Hi Tom, Thank for the video. I'm a newbie and will build my first cabinet for own kitchen. I saw a video that they made the depth of the cabinets to 24" and yours is 23'-5/8". I already made my cutlist to 24". Should i change it 23'-5/8"? Thanks
Question: I noticed that your screws were drilled below the surface of the plywood opposed to being flushed, any issues with the screws being countersunk?
Thank you Sledge for sharing your knowledge with us. What are your thoughts on leveling legs or feet vs the 4 inch kick plates that the cabinet will sit on?
Excellent tutorial, as ever. Alas, I'm left feeling the need to win multiple lotteries in order to find the space, not to mention the eye-watering cost of all those expensive, one-trick ponies!
whomade..., of course, you could also use pro cabinet tools like Felder, Martin, SCM, Altendorf, etc., but you'd have to fork up $20-to-40K for just to start, to say nothing of all the other tooling you'd need such as an edgebander, Blum Mini Press or line borer, etc. It's easy to see why why cabinets are not cheap -- even DIY ones. Just pricing the cost of a sheet of any quality hardwood plywood (never mind genuine Baltic birch) these days is eye-watering. The Festool isn't cheap, either, but it does allow one to make professional grade cabinets without the costs of a full pro cabinet shop setup -- and without having to wire your shop or garage for 3-phase power to run those beasts.
Nice that this cabinet was built to the Blum System 32 standard. It would be good to see more videos about the benefits of System 32, as there seem to be very few out there.
Indeed! There is an excellent 330p. textbook explaining in depth the history and use of the "System 32" for efficient cabinet making titled "True 32 Flow Manufacturing" by B. Buckley. It free for Amazon Kindle Unlimited subscribers and under $10 for those who are not.
Sedge, what is the blue bucket on wheels with the post for, in the shop? Thanks for posting. Just got a domino joiner.. Awesome tool and totally worth the price.
Well done as usual. One suggestion, mark, mark, mark, and double check your marks and grain direction before you start your batches (Don't ask me how i know that 🤪). I use gauge blocks instead of the Festool parallel edge stops, to set up my offsets for my groves, to align my LR32 rail for punching my 5mm holes or the grove on the back. You might have missed using various domino combinations as gauge blocks for routers depth settings. Love that trick.
Great video covering not only all aspects of the build, but the reasoning behind the method. I cannot say that anything new was covered here per se, but you have integrated the 32mm system into the cabinet's DNA. The only thing you didn't address is fasteners on the exposed side of the base. I assume finish nais would come into play in lieu of the screws. Thanks Sedge. Wicked pissah!
Any reason not to use a grooved nailer to capture the top of the backs? I use a dado stack and do it at the same time as the rest of the carcass so it doesn’t add any time. I also use pocket screws in that back top nailer so it can be removed when cabinet is fitted in place.
Great vid Sedge, really clicked for me. One quick question. This is just a small thing, but wouldn’t it be more efficient to edge band the full length of plywood prior to cross-cutting to individual components?
On Tight/Loose settings for the dominos - completely agree you want Tight-Tight for the fronts. But for the middle and rears I prefer to have Tight for one side (typically edge) and Loose for the other (typically face), not Loose-Loose. With Loose-Loose the domino can get cockeyed in the mortises.
@@sedgetool as a new woodworker it looked like I needed metric tools to work in metric, but the more I watch these videos it seems the majority of what I’ll be doing can be addressed by measuring at the bit or blade. Thanks for all the videos, I have learned a ton.
I go by the rule if your material off of the saw is square and all the right length than all should end up square ... I do check every now and then if something doesn't seem correct ...it usually is a piece of the cabinet that ended up too short...... I check cabinet parts for square off of my saws ....
How do you do your doors? How do you finish your cabinets? Where can we see a finished set of cabinets? Is it really worth so much time, money and tools to make these cabinets? Do they look professionally finished at the end or diy?
I spray finish before I assemble...but with this cabinet ,because I use no glue ,you can take a part and finish..I can add a variety of different doors ..check out my channel for all the door videos..
Off topic question: about a year ago, you did two very helpful videos about the Shaper Origin, and I had the impression there were more on the way... is that the case?
