Thank you ShareTheRepair for making and sharing this LG refrigerator repair video. I rarely comment on videos, but your video and several follow-up tips in the comments guided me to success with my DIY repair for my 2016 LG refrigerator. This is a deeper troubleshooting and explanation than other refrigerator repair videos as the symptoms are different than the every-day type issues that are most often covered. I’m sharing this in case others like me with limited appliance repair experience run into some of the issues I saw in the comments and experienced in my repair. The fix for me was to jump both the pink and the red/white wires and now everything is working with our ice and water dispensers. As mentioned in the video, I didn’t think the issue was my water inlet valve as our ice maker was making ice, but neither the water or ice dispensers were working. Additionally, I had just replaced the water inlet valve a week earlier because of similar (but slightly different) symptoms, and I was confident that was working…more on the inlet valve later. Unplugging the refrigerator and turning off the water supply, I followed all the steps in this video except for removing the front door panel to check the dispenser switches…a commenter noted this and his reasoning made sense for my situation. Testing the harnesses by the door hinge and on top of the left door with my multimeter, I got no reading on the pink wire as shown in the video and got a consistent 24.7V on the blue wire. I tested dozens of times as there was no going back after cutting wires in the harness. Based on a commenter’s note, I went with 16g wire and I used the gray twist connectors (like in the video) that are rated for connecting two 16g wires. I connected the pink wires via jumper as shown in the video and measured with my multimeter to find that there was no voltage, but there was continuity, so that was a step in the right direction. I plugged the refrigerator in, turned on the water supply and my symptoms remained the same…no ice or water was dispensing, but the lights came on for the ice and water. Looking back through the comments, someone mentioned that they had to put the hinge cover back on the hinge so the door sensors would work properly and I tried that…that got me another step further as now I could hear the motor run for the ice maker (but not the water dispenser if I recall correctly), but no ice or water would come out. That symptom is very much like what is seen when the water inlet valve has failed. Unplugging the refrigerator and shutting off the water supply, I swapped out the new water inlet valve I had just put in with another new one (continuity tested positive on both) and there was no change in my symptoms. Looking further through the comments, someone mentioned they had to jump the red/white wire to fix their water dispenser. That made sense as both those wires are on the same harness and if one was broken somewhere in the door, then the other one could be, too. I connected the red/white wires via jumper and plugged in the refrigerator and turned on the water supply. Ice and water came out and we were back in the game. Final steps were to make longer wires for my jumpers to better accommodate the door opening all the way and I notched the hinge cover near the front as well as the main door harness cover to better route the wires. I won’t be surprised if I have to do this again as there isn’t an easy way to take all the stress off the wires, but at least I’ll know what to look for. A failed water inlet valve will have the symptom of no water coming out but the dispenser will hum as it’s trying to dispense water. Ice may still be dispensed, but none will be made. I happened to have an extra water inlet valve on hand because I thought that it had failed again in the same week since I got the replacement part off Amazon. I ended up ordering the “real” part from another vendor and had an extra. The symptom for the broken wire(s) is that neither the water or the ice dispenser will work (and no dispenser motors will hum), but ice is still being made as the water inlet valve is working. Once I got the pink wire jumped, the ice dispenser was working but the water dispenser wasn’t and there was no hum from it. A commenter noted that for him, jumping the red/white wire solved his water dispenser issue and that fixed it for me as well. In my case, my issue was resolved by jumping both the pink and the red/white wires and I had replaced a failed water inlet valve the week prior.
Good job!! Your patience and research with this repair is what got you to resolution! These are the bones to any successful troubleshooting and repair. Also a very well description on your findings. For anyone else reading this, remember just because I only found one wire broken inside the door does not mean that there aren’t other wires broken inside that door. You have to be certain that you do not have multiple wires broken to be successful in repairing this symptom. So far, I have ran across multiple fridge with this same scenario and one of these fridges had a total of 4 broken wires. Good luck to everyone.
This is exactly what happened to my LG refrigerator. Thank you for taking the time to share your repair…it helped me diagnose and fix my fridge without spending $550 on a new door just because of one broken 14 gauge wire.
This was posted 3 years ago and still helpful! Had the same issue and was literally about to buy a new fridge because the ice/water dispenser not working was driving me crazy but then I stumbled on this video 🙏🏼 thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for the video. The estimate to replace the door was $740 and I was able to do this with a $35 Amazon order of parts. I drilled a hole in the top of the plastic the controller was attached to at the top of the door to run the wire, and notched the plastic that covers the hinge so the wire wouldn’t be as stressed. Thank you again for posting, you have helped a lot of people!
Thanks! Exactly what was wrong, for the many questions about running the jumper best to cut a notch out out close to the front hinge of plastic cover then another to board cover. Point is eliminate any wire movement when door opens. Cosmetically easily hidden as well. Saved $800
This is exactly what needed to be done when ours broke. Now the wife is satisfied (temporarily) as well. I foolishly thought it didn't fix it at first for a minute... until I put the door hinge cover back on and the magnetic "door is closed" sensor engaged. Thank you kindly.
Hi, I have the exact refrigerator with the exact same problem, followed all your steps and repaired my fridge , now I have water, thank you so much for the advice ,saved me a ton of money from a repair man.thanks
So how did you hide wiring? So its just the top wire connection on top of fridge to ice and water? I am confused as to the wiring on door, is that just left in the door when its cut and sp!iced to new wire?
Thanks for the useful video. It worked for me. The only recommendations I have to improve the video are 1) more instructions on how to safely route and conceal the wire and 2) more safety tips included in the video such as when to remove power. Again thanks for posting!
Thank you!! I owned a design and engineering company for 15 years and can't believe LG designed the wire harness in a way that the wire fails after repeated door open/closing. But, sure enough I used the steps in the video to diagnose the same issue. I fixed it in a similar way and water and ice for all now!
THANK YOU SIR!!! Had the exact same symptoms, and your fix worked perfectly. I carefully drilled small holes in each cover and made sure to leave enough wire for door swing, then taped it down. LG = LOW GRADE in my book...😄 Where's the recall??
Wow I have the exact problem with my LG refrigerator and this awesome video had solved the problem. I found the broken wire and install a jumper and it works great. Thank you so much for this comprehensive video. You are awesome.
Thank you so much for the info. It worked for me. I had a repair guy out and he wasn't able to fix it. Great information, and very well explain This should be a recall, as it appears to be a ongoing problem .
Thank you for this video. This was exactly my problem and after a week of no water or ice, we finally have our refrigerator back. I ran my wire by the hinge and drilled a small hole through the top of the auger control board for a seamless look with no tug.
I was having the same trouble with the same part. No one could replace the part! I had a professional come out, etc., but nothing worked. I replaced two other parts: no good. Then I watched your video, did the pink wire, did the white/red wire, and now I have ice and water again. $5 fix and about 10 minutes. Thank you very much!
Thank you so much sir I am new to appliance repair and I am learning so much from you please continue to share with novice such as myself it is truly warranted be blessed and have a great night
Work for me too, thanks so much. Seems odd that everyone has the problem with the pink wire and none of the others in that bundle. Some critical design flaw. Mine started working sporadically, then only with the door partially open and the door switch magnetically closed and, finally, completely dead. Back in business. Certainly wasn't going to buy a new door for a single 16g wire. Would rather buy a new fridge from a competitor out of spite.
You are great help to solve my similar problem , I had issue with only water wasn't dispensing. I end up jumping white wire wire strip. LG tech want to change whole new door . estimated @ $500. Thank you for your well explained video.
Thank you for sharing video. This fixed my problem. Never would have thought of the power supply issue as it broke just after plumbing work in the house. Thanks for DYI fix.
This fixed the problem! I didn’t see the need to remove the water and ice dispenser as it was very unlikely both micro switches had failed. It’s tricky running the wire from under each cover. I used black tape to hold the wire in place along the top of the door and use black wire as it is somewhat visible at the door hinge. I thought it was hilarious that the first step is cut the power, and he’s working with the power on.
Thank you so much for this video, this helped me repair my refrigerator. The pink wire was broken, as soon as I replaced the wire the water and ice dispenser started functioning. Thanks again!!
Guess this explains why I was getting shocked by my fridge once and a while! My pink wire was broke about 4" down in my door. Thanks for the video, it fixed my water and ice dispenser!
Thank you, I fixed my LG lfx28968st with same issue. Mine was blue wire, no continuity from hinge connection down to dispenser control board which is located on back of dispenser control panel assembly. I was able to run new wire down door to water solenoids and splice there. All working now!
