Interesting development. I'm a scale model builder, so I'm always on the lookout for finer resolutions for stuff like panel gaps or fine details like mesh patterns. Have a Photon mono, but that machine's resolution density still leaves a lot to be desired.
That's a great improvement over the D1, but DLP with a fixed focal length and no zoning is kinda of only half the fun. The real deal with industrial DLP is ability to focus only on a specific area of the plate (and therefore increase the "resolution" locally). This implementation is a glorified UV masking, which is good, but cold be significantly better with a firmware/slicer custom rework.
i'm not familiar with the technology, what would that entail? if i understand your sentence properly, does it mean that if the cross section of the printed object is smaller, the cure time would also be lower also?
@@aronseptianto8142 Cure times are not resolution-dependent. Light projectors don't have a uniform pixel density across the entire projection area. At the center of the screen there will be more projected pixel per cm^2, and the density will diminish as you get closer to the borders. On DLP printers this means that unlike LCD, the screen is not uniform, and prints placed at the center will effectively differ from the ones at the corners. This sometimes reflects on the print quality. But since we're using lenses to project the light beam on a wider surface, we can also use them to concentrate on a smaller area. Effectively, with DLP, you can use the full 1920x1080 pixels just to cure a very small miniature cros-section. Or simply use the full area and inevitably distort the edges, like the D2.
@@matteoparenti741 It's a Good concept but a variable throw distance/focal length is not practical, especially for a consumer grade machine. I'm speaking from experience here. I have a DLP machine that allows for two throw lengths. One setting for printing at 41 micron, the other at 25. To change between these resolutions both the throw distance and projector lens need to be changed. Each resolution has to be calibrated for as well. Even if it were possible to get around distance & lens changes a variable focal length would still require constant exposure adjustments. I prefer a fixed throw/focus, but I would like to see a higher resolution projector used.
I haven’t used it yet, but I bought the D2 about 2 days ago…it was Zack over at Void Star Lab that planted the seed in my head. I’ve never resin printed yet and will get slicing soon enough. I’m sure I’ll be adding one or more printers to my collection since I have a few non resin printers already.
I hope they work on putting out a mid-sized DLP printer. It would be great, if they could put out something with a 10 inch plate (and keep the quality).
Get a set of metal artist pallet knifes, they are way better at removing prints. They are nearly razor sharp so it's easier getting under prints to remove and the various shapes are really helpful.
That’s quite an amazing machine! Such detail!! 20,000 hours of projector life it insane. Even at $650+ it’s sounds like a bargain when you estimate the cost of replacing LCD screens and having extra vats on hand.
Except when you factor in the likelihood of upgrading your machine in a few years. Even on a 2000 hour rated screen you can print 8 hours a day, every day for 3 years and only need to change the screen 3 times. I suspect not all screens perform perfectly and you may have an odd dud that fails earlier, so say 4 screen changes at $50 and you are still nowhere near the cost of this printer. After 3 years technology will have moved on and you are probably looking at upgrade time anyway... wasting a lot of the extra DLP lifespan. But on the whole quality control and potential for failure, I wonder what the implications and cost is of a hardware failure on a DLP, those mirror arrays don't look like they'd come cheap... if you can even get parts to resolve a failure? Not sure I see how you won't still want extra vats on hand in case of a print fail and vat clean.
@@the_omg3242 reliability of DMD done in 1998 and follow up paper in 2003 suggests 3e12 mirror cycles for the equivalent of 120k operating hours. www.ti.com/pdfs/dlpdmd/153_Reliability_paper.pdf
@@the_omg3242 20k is actually probably being a bit conservative. DLP technology is actually very mature and well-understood at this point, and most modern chips are rated to over 100,000 operating hours. There's no additional degradation due to UV light either because the 405nm light used to cure consumer-grade photopolymers isn't actually UV-- it's just purple light toward the far end of the visible spectrum that borders UV. Furthermore, UV doesn't become damaging until much shorter wavelengths. Even the black lights people use in clubs/parties/halloween/etc. have a shorter wavelength than what we have in these printers. So there's really no concern about general reliability here.
@@Dark0Storm Well that does kind of depend what models you are comparing right? The D2 vs the M3 premium is really not a big price hike, so if you are in the market for a premium Resin printer with high detail printing well that does drive the cost up quite a bit regardless if you are taking MSLA or DLP. The only real difference in pricing I know seems to be that the build plate is relatively smaller and that you can't give up on some detail and get a better price in return. DLP only has high performance high price. MSLA can be had much cheaper with less detailed printing. Upgrade-Interval does depend quite heavily on the Usecase. If you are doing it as a hobby and you have a lot of cash sure. But in this economy I don't know replacing a perfectly fine machine seems a bit excessive to me but then again I am only on my first FDM Printer and still see potential to improve it before upgrading to another. So not sure I would agree that Upgrade times are something static but much more dependent on the individual user and usecase.
