This is a very straightforward easy fix? It’s a common problem on these ram trucks🤣🤣 The dealership charges $1400 per side to fix and it will happen again it’s a junk design that has not been corrected because it’s revenue for the service department. In 2021 this is still happening to ram trucks it’s disgraceful
Hi I have the same problem on my ram 1500 what size drillbit do I need and also I heard they make a reverse drill bit if you could please let me know thank you
So my question is why bother who cares about the ticking noise what will it hurt if you just keep driving the way it is it's just going to happen again that's a problem with a cast manifold they Warp so why bother going through all that work if it bothers you turn the radio up a little bit more
@bartmankowski241 will swapping exhaust manifold for a headers actually solve the problem or is it the studs causing the failure? Mine went in, was fixed and 10k miles later it failed again. I am over this poor design and just want to fix it for good.
@ 16:50 when you start drilling into the broken bolt: Good call on the center punch. I’ve been told that the block wall there is pretty thin, and if the water jacket is breached, you’re going to have a very bad day. They sell drill guides online to help prevent accidents. Take your time with the drilling, and be careful.
I have a set of snap-on "reverse" twist drill bits. the reason is that if it catches just right while drilling, it may very well turn the bolt out at that stage.
My rebel been doing this since 60K miles. I am now at 105K miles. I think I will finally get this done. Dealership wanted $800 for this job. Will do myself this weekend. Thank You!
How's it going Allen, I was wondering if driving your truck like that gave you any other issues? I began to hear this coming from my hemi Cherokee as well and I am wanting to repair it but I need to wait a little longer because this is my daily driver Anyways thank you 🤙
@@cucobeto94 No problems at all. It's just a minior exhuast leak when the engine is cold. Once your engine warms up, the exhuast leak will go away along with the tick. Been doing it for over 40K miles with no issues.
Thanks for the video. Had the same one broke on my 17 hemi ram with 65k miles. Got it fixed in a couple hours thanks to your video and she’s quiet again!
Very good video, thoroughly explained and to the point. I have 2008 aspen, needs this done. At 75 I'm not as flexible as I use to be, so my mechanic will get the pleasure.
Just got a great deal on a '15 ram but it has this ticking noise on the passenger side. This video is perfect, gonna knock this out soon! Thank you very much for making this, should save us a few hundred bucks! You rock!
I read somewhere that Chrysler has put stronger bolts on the manifolds for newer hemis. Can’t remember what year they did this and I haven’t been able to find much information about this online but apparently the stronger bolts usually don’t snap. Since the bolts don’t snap as easy it doesn’t usually allow the manifold to warp which causes the manifold to crack instead. If I remember correctly all 5th Gen rams have these stronger bolts. My 2020 5th gen ram 1500 sport doesn’t have a loud ticking noise like this but it does sound like it has a leak coming from the manifold on the left side near the back of the engine where the manifold gets the hottest. Its not as noticeable as a broken bolt so some 5th Gen owners might not even know theres a leak so I advise people to constantly check for cracks even if there isnt any noticeable symptoms. It’s louder on cold start but doesn’t fully go away at normal running temps. I’ve noticed a slight decrease in fuel economy and acceleration recently so I think I caught it right when it happened. I drive my truck hard and these Canadian winters get pretty cold so its 100% inevitable with an oem manifold in my case. Im going to plug the tailpipes briefly and see if the noise im hearing becomes more noticeable. I’ve only had the truck for 2 years and only put 45 000 km on it so thankfully I still have warranty just in case lol
Had this on my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 5.7L Quad. I thought it was the valve cover gasket leaking on the exhaust, but now I know where the issue is now. Thank you!! 💯💯💯
Is there a history of the replaceement bolts breaking as well? What about when the OEM manifold is replaced with long tube headers, is the problem showing up there also?
Good vid. Saw in another vid that they actually sell a template for drilling the broken bolts (if you're not used to doing it). Drill into the block and it gets way worse!). One thought, lots of metal chips flying around while drilling. I'd find a way to block off the cylinder to avoid getting chips in there.