Glad you found a way to run that wire down the door. From what it seems, hiding the Wire at the hinges or running it down the door is the hardest part of this process for most folks.
Worked for an hour. Got it to keep working by adding the cut pink wires that wasn't connected to anything on both ends to the splice. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for post. I have the same issue and was looking around UA-cam to find a solution. I have extended protection plan with home depot which is covering the repair and waiting for new door. I just thought it was ridiculous that it was determined that the whole door needed to be replaced(design flaw I guess) and refused to believe it. At least I will know what to do if it happens when my warranty expires.
Hi, thank you for informative video, your fridge looks the same as ours, we got a 2018 LG LMXS30796D. The issue is it will dispense water like a glass or 1/4 of the pitcher then will stop completely while pressing the switch or flapper, then need to wait for an hour or more for water to dispense again, then it will stop and need to wait again, like a cycle. I already replaced the water inlet valve but the issue remains the same. The fridge is still making ice properly and the water pressure is good, it’s the water dispenser not functioning properly, I can still hear a click and hum whenever I press the flapper but no water for a while then will come again after few hours. Spent almost a day troubleshooting with LG customer service but didn’t fix the problem and other company advised to change water inlet valve but the problem still the same. Do you think it’s the wiring the issue, the one you posted? Please advise, your response would be highly appreciated.
Hello, first thing first, no I do not think it’s the broken wiring inside the door. I would start looking at your water filter. Has it been replaced recently? If not, replace it. Also, diagnose the water filter head and make sure it’s not the culprit. Make sure you’re replacing the correct inlet valve. If yours is a French door unit (freezer on the bottom) more then likely you have primary inlet valve and secondary inlet valves. Primary typically supplies secondary and secondary typically supplies ice maker and water dispenser. Also, check water reservoir inside the fridge section and make sure it’s not freezing. If it is then you need to troubleshoot why the water reservoir is freezing. Let me know what you find out with your fridge.
By far the most information I have found for this specific fridge and the litany of dispenser issues. However, the pink wire 0's out for me. The red/white wire registers 1. What is the red/white wire for? Back story is the water hasn't worked since we moved in but the ice maker would make ice and dispense. When I would press the water dispenser I could hear the valve in the door hum but nothing would come out. The previous owner says the water always worked but the ice didn't for them. Now, as of a couple weeks ago, the ice quit making ice, and the ice dispenser stopped dispensing ice. The tray keeps dumping as if it has made ice but obviously there isn't any ice to dump. While testing for continuity, I could intermittently get both the ice maker and water dispenser to attempt to dispense when the door was opened to a certain angle, but that has since stopped cooperating. That's what leads me to believe there was/is a broken wire in the door. But the pink and the red/white are the only two matching wires in the harnesses tested in the video. Also.. I have replaced the rear water inlet valve, and the front panel that includes the reservoir, filter, and valve in the door and neither replacement has made a difference. Our nearest LG authorized repair tech is about an hour away and wants $150 just for the service call because it's $75 per hour and the clock starts when they roll out of their parking lot. We just have to avoid buying houses with LG fridges! Last house had an LG fridge that the compressor went out, and this one has an LG fridge that the dispenser doesn't work!! Any help is appreciated! Being a frugal individual that has much more important things to spend his money on (daughters), folks like you sharing your knowledge on UA-cam to help others save some money, is very appreciated.
Hey Tony. I'm not sure as to what the red/white wire is for but it sounds like you got it right. Sounds like there may be some broken wires inside the door. However, have you checked for 120V at the valve while trying to dispense water or when the ice maker is calling for water? Also confirm that your fridge does not have a secondary water valve inside the fridge section somewhere (some fridges have 2 water valves). If you do not receive 120V at the inlet valve when the water dispenser is activated, you may have issues with your harness or a bad control board (Often times its a bad control board in this situation). However if you do receive 120V at the water inlet valve when the dispenser is being activated then most likely you are dealing with a broken wires inside the door.
@@ShareTheRepair Just got back to this project.... For me, the blue wire was broken and the red/white wire was broken. The red/white goes to the dispenser control board so I was able to jump that one like you did the pink wire. However, still no dispensing of water even though I can hear the rear water inlet valve actually kicking in and running now. It pressurizes the filter and the reservoir but doesn't activate the in-door water inlet valve. So I am guessing the blue wire is the cause of that.... Does anyone know what the blue wire is for? For all the things that are on the internet, apparently a wiring schematic for this fridge isn't one of them. Oddly enough, the ice dispenser auger has quit working as well now, which I have read could be caused by the ice sensors not sensing ice. If true, that would make sense. If doors weren't so expensive, I would just replace the door and be done with it because if two wires were broken, I'm sure the others aren't far behind. For now, we'll just continue to have a big fridge with a non-functioning ice and water dispenser.
Yup that is so strange that they put wire to be bent like that and route it inside the door instead of making a channel in the plastic at the top. Thanks for the fix.
when my water and ice would not dispense at first, i put an earth magent on top of the left door board cover. water and ice would then work when we had the door open (left one only, it still thought it was shut). kind of funny, but easy and quick fix. now, that's finally stopped working...ice still being made and water dispenses for a split second, then stops. will try this and see if it works...it's either that or a new fridge...yikes! thanks for posting the vid!!
Thanks very much. Had exactly the same problem. Called LG support and ran the so called SMART DIAGNOSIS, nothing helpful. After watching your video and following the instructions, problem solved!
My LG refrigerator stopped dispensing water 1 year ago, however it continued to make ice. We have a reverse osmosis system at the kitchen sink. Now it stopped making ice. I opened up the control panel at the top of the door and got a strong electrical smell. I am thinking that board has something on it burned out. I will order a replacement board.
@@MrRuso316 I don’t think I will be of much help since diagnosing a problem requires testing things with multimeter, however the parts you need to test are; water inlet valve, water pressure, control board, dispenser module, frozen water line, filter, filter head. Good luck.
@@ShareTheRepair thanks, i will try to fix it, i did what you did in the video and it works but no constant it was come and go, i have to open the door completely and then press the water dispenser and water came out ok, and that needed to be done every time to get the water dispenser work, now no meter what i do, no water came out, only the ice dispenser works,
Excellent video.....LG repair tech said the black wire ( common ) was broke inside door. Can we apply the same fix to the black wire ? Tech said we need a new door and NONE are available.
If it truly is the black wire broken inside the door then yes, I don’t see why not. Keep in mind there is always a possibility that there could be multiple wires broken. I would perform a continuity test on all the wires to be sure that multiple wires aren’t broken.
Thank you so much for your time and effort, I have an older 2 door model, there is ice in the icemaker but when I press the lever I hear humming noise, but no ice or water are dispensing, any thoughts?
My question is what you ended up doing with the new wire. Is it just running across the top of your fridge? Or is there a way to run it thru the top of the door? Thanks
Thank you for the video. I have a very interesting issue around this. My water dispenser works when the left door is open 45 degrees OR more. I do that by using a magnet to replicate a closed door by holding it up against the top switch. However, when I start moving the door to the close position and cross the 45 degree mark approx. the water stops dispensing. Any ideas or thoughts?
Hey thank you for the video I did and water just flows nite! Before I did this repair my ice maker was doing ice but didn't dispense it, now no is not making any ice... Please reply if you would. Thanks
If I understood you correctly, your ice maker was making ice just not dispensing? If that is the case, this video was not meant for you. This video is for ice maker not making ice and water not dispensing. Did you verify that you had broken wires before performing this bypass?
@@ShareTheRepair Thank you for your prompt response! Yes I did test the pink wire and was dead, as soon as I made the bridge water flow... What do you think happened with the ice maker that stopped making ice? I found a refurbished LG ice maker ensemble at Amazon very cheap. What do you think?
Hello, hoping you can still reply to questions regarding this issue. I followed your video step by step and also found the broken cable. I bypassed it just as you showed but I still get no water no ice coming out of the dispenser. I checked voltages coming into and at the top board so I know I have 120V feeding in which I didn't before. I've also replaced the board AT the dispenser for a new one before I even tried the cable. Any thoughts ? Thanks again for a great video, Mitch
You’re gone have to dig in that wiring harness and see if there are more broken wires. You may try placing the ice maker into service mode and see if ice maker reacts. Other then that, not much more I can offer without physically observing the problem unfortunately.
@@ShareTheRepair Again, great video. I went back and made sure all connections were made correctly. Now all is good, must have missed a step. Thank you !