I have the D1 and I'm still very happy with it and would love to get the d2, but they hinted a bigger dlp printer might be coming, so I guess I wait for that 😊
@MemerHunJani I got a Saturn 2 and the Anycubic D1, but I would recommend going for a bigger one, since I found that with the D1 I often can't fit bigger prints. I have no experience with the printers you mentioned so can't give advice on any of those. I do love the Saturn 2, solid prints. Hope someone elsr can help you on the others.
I hope we will see future dlp printers with a larger buildplate. Tbh, I don't need more than 50 microns resolution but I want to printer things which would exceed this platform
Hi. Are there any settings that control the print quality in this printer? So that the print is smooth. I bought this and it prints worse than my old first photon. There are visible lines in the printout. Can you help me ? Is anti-alias responsible for this? in the photon workshop settings?
would be interested to hear your thoughts on how this would hold up compared to the 'Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K 3D Printer' with level of detail and print crispness for miniature printing as its main usage.
I have a dental printer, bought a few years ago and uses DLP…build size is the same, but it cost $15,000, resin is $150/L and vats (which “expire” after 1L of use and won’t work anymore) cost $110…if this thing is even close to as accurate and fast I’ll buy 3
I would be interested in getting one for product prototyping, mould making, jewellery and functional end use products. I only ever see minis though - and maybe some jewellery to be "lost wax" cast. I'd also be interested in combining different resins to create new material properties - like adding some TPU like resin to an ABS like resin to create a semi flexible. Have you tried any of this? Is it possible to get functional stuff? Screw lids, working print in place hinges etc?
I have a flex additive for standard resin that gives it a rubber like feel. The more you add the more rubbery it is. I use a white base then add tint to get other colors.
Printer looks fantastic! Prints look amazing. The Yousu resin printed great! Shining light under the prints in that resin makes them look epic and have slightly different colour from different angles!
The biggest problem with resin printing is the mess that is around, the need to have basically a dedicated and aired room for printing because of toxic nature of it. I would like to have it, but I live in apartment and there is not enough space to work properly. Also, how you deal with all the liquid residue that you can not throw in the sink. Where do you dispose that?
One could put the liquid residue in a large container like a transparent plastic box, so the liquid is not too deep. Then leave the box, open , in the sun outside - the volatile stuff evaporates (for example, alcohol) and the resin cures in the sun. One is left with non-toxic cured piece of dry resin that can be disposed of in the usual manner.
The D2 build plate and volume are almost as small as that cute little Prusa SL1(s). Prusa SL1(S): Print volume size 127×80×150 mm Price: €1,635.54 Anycubic D2: Print volume size 131 x 73 x 165 mm $579
Very interested in DLP technology in 3D printing, but the build size on this is just way too small, less than 3" in depth. If they had DLP in something closer to the build volume of a Photon M3 Max, then that would be worth considering.
Nobody is talking about the drawbacks of these printers? With a fixed lens, the resolution depends on the size of the object. The bigger the object, the lesser the resolution. The long life of the projector is great, but the development of normal LCD printers keeps improving so fast and they are getting cheaper and cheaper. For the price of one DLP printer, you can buy a LCD printer now and buy an improved LCD printer later.
It kind of depends on Taxas intruments, they are the one producing Micro DPL's. So if Anycubic have a great success with this tech, other barnds will follow. Pehaps then there will be a marked big enough and worth while for TI so make something dedicated for consumer printers. IF it is a TI chip they use, it cost about 50USD, they do offer a 4K DLP, but thats 350 bucks. so dont ecpt to see a 4K DLP before that is way under 100 USD. So it will be a at least a year or 2
i paint miniatures and want to get my first resin printer but want to spend a little less then this what machine would you pick for good miniatures if you had to choose your fist one. thanks if you could give any help
The thing I dislike about the vat (which is just the regular photon mono vat from the look of it) is that it doesn't have feet for putting it down, and presumably uses Anycubic's proprietary FEP/Frame all-in-one pieces... which only give you the option of regular fep rather than some kind of upgraded version. For this price I'd want a vat the latest features which seem to be becoming a new standard.