I have this issue and I’m glad I got it at 90k miles because my warranty ends at 100,000. Not to mention I’m hearing a click noise from the front of my car possibly the CV axels.
Just wondering . . . Does a leaking exhaust manifold hurt the engine, besides the ticking? Can it make one or more of the cylinders run too lean, or something? My ticking noise isn’t too bad, so I wonder if the juice is worth the squeeze. I’m inclined to just let it go.
@ryanvarner2338 once it gets bad enough. My manifold has been leaking for about a year now but hasn't tripped a code yet. I suspect if another bolt goes though, the leak will be big enough to trip a code and then I can't pass inspection here in NH. I think I'm going down the Shorty Header route, because this is the third time I'm doing this and each time the exhaust shop I go to charges me over 1k for both manifolds. I'd rather spend that much on a longer lasting (and from what I hear, you can get a bit more horse power out too) repair
I learned this lesson on a 2016. Scared the shiite out of me as I was fearing lifters or some more shiite. Long story short it turned out to be 6 busted bolts and she sounded like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang if your old enough to get it. Luckily I had 3k miles left in warranty and took her to a mechanic friend who handled it.
Next one you do get a straight edge and lay cross that manifold to see how bad it's warped. They seem to be made so cheap that they pull away from the block and break bolts.
Try it on a 12 RAM in the rust belt...lol I used the Lisle template and sort of stepped the drilling from 1/8,3/16,17/64 and used a Irwin #3 spiral tap...now for the driver's side...the template drills dead nuts.
I fixed the broken bolts on my 4th gen. One lower on cylinder 8, 1 upper bolt cylinder 7. Put in a set of shorty ceramic headers from MOES. Driverside was a pain in the ass, but it went in.
How have those shorty headers been holding up for you? I'm thinking about putting a set of those on my 15 Ram as well. This will be the third time the factory manifold has gone out on the passenger side so needless to say I'm getting kind of sick of it and figured I should just spend the money and get Shorty headers and be done with it. But do they actually last or do they start doing the same thing
Good luck on doing this on a 2009 and older in the rust belt almost every bolt breaks when taking out and an extractor won't do it have to weld a nut to the bolts to extract them about to do this on my 2003 and hoping my titanium 110 Flux core welder is hot enough to do it
Just did one of these and it looks like you didn't replace the manifold? Your old one is warped and the bolt will break again. I'd highly recommend getting back in there before that happens.
It is easier to weld a nut on the bolts. I would suggest having the manifolds machined because they are probably warped. The bolt broke because the manifolds get warped.
This is very true but not everyone has a welder, torch, gloves, face shield, etc. , that would be a very heavy investment when you can you just use a counter tap
Mine does this it is very cold but it ticks from the passenger side on my 09 Chrysler Aspen but it still does it when it is warm but it isnt coming from the upper part of the motor the sound is coming from behind the tire
would it be wise to use the manifold along with drill guide bushing to drill into the broken bolt, than remove the manifold and use the extractor to remove the broken piece?
If you replace it with the same manifold it will break again, your better off machining the old manifold because it already heat cycled. You can flatten yourself with a 36 in sander woth 36 grit belt.
Did my 2016 passenger side 2 years ago. Same bolt broken flush. I now have the drivers side with the front top bolt broken. FCA makes upgraded studded heat shield bolts for the 8 heatshield manifold bolts. They have a white paint dot on the stud tip They use them when they do the repair under warranty. Different alloy. Expensive. $10 per bolt.
nice video. if i were to suggest something, a hat with a light on it for when showing things underneath. i'm about to perform some dodge surgery myself.
@@FrostbiteRam nice okay I watched the unboxing and the price point is great. Good to hear about the fitment. Gonna go with those. Thanks for the content.
It’s going to snap that bolt again. That manifold is warped and needs machined down or it’s going to just put the strain back on the bolt until the bolt snaps again or the manifold cracks. My 2020 Ram had a bolt snap due to a warmed manifold and the warranty replaced both manifolds and hardware.
