If you have a very sludgy engine, and use restore and protect, and it cleans the engine.... Gues where it's gonna go??? Your oil filter!!! When moving from a conventional to any syn oil, for the first 3 oil changes reduce the change interval to 3k. And do a filter change at 1000 to 1500. After 4 cycles of this you should stop getting the rapid build up in your filter.
It goes to the filter, but the oil is also designed to hold a lot of it in suspension. It does a great job of that. Definitely advisable to do a short interval if it's the first time using it and you know your engine is likely very dirty.
@@brassmule Bingo. Anything smaller than 5 microns is likely going through the filter pleats anyway, like you said the oil is formulated to hold contaminants in suspension.
@@MrSamPhoenix Access is easy but the "valve cover" on these engines is a structural piece with the upper half of the cam journals. Gotta lock the cams in place, take off the timing belt, and something like 40 bolts in very specific sequence. Uses anaerobic sealant instead of RTV or standard gasket. I had to do that job twice on my slightly older V70. These models have a baffle beneath the oil filler cap too, so can't even get a good look. Earlier models lacked the baffle so could see the #3 intake cams through the fill port and get an idea of how much crud was in the top end.
I just got a new to me tractor and have been running it for about 50 hours now, first oil change was around 15hrs as i was worried about the filter clogging. I should have cut the filter open to see what it looked like
I picked up a 92 f250 with the 5.8. It has 240k miles and I just did an oil change using this oil. My plan is to replace the cheap fram filter every 1k miles just for safe measure until the 2nd or third oil change.
Hmm… why a “cheap fram oil filter” ? Run something that’s gonna be efficient at catching all the crap that’s getting broken loose. I have 0 faith in a cheap orange Fram. We’re talking maybe $20 difference in several changes.
@DirtE30 it's cheap enough for peace of mind. If I'm going through 4 filters per oil change, would you still recommend i go with the slightly higher priced option? Keep in mind that I'm still within the 5k oil change interval, but the only thing that's getting changed every 1k miles is the filter. I plan to keep that up until the 4th or 5th oil change, which is about 16 filters later. Afterward, regular oil/filter changes
Yes, I'm doing exactly this, a mid-OCI filter change. I'm actually doing a 3k-mile oil interval with a 1,500-mile filter change for my first use of Valvoline R&P. I'll do another filter change when I change the oil, and then assess whether one is necessary halfway through my next 3k miles.
Im on my third change with the 5w20. The first two changes were real bad. The first being a ford blend and the second being the restore and protect. I noticed i had a bad EGR valve. After changing the oil and valve im now at 1500 miles on golden oil. I drive it hard and the stuff looks like new. Those EGR valves are a plague on us all.
I'm just gonna stick with what I've been using with very good results. I use either Valvoline Max Life HM or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Been changing my oil every 5k. However, since it's approaching 100K, i change the oil every 3k.
I think your major premise is just saying don't run the filter to 5k if you know your engine has a bunch of build up. I don't get why people are saying that you're talking crap lol. If i ran the restore and protect through my 08 Pontiac G6 part getting car with 265k, I'd change it at 3k to hopefully avoid the filter getting slam packed with gunk, just to help the process of the cleaning factor that this oil is known for. ESPECIALLY since if your filter is clogged, it'll just bypass and all that crud will just get thrown back in the engine which is kinda what we're trying to get rid of. Noice anything different with the vehicle before and after?
@@Ibonic yes. I’m just demonstrating that the R&P definitely does what it claims and that one should be aware of the effects of that on oil filter life. Engine is quieter by far already. Was also getting intermittent exhaust cam phaser position faults that have now cleared up. Notorious issue with carbon getting clogged in the inlet strainers of the VVT solenoids.
My 2ARFE Camry loves R&P I'm on my second oil change with it and as car care not said never go past 5k on the Toyotas with that. It's helped my consumption issues and it was cleaner on the second change so I imagine it'll get better by fourth. I may go back to the advanced once it's clean. What was the mileage and model vehicle in video ? That could definitely make a difference in how dark the oil is maybe your car is junk
Interesting how fast it works. Not a bad idea to change more often until cleaner. I think that filter did have some life left in it, lots of surface area in there.
