Climbing Technique For Intermediate - Episode 1 - Dynos
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2016
- The first Climbing Technique For Intermediate is now live!
We are talking about dynos, its one of the most fun moves, but also one of the hardest to master and trust. So today im gonna share my knowledge on the matter and teach you have to dyno!
I got Help from Nikken and Linda, so big thanks to them!
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Songs
epidemicsound.com
Globetrotter 2 - Johannes Bornlöf
One Life 1 - Niklas Gustavsson - Спорт
The thing that got me good at dynos was what my friend told to me. He said "Try to hit your face on the hold, but don't."
Can U please do more episodes of climbing tips for intermediate? I'm sure that a lot of people want that
Eric you always look like you're holding an imaginary burger when you're talking to camera!
Great video and perfectly timed as I just started working on a problem with a dyno, thanks guys!
Imaginary vegan burger*
Great, now I cant un-see this image of an imaginary burger lol
That was my issue so I wanted to share the problem with other people :P
Best dyno instructional video out there. Awesome, thanks!
Absolutely the best climbing channel on you tube !
Super high quality and always fun to watch
Thanks for the support and the super nice words man
Good tips, thanks! Can't wait for episode 2.
Make more intermediate videos please!
Really cool beginners videos. Love your channel so far. Especially the "The project" stuff is amazing.
Just in case you need some ideas for future videos in this section:
Slopers,
Mantling,
Hooks,
Kneebar
This was great! Can you please make more intermediate technique videos? I love your channel and how you break things down. The slow motion was super helpful
Awesome! The side by side comparison and slow-mo was really good, it's really easy to spot the differences in the good and bad examples!
Really nice channel! I'm new to bouldering and found your channel while getting out what bouldering is and I am already a fan of it!
Yes, yes, 1000 times yes! Please continue this series you beautiful Swede!
Also, the side by side comparisons were amazing!~
Super happy you liked them Daniel! :D
Nice, looking forward to the next!
Yay intermediate series! ^.^ thanks from London
awesome videos Eric, really good music and tips!
Just get to the whole climbing thing, ur guys' videos are SUPER helpful, wanna say thank you here!
That makes me super happy to hear :D
I always teach a dyno as a hand-guided jump. Where the legs get you the verticality and the arms pull you in the general direction of the hold. Great vid Erik!
Hey when is the next climbing technique video coming? Just recently started bouldering and your videos have been a great help! Looking forward to more training vids from you! Cheers!
Such an awesome video! Super easy to follow, and I loved the music choice and editing! Will definitely use this new advice in the gym tomorrow. Thank you!
Keep me updated on how it went Raven!
Great comparison showing the bad vs good motion!
hey eric
I would love to see a video in wich you are giving us a workout plan because me and I think a lot other too don't know how to train when to train and how to warm up for this.
I just found this video now~ it posted oe year ago! but it is very helpful for me. thank you!!a suggestion.. can you also post on jumping on the volume+ dyno?!
Oooh yay! Thanks for the tips :) I definitely find it difficult to take all of the power out of the legs, but it's getting better! I'm totally in love with coordination dyno's and double-clutch moves, so much fun! :D
Yeah dynos are to much fun! :D
I am still waiting for the next episode. I was wondering if you could make a video about combining warm up with technique as i usually warm up away from the wall and then starts climbing the easier problems before i move on. Anyway, i am looking forward to watch more technique videos!
I really enjoyed this series when I began climbing and came back to review it again and would like to know if you guys think you can continue the series? I think you have a big crowd of intermediate and advanced climbers who like myself could benefit from more technique videos. Stuff like proper heel hook, toe hook, gaston work, figure 4 maybe, even spotting instruction. Thanks
Please make more!!!!
I've been waiting for this video !!! :D
:D:D
MORE OF THESE!
How to dyno: Jump!
How to jump: use your legs!
:) Love the channel, lot's of emphasis on form, which is the most important part to avoid injury. Keep climbing and do what you do, because that is what we like! Peace
Thanks For the support man
The hips closer to the wall tip makes a bigger difference than you would think!
Could you guys do a video teaching us how to do a toe/heel hook on an underhang along with transitions?
+hyau23 We could look into doing something like that! What do you mean by transitions?
Nikken D Probably the only man that don't reply when one of the authors answer his comment ^^
Hair game strong, Eric. This vid is great for two reasons: (1) the music accompaniment with no lyrics perfectly complements the dynos and (2) apparently I'm no longer a beginner and have advanced to intermediate!
Hair game
This is super helpful.
Good job guys! Dynos are definietly my weakness :/
Thanks! duude i have seen you climb, strong one!
I've always been scared to try the dyno because I feel like I'm going to hit my face against the wall or another hold so I bail before really trying the movement. But I have to say this video makes me pretty excited about trying this move again. Thanks for the tips and tricks!
