Nice video. I used to use K&N filters until one time, and that's all it took, the welded nut on the bottom leaked. I caught it before it damaged the engine. I've used Mobil 1 filters ever since. No issues.
I have been doing religious oil and filter changes on my 2016 F-150, 3.5 Eco. Been using full synthetic and WIX filters every 4000 miles. 122K with no issues. Thanks for the update.
I bought a 2006 chevy silverado with 228k miles on it that had some bad lifter tick at startup. I tried this oil out (after pouring some kerosene through the block with the drain plug out) and I'm now at 235k miles and no lifter tick. I think the tiny valve inside the lifter was stuck with some sludge, and the restore and protect got it loose. I'm happy with it and will continue to use it.
I use primarily Wix, STP XL or Purolator filters. I agree with you, i don't think I'd be using that Motorcraft anymore. Nice video. Straight to the point.
Just did my oil change on my 2012 corolla s, Ive ran it with seafoam in the past and ive done intake cleaning and changed every fluid. Put this oil into it, Cant wait for my next oil change. This might be the only oil I use forever. Ive heard nothing but good news about this
Everything I hear is good other than those engines that have not been well-maintained and end up with massive amounts of sludge being released and clogging up the oil filter.
@@JaykeBlayde I only ran a few ounces at a time, 1 ounce per quart of oil, but never again. My engine is fine and blow-by is reducing as I continue to use the Valvoline product.
Nice video. I’m on my 3rd run on Valvoline R&P. Oil analysis on 2 of those runs shows it keeps getting better. Oil consumption on my Honda Accord went from 2 quarts per 5k miles down to 1/2 quart per 5k miles. I hope you stay with R&P for at least 3-4 oil changes and see how it does for your truck. Good Luck
I'm no expert, but I think that for heavily sludged engines, just about ANY fresh oil is going to dissolve and dislodge sludge and quickly deposit enough of it into the filter to make it bypass. If you have a sludge problem, it's probably best to use cheap conventional oil and do a series of very short OCIs until the oil runs clear. You'll be changing it so fast that the new oil won't have time to oxidize and form it's own sludge deposits. This restore and protect is targeted at carbon deposits and varnish specifically in and around the piston ringlands. To the best of my knowledge, those deposits form even when using full synthetic oil at OEM recommended OCIs (but to a lesser degree). So it was kind of unavoidable until valvoline came out with this stuff. I've seen valvetrain varnish get cleaned and flake off the inside of my valve covers after using normal castrol edge from the black bottle for about 40k miles. I'd like it if restore and protect acts faster, but valvoline only makes claims about piston deposits. Compared to carbon deposits and varnish, sludge is kind of a separate issue that results from using conventional oil and not changing it often enough.
@@DrivingIntelligenceuse Valvoline Restore from Cummins. It’s way stronger the restore and protect. It’s only made for Cummins heavy truck repair centers. It was made to solve oil burning issues in Cummins engines. And is only to be used once it is so strong. About $80 a gallon.
Wanted to add my experience... My e350 5.4 .. my 1.5 Prius all burn a little oil... Before oil changes I top off with marvel mystery oil .. it's mild but doing every oil change interval.. the oil stay cleaner longer and I burn slightly less oil.. for oil filters I make every effort to use wix and Purolator.. alternatives are fram xg .. tg or mobil.. I change oil every 4700-5500 miles.. rotella T6 5-40 in all vehicles
It's used to remove the varnishes and keep the varnishes away. I'm using R&P and have noticed my engines are running smoother with it. You won't see the filters getting plugged during varnish removal and if you weren't sludged up to begin with. As long as your engine isn't damaged, you should notice improvements.
You make a good point. I clearly didn't have any sludge. I wish it were easy to see the condition of the pistons after several thousand miles, specifically the rings and ring lands.
Look into the Fram Endurance (Walmart only) or the Fram Ultra filters. The Fram Endurance is the same as Amsoil filters and has some of the best filtration and highest flow rate media you can buy currently. It’s not junk orange can Fram of the past anymore.
Fram endurance will get clogged up sooner. Also, their bypass valve allows oil to pass by unfiltered. You are better if you go with the Purolator Boss or a Microgard Select
Endurance has a low capacity and filtration not much better than Purolator Boss. The best oil filter is the Boss. Second best is Wix XP. Endurance/Amsoil is a third place. All use synthetic media with mesh.
I’ve got a 2013 f150 with the 3.7 liter. I changed my oil with the R&P for the first time 400 miles ago (3 days ago) and immediately it was smoother and quieter. I had assumed I had a motor mount that was starting to go, but within about 20 miles I couldn’t even feel the engine running at a stoplight. Mine has 194k miles on it, and has been well maintained. I have been a firm believer in royal purple for years because I get fantastic gas mileage out of it and it keeps my engines clean, however, I think I’m permanently making the switch. The only downside is I can’t find the valvoline anywhere except Walmart. Autozone, O’Reilly’s and advance don’t carry it near me. Other than that, no complaints. Also my fuel mileage has increased by a mile per gallon.
interesting comment. I also used to use Royal Purple, which I still love and use for gear oil and transmission fluid, but I noticed the engine oil volatility rate was too high, burning off oil rather quickly. I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which I continue to use in my other vehicles until I finish reviewing the Valvoline product.
Yes, it is to help low tension rings stay clean. But, if your engine is old and dirty, watch the dip stick. If the oil gets too dark, swap in another filter.
I typically use amsoil signature series in my cars. I put it in my daughter's Subaru for the first time at around 60,000 miles and after about 6 months the cel came on for the vvt solenoid. The oil on the dipstick definitely looks nasty and this oil is supposed to be good for 20,000 miles, even though 6 is the most I would go. Long story short is that the oil worked so good at cleaning the motor that it actually had a negative effect. I'm changing the oil today and pulling the solenoids to test and clean. This time I got the valvoline restore and protect to put in which is why I'm watching this video. I would have bought more amsoil but I have to order it online since no stores sell it here in southern California. I'm hoping the amsoil did it's job and the valvoline will continue where it left off. I have a large pipe cutter so I'll be splitting open the filter as well to see what it looks like. I may actually do a video of it.
@DrivingIntelligence not sure, car has always been well maintained. I didn't find any type of sludge but after cutting open the amsoil filter, it seemed to be pretty clogged. Also when I took the filter off, it let out a bunch of oil which I thought was odd. In a Subaru, the filter is on the top and is made to drain. We have several subarus and I've worked on them for years and have never had that happen. My thought is that it was sooo clogged that it couldn't even drain by letting air through.
"oil is supposed to be good for 20,000 miles" lol gotta love that marketing. why not just use a (much) cheaper oil and change it every 4k or so instead? your engine and your wallet will both love you.
@vinny6_9 ya, I would never actually go that long. 5000 max on her car and I change mine every 3000, mostly because I use ethanol and it gets in the oil. Better oil definitely makes a difference though, all marketing bullshit aside. The reason I use amsoil exclusively is because I 100% felt a difference in the car when switching to amsoil. My car was brand new and after switching it felt like the car was tuned. Everything just seemed to work so much better and there was so much less friction in the engine. So, you can feel however you want to feel about it but I have no problem spending a little more for better oil and have first hand seen a difference in performance and cleaning ability. Plenty of other people will tell you the same thing. It honestly isn't even that much more expensive. If you have a 90's corolla then it probably makes no sense because that thing will run forever either way but newer motors with direct injection leave more carbon deposits and will ultimately run and last longer with better oil.
Here is my take on this, my 00' f150 5.4 has a little over 374k original engine with Vavoline 5w30. I only use motorcraft filters and spark plugs. No sludge! I change the oil between 3K and 3.5k.