Clogged oil filters with Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP) on older sludge-monster, carboned-up engines have been reported by others. If I were Valvoline, I would tell people that IF they have an engine with over 100,000 miles and want to use VRP, change the oil filter at 2,000 miles max, and the oil itself at 4,000 miles, just to be sure clogging doesn't affect much. At least for the first oil change with VRP. After that, 8 months and/or 8,000 miles would probably be fine.
The oil itself at 4k miles? And then after that every 8mo or 8k miles?! 😳😳🤯🤯 ... I see you like to live dangerously my friend lol i have a feeling your said 8k cuz you normally do 10k oil changes... Every mechanic will tell you that's BS and not one will agree with the 10k oil changes. The oils properties are broken down by then and lost it's effectiveness... Stop trying to save $40 at the cost of an engine. Smh. Saving pennies to spend thousands .. change your oil at 3k all the time. Unless you have something going on like this R&P obv
@softftwaresignals I use this in my 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with over 130k miles. Never a clogged or dirty filter 😂. I have always changed my oil at 5k miles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder 😀
@@js-wq6zy hmm… interesting. Typically the black oil is due to soot from combustion in diesel engines. I’ve never had one stay golden for long. Maybe you can report back once you have a lot of hours on that oil?
When I change my oil I also set my new filter in a dirty oil pan so I do good work. Sometimes I even set them on the dusty floor. Just the way jiffy lube or Walmart trains their employees
Switched to restore and protect 2 oil changes ago. Changed 2 different cars filters at 2500 just to be sure.... There was NO extra anything in the filter - metal or sludge. It was a precaution but honestly a waste of money. If it's sludged, it's the previous maintenance regimen. It's not gonna bust up that much in 2500 miles unless it was trashed to begin with. But I'm with ya, fram isn't the trash it's portrayed to be. Fordbossme has some decent things to say about fram.
I just started using it in my car and will change the filter around 1.5k and see what's going on in there. My car has only run M1 and Royal Purple full synthetics prior to this. Now its at 82k and I'm hoping that if anything is on the rings that this will gently cleanse it away. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep on using it or go back to RP as my engine is clean and the dipstick isn't varnished.
You definitely need to change the filter a couple of times during your first use of restore and protect because all the garbage it breaks loose is going into the filter.
So is this oil something i need to use i change my oil every 5,000 miles and it looks very vlean on dip stick car has only 10,000 miles on it 3 cylinder turbo😊
Fellas, save yourself a lot of oil filter trouble and do the 505 CRO treatment FIRST. Drain the oil, preplace filter, Then do the Valvoline R and P. I did that with my Scion XA and I ran the R and P for 3000 miles, no sludge in the filter, just dark oil.
From every video I’ve seen with this oil, it just seems like it’s Valvoline synthetic with engine flush built in. Similar results to when I buy a used car and run some Liqui Moly engine flush to clean the engine. Oil always comes out super dirty. I guess if you run this all the time it will level out and your engine will surely be sparkling clean inside. 😁
Watch the motor oil geeks 2 videos about this stuff. They go over how they make the stuff and explain why you need to change it often when first using it. They changed the formula to clean more slowly because in their tests they found if it cleaned TOO quickly it does just that. Clogs the filter and causes oil starvation. Thats why they recommend using over 4 or 5 oil changes, to clean it out slowly
@@pdlegend6829 so long as the filter has a bypass there will be no oil starvation. But either way yes, change it often and the stuff does what it says!
@ agreed… however most everything I’m seeing so far is small enough to make it thought the pickup but large enough to not hurt the pump. Of course that’s just what DID make it through the pickup screen right! lol So far no issues with oil pressure. First indicator of that would be prolonged lack of oil pressure on cold starts and that hadn’t changed at all.
