How to Flag - A Climbing Technique for Achieving Balance
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
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Flagging is a technique that’s used to achieve balance with the leg that’s not connected to a foothold. It’s done in situations where there is only one available foothold, or if there are multiple footholds, only one that is practical for achieving balance.
There are three types of flags:
Outside Flag
Back flag
Inside flag
This video will go over each type, the conditions needed for doing them, and their application on a variety of boulder problems.
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LINKS:
Neil Gresham's Masterclass (Flag episode):
• 8 Neil Greshams Master...
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships Bouldering Highlights:
• IFSC World Championshi...
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As a new climber this was extremely helpful. I'm starting to get into V2's and V3's where flagging starts to become a must to climb efficiently at my gym. I'm hoping to incorporate this much more into my climbing. Thanks!
Yeah, same...how are you now? It's been 7 months since your comment...I hope you're well into the 5's and 6's by now!
@@TheActiveLifeLived Hi! It's been over a year since your comment. How are YOU now?
@@Iberium doing well! Getting the pyramid of training in...trying to do a lot more easier climbs at different styles. Got to a 7b in my first year... wasn't the best of strategies. Now climbing lots of easier stuff and projecting an outdoor v8...
@@TheActiveLifeLived Cool! I looked at some of your latest videos after I posted the comment. I actually linked the pull up with weight video to a friend as explanation why I do it lol
Any updates for us? I am where you were 2 years ago when you made this comment :b
This is a gem among the many climbing videos out there. Thanks for the clear and focused demonstration.
I find inside flags are more effective/useful in overhanging environments, when keeping your hips close to the wall is critical to take the most advantage of the cantilever effect
Flag family reunion 😂😂😂
BTW this is the clearest and most concise flagging video I’ve seen. Thanks so much for putting this together.
You have the best climbing videos I’ve ever seen by far! You know your stuff so well and portray it in an easy-to-learn way! Having sections on how and more importantly when is so so important, and not many people explain that! I’ve learned more from you than any other creator combined, keep up the good work!
Inside flag helps a lot when you can't easily switch feet and your hips need to be high (for example: when holding a bad undercling)
Very good observation
I always come back to your videos from time to time to brush up on climbing technique. They are always incredibly helpful! Thank you!
I am 3 months into climbing and these are some of the most educational videos that I have watched. Not only educational, but how you break it all down is so helpful! Thank you!
Never thought that explaining climbing techniques could be this zen... Mad respect for the well-articulated format and explanation !!
Awesome video and I LOLed at the Neil Gresham video mention bc that is where I first learned to flag as a new climber and for a while I was confusing myself trying to inside flag all the time (he calls normal flagging “outside edge”). Agree I’ve only ever used the inside flag on awkward starts or matching the finish when I am too lazy to switch feet. Never seen anyone else do them.
Possibly the best video explaining flags I’ve seen. Well done sir.
Brilliant video. Just pure gold content with no filler. Appreciate the lack of "noise."
Thank you! I just started climbing this week and I'm trying to understand bouldering lingo better. Love your videos... subscribed :)
I am just starting to get into bouldering and this is the best video I found on UA-cam!!!! Love your sharing and thanks a lot❤❤❤
Watched this vid yesterday. Went to the gym today and got through a difficult move for me on a V5 by trying the inside flag. No other way I could personally get that move. Without this vid I would have not even thought of it. Thanks!
Seldomly, I have seen videos produced with so much passion, ability, and perfection. Keep it up! I hope you'll stay true to your own style!
This is by far the most clear flagging video I've seen yet. I've only been climbing for a year and have only incorporated outside flagging to my routine. I'll definitely push myself to try back flagging now that it's more clear what kind of situations to use it in. :)
I watched this video when i started climbing and could only understand/apply the outside flag. Rewatching this video now and totally brought back movements where back and inside flag could help me. Thank you!!
I have just been at a bouldering competition where one of the women's final boulder was such that every competitor used an inside flag. They had to pull themselves up into sketchy slopery undercling and while standing they had to counter the rotation due to the bad foothold, but backflag would require lowering the hips which wasn't possible so they naturaly insideflaged. :) Great video as always, keep it up!
This is an awesome video, been working with my boy on back flagging and trying to explain the utilization is very difficult (especially as hes 6) but this explains it perfectly. Now need to work out some scenarios for an inside flag. Love your videos man, keep it up!
Thanks brother for explaining
this technique in such a practical way.