Thanks for the video I had same problem and it’s fixed now,, but I really want to fix the pink wire i have tried but I don’t know how to get to it? Any tips how to get to the pink wire? Thanks again
If the pink wire is broken further down inside the door, then your home have to find a way to by pass it directly to where it comes out of the door and goes into the ice and water dispenser control board.
Great video which gave me the confidence to tear in and check continuity on the pink wire, which measured no resistance. After completing the bypass, I didn't see any differences in the function of the water or ice dispenser. Any reason to pull off the front cover to check the limit switches, which seem to be working. My other thought was to replace the circuit board powered by the end of the pink wire, any ideas where to find it?
Okay, so you said you checked the “continuity” of the pink wire. This means you disconnected the pink wire from both connectors, you placed one of your voltage meter probes on the pink wire at the connector by the door hinge and the other meter probe from your volt meter at the pink wire that is entering the ice and water dispenser control board. With your meter set to “ohms (Ω),” your meter showed “OL” or a flashing “1”. Is this the test you ran on the wire?
If there are any broken wires inside the door then it’s a high chance your ice maker will not function. Depending on your unit, there could be between 2-3 blue wires in the wiring harness and most certainly one of them goes to the ice maker thermistor. Thermistor is responsible for sensing the ice maker temperature. If control board does not see ice maker temperature below 15° F then ice production is terminated. Once temperature of ice maker is below 15° F then ice production is resumed since ice maker is cold enough to freeze water with in allotted time.
I have a similar model, and I had a similar issue, although it probably is because I, and someone else, didn't look at the instructions. The top LED has lock and a siren icon for the Alarm/lock button on the bottom. If the lock is lit up, hold the Alarm/Lock button for about 3 seconds, a chime should play and the lock icon should go out.
Hi, great video! So, the red wire in my bundle has 120v, but my pink wire only has about 4.5v. Does this sound correct? Also, looks like my pink wire is broken but if it is only getting 4.5v think I may have a bigger problem. Any thoughts? Thanks
One way to find out is to bypass the pink wire. It’s a stranded wire so that means it could be just hanging on by one strand at the break point which will cause a low voltage reading at the end of the wire. I would say to go ahead and bypass that pink wire. What else you got to loose?
After you found out the problem, and you connected the pink wire both end to have power for ice/water control board. I saw the middle pink wire sitting on top of refrigerator. How did you hide that? Thanks!
I just had to find the best way of getting it out of view. Honestly there are so many ways. Zip ties, sticky tapes, duck tape. Just go wild and use your imagination. Nobody will be able to see it up there anyways. Unless your family is in daily contact with Bigfoot then I’d say you have a bigger issue to deal with than just the visible wires.
This worked to make my water and ice work again. Unfortunately, the fridge and freezer are now warm. I can hear the compressor running. Any ideas on what might have happened?
Since you’re dealing with an LG, more than likely you either have a sealed system leak or a failed compressor which are also common problems with these fridges.
Last night the ice panel touch buttons stop working and are no longer lit as well as the ice maker stop working too. The water dispenser has not worked for some time. Over a year. We also noticed the drawer temperature controls on the middle drawer and freezer drawer is lit but it will not allow us the adjust the temperature. It’s like it’s stuck. What are your thoughts. Pink wire?Are the 2 related issues? By the way we have the exact fridge you are showing.
Great video, but I’m having the exact opposite problem, mine started dispensing water and ice on its own, I had to open the door to stop it, then I locked the control panel to keep it stopped, any ideas for this problem?
Hey Peter. The main control board is responsible for dispensing water and ice. Unless there is a water dispenser control board on top of the left door. Basically what you need to check is micro switches behind the dispenser/user panel, control board that sits on top of left fridge door(if your unit has one), broken wires inside the left door(I have a video on this issue), or main control board is glitching. Good luck!
Hi, I have LG gf5d712sl it neither dispensing water or ice both. I checked removing tubing at the back and pressing lever and it's dispensing water which tells me that water inlet valve is working. so I tried this technique but didn't work. Looks like colour coding is bit different. Any help please.
My issue is that the dispenser control board burnt... Bought another and replaced and it worked! Ice and water! For 30 seconds and then burnt that new one.. sigh. Any ideas what to look for next? Thanks.
Either you need to find an OEM quality part or you need to start testing things with multimeter to determine what is causing the control board to burn. Something is grounding. When did it burn again? When you were using the water dispenser? When nothing was being activated? During dispensing of ice? Crush? Cube? Need a lot of information to be able to give you some advice.
We have LG LRMDC2306S. During first month we’ve had 4 service visits for craft ice maker not working. Each service call reveals the water feed line to the ice maker is frozen solid although the freezer temp is set at +4F. We added two thermometers into the freezer that log temp and they both show 4F so temp sensor is good. Does the craft ice maker line have a heater/defrost? Latest tech wants to switch out water feed line but by this point we have zero confidence LG know how to build a fridge.
Kris, your problem is definitely not a common problem but does tend to happen. Where does the ice make water feed line freeze? Close to exiting into the ice maker? Close to entering the freezer compartment? If I was the tech, I would be checking a couple of things. Check the ice maker water line heater. Check ice maker water inlet valve to ensure it’s not slowly leaking water through its diaphragm.
Pink wire did not have continuity. When I jumpered it like shown and restored the power, the front control panel appeared normal but LEDs on inside wall of the fridge were on and dim. The ice maker and water still wouldn’t work. Any ideas why the fridge would behave this way?
@@ShareTheRepair - Thanks so much!! Decided to get rid of the LG. Took delivery of a Bosch 800 series today and encountered a weird issue. Plugged Bosch into the standard outlet, and a GFCI protecting that circuit (Fridge is NOT plugged into GFCI) keeps tripping. I replaced the GFCI to rule that out and still the same issue. When plugging into a different circuit via extension cord, the fridge works fine. That particular extension cord circuit is also protected by a GFCI (not plugged into that though) that doesn't trip. Any ideas what could cause this?
My broken wire is the thick orange wire... do you know where it goes? The orange wire is responsible for calling water to the icemaker (solenoid) but im not sure if it connects to the sub pcb.
So, I tested pink and the red white wire for continuity and all was well. So I replaced the board thinking it was the PCB but same issue. When I press water you can hear a click from that door PCB. The other wires didn’t look like they run to the PCB - what other wires could it be?
I have an LG fridge with the same problem. No water no ice. This suggests to me you should rule out a clogged filter, and just replace the filter. The next point of failure, in my opinion, will be the water inlet valve since the issue is No Ice and No Water. This is a $50 part if you buy locally and less online. I tested my valve and found it to be bad. After replacing the valve, I now have water and ice. Again, if you have no water and no ice, this water inlet valve should be your first stop IMO. There are UA-cams that shows how to remove and replace this valve.
I did the above fix and it worked great. However, over time, the water dispenser stopped working. I am getting a humming sound so I know it is getting power. Is there another wire that can be jumped to correct this likely broken other wire? Thanks in advance!
@@ShareTheRepair The humming is coming at the water dispenser when pushed in trying to get water, not at the control board. I replaced the primary water valve at the back of the refrigerator, and the secondary water inlet valve (in the door) but neither helped. Still no water from the water dispenser, but the ice maker/ice dispenser is still working perfectly. I have the same refrigerator as in your video. I also replaced the water dispenser micro switch, but again, no luck, so that's why I was thinking it could be another broken wire in the door as that's all I could think of? Thank you!
Yes could very well be a broken wire in the door. That particular fridge has a design flaw which cause one or more wires to break. Could also be a water/ice dispenser control board.
@@ShareTheRepair Figured it out. I removed the upper left hinge and another wire going from that same connector that you jumped to the control board in this video, must be broken as if I wiggle that wire bundle as it is entering the left door I can get the water dispenser to intermittently work. Is there a way to figure out if there is a wire responsible for the water dispenser that can also be jumped directly to the control board on the door as you did with the pink power wire in this video?
There you go. If you have the wiring diagram for your fridge, all your answers are located in it. If not, you may try searching for the model number online to see if you get lucky and find one.
I have a similar symptom. (Ice works water doesn’t) . I think it is because the pilot valve isn’t getting energized. I am thinking my red/white wire has this problem. Is the red/white wire in that connector supposed to be connected to the red/white wire running out of the PCB? I am measuring open at moment, but a bit scared to short it and test, because I don’t want to just energize something random before verifying that should actually be connected.