Valvoline R&P is for neglected engines. I have been using Mobil 1 since my truck (2002 Silverado) was new. OCI about 2,000 miles (once a year on average). I recently pulled the valve covers to replace the gaskets....the inside of the valve covers and rockers/springs had zero dirt/carbon..... so no R&P for me. If you do the maintenance......you don't need specialty products.
More pleats on your filter isn't necessarily a good thing. The filter may have more pleats cuz it is a less effective material like paper that clogs more easily. Wix uses a more efficient synthetic media.
@@DirtE30 Yes and no... Paper is basically 2 dimensional material with a single mesh size like a fishing net. Whereas the synthetic filters are a 3 dimensional blown polymer mesh. So the mesh gets smaller deeper into the filter material. This effectively means the synthetic material has several times more filtering ability for a given area than paper.
then why put 'buyer beware' next to 'major sludge' if it's doing what is advertised. that's why people are mixing it up, ofc the sludge has to go somewhere
There’s no mixup. If you have an engine that has been neglected, beware that the sludge is going to clog up the filter quickly. Not sure what the confusion is here. This is an issue if you’re going to use the product which DOES work as advertised.
Well, thanks…. Doing , my first VALVO R&P / VALVOLINE Filter , next week,( 110,000,mi., 2015 Journey::interestingly, first 95,000 + miles, OCI 3000/ 3 month Mopar CONVENTIONAL 5W-20/)……Background checked, & plan PUROLATOR Boss @1000 miles two time , just in Case, etc… Then Jan 2025 2007 Canyon @150,000 miles to VALVO R& P, etc…..
If you've got a sludgy engine I think you're better off doing a piston soak or something to get as much carbon out before you start using VRP. It cleans really well, almost too well and starts sending all that stuff out through the exhaust. It ends up being pretty rough on the cat converter.
It's hilarious to see all these commenters claiming Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP) cleaned up their engines because that proves they were not doing timely (6 month/5,000 mile) oil changes to begin with!
That is one horribly spaced and not great looking Fram filter. i hope that was the free filter they throw in when you buy an "oil change kit" at O'Reilly's.
Anyone who uses fram filters needs their brains checked, they are proven to be the worst brand of oil filters known, go watch a few reputable oil filter comparisons, a lot of their inner filters are made out of cardboard & check ball bypass design is atrocious.
Stop the propaganda! If you have been doing 5k mile oil changes with synthetic this does not happen 😂. We have been using Valvoline Restore and Protect with zero issues because we properly maintain our vehicles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
Fairly certain he mentioned this Engine had/has a sludge issue... So Yes while Valvoline does claim VRP won't clog the Filter during a normal Change Interval... It can't/doesn't guarantee an "abused" (dirty) engine won't show a heavily dirty filter. I myself am coming up on 3000 miles on my 2014 2.4L GMC Terrain's first interval with VRP and when I checked my filter at 811 miles it (FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG9018) it looked similar to this one... Can't say it had any heavy deposits... But compared to another vehicle's filter (@700 miles, uses same filters as the Terrain) it still retained much of its original color (K&N red)... IMO, I wasn't expecting the K&N to be in such good shape (that engine while having used Synthetic for much of its 21 Years/192k miles it had been consuming Oil, and I fully expected to see a lot more Carbon/build up... but VRP still did its job and the Engine didn't burn Oil during that Interval and seemed to perform very nicely with it... As for the Terrain's filter (which was a brilliant shock white when new and when Pleast were scraped or pressed it still revealed the white pleats underneath, until the Oil soaked back in. So yes the Filter did its job... The Oil on the Dipstick also still looks relatively "Clean" (clear/golden)... while not its original virtually translucent, hard to read on the Dipstick color.. it still wasn't anywhere near what other Oils tend to look like when it (the Oil and/or filter) is reaching a point where it either isn't suspending/retaining the Insolubles or its showing signs of age/early breakdown(?)... Suspect if the Filter (which for my Ultra Synthetic is like rated for 20,000 miles) were struggling the Oil would be showing a darker/dirtier color... But so far it's looking good Looking forward to seeing what my XG9018 looks like at 3000... Since my other vehicle (2003 Saturn ION) had always tended to show used filters to have a very twisted appearance after 3000-8000 mile service... The Ultra Synthetic with its "reinforced" mesh lining apparently should resolve that... Was also concerned how the used filters looked to "shrink" a bit after twisting... Was worried about performance issues... But Oil Analysis usually indicated that insolubles and Change Intervals were good... Just wish in the Big Picture Valvoline's Restore and Protect had been offered Years ago... to have "solved" my ION's Oil Consumption issues years ago... Then I could have spent more time/money on protecting its rusting Frame (which is what caused its "early" retirement in September... Not worth getting it Winter Ready when the Frame is like Sandstone... Just a matter of time the already large holes/cracks resulted in Catastrophic failure...
