✅ HOW TO SUPPORT MY CHANNEL SUBSCRIBE : ua-cam.com/users/mwawoodworks JOIN my Patreon community: patreon.com/MWAWoodworks GET project plans: bit.ly/download-project-plans ✅ TOOLS AND SUPPLIES IN THIS VIDEO: Centipede Work Holder - bit.ly/bora-centipede Plywood Router Bit Set - amzn.to/3sj7lxn Spectape Two Sided Tape - amzn.to/3wleKh4 True Position Tools Cabinet Hardware Jig - amzn.to/3g3pgDr Kreg Pocket Hole Jig - amzn.to/2UgpEGU Mag Switch - amzn.to/3sg6M7H Bessey One Handed Clamps - amzn.to/2VWftbp Speed Square - amzn.to/3xHGwEl Fast Setting Wood Glue - amzn.to/2VNIaaF Set Up Blocks - amzn.to/3GsT8U3 Undermount Drawer Slides - amzn.to/3lOkUm6 *As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Yep, that's the tried-and-true way of building base cabinetry that I learned 34 years ago. With the exception of routing a 1" 1/8 wide rabbit onto the back length of the 2 side panels, to recess in the upper /lower hang rails and the back panel. The horizontal top/bottom back members of the cabinet, we called them hang rails. Because that's where you would hang & attach the cabinet to the wall with, using screws. The back top horizontal member was also called the strong back. And "stretchers" were used in tables /chairs that stretched from 1 end of a pair of legs to the other end of a pair legs. The purpose of stretchers is to stretch over to the other like member, to brace it, keeping the legs from racking. But of course, now days curtain cabinetry anatomy seems to be used interchangeably. Great work.
Great video. I use almost the exact same method to build any cabinets. It's simple yet fast and accurate. Only think I do different is mount my stretchers on outside of 1/4" back plywood.
A great build. I used to make my cabinets with face frames, but after discovering the advantages (including a large increase in usable space) and ease in installing the drawer glides, I now edge band my plywood and build my cabinets in the Euro style -- i.e., frameless. For hundreds of years, if cabinet makers didn't want to use box joints or dovetails, face frames were almost a necessity to achieve the desired rigidity to the cabinets. But now, modern joinery techniques such as pocket screws, dual dowels, conformit screws, and dominoes -- together with extremely strong modern glues, make face frames unnecessary (other than purely for aesthetics).
With a larger shop and more machinery, the customer gets to make more decisions on things like door styles, finishes, etc. Also there are cost savings involved in building the Euro style cabinets as opposed to the face frame type, which can be passed along to the customer, making you more competitive. But again that requires more expensive equipment which also requires shop space. Ask most people if they prefer glued and screwed drawers over dove tail drawers and the answer will be dove tail. And there are machines for doing that also. Same goes for the finishing process, the nicest finishes are sprayed on, and that requires a well ventilated paint booth. Wheres the dust collection?
Frameless cabinets are great, but we DIY woodworkers don’t always end up with perfectly flat and straight plywood, so I’ve had to abandon my frameless cabinet plans a few times in favor of a face frame that allowed me to help pull that bowed plywood into a more straight position…unfortunate, but that’s how woodworking goes sometimes.
Great video. Nice looking cabinet. As it only took you 11 minutes to build, you can do a medium size kitchen on a Saturday morning. I'm so gonna build this myself.
the most important multi-tool one can ever have in the workshop is the "ol' persuader/equalizer/book o'complaints/debt collector" mine runs in the family for the past 80 years or so, i inherited it from my grandfather it even has a special feature, it holds the workshop doors open during summer. 😀😍
I'm a senior who plans to build my own cabinets for the kitchen, bathroom, and storage. I've renovated aspects of every home I've lived in. Being a carpenter's daughter, I've picked up a few lessons along the way. lol Thank you for the excellent tutorial. P.S. I've just subscribed.
3:40 Are the drawer dividers just to keep the carcas from bowing out? Or is for the face frame to have something to glue to? I've noticed some people do it, and some dont. Fix This build that didn't use them on a build I saw of his, but he didn't do a face frame at all. Bourbon Moth did a face frame, but didn't do the drawer dividers either. Just curious what their purpose is.