Well it’s simple to verify your hypothesis. Have someone engage the water dispenser while you check the voltage coming to the water inlet valve. You will have to find the correct valve if it’s the French door unit since a lot of these unit have primary and secondary valve groups. However I am unable to confirm weather the wires running out of PCB are same color as the ones inside the door. I wouldn’t risk shorting the wires together as this has a high chance of shorting the control board. Wires tend to switch colors after coming out of control board in refrigerators. Not always, but enough of the times that I would alway reflect back to schematic for correct color codes.
@@ShareTheRepair To make triple sure, I verified that the inlet valve leads mapped to the red/white wire coming through that connector at the top of the door using a multimeter. I went ahead and trusted what I saw in the schematic that the Red/White wire coming from the PCB was "supposed" to be the inlet control line, and therefore, "should" be the red/white wire going into that connector. All of this was consistent with the red/white wire being broken inside the door. I jumped the red/white wire coming from the PCB with the red/white wire going into that connector.... and it worked! Water is flowing! I imagine I will have to fix the pink wire the same way one of these days. Thanks for your content!
@@kuhlmanateJust wanted to say thanks for posting this question and following up with the result. I’d patched the pink wire a few years ago, but ran into the same issue as you. Ice, no water. I tried replacing both pumps to no result, and became fairly confident the issue was wiring, but couldn’t determine the right one, even with the diagram. I was close to buying a new door, but didn’t want to spend $400 on something with the same design flaw. Finally came back to this video to browse the comments and found yours. 10 minutes later, running water. Thanks again.
@LukeRussellplus you’re most welcome. It’s hard justifying spending $400 on a door that has simple broken wires in it. It wouldn’t be that difficult for manufacturer to install an access port for the wire harness inside the door. But what do I know…
I'm having the same problem, but it's happening intermittently. Is there any other switch that might be causing the problem? Because in my case, sometimes it works, and then all of a sudden it doesn't. When I press the switch to dispense water or ice, I do hear something engage, but no ice, no water. A few hours later, after opening and closing the door a few times. It works. It's almost like it's something tied into a switch tied with opening and closing the door... any advice?
Yes I have some advice. Don’t overthink it. Your fridge is not as smart as your trying to give it credit for. If you open the door and your ice maker magically starts working, you definitely have broken wires in the door.
Hey there I have a question, I did this procedure to my fridge & I had no change in either function for the water dispenser or ice dispenser. My fridge lock door alarm actually started chiming as if I had the door not fully closed. Any ideas on what I should do next? Thanks again for your time & advice.
Hey there. This repair does not apply for all fridge models. My first question is your fridge the same model as the on in the video? If not then the color coded wiring may be different. There is a magnetic door sensor in some models inside that hinge cover. Make sure the hinge cover is reinstalled and the door sensor didn’t slide out on accident.
@@ShareTheRepair hey there & thanks for answering me back. Yes sir I have the exact same fridge. Which is why I just did exactly as the video said & then that's what happened. So unfortunately the fridge is still not dispensing water or ice. I'm going to check the diagram just to make sure my wires are the same as yours as far as hot wires are concerned. But all my wires & connectors look exactly as in the video...so I'm up for any suggestions & thanks again for any all advice.
@@royrequena3 did you perform the tests on the wires before performing the repairs? If your wires are testing properly, you’re dealing with a different issue that has the same symptoms. Could be a bad water dispenser ice dispenser control board. Without performing tests per wiring diagram, not much I can tell you.
@ShareTheRepair there is a capacitor block on that control board...you will have to test the value..if you haven't fixed it you may want to try it. It's for the auger motor! He shows it on the schematic in his video!!
Could you please share how you got the panel off? In the video it seems you already have a big gap around the edges so you took off the panel easily, how did you get the gap in the first place? Mine is so well embedded into the door and can't make a gap at all
No video for that process unfortunately, however you will need something plastic (not to scratch the surface of fridge) and thin to insert in between the panel and fridge. There is a wide variety of plastic wedges and pry bars available on Amazon.
How do wires just”BREAK” inside the bundle like that? I just bought an LG-4 door unit(not exactly like the ice/water control panel shown here)is this a design flaw inherent to this manufacturer?
John, this is very much a design flaw. I suspect some of the wires may be to tight when installed thus when you open the door it causes a “pull” on the wires and since they’re tightly packed in there, they can only withstand so much “pulling” until they finally break. Another guess could be that something inside the door is rubbing against the wires when you open and close the door. Which in end result will also cause broken wires.
I’m not sure which switch you’re referring to, but if it’s the door switch then the answer is yes and no. If the door switch is bad then the problem will be similar but not exactly the same. The dispenser will not be operating because the fridge will think that the door is constantly open and therefore should sound the “open door” alarm.
No videos however no matter how you replace the wire, unless it is ran inside the channel, the wire will break over time so be sure to compensate for that by running a longer wire and once it breaks just splice it back together.
I replaced the water inlet and the ice maker. Water is is still not being dispensed into the ice tray. Even have I hold the reset button and the tray calibrates. Water will not pour out into the tray. I can fill cups of water on the front of the fridge, but water isn’t going to the ice maker. Any ideas?
@@ShareTheRepairit’s model LMXS28626S. Like I said if I hit the reset button on the ice maker it resets the dispenses and it does the spinning calibration reset, but no water comes out. On this model, there would be a wire in the left door that controls the water going to the ice dispenser ?
@@echolectricstudios2870 Any fridge that has an ice maker will have a signal wire running from ice maker to either control board or valve that signals the ice maker water valve to turn on to allow water flow into ice maker for a preset duration. (around 5 seconds) If the signal is not reaching the water valve, water will not turn on.
Hello, I have a similar problem, in my house the ice dispenser works and the ice comes out correctly and the relex is also heard on the computer that goes to the door, and when I ask for water the relex is also heard but no water comes out and it is also listen to the valve that is inside the door, the ice machine works correctly and I checked the back valve, a new one was placed and this is the same problem, how could you help me?
I have the same problem. Initially, just the water but then ice stopped also. Looks like I’ll need a new door! Very frustrating. Currently attempting to remove the inner plastic away from the door but I’m not confident.
@@robaxford3105 Same for me! I can't decide if I just need to buy a whole new door, or can it be fixed by replacing that pink wire (as in this video)? Can you tell me what you ended up doing?
![[LG Refrigerators] Water Is Not Dispensing](/img/n.gif)
Thank you ShareTheRepair for making and sharing this LG refrigerator repair video. I rarely comment on videos, but your video and several follow-up tips in the comments guided me to success with my DIY repair for my 2016 LG refrigerator. This is a deeper troubleshooting and explanation than other refrigerator repair videos as the symptoms are different than the every-day type issues that are most often covered. I’m sharing this in case others like me with limited appliance repair experience run into some of the issues I saw in the comments and experienced in my repair.
The fix for me was to jump both the pink and the red/white wires and now everything is working with our ice and water dispensers.
As mentioned in the video, I didn’t think the issue was my water inlet valve as our ice maker was making ice, but neither the water or ice dispensers were working. Additionally, I had just replaced the water inlet valve a week earlier because of similar (but slightly different) symptoms, and I was confident that was working…more on the inlet valve later.
Unplugging the refrigerator and turning off the water supply, I followed all the steps in this video except for removing the front door panel to check the dispenser switches…a commenter noted this and his reasoning made sense for my situation. Testing the harnesses by the door hinge and on top of the left door with my multimeter, I got no reading on the pink wire as shown in the video and got a consistent 24.7V on the blue wire. I tested dozens of times as there was no going back after cutting wires in the harness. Based on a commenter’s note, I went with 16g wire and I used the gray twist connectors (like in the video) that are rated for connecting two 16g wires. I connected the pink wires via jumper as shown in the video and measured with my multimeter to find that there was no voltage, but there was continuity, so that was a step in the right direction.
I plugged the refrigerator in, turned on the water supply and my symptoms remained the same…no ice or water was dispensing, but the lights came on for the ice and water. Looking back through the comments, someone mentioned that they had to put the hinge cover back on the hinge so the door sensors would work properly and I tried that…that got me another step further as now I could hear the motor run for the ice maker (but not the water dispenser if I recall correctly), but no ice or water would come out. That symptom is very much like what is seen when the water inlet valve has failed. Unplugging the refrigerator and shutting off the water supply, I swapped out the new water inlet valve I had just put in with another new one (continuity tested positive on both) and there was no change in my symptoms. Looking further through the comments, someone mentioned they had to jump the red/white wire to fix their water dispenser. That made sense as both those wires are on the same harness and if one was broken somewhere in the door, then the other one could be, too. I connected the red/white wires via jumper and plugged in the refrigerator and turned on the water supply. Ice and water came out and we were back in the game.