What propaganda?! I said in the video we bought it with 125k miles on it, not my doing! It’s clearly not had good maintenance. I DO 5k mile synthetic changes and will going forward on this vehicle as well.
The uploader didn’t say anything wrong. He basically said that Valvoline Restore and Protect is actually doing its job. He’s just recommending either doing a full oil change sooner, or at least change the oil filter a little often.
But that's the problem people believe the myth of, oil can go 10k 😂. Even the top tier synthetic should be changed at 5k. The 7, 8 and 10k pushed by the manufacturer, oil companies and Bob the oil guy website are contributing to engine damage.
@@fredted1611 My 2003 Saturn ION claimed I didn't need to use Synthetics... But I ignored that. Ran Full Synthetics most of its 21 years. The OLM would go between 6-8K miles (Saturn specifically said 6 months/6000 miles (Did not outline if/how I should use the OLM.). Long story short with Oil Analysis for nearly 20 years on that vehicle the "Oil" (Full Synthetic Mind You) was capable for that 6-8K mile run... Now had I actually used the Conventional for the 192K miles I put on it (with in later years Oil Consumption) I'm not sure the Oil Analysis would have been the same... Regardless, even with my GMC 2.4L Ecotec I can't reliably get/meet the OLM's 7500 miles/12 Month Interval. Basically will be shooting for 3-5K miles/6 months/50%-60% OLM unless and until Analysis says I can even attempt going more
@DirtE30 I will be honest, Fram has more miles in the last 4 decades, than Any filter,The Synthetic Endurance filters down to 20 micron and for $11 bucks at Wal-Mart it CANT be beaten. But I understand your opinion....Their cheapest filters seem junkie, however they are proven for decades.
@@DirtE30There's a lot of testing on FRAM Synthetic filters and they're decent filters. They've got cheap ones that I wouldn't touch, but they do have good filters. Get what you pay for.
The BUYER BEWARE is about the oil filter clogging issue… not the oil. It clearly works. I never said otherwise in the title or the video. See followup video.
If you have a very sludgy engine, and use restore and protect, and it cleans the engine.... Gues where it's gonna go??? Your oil filter!!! When moving from a conventional to any syn oil, for the first 3 oil changes reduce the change interval to 3k. And do a filter change at 1000 to 1500. After 4 cycles of this you should stop getting the rapid build up in your filter.
Agree 100%, see followup video!
It goes to the filter, but the oil is also designed to hold a lot of it in suspension. It does a great job of that. Definitely advisable to do a short interval if it's the first time using it and you know your engine is likely very dirty.
@@brassmule Bingo. Anything smaller than 5 microns is likely going through the filter pleats anyway, like you said the oil is formulated to hold contaminants in suspension.
This is actually good news for the product. If your engine is neglected like this, and this oil is still able to remove the neglect, thats great.
I’d really love to see what’s under the valve cover.
@@MrSamPhoenix me too but it’s a complete PITA to take off and put back on with these Volvo 5cyls. Not like a normal setup.
@ I feel your pain.
@@MrSamPhoenix Access is easy but the "valve cover" on these engines is a structural piece with the upper half of the cam journals. Gotta lock the cams in place, take off the timing belt, and something like 40 bolts in very specific sequence. Uses anaerobic sealant instead of RTV or standard gasket. I had to do that job twice on my slightly older V70.