I’m pretty new to 3d printing, I’ve use a “traditional” 3d printer a few times (like once or twice) and I’m interested in getting a resign one but there’s a few things I don’t understand that I’d love help with! For one, with resign printers, what do you do with the left over resign, do you put it back in the bottle, or just leave it for the next time, or what. Also, how strong are these prints? Are they similar to normal 3d prints in strength? Additionally, what software would you recommend for modeling? I use onshape quite a bit and I have access to solid works but I’m not as familiar, and I will not have access to my sw license in like 6 months
well we put resin back in the bottle after printing the hardness depends on the resin you use basically we dont use them for printing toys type things we use these printers for jewellery wax models and i use martrix 9 for designing 3d models
Resin is more detailed, less rough. if you're into Tabletop games that use miniatures and some terrain... mini's are often best printed with resin, terrain (larger pieces) are often printed with filament.
@@Lizard008 in short, I'm buying one for my nieces and nephews(5 of them 10 and under) but mainly because they all love crafts, but to also, since they are on screens all day, get them into cad and cam
@@josephfriedrich9792 given the age... I'd steer clear of resin for now. You can do real nice things with filament printers. PLA is easy to work with, a whole bunch cheaper, and not toxic. Also, the clean up process of resin can be pretty messy.
@@Lizard008 The actual chemical's, resin was the concern of mine. I will say though the oldest 1, 10, does have her experience in rebuilding carburetors and tearing apart engines with me… they know all about personal protective equipment, But like you said with their age I kind of was feeling bad about it and trying to get them directed away from engines and gas and oils at this time. Even though they love to tinker with engines and gas and oils hahaha. Price i'm not too concerned about, And clean up... i thank the years of every combination of slime imaginable, has prepared me(kidding)
It's a great machine, but the only problem with D2 is that the plate is small compared to anycubic X mono. My question here is, is there anycubic machine that can produce the same quality as a D2 but with a larger plate? You help will be much appreciate it. Thank you
I'm super interested with getting this printer since I'm just now getting into resin printing and it DLP printers look like they can crank out some super detailed prints. I do have one question/concern though. So the projector or screen, as they say, has a lifespan of 20,000 hours, but I want to know what is the lifespan of the micro mirror array? Is it shorter than the projector? If so how would it be replaced and for how much? Mono lcd printers are good because they have just the one screen that can be replaced easily for varying prices as stated in the video. Anycubic's webpage doesn't state anything about it, so I guess they don't see it as a problem and it may very well not be! I don't know anything about them. Since those mirrors are moving parts, though, wouldn't there be a cause for concern for wear and then an eventual need for replacement?
They say 20000h but actually the DMD is rated for 10000h (only). However it is only running ~2seconds per layer - which gives you ~900m of cured material at 0.05mm layers. Still plenty enough ;)
man i have 2k dollar the 2019 Phrozen shuffle resin printer i got for free from my cousin's husband who's a dentist and he didn't need this one anymore. And it just sits there because i cant draw to paint miniatures and i don't know what to print. I mainly print other parts for 3d printers and resin printers aren't good for that. I sit daily and try to think of what t o print and i'm mad because i cant come up with anything and the printer sits unused.
I don't see any real apple to apple comparison with DLP and MSLA, the only thing here is advertisement. If you compare these technologies, you will see there are no noticeable improvements in quality compared to the MSLA, you can check different videos on UA-cam to find out that, the only benefits are parasite light and display lifespan
From my own testing a quality 8k printer that's dialed in actually produces better prints then dlp since you can get an even smaller more detailed layer if you're willing to spend more time printing. The biggest difference imo is the long term cost of maintenance of a dlp vs msla with DLP being cheaper. If you're not doing professional prints for painting competitions and just selling models then having a lower long term cost for replacing parts is probably more important. But that's just my own personal limited experience with them and at the rate that consumer 3d printers are improving and changing at it's hard to tell.
You're also forgetting that the D2 uses less electricity, runs cooler, and is quieter because of the lack of a cooling fan. These things may not matter to most but they're still differences.
the print area is way too small. I've got the OG photon and printed tonnes of stuff over the years on it. Even huge things in parts. I wouldn't recommend a print volume that small in 2023. I'm looking forward to the 4k version with a build area at least 50% bigger.
How are micromirrors somehow eliminating light bleed? Mirrors don't change the physics behind how light bounces off and around things or how focussed light tends to spread. This sounds like a lot of marketing talk with very little knowledge of the physics involved.
The mirrors that aren’t supposed to reflect light for a specific image layer simply won’t reflect light towards the vat. While with msla an lcd screen has to block the light that is always being sent towards it.