You put the base between the sides, and mention sheer forces on the dominoes. If we look at the Festool plans and photos for a DiY Sysport they put sides on top of the base which then has no sheer forces on the dominoes. Who's correct and why?
I have always seen and have been taught to place the tops and bottoms between the sides of cabinets...I have often wondered why the plans that come with the Sys AZ drawers have that orientation. I believe it is to attach casters..That is the only thing I can think of.
I’m learning how to build my very first cabinet. I’m wondering why you need dominos AND screws? I thought dominos were used in place of screws. Isn’t this overdoing it?
Bruh…his technique works with whatever you have. Festool may be out of reach for most viewers, but use what you have available. Use table saw to rip. Use a $20 iron to edge band. Use pocket holes or clamps and glue with screws in lieu of a domino. I’m jealous of his tools too, but grateful to learn a technique that he has clearly honed over his career.
You can achieve the exact same outcome with a clothes iron and a pressure roller. If you don't want to do edge banding, you can fill with wood filler, then sand and paint the edge.
As a custom cabinet maker who works with two huge purveyors of all stone I totally disagree! I make the cabinets and dado or rabbiting in the back is unnecessary; completely ! My stone supplier templates and uses 5/8” Ply on top and not once is 15 yrs has anyone called back and stated their counter tops or cabinets failed because it can not breathe? These are systems somewhere along the line became incorporated into the box making portions of cabinets ! Why? It’s not for strength ! I never use any 1/4” material! It’s all 3/4” boxes and 1/2” backs sometimes dominoes are used if I think I need them for racking strength and I reinforce my cope & stick / stub tenon doors with #4 or 5 domino ? Drawers are sometimes subbed out sometimes not? Breathing has nothing to do with a stone top! Support yes! Oxygen? No! All sounds great just not Cabinet-ly correct !
Why do you put in removable backs. Unless it's a sink unit it's a waste of effort, just put an 18mm thick back and dowel it it will make a much stronger and robust unit that does not require grooves to be cut. In Europe all our commercial units are CNC cut with all the dowel holes predrilled. The cost of plywood here would make units far more expensive than double faced chipboard or MDF. Which only requires edgebanding to finish it.
It's a base unit not a piece of art furniture. Removable back panel. Not a chance with worktop fitted. Over engineered by a pedantic and expensive tool expert.
@@JonDunnmusician so because i am from Europe I am now arrogant? Surely there are arrogant people where ever they are from? I think the message needs rewording a bit to ask a question rather than a statement If painting though is it not better to use MDF? In the uk we seem to have construction plywood and then birch ply. The first type seems to vary some what in thickness and has voids. Do you have same in states and use birch plywood for these cabinets?
Watching is interesting, but you’ve got tool sets that are so far out of reach for most intermediate woodworkers that the practicality factor is zero. I’m sure your market is the highest end hobbyist. Thanks anyway.
I don't see the point in including inches and all that imperial, stick with meters and expect a small portion of the world to learn to use metric and adapt.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video on base cabinet build.
Glad you liked it!
Will you be building upper and lower frameless corner cabinets sometime? Great content sedge!
not in the near future
Best base cabinet build tutorial. Thank you, Sedge.
Wow, thanks!
Great tutorial as usual. Thank you for sharing your knowledge ❤
You are so welcome!
Hi Tom, Thank for the video. I'm a newbie and will build my first cabinet for own kitchen. I saw a video that they made the depth of the cabinets to 24" and yours is 23'-5/8". I already made my cutlist to 24". Should i change it 23'-5/8"? Thanks
you can build them any depth....24"works
GREAT VIDEO! Do the drawers and doors next!
Thanks for the idea!
Sedge ❤ your videos your smile 😁... So would you use the same technique to build a small Bathroom vanity ❓
Yes!
Excellent content and instructions , thanks for sharing this type of information
Wicked cool ...Many thanks !!!
Question: I noticed that your screws were drilled below the surface of the plywood opposed to being flushed, any issues with the screws being countersunk?
Excellent tutorial .
Many thanks!