These models have a baffle beneath the oil filler cap too, so can't even get a good look. Earlier models lacked the baffle so could see the #3 intake cams through the fill port and get an idea of how much crud was in the top end.
I just got a new to me tractor and have been running it for about 50 hours now, first oil change was around 15hrs as i was worried about the filter clogging. I should have cut the filter open to see what it looked like
Waiting for your results!
@huke2830 im going to send an oil sample out to speed diagnostix soon, I'll make a video on what it comes back with
I picked up a 92 f250 with the 5.8. It has 240k miles and I just did an oil change using this oil. My plan is to replace the cheap fram filter every 1k miles just for safe measure until the 2nd or third oil change.
Hmm… why a “cheap fram oil filter” ? Run something that’s gonna be efficient at catching all the crap that’s getting broken loose. I have 0 faith in a cheap orange Fram. We’re talking maybe $20 difference in several changes.
@DirtE30 it's cheap enough for peace of mind. If I'm going through 4 filters per oil change, would you still recommend i go with the slightly higher priced option? Keep in mind that I'm still within the 5k oil change interval, but the only thing that's getting changed every 1k miles is the filter. I plan to keep that up until the 4th or 5th oil change, which is about 16 filters later. Afterward, regular oil/filter changes
Yes, I'm doing exactly this, a mid-OCI filter change.
I'm actually doing a 3k-mile oil interval with a 1,500-mile filter change for my first use of Valvoline R&P. I'll do another filter change when I change the oil, and then assess whether one is necessary halfway through my next 3k miles.
Im on my third change with the 5w20. The first two changes were real bad. The first being a ford blend and the second being the restore and protect. I noticed i had a bad EGR valve. After changing the oil and valve im now at 1500 miles on golden oil. I drive it hard and the stuff looks like new. Those EGR valves are a plague on us all.
Interesting. I’d be curious to know what kind of filter you were using as well. I have seen nothing but problems from Motorcraft blend.
I'm just gonna stick with what I've been using with very good results. I use either Valvoline Max Life HM or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Been changing my oil every 5k. However, since it's approaching 100K, i change the oil every 3k.
I think your major premise is just saying don't run the filter to 5k if you know your engine has a bunch of build up. I don't get why people are saying that you're talking crap lol.
If i ran the restore and protect through my 08 Pontiac G6 part getting car with 265k, I'd change it at 3k to hopefully avoid the filter getting slam packed with gunk, just to help the process of the cleaning factor that this oil is known for. ESPECIALLY since if your filter is clogged, it'll just bypass and all that crud will just get thrown back in the engine which is kinda what we're trying to get rid of.
Noice anything different with the vehicle before and after?
@@Ibonic yes. I’m just demonstrating that the R&P definitely does what it claims and that one should be aware of the effects of that on oil filter life.
Engine is quieter by far already. Was also getting intermittent exhaust cam phaser position faults that have now cleared up. Notorious issue with carbon getting clogged in the inlet strainers of the VVT solenoids.
@DirtE30 I don't see why anyone would give you ish or disagree with what you're saying. You're not wrong
My 2ARFE Camry loves R&P I'm on my second oil change with it and as car care not said never go past 5k on the Toyotas with that. It's helped my consumption issues and it was cleaner on the second change so I imagine it'll get better by fourth. I may go back to the advanced once it's clean. What was the mileage and model vehicle in video ? That could definitely make a difference in how dark the oil is maybe your car is junk
Interesting how fast it works. Not a bad idea to change more often until cleaner. I think that filter did have some life left in it, lots of surface area in there.
Clogged oil filters with Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP) on older sludge-monster, carboned-up engines have been reported by others. If I were Valvoline, I would tell people that IF they have an engine with over 100,000 miles and want to use VRP, change the oil filter at 2,000 miles max, and the oil itself at 4,000 miles, just to be sure clogging doesn't affect much. At least for the first oil change with VRP. After that, 8 months and/or 8,000 miles would probably be fine.