Final steps were to make longer wires for my jumpers to better accommodate the door opening all the way and I notched the hinge cover near the front as well as the main door harness cover to better route the wires. I won’t be surprised if I have to do this again as there isn’t an easy way to take all the stress off the wires, but at least I’ll know what to look for.
A failed water inlet valve will have the symptom of no water coming out but the dispenser will hum as it’s trying to dispense water. Ice may still be dispensed, but none will be made. I happened to have an extra water inlet valve on hand because I thought that it had failed again in the same week since I got the replacement part off Amazon. I ended up ordering the “real” part from another vendor and had an extra. The symptom for the broken wire(s) is that neither the water or the ice dispenser will work (and no dispenser motors will hum), but ice is still being made as the water inlet valve is working. Once I got the pink wire jumped, the ice dispenser was working but the water dispenser wasn’t and there was no hum from it. A commenter noted that for him, jumping the red/white wire solved his water dispenser issue and that fixed it for me as well. In my case, my issue was resolved by jumping both the pink and the red/white wires and I had replaced a failed water inlet valve the week prior.
Good job!! Your patience and research with this repair is what got you to resolution! These are the bones to any successful troubleshooting and repair. Also a very well description on your findings. For anyone else reading this, remember just because I only found one wire broken inside the door does not mean that there aren’t other wires broken inside that door. You have to be certain that you do not have multiple wires broken to be successful in repairing this symptom. So far, I have ran across multiple fridge with this same scenario and one of these fridges had a total of 4 broken wires. Good luck to everyone.
This is exactly what happened to my LG refrigerator. Thank you for taking the time to share your repair…it helped me diagnose and fix my fridge without spending $550 on a new door just because of one broken 14 gauge wire.
This was posted 3 years ago and still helpful! Had the same issue and was literally about to buy a new fridge because the ice/water dispenser not working was driving me crazy but then I stumbled on this video 🙏🏼 thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for the video. The estimate to replace the door was $740 and I was able to do this with a $35 Amazon order of parts. I drilled a hole in the top of the plastic the controller was attached to at the top of the door to run the wire, and notched the plastic that covers the hinge so the wire wouldn’t be as stressed. Thank you again for posting, you have helped a lot of people!
Thanks! Exactly what was wrong, for the many questions about running the jumper best to cut a notch out out close to the front hinge of plastic cover then another to board cover. Point is eliminate any wire movement when door opens. Cosmetically easily hidden as well. Saved $800
This is exactly what needed to be done when ours broke. Now the wife is satisfied (temporarily) as well. I foolishly thought it didn't fix it at first for a minute... until I put the door hinge cover back on and the magnetic "door is closed" sensor engaged. Thank you kindly.
Thank you for making the time to share your work! The real solution for this repair solution was nearly impossible to find anywhere else.
Hi, I have the exact refrigerator with the exact same problem, followed all your steps and repaired my fridge , now I have water, thank you so much for the advice ,saved me a ton of money from a repair man.thanks
So how did you hide wiring? So its just the top wire connection on top of fridge to ice and water? I am confused as to the wiring on door, is that just left in the door when its cut and sp!iced to new wire?
Thanks for the useful video. It worked for me. The only recommendations I have to improve the video are 1) more instructions on how to safely route and conceal the wire and 2) more safety tips included in the video such as when to remove power. Again thanks for posting!
Thank you!! I owned a design and engineering company for 15 years and can't believe LG designed the wire harness in a way that the wire fails after repeated door open/closing. But, sure enough I used the steps in the video to diagnose the same issue. I fixed it in a similar way and water and ice for all now!
THANK YOU SIR!!! Had the exact same symptoms, and your fix worked perfectly.
I carefully drilled small holes in each cover and made sure to leave enough wire for door swing, then taped it down. LG = LOW GRADE in my book...😄
Where's the recall??
Wow I have the exact problem with my LG refrigerator and this awesome video had solved the problem. I found the broken wire and install a jumper and it works great. Thank you so much for this comprehensive video. You are awesome.
You’re welcome. Glad it helped you as well!
Thank you so much for the info. It worked for me. I had a repair guy out and he wasn't able to fix it.
Great information, and very well explain
This should be a recall, as it appears to be a ongoing problem
.
Thank you for this video. This was exactly my problem and after a week of no water or ice, we finally have our refrigerator back. I ran my wire by the hinge and drilled a small hole through the top of the auger control board for a seamless look with no tug.
I was having the same trouble with the same part. No one could replace the part! I had a professional come out, etc., but nothing worked. I replaced two other parts: no good.
Then I watched your video, did the pink wire, did the white/red wire, and now I have ice and water again. $5 fix and about 10 minutes. Thank you very much!
You did the red whit wire as well? I am thinking that is my issue.
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much sir I am new to appliance repair and I am learning so much from you please continue to share with novice such as myself it is truly warranted be blessed and have a great night
SOLID STEPS TO WEALTH . You are welcome and thank you!
Thanks a lot, I repaired the fridge with your video and works like a charm now!
Work for me too, thanks so much. Seems odd that everyone has the problem with the pink wire and none of the others in that bundle. Some critical design flaw. Mine started working sporadically, then only with the door partially open and the door switch magnetically closed and, finally, completely dead. Back in business. Certainly wasn't going to buy a new door for a single 16g wire. Would rather buy a new fridge from a competitor out of spite.
Same symptoms here, and agree completely! Fortunately this fixed our problem, but LG seems to stand for LOW GRADE in my book!
You are great help to solve my similar problem , I had issue with only water wasn't dispensing. I end up jumping white wire wire strip. LG tech want to change whole new door . estimated @ $500. Thank you for your well explained video.
Most welcome! Im glad it helped you!
Thank you for sharing video. This fixed my problem. Never would have thought of the power supply issue as it broke just after plumbing work in the house. Thanks for DYI fix.
This fixed the problem! I didn’t see the need to remove the water and ice dispenser as it was very unlikely both micro switches had failed. It’s tricky running the wire from under each cover. I used black tape to hold the wire in place along the top of the door and use black wire as it is somewhat visible at the door hinge. I thought it was hilarious that the first step is cut the power, and he’s working with the power on.
He took the panel off. He didn’t do the repair. “Make sure you cut the power off before you do any repairs”
Thank you so much for this video, this helped me repair my refrigerator. The pink wire was broken, as soon as I replaced the wire the water and ice dispenser started functioning. Thanks again!!
Guess this explains why I was getting shocked by my fridge once and a while! My pink wire was broke about 4" down in my door. Thanks for the video, it fixed my water and ice dispenser!
Thank you, I fixed my LG lfx28968st with same issue. Mine was blue wire, no continuity from hinge connection down to dispenser control board which is located on back of dispenser control panel assembly. I was able to run new wire down door to water solenoids and splice there. All working now!
Glad you found a way to run that wire down the door. From what it seems, hiding the
Wire at the hinges or running it down the door is the hardest part of this process for most folks.
Thank you so much! I just fixed my fridge following your method!
Worked for an hour. Got it to keep working by adding the cut pink wires that wasn't connected to anything on both ends to the splice. Thanks for the help.
I have the same fridge with exact same issue. Did what you said and fixed. Thanks
Thanks for post. I have the same issue and was looking around UA-cam to find a solution. I have extended protection plan with home depot which is covering the repair and waiting for new door. I just thought it was ridiculous that it was determined that the whole door needed to be replaced(design flaw I guess) and refused to believe it. At least I will know what to do if it happens when my warranty expires.
Unfortunately, this is becoming somewhat of a problem with these particular fridges. Glad this helped you.
Your a freaking genius worked for me and since I have gray molding up top duct tape is going to be perfect
Thank you for your post. Just did what you showed me on this video and voila fixed the issue! Thank you!
This fixed my issue (Thank you for the great video) but how did you end up running the new wire?
Very helpful information, Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to create this video which solved my problem.
Thank you Rick!
Hey thanks that was really helpful I will look into that to see if I can fix my fridge
Youre welcome Juan.
Going to try this tomorrow! Thanks for the video.
So I checked and I have resistance across the pink wire. Any thoughts? Exact same symptoms you had.
Super helpful video. Makes it easy to follow. I'm trying that fix toniight. Thank you.