It most likely will. As an airplane/car mechanic it is 99.9% due to improper torque specs and thermo expansion for whatever materials they are using. Engineers go for a generic torque according to metals and size of bolts or nuts. They also go for a theoretical approach when designing and that’s why TSBs and recalls exist.
I am being told to replace both gaskets. Which I am not apposed to doing. But should they be charging $1000 for doing the work and parts? Does that sound right.
Do you have to resurface the exhaust manifolds? How much torque on the new bolts? Loctite? Or Neversize? Is there a gasket where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold.? Thanks for the video...I have to do this now at 250k on my 2010 2500 hemi.
Have the same problem on my 2019 Rebel and the dealership told me its a $1600+ cost to repair. How much was the total cost for those parts? Helpful video btw
I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT and I have had to replace the passenger side cat and my car has really rich exhaust but I've replaced all 4 O2 sensors. I think I have an exhaust leak on the passenger side. Did the headers warp from the heat and aren't sealed against the block anymore or did the bolt just snap? Is that why I smell exhaust?
@@FrostbiteRam I made an appointment with my mechanic and told him exactly where the leak was so hopefully this won't cost me an arm and a leg. Does Chrysler just use cheap bolts or is the problem more complicated than that? Jasper Engines says they changed the pistons on their rebuilt 5.7L engines in order to keep the combustion chamber temperature down so the bolts don't over heat and snap. I hope I don't have to go that far with it.
I replaced my manifold bolts yesterday on my ram 1500 5.7 hemi and torqued them to 22ft pounds instead of 18ft pounds. Should I back them off and retorque them or let it ride?
Why does it seem to be the passenger side almost every time , I've never had a warped manifold/ header break bolts, leaks yes, but not broken bolts. I think it's the way the exhaust is hung
Thanks for the support mopar fam 🙏 this is a very easy straight forward repair its really not that bad at all👍
This is a very straightforward easy fix? It’s a common problem on these ram trucks🤣🤣 The dealership charges $1400 per side to fix and it will happen again it’s a junk design that has not been corrected because it’s revenue for the service department. In 2021 this is still happening to ram trucks it’s disgraceful
@@sjbb838 My 20 Ram with 20 k on it goes in on friday ..BS
Hi I have the same problem on my ram 1500 what size drillbit do I need and also I heard they make a reverse drill bit if you could please let me know thank you
@@sjbb838 yikes 1400 per side is a scam lol
So my question is why bother who cares about the ticking noise what will it hurt if you just keep driving the way it is it's just going to happen again that's a problem with a cast manifold they Warp so why bother going through all that work if it bothers you turn the radio up a little bit more
When the hemi starts ticking it means it wants long tube headers so it can exhale a lot easier and making you happier.
Can you please tell me more? I like where this is going lol mine is doing the same thing
@bartmankowski241 will swapping exhaust manifold for a headers actually solve the problem or is it the studs causing the failure? Mine went in, was fixed and 10k miles later it failed again. I am over this poor design and just want to fix it for good.
But what if she a stubborn AWD?
@ 16:50 when you start drilling into the broken bolt: Good call on the center punch. I’ve been told that the block wall there is pretty thin, and if the water jacket is breached, you’re going to have a very bad day. They sell drill guides online to help prevent accidents. Take your time with the drilling, and be careful.
I have a set of snap-on "reverse" twist drill bits. the reason is that if it catches just right while drilling, it may very well turn the bolt out at that stage.
My rebel been doing this since 60K miles. I am now at 105K miles. I think I will finally get this done. Dealership wanted $800 for this job. Will do myself this weekend. Thank You!
How's it going Allen, I was wondering if driving your truck like that gave you any other issues? I began to hear this coming from my hemi Cherokee as well and I am wanting to repair it but I need to wait a little longer because this is my daily driver
Anyways thank you 🤙
@@cucobeto94 No problems at all. It's just a minior exhuast leak when the engine is cold. Once your engine warms up, the exhuast leak will go away along with the tick. Been doing it for over 40K miles with no issues.