@@softwaresignals they recommend running it for several oil changes to get the complete result.
The oil itself at 4k miles? And then after that every 8mo or 8k miles?! 😳😳🤯🤯 ... I see you like to live dangerously my friend lol i have a feeling your said 8k cuz you normally do 10k oil changes... Every mechanic will tell you that's BS and not one will agree with the 10k oil changes. The oils properties are broken down by then and lost it's effectiveness... Stop trying to save $40 at the cost of an engine. Smh. Saving pennies to spend thousands .. change your oil at 3k all the time. Unless you have something going on like this R&P obv
@softftwaresignals I use this in my 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with over 130k miles. Never a clogged or dirty filter 😂. I have always changed my oil at 5k miles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder 😀
@@owenhill-vf7ko If you can hook a vacuum gauge to your dipstick tube HOT/IDLE and see how much you have. Just curious what Ford does.
I have started using Rotella t6 diesel 5w40 in my tractor, same effect....now it actually stays golden
@@js-wq6zy hmm… interesting. Typically the black oil is due to soot from combustion in diesel engines. I’ve never had one stay golden for long. Maybe you can report back once you have a lot of hours on that oil?
When I change my oil I also set my new filter in a dirty oil pan so I do good work. Sometimes I even set them on the dusty floor. Just the way jiffy lube or Walmart trains their employees
Switched to restore and protect 2 oil changes ago. Changed 2 different cars filters at 2500 just to be sure.... There was NO extra anything in the filter - metal or sludge. It was a precaution but honestly a waste of money. If it's sludged, it's the previous maintenance regimen. It's not gonna bust up that much in 2500 miles unless it was trashed to begin with.
But I'm with ya, fram isn't the trash it's portrayed to be. Fordbossme has some decent things to say about fram.
I just started using it in my car and will change the filter around 1.5k and see what's going on in there. My car has only run M1 and Royal Purple full synthetics prior to this. Now its at 82k and I'm hoping that if anything is on the rings that this will gently cleanse it away. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep on using it or go back to RP as my engine is clean and the dipstick isn't varnished.
Those filters look fine. The fins will collapse if the media is clogged, or even close to it.
cant get that oil in Chinanada
Odd… Bet it will be available shortly. It’s pretty new. In the mean time just throw some Timmy’s down its yap… that’ll clean er up bud!
@@DirtE30 I cant wait for it to be available I have a few vehicles I want to try it out on.
@@A2J_Tim You can get a case from rockauto.
That sludge was stopping the engine leaking everywhere
You definitely need to change the filter a couple of times during your first use of restore and protect because all the garbage it breaks loose is going into the filter.
@@paulknuff1555 100% the point of the video. Thanks for watching!
So is this oil something i need to use i change my oil every 5,000 miles and it looks very vlean on dip stick car has only 10,000 miles on it 3 cylinder turbo😊
@@user-jo4en1zl7b no
Fellas, save yourself a lot of oil filter trouble and do the 505 CRO treatment FIRST. Drain the oil, preplace filter, Then do the Valvoline R and P. I did that with my Scion XA and I ran the R and P for 3000 miles, no sludge in the filter, just dark oil.
From every video I’ve seen with this oil, it just seems like it’s Valvoline synthetic with engine flush built in. Similar results to when I buy a used car and run some Liqui Moly engine flush to clean the engine. Oil always comes out super dirty. I guess if you run this all the time it will level out and your engine will surely be sparkling clean inside. 😁
Watch the motor oil geeks 2 videos about this stuff. They go over how they make the stuff and explain why you need to change it often when first using it. They changed the formula to clean more slowly because in their tests they found if it cleaned TOO quickly it does just that. Clogs the filter and causes oil starvation. Thats why they recommend using over 4 or 5 oil changes, to clean it out slowly
@@pdlegend6829 so long as the filter has a bypass there will be no oil starvation. But either way yes, change it often and the stuff does what it says!
The oil pickup tube is what you need to worry about getting clogged.