Hi Sedge, another great video
Steve
Glad you enjoyed it
@@sedgetool Hi Sedge your videos are always enjoyable! I am based in Leeds UK so by and large the principals of cabinet making are the same
Steve
Of all the best videos of your channel, this is the best!
Wow, thanks!
Hi Sedge,
What is the limit stop you use to set up for your known outside cuts to sheet goods?
What is it 5 mm or so?
6mm
Thank you from Downunder
Cheers
@@sedgetool Awesome video! what edge banding did you use here?
Hey sedge! How are you covering up the screw holes on visible surfaces, and where can I find those screws?
ua-cam.com/video/IAB_iqaoew0/v-deo.html
@@sedgetool thank you! What if you had mid panel horizontal supports for a super tall cabinet.
Also do you know of any good self countersinking cabinet screws available at a big box store like Lowe’s or Home Depot?
Thank you Sledge for sharing your knowledge with us. What are your thoughts on leveling legs or feet vs the 4 inch kick plates that the cabinet will sit on?
ua-cam.com/video/GbXneM90d7c/v-deo.html
Excellent tutorial, as ever. Alas, I'm left feeling the need to win multiple lotteries in order to find the space, not to mention the eye-watering cost of all those expensive, one-trick ponies!
You can do it!
whomade..., of course, you could also use pro cabinet tools like Felder, Martin, SCM, Altendorf, etc., but you'd have to fork up $20-to-40K for just to start, to say nothing of all the other tooling you'd need such as an edgebander, Blum Mini Press or line borer, etc. It's easy to see why why cabinets are not cheap -- even DIY ones. Just pricing the cost of a sheet of any quality hardwood plywood (never mind genuine Baltic birch) these days is eye-watering. The Festool isn't cheap, either, but it does allow one to make professional grade cabinets without the costs of a full pro cabinet shop setup -- and without having to wire your shop or garage for 3-phase power to run those beasts.
Great Video Sedge . Thanks and Thumbs up .
Thanks 👍
I love that shirt!
me too
Nice that this cabinet was built to the Blum System 32 standard. It would be good to see more videos about the benefits of System 32, as there seem to be very few out there.
working on it !!!
Looking forward to seeing them!
Indeed! There is an excellent 330p. textbook explaining in depth the history and use of the "System 32" for efficient cabinet making titled "True 32 Flow Manufacturing" by B. Buckley. It free for Amazon Kindle Unlimited subscribers and under $10 for those who are not.
Sedge, what is the blue bucket on wheels with the post for, in the shop? Thanks for posting. Just got a domino joiner.. Awesome tool and totally worth the price.
It is a camera stand to hold phones and video cameras...... very stable and adjustable...got the idea from Jay Bates....
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Well done as usual. One suggestion, mark, mark, mark, and double check your marks and grain direction before you start your batches (Don't ask me how i know that 🤪). I use gauge blocks instead of the Festool parallel edge stops, to set up my offsets for my groves, to align my LR32 rail for punching my 5mm holes or the grove on the back. You might have missed using various domino combinations as gauge blocks for routers depth settings. Love that trick.
Good tip!
Really good tip!
Great video covering not only all aspects of the build, but the reasoning behind the method. I cannot say that anything new was covered here per se, but you have integrated the 32mm system into the cabinet's DNA. The only thing you didn't address is fasteners on the exposed side of the base. I assume finish nais would come into play in lieu of the screws. Thanks Sedge. Wicked pissah!
Thanks.....I have a video for finishing an end cabinet..... Hope this helps !!!
ua-cam.com/video/IAB_iqaoew0/v-deo.html
Comprehensive tutorial. Like others, I use a 1/2-inch back. Useful for double bases to anchor ‘mid-back’ shelf supports.
cool !!
Great video sedge! Been waiting for this one for awhile! Thank you!
u bet
Any reason not to use a grooved nailer to capture the top of the backs? I use a dado stack and do it at the same time as the rest of the carcass so it doesn’t add any time. I also use pocket screws in that back top nailer so it can be removed when cabinet is fitted in place.
OK
Great video sedge, thanks for doing the base cabinet! Do you have to do anything different if you are going drawers instead of doors?
Yes .. I would make the cabinet narrower ...or.....depending on the width of your drawers !!!