Jesus people if your prints are sticking to much your base level exposure is to high. Learn to print. You shouldn't need a wham bam on this size printer. I have never had a print not pop off pretty easy if you have your settings right. A wham bam just hides poor settings
Call me when resin stops being toxic and curing and cleaning not a ton of work. Yeah, never. I've had a resin printer. It does make nice minis, but it's also too much work to own. Better let someone else print for you.
Congratulations on the video. I am a goldsmith and jeweler and having a small business I cannot afford printers like Solidscape or 3D Systems that use another technology called DOD (Drop on Demand). Now I'm about to buy a Phrozen mini 8k, which in the field of "low" cost LCDs is unbeatable with its 22 microns. But I'd like to know if the D2 is capable of the same print quality. I've seen VOGMAN's videos about use in jewelry but these aren't the videos I'm looking for. Jewelry with skulls or similar rings in my part (Italy) are unsaleable. Most of the rings that are sold by me and all over the world are classic / solitaire, trilogy, eternity rings etc. So I'm more interested in knowing, for example, if I wanted to print an eternity with half-point stones, it would be able to create the hole where the stone rests and the through hole to let the light filter through.
@@glitchinthematrix9306 Hi unfortunately not. However, I bought a Phrozen sonic mini 8K with a kilo of 8k resin and 2 PFA films for €493.00 on the Phrozen website on Black Friday. On facebook there are many jewelry groups with users who have the Phrozen, so from this point of view too I preferred the Mini 8K. Should there be some problem I have a better chance to find the solution, compared to the D2 which is new and not many users are still confident about the dlp technology.
I don't get this. From what I found D2 has just 2k resolution. The biggest problem with my Anycubic mono 2k is the resolution because I get voxel lines on my print. D2 must have the same issue with the same resolution.
You have mad skills, your reviews are spot on, are you interest doing videos for a 3d printer store ? If you are I can send you my email address for more information
Interesting development.
I'm a scale model builder, so I'm always on the lookout for finer resolutions for stuff like panel gaps or fine details like mesh patterns.
Have a Photon mono, but that machine's resolution density still leaves a lot to be desired.
That's a great improvement over the D1, but DLP with a fixed focal length and no zoning is kinda of only half the fun. The real deal with industrial DLP is ability to focus only on a specific area of the plate (and therefore increase the "resolution" locally). This implementation is a glorified UV masking, which is good, but cold be significantly better with a firmware/slicer custom rework.
i'm not familiar with the technology, what would that entail?
if i understand your sentence properly, does it mean that if the cross section of the printed object is smaller, the cure time would also be lower also?
@@aronseptianto8142 Cure times are not resolution-dependent. Light projectors don't have a uniform pixel density across the entire projection area. At the center of the screen there will be more projected pixel per cm^2, and the density will diminish as you get closer to the borders. On DLP printers this means that unlike LCD, the screen is not uniform, and prints placed at the center will effectively differ from the ones at the corners. This sometimes reflects on the print quality. But since we're using lenses to project the light beam on a wider surface, we can also use them to concentrate on a smaller area. Effectively, with DLP, you can use the full 1920x1080 pixels just to cure a very small miniature cros-section. Or simply use the full area and inevitably distort the edges, like the D2.
@@matteoparenti741 ah, i thought you meant having a zoom lense to concentrate the light into smaller area
@@matteoparenti741 It's a Good concept but a variable throw distance/focal length is not practical, especially for a consumer grade machine. I'm speaking from experience here. I have a DLP machine that allows for two throw lengths. One setting for printing at 41 micron, the other at 25. To change between these resolutions both the throw distance and projector lens need to be changed. Each resolution has to be calibrated for as well. Even if it were possible to get around distance & lens changes a variable focal length would still require constant exposure adjustments.
I prefer a fixed throw/focus, but I would like to see a higher resolution projector used.
I have yet to find an application that requires higher resolution. At some point stuff gets mechanically unstable
I haven’t used it yet, but I bought the D2 about 2 days ago…it was Zack over at Void Star Lab that planted the seed in my head. I’ve never resin printed yet and will get slicing soon enough. I’m sure I’ll be adding one or more printers to my collection since I have a few non resin printers already.
I have seen a lot of merch on youtube and id have to say yours is some of the coolest I have seen.
Thank you very much 🙏. In a past life I wanted to have a clothing company so I definitely enjoy working on the design ideas.
If you want more temperature control in a garage putting the printer in a small grow tent with a terrarium heat pad works really well.
Very exciting tech. I'm very happy with my Anycubic 4K right now but this definitely looks like the way we'll see future printers going.
I hope they work on putting out a mid-sized DLP printer. It would be great, if they could put out something with a 10 inch plate (and keep the quality).
