I’m still mad busy working on site, but I’m trying to get one video per week uploaded. If you need a rethreading tool you can get them from here- fave.co/2g0jIKT Please like, share and comment as this really helps the channel. I hope everyone has a great Sunday ;-)
I messed up my cooker box today after putting back the boxes after finishing tiling my kitchen. This really spoiled my day. I was sitting having a cup of tea feeling sorry for myself and just idlely thinking what I could do to fix it. I put a search on the internet but never expected an answer. I am so happy you have shown me what to do. Thanks I will now enjoy my weekend and first thing Monday get a rethreading tool. Thanks a million 😁
I bought my retreading tool by chance whilst looking for something else at SF. It's been a life saver since. Even brand new backboxes can be easily messed up and if they are plastered in after you do your 1st fix it's a pain to replace the box. I've used mine several times. Never knew they existed before I stumbled on them by accident.
I've commented before how your safety procedures with isolating electricity are very thorough. These videos are second to none in my opinion. I need to find me one of these tapping tools. Thanks, have a good week.
Never even heard of a rethreading tool. Watched this video then two days later I went from “going to have to rip out this back box” to “this man’s a genius” Thanks!
I'm ashamed to say that there's a socket in our kitchen hanging on with one screw because I couldn't face digging the box out from behing the tiles. Now I know the answer. Threading tool on it's way from eBay as I write! Thanks for a very useful video.
I had to that many times with the old back boxes in my current house when doing the refurbishment.....too many stripped screws that just wouldn't unscrew. However I never knew there was such a tool that could reinstate the screw thread, that is so handy....rather than replacing the little tab with the screw thread which I had to do at the time.......well I suppose they don't call you "ultimate Handyman" for nothing right! A really handy video indeed.
Good video, not a lot of people know about rethreading tools. 1 point though, you tested between L and SL to prove dead, this is incorrect. If 230v was present on both terminals, the voltage indicator would NOT indicate a voltage! You must test L to N, or as you have no N in this switch, L to Earth.
That is correct, if the light was on the voltage tester would not indicate voltage but hopefully most people will know that if the light is illuminated the circuit is still energised and so would not be testing it in the first place. The earth wire had been cut right back on that cable, but I managed to pull some cable down a few MM and just managed to get a connector on the earth wire and then join it and connect it to the back box. Thanks for the comment
Yes but you need an M4 × 0.7 rethreading tap and M4 screws. Or you could drill a 3mm hole in the backbox use this method to tap a hole on the back wall of it and use a larger 3.5 back box screw. Alternatively glue a M3.5 x 0.6mm bolt on the back of the broken lug and use a new screw.
What if the screw is slipping straight through the lug? I'm having this problem and don't know how to fix it and I'm trying to avoid having to replace the back box if possible!
Why can't I unscrew a wall socket? I can't say the thread is stripped because i can't see it as the socket is in the way. How do I remove the screw? A screw driver just takes the screw out by about 5 mm. No matter how much more I unscrew it, it doesn't come out. What's going on here, and is there a nice way to remove the socket?
Try pulling on the socket, whilst undoing the screw at the same time. Sometimes the threads are so badly damaged that turning the screw will not do anything 👍
great job. this is one of tools that if you have one in the tool box you will never need it. I suffered on 2 until I bought the tap . then never needed it again. how would fix it if the hole was striped out and the tap wouldn't work.
Thanks, you could glue a M3.5 nut on the back of the lug using some epoxy glue, you would obviously have to ensure it was centred over the hole correctly. Or you can buy a back box saver, which is a square nut and sleeving but it is expensive at about £6 I think you can also get M4 electrical screws, so you might be able to tap it out to that size. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great simple to follow and informative video as always keep them coming. I'm 34 and a caretaker at a primary school while in my own time at home/during the evenings I'm retraining to become a electrician. Hopefully in January I'll be leaving there and starting to work with a building/maintenance company doing basic maintenance and electrical work so these videos are always useful for little tips and tips. Is there any chance at some point you could do a walk through of your van and tools and give some ideas to what you carry on a day to day Thanks
The hole is not too large. The threaded part is steel, the threads get cross threaded and chew up the brass screws. Once it's re-tapped a new screw will work perfectly ;-)
Another great vid Chez. Got me wondering what happened to my rethreading tool. Haven't seen it for years. There's a yellow plastic box in the back of a shed though. . .
