How To Prep Aftermarket Parts Before Spraying Paint And Test If Strippig To Metal Is Needed
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2012
- Aftermarket parts bring additional concerns when preparing them for paint. If the part is not e-coat or a cheap primer is used, the part must be stripped from metal to metal. Check out the sandpaper Sumight offers on Amazon amzn.to/49aP8Xn In this video, we'll show you a quick solvent test to determine if the part needs to be stripped or not and the sanding steps to get the aftermarket part ready for paint.
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Great video series! I have learned more watching a few of your videos than I did in 3 years of auto body class.
Good stuff Donny, I need to do the lacquer test myself this weekend. Thanks for the vid and all the useful information.
You can use a DA. I have a video demonstrating how to use a DA with 500 grit to prep a panel. I wanted a video demonstrating how to wet sand. You are right, DA sanding is faster, but a lot of people still wet sand as well. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful, thank you!
I just got a hood that has been primed black over the eCoat. The primer comes off with acetone. Melts. The ecoating under it appears not to have been sanded, however. What do I need to do to make sure this hood never ends up having an issue?
Great Vid as usual!
I want to paint my motorcycle matte black/white. The paint currently on the motorcycle is still new and shiny, so should I use a paint remover to remove the original layer and then sand and follow the next steps or could I directly apply primer on the current layer. Your reply would be of great great help. PS. The current colour is black.
Awesome, Thank you
Great info. The acoustics are so bad that your voice is difficult to hear with the echos.
Thank you for you video! I have a couple of questions. I know I have an e-coated panel because I have done the lacquer test. So with that being said, should I paint the panel with epoxy primer anyway? Or just use self-etch primer, then base coat and clear coat? Also, after using epoxy primer, can I spray base coat on top of that? Or should we always spray base coat on top of self-etched primer? Thanks for your help, God bless you.
You can spray epoxy as sealer or primer sealer over the sanded e-coat. Once flashed the recommended time, then you can spray your base coat over the primer. If you are using epoxy as a sealer, you will not need etch primer.
when a person gets new E-coated metal parts would it be ok to wash the e-coated parts with soap and water and use wax grease remover scuff panels with 400 to 500 grit sand paper and use wax grease remover to get the e-coated parts ready for panting?
You said if the aftermarket did not pass the thinner test it would have to be stripped. What would that process Intel.
A DA and maybe 80 grit?. Your feed back would be appreciated.
The e-coat is very thin and will sand off fast. I would probably use 220 to 320 to remove the coating. Then you can apply epoxy primer or self etch primer, paint and clear.
Where do you get the water sprayer used? I cant find them anywhere. Thanks
Oreily auto parts by the wiper section
Ok, so One starts wet sanding with 400 grit and then move to scuffing pad? what Grit? and thanks for the video,ok.
hey I used paint thinner instead of lacquer thinner. does it prove the primer just as good or is there a difference?
Paint reducer should work too. Unless you are talking about mineral spirits...it may not lift the primer.
Nope. Not mineral spirits, just paint thinner. Thank you.
So seen this fender was good after sanding it like u did do u need to prim it before painting it or can u just paint it the way it is after sanding it?
It is best to apply primer sealer before applying base coat. However, you don't have to sand primer sealer.
fastest way to strip it if it is cheap?
Are you not going to spray light white guide coat to see if there are any small " transit " dints????
Bright
IMO , always sand the edges last. That way, you have less of a chance of burning through on the edge sanding the rest of the panel.
To Mario Aguilar -Red pad like 600 grit grey like 1000 you have no need to go bare metal on a new body part absolutely none doing so is time wasted also your "spray on" primers are not as good as the Electroplated coat so removing it is stupid . reality is even Scuffing with grey scotch brute is probably enough extra bite for paint prep ...I bet grey scotchbrite is enough extrad bite ...after all it's enough for clear coat stuffing ...and most e coat is ready for paint without stuffing it's just extra insurance.
Any body part bought to.replace a body part new either from the dealer or parts wholesaler should be tested the same b/c the aftermarket companies that sell parts are usually the OEM supplier of the same parts only difference is the dealership charges $600 for a $100 fender , so if you don't trust Tong Yang's E coat don't trust the. one from the dealership either .
Why not just da it 400 and red scotch beige instead wasting ur time wit the grey one and just seal it
Good video, but man the acoustics are really bad. I had to go back twice to hear what grit paper to use. If you could make a change to the sound quality you'd go from a good video to a great video. Thanks from a sub.
I like the videos also. But why are they out of focus? Even the HD ones have the lower quality like 480 or even 360p.
***** All that I can figure is that the combination of the reflective walls of their garage along with an inexpensive or outdated camera are to blame. What I don't understand is why would one go to all of the trouble to produce instructional videos if the camera equipment is less than desirable? To me it's kind of like using a worn out mule to pull your new plow tractor. It's not worth the effort.
Well, this was in 2012 before HD was really in vogue.
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Don't sand with your hand! Use a soft pad at least