Great vid Sedge, really clicked for me. One quick question. This is just a small thing, but wouldn’t it be more efficient to edge band the full length of plywood prior to cross-cutting to individual components?
I stay away with this method because some of those lengths will not be used and it seems a waste.... I have always cut to length and then banded......
On Tight/Loose settings for the dominos - completely agree you want Tight-Tight for the fronts. But for the middle and rears I prefer to have Tight for one side (typically edge) and Loose for the other (typically face), not Loose-Loose. With Loose-Loose the domino can get cockeyed in the mortises.
Good point !!!
What are you using to trim the edge banding?
Festool MFK700
Thanks for the video Sedge. I appreciate how you went into the dimensions as they provide a good start in learning cabinet building.
Glad it was helpful!
In my new shop I will make all my shop cabinets just like your lower cabinet.
cool !!!
Great build video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for all your great videos. So helpful.
You are so welcome!
Awesome instructional video! Thanks 😎👍
Glad it was helpful!
Noticed you did not pilot those screws first, would that have helped reduce some split wood? Also how does one easily get metric festool in USA?
a lot of Festool accessories are offered in both ... my tools are just older...
@@sedgetool as a new woodworker it looked like I needed metric tools to work in metric, but the more I watch these videos it seems the majority of what I’ll be doing can be addressed by measuring at the bit or blade. Thanks for all the videos, I have learned a ton.
Thanks for the great video! I might have missed it, but did you end using glue with the dominoes or just left it at dry fitting and then using screws.
I do Not... i will take it apart and spray a finish... lays down better...Glue does not stick to finish..... I have never had a failure
Down the road from you in Brownsburg. Envious of your shop, especially the Systainer wall. What are the dimensions of your shop?
The dimensions are a typical 3 saw garage !!!
You don’t check for square at any time?
I go by the rule if your material off of the saw is square and all the right length than all should end up square ... I do check every now and then if something doesn't seem correct ...it usually is a piece of the cabinet that ended up too short...... I check cabinet parts for square off of my saws ....
How do you do your doors? How do you finish your cabinets? Where can we see a finished set of cabinets? Is it really worth so much time, money and tools to make these cabinets? Do they look professionally finished at the end or diy?
I spray finish before I assemble...but with this cabinet ,because I use no glue ,you can take a part and finish..I can add a variety of different doors ..check out my channel for all the door videos..
Man I really need a track saw but they don't sell them in Ghana.
oh man !!!
i saw the plywood crack when you drove that screw in, now I'm not gonna be able to sleep at night
Good eyes ....
Very helpful video. Do you glue the dominos into the cabinet?
I do Not... i will take it apart and spray a finish... lays down better...Glue does not stick to finish..... I have never had a failure
If you added a drawer to the cabinet would you add a spreader between the door and drawer, and if you did would you add it on an increment of 32.
I would add a spreader and not punch holes all the way !!!
Sorry! ....But you should have " Pre-Drill " before screwing ( on 29:40 sec )....The plywood split without addressing the mistake!.....Cheers
ok
Off topic question: about a year ago, you did two very helpful videos about the Shaper Origin, and I had the impression there were more on the way... is that the case?
Yes, absolutely !!!!!!!!!
No glue with the dominos?
I do Not... I will take it apart and spray a finish... lays down better...Glue does not stick to finish..... I have never had a failure
No glue?
nope
@@sedgetool Might as well not use it, likely states are going to ban it anyway... =)
Where is the frameless upper cabinet video?
ua-cam.com/video/IeFR72lKLlg/v-deo.html
Talking about "skinning a cat" - Haiti 🇭🇹🇫🇷
😂 Latest joke these parts.😂😂
wow
No difference, it is a Dado or housing joint. I also love the loose use of the word perfect!
Good to know!
Wished I had $100,000 in fes tools. You must work for them and get a nice discount. 😀
Hmmmmmmmm.....
You put the base between the sides, and mention sheer forces on the dominoes. If we look at the Festool plans and photos for a DiY Sysport they put sides on top of the base which then has no sheer forces on the dominoes. Who's correct and why?