Thanks Dave, This is the second re-threading tool that I have bought and also two M3.5 taps ;-) I once went to do some artexing and could not find my stipple brush, so had to buy another one- perhaps this is why I own 9 tape measures LOL Thanks for the comment
on the subject of back boxes ,a video of how to tile behind socket and other switches in the kitchen would be nice for some perhaps, especially if the cable on the terminal box are too short to pull further out for the tile thickness
Thanks a lot for your wonderful videos. I used your electric cooker installation video to install my cooker. But it turned out that the threads in both clamp screw holes are damaged. For now both the screws seem to hold (I replaced one screw, other rdoes not come out but seems to rotate freely). Would your method for rethreading a back box work with those holes or should I try something else (like backbox saver, although with that I would still need to buy a reamer)? Thanks a lot
When you voltage test the conductors to the switch you will not get a reading between the live and switch live (red and black wire). The test has to be carried out between live and either earth or neutral. First test the switch when it's live (the earth to back box may be broken) then retest after isolating. Don't forget to put earth sleeving on bare conductor and red or brown sleeving on switch live (black conductor). In most cases the threaded hole is stripped, so replacing the box is the only option.
The voltage tester will test for voltage between live and switched live and will sound and illuminate (providing the switch is not on and the circuit is not energised). I've has several back boxes where the screw has damaged the lug in the back box and they can successfully be re-tapped. If the hole is too large to re-tap you can get a "back box saver", but they are expensive- but it can save a lot of hassle removing the old back box. Thanks for the comment ;-)
You can still do this, as they normally have a brass insert for the threads. You have to be careful though, as the insert can come out of the plastic lug (sometimes this happens if the screw cross threads) Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi mate, another great video indeed. I wondered if there is a way I can get some advise from yourself in regards to an electrician career I feel like pursuing. I have certain doubts in terms of future job prospect or if salary is rewarding enough. would you also recommend city&guilts 2365 level 2? Thank you and keep up the great videos. regards
Serendipitous! I have encountered this problem this morning replacing a plastic double socket for a nice bright shiny polished chrome socket, but I don't have the threading tool, so it will have to wait. "It's Sunday dear and all of the shops are shut. Some people actually get a full day off, dontcha know!" If "she" complains, can I draw "her" attention to your video? Don't panic! "She" will find summat else for me to do.
If she is anything like my missus - DO NOT show her the video, as I will of course have done it wrong ;-) Have a great Sunday and thanks for the comment
Another kindred spirit. I will insist on 1/2 a day off in my detached garage conversion-mancave/lock-up/tool and materials store/office/home brewery/entertainment centre. The hands free house phone that "she" supplied for the refuge has just fallen into a bucket of water! (Accidentally on purpose) Mobi is turned off.She, will have to shout down the garden for my attention from now on "whatcha doing in there?" I'm deaf in my right ear. BLISS!
Ultimate Handyman - thanks I did. The video covers how to repair a thread that has become damaged (cross threaded, gummed up with plaster). My problem is that someone has over tightened the box and stripped the metal in a galvanised box ... so insufficient metal to tap a new thread. I could replace the box, however, that will mess up the plaster. The tabs are pressed into the steel, hence, cannot be replaced! Ideas would be welcome. Thanks.
Perhaps a rivnut would work- ua-cam.com/video/f7yIqKnLGPc/v-deo.html Or perhaps use some chemical metal to fill the hole, then drill and re-tap it? I've not tried tapping chemical metal, but have been told that you can tap it.
This is for when the threads are cross threaded, you can often re-tap them using this technique. If the hole is stripped completely, you could try these- fave.co/3vzsiWg Thanks for the comment 👍
Very informative as usual. Thanks. To quote you, 'Pressing the homes button' made me laugh as you always try and talk accurately and concisely without your northern accent, but you'll never quite speak the Queens English. ;-)
haha, well it doesn't take away any credit from you whatsoever. Your attention to detail, thoroughness, your knowldege and skills demonstrated in your videoa are exemplary. Thank you for taking the time to share your comprehensive knowledge.
I recently did a job where the back box was old wooden type (3mm ply board?)... and the screws were just wood screws going into a thin wooden back box... the threads on the wood were stripped.... replacing this was a nightmare as had to end up cutting the wall to fit metal box, then filling and decorating etc...