Thank you Tom! Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for video 🙏that actually happened to my fridge will try to do that hopefully it work 😁👍👍👍👍
Hi, thank you for informative video, your fridge looks the same as ours, we got a 2018 LG LMXS30796D. The issue is it will dispense water like a glass or 1/4 of the pitcher then will stop completely while pressing the switch or flapper, then need to wait for an hour or more for water to dispense again, then it will stop and need to wait again, like a cycle. I already replaced the water inlet valve but the issue remains the same. The fridge is still making ice properly and the water pressure is good, it’s the water dispenser not functioning properly, I can still hear a click and hum whenever I press the flapper but no water for a while then will come again after few hours. Spent almost a day troubleshooting with LG customer service but didn’t fix the problem and other company advised to change water inlet valve but the problem still the same. Do you think it’s the wiring the issue, the one you posted? Please advise, your response would be highly appreciated.
Hello, first thing first, no I do not think it’s the broken wiring inside the door. I would start looking at your water filter. Has it been replaced recently? If not, replace it. Also, diagnose the water filter head and make sure it’s not the culprit. Make sure you’re replacing the correct inlet valve. If yours is a French door unit (freezer on the bottom) more then likely you have primary inlet valve and secondary inlet valves. Primary typically supplies secondary and secondary typically supplies ice maker and water dispenser. Also, check water reservoir inside the fridge section and make sure it’s not freezing. If it is then you need to troubleshoot why the water reservoir is freezing. Let me know what you find out with your fridge.
Hi. Thanks for your video. My problem is that on mine only the ice is not dispensing. Any idea of how to solve it??
This was really helpful, great video and was able fix it in 30 min!
By far the most information I have found for this specific fridge and the litany of dispenser issues. However, the pink wire 0's out for me. The red/white wire registers 1. What is the red/white wire for?
Back story is the water hasn't worked since we moved in but the ice maker would make ice and dispense. When I would press the water dispenser I could hear the valve in the door hum but nothing would come out. The previous owner says the water always worked but the ice didn't for them. Now, as of a couple weeks ago, the ice quit making ice, and the ice dispenser stopped dispensing ice. The tray keeps dumping as if it has made ice but obviously there isn't any ice to dump. While testing for continuity, I could intermittently get both the ice maker and water dispenser to attempt to dispense when the door was opened to a certain angle, but that has since stopped cooperating. That's what leads me to believe there was/is a broken wire in the door. But the pink and the red/white are the only two matching wires in the harnesses tested in the video.
Also.. I have replaced the rear water inlet valve, and the front panel that includes the reservoir, filter, and valve in the door and neither replacement has made a difference. Our nearest LG authorized repair tech is about an hour away and wants $150 just for the service call because it's $75 per hour and the clock starts when they roll out of their parking lot.
We just have to avoid buying houses with LG fridges! Last house had an LG fridge that the compressor went out, and this one has an LG fridge that the dispenser doesn't work!!
Any help is appreciated! Being a frugal individual that has much more important things to spend his money on (daughters), folks like you sharing your knowledge on UA-cam to help others save some money, is very appreciated.
Hey Tony. I'm not sure as to what the red/white wire is for but it sounds like you got it right. Sounds like there may be some broken wires inside the door. However, have you checked for 120V at the valve while trying to dispense water or when the ice maker is calling for water? Also confirm that your fridge does not have a secondary water valve inside the fridge section somewhere (some fridges have 2 water valves). If you do not receive 120V at the inlet valve when the water dispenser is activated, you may have issues with your harness or a bad control board (Often times its a bad control board in this situation). However if you do receive 120V at the water inlet valve when the dispenser is being activated then most likely you are dealing with a broken wires inside the door.
@@ShareTheRepair Just got back to this project.... For me, the blue wire was broken and the red/white wire was broken. The red/white goes to the dispenser control board so I was able to jump that one like you did the pink wire. However, still no dispensing of water even though I can hear the rear water inlet valve actually kicking in and running now. It pressurizes the filter and the reservoir but doesn't activate the in-door water inlet valve. So I am guessing the blue wire is the cause of that.... Does anyone know what the blue wire is for? For all the things that are on the internet, apparently a wiring schematic for this fridge isn't one of them. Oddly enough, the ice dispenser auger has quit working as well now, which I have read could be caused by the ice sensors not sensing ice. If true, that would make sense. If doors weren't so expensive, I would just replace the door and be done with it because if two wires were broken, I'm sure the others aren't far behind. For now, we'll just continue to have a big fridge with a non-functioning ice and water dispenser.
Thank you sir! I had this issue today and it worked
Solution still works. Thanks!
Thank you very much. Really helpful!
Yup that is so strange that they put wire to be bent like that and route it inside the door instead of making a channel in the plastic at the top. Thanks for the fix.
Well it starts out in a dedicated channel, however towards the bottom of the door is when it start to loopty loop around.
Thank you for this resolve. But I do have another question, how did you hide the wire that you spliced in to replace the broken pink wire?
when my water and ice would not dispense at first, i put an earth magent on top of the left door board cover. water and ice would then work when we had the door open (left one only, it still thought it was shut). kind of funny, but easy and quick fix. now, that's finally stopped working...ice still being made and water dispenses for a split second, then stops. will try this and see if it works...it's either that or a new fridge...yikes! thanks for posting the vid!!
Good luck! Hopefully this solves your problem too.
yep that fixed it! sure appreciate the video.
Same prob on mine, thanks for the video!
Thanks very much. Had exactly the same problem. Called LG support and ran the so called SMART DIAGNOSIS, nothing helpful. After watching your video and following the instructions, problem solved!
thanks brother working perfectly after jump the wire
Glad to hear this helped you too!
Do you have any pointers or videos of running a new wire through the door so it’s not visible on top?
My LG refrigerator stopped dispensing water 1 year ago, however it continued to make ice. We have a reverse osmosis system at the kitchen sink. Now it stopped making ice. I opened up the control panel at the top of the door and got a strong electrical smell. I am thinking that board has something on it burned out. I will order a replacement board.
Thank you for your knowledge 👍.
You bet!
@@ShareTheRepair hi i did it, but know is not dispensing water only ice, can you help?
@@MrRuso316 I don’t think I will be of much help since diagnosing a problem requires testing things with multimeter, however the parts you need to test are; water inlet valve, water pressure, control board, dispenser module, frozen water line, filter, filter head. Good luck.
@@ShareTheRepair thanks, i will try to fix it, i did what you did in the video and it works but no constant it was come and go, i have to open the door completely and then press the water dispenser and water came out ok, and that needed to be done every time to get the water dispenser work, now no meter what i do, no water came out, only the ice dispenser works,
Excellent video.....LG repair tech said the black wire ( common ) was broke inside door. Can we apply the same fix to the black wire ? Tech said we need a new door and NONE are available.
If it truly is the black wire broken inside the door then yes, I don’t see why not. Keep in mind there is always a possibility that there could be multiple wires broken. I would perform a continuity test on all the wires to be sure that multiple wires aren’t broken.
Thank you so much for your time and effort, I have an older 2 door model, there is ice in the icemaker but when I press the lever I hear humming noise, but no ice or water are dispensing, any thoughts?
Not sure what brand or what model you have, but it could be ice maker, water inlet valve, filter, filter housing or frozen reservoir. Good luck!
My question is what you ended up doing with the new wire. Is it just running across the top of your fridge? Or is there a way to run it thru the top of the door? Thanks
Thank you for the video. I have a very interesting issue around this. My water dispenser works when the left door is open 45 degrees OR more. I do that by using a magnet to replicate a closed door by holding it up against the top switch. However, when I start moving the door to the close position and cross the 45 degree mark approx. the water stops dispensing. Any ideas or thoughts?
Rahul, sounds like a wire is definitely shorting out inside that door. Only time before it completely breaks/separates altogether.
I have exactly the same! Did you manage to work out which wire? Looks like I’ll be getting a new door.
Good job nailed it, chasing my tail for awhile.
Hey thank you for the video I did and water just flows nite! Before I did this repair my ice maker was doing ice but didn't dispense it, now no is not making any ice... Please reply if you would. Thanks
If I understood you correctly, your ice maker was making ice just not dispensing? If that is the case, this video was not meant for you. This video is for ice maker not making ice and water not dispensing. Did you verify that you had broken wires before performing this bypass?
@@ShareTheRepair
Thank you for your prompt response! Yes I did test the pink wire and was dead, as soon as I made the bridge water flow... What do you think happened with the ice maker that stopped making ice? I found a refurbished LG ice maker ensemble at Amazon very cheap. What do you think?