Your videos are kind of amazing. New climber and I am just eating up your content. Love the editing and the voice overs!!! More more more!
I flagged for the first time today. It worked and it felt amazing.
I wish I knew someone better then me this is so much harder to get good at then skateboarding was because I have nobody better then me to learn from irl
Great video! I find this channel to be one the most comprehensible for beginner climbers like myself.
Non-musical video which I watch regularly and on a repeat. I am so grateful for it! Thanks!
learning to flag and crimp properly were some of the biggest improvements i made early on
Very well explained, I appreciate the work that went into this!
Thanks! This really cleared up a lot for me on inside/outside flagging.
Love your work man, best tutorials and so easy to follow. Followed on Patreon, looking forward to more amazing content!
Another excellent explainer! Glad you covered the different types of flag - now it's just a case of practice, practice, practice to find out when to use them :)
Very well explained and the video is cinematic. Thanks!
I used to be a figure skater, so using inside and outside edges were a must when skating. I’m happy to see edges are used in climbing too and I can take that knowledge over to climbing
planning on working on some flagging tomorrow. this video is just perfect!
Incredible video man! Keep them coming 🙏🏽
Perfect educational videos. I'm glad I found your channel.
Thanks. Professional and informative, as always
Awesome video, would be great to see a similar video on dropped knees
I have some advice for twisting/dropknees here: ua-cam.com/video/awsnFRWXFps/v-deo.html
thanks a lot dude
great breakdowns, visual aids, and pacing
Always feel like I learn so much from your videos! This was great 👏🏽
Just recently started to take climbing a little more seriously and learning proper technique. Have been struggling with this v2 where the ending is a small bad ledge that I can't seem to statically hold onto with one hand to finish the climb. After watching I think that an inside flag actually might be the solution. Going to try it at the gym tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips, this channel is amazing.
Great video and explanation of flagging. Really appreciate it.
Thanks very much for your teaching on flag technique. It'd be awfully useful for my climbing progress~~ Thank you so much~~
Wow, these videos are absolutely fantastic
I concur with one of the comments. It is the most clear explanation on flag for me. ❤
Very very well explained, thank you!
Understanding how to alternate flag to back flag and out to flag again as part of a pogo has been one of my favorite techniques to minimize time in a sequence of incut downpulls or simply moving through easier terrain efficiently. I often would rather flag in and out than make a foot match.
Maybe an advanced flagging video showing the transition between flags?
Best explanations, thank you.
Awesome video, very clear and well explained.
Stumbling on your videos and realizing that this is my home gym is a crazy thing
Amazing video! Thanks a lot
i love your videos! thank you for the clarity and sharing!
Love all your videos man!
Back flag also helps to transfer weight from hands to foot in some tricky situations, which may be the key to moving a hand to the next hold.
Great vid, Thanks brother!
Really fantastic video. Great content, very comprehensive explanation. I was thinking Neil Gresham before you mentioned him!
Same!
Very inspiring!! Thanks a lot!
About the application: for the beginners to note the position of the next handhold is really helpful to judge which flag to use.
Take Back flag & Inside flag for example, if starting with left hand on the handhold and considering that hold as the centre of a four quadrants, if the next handhold you're aiming for is on the first quadrant, then use Back flag; if it's on the second quadrant, then Inside flag should be better
Love these videos - he explains something, just as your about to rewind to understand better.... “here is a side by side comparison” 😂 fantastic communicator
This video is awesome dude.
Favorite climbing channel👍
You just solved a problem for me! I had a move that was just impossible with opposite hand and foot, and I tried to Dyno it with no success whatsoever... Inside flag made it easy
This is a great series man. You forgot the most important use of the inside flag: for looking super cool
Great video!
I think inside flags are useful to avoid excessive foot swapping when leading, as well as establishing balance to clip in. It's more about fluidity and efficiency. Hence not so common in bouldering.
Ryan Yang interestingly, of the few people I see use inside flags with any frequency, this has predominantly occurred after what I would say is an additional foot swap to get the clipping position. This is only my experience, of course, and when useful optimally I have seen for boulder starts most of the time.
@@Cacovangor I've found on some routes, inside flagging can help to avoid 2 foot swaps on the same hold, which can be crucial if the foothold is tiny and the handholds are hard to hold.
Cathexia D would you say this is highly conditional as to be memorable, common enough to be in your repertoire, or somewhere in between. Also, how would you rate your hip mobility and overall flexibility? I am wondering if this is a body dependent activity or more practiced, such as myself and knee bars where I try to scum my knees against everything and find ways to brace myself everywhere.