Blimey, I don't think that would have met the UK wiring regulations! Replacing it was the right thing to do, even if there was a lot of patch up work afterwards. Thanks for the comment
AWW bless! They were a work of art those boxes. Usually coupled with the old wooden capping and casing, like the first ever mini trunking. Good days, installed by proper tradesmen.
Sometimes, if the metal lugs are movable (like they are in your video), just buy a new metal back box (cheap) and swap only the metal lugs over (modify if necessary by cutting with pliers)... then you will have brand new lugs... I agree always use a new screw...
Can you swap the lugs in metal back boxes? I'm sure I looked at this once and it was impossible to remove the lug without damaging the back box on the one I tried. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Yes you can swap them. In your video you will see the metal lug is retained by 4 pieces of bent metal on the backbox. 2 pieces allow the lug to slide up and down. The other 2 pieces stop the lug from dropping down or being removed from sliding upwards. With a screwdriver, bend the top metal bit of the backbox, this allows the lug to be slid out in an upwards direction. Then just slide the new one in. Depends on the design of the metal back box I guess.
It always seems to be the movable lug which needs rethreading. Yes they can be replaced if you get exactly the same make of box, but those with the style which has folded tabs to retain it, can easily break off as the material is monkey metal. Then you are stuffed, best way out is to thread the actual back box and use a long 3.5mm screw or extension pillars.
You could glue a M3.5 nut on the back of the lug using some epoxy glue, you would obviously have to ensure it was centred over the hole correctly. Or you can buy a back box saver, which is a square nut and sleeving but it is expensive at about £6 I think you can also get M4 electrical screws, so you might be able to tap it out to that size. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi, I'm impressed that you have a lock off procedure, however, your test method is slightly flawed for two reasons. You are checking, with your meter, across the light switch. If, for some reason, the bulb in the circuit has blown, or it is an LED lamp with electronic circuitry, then your are not going to have a complete circuit to neutral and the tester will appear to show a dead circuit. The second thing that will also give you a false reading, especially on a staircase with two light switches, is that you do not know what position the light switch is in, so if the switch is closed and you measure across it, once again, the meter will show an apparently dead circuit, which could actually still be live. The safest way to be 100% sure that your circuit is dead, is to check between one terminal and the earthed backbox of the switch, then check between the other terminal and the backbox again. This way, you definitely know that the circuit is safe to work on.
No problem, I would have tested using the earth terminal but there was no earth wire (it had been cut right back, which is unusual as the house was built in the 80's) Thanks for the comment
Nice video Chez, but you have UNEARTHED more problems! Those cpc`s need sleeving AND terminating into the metal back box. Lord knows why people do this! Sometimes it`s worth putting your probes on, to see if it`s actually connected at the other end. The rethreader you show is the best type, some are really short, and are no use if the box is well sunk into the wall.
Yes, I'll sort that at a later date. I can't understand why someone would not connect the earth wire to the earthing terminal, although judging by some of the electrics in this house they seem to have been done by someone wearing a large hat, and apparently the previous owners did zero DIY. Thanks for the comment
YEEHAA! Back in the day when batten holders were predominant, many didn`t have an earth terminal, and light switch back boxes had plastic lugs and no earth terminal either. Electricians got into bad habits by chopping the earth off! That`s my take on it anyway..
when i replaced them fucking disgusting 3 pin lamp holders on my new build flat to bayonet 2 pin ones ,i just put a bulb between the wires to test any current :D
I’m still mad busy working on site, but I’m trying to get one video per week uploaded. If you need a rethreading tool you can get them from here- fave.co/2g0jIKT
Please like, share and comment as this really helps the channel. I hope everyone has a great Sunday ;-)
I messed up my cooker box today after putting back the boxes after finishing tiling my kitchen. This really spoiled my day. I was sitting having a cup of tea feeling sorry for myself and just idlely thinking what I could do to fix it. I put a search on the internet but never expected an answer. I am so happy you have shown me what to do. Thanks I will now enjoy my weekend and first thing Monday get a rethreading tool. Thanks a million 😁
I'm delighted that the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I bought my retreading tool by chance whilst looking for something else at SF. It's been a life saver since.