Excellent video. I prefer to build drawers the same way. That way if a drawer bottom ever needs to be replaced, remove the back bottom screws and slide in a new drawer bottom. Great job.
I have been building cabinets for almost 30 years. This is quality construction. Only differences for mine were, I datoed the face frames and then glued and clamped them and I covetailed all drawer boxes. nice video. Also once my doors or drawer fronts were glued up I thickness sanded them to make them almost perfect, but I realize most people do not have one.
I haven’t made a face frame cabinet in over twenty years, I build European cabinets , the toe kicks are separate from the cabinets, super easy to level the kicks and put the cabinets on top of the kicks and screw them down. The customers like them because they are easy to keep clean.
Great tips......thank you!!! Love the tip on using double sided tape to make a ledge to rest the bottom drawer front on while attaching it. Also good to see how easy the undermount drawer slides are to install!
Love that General Finishes clear. Super forgiving for novices like me, I actually don't know what it would take to end up with brush/lap marks using that stuff.
Well done. The only comment is that I would mount the drawer dividers with the pocket screws on the bottom. They don't show either way, but I feel like there is a little extra support, since any force will be down.
Great video this looks like something I could actually do. I'm totally new to cabinet making so this may seem simple - but I need to make a double cabinet with a door on one side and a set of drawers on the other. How do you attach a center divider?
Nice quality build and agreed pocket hole joinery is my favorite for many builds including cabinets. Keep up the great work inspiring others to build something awesome! 👍🏼
I recently built some base shop cabinets using the Blum undermount slides. Once you get the hang on it, it's really easy. I'll never go back to conventional side mounted slides.
Great job! Simple, elegant, and very well explained. I always enjoy your videos. Question though, how did you manage to hide the pocket holes on the toe kick ?
@@MWAWoodworks I got another question regarding the trim. So you put some trim to hide the pocket holes cool got it. But how do hide the edge ends of the trim? Or does the trim surround the sides of the cabinet?
Here's a hint for cabinet doors: You don't need mortise and tenon. Get yourself a jig like JointMate and use dowels to join those cabinet doors; nobody will notice the difference. As for the dados, you can use a router or galvanised right angle brackets and be done with it. There's no requirement to do it "the hard way"; jigs and hardware were created for a reason.
I'm hoping that someone can answer this quickly as I'm planning on building my cabinets tomorrow. Would 3 of the cabinets in this video, when all screwed together, be strong enough to hold a 1.5 inch slab of marble? This is for an outdoor BBQ bench that I'm making and it will be on caster wheels. I was thinking that due to the very heavy weight of the marble slab, I should use 3/4 inch back board and glue + pocket hole the whole thing? Any advise would be appreciated.
@@MWAWoodworks NP, I appreciate the work you put into it. I taught myself to woodwork from people like you, Jay Bates, the wood whisperer and bourbon moth. And Im all caught up on every video by all of them. So every new one is an opportunity to learn more.
When you screwed in the undermount slides, did the rear of the slide angle outward since the face frame sticks out around a 1/2" and the rear of the slide is screwed to the carcass
I noticed you added stretchers between the drawer boxes. I’ve seen some do this and others not do it. I was just curious to the reasoning behind it? Thanks
I appreciate your videos, gotta be honest the 'like' 10 seconds in is usually just because I spotted the Cardinals Cap, but it gets earned as the video plays. :)
Great video, thanks! May I ask, if that cabinet was going to butt up against a wall on the left and you had an overhanging face frame on the left to scribe in for a good fit, how would you deal with the gap under the toe kick where the side of the cabinet is against the wall? Would you just scribe it in tight as possible so there was basically no gap?
These cabinets I built are actually going to butt up against a wall. Yes I will scribe the overhanging face frame and the toe kick will be covered by a piece of base moulding which will also be scribed on the end
Hello ! he is very interested in the way you work and I like it, it is very close to mine and I find myself. can you tell me how thick is the plywood with which you work the walls and the bottom of the cabinet, thank you.