Hello, hoping you can still reply to questions regarding this issue. I followed your video step by step and also found the broken cable. I bypassed it just as you showed but I still get no water no ice coming out of the dispenser. I checked voltages coming into and at the top board so I know I have 120V feeding in which I didn't before. I've also replaced the board AT the dispenser for a new one before I even tried the cable. Any thoughts ? Thanks again for a great video, Mitch
You’re gone have to dig in that wiring harness and see if there are more broken wires. You may try placing the ice maker into service mode and see if ice maker reacts. Other then that, not much more I can offer without physically observing the problem unfortunately.
@@ShareTheRepair Again, great video. I went back and made sure all connections were made correctly. Now all is good, must have missed a step. Thank you !
Thank you! I’m glad it helped you as well!
Thanks for this, worked for me
Thanks a lot man
Thanks for the video I had same problem and it’s fixed now,, but I really want to fix the pink wire i have tried but I don’t know how to get to it? Any tips how to get to the pink wire? Thanks again
If the pink wire is broken further down inside the door, then your home have to find a way to by pass it directly to where it comes out of the door and goes into the ice and water dispenser control board.
Great video which gave me the confidence to tear in and check continuity on the pink wire, which measured no resistance. After completing the bypass, I didn't see any differences in the function of the water or ice dispenser. Any reason to pull off the front cover to check the limit switches, which seem to be working. My other thought was to replace the circuit board powered by the end of the pink wire, any ideas where to find it?
Does the pink wire have 120V going to it?
@@ShareTheRepair I checked the wire (in the connector) opposite the pink wire and measured 12V?
Okay, so you said you checked the “continuity” of the pink wire. This means you disconnected the pink wire from both connectors, you placed one of your voltage meter probes on the pink wire at the connector by the door hinge and the other meter probe from your volt meter at the pink wire that is entering the ice and water dispenser control board. With your meter set to “ohms (Ω),” your meter showed “OL” or a flashing “1”. Is this the test you ran on the wire?
I just unplugged mine and let rest for 30 seconds. Started to work fine after I plugged it back in.
Thanks for the tip. Unplugging worked for me. Wonder if the issue came back for you?
@@LeMatt87n nope, never came back
Question what if the broken wire is the blue one , I already did the pink but also the blue is broken ? Please help
If there are any broken wires inside the door then it’s a high chance your ice maker will not function. Depending on your unit, there could be between 2-3 blue wires in the wiring harness and most certainly one of them goes to the ice maker thermistor. Thermistor is responsible for sensing the ice maker temperature. If control board does not see ice maker temperature below 15° F then ice production is terminated. Once temperature of ice maker is below 15° F then ice production is resumed since ice maker is cold enough to freeze water with in allotted time.
I have a similar model, and I had a similar issue, although it probably is because I, and someone else, didn't look at the instructions.
The top LED has lock and a siren icon for the Alarm/lock button on the bottom. If the lock is lit up, hold the Alarm/Lock button for about 3 seconds, a chime should play and the lock icon should go out.
Hi, great video! So, the red wire in my bundle has 120v, but my pink wire only has about 4.5v. Does this sound correct? Also, looks like my pink wire is broken but if it is only getting 4.5v think I may have a bigger problem. Any thoughts? Thanks
One way to find out is to bypass the pink wire. It’s a stranded wire so that means it could be just hanging on by one strand at the break point which will cause a low voltage reading at the end of the wire. I would say to go ahead and bypass that pink wire. What else you got to loose?
Thank you sir
I need help. My LG LMXS30796D have no power to the display. What can be the problem?
After you found out the problem, and you connected the pink wire both end to have power for ice/water control board. I saw the middle pink wire sitting on top of refrigerator. How did you hide that? Thanks!
I just had to find the best way of getting it out of view. Honestly there are so many ways. Zip ties, sticky tapes, duck tape. Just go wild and use your imagination. Nobody will be able to see it up there anyways. Unless your family is in daily contact with Bigfoot then I’d say you have a bigger issue to deal with than just the visible wires.
excelent thanks
This worked to make my water and ice work again. Unfortunately, the fridge and freezer are now warm. I can hear the compressor running. Any ideas on what might have happened?
Since you’re dealing with an LG, more than likely you either have a sealed system leak or a failed compressor which are also common problems with these fridges.
Last night the ice panel touch buttons stop working and are no longer lit as well as the ice maker stop working too. The water dispenser has not worked for some time. Over a year.
We also noticed the drawer temperature controls on the middle drawer and freezer drawer is lit but it will not allow us the adjust the temperature. It’s like it’s stuck. What are your thoughts. Pink wire?Are the 2 related issues? By the way we have the exact fridge you are showing.
Sounds like you may need a service technician out there…
Good job 👍
Great video, but I’m having the exact opposite problem, mine started dispensing water and ice on its own, I had to open the door to stop it, then I locked the control panel to keep it stopped, any ideas for this problem?
Hey Peter. The main control board is responsible for dispensing water and ice. Unless there is a water dispenser control board on top of the left door. Basically what you need to check is micro switches behind the dispenser/user panel, control board that sits on top of left fridge door(if your unit has one), broken wires inside the left door(I have a video on this issue), or main control board is glitching. Good luck!
Hi, I have LG gf5d712sl it neither dispensing water or ice both. I checked removing tubing at the back and pressing lever and it's dispensing water which tells me that water inlet valve is working. so I tried this technique but didn't work. Looks like colour coding is bit different.
Any help please.
My issue is that the dispenser control board burnt... Bought another and replaced and it worked! Ice and water! For 30 seconds and then burnt that new one.. sigh. Any ideas what to look for next? Thanks.
Either you need to find an OEM quality part or you need to start testing things with multimeter to determine what is causing the control board to burn. Something is grounding. When did it burn again? When you were using the water dispenser? When nothing was being activated? During dispensing of ice? Crush? Cube? Need a lot of information to be able to give you some advice.
How do you bury the spliced wire out of sight?
Thank you
We have LG LRMDC2306S. During first month we’ve had 4 service visits for craft ice maker not working. Each service call reveals the water feed line to the ice maker is frozen solid although the freezer temp is set at +4F. We added two thermometers into the freezer that log temp and they both show 4F so temp sensor is good. Does the craft ice maker line have a heater/defrost? Latest tech wants to switch out water feed line but by this point we have zero confidence LG know how to build a fridge.
Kris, your problem is definitely not a common problem but does tend to happen. Where does the ice make water feed line freeze? Close to exiting into the ice maker? Close to entering the freezer compartment? If I was the tech, I would be checking a couple of things. Check the ice maker water line heater. Check ice maker water inlet valve to ensure it’s not slowly leaking water through its diaphragm.
Pink wire did not have continuity. When I jumpered it like shown and restored the power, the front control panel appeared normal but LEDs on inside wall of the fridge were on and dim.
The ice maker and water still wouldn’t work. Any ideas why the fridge would behave this way?
My best guess is that you have multiple wires broken inside that door. Unfortunately all the other wires are almost impossible to get to for repair.
@@ShareTheRepair - Thanks so much!! Decided to get rid of the LG. Took delivery of a Bosch 800 series today and encountered a weird issue. Plugged Bosch into the standard outlet, and a GFCI protecting that circuit (Fridge is NOT plugged into GFCI) keeps tripping. I replaced the GFCI to rule that out and still the same issue. When plugging into a different circuit via extension cord, the fridge works fine. That particular extension cord circuit is also protected by a GFCI (not plugged into that though) that doesn't trip. Any ideas what could cause this?
My broken wire is the thick orange wire... do you know where it goes? The orange wire is responsible for calling water to the icemaker (solenoid) but im not sure if it connects to the sub pcb.
What is your exact model number?
So, I tested pink and the red white wire for continuity and all was well. So I replaced the board thinking it was the PCB but same issue. When I press water you can hear a click from that door PCB. The other wires didn’t look like they run to the PCB - what other wires could it be?
No ideas. You would need to spend a lot of time looking at a schematic and running down those wires to be able to find which wire or wires are broken.
What type of wire needs to be used standed or split
Stranded wire is ideal.
Thank you.
I have an LG fridge with the same problem. No water no ice. This suggests to me you should rule out a clogged filter, and just replace the filter. The next point of failure, in my opinion, will be the water inlet valve since the issue is No Ice and No Water. This is a $50 part if you buy locally and less online. I tested my valve and found it to be bad. After replacing the valve, I now have water and ice. Again, if you have no water and no ice, this water inlet valve should be your first stop IMO. There are UA-cams that shows how to remove and replace this valve.
Correct, a simple ohm reading from a volt meter will determine if water inlet valve is bad or not. But if not, what is your next step..?
Exactly the same issue as mine one. The total fix quote is about $730 Australian Dollars.