ANY cleaning product added to a DIRTY engine will cause carbon to break loose and get caught in the oil filter. DUH. Why is this a “surprise” for you people? 🤨🤦🏻♂️
I heard this from Valvoline, but I think cruddy engines are going to have more sludge and varnish released from the engine and into the filter causing pluggage.
Currently running R&P on a lacross with 150k miles .1k miles so far and I have noticed it is quieter then before, it was quite before but it definitely smoothed out the engine sounds. I’ll do a change and run R&P again at the 3k mark.
Same here, im currently in my 2nd oci & will be doing 2, maybe 3 more changes with R&P then I will switch back to Valvoline High mileage Adv Max Life. That should keep my engine close to pristine
Purolator is a decent filter for the money. Either the blue (midrange) or the black (top end) filter. ford boss me has cut open and for the money, I've been running almost two years since I can grab at menards either my oil and get 11% rebate!
I am using the Valvoline R&P on my next oil change for my 2011 Honda Civic at 150,000 miles , up to the coming change it's been nothing but Honda Service Oil Changes for 13 years straight !
My improvements are a little subjective, I definitely have reduced piston slap, but the oil consumptions has reduced which was a welcome outcome. I'll check out your video.
It’s not only the micron pore size but also the surface area of the filter media and for that you’ll have to cut the media out of the filter, lay it out flat and measure the width and length to calculate the area… so less pleats doesn’t necessarily equate to less area
My 2024 GMC Acadia Denali direct injection turbo 4 is at 5k miles with 2 dealer oil changes. I will now be switching to the Valvoline R&P 0W-20 every 5k miles in an effort to prevent carbon and sludge buildup.
That's not sludge. The filter did its job. Although, the best thing to do is look in the can. Soot and sludge will build up there. You dumped out the oil but didn't really inspect the can.
So far I have two complete oil changes on the VR&P and other than a darker filter medium I've seen no sludge in my 2016 Toyota Highlander with 117k. I just bought a 1998 RV with a BBC 7.4L 454 which I plan on using it in. Only has 46k on the motor but it is old.
I still change my oil every 3,000 miles, using cheap Halvoline oil and Supertech filter from Wal-mart. The interior of the Pentastar 3.6 still looks great at 164,000 miles. I also run an Edelbrock supercharger.
Been using this stuff in my gals Hyundai that loves to burn oil ,before I was constantly topping it off every week, now it’s every 2 weeks I do believe it cleaned the rings a bit . I will give it another month or 2
Puralator Boss or Fram Synthetic endurance (Walmart only) is the only oil filters ill use. theres been plenty of testing to show those are the top performing oil filters
Amsoil oil filter is nearly identical (down to the stamp marks on the components) to the Fram Endurance. The only difference in the side by side tear down was the Amsoil had slightly more filter media in the particular model tested.
super informative, thanks! Nice to see you introduce your crew. I just started using this oil and will be doing my own analysis of oil filters. BTW, Next time, I'd love to see you wear gloves when handling that toxic juice. Do yourself and your family a favor by staying healthy and living a long life❤. (Just looking out for you brother, not nagging)
I used Wix for decades, then about 5 years ago I started getting a lot of overnight oil drain-back, noticeable by a longer time for pressure to come up on first start, and lifter rattle until the pressure builds. Wix changed hands a number of years back, and I think they’re no great thing anymore. Not on my “good” list at all. They’re more expensive, but I use either Royal Purple or Amsoil EAO wire-backed synthetic media filters. Both are actually made by Champion Labs. A middle ground alternative is the Mobil 1 filter, also made by Champion but with a more conventional media.
To properly compare the pleats, I would recommend cutting them out of the metal caps, then see the total surface area of the pleats. Just because they're not as densely packed on the motorcraft filter, doesn't mean that it's an inferior filter. The pleats might be deeper, thus the reason there are less than another brand. Also, check the micron ratings of the filters. The best filters are a paper filter (instead of fiberglass to metal). If the filter is a 10 micron filter, it should be twice the size of a 25 micron filter (just a generalization). The more the media can actually filter, means the less it can actually flow, thus the "better" filters should be bigger than the OEM filter. If the filter isn't bigger than the OEM, chances are they are going to filter the same microns, because they all use the same paper filter.
I'm going to run this oil next change. Chevron Delo 400 HDEO, 5w40 cured the piston slap in my 2010 Forester with EJ253 in 4 oil changes. Bought it in 2018 with 130k miles. 179k now. Still quiet.
@@DrivingIntelligence I used it thinking the 5w40 was a little thicker and might quiet it. Didn't help at first but got progressively quieter until it went away completely. I'm thinking the higher detergent cleaned and loosened the rings. Been running ST synthetic 5w30 for a few years now and it hasn't come back. I'm going to try this Valvoline R&P now. Why not? Can't hurt. Good luck. I hope it quiets yours down.
@@pedlpower thanks for the comment, I do feel my engine is quieter. Piston Slap is reduced and I hope with continued use it will get better. Now about 4k miles into this test.
Wix and Napa filters have the longest (most) filter media. A cheap filter might have a foot or more less filter media than a Wix or Napa filter. And Wix makes the Napa filters, they just put another name on them.
It used to be true that Wix made Napa filters. It's not _always_ true today. Napa today uses filters from multiple sources, including China, that meet its specifications.
STP filters are Amazing very well built. Always a bargain price with oil in Autozone. Air filters and gas treatment stp are Good too. No issues. The Top end Fram filter is the same as Amsoil filter.
Thanks for the comment... good to know. By the way, the cheapest place I found to buy engine oil is Walmart. About 2/3s the price of oil in the automotive parts stores.
@@DrivingIntelligence yes it might be a little cheaper. But Buying 5 items in Autozone above 20 Dollard you get points and get 20 later free to use in anything.
I have a 2011 Chev Suburban w/ 135k miles. I bought it with 115k. It had no piston slap when I bought it. Fist oil change the slap showed up. I’ve tried various additives to calm the slap unsuccessfully. Clearly the dealer had a method to hide the slap. I’m now on this Valvoline R& P and the slap persists. At my wits end over this. Suggestions??? What additive quiets the slap???
I just put R&R in my car. Put in a Purolator boss filter as well. My car has been getting oil changes at about 5,000 MI. But it does have 230k on the odometer. My car usually burns a quart every 10k miles. Then again my oil is changed between 4500 and 7k
While there didn't appear to be what i would call, "sludge" in the valve cover area, there was a LOT of varnish. I would think if there's that much varnish in the v. cover area, its probably a lot worse down below. What oil have you been using previously? And at what interval have you been changing it?
@@robertslegers257 Is that varnish? Might be, but all the videos I've seen indicate a golden color is appropriate for the valve train area. Comparing what others have shown of a clean engine, I feel mine is very clean. I was running from 5k-7k miles between oil changes, now going to about 4.5k miles.
Thanks for posting! I’m about to change my oil at 1500 with Valv RP and now I wanna buy an oil filter cutter! I did add a few of those neodymium magnets. Btw I’ve used Mobil 1, Amsoil, now on Purolator Boss. I’m planning to do one more oil change with Valv then move to Amsoil. I already use them for transmission, gears My Acura will almost have 200k 2006 and have always changed oil before 5k, used penzoil ultra platinum before Valv.
When you switch to this oil it's best to shorten your oil intervals at least for the first 3-4 oil changes. I never follow dealership intervals i always change my oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles.
@DrivingIntelligence I change mine every 2500- 3000 miles anyway. But I would do it at 3000 for at least 2-3 changes. Your filter will be black like in the video because it actually does what it states which is clean out your engine.