I've been watching your videos for a while and really enjoy your content and presentation. As I have taken on more projects, I have run into the same technical question a few times. In this video, at 9:49, you show a drawer slide being fastened into a cabinet where the end overlaps onto the face frame. Though it does not look like it, I assume this means the inside edge of your face frame is flush with the inside face of the cabinet or you included a spacer, but just did not include that detail in this video. This gets back to one basic design characteristic I have never seen anyone address - how much and where should the face frame overhang the sides of the cabinet. It looks like your face frame is about 1.5", which means you have about 3/4" to overhang inside, outside or some to both. I have assumed that there should be a small overhang on the outside to aid with installation. Is that how you do it?
What a great video and build! I really like how the cabinet came out, looks fantastic. Thank you for posting, I like your methods for building the cabinet and the drawers! Great Stuff!!
At minute 11:03 when you say that you use a scrap piece of plywood to match the height in order install the the drawer is it really the same height as the stretcher? In the video it seems slightly higher.
Almost lost me at “easy peezy lemon squeezy.”😂 This is OUTSTANDING. Really appreciate the illustration of alternate methods for the monetarily challenged!
I have a 12 tooth 5.5" circular saw, would I be able to do this type of project? I do not have space or access to a large workspace, or even a small work space or storage for a table saw of any size.
If you have a way to cut perfectly straight and square cuts, sure. You also have to get blade for your saw that is meant for fine cuts, much higher tooth count. A 12 tooth blade is made for rough construction and demolition and will tear up plywood.
It depends on how you're installing them. If you're doing a run of 3 or more cabinets tied together then it's best to build a separate base and just level the base. But for one one cabinet or two cabinets with an appliance in the middle it makes no difference the leveling process is the same.
@@MWAWoodworks explanation of different grades of cabinet plywood and when/why you might choose each one, then how you'd finish it. I hope that's not too much to ask, could probably almost be its own video. I have a built in bookshelf project with cabinets as the base coming up and several of your videos have been inspiration for my approach. Cheers.
I see a lot of people leave out the back panel but I don’t really understand why. If you put the back panel in first, it’s easier and it gives a positive stop for the back straps to butt up against so you don’t need a clamp to hold them in place.
Great video, i rewatched several parts to get a good look before i start the build. I was wondering, with the face frame on and it being wider than the cabinet itself. How would you mount a second cabinet next to it? A piece of ply between 2 cabinets or something else?
@@MWAWoodworks That makes sense! I'm used to euro style cabinets but the visible line between 2 cabinets and then the double width that is not maintained at the outer edges of the entire piece makes it feel like ikea stuff. Most carpenters use the same style "furniture boards" as well instead of plywood.
Really nice cabinet build. Lots of good ideas to help me when I build the cabinets in my shop and I'm wanting to do the shaker style doors and drawers on mine as well
Can I ask a dumb question.... What is the need & purpose of having horizontal "drawer separators"? Seems to me a spanner at the top is all you need. Nothing is attached to the drawer separators, correct? And with the face frame attached, are the drawer separators a bit of overkill?
How about one with inset drawers where the front panels of the drawers are the front of the box (same board) and with blind dove tail, and reveal around the front panel? I'd love to see someone build that because that's what I'm attempting to do. very hard.
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Kreg Pocket Hole Jig - amzn.to/2UgpEGU
Mag Switch - amzn.to/3sg6M7H
Bessey One Handed Clamps - amzn.to/2VWftbp
Speed Square - amzn.to/3xHGwEl
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Yep, that's the tried-and-true way of building base cabinetry that I learned 34 years ago. With the exception of routing a 1" 1/8 wide rabbit onto the back length of the 2 side panels, to recess in the upper /lower hang rails and the back panel. The horizontal top/bottom back members of the cabinet, we called them hang rails. Because that's where you would hang & attach the cabinet to the wall with, using screws. The back top horizontal member was also called the strong back. And "stretchers" were used in tables /chairs that stretched from 1 end of a pair of legs to the other end of a pair legs. The purpose of stretchers is to stretch over to the other like member, to brace it, keeping the legs from racking. But of course, now days curtain cabinetry anatomy seems to be used interchangeably. Great work.