@@Cacovangor Whenever I do a climbing session indoors I will end up doing an inside flag at least once, it just helps the flow. My hips and body in general are definitely quite flexible, to the point where some of my muscles have to work harder due to some useless ligaments. I also knee scum when I can. I see myself as a creative climber as opposed to a strong one.
Commenting 4 years after this video being posted to say how good this is
super thank you! 😀
I would suggest a fourth type of flag: hand flagging. It's something I usually do on rope climbing, where I use my hand on the wall in between holds to help balance a move. Think of mantling at it's lightest form.
I haven't seen this used much, nor a proper description for it.
Me yesterday: I really need to work on flagging more; I need to figure out how and when to use it. I bet Movement for Climbers would do an awesome video on that.
Universe: Ask and you shall receive!
:D
Nice vidéo !
I use inside flags a fair bit! I'm fairly short 5'2" with a short wingspan (ape index -1). I find the inside flag is useful when I need to do a reachy move and there's only one decent foot hold lower down. The hip in allows me to maximize my reach, but I can see that a climber with longer reach may make a different beta choice. The local gym that I climb at has a reachy powerful style for route setting and the last move in routes is often far (at least it is for me) and off balance. The inside flag helps me get my second hand up to finish.
Did you get slightly thirsty comments on your videos already? If not: Here we go! EVERYTHING about this video is sexy. Voice, music, visuals, production, style, level & way of explanation. Gives me some good shivers over here.
amazing video
I think this is the best and most helpful climbing technique video I've ever watched. This is just so good. I feel that a lot of climbers get the normal flag down pretty quickly, but the other two you rarely see, not because it's not useful but because climbers tend to power through instead and don't know how and when to use these. I'm super grateful for the insights you've brought here, thank you very much!
I admittedly get a kick out of looking for opportunities to use inside flags. I've had some pretty solid applications of the move, but rarely do I find it any more efficient. Fun nonetheless. And I fully blame Neil Gresham's masterclass.
when I was taught the inside flag it was precisely for a starting position. i feel like I have to use flags a lot even in V0 and V1 problems because I'm too tall for the routesetting here so I often have to use only 1 foothold instead of the 2 that the setters planned
inside flag is handy when the handhold is undercling
I am always reluctant saying ,,always" in regards of climbing movement. When you do rear flag hips are not always square. For example, when we go with left hand to the next hold often it's very helpful to twist left hip towards the wall. Nevertheless very good tutorial.👍
Sometimes the wall is convex and using a backflag doesnt work because your flagging leg cant reach the wall when going around the back of your other leg, since the wall is curving away from you.
But if you flag on the inside, you can more easilly reach the wall with your flagging leg, to stop any barndooring happening.
Movement For Climbers, @1:44, where can we buy a pair of those pants you're wearing?
I just realized something. There 2 types of outside flag, and then the back and inside flags. The difference between the types of outside flags are hip placement to the wall. This is also the difference between inside and back flagging, with back flagging squaring your hips, and inside flagging turning your hips in. This means that there are only really 2 types of flags, one when you have opposite hand and foot, and the other when you have the same side hand and foot.
Could u do a video on Bouldering training like a 3 month programme for my Japan trip
look up hoseok lee's routine. great for beginners/intermediates
This will help my climbing. It’s funny how a micro beta helps me climb so much better.
I'm having some trouble with terminology when watching this last video and comparing with other sources on youtube, does your "flag with hips in" map to "knee drop"/"back stepping"? Or are we talking about different things? How would you define one VS the other?
Trying to reply to myself haha: After looking at a bunch of glossaries and videos, looks like on the knee drop, both feet are supporting weight, while on flagging, the second feet just provides balance, not weight support.
Nice
Silly question, but what pants do you wear? Or does anyone know?
This is probably one of the best videos on flagging. I wish this was around when I first started climbing.
For inside flags, though, I think there are other applications that you're missing out on. One of the best uses of inside flag is saving yourself from having to do additional/redundant outside flags and double foot switches. If you only have one foot and several hand sequences to walk through, a quick stealthy inside flag can get you through the sequence much faster.