I've been having great results with Pennzoil UP and Valvoline Maxlife high mileage for the last 30k. I won't discount the new Restore and Protect, but i'd rather wait for a couple years to see how it plays out. The filter sludge(on different videos) is my main concern, but i do keep my 2014 F150 oil running clean. At this point, stick to what works. Thanks for the video!
I would call Restore & Protect a 2nd Gen. 1st Gen worked too fast... Premium Blue Restore oil was co-developed with Cummins. Source: The Motor Oil Geek. Go watch the lab conversation. This here video about real-world experience confirms... pick a great filter for your vehicle and this use case AND inspect and change often. An oversized filter will likely screw up the bypass pressure required... this is not the time to f around and find out.
I was buying and using motorcraft filters a lot with the 500s. I have swapped over to the Purolator boss on this go around. I may be wrong but motorcraft filters aren't made by Purolator now.
So how many miles have you driven it? 3000? You said the piston slap is gone and the oil consumption? You should do a follow up and scrape the filter with like a flathead on both filters just to see what the gunk buildup is like, I really couldn't see much difference between the two filters based on the video. But you didnt exactly spread em' either.
Pulling those valve covers is a beast, not going to do that. I will do that to my Mustang. Just started using Restore & Protect in that engine. Maybe I can scope the F150
Motorcraft is fine.... The diameter is bigger so even though it may have less pleats, the element area is the same while making it easier too flow more volume.
The way I think about it, more surface area will flow more oil with less pressure drop. Also, more surface area will be able to filter more for a longer time. Of course, if changing oil within 4-5k miles, I would say it is likely irrelevant.
Interesting… the only way I can see this happening is if the engine had not been well maintained and the oil released a significant amount of carbon deposits damaging the catalytic converter or the oxygen sensor.
Strictly opinion: The motorcraft filter isn’t bad, it’s designed that way to suit its application. That is of course, not to say there isn’t better filters because there surely are. That is all.
to be honest, my opinion was partially formed by a video I saw comparing older Motorcraft filters to newer filters and the difference in build quality and number of flutes was significant. I wasn't opening the filter to check the quality, just to see if full of sludge.
Is there ANY downside to using this R&P oil ? .... meaning.... what if you do this to a high mileage engine that runs well.....but are unsure of the varnish/sludge condition....can the immediacy of any cleansing start to clog things like VVT valves and such?. I changed out a bad VVT valve recently and things looked good, just a darker oil color film on the unit but it moved smoothly. Basically asking... "Can it dislodge unknown sludge and now the car is worse because the dislodged stuff clogs something?"
This is a very good question that I cannot legitimately answer with ANY accuracy. What I can say is the following, Valvoline claims they formulated this oil to slowly clean the engine and prevent fast removal of deposits which can cause damage and pluggage. My opinion, if you've been routine with your maintenance throughout the life of your engine, you should be ok with the R&P, but again, this is an opinion.
@@DrivingIntelligence ,...thank you for responding. I guess the key word from Valvoline "slowly" is important. And yes....I've been keeping up with steady-routine oil/filter changes BUT only since I bought the car at 155,000 miles.....it now has 300,000 and still drives perfectly....so maybe I shouldn't change my routine.
I don't know why you are looking for sludge in a well maintained engine. Sludge occurs in engines that don't see regular service. I had sludge and caked deposits clog my oil pump pickup on a van I bought used. I guess the previous owner never changed the oil that often and when I started changing the oil, all the stuff broke loose and ended up in the oil pan. As a result it had very low oil pressure. I ended up pulling the oil pan and cleaning out all the chunks and sludge and after that it never had that problem again.
I was pretty confident I didn't have any sludge, but there has been so much hype about clogged oil filters using R&P I needed to see for myself with my properly maintained engine.
If you have NOT maintained your engine with routine oil changes, you can probably expect a clogged filter, but that is NOT Valvoline’s problem, that is yours.
@@DrivingIntelligence Ok , at my 5000 miles oil / filter change . I always use an engine flush , BG EPR , Liqui-Moly or AmsOIl . And when oil is draining I can see through it as in golden brown . Couldn't change last time at 5000 miles , now around 6000 miles . But , last time I did not use a engine flush and now checking dipstick and it is very dark . I expect it was not using a flush last time .
That picture showing when you stated rebuild was spotless was anything but spotless. The head in that picture has very heavy varnishing. Which is how sludge begins. A spotless Ford head is brightly colored aluminum. The head in the picture had had a life of extended oil changes. I hope you wee showing to old head and I misunderstood. BTW it is 100% normal for a Ford modular to slap few a short period of time after a cold start. It should go away after the piston warms and expands to its proper side. As it wears it might take a bit longer. If you used forged pistons it will probably be pretty noise until full warmup. Perfectly normal if the bores were matched to the pistons properly during rebuild. Is your HD truck a supercharged version? They have different pistons.
Thanks for this comment, I'm learning. I had heard that a bronze color is good, but I'm getting more and more comments that the color indicates varnish. I bought the truck with 165K on the clock. Since then I have used quality synthetic oils with changes at about 7k miles and have just recently reduced this to 3-4K, primarily after pulling the transmission and seeing the carbon above the crank at the extreme back of the block. My HD F150 is supercharged and has ZERO piston slap, and I can confirm that using Valvoline R&P has noticeably reduced piston slap in the White XLT. It's not gone, but it is much quieter both at startup and during normal operation (I covered Triton piston slap in another video). Pretty surprised at this result. If I had sludge, I believe I would have seen it in the filter when I opened it, but there was none. Needless to say, my other vehicles have had much more frequent oil changes because I hardly drive them, this truck is my daily driver and sees much more abuse.
Exactly - that head has heavy varnish. The rest of the engine surely looks the same. Definitely not clean per se. There’s more to being dirty than just having sludge - OP appears to be new to this. That varnish was caused by using conventional/semi synthetic oil and/or too long of a change interval.
@@Trebor-gw8lt Should get cleaned with tighter oil change intervals... I'm going no more than 4,500 miles between oil changes now, 3,000 last change. Since I bought the truck with 165,000 miles, I've been using high quality synthetics.
I put marvel mystery oil in because I thought my engine was fairly clean just to do a little cleanup turned out It wasn’t, it actually was very dirty and within 25 miles it plug my oil filter and bypassed all the crap into my bearings and killed my engine
1:22-1:32 I'm not quite sold on this oil. But if it removes the varnish off the top of the cylinder head, under the valve cover, and is clean grey and silver, like the day it was assembled, then I'll believe all the hype. Because if it doesn't remove the varnish, which is just a thinner version of the build-up around the rings... Copy/pasted: Valvoline Restore & Protect claims that it can remove up to 100% of PISTON DEPOSITS when used for four or more consecutive oil changes at standard maintenance intervals. Because I would use this oil (if) it would remove engine varnish too, not just build up around the piston rings. I can't see the piston rings, but I can see the top of the cylinder head. This fantastic claim is "hidden" inside the engine, not viewable except by removing the pistons from the engine. Who is in their garage removing the pistons to check on the effects of an oil change? Pistons, yeah right! Valve cover, maybe. Show me a clean, varnish free cylinder head and valve train, then I'll think about switching for my 2004 C5 Corvette with 130k miles.
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you for a kind comment. I hope it removes the varnish too. If it does, Valvoline Restore & Protect is one of the best, if not the BEST!