One of the best and most easy to follow cabinet builds I have seen. I definitely picked up some pointers. Thanks for sharing the info. Great video.
Great video. I use almost the exact same method to build any cabinets.
It's simple yet fast and accurate. Only think I do different is mount my stretchers on outside of 1/4" back plywood.
You sir are a great craftsman. I was watching your video and my wife said it was if I had just discover fire!!!
Thank you
😂😂😂 thanks!
Killer instructions on this one, Matt!
You are WAY TOO GOOD! I cannot do this.
Ok, now I need a whole ebinistery set and a garage.. and a house... :`D
Tell me about it 😂
I can listen to your instructions all day! Nice work.
Thanks Marcos! I'll take it 😆
That was a number of steps, but it makes it look super possible with a realistic amount of tools, rather than a FULL woodworking shop, thanks!
A great build. I used to make my cabinets with face frames, but after discovering the advantages (including a large increase in usable space) and ease in installing the drawer glides, I now edge band my plywood and build my cabinets in the Euro style -- i.e., frameless. For hundreds of years, if cabinet makers didn't want to use box joints or dovetails, face frames were almost a necessity to achieve the desired rigidity to the cabinets. But now, modern joinery techniques such as pocket screws, dual dowels, conformit screws, and dominoes -- together with extremely strong modern glues, make face frames unnecessary (other than purely for aesthetics).
With a larger shop and more machinery, the customer gets to make more decisions on things like door styles, finishes, etc.
Also there are cost savings involved in building the Euro style cabinets as opposed to the face frame type, which can be passed along to the customer, making you more competitive.
But again that requires more expensive equipment which also requires shop space.
Ask most people if they prefer glued and screwed drawers over dove tail drawers and the answer will be dove tail.
And there are machines for doing that also.
Same goes for the finishing process, the nicest finishes are sprayed on, and that requires a well ventilated paint booth.
Wheres the dust collection?
Frameless cabinets are great, but we DIY woodworkers don’t always end up with perfectly flat and straight plywood, so I’ve had to abandon my frameless cabinet plans a few times in favor of a face frame that allowed me to help pull that bowed plywood into a more straight position…unfortunate, but that’s how woodworking goes sometimes.
I always build framless cabinets and never have much of an issue thus far. Definitely quicker and easier.
Great video. Nice looking cabinet. As it only took you 11 minutes to build, you can do a medium size kitchen on a Saturday morning. I'm so gonna build this myself.
Ha yes, just 11 minutes 😂😂😂
@@MWAWoodworksso, how long did it take you, a pro, to make these?
this video is straightforward. I will try those under-mount slides. They are intimidating. Pricey but I will learn
Thanks 🇯🇲
Very nice craftsmanship
You made it look so easy! Great video!
Great work. Wish you would sell these as kits
the most important multi-tool one can ever have in the workshop is the "ol' persuader/equalizer/book o'complaints/debt collector" mine runs in the family for the past 80 years or so, i inherited it from my grandfather it even has a special feature, it holds the workshop doors open during summer. 😀😍
That's beautiful work, you made it look very easy
Fantastic work. Great job sir.
I really like the way you provide tips for the people that don't have a workshop full of tools. Hitting that subscribe button.
I'm glad that you liked it, brother 👍
I have a whole kitchen cabinet project to do. Hope it goes well. Thanks for the video
I'm a senior who plans to build my own cabinets for the kitchen, bathroom, and storage. I've renovated aspects of every home I've lived in. Being a carpenter's daughter, I've picked up a few lessons along the way. lol Thank you for the excellent tutorial.
P.S. I've just subscribed.
Excellent tutorial. I like the fast pace. Good information too. Thanks
Excellent work and information! Thank you
3:40
Are the drawer dividers just to keep the carcas from bowing out? Or is for the face frame to have something to glue to?
I've noticed some people do it, and some dont.
Fix This build that didn't use them on a build I saw of his, but he didn't do a face frame at all.