+Boomer77000 it's all about practice! Start small and work your way up, I try and devote a session to working on dynos and dynamic movement about once a week. It also really helps to have someone to practice with, different people have different ideas for dynos that you can try :)
Baaaom! A new one! Sorry for the wait!
That was fast! Request it and it comes up 2 days later ;p Loving the music choice!
Where's the 2nd?
yes please continue this series!!!
Please make more!
Eric Karlsson Bouldering
great vid i completely remember doing the bad technique but i learned good technique after a ton of trial and error
Hi Eric, Thanks for the Video - will you continue this intermediate series?
Damn thats good, more of it!
Continue this series plz
ERIC! I love your channel. Please do more tutorials, they help so much!
Episode 2 please!
thanks to this video I made my first dyno today
Very helpfull for beginners like me
I think two more things are important: I have seen several people who are new to dynos focusing completely on the jump but not on the target and they hurt their fingers / hands because of that. The other thing is: if a dyno is not at the limit of your reach when you jump, I suggest jumping a little higher than necessary; allowing you to reduce the force on the elbow and shoulder joints.
Hi! Love your videos. How should I approach a dyno where I have to come away from the wall because there's a big hold in the way? The problem I'm having is not being able to get high enough to catch the top of the jug. Thanks!!
Today was on a climb where I got stuck on a dyno so this video came just in time LOL thanks. I was using my arms for power instead of my legs
Good to hear man :) Hope it goes well for you!
Hey guys, this video was super helpful, thank you! i"m just starting to get good enough to attempt dynos and i"ve noticed there's a mental aspect to it as well. Is there anything you guys do to clear your heard before going for it?
Can you make an advanced video about fingers? like.. not only close/open grips, i think about finger placement, one finger pockets, how to hold different type of 1 and 2 finger holds, how to train fingers, including deadhangs, etc.
btw i think leg strength is also important for dynos
Could you please do a tutorial on toe and heel hooks? I really struggle on those xD
When are you intermediate. Love your videos 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the videos :)
I haven't been doing dynos for very long as I was never really confident enough. Now I have been practicing and have a question!
When you're executing a dyno to the side, so horizontal than vertical, how do you kill the swing? There's a big horizontal dyno on to a single jug at my gym. It's great fun, but I swing a lot and it's hard to get my feet straight onto the wall!
Tack!!
Great videos, keep it up! Was wondering if you guys could maybe do a video on injuries? Maybe some info on preventing or treating some of them. Cheers.
+AWiseTurtle What kind of injuries do you want us to cover? I think that we've gone over a fair amount of the various injuries that we've had over the course of our videos, but maybe we could do a shorter condensed video if people are interested :)
+Nikken D I think that a condensed version would be perfect. I'm quite a new climber, only been doing it for a few months, and since my last climb (a few days ago) my fingers have swollen up. Since i don't know any more experienced climbers I am unsure how serious it is. I plan to see a physio in a day or 2 but i know you guys have been through various injuries.
When is episode 2 coming out and what is episode 2 going to be about?
awesome episode guys :D
Thanks Joris!
One day i'll be in your town, and i'll come by at your gym, and i will climb with you! no excuses!
Looking forward to it! :D
You talk about keeping your hips close to the wall during the dyno - is this just in the feet and arms (like, pulling yourself towards the wall) or are there some tricks, for instance pointing your knees in or out?
woo! I need these :D nice shoes man
:D
I struggle with dynos because I lack the confidence to make the move! I just need to practice lots 😁
WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO MAKE A NOTHER VIDEO ON THIS
What climbing shoes do you use eric?
thanks for the tip that smear should give me some extra power
3:25 those two aspects are what I didn't know
What if the footholds are too low for you to really sink down?
you should lower the volume of the music
När kommer nästa? :)
There is no part 2 :(
what's the name of the song at 4:11?
Sweet video!
I was looking for the app that you recommended once to keep track of food and exercise. Can anyone find it please?
aah you talk about cronometer.com/ ?
Yes! Thankssss
More!
hehe :D
this looks like it would cause a shit tonne of injuries, how to prevent that?
hi could you talk about how to kill the swing when dynoing so you don't swing off
engage your core, it really helps
Yeah, its really just a core/body tension issue. It may be useful to imagine yourself curling up. First, this reduces the force you feel from the swing; Second, it makes it much easier to control your lower half because its more compact. Try getting on a hangboard (on jugs) and start swinging back and forth and try to slow down as fast as possible. You'll feel your core engaging.
This was a little long winded, but I hope it helps.
do more tutorial vids plz
Loved this video I needed one of these videos. Can you do one about dynos that are diagonal not just straight up pls. Many thanks!!!
