to old spark plugs with expanded gap in it. Thats cause exhaust manifold warpage and cat converter failure aswell
bought mine 2019 Ram new. I questioned the dealership about the ticking noise and was told this is a typical hemi exhaust leak that goes away once it the engine warms up. They even went out to the lot and started up a few other hemis and they all did the same.....Design intended.
nice. They can't fix it so call it a design feature.
Great video!
Thank you.
Job well done!!
What did you do when you drilled into the water jacket?
I had to replace the cylinder head 😥
Hello , appreciate your video !! thank you !! i believe the problem is coming from metals that do not expand and retract to heat in the same manner ... i have seen issues with head gaskets that are between an aluminum head , and a cast iron block ... Aluminum and cast iron do not react to heat in the same manner .... who will fail ?? the head gasket ... :-( the same thing applies to the manifold who is made in cast iron , and again the head which is aluminum ... possibly the bolts/studs are graded too high ( 10.9 grade ) when we should be using bolts/stude the will be a lower grade ( 8.8 grade or 6.8 grade) these bolts are less BRITTLE and will be harder to break since they are softer and more FORGIVING to the metals reactions to the heat .... just a thought ... ;-)
Very good video.
Great content, nice work.
Thank you, EM.
You should try to use a mic welder to weld a nut it works awesome
A "mic" welder?! What is that? C'mon dude check you're spelling-it's easy and free. Do you even read what you type?
@@bmead144 chill out. This isn’t a spelling bee.
@@brysonhoaglin8618 MIG. Metal Inert Gas.
@@bmead144 your*
What's the damage $$ ?
How much it’s the cost approx for this job ? $$
Well done
Hello my name is Jesus Torres from Amarillo Tx I have that problem with my 2014 ram 150 how much is the cost to fixed
Nice video bro. Did they fix the problem on the 2022 dodge.
Nope , we already had some with broken bolts in our dealer.
Is there any odor coming out ?
how long has anyone drove with a couple bolts broken? mine really dont make any tick sound but i have two on driver side broke. i probably wont fix it til it becomes an issue or if it does. truck has 240k and looks like its been that way for a long time maybe even since new
Will the template work for the 4.7 as well?
How much would this cost to fix?
The Big Question is will this issue always be there..mine just went at 31 thousand kms 🥺
Good job!
This should be a recall in my opinion this is a verry common issue and they need to change the manifolds to a more tubular 1 instead will sold the problem but thats not what they want to do because they want your money thats all it is is a money thing thats it and plus it's a shitty design and its not tubular that's the main issue to much heat going down the same tube for 1 causing the warping if it was tubular it would have better flow which reduces heat on them bults not causing the area where the bult is at so less stress on them bults the dam chargers and challengers have better manifolds than the trucks you don't hear about those cracking like the trucks do because they more tubular for a better flow its only common sence not rocket science to figure that one out if you know cars 5.7 chargers/challengers same engine as the ram 5.7 just some components alittle different like the manifolds for 1.
Nice video!
Mine does it for like 3-5 seconds every morning but after that doesn’t bother doing it, does it mean mine are broken?
Yes.... the reason it goes away after some time is the heat expands and seals. But as you see the colder the engine, the worse it is. But least you dont have the lifter tick.
How much does this job cost$$$ in your area??
On the top left. The two bolts is there supposed to be one missing? I checked mine and one is missing?
my long tubes on my charger are leaking, thanks for the guide.
Did you put a new gasket? Or reused the old one?
Im ony second exhause manifold replacement on my 2015 ram with 91K miles on it. Both tome tbr warratny was expired. If you ha e the dealership repair it then kt will have a 2yr warranty but every five years is the pattern for me now
Hey are you located in NY? I need this exact job done. ASAP
Nope, I’m in Midwest
Thank you,