Bourbon Moth did a face frame, but didn't do the drawer dividers either.
Just curious what their purpose is.
Matt, your cabinet build videos are awesome! These are among the best out there on the internet.
Thanks so much! 😊
Excellent video. I prefer to build drawers the same way. That way if a drawer bottom ever needs to be replaced, remove the back bottom screws and slide in a new drawer bottom. Great job.
Yup
Can’t wait for that painting process video!
Thanks!
I have been building cabinets for almost 30 years. This is quality construction. Only differences for mine were, I datoed the face frames and then glued and clamped them and I covetailed all drawer boxes. nice video. Also once my doors or drawer fronts were glued up I thickness sanded them to make them almost perfect, but I realize most people do not have one.
All good stuff
Great demonstration and and information………
You have great videos, thank you
I haven’t made a face frame cabinet in over twenty years, I build European cabinets , the toe kicks are separate from the cabinets, super easy to level the kicks and put the cabinets on top of the kicks and screw them down. The customers like them because they are easy to keep clean.
Great tips......thank you!!! Love the tip on using double sided tape to make a ledge to rest the bottom drawer front on while attaching it. Also good to see how easy the undermount drawer slides are to install!
Thanks Lori!
I’m watching this because all of your other videos on building cabinets were some of the best I’ve ever seen on UA-cam, so keep them coming
Wow! Thanks for such high praise 😊
Love that General Finishes clear. Super forgiving for novices like me, I actually don't know what it would take to end up with brush/lap marks using that stuff.
Really enjoyed watching those tips like spacing for drawers etc. Very helpful
As always a perfect Job, well done Matt👍
Thank you very much!
Great video. Much appreciate it.
Well done. The only comment is that I would mount the drawer dividers with the pocket screws on the bottom. They don't show either way, but I feel like there is a little extra support, since any force will be down.
Good idea
they are really nice, great job
Great video this looks like something I could actually do. I'm totally new to cabinet making so this may seem simple - but I need to make a double cabinet with a door on one side and a set of drawers on the other. How do you attach a center divider?
Looks great good tips and technique, thx
What would you of done differently for an inset drawer?
I am trying to see what tool you added to your festool track saw guides to square the cut instead of making multiple measurement lines?
Great video. Can't wait to see the video about how you finished the cabinets.
Fantastic work, Matt! Beautiful cabinet! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome! Thanks brother!
Amazing content, i love that narrative on your videos thumbs up 👍
Thank you! 😊
Nice quality build and agreed pocket hole joinery is my favorite for many builds including cabinets. Keep up the great work inspiring others to build something awesome! 👍🏼
Thanks a bunch!
"Awesome work kind Sir" Gunna do what you did. Thank you.
Sound like a plan! 👌
I recently built some base shop cabinets using the Blum undermount slides. Once you get the hang on it, it's really easy. I'll never go back to conventional side mounted slides.
Great job! Simple, elegant, and very well explained. I always enjoy your videos. Question though, how did you manage to hide the pocket holes on the toe kick ?
Good question! The toe kick will have a piece of base trim over it when I install the cabinets. That will hide the pocket holes.
Okay Sir👍
@@MWAWoodworks I got another question regarding the trim. So you put some trim to hide the pocket holes cool got it. But how do hide the edge ends of the trim? Or does the trim surround the sides of the cabinet?
looks great what a job
What do you guys know about number of leases that have been returned, where are they stored and do they show in the financials?
I built my entire kitchen and 2 baths with no dados, just glue & nailed, 10years, no issues.
it always fascinates me how professionals insist on making everything last at least 100 years.
MDF, glue, couple screws, good to go.
Or pocket holes 😊
I didnt even use wood glue for my kitchen wall cabinets. Just scotch tape. Still good even after 3 weeks
@@stevenmorris2293 pocket holes on face frames.
I just spit on the edges. 88 years later still good as new.
I would agree with the title if I owned table and band saws ;). Thanks for the content. Cheers from OZ
Fair enough 🤣
Here's a hint for cabinet doors: You don't need mortise and tenon. Get yourself a jig like JointMate and use dowels to join those cabinet doors; nobody will notice the difference. As for the dados, you can use a router or galvanised right angle brackets and be done with it. There's no requirement to do it "the hard way"; jigs and hardware were created for a reason.