Even brand new backboxes can be easily messed up and if they are plastered in after you do your 1st fix it's a pain to replace the box. I've used mine several times. Never knew they existed before I stumbled on them by accident.
I must have 3 or 4 socket rethreading tools/ M3.5 taps but I always seem to lose them!
Thanks for the comments ;-)
I've commented before how your safety procedures with isolating electricity are very thorough. These videos are second to none in my opinion.
I need to find me one of these tapping tools.
Thanks, have a good week.
Thanks Ian ;-)
Get the one shown here, with the longer shaft. Some are really short, and not much use when the box is sunk deep into the wall.
Lol @ the chastity belt for the circuit breaker.....i usually find shouting 'don't touch the fuse box, you will kill me' - does the job :)
Do you know how much I'm worth dead ?
So does the girlfriend ;-)
Is the padlock needed?
Surely the lockout device being screwed down is good enough.
That's our health and safety working at its best! 240v is quite invigorating anyway, probably better than a strong coffee for waking you up!!
Haha awesum im goNNa try that next time
Never even heard of a rethreading tool. Watched this video then two days later I went from “going to have to rip out this back box” to “this man’s a genius”
Thanks!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm ashamed to say that there's a socket in our kitchen hanging on with one screw because I couldn't face digging the box out from behing the tiles. Now I know the answer. Threading tool on it's way from eBay as I write! Thanks for a very useful video.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you very much for yet another fantastic and informative video. Absolutely brilliant watching your videos. Keep up the good work.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
I had to that many times with the old back boxes in my current house when doing the refurbishment.....too many stripped screws that just wouldn't unscrew. However I never knew there was such a tool that could reinstate the screw thread, that is so handy....rather than replacing the little tab with the screw thread which I had to do at the time.......well I suppose they don't call you "ultimate Handyman" for nothing right! A really handy video indeed.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Best diy youtuber always learning something new full of infomation! Thanksss
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this video bro. You really helped me out.
Good video, not a lot of people know about rethreading tools.
1 point though, you tested between L and SL to prove dead, this is incorrect. If 230v was present on both terminals, the voltage indicator would NOT indicate a voltage! You must test L to N, or as you have no N in this switch, L to Earth.
That is correct, if the light was on the voltage tester would not indicate voltage but hopefully most people will know that if the light is illuminated the circuit is still energised and so would not be testing it in the first place. The earth wire had been cut right back on that cable, but I managed to pull some cable down a few MM and just managed to get a connector on the earth wire and then join it and connect it to the back box.
Thanks for the comment
Will this work on the 4BA threads found in the older boxes or does it just strip them ?
I'm not sure, sorry.
Yes but you need an M4 × 0.7 rethreading tap and M4 screws. Or you could drill a 3mm hole in the backbox use this method to tap a hole on the back wall of it and use a larger 3.5 back box screw. Alternatively glue a M3.5 x 0.6mm bolt on the back of the broken lug and use a new screw.
Screw going straight through the clip, will doing this fix that issue if I use a bigger socket screw? Or is it buggered?
This might help-
ua-cam.com/video/7DPfPUDafSM/v-deo.html
Video saved me today. Went to the s fix and got one for a stripped thread I have when fitting a new switch
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
What if the screw is slipping straight through the lug? I'm having this problem and don't know how to fix it and I'm trying to avoid having to replace the back box if possible!
Just search for “backbox saver”, they make a special nut and sleeve for fixing stripped threads 👍
Why can't I unscrew a wall socket? I can't say the thread is stripped because i can't see it as the socket is in the way. How do I remove the screw? A screw driver just takes the screw out by about 5 mm. No matter how much more I unscrew it, it doesn't come out.
What's going on here, and is there a nice way to remove the socket?
Try pulling on the socket, whilst undoing the screw at the same time.
Sometimes the threads are so badly damaged that turning the screw will not do anything 👍
great job. this is one of tools that if you have one in the tool box you will never need it. I suffered on 2 until I bought the tap . then never needed it again.
how would fix it if the hole was striped out and the tap wouldn't work.
Thanks, you could glue a M3.5 nut on the back of the lug using some epoxy glue, you would obviously have to ensure it was centred over the hole correctly. Or you can buy a back box saver, which is a square nut and sleeving but it is expensive at about £6
I think you can also get M4 electrical screws, so you might be able to tap it out to that size.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Just a quick one. Absolutely great work. Fantastic informative videos all the time. Keep it up
Thanks for the comment
Great simple to follow and informative video as always keep them coming.