@@allenyee4782
Yeah it does stop after the engine warms up,
Well I figured you'd fixed it, but I'll take that tip good sir 👍 thanks for the reply
Hey man having the same ticking sound on my 16 rebel, how hard was it to fix it yourself ? Thanks man
@@LuisGalindo7 I still putting it off. Just haven't really got the motivation to change the manifold yet. At 112k miles now. It started at 60k
Excellent tutorial. Exactly the issue I’ll be helping my son in law with tomorrow. Thank you!
Awesome
Thanks for the video. Had the same one broke on my 17 hemi ram with 65k miles. Got it fixed in a couple hours thanks to your video and she’s quiet again!
Awesome man 👍
How much was the repair?
That's crazy I have the same year same miles same problem 😆
Same year as you. Running into the same exact problem at 63K miles. This needs to be a recall.
@@rhet7959 dealing with the same problem right now on my 2017, using my extended warranty for repairs.
Very good video, thoroughly explained and to the point. I have 2008 aspen, needs this done. At 75 I'm not as flexible as I use to be, so my mechanic will get the pleasure.
Glad it helped
Should have checked to see if the manifold warped.
Thanks for the great video , my 2015 ram just started almost exactly at 50,000 miles
Did you get yours fixed? And do you know if they make a bracket clamp for it? Like they do for GM
Good ol' mother Mopar. The same issue plagued the 4.7 WJ. I'm glad engineers decided to not change a single thing.
Right🤣
You guys are amazing thank you for the video it truly help me
Happy to help!
I had this on my 2020 with only 28000 miles. If this has been going on for years, why in the hell haven’t they redesigned this part?
Crazy right🤷♂️
cause $
and people are still gonna buy their shit so 🤷♂️
@@Bigshoots86 guilty as charged. Incidentally, I’ve now had to have the other side done at 48000 miles. Still under warranty, but ridiculous anyway.
same
I thought this only effects the 1st gen non MDS 5.7L hemi 2003-2008 manufacture date?
Nice job doing the easy side 👍🏾😎
Just got a great deal on a '15 ram but it has this ticking noise on the passenger side. This video is perfect, gonna knock this out soon! Thank you very much for making this, should save us a few hundred bucks! You rock!
Awesome 💪
Great job.The only problem is it will happen again,the manifold itself warps
I’ve had my TRX 3 days and I hear this! How fun time to fix lol
You can probably get it done under warranty if your truck is 3 days old. The bumper to bumper warranty is 36K miles / 3 years
Yeah,go through your warranty.
I read somewhere that Chrysler has put stronger bolts on the manifolds for newer hemis. Can’t remember what year they did this and I haven’t been able to find much information about this online but apparently the stronger bolts usually don’t snap. Since the bolts don’t snap as easy it doesn’t usually allow the manifold to warp which causes the manifold to crack instead. If I remember correctly all 5th Gen rams have these stronger bolts. My 2020 5th gen ram 1500 sport doesn’t have a loud ticking noise like this but it does sound like it has a leak coming from the manifold on the left side near the back of the engine where the manifold gets the hottest. Its not as noticeable as a broken bolt so some 5th Gen owners might not even know theres a leak so I advise people to constantly check for cracks even if there isnt any noticeable symptoms. It’s louder on cold start but doesn’t fully go away at normal running temps. I’ve noticed a slight decrease in fuel economy and acceleration recently so I think I caught it right when it happened. I drive my truck hard and these Canadian winters get pretty cold so its 100% inevitable with an oem manifold in my case. Im going to plug the tailpipes briefly and see if the noise im hearing becomes more noticeable. I’ve only had the truck for 2 years and only put 45 000 km on it so thankfully I still have warranty just in case lol
Ya bolts are cracked and natorius for 4th gen and below and the exhaust manifold is what is common to break on the 5th Gen
Every ram owner is here , I have this problem too at right side which I heard is much easier than left side , must fix it so I can sell it
Had this on my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 5.7L Quad. I thought it was the valve cover gasket leaking on the exhaust, but now I know where the issue is now. Thank you!! 💯💯💯
Is there a history of the replaceement bolts breaking as well? What about when the OEM manifold is replaced with long tube headers, is the problem showing up there also?