Very nice process discussion. Became a subscriber!
Welcome aboard!
Great job explaining everything thank you very much
You're very welcome 😁
Great video. I am about to build a 10' tall pantry cabinet and will be following your method. Thank you for the edd-u-mee-cashun 😁
Great video for easy cabinet maker
I'm hoping that someone can answer this quickly as I'm planning on building my cabinets tomorrow. Would 3 of the cabinets in this video, when all screwed together, be strong enough to hold a 1.5 inch slab of marble? This is for an outdoor BBQ bench that I'm making and it will be on caster wheels. I was thinking that due to the very heavy weight of the marble slab, I should use 3/4 inch back board and glue + pocket hole the whole thing? Any advise would be appreciated.
Great video very informative thanks for sharing
Nice, another good video man. Keep at it!
Thanks Matthew I appreciate your support!
Agreed 💯👍🏼
@@MWAWoodworks NP, I appreciate the work you put into it. I taught myself to woodwork from people like you, Jay Bates, the wood whisperer and bourbon moth. And Im all caught up on every video by all of them. So every new one is an opportunity to learn more.
Wow that's good company you put me in 😊 I'm glad to be on your play list!
When you screwed in the undermount slides, did the rear of the slide angle outward since the face frame sticks out around a 1/2" and the rear of the slide is screwed to the carcass
No for this cabinet I made the inside face of the face frame flush with the cabinet sides in order to make the install easier.
I noticed you added stretchers between the drawer boxes. I’ve seen some do this and others not do it. I was just curious to the reasoning behind it? Thanks
Prevents the front edges of the cabinet from bowing
I appreciate your videos, gotta be honest the 'like' 10 seconds in is usually just because I spotted the Cardinals Cap, but it gets earned as the video plays. :)
What was the rough cost estimate to build your own?
Very nice…. But still a lot of work. How many hours did you need in total?
Love your foldable workbench.what is it?
A Centipede. I think the link is in the description
@@MWAWoodworks thanks man
Great video, thanks! May I ask, if that cabinet was going to butt up against a wall on the left and you had an overhanging face frame on the left to scribe in for a good fit, how would you deal with the gap under the toe kick where the side of the cabinet is against the wall? Would you just scribe it in tight as possible so there was basically no gap?
These cabinets I built are actually going to butt up against a wall. Yes I will scribe the overhanging face frame and the toe kick will be covered by a piece of base moulding which will also be scribed on the end
@@MWAWoodworks much appreciated!
What kind of plywood did you use?
Great Video
wow, efficient. Great tips and tricks here. Love the no bullcrap video!
This video was awesome. it really made me feel like it was something I could do
Wow that's awesome! Thanks for watching!
Hello ! he is very interested in the way you work and I like it, it is very close to mine and I find myself. can you tell me how thick is the plywood with which you work the walls and the bottom of the cabinet, thank you.
I've been watching your videos for a while and really enjoy your content and presentation. As I have taken on more projects, I have run into the same technical question a few times. In this video, at 9:49, you show a drawer slide being fastened into a cabinet where the end overlaps onto the face frame. Though it does not look like it, I assume this means the inside edge of your face frame is flush with the inside face of the cabinet or you included a spacer, but just did not include that detail in this video. This gets back to one basic design characteristic I have never seen anyone address - how much and where should the face frame overhang the sides of the cabinet. It looks like your face frame is about 1.5", which means you have about 3/4" to overhang inside, outside or some to both. I have assumed that there should be a small overhang on the outside to aid with installation. Is that how you do it?
Agreed for most cases. At 9:41 you can see that the face frame is flush with the inside of the cabinet.
What a great video and build! I really like how the cabinet came out, looks fantastic. Thank you for posting, I like your methods for building the cabinet and the drawers! Great Stuff!!
Thank you!
At minute 11:03 when you say that you use a scrap piece of plywood to match the height in order install the the drawer is it really the same height as the stretcher? In the video it seems slightly higher.