D2 came out not long after the Ultra and you will have other companies competing soon. Exciting times.
@@petercallison5765 I will have Elegoo Mars 4 on hand in the next 3 weeks :D
Hi... Between anycubic D2 and elegoo saturn 2, which prints more accurate?
For adhesion problems, get a magnetic flex plate and you'll never scrape again.
I love Yousu filament, have an order of their tri-color silk coming in tomorrow.
Selina is great, I'm guessing she was your contact.
Get a set of metal artist pallet knifes, they are way better at removing prints. They are nearly razor sharp so it's easier getting under prints to remove and the various shapes are really helpful.
That’s quite an amazing machine! Such detail!! 20,000 hours of projector life it insane. Even at $650+ it’s sounds like a bargain when you estimate the cost of replacing LCD screens and having extra vats on hand.
Except when you factor in the likelihood of upgrading your machine in a few years. Even on a 2000 hour rated screen you can print 8 hours a day, every day for 3 years and only need to change the screen 3 times. I suspect not all screens perform perfectly and you may have an odd dud that fails earlier, so say 4 screen changes at $50 and you are still nowhere near the cost of this printer. After 3 years technology will have moved on and you are probably looking at upgrade time anyway... wasting a lot of the extra DLP lifespan.
But on the whole quality control and potential for failure, I wonder what the implications and cost is of a hardware failure on a DLP, those mirror arrays don't look like they'd come cheap... if you can even get parts to resolve a failure?
Not sure I see how you won't still want extra vats on hand in case of a print fail and vat clean.
They say 20,000 hours, but isn't a DLP thousands of tiny little moving parts? That seems like it might be it's own problem.
@@the_omg3242 reliability of DMD done in 1998 and follow up paper in 2003 suggests 3e12 mirror cycles for the equivalent of 120k operating hours. www.ti.com/pdfs/dlpdmd/153_Reliability_paper.pdf
@@the_omg3242 20k is actually probably being a bit conservative. DLP technology is actually very mature and well-understood at this point, and most modern chips are rated to over 100,000 operating hours. There's no additional degradation due to UV light either because the 405nm light used to cure consumer-grade photopolymers isn't actually UV-- it's just purple light toward the far end of the visible spectrum that borders UV. Furthermore, UV doesn't become damaging until much shorter wavelengths. Even the black lights people use in clubs/parties/halloween/etc. have a shorter wavelength than what we have in these printers. So there's really no concern about general reliability here.
@@Dark0Storm Well that does kind of depend what models you are comparing right? The D2 vs the M3 premium is really not a big price hike, so if you are in the market for a premium Resin printer with high detail printing well that does drive the cost up quite a bit regardless if you are taking MSLA or DLP. The only real difference in pricing I know seems to be that the build plate is relatively smaller and that you can't give up on some detail and get a better price in return. DLP only has high performance high price. MSLA can be had much cheaper with less detailed printing. Upgrade-Interval does depend quite heavily on the Usecase. If you are doing it as a hobby and you have a lot of cash sure. But in this economy I don't know replacing a perfectly fine machine seems a bit excessive to me but then again I am only on my first FDM Printer and still see potential to improve it before upgrading to another. So not sure I would agree that Upgrade times are something static but much more dependent on the individual user and usecase.
all these resin printers coming out really gets me wanting one
Definitely excited for the future of resin printers.
I have the D1 and I'm still very happy with it and would love to get the d2, but they hinted a bigger dlp printer might be coming, so I guess I wait for that 😊
There is ALWAYS something better coming.
@@petercallison5765 that is definitely true! Still haven't made up my mind to maybe get the saturn2 for big prints 😅
hey i am stuck between these 3 printers
anycubic m3 premium
phrozen mini 8k
d2 dlp
which one would you recommend me to buy?
@MemerHunJani I got a Saturn 2 and the Anycubic D1, but I would recommend going for a bigger one, since I found that with the D1 I often can't fit bigger prints. I have no experience with the printers you mentioned so can't give advice on any of those. I do love the Saturn 2, solid prints.
Hope someone elsr can help you on the others.
Worth noting that DLP printers generally also use a bunch less power :D
I hope we will see future dlp printers with a larger buildplate. Tbh, I don't need more than 50 microns resolution but I want to printer things which would exceed this platform
Hi. Are there any settings that control the print quality in this printer? So that the print is smooth. I bought this and it prints worse than my old first photon. There are visible lines in the printout. Can you help me ? Is anti-alias responsible for this? in the photon workshop settings?
would be interested to hear your thoughts on how this would hold up compared to the 'Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K 3D Printer' with level of detail and print crispness for miniature printing as its main usage.