How is this not a recall? This has been going on FOR YEARS!
Good vid. Saw in another vid that they actually sell a template for drilling the broken bolts (if you're not used to doing it). Drill into the block and it gets way worse!). One thought, lots of metal chips flying around while drilling. I'd find a way to block off the cylinder to avoid getting chips in there.
Thanks for the tip!
Pro tip: disconnect the y pipe on BOTH sides before you do anything else. Helps so so much
I have this issue and I’m glad I got it at 90k miles because my warranty ends at 100,000. Not to mention I’m hearing a click noise from the front of my car possibly the CV axels.
Thanks for the great video. Getting ready to do my sons 2012 Ram. Drivers side front corner bolt is broken the same way
Thanks
Just wondering . . . Does a leaking exhaust manifold hurt the engine, besides the ticking? Can it make one or more of the cylinders run too lean, or something? My ticking noise isn’t too bad, so I wonder if the juice is worth the squeeze. I’m inclined to just let it go.
I believe the o2 sensor is downstream of this, so yes, it does cause issues
@ryanvarner2338 once it gets bad enough. My manifold has been leaking for about a year now but hasn't tripped a code yet. I suspect if another bolt goes though, the leak will be big enough to trip a code and then I can't pass inspection here in NH. I think I'm going down the Shorty Header route, because this is the third time I'm doing this and each time the exhaust shop I go to charges me over 1k for both manifolds. I'd rather spend that much on a longer lasting (and from what I hear, you can get a bit more horse power out too) repair
I learned this lesson on a 2016. Scared the shiite out of me as I was fearing lifters or some more shiite. Long story short it turned out to be 6 busted bolts and she sounded like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang if your old enough to get it. Luckily I had 3k miles left in warranty and took her to a mechanic friend who handled it.
how did you flatten the warped exhaust manifold
Bolt extraction is very similar to a root canal I had done
Headers for the win!
Thank you guys so much!
Thanks for stopping by the channel 👍
Just had this done to my 2016 ram 1500 Bighorn 5.7 hemi! :-)
Next one you do get a straight edge and lay cross that manifold to see how bad it's warped. They seem to be made so cheap that they pull away from the block and break bolts.
That's a clean 2012 😮
I have a 2012 from Wisconsin and it looks nothing like that. My upper control arms are a rusty mess LOL 😆
Try it on a 12 RAM in the rust belt...lol I used the Lisle template and sort of stepped the drilling from 1/8,3/16,17/64 and used a Irwin #3 spiral tap...now for the driver's side...the template drills dead nuts.
Would getting a whole new exhaust system fix the issue? Been thinking of getting a borla system
Headers and good hardware will.
I fixed the broken bolts on my 4th gen. One lower on cylinder 8, 1 upper bolt cylinder 7. Put in a set of shorty ceramic headers from MOES. Driverside was a pain in the ass, but it went in.
Awesome 👍💪🔧
I am probably going to wait in till it won’t pass inspection because it probably won’t hurt anything
How have those shorty headers been holding up for you? I'm thinking about putting a set of those on my 15 Ram as well. This will be the third time the factory manifold has gone out on the passenger side so needless to say I'm getting kind of sick of it and figured I should just spend the money and get Shorty headers and be done with it. But do they actually last or do they start doing the same thing
@@chrishorn2028 mine have held up really well with no issues at all
2013 Ram 1500 Reg cab 5.7l Sport 4x4 , My right side broke at 55k. Then at 104k which is my present miles , the left side broke. Both rear bolts.
Good job many blessings
Good luck on doing this on a 2009 and older in the rust belt almost every bolt breaks when taking out and an extractor won't do it have to weld a nut to the bolts to extract them about to do this on my 2003 and hoping my titanium 110 Flux core welder is hot enough to do it
My 2020 might have this problem.
Thanks for the vid,
(that Jack sucks...)
Just did one of these and it looks like you didn't replace the manifold? Your old one is warped and the bolt will break again. I'd highly recommend getting back in there before that happens.
This seems very easy to do , Where is your shop located
thank you! nicely done
Thank you too!