Great that you liked it! when you learn how to dyno, then you can dyno at any diraction, its all up to your arms to chose what direction you want to go, the power,force and realese it same for all dynos, its more how you want to position your self and how to shape the force with your arms :) So maybe in the future i can do a advanced video on dynos, when we try crazy tricky jumps and see what we can take from that :)
+Eric Karlsson Bouldering thank you for the tip I will be sure to use my legs more.
Can you show Hannes this video?
What's up dude I'm having a hard time pushing into the v9 range (I think that's 7b?) any tips?
+kalino mergel try all the hard stuff you can! When i'm trying to break into a new grade, I try and project things that are going to a grade or two above it! When it comes to trying harder and harder problems, part of it is having the necessary power and finger strength, but the other part is exposing yourself to the kind of moves that you'll be finding on harder problems :)
hey could u give a technique for doing a dyno with 1 foot?
+Steven Brock When it comes to one footed dynos the power for your legs will end up being around 70/30% split, where the foot on the hold will have 70% of the power and the other foot should be smeared on the wall with around 30% of the power!
What's a good tip on committing to the handholds?
Keep trying over and over i would say, if you do the dyno with the right force and angle, it will feel alot better then catching the hold when you fall away from it, rather then landing in it on the way up :)
so Keep go with the intent of holding it, learn when to let go so you dont get any super crazy falls :)
Also, pretend the floor is magma and that if you fall off the hand holds, you'll burn alive. Self-preservation is a powerful motivator to commit😀
How about a new video on techniques ? :/
First off, love your videos, especially how much value you place on posture and form. Also, this video is good for the most part.
However, the last minute or so I noticed a flaw. In your examples of "correct" dynos, you had climbers pumping their legs up and down.... essentially practicing the dyno before they cut feet and go for the hand holds. I have been told, and totally agree, that this movement is a waste of energy, because you simply do not gain anything from it; you only get your arms incredibly pumped. I feel ya gotta mention this somewhere. It doesn't really matter if you are doing a one or two move boulder problem but if you are climbing something where conserving energy is crucial, this is not the way to do it.
Cheers.
thanks for the nice words and support! I agree with you on the part of pumpning you out when you go back and fort too many times, that for me is a guidline, when it is a tricky dyno at your limit, it has to take as many times as you need, to get the curage to do it, i dont want to putt limits on amount of tries, this is training after all :) i would not call it a flaw :)
I agree on trying to aim for 1-2 bounces, but to restrict your self when you learn is not good. People do the bounces cause they are afraid of commiting to it, so they know when they are ready. People will shorten the bounces when they are starting to trust there momvment.
Cheers!
Eric if you only slowed down the part when they are in the air, that would look so much better!!
That would defeat the purpose. He is trying to demonstrate the whole movement.
snowyearound for this video, I meant for others! But you´re right haha
bruh me skiping half aclimb with a dino because i cant get the start or im too tired to make a crimp in the beggining
lmao
I think the thing that gets most people is they're thinking of climbing up from the ground instead of crawling across a vertical wall. Which is just what I noticed it looks like frok watching rock climbers, still a beginner so I don't know for sure.
hey eric im sure you dont read stuff this far back, but i have gotten super into climbing over the past 5 months going from v0 up to v7/8 projects now, your channel has helped a ton, do you have any tips as far as slopers? they are my bane...links to your videos or insight would be amazing
(I'm not Eric, but funnily enough my name is Erik) I feel you on the slopers, one thing that I learned was to make sure you use as much surface area on your hand as possible on the slope. You kinda have to focus the grip in your palm and fingers, and not your fingertips like almost every other hold. Hope this helps you like it did me
(I still really hate slopers though. That hasn't changed)
Mani the Monkey alike, even the style, r you guys a team?
dynos are so scary and painful:(
Are you Swedish ?
yeah :)
Eric Karlsson Bouldering Nice video btw. Dynamic moves are a bit of a weakness for me which is bad for my bouldering in general.
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To know that outdoor sports is a great risk of sports, climbing is not a park; holding the attitude of visiting the park to climb the mountain sooner or later will suffer, and even serious life-threatening.
General we in the wild outdoors may occur in some cases nothing more than the following:
(1) late return,
(2) exhausted physical,
(3) bad weather,
(4) Night march,
(5) injury or illness;
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(1) map (waterproof),
(2) the compass,
(3) headlights (including spare bulbs and batteries, the battery is the kind of electricity, the bulb is so that the kind of, Oh)
(4) spare food (including water),
(5) spare clothing (good waterproof),
(6) hats, sunglasses,
(7) the Swiss Army dao,
(8) fire (good waterproof),
(9) Rope,
(10) first aid kit (waterproof).
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Thanks you so much for listening to all of us and responding not only in the comment but the videos that you make, it really means a lot. Please can you do a video on how to improve finger strength thanks
Episode 2 please!