@ agreed… however most everything I’m seeing so far is small enough to make it thought the pickup but large enough to not hurt the pump. Of course that’s just what DID make it through the pickup screen right! lol
So far no issues with oil pressure. First indicator of that would be prolonged lack of oil pressure on cold starts and that hadn’t changed at all.
Change youre oil sooner and filters 3 times between oil changes to do a good job cleaning old nasty engines it worked for me
Valvoline R&P is for neglected engines. I have been using Mobil 1 since my truck (2002 Silverado) was new. OCI about 2,000 miles (once a year on average). I recently pulled the valve covers to replace the gaskets....the inside of the valve covers and rockers/springs had zero dirt/carbon..... so no R&P for me. If you do the maintenance......you don't need specialty products.
@@daveduckworth1800 agreed
More pleats on your filter isn't necessarily a good thing. The filter may have more pleats cuz it is a less effective material like paper that clogs more easily. Wix uses a more efficient synthetic media.
@@THX..1138 possibly… efficient or not, more pleats is more surface area and more storage capacity.
@@DirtE30 Yes and no... Paper is basically 2 dimensional material with a single mesh size like a fishing net. Whereas the synthetic filters are a 3 dimensional blown polymer mesh. So the mesh gets smaller deeper into the filter material. This effectively means the synthetic material has several times more filtering ability for a given area than paper.
then why put 'buyer beware' next to 'major sludge' if it's doing what is advertised. that's why people are mixing it up, ofc the sludge has to go somewhere
There’s no mixup. If you have an engine that has been neglected, beware that the sludge is going to clog up the filter quickly. Not sure what the confusion is here. This is an issue if you’re going to use the product which DOES work as advertised.
The fact that you think Fram makes a good filter says a lot about your opinion.
@@mojorizn72 I don’t… I said that particular one is decent compared to the regular Fram filter. Easy on the tone there boss.
Well, thanks…. Doing , my first VALVO R&P / VALVOLINE Filter , next week,( 110,000,mi., 2015 Journey::interestingly, first 95,000 + miles, OCI 3000/ 3 month Mopar CONVENTIONAL 5W-20/)……Background checked, & plan PUROLATOR Boss @1000 miles two time , just in Case, etc… Then Jan 2025 2007 Canyon @150,000 miles to VALVO R& P, etc…..
@@opera93 why does any manufacturer use any conventional oil? Blows my mind.
If you've got a sludgy engine I think you're better off doing a piston soak or something to get as much carbon out before you start using VRP. It cleans really well, almost too well and starts sending all that stuff out through the exhaust. It ends up being pretty rough on the cat converter.
Wow, crazy
Yeah buddy!!!😅
It's hilarious to see all these commenters claiming Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP) cleaned up their engines because that proves they were not doing timely (6 month/5,000 mile) oil changes to begin with!
That is one horribly spaced and not great looking Fram filter.
i hope that was the free filter they throw in when you buy an "oil change kit" at O'Reilly's.
Anyone who uses fram filters needs their brains checked, they are proven to be the worst brand of oil filters known, go watch a few reputable oil filter comparisons, a lot of their inner filters are made out of cardboard & check ball bypass design is atrocious.
Stop the propaganda! If you have been doing 5k mile oil changes with synthetic this does not happen 😂. We have been using Valvoline Restore and Protect with zero issues because we properly maintain our vehicles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
Fairly certain he mentioned this Engine had/has a sludge issue... So Yes while Valvoline does claim VRP won't clog the Filter during a normal Change Interval... It can't/doesn't guarantee an "abused" (dirty) engine won't show a heavily dirty filter.