Looks awesome, I had a photon mono x 6k for a little while but ending up selling it. Love the detail but hate the mess involved with the process
I have a dental printer, bought a few years ago and uses DLP…build size is the same, but it cost $15,000, resin is $150/L and vats (which “expire” after 1L of use and won’t work anymore) cost $110…if this thing is even close to as accurate and fast I’ll buy 3
which printer did you buy ? asiga ?
I would be interested in getting one for product prototyping, mould making, jewellery and functional end use products. I only ever see minis though - and maybe some jewellery to be "lost wax" cast. I'd also be interested in combining different resins to create new material properties - like adding some TPU like resin to an ABS like resin to create a semi flexible. Have you tried any of this? Is it possible to get functional stuff? Screw lids, working print in place hinges etc?
I have a flex additive for standard resin that gives it a rubber like feel. The more you add the more rubbery it is. I use a white base then add tint to get other colors.
Printer looks fantastic! Prints look amazing. The Yousu resin printed great! Shining light under the prints in that resin makes them look epic and have slightly different colour from different angles!
The biggest problem with resin printing is the mess that is around, the need to have basically a dedicated and aired room for printing because of toxic nature of it.
I would like to have it, but I live in apartment and there is not enough space to work properly.
Also, how you deal with all the liquid residue that you can not throw in the sink. Where do you dispose that?
One could put the liquid residue in a large container like a transparent plastic box, so the liquid is not too deep.
Then leave the box, open , in the sun outside - the volatile stuff evaporates (for example, alcohol) and the resin cures in the sun. One is left with non-toxic cured piece of dry resin that can be disposed of in the usual manner.
Thank you!
Love the new plastic vats on my upgraded Prusa SL1(S) farm…reducing un-sprung weight and increasing cornering speeds😎
The D2 build plate and volume are almost as small as that cute little Prusa SL1(s).
Prusa SL1(S):
Print volume size 127×80×150 mm
Price: €1,635.54
Anycubic D2:
Print volume size 131 x 73 x 165 mm
$579
Very interested in DLP technology in 3D printing, but the build size on this is just way too small, less than 3" in depth.
If they had DLP in something closer to the build volume of a Photon M3 Max, then that would be worth considering.
Does it leave 0.05 mm gap between 2 walls ? Or it fills up the gap ?
Nobody is talking about the drawbacks of these printers? With a fixed lens, the resolution depends on the size of the object. The bigger the object, the lesser the resolution. The long life of the projector is great, but the development of normal LCD printers keeps improving so fast and they are getting cheaper and cheaper. For the price of one DLP printer, you can buy a LCD printer now and buy an improved LCD printer later.
what about anti-aliasing? if it's a binary kind of deal you lose any possibility to smooth some areas using tones of gray
Good question, did you find an answer?
@@petercallison5765 they say it supports 16 tones of gray, would be nice if someone with an actual printer made a test.
how does it compare to the Sonic Mini 8K, I am torn between the two.
Im waiting on a medium size or large size version of this. That's when I'll buy one tbh
It kind of depends on Taxas intruments, they are the one producing Micro DPL's. So if Anycubic have a great success with this tech, other barnds will follow. Pehaps then there will be a marked big enough and worth while for TI so make something dedicated for consumer printers. IF it is a TI chip they use, it cost about 50USD, they do offer a 4K DLP, but thats 350 bucks. so dont ecpt to see a 4K DLP before that is way under 100 USD. So it will be a at least a year or 2
Does that mean with the less light bleed it has a higher dimensional accuracy than standard resin printers?
That's the question no one is answering...
Question Do you need a Wash and Cure Station with this ? im told you need one for after printing ?
Man, I wish other competitors will come out with their DLP printers as well lol.
i paint miniatures and want to get my first resin printer but want to spend a little less then this what machine would you pick for good miniatures if you had to choose your fist one. thanks if you could give any help
The thing I dislike about the vat (which is just the regular photon mono vat from the look of it) is that it doesn't have feet for putting it down, and presumably uses Anycubic's proprietary FEP/Frame all-in-one pieces... which only give you the option of regular fep rather than some kind of upgraded version. For this price I'd want a vat the latest features which seem to be becoming a new standard.
print a holder to set it on a surface.