I'm 34 and a caretaker at a primary school while in my own time at home/during the evenings I'm retraining to become a electrician. Hopefully in January I'll be leaving there and starting to work with a building/maintenance company doing basic maintenance and electrical work so these videos are always useful for little tips and tips.
Is there any chance at some point you could do a walk through of your van and tools and give some ideas to what you carry on a day to day
Thanks
Very useful to know, saves digging out the old back box. Thumbs up from me.
Thanks Mike ;-)
;-)
And what if the screw holes are completely shredded and too big for a 3.5mm rethreading? And if the boxes are behind some expensive tiles? .....
You could try one of these two solutions-
www.backboxrepairclip.co.uk/
backboxsaver.com/
Does anyone have any idea what do when rethreadingg just no longer works, screws simply not gripping?
You could try one of these- backboxsaver.com/
Or perhaps one of these- fave.co/3FkfB5A
How do you re-tap a hole that is larger than the thread on the tap????
The hole is not too large. The threaded part is steel, the threads get cross threaded and chew up the brass screws. Once it's re-tapped a new screw will work perfectly ;-)
Another great vid Chez. Got me wondering what happened to my rethreading tool. Haven't seen it for years. There's a yellow plastic box in the back of a shed though. . .
Thanks Dave,
This is the second re-threading tool that I have bought and also two M3.5 taps ;-)
I once went to do some artexing and could not find my stipple brush, so had to buy another one- perhaps this is why I own 9 tape measures LOL
Thanks for the comment
Only 9 tapes? How do you ever find one? :-) I'll only admit to having "several" :-)
I wish I had seen this a while ago, had the same issue and ended up removing the back box completely and fitting a new one!
Thanks for the comment
Great tips. Thanks for sharing, that kamasa brand looks well made. I have one from Screwfix.
You are welcome.
I have some Kamasa sockets somewhere that I have had almost 30 years, they are a decent brand of tool.
Thanks for the comment
on the subject of back boxes ,a video of how to tile behind socket and other switches in the kitchen would be nice for some perhaps, especially if the cable on the terminal box are too short to pull further out for the tile thickness
I normally remove the sockets when tiling a kitchen- ua-cam.com/video/vKpaCbVjDBI/v-deo.html
Looking for one of these, there seems to be an M3.5 x .06 and a x .07? Which would be best?
As far as I am aware a M3.5 is normally 0.6 pitch
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is it safe to replace a metal backbox to plastic backbox?
In most cases it is, but metal backboxes are better than plastic.
Thanks a lot for your wonderful videos. I used your electric cooker installation video to install my cooker. But it turned out that the threads in both clamp screw holes are damaged. For now both the screws seem to hold (I replaced one screw, other rdoes not come out but seems to rotate freely). Would your method for rethreading a back box work with those holes or should I try something else (like backbox saver, although with that I would still need to buy a reamer)? Thanks a lot
You could try re-threading them, if it fails you could try a backbox saver etc.
Thanks for the comment 👍
what about those plastic ones with a brass thread embedded in the box?
You can re-thread those too, but the metal insert might come loose from the housing - meaning you might need a new patress.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great videos and explanation..cheers 👍🏻
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
When you voltage test the conductors to the switch you will not get a reading between the live and switch live (red and black wire). The test has to be carried out between live and either earth or neutral. First test the switch when it's live (the earth to back box may be broken) then retest after isolating. Don't forget to put earth sleeving on bare conductor and red or brown sleeving on switch live (black conductor).
In most cases the threaded hole is stripped, so replacing the box is the only option.
The voltage tester will test for voltage between live and switched live and will sound and illuminate (providing the switch is not on and the circuit is not energised).
I've has several back boxes where the screw has damaged the lug in the back box and they can successfully be re-tapped.
If the hole is too large to re-tap you can get a "back box saver", but they are expensive- but it can save a lot of hassle removing the old back box.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What about if the screw thread enclosure is plastic?
You can still do this, as they normally have a brass insert for the threads.
You have to be careful though, as the insert can come out of the plastic lug (sometimes this happens if the screw cross threads)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very useful to know that you can do that.