I did the above fix and it worked great. However, over time, the water dispenser stopped working. I am getting a humming sound so I know it is getting power. Is there another wire that can be jumped to correct this likely broken other wire? Thanks in advance!
Where is the humming sound coming from? Dispenser or the control board?
@@ShareTheRepair The humming is coming at the water dispenser when pushed in trying to get water, not at the control board. I replaced the primary water valve at the back of the refrigerator, and the secondary water inlet valve (in the door) but neither helped. Still no water from the water dispenser, but the ice maker/ice dispenser is still working perfectly. I have the same refrigerator as in your video. I also replaced the water dispenser micro switch, but again, no luck, so that's why I was thinking it could be another broken wire in the door as that's all I could think of? Thank you!
Yes could very well be a broken wire in the door. That particular fridge has a design flaw which cause one or more wires to break. Could also be a water/ice dispenser control board.
@@ShareTheRepair Figured it out. I removed the upper left hinge and another wire going from that same connector that you jumped to the control board in this video, must be broken as if I wiggle that wire bundle as it is entering the left door I can get the water dispenser to intermittently work. Is there a way to figure out if there is a wire responsible for the water dispenser that can also be jumped directly to the control board on the door as you did with the pink power wire in this video?
There you go. If you have the wiring diagram for your fridge, all your answers are located in it. If not, you may try searching for the model number online to see if you get lucky and find one.
I have a similar symptom. (Ice works water doesn’t) . I think it is because the pilot valve isn’t getting energized. I am thinking my red/white wire has this problem. Is the red/white wire in that connector supposed to be connected to the red/white wire running out of the PCB? I am measuring open at moment, but a bit scared to short it and test, because I don’t want to just energize something random before verifying that should actually be connected.
Well it’s simple to verify your hypothesis. Have someone engage the water dispenser while you check the voltage coming to the water inlet valve. You will have to find the correct valve if it’s the French door unit since a lot of these unit have primary and secondary valve groups. However I am unable to confirm weather the wires running out of PCB are same color as the ones inside the door. I wouldn’t risk shorting the wires together as this has a high chance of shorting the control board. Wires tend to switch colors after coming out of control board in refrigerators. Not always, but enough of the times that I would alway reflect back to schematic for correct color codes.
@@ShareTheRepair To make triple sure, I verified that the inlet valve leads mapped to the red/white wire coming through that connector at the top of the door using a multimeter. I went ahead and trusted what I saw in the schematic that the Red/White wire coming from the PCB was "supposed" to be the inlet control line, and therefore, "should" be the red/white wire going into that connector. All of this was consistent with the red/white wire being broken inside the door. I jumped the red/white wire coming from the PCB with the red/white wire going into that connector.... and it worked! Water is flowing! I imagine I will have to fix the pink wire the same way one of these days. Thanks for your content!
Wonderful! Glad to hear it worked!
@@kuhlmanateJust wanted to say thanks for posting this question and following up with the result. I’d patched the pink wire a few years ago, but ran into the same issue as you. Ice, no water. I tried replacing both pumps to no result, and became fairly confident the issue was wiring, but couldn’t determine the right one, even with the diagram. I was close to buying a new door, but didn’t want to spend $400 on something with the same design flaw. Finally came back to this video to browse the comments and found yours. 10 minutes later, running water. Thanks again.
@LukeRussellplus you’re most welcome. It’s hard justifying spending $400 on a door that has simple broken wires in it. It wouldn’t be that difficult for manufacturer to install an access port for the wire harness inside the door. But what do I know…
I'm having the same problem, but it's happening intermittently. Is there any other switch that might be causing the problem? Because in my case, sometimes it works, and then all of a sudden it doesn't. When I press the switch to dispense water or ice, I do hear something engage, but no ice, no water. A few hours later, after opening and closing the door a few times. It works. It's almost like it's something tied into a switch tied with opening and closing the door... any advice?
Yes I have some advice. Don’t overthink it. Your fridge is not as smart as your trying to give it credit for. If you open the door and your ice maker magically starts working, you definitely have broken wires in the door.
Hey there I have a question, I did this procedure to my fridge & I had no change in either function for the water dispenser or ice dispenser. My fridge lock door alarm actually started chiming as if I had the door not fully closed. Any ideas on what I should do next? Thanks again for your time & advice.
Hey there. This repair does not apply for all fridge models. My first question is your fridge the same model as the on in the video? If not then the color coded wiring may be different. There is a magnetic door sensor in some models inside that hinge cover. Make sure the hinge cover is reinstalled and the door sensor didn’t slide out on accident.
@@ShareTheRepair hey there & thanks for answering me back. Yes sir I have the exact same fridge. Which is why I just did exactly as the video said & then that's what happened. So unfortunately the fridge is still not dispensing water or ice. I'm going to check the diagram just to make sure my wires are the same as yours as far as hot wires are concerned. But all my wires & connectors look exactly as in the video...so I'm up for any suggestions & thanks again for any all advice.
@@royrequena3 did you perform the tests on the wires before performing the repairs? If your wires are testing properly, you’re dealing with a different issue that has the same symptoms. Could be a bad water dispenser ice dispenser control board. Without performing tests per wiring diagram, not much I can tell you.
@ShareTheRepair there is a capacitor block on that control board...you will have to test the value..if you haven't fixed it you may want to try it. It's for the auger motor! He shows it on the schematic in his video!!
Could you please share how you got the panel off? In the video it seems you already have a big gap around the edges so you took off the panel easily, how did you get the gap in the first place? Mine is so well embedded into the door and can't make a gap at all
No video for that process unfortunately, however you will need something plastic (not to scratch the surface of fridge) and thin to insert in between the panel and fridge. There is a wide variety of plastic wedges and pry bars available on Amazon.
How do wires just”BREAK” inside the bundle like that? I just bought an LG-4 door unit(not exactly like the ice/water control panel shown here)is this a design flaw inherent to this manufacturer?
John, this is very much a design flaw. I suspect some of the wires may be to tight when installed thus when you open the door it causes a “pull” on the wires and since they’re tightly packed in there, they can only withstand so much “pulling” until they finally break. Another guess could be that something inside the door is rubbing against the wires when you open and close the door. Which in end result will also cause broken wires.
I noticed that there is also a switch on the top of the left door on a hinged panel. Could a faulty switch cause the same problem?
I’m not sure which switch you’re referring to, but if it’s the door switch then the answer is yes and no. If the door switch is bad then the problem will be similar but not exactly the same. The dispenser will not be operating because the fridge will think that the door is constantly open and therefore should sound the “open door” alarm.
What if my fridge wont dispence water only, will this solution solve it
Possibly. It depends on whether you have a broken wire inside the door or not. If all your wires are intact, then probably not.
Any video how you ran the wire once you replaced it.
No videos however no matter how you replace the wire, unless it is ran inside the channel, the wire will break over time so be sure to compensate for that by running a longer wire and once it breaks just splice it back together.
@@ShareTheRepair understood. Thank you
I replaced the water inlet and the ice maker. Water is is still not being dispensed into the ice tray. Even have I hold the reset button and the tray calibrates. Water will not pour out into the tray. I can fill cups of water on the front of the fridge, but water isn’t going to the ice maker. Any ideas?
Broken wires inside your door.
I can’t tell how many LG fridge I’ve seen with broken wires inside the door since making this video.
@@ShareTheRepairit’s model LMXS28626S. Like I said if I hit the reset button on the ice maker it resets the dispenses and it does the spinning calibration reset, but no water comes out. On this model, there would be a wire in the left door that controls the water going to the ice dispenser ?
@@echolectricstudios2870 Any fridge that has an ice maker will have a signal wire running from ice maker to either control board or valve that signals the ice maker water valve to turn on to allow water flow into ice maker for a preset duration. (around 5 seconds) If the signal is not reaching the water valve, water will not turn on.
Hello, I have a similar problem, in my house the ice dispenser works and the ice comes out correctly and the relex is also heard on the computer that goes to the door, and when I ask for water the relex is also heard but no water comes out and it is also listen to the valve that is inside the door, the ice machine works correctly and I checked the back valve, a new one was placed and this is the same problem, how could you help me?
I have the same problem. Initially, just the water but then ice stopped also. Looks like I’ll need a new door! Very frustrating. Currently attempting to remove the inner plastic away from the door but I’m not confident.
@@robaxford3105 Same for me! I can't decide if I just need to buy a whole new door, or can it be fixed by replacing that pink wire (as in this video)? Can you tell me what you ended up doing?
@@SincerelyShellySunshine hi
ya reparaste tu puerta?