Change the oil/filter every 3000 - 5000mil there will not be any sludge build up. Those who complain about sludged up filters have not been serviceing their vehicles. If this Valvoline oil is loosening up the burnt on laquar deposits then I ask are they useing oven cleaner as an additive? Must be some very strong chemicle to do that!
im on second restore and protect change, both of them ive had at 2,500 miles to be safe. i have a 2019 hyundai ioniq and it was burning oil, so far most of the oil burning has stopped and it sounds quieter when running. no idea how the valvoline improved that or the science behind it. only thing im more worried sbout is that since its a hybrid GDI engine, that restore and protect still cant get to the valves since its gdi... i wish i knew the build up levels in there at 230,000 miles
Do you know if your engine has two sets of injectors per cylinder? One being port injection and the other being GDI? Some companies have added the second injector to clean the valves. As far as the Restore & Protect cleaning the valves, my guess would be not likely, but it might help reduce additional deposits. Pulling the intake is the best way to check the level of deposits, but the other way is to perform a compression test to see if the cylinders are sealing, low compression could mean carbon buildup on the valves.
@@DrivingIntelligence no it’s just a plain GDI engine connected to a hybrid system and a 6 speed dual clutch transmission. I dont even know if I need walnut blasting or cleaning. Everything is so hard to access and check out in a compact hybrid car. Even transmission is super hard to reach. I’m already having cat converter problems.
@@TaylorPhase newer cars are getting harder and harder to work on because in my opinion, manufacturers don't design for maintainability, they only want to get 100K out of the vehicle.
PurolatorONE, 15K rated at 20 micron 99% filtration or if you are a boutique oil (Amsoil, HPL) extended OCI enjoyer and drive mostly highway miles and have to have thuh besst then PurolatorBOSS for 20K miles same 20 micron 99% filtration. Pro Tip: good luck finding the micron rating on other brands filters.
i have had valve covers off of engines i have had over the years and i never get sludge. the biggest thing to combat sludge is to change the oil regularly. i use walmart supertech full synthetic, nothing exotic but a decent oil no less. 4K mile oil changes, all of this nonsense of 5, 6, 7, 8K oil changes is asking for trouble
Valvoline advertises no benefit to Restore & Protect except piston cleaning. They do not advertise sludge removal. If R&P removed sludge, they would advertise it.
ok, and... so what? That wasn't the point of the video... the point was, many are reporting a massive slug of sludge being released by the R&P oil and plugging the filter. In my case, my effective maintenance demonstrates no sludge in my engine.
Motorcraft used to be good. Now it's a steaming pile of 💩. I switched to Microgard Select filters, which are made by the same company that makes STP oil filters. The difference in quality is like night and day.
@@DrivingIntelligence im sorry man, didnt mean it like that! im just saying in general there shouldnt be a ton of sludge in an engine as in enough to clog up an oil filter
Nice video. I used to use K&N filters until one time, and that's all it took, the welded nut on the bottom leaked. I caught it before it damaged the engine. I've used Mobil 1 filters ever since. No issues.
Great comment
K&N is crap quality
I have been doing religious oil and filter changes on my 2016 F-150, 3.5 Eco. Been using full synthetic and WIX filters every 4000 miles. 122K with no issues. Thanks for the update.
regular and frequent oil changes are the life blood of maintaining an engine.
I bought a 2006 chevy silverado with 228k miles on it that had some bad lifter tick at startup. I tried this oil out (after pouring some kerosene through the block with the drain plug out) and I'm now at 235k miles and no lifter tick. I think the tiny valve inside the lifter was stuck with some sludge, and the restore and protect got it loose. I'm happy with it and will continue to use it.
Thanks for your input, very interesting
I use primarily Wix, STP XL or Purolator filters. I agree with you, i don't think I'd be using that Motorcraft anymore. Nice video. Straight to the point.
thanks very much
Just did my oil change on my 2012 corolla s, Ive ran it with seafoam in the past and ive done intake cleaning and changed every fluid. Put this oil into it, Cant wait for my next oil change. This might be the only oil I use forever. Ive heard nothing but good news about this
Everything I hear is good other than those engines that have not been well-maintained and end up with massive amounts of sludge being released and clogging up the oil filter.
SeaFoam is for outboard boat motors. I hope you only "ran it" for a couple hundred miles right before the oil change.
@@JaykeBlayde I only ran a few ounces at a time, 1 ounce per quart of oil, but never again. My engine is fine and blow-by is reducing as I continue to use the Valvoline product.
Nice video. I’m on my 3rd run on Valvoline R&P. Oil analysis on 2 of those runs shows it keeps getting better. Oil consumption on my Honda Accord went from 2 quarts per 5k miles down to 1/2 quart per 5k miles. I hope you stay with R&P for at least 3-4 oil changes and see how it does for your truck. Good Luck
Those are some awesome statistics. I just made an 800 mile trip to Florida. Truck ran like a top. I’ll be making an update video soon.
I'm no expert, but I think that for heavily sludged engines, just about ANY fresh oil is going to dissolve and dislodge sludge and quickly deposit enough of it into the filter to make it bypass. If you have a sludge problem, it's probably best to use cheap conventional oil and do a series of very short OCIs until the oil runs clear. You'll be changing it so fast that the new oil won't have time to oxidize and form it's own sludge deposits.
This restore and protect is targeted at carbon deposits and varnish specifically in and around the piston ringlands. To the best of my knowledge, those deposits form even when using full synthetic oil at OEM recommended OCIs (but to a lesser degree). So it was kind of unavoidable until valvoline came out with this stuff.
I've seen valvetrain varnish get cleaned and flake off the inside of my valve covers after using normal castrol edge from the black bottle for about 40k miles. I'd like it if restore and protect acts faster, but valvoline only makes claims about piston deposits.
Compared to carbon deposits and varnish, sludge is kind of a separate issue that results from using conventional oil and not changing it often enough.
very good and very valid comment.
@@DrivingIntelligenceuse Valvoline Restore from Cummins. It’s way stronger the restore and protect. It’s only made for Cummins heavy truck repair centers. It was made to solve oil burning issues in Cummins engines. And is only to be used once it is so strong. About $80 a gallon.
@@MrHartless2007 sounds like it's super effective at cleaning rings and ring lands.
Wanted to add my experience... My e350 5.4 .. my 1.5 Prius all burn a little oil... Before oil changes I top off with marvel mystery oil .. it's mild but doing every oil change interval.. the oil stay cleaner longer and I burn slightly less oil.. for oil filters I make every effort to use wix and Purolator.. alternatives are fram xg .. tg or mobil.. I change oil every 4700-5500 miles.. rotella T6 5-40 in all vehicles
@brendancrosby2965 yes but restore and protect actually does it fast and keeps it off along with providing great lubrication.
It's used to remove the varnishes and keep the varnishes away. I'm using R&P and have noticed my engines are running smoother with it. You won't see the filters getting plugged during varnish removal and if you weren't sludged up to begin with. As long as your engine isn't damaged, you should notice improvements.
You make a good point. I clearly didn't have any sludge. I wish it were easy to see the condition of the pistons after several thousand miles, specifically the rings and ring lands.
Look into the Fram Endurance (Walmart only) or the Fram Ultra filters. The Fram Endurance is the same as Amsoil filters and has some of the best filtration and highest flow rate media you can buy currently. It’s not junk orange can Fram of the past anymore.
very good to hear
FRAM ENDURANCE,FRAM ULTRA,FRAM TITANIUM are ALL top of the line filters I have seen them all cut open and they are GOOD
Fram endurance will get clogged up sooner. Also, their bypass valve allows oil to pass by unfiltered.
You are better if you go with the Purolator Boss or a Microgard Select
@@littlet7556brand means little if a person uses a top quality filter and changes oil&filter at 4000 miles.
Endurance has a low capacity and filtration not much better than Purolator Boss.
The best oil filter is the Boss. Second best is Wix XP. Endurance/Amsoil is a third place. All use synthetic media with mesh.