Thanks for the comment
Hi mate, another great video indeed. I wondered if there is a way I can get some advise from yourself in regards to an electrician career I feel like pursuing. I have certain doubts in terms of future job prospect or if salary is rewarding enough. would you also recommend city&guilts 2365 level 2? Thank you and keep up the great videos. regards
Sorry, I do not know.
I would never choose a career just for the money- try and so something you enjoy ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Serendipitous! I have encountered this problem this morning replacing a plastic double socket for a nice bright shiny polished chrome socket, but I don't have the threading tool, so it will have to wait.
"It's Sunday dear and all of the shops are shut. Some people actually get a full day off, dontcha know!"
If "she" complains, can I draw "her" attention to your video? Don't panic! "She" will find summat else for me to do.
If she is anything like my missus - DO NOT show her the video, as I will of course have done it wrong ;-)
Have a great Sunday and thanks for the comment
Another kindred spirit. I will insist on 1/2 a day off in my detached garage conversion-mancave/lock-up/tool and materials store/office/home brewery/entertainment centre. The hands free house phone that "she" supplied for the refuge has just fallen into a bucket of water! (Accidentally on purpose) Mobi is turned off.She, will have to shout down the garden for my attention from now on "whatcha doing in there?" I'm deaf in my right ear. BLISS!
Who dislikes a video like this???
Haters gonna hate ;-)
Hiya buddy. Do you have a video with step by step guide to fitting an outside floodlight and taking power from socket inside? Thanks very much
Hi, No I don't, sorry.
Ultimate Handyman OK matey thanks very much anyway 👍
Any suggestions what to do about stripped threads on metal boxes?
You could try these- backboxsaver.com/
Ultimate Handyman - thanks I did.
The video covers how to repair a thread that has become damaged (cross threaded, gummed up with plaster). My problem is that someone has over tightened the box and stripped the metal in a galvanised box ... so insufficient metal to tap a new thread.
I could replace the box, however, that will mess up the plaster. The tabs are pressed into the steel, hence, cannot be replaced!
Ideas would be welcome.
Thanks.
Perhaps a rivnut would work- ua-cam.com/video/f7yIqKnLGPc/v-deo.html
Or perhaps use some chemical metal to fill the hole, then drill and re-tap it?
I've not tried tapping chemical metal, but have been told that you can tap it.
Ultimate Handyman - rivnuts ... a fascinating idea. I shall try.
Thanks.
Thank you for this information good show cheers
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you an excellent video
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Useful tips, thanks
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Great video👍👍👍 thanks for sharing.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thank uncle thank you so mach
👍
Not sure I see how this helps if the thread is stripped out of the lug. I guess the solution would be 4m re-threader and replace bolts with 4mm.
This is for when the threads are cross threaded, you can often re-tap them using this technique.
If the hole is stripped completely, you could try these- fave.co/3vzsiWg
Thanks for the comment 👍
very helpful video thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Are you from Wigan?
No, I’m from Darwen, but Wigan is not far away 👍
Very informative as usual. Thanks. To quote you, 'Pressing the homes button' made me laugh as you always try and talk accurately and concisely without your northern accent, but you'll never quite speak the Queens English. ;-)
Yeah, it's just no good. I say Ohms and it comes out Homes and I say hammer and it comes out ammer.
I give up ;-)
haha, well it doesn't take away any credit from you whatsoever. Your attention to detail, thoroughness, your knowldege and skills demonstrated in your videoa are exemplary. Thank you for taking the time to share your comprehensive knowledge.
I recently did a job where the back box was old wooden type (3mm ply board?)... and the screws were just wood screws going into a thin wooden back box... the threads on the wood were stripped.... replacing this was a nightmare as had to end up cutting the wall to fit metal box, then filling and decorating etc...
Blimey, I don't think that would have met the UK wiring regulations!
Replacing it was the right thing to do, even if there was a lot of patch up work afterwards.
Thanks for the comment
AWW bless! They were a work of art those boxes. Usually coupled with the old wooden capping and casing, like the first ever mini trunking. Good days, installed by proper tradesmen.
Sometimes, if the metal lugs are movable (like they are in your video), just buy a new metal back box (cheap) and swap only the metal lugs over (modify if necessary by cutting with pliers)... then you will have brand new lugs... I agree always use a new screw...