Thanks man. And not to expensive to do.
No problem 👍
Esa fuga y sonido no generaba una falla de fuerza de la camioneta en subidas y en arranques
It is easier to weld a nut on the bolts. I would suggest having the manifolds machined because they are probably warped. The bolt broke because the manifolds get warped.
This is very true but not everyone has a welder, torch, gloves, face shield, etc. , that would be a very heavy investment when you can you just use a counter tap
Same thing on my 2021 5.7 at 28k miles..... switching to headers
Love the video brother 👍 What extractor did you use to remove the broken bolt?
Anyone have an estimate on how much this repair would cost? I’m in NC.
Mine does this it is very cold but it ticks from the passenger side on my 09 Chrysler Aspen but it still does it when it is warm but it isnt coming from the upper part of the motor the sound is coming from behind the tire
would it be wise to use the manifold along with drill guide bushing to drill into the broken bolt, than remove the manifold and use the extractor to remove the broken piece?
No need
A new manifold is a must ... They warp ..
The bolts break because the manifold is warped. Can I ask why the warped manifold was not replaced?
If you replace it with the same manifold it will break again, your better off machining the old manifold because it already heat cycled. You can flatten yourself with a 36 in sander woth 36 grit belt.
Because it wasn’t his truck 🫥✌️
Thank you
just live with it 🎉
what does that cost?
I got the same issue on my '14...... shop estimated me $500 per side..... Crazy!! I do not have the ability to do the job either.....
What kind of drill and type of drill bit was that? All these videos appear the bit goes right into the stud like butter.
Just a good Dewalt metal bit
Mine has a broken bolt, but mine ticks all the time. Is that normal also, I noticed you said yours goes away when it warms up, mine doesn't
I would definitely start with repairing the leak and go from there.
I know its not a major deal, but still, what a pain in the hooey just to fix a broken bolt. A stronger design is needed.
Great Vid. Thx
Without addressing the warped manifold, won’t the issue reoccur?
Yes have it resurfaced at a machine shop. Now u have a heat treated flat manifold.
Will you please let me know where you bought your parts
Dealer
@FrostbiteRam i did the passenger side yesterday resurfaced manifold and replaced gasket and bolts . I will do driver side next week . Thanks.😊
Did my 2016 passenger side 2 years ago. Same bolt broken flush. I now have the drivers side with the front top bolt broken. FCA makes upgraded studded heat shield bolts for the 8 heatshield manifold bolts. They have a white paint dot on the stud tip They use them when they do the repair under warranty. Different alloy. Expensive. $10 per bolt.
Awesome information good to know👍💯
I cannot find FCA online anywhere. Can you give us a Link to those FCA Exhaust Manifold Bolts?
Rams and Makitas, thats how you identify the best 💯
Definitely
Any recommendations for California street legal aftermarket headers? 2017 1500 5.7
Check the exhaust manifold thats what was ticking on my buddys new 1500 5.7 hemi at around 20k miles
nice video. if i were to suggest something, a hat with a light on it for when showing things underneath. i'm about to perform some dodge surgery myself.
Gonna do this to mine prob this month. I'm honestly tired of hearing it upon start up lol
got info i been looking for great video btw
When you tapped it did you put in a helicoil?
No the threads was fine no need
What drill bits and extractor sets did you use? I have one on each side in the back
Just a cheap kit from harbor freight.
Sweet - So I would assume that the manifold was not warped *
Nope normal ok
@@FrostbiteRam Thanks
@@brad1367 time will tell🍻
Did you not resurface the manifold flat? I'm installing longtubes when this happens
Nope but now we have longtubes
@@FrostbiteRam wwhat brand did you go with?
@Brad Nugent I have jba on my truck Frostbite and Texas speed on project storm. I will say the Texas speed fits very well.
@@FrostbiteRam nice okay I watched the unboxing and the price point is great. Good to hear about the fitment. Gonna go with those. Thanks for the content.
I'm assuming you have headers on frostbite. Did you hammer the rivets on the felpro gaskets that are in the way for the flange on the header?