I’m pretty new to 3d printing, I’ve use a “traditional” 3d printer a few times (like once or twice) and I’m interested in getting a resign one but there’s a few things I don’t understand that I’d love help with! For one, with resign printers, what do you do with the left over resign, do you put it back in the bottle, or just leave it for the next time, or what. Also, how strong are these prints? Are they similar to normal 3d prints in strength? Additionally, what software would you recommend for modeling? I use onshape quite a bit and I have access to solid works but I’m not as familiar, and I will not have access to my sw license in like 6 months
well
we put resin back in the bottle after printing
the hardness depends on the resin you use
basically we dont use them for printing toys type things we use these printers for jewellery wax models and i use martrix 9 for designing 3d models
What are the benefits to resin > filament?
Resin is more detailed, less rough.
if you're into Tabletop games that use miniatures and some terrain... mini's are often best printed with resin, terrain (larger pieces) are often printed with filament.
@@Lizard008 in short, I'm buying one for my nieces and nephews(5 of them 10 and under) but mainly because they all love crafts, but to also, since they are on screens all day, get them into cad and cam
@@josephfriedrich9792 given the age... I'd steer clear of resin for now. You can do real nice things with filament printers. PLA is easy to work with, a whole bunch cheaper, and not toxic. Also, the clean up process of resin can be pretty messy.
@@Lizard008 The actual chemical's, resin was the concern of mine. I will say though the oldest 1, 10, does have her experience in rebuilding carburetors and tearing apart engines with me… they know all about personal protective equipment, But like you said with their age I kind of was feeling bad about it and trying to get them directed away from engines and gas and oils at this time. Even though they love to tinker with engines and gas and oils hahaha.
Price i'm not too concerned about, And clean up... i thank the years of every combination of slime imaginable, has prepared me(kidding)
I wonder if a good HDR OLED would be closer to DLP than LCD
WIth DLP resin you still wash with alcohol and cure with UV light?
yeah the dlp printers use projetors for printing the normal sla lcd printers use lcd for printing there is no more difference between them
It's a great machine, but the only problem with D2 is that the plate is small compared to anycubic X mono.
My question here is, is there anycubic machine that can produce the same quality as a D2 but with a larger plate?
You help will be much appreciate it.
Thank you
No there isn't but something like the 8k M3 premium is close enough for most people.
I wonder how those dual color prints would look with a lacquer dip
do you think d2 is better then 3m premium? about quality, xy resolution
Is the accuracy do compared to 8k 3D printing?
Still have never plugged my resin printer in.
Maybe next year lol
I’ll wait for DLP printers to make a few leaps. This doesn’t seem too expensive to drop 400$
I'm super interested with getting this printer since I'm just now getting into resin printing and it DLP printers look like they can crank out some super detailed prints. I do have one question/concern though. So the projector or screen, as they say, has a lifespan of 20,000 hours, but I want to know what is the lifespan of the micro mirror array? Is it shorter than the projector? If so how would it be replaced and for how much? Mono lcd printers are good because they have just the one screen that can be replaced easily for varying prices as stated in the video. Anycubic's webpage doesn't state anything about it, so I guess they don't see it as a problem and it may very well not be! I don't know anything about them. Since those mirrors are moving parts, though, wouldn't there be a cause for concern for wear and then an eventual need for replacement?
They say 20000h but actually the DMD is rated for 10000h (only). However it is only running ~2seconds per layer - which gives you ~900m of cured material at 0.05mm layers. Still plenty enough ;)
I may pick up the D3 if the size is right.
I would say a D2 plus is more likely
Any word if Anycubic are planning a MAX version?
Does DLP resin have advantages in non-DLP resin printer?
You can shove the plate in the freezer to remove stubborn prints.
Would DLP also work with water based resin?
The Yousu dual colour resin in this video are water washable resin
Like how you spend time (months) assessing a printer before giving your opinion, thanks.
If they keep improving and make the resin less dangerous they will have a great product.
Comparison with 8k printer?
man i have 2k dollar the 2019 Phrozen shuffle resin printer i got for free from my cousin's husband who's a dentist and he didn't need this one anymore. And it just sits there because i cant draw to paint miniatures and i don't know what to print. I mainly print other parts for 3d printers and resin printers aren't good for that. I sit daily and try to think of what t o print and i'm mad because i cant come up with anything and the printer sits unused.
Articulated prints are lots of fun for kids.
I'll give you $100 for it, provided it's in good condition.
As that technology evolves for 3d printing, you will see that price come down.
What happens when the projector wears out?
By the time that happens there will be multiple generations of newer printers available and this one will be outdated.
@@Rustmonger I get to buy new toys???