Can you swap the lugs in metal back boxes?
I'm sure I looked at this once and it was impossible to remove the lug without damaging the back box on the one I tried.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Yes you can swap them. In your video you will see the metal lug is retained by 4 pieces of bent metal on the backbox. 2 pieces allow the lug to slide up and down. The other 2 pieces stop the lug from dropping down or being removed from sliding upwards. With a screwdriver, bend the top metal bit of the backbox, this allows the lug to be slid out in an upwards direction. Then just slide the new one in. Depends on the design of the metal back box I guess.
It always seems to be the movable lug which needs rethreading. Yes they can be replaced if you get exactly the same make of box, but those with the style which has folded tabs to retain it, can easily break off as the material is monkey metal. Then you are stuffed, best way out is to thread the actual back box and use a long 3.5mm screw or extension pillars.
is there an easy fix for those who have stripped out oversize?
You could glue a M3.5 nut on the back of the lug using some epoxy glue, you would obviously have to ensure it was centred over the hole correctly. Or you can buy a back box saver, which is a square nut and sleeving but it is expensive at about £6
I think you can also get M4 electrical screws, so you might be able to tap it out to that size.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I did this now the lug is to big???
How can the lug be too big? The lug should be the same size as it was before.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman ive some how made it slightly bigger and the screw won't hold properly. Can't nip up
Hi, I'm impressed that you have a lock off procedure, however, your test method is slightly flawed for two reasons.
You are checking, with your meter, across the light switch. If, for some reason, the bulb in the circuit has blown, or it is an LED lamp with electronic circuitry, then your are not going to have a complete circuit to neutral and the tester will appear to show a dead circuit.
The second thing that will also give you a false reading, especially on a staircase with two light switches, is that you do not know what position the light switch is in, so if the switch is closed and you measure across it, once again, the meter will show an apparently dead circuit, which could actually still be live.
The safest way to be 100% sure that your circuit is dead, is to check between one terminal and the earthed backbox of the switch, then check between the other terminal and the backbox again. This way, you definitely know that the circuit is safe to work on.
Sorry, I fired this off before watching the rest of the video, where you do EXACTLY what I have suggested :(
No problem, I would have tested using the earth terminal but there was no earth wire (it had been cut right back, which is unusual as the house was built in the 80's)
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enjoyed the video
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DO NOT test between the top and bottom terminals to ensure its dead...
Testing between the live and switched live terminal will indicate that it is live (providing the light is not illuminated).
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Nice video Chez, but you have UNEARTHED more problems! Those cpc`s need sleeving AND terminating into the metal back box. Lord knows why people do this! Sometimes it`s worth putting your probes on, to see if it`s actually connected at the other end. The rethreader you show is the best type, some are really short, and are no use if the box is well sunk into the wall.
Yes, I'll sort that at a later date.
I can't understand why someone would not connect the earth wire to the earthing terminal, although judging by some of the electrics in this house they seem to have been done by someone wearing a large hat, and apparently the previous owners did zero DIY.
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YEEHAA! Back in the day when batten holders were predominant, many didn`t have an earth terminal, and light switch back boxes had plastic lugs and no earth terminal either. Electricians got into bad habits by chopping the earth off! That`s my take on it anyway..
wish i saw this last week... i ended up gluing a new tab into the box....
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3:00 Older coloured coded supply wires I believe
That is correct.
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Thank you + GOD Bless
You are welcome.
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Got me out of a spot this. What's your trade mate
I'm a maintenance engineer in a local chemical plant.
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@@ultimatehandyman like Homer Simpson mate 😂😂
@@ultimatehandyman keep up the videos mate your my go to guy for getting out of bother
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when i replaced them fucking disgusting 3 pin lamp holders on my new build flat to bayonet 2 pin ones ,i just put a bulb between the wires to test any current :D
LOL, can you imagine how much I'd get trolled if I did that in a video ;-)
Hey! You spelt andyman wrong.
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Lugs are gone in my case !
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Or just glue the switch to the wall with no nails
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Didn't realise you got electric oop norf
Yes, we have had it a couple of years now. It is really useful when the gas lamps go out ;-)
get a back box take the lug out and just slide the new lug into position, no need to get a tap ffs
You can't do that with a metal back box ;-)
Quality
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