I’ve got a 2013 f150 with the 3.7 liter. I changed my oil with the R&P for the first time 400 miles ago (3 days ago) and immediately it was smoother and quieter. I had assumed I had a motor mount that was starting to go, but within about 20 miles I couldn’t even feel the engine running at a stoplight. Mine has 194k miles on it, and has been well maintained. I have been a firm believer in royal purple for years because I get fantastic gas mileage out of it and it keeps my engines clean, however, I think I’m permanently making the switch. The only downside is I can’t find the valvoline anywhere except Walmart. Autozone, O’Reilly’s and advance don’t carry it near me. Other than that, no complaints.
Also my fuel mileage has increased by a mile per gallon.
interesting comment. I also used to use Royal Purple, which I still love and use for gear oil and transmission fluid, but I noticed the engine oil volatility rate was too high, burning off oil rather quickly. I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which I continue to use in my other vehicles until I finish reviewing the Valvoline product.
Yes, it is to help low tension rings stay clean. But, if your engine is old and dirty, watch the dip stick. If the oil gets too dark, swap in another filter.
Good comment, thanks.
I typically use amsoil signature series in my cars. I put it in my daughter's Subaru for the first time at around 60,000 miles and after about 6 months the cel came on for the vvt solenoid. The oil on the dipstick definitely looks nasty and this oil is supposed to be good for 20,000 miles, even though 6 is the most I would go. Long story short is that the oil worked so good at cleaning the motor that it actually had a negative effect.
I'm changing the oil today and pulling the solenoids to test and clean. This time I got the valvoline restore and protect to put in which is why I'm watching this video. I would have bought more amsoil but I have to order it online since no stores sell it here in southern California.
I'm hoping the amsoil did it's job and the valvoline will continue where it left off.
I have a large pipe cutter so I'll be splitting open the filter as well to see what it looks like.
I may actually do a video of it.
I'm surprised you had so much build-up in a 60k engine. What do you think was the cause?
@DrivingIntelligence not sure, car has always been well maintained. I didn't find any type of sludge but after cutting open the amsoil filter, it seemed to be pretty clogged. Also when I took the filter off, it let out a bunch of oil which I thought was odd.
In a Subaru, the filter is on the top and is made to drain. We have several subarus and I've worked on them for years and have never had that happen. My thought is that it was sooo clogged that it couldn't even drain by letting air through.
"oil is supposed to be good for 20,000 miles"
lol gotta love that marketing. why not just use a (much) cheaper oil and change it every 4k or so instead? your engine and your wallet will both love you.
@vinny6_9 ya, I would never actually go that long. 5000 max on her car and I change mine every 3000, mostly because I use ethanol and it gets in the oil.
Better oil definitely makes a difference though, all marketing bullshit aside. The reason I use amsoil exclusively is because I 100% felt a difference in the car when switching to amsoil. My car was brand new and after switching it felt like the car was tuned. Everything just seemed to work so much better and there was so much less friction in the engine. So, you can feel however you want to feel about it but I have no problem spending a little more for better oil and have first hand seen a difference in performance and cleaning ability.
Plenty of other people will tell you the same thing. It honestly isn't even that much more expensive.
If you have a 90's corolla then it probably makes no sense because that thing will run forever either way but newer motors with direct injection leave more carbon deposits and will ultimately run and last longer with better oil.
Here is my take on this, my 00' f150 5.4 has a little over 374k original engine with Vavoline 5w30. I only use motorcraft filters and spark plugs. No sludge!
I change the oil between 3K and 3.5k.
Awesome, are you the original owner?
@@DrivingIntelligence I bought it from a friend in 05', it had about 10k at that time.
Nice… I bought this truck with 165k miles on the clock.
A clogged filter means it was doing it's job.
Interesting point of view. Makes sense…
The Valvoline Restore and Protect is designed in such a way that it breaks down the sludge and carbon deposits so that it will not foul out filters. 😊
ANY cleaning product added to a DIRTY engine will cause carbon to break loose and get caught in the oil filter. DUH. Why is this a “surprise” for you people? 🤨🤦🏻♂️
I heard this from Valvoline, but I think cruddy engines are going to have more sludge and varnish released from the engine and into the filter causing pluggage.
not a surprise, rather, this R&P is supposed to be so effective at releasing the crud much faster and more effectively than other oils.
I worry about the filters as that's alot of sludge to clean away
@@SyrupCanuck if you have a very well-maintained car with frequent oil changes then you won’t have a sludge problem
Wix regular filter is one to buy.
for now I'm sticking with Purolator Boss until I inspect the filter at the next oil change.
Currently running R&P on a lacross with 150k miles .1k miles so far and I have noticed it is quieter then before, it was quite before but it definitely smoothed out the engine sounds. I’ll do a change and run R&P again at the 3k mark.
the consistent opinion is that engines run quieter using this oil
Same here, im currently in my 2nd oci & will be doing 2, maybe 3 more changes with R&P then I will switch back to Valvoline High mileage Adv Max Life. That should keep my engine close to pristine
Purolator is a decent filter for the money. Either the blue (midrange) or the black (top end) filter. ford boss me has cut open and for the money, I've been running almost two years since I can grab at menards either my oil and get 11% rebate!
very nice, thanks for the comment
I am using the Valvoline R&P on my next oil change for my 2011 Honda Civic at 150,000 miles , up to the coming change it's been nothing but Honda Service Oil Changes for 13 years straight !
I would say I get 98% positive reviews of those that have started using Valvoline R&P. Seems to be a good oil.
Buy Purolator Boss or Napa Platinum. They’re the best. Or even the new Fram Synthetic Endurance is awesome
I've switched to Boss... once I get to the next oil change, I'll open it up and see how it looks.
Good video thanks for the data point! I just made a video with all of the comments from my VRP videos, and so far most people claim this oil works!
My improvements are a little subjective, I definitely have reduced piston slap, but the oil consumptions has reduced which was a welcome outcome. I'll check out your video.
It’s not only the micron pore size but also the surface area of the filter media and for that you’ll have to cut the media out of the filter, lay it out flat and measure the width and length to calculate the area… so less pleats doesn’t necessarily equate to less area
fair point
@ plus you need to know the media pore size
My 2024 GMC Acadia Denali direct injection turbo 4 is at 5k miles with 2 dealer oil changes. I will now be switching to the Valvoline R&P 0W-20 every 5k miles in an effort to prevent carbon and sludge buildup.
Sounds like a great plan...
That's not sludge. The filter did its job. Although, the best thing to do is look in the can. Soot and sludge will build up there. You dumped out the oil but didn't really inspect the can.
interesting point, will keep that in mind. I didn't show it in the video, but the cans were clean.
So far I have two complete oil changes on the VR&P and other than a darker filter medium I've seen no sludge in my 2016 Toyota Highlander with 117k. I just bought a 1998 RV with a BBC 7.4L 454 which I plan on using it in. Only has 46k on the motor but it is old.
Looks like well maintained engines don't have sludge build-up, just varnish. I've used quality synthetic oils since about 1990.
Change your oil as often as you change your underoos and your good to go ! ! !
Lol!!!
May I suggest that you wear protective gloves when you handle used motor oil, as the oil is a soup of combustion products and wear metals.
Very good point, thank you
Great I just bought 2 of those motorcraft filters I was wondering why they were only 4$ each. Now I know.
Maybe use them for a couple thousand, toss them and put a Purolator or Wix in its place.
I still change my oil every 3,000 miles, using cheap Halvoline oil and Supertech filter from Wal-mart. The interior of the Pentastar 3.6 still looks great at 164,000 miles. I also run an Edelbrock supercharger.
Thanks for sharing
You should try Purolator Boss filters. They are by far more superior than both STP, and Motorcraft.
I will try that filter at the next oil change.
yes. 20 micron 99% rated. Good luck finding that micron rating on other brands filters. Purolator is the OG
@@JaykeBlayde I now how the Boss on both my Cadillac CTS V and my 2002 F150. ;)
Purolater literally makes Motorcraft filters for Ford my guy..