It's 1/4" higher than the stretcher, which accounts for the 1/4" overhang of the face frame.
Can you fit inbuilt ovens, dishwashers and/or microwaves in any of your cabinets??
For your face frames, did you use the micro insert for drilling your pocket holes or the standard one with the standard drill bit?
Is cost the only reason to not use the same dimension on the drawer bottom?
Almost lost me at “easy peezy lemon squeezy.”😂 This is OUTSTANDING. Really appreciate the illustration of alternate methods for the monetarily challenged!
Thank you! Cheers!
No 1/4” groove in the bottom (floor) panel to accommodate the back panel? What keeps the back panel in place down there?
its nailed into place
I have a 12 tooth 5.5" circular saw, would I be able to do this type of project? I do not have space or access to a large workspace, or even a small work space or storage for a table saw of any size.
If you have a way to cut perfectly straight and square cuts, sure. You also have to get blade for your saw that is meant for fine cuts, much higher tooth count. A 12 tooth blade is made for rough construction and demolition and will tear up plywood.
@@MWAWoodworks All the blades I see with more teeth are for 7.5" or greater saws. Should I be looking to invest in a new saw and get rid of this one?
I don't everything that is available honestly but you for sure need a crosscut or fine cut blade to use on plywood
So the toe kick is integrated. That makes it much harder to level the cabinets?
It depends on how you're installing them. If you're doing a run of 3 or more cabinets tied together then it's best to build a separate base and just level the base. But for one one cabinet or two cabinets with an appliance in the middle it makes no difference the leveling process is the same.
Hi mate.
That is nice 👏
How many hours to build this and how much did the material cost?
probably $100 in plywood and 3 months in Sunday afternoons to build. ;)
What is the depth or dados? For the bottom and back piece.
Halfway
Great stuff as always. When you film the painting video can you also talk about material selection trade space? Thanks!
Can you say more about that? I get the material selection but what do you mean by trade space?
@@MWAWoodworks explanation of different grades of cabinet plywood and when/why you might choose each one, then how you'd finish it. I hope that's not too much to ask, could probably almost be its own video. I have a built in bookshelf project with cabinets as the base coming up and several of your videos have been inspiration for my approach. Cheers.
great video
Well done
Can you please tell me the name of the foam type used for tracksaw ? Thank youu
It's just Owens Corning Ridgid Foam Board Insulation
What was the cost for this cabinet?
Im curious to know, why did the face frame extend pass the edge of the cabinet frame?
This is normal practice for cabinet building
I see a lot of people leave out the back panel but I don’t really understand why. If you put the back panel in first, it’s easier and it gives a positive stop for the back straps to butt up against so you don’t need a clamp to hold them in place.
Having the rights tools is amazing
Great video, i rewatched several parts to get a good look before i start the build.
I was wondering, with the face frame on and it being wider than the cabinet itself. How would you mount a second cabinet next to it? A piece of ply between 2 cabinets or something else?
In that case I would combine the two cabinets and then make a face frame to cover both and add it once the cabinets are installed
@@MWAWoodworks That makes sense! I'm used to euro style cabinets but the visible line between 2 cabinets and then the double width that is not maintained at the outer edges of the entire piece makes it feel like ikea stuff. Most carpenters use the same style "furniture boards" as well instead of plywood.
Really nice cabinet build. Lots of good ideas to help me when I build the cabinets in my shop and I'm wanting to do the shaker style doors and drawers on mine as well
Awesome! Glad I could help 👍
Can I ask a dumb question.... What is the need & purpose of having horizontal "drawer separators"? Seems to me a spanner at the top is all you need. Nothing is attached to the drawer separators, correct? And with the face frame attached, are the drawer separators a bit of overkill?
Really nice build and video, Matt! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you brother! Always good to hear from you 😊
How about one with inset drawers where the front panels of the drawers are the front of the box (same board) and with blind dove tail, and reveal around the front panel? I'd love to see someone build that because that's what I'm attempting to do. very hard.
About how much does a cabinet of this size cost you per each one.