I have always seen and have been taught to place the tops and bottoms between the sides of cabinets...I have often wondered why the plans that come with the Sys AZ drawers have that orientation. I believe it is to attach casters..That is the only thing I can think of.
@@sedgetool I don't think one way is really that much stronger than the other. I think it's more about how it looks.
I’m learning how to build my very first cabinet. I’m wondering why you need dominos AND screws? I thought dominos were used in place of screws. Isn’t this overdoing it?
I use the domino for front edge alignment and also for easy assembly
Breaking my heart with all these chip outs and splitting from not using pilot holes. ;(
so sorry
@@sedgetool :) I'm just being a hardass :)
Anyone dare to do a running total of the cost of all tools used to make this cabinet😂
ok
Bruh…his technique works with whatever you have. Festool may be out of reach for most viewers, but use what you have available. Use table saw to rip. Use a $20 iron to edge band. Use pocket holes or clamps and glue with screws in lieu of a domino.
I’m jealous of his tools too, but grateful to learn a technique that he has clearly honed over his career.
@@bblaine1 I know I’m just trolling I have a ton of festool myself
Pretty good video, but a $3500 edge bander? He and are aren't even on the same planet toolwise.
It’s a great tool to have for professionals and for large scale projects, but you can achieve similar results with different methods.
You can achieve the exact same outcome with a clothes iron and a pressure roller. If you don't want to do edge banding, you can fill with wood filler, then sand and paint the edge.
As a custom cabinet maker who works with two huge purveyors of all stone I totally disagree! I make the cabinets and dado or rabbiting in the back is unnecessary; completely ! My stone supplier templates and uses 5/8” Ply on top and not once is 15 yrs has anyone called back and stated their counter tops or cabinets failed because it can not breathe?
These are systems somewhere along the line became incorporated into the box making portions of cabinets ! Why? It’s not for strength ! I never use any 1/4” material! It’s all 3/4” boxes and 1/2” backs sometimes dominoes are used if I think I need them for racking strength and I reinforce my cope & stick / stub tenon doors with #4 or 5 domino ? Drawers are sometimes subbed out sometimes not?
Breathing has nothing to do with a stone top! Support yes! Oxygen? No!
All sounds great just not Cabinet-ly correct !
Good For You !
Mate .. How many hundred thousands of $$ of Festool gear to you have?? Every tool in their book by the looks 😳
a lot......
just looking at the tracks he uses as wall art / hangers broke my budget =)
KS, you do know Sedge has a great "day job," right?
Why do you put in removable backs. Unless it's a sink unit it's a waste of effort, just put an 18mm thick back and dowel it it will make a much stronger and robust unit that does not require grooves to be cut. In Europe all our commercial units are CNC cut with all the dowel holes predrilled. The cost of plywood here would make units far more expensive than double faced chipboard or MDF. Which only requires edgebanding to finish it.
ok
It's a base unit not a piece of art furniture. Removable back panel. Not a chance with worktop fitted. Over engineered by a pedantic and expensive tool expert.
Boy you guys are assholes huh? Who the hell raised you guys? This is some real fatherless behavior.
@@JonDunnmusician so because i am from Europe I am now arrogant? Surely there are arrogant people where ever they are from? I think the message needs rewording a bit to ask a question rather than a statement
If painting though is it not better to use MDF? In the uk we seem to have construction plywood and then birch ply. The first type seems to vary some what in thickness and has voids. Do you have same in states and use birch plywood for these cabinets?
I would imagine that the thin panel is cheaper. US are the masters in cutting costs afterall.
Edit: European here 😂
Watching is interesting, but you’ve got tool sets that are so far out of reach for most intermediate woodworkers that the practicality factor is zero. I’m sure your market is the highest end hobbyist. Thanks anyway.
Thanks for sharing
I want to know what is in all those fancy Festool $ystainer boxes in the background.
I don't see the point in including inches and all that imperial, stick with meters and expect a small portion of the world to learn to use metric and adapt.
ok
Talk less. This video could have been 3 minutes long.
ok
@@sedgetool ignore him, Sedge. Your commentary is much appreciated and enjoyed.
No glue?
nope .... you can if you want...I just never do and have never had a failure .... I can always take apart and modify as well...