@@Ken-h9r yes however to Ford spec, using the lower quality filter media (80% efficiency) not the PureONE filter media (99.9% efficiency/20 micron)
Been using this stuff in my gals Hyundai that loves to burn oil ,before I was constantly topping it off every week, now it’s every 2 weeks I do believe it cleaned the rings a bit . I will give it another month or 2
Thanks for your comment. Let me know how it goes.
I've been using restore and protect in both of my 10th gen F150s and V10. Man, you have a nice shop!
thanks very much!
Puralator Boss or Fram Synthetic endurance (Walmart only)
is the only oil filters ill use. theres been plenty of testing to show those are the top performing oil filters
I'm currently using the Boss filter, but I might also try the Royal Purple Filter, I heard they are also good.
Amsoil oil filter is nearly identical (down to the stamp marks on the components) to the Fram Endurance. The only difference in the side by side tear down was the Amsoil had slightly more filter media in the particular model tested.
@@charlescolenaty3541 interesting comment
Thanks for doing that. I’m about to start using this oil on my F150 5.0. Already clean engine and it seems this oil is a game changer. We’ll see.
It’s done amazing things for my 262,000 mile 5.4
Mobil 1 Extended ( green ) filters and Wix Gold filters are some of the best on the market.
Seems there are many that are better than that Motorcraft Filter
super informative, thanks! Nice to see you introduce your crew. I just started using this oil and will be doing my own analysis of oil filters.
BTW, Next time, I'd love to see you wear gloves when handling that toxic juice. Do yourself and your family a favor by staying healthy and living a long life❤. (Just looking out for you brother, not nagging)
no nag! thanks for the recommendation. I will follow your advice. Thank you very much.
The Step Side 10th gen looks good with those 6 lug wheels.
Thanks, they make a huge difference in appearance
Wix filters all day long, best filter you can buy IMO. They also make the Napa Gold filters which are excellent.
thanks for your input
I used Wix for decades, then about 5 years ago I started getting a lot of overnight oil drain-back, noticeable by a longer time for pressure to come up on first start, and lifter rattle until the pressure builds. Wix changed hands a number of years back, and I think they’re no great thing anymore. Not on my “good” list at all. They’re more expensive, but I use either Royal Purple or Amsoil EAO wire-backed synthetic media filters. Both are actually made by Champion Labs. A middle ground alternative is the Mobil 1 filter, also made by Champion but with a more conventional media.
@@stevelacker358 this is very interesting, sometimes my engine is more mechanical sounding when it has sat for a while. Something for me to consider.
To properly compare the pleats, I would recommend cutting them out of the metal caps, then see the total surface area of the pleats. Just because they're not as densely packed on the motorcraft filter, doesn't mean that it's an inferior filter. The pleats might be deeper, thus the reason there are less than another brand. Also, check the micron ratings of the filters. The best filters are a paper filter (instead of fiberglass to metal). If the filter is a 10 micron filter, it should be twice the size of a 25 micron filter (just a generalization). The more the media can actually filter, means the less it can actually flow, thus the "better" filters should be bigger than the OEM filter. If the filter isn't bigger than the OEM, chances are they are going to filter the same microns, because they all use the same paper filter.
Good comment, thanks
Fram Ultra Synthetic filters have tested extremely well, are easy to find and cheaper than motorcraft
thank you
I'm going to run this oil next change. Chevron Delo 400 HDEO, 5w40 cured the piston slap in my 2010 Forester with EJ253 in 4 oil changes. Bought it in 2018 with 130k miles. 179k now. Still quiet.
Interesting, I'll keep that in mind after I finish this test.
@@DrivingIntelligence
I used it thinking the 5w40 was a little thicker and might quiet it. Didn't help at first but got progressively quieter until it went away completely. I'm thinking the higher detergent cleaned and loosened the rings. Been running ST synthetic 5w30 for a few years now and it hasn't come back. I'm going to try this Valvoline R&P now. Why not? Can't hurt.
Good luck. I hope it quiets yours down.
@@pedlpower thanks for the comment, I do feel my engine is quieter. Piston Slap is reduced and I hope with continued use it will get better. Now about 4k miles into this test.
This is why I like German cars sometimes. The canister filter cartridges are easy to inspect
I do like that style filter
Not a great reason to buy a German car!
@@oldjarhead386 allegedly
Wix and Napa filters have the longest (most) filter media.
A cheap filter might have a foot or more less filter media than a Wix or Napa filter.
And Wix makes the Napa filters, they just put another name on them.
Good to know
It used to be true that Wix made Napa filters. It's not _always_ true today. Napa today uses filters from multiple sources, including China, that meet its specifications.
@@kirkdarling4120 gotcha
STP filters are Amazing very well built. Always a bargain price with oil in Autozone. Air filters and gas treatment stp are Good too. No issues. The Top end Fram filter is the same as Amsoil filter.
Thanks for the comment... good to know. By the way, the cheapest place I found to buy engine oil is Walmart. About 2/3s the price of oil in the automotive parts stores.
@@DrivingIntelligence yes it might be a little cheaper. But Buying 5 items in Autozone above 20 Dollard you get points and get 20 later free to use in anything.
@haac4825 good point
yeah im currently using the xl stp filter on my impreza liking it so far
Just started running Champ xl filters. Great value on rock auto. Synthetic media, silicone adbv for less than 4$ a piece
Thanks for that info... good stuff
I have a 2011 Chev Suburban w/ 135k miles. I bought it with 115k. It had no piston slap when I bought it. Fist oil change the slap showed up. I’ve tried various additives to calm the slap unsuccessfully. Clearly the dealer had a method to hide the slap.
I’m now on this Valvoline R& P and the slap persists. At my wits end over this.
Suggestions???
What additive quiets the slap???
You mighty try a thicker oil, but I would stay away from additives. What viscosity are you running now? What viscosity does your Suburban call for?
I just put R&R in my car. Put in a Purolator boss filter as well. My car has been getting oil changes at about 5,000 MI. But it does have 230k on the odometer. My car usually burns a quart every 10k miles. Then again my oil is changed between 4500 and 7k
that's pretty impressive, 1 quart per 10k miles.
While there didn't appear to be what i would call, "sludge" in the valve cover area, there was a LOT of varnish. I would think if there's that much varnish in the v. cover area, its probably a lot worse down below. What oil have you been using previously? And at what interval have you been changing it?
He said he had he had been using Pennzoil Utra Platinum and Royal Purple. That amount of varnish is troubling.
@@robertslegers257 Is that varnish? Might be, but all the videos I've seen indicate a golden color is appropriate for the valve train area. Comparing what others have shown of a clean engine, I feel mine is very clean. I was running from 5k-7k miles between oil changes, now going to about 4.5k miles.
@@DrivingIntelligence That Golden Hue comes from the works of using only Full Synthetic Oils. Nothing to be really concerned about
@@DrivingIntelligencethat gold color is varnish, dude.
Ok, dude
Purolator Boss filters are about the best you can get!
that is what I'm currently running
Thanks for posting! I’m about to change my oil at 1500 with Valv RP and now I wanna buy an oil filter cutter! I did add a few of those neodymium magnets. Btw I’ve used Mobil 1, Amsoil, now on Purolator Boss. I’m planning to do one more oil change with Valv then move to Amsoil. I already use them for transmission, gears My Acura will almost have 200k 2006 and have always changed oil before 5k, used penzoil ultra platinum before Valv.
I like Wix filters you do your own research and see but it scores pretty high in most tests I’ve seen. Good luck 🤞.
Thanks, I've started using Purolator Boss
When you switch to this oil it's best to shorten your oil intervals at least for the first 3-4 oil changes. I never follow dealership intervals i always change my oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles.