For example, let's say on an overhung or steep climb the sequence has you with your right foot (RF) on a foothold and outside flag left foot (LF) and hips in. Then it requires you to switch feet to LF (outside flag RF), and then back again onto your RF (outside flag LF) hips in on all of them. Often times, it's much more efficient and faster to skip the foot switches and use an inside flag instead. So in this example you could place your RF, outside flag LF, swivel on your RF into an inside flag with your LF, and then swivel and unwind back to the outside flag LF, keeping your RF planted the entire time. This saves you energy by skipping 2 foot switches entirely and helps keep weight on your feet consistently.
Thanks for the feedback and info! I agree that reducing foot movements is super crucial. I've actually tried applying inside flags to overhang scenarios like you've described. I need to get more acquainted with the technique because it never feels like something my body intuitively wants to do. My climbing mentor told me that inside flags are more common with European climbers than with American climbers. Seems like that could be the case as I've never seen an American climber ever use an inside flag. Very cool technique though, and I'd love to get better at it.
@@movementforclimbers Absolutely man!! Loving this channel because I am just as analytical as you are with my movement, so it's great to see someone creating content with so much thought and depth.
And as for the inside flag, just like with other niche techniques, it took a long time to start finding them in sequences but when I unlocked it, I started seeing them a lot more often. Nowadays I'll just naturally throw them in and won't notice it until someone mentions it. Funny enough, I'm actually an American climber too so I'm not sure where it came from. Haha. PS. If you ever find yourself in Chicago, drop me a line and we'll sesh some of the gyms out here.
Hopefully someone can answer this.
At about 5:15 he talks about an 'unusable' foot hold. But to my eye, it's totally usable, and a textbook dropknee scenerio... At which point he could match hands without resorting to a deeeeep backflag.
I understand this is a beginner vid, and he isn't covering dropknee, but am I wrong about this? It feels like the drop knee is the better option, but we were searching for a backflag example?
Thanks for any feedback.
Maybe it's also heigh-related? As a taller climber I sometimes find hold-spacing to feel off for me, so I flag a lot. To the point where climbing partners call me out for skipping (supposedly) good footholds
Love the channel, but I'd turn the music down some.
I feel like flagging pumps my arms and fingers more than anything, but I start to use flags more and more as my grip strength increases
what's thd name of this bouldering gym? :)
I struggle with flagging so much, I’m 6’4 so I usually just reach out. When I flag, my hips sag, I get unbalanced it’s awful. Really frustrating
That high pitched "ding dong" sound threw me off, and I thought I left a fridge door open or my car door open outside of something
When would you back flag vs inside flag? It seems both are applicable when your holds are on the same side, no?
Naturally, if the foothold is high, you can just use a back flag.
Just let yor body sink in its natural position and you will see, that the body moves into this back flag position automatically (the alternative would be a barn door).
Keep your holding hand straight and let your body sink.
If the foothold is lower, you may use inside flag or back flag, whatever is more efficient and/or comfortable to use for YOU, depending on the situation of course.
Just watch the Masterclass part 1 Playlist from Neil Gresham:
ua-cam.com/users/Cruxfilmsclimbingplaylists
The parts 5 to 11 are always good to watch from time to time :)
This is a very old dvd, so don't complain about the pre-HD quality ;)
Basically never inside flag. It can always be avoided with a foot switch.
"but sometimes the best foothold is no foothold" 🤯 🤯 🤯 🤯 🤯 🤯 🤯
Whenever I try to explain basic outside flags to a beginner, they are shocked that I want them to stand on just one foot hold and right out refuse to ever try 😅
1:25 OF
3:45 BF
6:00 IF
I’ve been climbing for just about three weeks now. I’ve almost gotten this soft v4 at my gym, and last session I was so close but because it was at the end of session I was tired and could pull myself to the jug above me. I’m now trying to cram all the different techniques and moves that can help me out as fast as I can, because I’ve never had so much fun in my life. Wish I got in to climbing sooner, rather than being 26 when I started, but better late than never.
awesome! can you make a video now on how to watch your videos without having my hands sweating? please and thank you 😝
It seems to me that if you are back flagging and have to pull the move dynamically, that the inside flag may be a potential solution for those climbers that prefer static options.
I’m curious now, going to play with them a bit and see if they have a real place.
Gotta be honest with you second and third flags seem unecessarily flamboyant with little biomechanical advantage. Maybe the examples didn't exhibit their strengths well enough, because you could have reached those holds easily with your enormous reach + well developed upper body strength. This is the 10th climbing video and it really just seems outside and inside flag are flashy moves. Regular flag will solve 99% of bouldering problems. I've tested the latter two flags on simple V0s and my mates just ask me why I'm dancing all over the wall and that i look pretentious. 😥