I myself am coming up on 3000 miles on my 2014 2.4L GMC Terrain's first interval with VRP and when I checked my filter at 811 miles it (FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG9018) it looked similar to this one... Can't say it had any heavy deposits... But compared to another vehicle's filter (@700 miles, uses same filters as the Terrain) it still retained much of its original color (K&N red)... IMO, I wasn't expecting the K&N to be in such good shape (that engine while having used Synthetic for much of its 21 Years/192k miles it had been consuming Oil, and I fully expected to see a lot more Carbon/build up... but VRP still did its job and the Engine didn't burn Oil during that Interval and seemed to perform very nicely with it... As for the Terrain's filter (which was a brilliant shock white when new and when Pleast were scraped or pressed it still revealed the white pleats underneath, until the Oil soaked back in. So yes the Filter did its job... The Oil on the Dipstick also still looks relatively "Clean" (clear/golden)... while not its original virtually translucent, hard to read on the Dipstick color.. it still wasn't anywhere near what other Oils tend to look like when it (the Oil and/or filter) is reaching a point where it either isn't suspending/retaining the Insolubles or its showing signs of age/early breakdown(?)... Suspect if the Filter (which for my Ultra Synthetic is like rated for 20,000 miles) were struggling the Oil would be showing a darker/dirtier color... But so far it's looking good
Looking forward to seeing what my XG9018 looks like at 3000... Since my other vehicle (2003 Saturn ION) had always tended to show used filters to have a very twisted appearance after 3000-8000 mile service... The Ultra Synthetic with its "reinforced" mesh lining apparently should resolve that... Was also concerned how the used filters looked to "shrink" a bit after twisting... Was worried about performance issues... But Oil Analysis usually indicated that insolubles and Change Intervals were good...
Just wish in the Big Picture Valvoline's Restore and Protect had been offered Years ago... to have "solved" my ION's Oil Consumption issues years ago... Then I could have spent more time/money on protecting its rusting Frame (which is what caused its "early" retirement in September... Not worth getting it Winter Ready when the Frame is like Sandstone... Just a matter of time the already large holes/cracks resulted in Catastrophic failure...
What propaganda?! I said in the video we bought it with 125k miles on it, not my doing! It’s clearly not had good maintenance. I DO 5k mile synthetic changes and will going forward on this vehicle as well.
The uploader didn’t say anything wrong. He basically said that Valvoline Restore and Protect is actually doing its job. He’s just recommending either doing a full oil change sooner, or at least change the oil filter a little often.
But that's the problem people believe the myth of, oil can go 10k 😂. Even the top tier synthetic should be changed at 5k. The 7, 8 and 10k pushed by the manufacturer, oil companies and Bob the oil guy website are contributing to engine damage.
@@fredted1611 My 2003 Saturn ION claimed I didn't need to use Synthetics... But I ignored that. Ran Full Synthetics most of its 21 years. The OLM would go between 6-8K miles (Saturn specifically said 6 months/6000 miles (Did not outline if/how I should use the OLM.). Long story short with Oil Analysis for nearly 20 years on that vehicle the "Oil" (Full Synthetic Mind You) was capable for that 6-8K mile run... Now had I actually used the Conventional for the 192K miles I put on it (with in later years Oil Consumption) I'm not sure the Oil Analysis would have been the same... Regardless, even with my GMC 2.4L Ecotec I can't reliably get/meet the OLM's 7500 miles/12 Month Interval.
Basically will be shooting for 3-5K miles/6 months/50%-60% OLM unless and until Analysis says I can even attempt going more
Valvoline is Good Quality, and Fram is proven/good quality, Just stick with Fram Synthetic Endurance ##
@@kevinkinsler I tend to disagree on the Fram side.
@DirtE30 I will be honest, Fram has more miles in the last 4 decades, than Any filter,The Synthetic Endurance filters down to 20 micron and for $11 bucks at Wal-Mart it CANT be beaten.
But I understand your opinion....Their cheapest filters seem junkie, however they are proven for decades.
@@DirtE30There's a lot of testing on FRAM Synthetic filters and they're decent filters. They've got cheap ones that I wouldn't touch, but they do have good filters. Get what you pay for.
Dude, the oil works and you putting up BUYER BEWARE is pure clickbait. Do better.
The BUYER BEWARE is about the oil filter clogging issue… not the oil. It clearly works. I never said otherwise in the title or the video. See followup video.
Follow up video earns a subscription. Thank you.