Change your oil every 300,000 miles I recommend
I’m changing between 3,500 and 4,500 miles which should be good enough for properly maintained engines with quality oil.
@DrivingIntelligence I change mine every 2500- 3000 miles anyway. But I would do it at 3000 for at least 2-3 changes. Your filter will be black like in the video because it actually does what it states which is clean out your engine.
Purolator BOSS here! David Pearson #21 Mercury!
The "Boss" is what I've started using ;)
I've been having great results with Pennzoil UP and Valvoline Maxlife high mileage for the last 30k. I won't discount the new Restore and Protect, but i'd rather wait for a couple years to see how it plays out. The filter sludge(on different videos) is my main concern, but i do keep my 2014 F150 oil running clean. At this point, stick to what works. Thanks for the video!
Great point!
I would call Restore & Protect a 2nd Gen. 1st Gen worked too fast... Premium Blue Restore oil was co-developed with Cummins. Source: The Motor Oil Geek. Go watch the lab conversation.
This here video about real-world experience confirms... pick a great filter for your vehicle and this use case AND inspect and change often. An oversized filter will likely screw up the bypass pressure required... this is not the time to f around and find out.
I was buying and using motorcraft filters a lot with the 500s. I have swapped over to the Purolator boss on this go around. I may be wrong but motorcraft filters aren't made by Purolator now.
I need to try the boss and cut it open to see the difference.
I use this in my Volvo XC60 and Subaru Forester and absolutely love it. I won’t use anything else.
seems to be the general consensus, thanks for the comment.
Great garage man
Thank you! I love it
Lot of years working toward this stage in my life.
I totally subscribe to Hunter's philosophy - let's just open it up and see...smart kid there!
Lol, he’s a sweet kid.
So how many miles have you driven it? 3000? You said the piston slap is gone and the oil consumption?
You should do a follow up and scrape the filter with like a flathead on both filters just to see what the gunk buildup is like, I really couldn't see much difference between the two filters based on the video. But you didnt exactly spread em' either.
I'll keep that in mind for the next video.
So you have an update?
Not yet, what details are you looking for?
@@DrivingIntelligence Is love to see what’s underneath the valve covers
Pulling those valve covers is a beast, not going to do that. I will do that to my Mustang. Just started using Restore & Protect in that engine.
Maybe I can scope the F150
@@DrivingIntelligence I feel you L🤣L!!!
Motorcraft is fine.... The diameter is bigger so even though it may have less pleats, the element area is the same while making it easier too flow more volume.
The way I think about it, more surface area will flow more oil with less pressure drop. Also, more surface area will be able to filter more for a longer time. Of course, if changing oil within 4-5k miles, I would say it is likely irrelevant.
I used it and got p0420 code within 50 miles. The light has stayed on.
Interesting… the only way I can see this happening is if the engine had not been well maintained and the oil released a significant amount of carbon deposits damaging the catalytic converter or the oxygen sensor.
Strictly opinion:
The motorcraft filter isn’t bad, it’s designed that way to suit its application. That is of course, not to say there isn’t better filters because there surely are.
That is all.
to be honest, my opinion was partially formed by a video I saw comparing older Motorcraft filters to newer filters and the difference in build quality and number of flutes was significant. I wasn't opening the filter to check the quality, just to see if full of sludge.
@
Completely fair and understandable
What happened with the transmission?
Lost 3rd gear... here's my video showing the root cause.
1qt/1000miles to 1qt/1600miles is .625qt/1000miles. So a 37.5% reduction in oil consumption.
Thanks for that math correction Mr. Professor
@@DrivingIntelligence ha anytime I can make myself feel smart. Looking forward to more follow ups on the R&P oil.
@@vica153 I should have more soon.. stay tuned.
Is there ANY downside to using this R&P oil ? .... meaning.... what if you do this to a high mileage engine that runs well.....but are unsure of the varnish/sludge condition....can the immediacy of any cleansing start to clog things like VVT valves and such?. I changed out a bad VVT valve recently and things looked good, just a darker oil color film on the unit but it moved smoothly. Basically asking... "Can it dislodge unknown sludge and now the car is worse because the dislodged stuff clogs something?"
This is a very good question that I cannot legitimately answer with ANY accuracy. What I can say is the following, Valvoline claims they formulated this oil to slowly clean the engine and prevent fast removal of deposits which can cause damage and pluggage. My opinion, if you've been routine with your maintenance throughout the life of your engine, you should be ok with the R&P, but again, this is an opinion.
@@DrivingIntelligence ,...thank you for responding. I guess the key word from Valvoline "slowly" is important. And yes....I've been keeping up with steady-routine oil/filter changes BUT only since I bought the car at 155,000 miles.....it now has 300,000 and still drives perfectly....so maybe I shouldn't change my routine.
I don't know why you are looking for sludge in a well maintained engine. Sludge occurs in engines that don't see regular service. I had sludge and caked deposits clog my oil pump pickup on a van I bought used. I guess the previous owner never changed the oil that often and when I started changing the oil, all the stuff broke loose and ended up in the oil pan. As a result it had very low oil pressure. I ended up pulling the oil pan and cleaning out all the chunks and sludge and after that it never had that problem again.
I was pretty confident I didn't have any sludge, but there has been so much hype about clogged oil filters using R&P I needed to see for myself with my properly maintained engine.
Could be because he used the new restore and protect and wanted to see how it looked.
great product.. and thats a sweet garage!😎🤣💪🏻
I love it! Thank you!
If you have NOT maintained your engine with routine oil changes, you can probably expect a clogged filter, but that is NOT Valvoline’s problem, that is yours.
Agreed
@ I have started out a brand new Toyota with it, hopefully it will protect and keep clean from the start, and not have to get to the restore feature.
@@wk7060 I think that's a good call
BG Products has a flushing kit for sludge removal .
Understand... I didn't think I have sludge, but with all the hype, I was concerned, that's why I checked it at 3k miles.
@@DrivingIntelligence Ok , at my 5000 miles oil / filter change . I always use an engine flush , BG EPR , Liqui-Moly or AmsOIl . And when oil is draining I can see through it as in golden brown . Couldn't change last time at 5000 miles , now around 6000 miles . But , last time I did not use a engine flush and now checking dipstick and it is very dark . I expect it was not using a flush last time .
@@peterrudy9207 I'm not getting why a flush would create a clear oil when draining from the engine. I would think it would be dirtier.
@@DrivingIntelligence I think it is geting rid of any residual dirt , each and everytime .
That picture showing when you stated rebuild was spotless was anything but spotless. The head in that picture has very heavy varnishing. Which is how sludge begins. A spotless Ford head is brightly colored aluminum. The head in the picture had had a life of extended oil changes. I hope you wee showing to old head and I misunderstood.
BTW it is 100% normal for a Ford modular to slap few a short period of time after a cold start. It should go away after the piston warms and expands to its proper side. As it wears it might take a bit longer. If you used forged pistons it will probably be pretty noise until full warmup. Perfectly normal if the bores were matched to the pistons properly during rebuild.
Is your HD truck a supercharged version? They have different pistons.
Thanks for this comment, I'm learning. I had heard that a bronze color is good, but I'm getting more and more comments that the color indicates varnish. I bought the truck with 165K on the clock. Since then I have used quality synthetic oils with changes at about 7k miles and have just recently reduced this to 3-4K, primarily after pulling the transmission and seeing the carbon above the crank at the extreme back of the block. My HD F150 is supercharged and has ZERO piston slap, and I can confirm that using Valvoline R&P has noticeably reduced piston slap in the White XLT. It's not gone, but it is much quieter both at startup and during normal operation (I covered Triton piston slap in another video). Pretty surprised at this result. If I had sludge, I believe I would have seen it in the filter when I opened it, but there was none. Needless to say, my other vehicles have had much more frequent oil changes because I hardly drive them, this truck is my daily driver and sees much more abuse.