It’s going to snap that bolt again. That manifold is warped and needs machined down or it’s going to just put the strain back on the bolt until the bolt snaps again or the manifold cracks. My 2020 Ram had a bolt snap due to a warmed manifold and the warranty replaced both manifolds and hardware.
Your new ones will do the same. The manifolds are junk and will warp before long.
Welding a nut on is easier and less risky if you have access to a welder. Also, you want to sand or machine the manifold flat to remove the warp.
Is it the same for a dodge charger rt
Pretty much
Where do I buy the screws ?
Autozone has them
Hope i get my car back today went through warranty on thursday they said theyll call me today i been up cause i miss it lol!
Reall good video
Appreciate it
Why didnt u replace the manifold? Dont they break due to warping?
Never seen it on my rams🤷♂️
Do you think it’s better to replace the manifold or machine and reuse it?
I just clean and reuse never had a issue yet.
@@FrostbiteRam Better advice is to check it with a straight edge. For the low cost of a new manifold I'd recommend new every time.
Just re machine it flat on a belt sander worked perfect on mine
I am wondering why the OEM part/bolt broke and why the replacement part won't suffer the same fate?
It most likely will. As an airplane/car mechanic it is 99.9% due to improper torque specs and thermo expansion for whatever materials they are using. Engineers go for a generic torque according to metals and size of bolts or nuts. They also go for a theoretical approach when designing and that’s why TSBs and recalls exist.
Donny Baker?! I didn’t know you were a mechanic!?
I am being told to replace both gaskets. Which I am not apposed to doing. But should they be charging $1000 for doing the work and parts? Does that sound right.
Sounds pretty expensive lol
@ Mopar Motorsports Can this happen with a dodge charger 5.7 hemi?
Yes
This was a great video!
Thanks 🙏
Do you have to resurface the exhaust manifolds? How much torque on the new bolts? Loctite? Or Neversize? Is there a gasket where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold.?
Thanks for the video...I have to do this now at 250k on my 2010 2500 hemi.
No need
@@FrostbiteRam100 percent you need to. The warped manifold put some much tension on the bolt it snapped. It’s going to happen again.
They don't all get quiet after warming up especially the SRT charges. Louder as u accelerate and losing power
Have the same problem on my 2019 Rebel and the dealership told me its a $1600+ cost to repair. How much was the total cost for those parts? Helpful video btw
Why did you not crank the truck to hear if the noise actually went away?
Noise long gone 🔧
Have a 2016 ram and the ticking goes on and off, haven't checked manifold yet
I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT and I have had to replace the passenger side cat and my car has really rich exhaust but I've replaced all 4 O2 sensors. I think I have an exhaust leak on the passenger side. Did the headers warp from the heat and aren't sealed against the block anymore or did the bolt just snap? Is that why I smell exhaust?
Probably so
@@FrostbiteRam I made an appointment with my mechanic and told him exactly where the leak was so hopefully this won't cost me an arm and a leg. Does Chrysler just use cheap bolts or is the problem more complicated than that? Jasper Engines says they changed the pistons on their rebuilt 5.7L engines in order to keep the combustion chamber temperature down so the bolts don't over heat and snap. I hope I don't have to go that far with it.
Do you think a double gasket system would help as this seems to be an ongoing problem?
No has nothing to do with the gaskets the problem is the bolt brakes and looses torque on the gasket causing it to leak.
@@FrostbiteRam Ok thanks, just a thought.
Grinding the manifold flat after they warp from heat cycle seems to work so it never happens again I was told
The bolts that weren't broken I was able to remove with a regular ratchet almost as if they don't get torqued properly
How much is the kit for this..
Cheap not much at all I think like less than 100$ for everything
I replaced my manifold bolts yesterday on my ram 1500 5.7 hemi and torqued them to 22ft pounds instead of 18ft pounds. Should I back them off and retorque them or let it ride?
I'd let it ride man
@@FrostbiteRam thanks man! I was worried about that.
Why does it seem to be the passenger side almost every time , I've never had a warped manifold/ header break bolts, leaks yes, but not broken bolts. I think it's the way the exhaust is hung