I don't see any real apple to apple comparison with DLP and MSLA, the only thing here is advertisement. If you compare these technologies, you will see there are no noticeable improvements in quality compared to the MSLA, you can check different videos on UA-cam to find out that, the only benefits are parasite light and display lifespan
From my own testing a quality 8k printer that's dialed in actually produces better prints then dlp since you can get an even smaller more detailed layer if you're willing to spend more time printing. The biggest difference imo is the long term cost of maintenance of a dlp vs msla with DLP being cheaper. If you're not doing professional prints for painting competitions and just selling models then having a lower long term cost for replacing parts is probably more important. But that's just my own personal limited experience with them and at the rate that consumer 3d printers are improving and changing at it's hard to tell.
You're also forgetting that the D2 uses less electricity, runs cooler, and is quieter because of the lack of a cooling fan.
These things may not matter to most but they're still differences.
Anycubic jacked the MSRP on Amazon today up to $829, then put it up for a "lightning sale" for $659 and claimed it was 20% off. Jackasses.
And now it's $699
pretty much every single online "sale" is like this.
ok 20000 hours projector life, what about the micro mirror mechanism. how long can those little things keep wiggling until they start failing
Well done!
The fact it only needs 15W to run is amazing.
Sweet
Oh Goshh!! Nero 3D???
Standard resin is already pushing the price tolerance.
all the same now, becoming bored with resin 3d printers, they need to find a way to do full colour, idc how much it costs.
the print area is way too small. I've got the OG photon and printed tonnes of stuff over the years on it. Even huge things in parts. I wouldn't recommend a print volume that small in 2023.
I'm looking forward to the 4k version with a build area at least 50% bigger.
This would be perfect if it had an air purifier.
Better technology for a higher price.
How are micromirrors somehow eliminating light bleed? Mirrors don't change the physics behind how light bounces off and around things or how focussed light tends to spread. This sounds like a lot of marketing talk with very little knowledge of the physics involved.
The mirrors that aren’t supposed to reflect light for a specific image layer simply won’t reflect light towards the vat. While with msla an lcd screen has to block the light that is always being sent towards it.
They don’t eliminate it they simply don’t angle themselves to bounce it. 👍
DLP is the future, not Anycubic
5:33 - Lee-chee
This one in M3 Max size
DLP chips burn out, pixel by pixel. Which makes the prints not come out good. The same goes for projectors.
That does not work.
Jesus people if your prints are sticking to much your base level exposure is to high. Learn to print. You shouldn't need a wham bam on this size printer. I have never had a print not pop off pretty easy if you have your settings right. A wham bam just hides poor settings
Call me when resin stops being toxic and curing and cleaning not a ton of work.
Yeah, never.
I've had a resin printer. It does make nice minis, but it's also too much work to own. Better let someone else print for you.
Congratulations on the video. I am a goldsmith and jeweler and having a small business I cannot afford printers like Solidscape or 3D Systems that use another technology called DOD (Drop on Demand).
Now I'm about to buy a Phrozen mini 8k, which in the field of "low" cost LCDs is unbeatable with its 22 microns.
But I'd like to know if the D2 is capable of the same print quality. I've seen VOGMAN's videos about use in jewelry but these aren't the videos I'm looking for. Jewelry with skulls or similar rings in my part (Italy) are unsaleable. Most of the rings that are sold by me and all over the world are classic / solitaire, trilogy, eternity rings etc. So I'm more interested in knowing, for example, if I wanted to print an eternity with half-point stones, it would be able to create the hole where the stone rests and the through hole to let the light filter through.
Did you manage to get more info? Im in the same boat.
Btw vog is releasing new video tommorow about d2
@@glitchinthematrix9306 Hi unfortunately not. However, I bought a Phrozen sonic mini 8K with a kilo of 8k resin and 2 PFA films for €493.00 on the Phrozen website on Black Friday. On facebook there are many jewelry groups with users who have the Phrozen, so from this point of view too I preferred the Mini 8K.
Should there be some problem I have a better chance to find the solution, compared to the D2 which is new and not many users are still confident about the dlp technology.
@@marcoc.1646 Sounds great. Maybe you can name some of those groups so i will have a look. Thanks for your input
I don't get this. From what I found D2 has just 2k resolution. The biggest problem with my Anycubic mono 2k is the resolution because I get voxel lines on my print. D2 must have the same issue with the same resolution.
The clarity bump from eliminating light bleed as a factor more than makes up for the middling resolution of the projector.
as a Anycubic owner i can tell this Vat is poop.
Please dude. Say it with me "More Crisp" "More Criiiiisp" It's painful to hear you keep saying "it's crisper"
Hey, this company sent me their product for free and will send me free things in the future. Prepare for my "honest" review....
You have mad skills, your reviews are spot on, are you interest doing videos for a 3d printer store ? If you are I can send you my email address for more information