Exactly - that head has heavy varnish. The rest of the engine surely looks the same. Definitely not clean per se. There’s more to being dirty than just having sludge - OP appears to be new to this. That varnish was caused by using conventional/semi synthetic oil and/or too long of a change interval.
@@Trebor-gw8lt Should get cleaned with tighter oil change intervals... I'm going no more than 4,500 miles between oil changes now, 3,000 last change. Since I bought the truck with 165,000 miles, I've been using high quality synthetics.
I use the cheapest bulk filters I can buy,210k miles no problems. With 5k oci in commercial use
good to know
That gold color in the valve train is varnish and should be removed by restore and protect.
thanks for the comment
I put marvel mystery oil in because I thought my engine was fairly clean just to do a little cleanup turned out It wasn’t, it actually was very dirty and within 25 miles it plug my oil filter and bypassed all the crap into my bearings and killed my engine
wow, very sorry to hear that.
My son used Valvoline high mileage oil in a Ford van..it now has 300.000 on it..
That's awesome!
I’ve used Motorcraft all my life. 71 F100 302. Sad to say their quality has slipped a good bit.
Wix XP is the way my friend.
Thx for your input
1:22-1:32 I'm not quite sold on this oil. But if it removes the varnish off the top of the cylinder head, under the valve cover, and is clean grey and silver, like the day it was assembled, then I'll believe all the hype. Because if it doesn't remove the varnish, which is just a thinner version of the build-up around the rings...
Copy/pasted: Valvoline Restore & Protect claims that it can remove up to 100% of PISTON DEPOSITS when used for four or more consecutive oil changes at standard maintenance intervals.
Because I would use this oil (if) it would remove engine varnish too, not just build up around the piston rings. I can't see the piston rings, but I can see the top of the cylinder head. This fantastic claim is "hidden" inside the engine, not viewable except by removing the pistons from the engine. Who is in their garage removing the pistons to check on the effects of an oil change? Pistons, yeah right! Valve cover, maybe. Show me a clean, varnish free cylinder head and valve train, then I'll think about switching for my 2004 C5 Corvette with 130k miles.
Excellent comment
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you for a kind comment. I hope it removes the varnish too. If it does, Valvoline Restore & Protect is one of the best, if not the BEST!
It has a high Calcium number on virgin oil analysis, also Zinc. Calcium is a cleanser.
Thanks for your comment
Change the oil/filter every 3000 - 5000mil there will not be any sludge build up. Those who complain about sludged up filters have not been serviceing their vehicles.
If this Valvoline oil is loosening up the burnt on laquar deposits then I ask are they useing oven cleaner as an additive? Must be some very strong chemicle to do that!
you make a very good point! But so far so good with the R&P. Engine is running great.
K&N and Mobil oil filters are expensive. WIX are excellent and fairly priced. Valvoline R&P oil with WIX filter is a winning combo
Good input
The cheapest for Mobil 1 filters near me would be Walmart.
If the oil filter is oriented vertically, as it should be in the majority of applications. The anti drain back valve is utterly useless
makes sense, the only vehicle I own with a vertical oil filter is my Cadillac CTS-V with the LS2 engine, and the oil filter is incredibly small.
im on second restore and protect change, both of them ive had at 2,500 miles to be safe. i have a 2019 hyundai ioniq and it was burning oil, so far most of the oil burning has stopped and it sounds quieter when running. no idea how the valvoline improved that or the science behind it. only thing im more worried sbout is that since its a hybrid GDI engine, that restore and protect still cant get to the valves since its gdi... i wish i knew the build up levels in there at 230,000 miles
Do you know if your engine has two sets of injectors per cylinder? One being port injection and the other being GDI? Some companies have added the second injector to clean the valves. As far as the Restore & Protect cleaning the valves, my guess would be not likely, but it might help reduce additional deposits. Pulling the intake is the best way to check the level of deposits, but the other way is to perform a compression test to see if the cylinders are sealing, low compression could mean carbon buildup on the valves.
@@DrivingIntelligence no it’s just a plain GDI engine connected to a hybrid system and a 6 speed dual clutch transmission. I dont even know if I need walnut blasting or cleaning. Everything is so hard to access and check out in a compact hybrid car. Even transmission is super hard to reach. I’m already having cat converter problems.
@@TaylorPhase newer cars are getting harder and harder to work on because in my opinion, manufacturers don't design for maintainability, they only want to get 100K out of the vehicle.
@@DrivingIntelligence that’s only two years worth of driving for me lol
@PhaseSkater lol
Great oil
Definitely helping me… I’m now running in my Mustang and CTS V
PurolatorONE, 15K rated at 20 micron 99% filtration or if you are a boutique oil (Amsoil, HPL) extended OCI enjoyer and drive mostly highway miles and have to have thuh besst then PurolatorBOSS for 20K miles same 20 micron 99% filtration. Pro Tip: good luck finding the micron rating on other brands filters.
I now how the Boss on both my Cadillac CTS V and my 2002 F150. ;)
i have had valve covers off of engines i have had over the years and i never get sludge. the biggest thing to combat sludge is to change the oil regularly. i use walmart supertech full synthetic, nothing exotic but a decent oil no less. 4K mile oil changes, all of this nonsense of 5, 6, 7, 8K oil changes is asking for trouble
Good practice, this is what makes vehicles last 100's of thousands of miles.
Wix xp, purolator pure 1 oil filters.
currently using Purolator Boss
Valvoline advertises no benefit to Restore & Protect except piston cleaning. They do not advertise sludge removal. If R&P removed sludge, they would advertise it.
ok, and... so what? That wasn't the point of the video... the point was, many are reporting a massive slug of sludge being released by the R&P oil and plugging the filter. In my case, my effective maintenance demonstrates no sludge in my engine.
Why dont hou cut the caps off of both filters, see how much diffrence there is in amount of paper media, square inches,😉
good point, I'll do that in the future
Motorcraft used to be good. Now it's a steaming pile of 💩.
I switched to Microgard Select filters, which are made by the same company that makes STP oil filters. The difference in quality is like night and day.
thanks for that input, I need to check those filter out.
@@DrivingIntelligence
ua-cam.com/video/tMo3P6y_3Xg/v-deo.html
You just gave a great definition of piston slap while trying to say it’s not piston slab.
Never have I said it’s not piston slap, dude
With respect, perhaps it was purposely designed that way by Ford?
Zero sludge? Your valve train area is clean.
It’s possible, but I’ve seen that the flutes and the glue are not as good as they were previously.
It was very clean after thousands of miles using Royal Purple.
Buy microgard filter is the best
microfiber?
@DrivingIntelligence microgard filter
Ah, ok, thanks
if you use restore and protect and there are no issues it means you maintained your vehicle well
I always look forward to classy, intelligent comments like this.
@@DrivingIntelligence im sorry man, didnt mean it like that! im just saying in general there shouldnt be a ton of sludge in an engine as in enough to clog up an oil filter
Stick with oem filters
I’m with the Purolator Boss now, going to see what it looks like inside once I get to next oil change.
*pleats.
The oil is doing exactly what it says it will do. I don’t see a problem.
Who said there's a problem? Are you sure you watched my video? Or maybe you didn't actually watch it?
Buy a Wix…
I think I'll try that and Purolator.
you waited too long
Too long for what? Santa Claus?
Compared with your results, your title to this video is unnecessarily provocative.
Oh my, and there will be sequels! Don’t lose your dentures!
Piston Slap😂
yup... I've got it and this oil is reducing it...