This is a perfect example of too many features making the printer less "useable". My OG Mono X is still kicking out top quality parts with no hoops to jump thru or bells to get ringing.
Exactly. I stuck a flex bed on my Mono X and it's everything I ever dreamed an SLA printer could be. Is it perfect? No. But does it do a bloody good job for the price and pump out minis that beat even store-bought options? You better believe it.
I have a M3 Plus. I agree a lot with your review. It is a rigid machine that prints well if I just use the barebone machine. The print speed is about 1/2 to 2/3 of a SL1S with proper profiles sliced on Lychee, which is acceptable to me given how expensive a SL1S is. All the gimmicks such as cloud functionality, camera, and auto refill are completely unnecessary. Otherwise it works well for me. And the wash and cure plus machine is great for its price point.
I also own an M3 Plus, and this mirrors my experience. It's a Mono X 6K with some tacked on features for around the same price. I never even set up the auto-fill system. And, even though I have the camera recognized, the app handles it so badly, I can't use it. (That whole app would do well with a rewrite.) I will also say that the default way most profiles for Lychee slicer sets the lift speeds is backwards for the pull up, and can cause layer times to go very slow. I still get nothing near the 100mm/hr, but I have been able to get things to be quick enough for my needs (maybe 1/3rd to 1/4 that speed).
@@gzfelix Thanks. I've been dialing in my own Elegoo profiles. The lifting speeds I was getting from the ones in the Lychee repository had the two speed levels backwards so that the speeds as the plate goes down were slow where they should be fast and vice versa.
If you had to take back the m3 plus, what other machine would you have bought? I'm in the market for a fast high res large resin printer, and I don't like the prospect of this m3plus I was about to buy.
I feel like too many flawed products get good reviews when their legitimate issues are dismissed because reviewers were sent "pre-production" models (if that's even true). I only just came across your channel, but the fact that you waited to give us a more realistic review immediately made me subscribe.
I use a funnel for pouring resin out of the vats back into the bottles. Collapsible silicone funnels are especially handy to use here because they basically eliminate clean up - just leave it out in the sun for a couple of minutes after use then slip the sun-cured resin out of it and into a bin.
@@vampcaff not really, it only happens when I need to change to a different resin. I really should invest in multiple resin vats and dust covers but I haven't got a round tuit yet.
Anycubic, you need to give this dude an M3 MAX. He's the only one that's going to give you 100% honest feedback. Additionally, I've been asking why these manufacturers have been stuffing all of the electronics under the screen this entire time. I've had to repair so many machines where the resin managed to completely obliterate the electronics inside due to a FEP puncture.
Any device that requires a cloud connection to perform its basic function is instantly a paper weight when the company behind it inevitably goes bankrupt or decides that it's time for you to upgrade. That alone is a no-buy in my book, if nothing else then purely for environmental reasons.
As an owner of an M3 Plus, it works like any other SLA printer for most things. You load up a file on a USB and load it in through the printer's LCD. The web stuff for this printer is completely unnecessary (and also doesn't work/works badly/needs revisions). Since the current version of their web application only works directly through their slicer, it's pretty-much a non-feature. I use Lychee, so I'm only using the USB to print. The app doesn't even know when the printer is printing beyond the printer being "busy", so you cannot even turn the camera on to monitor a "normal" print. Everything that's normal about the printer is fine, but the extra features are less so.
@@JLProPhoto that's good to know, I use Formware since it has a perpetual license instead of the unreasonably expensive subscription. Good to know that the workflow is the same as with my Mono X 6K
Hi, I own the M3 Max and I think you see it a little bit too pessimistic. First only the Plus has the cloud and cam Features. In the beginning I was sad why the Max didnt has them but now I'm fine. I didn't use the refill system as well. My printer works very nice and I love the fep film. The prints stick well, yes, but I can reduce the bottom layer time and it works well. I didnt find it fair to destroy the machine because your first print has gone wrong. I has the same Problem with my Mono X and I think it can happen sometimes. And I think anycubic isn't the first company which is a little bit optimistic with the print times :) And I can strongly recommend to use the screen protector. On the Max it was pre installed. So I think you would not turn into an AC Fanboy anymore.. But I wantet to say that I'm totally fine with my Max. I like your other Videos but I think this was a little bit too hard. Maybe you give the M3 a second Chance when they send you a new screen :)
Great video. I had two M3 Plus printers and they are pretty solid. For the autofill, I never had it fill too much as it was pretty much spot on, also, just turn off the auto fill during the print if you feel like changing out the resin at some point. The Online portion works, but you have several hoops to jump through and I didn't like having to use PWS to use it. I can understand why, but meh, just use Chitubox / Lychee at this point. The camera was never in stock so I can't comment on that. Phrozen Resin bottles work with the autofill system as well, fyi. Honestly, I had the resin dialed in very well that I only ever used the plastic spatula to pop prints off pretty easily, almost never used the metal one. Pretty solid printers, but yah, some features weren't thought out as good as they could have been, but everything does work at least haha.
These large printers make sense to print a lot of small stuff at once, which saves a lot of time. Also, in my case, more often than not, I print stuff that would not fit in a smaller printer laying flat. Vertical height adds time, the flatter the better
The screen might not be totally ruined. You should be able to soak it with 90% IPA for a couple hours and then scrape the resin off with a plastic scraper. I've had to do that on my Phrozen a few times.
I'm thinking with this particular style of build plate, printing directly to plate is probably no longer a great idea...making us have to raise our models on supports. In a way though that's a good practice as it means the model is cured evenly...when printing directly to plate you'll eventually get some bending as the rest of the model cures as the first few layers are always exposed more than the rest. Either way, definitely something that requires learning new techniques to overcome I'd think.
What would be really great is if one of these places invested in designing an alcohol filtering solution. Disposable 1um filter, teflon gear pump, closed loop system. Something that I can leave running overnight to refresh my alcohol. Seems like the idea is right there, waiting for someone to do it. Beyond that ... I really REALLY cannot believe that they have not re-engineered the top deck of these machines to be purpose-built for screen protection. Fragile FEPs are just a reality of resin printing.
4:26 That sucks but I have fixed screens after this happens. It takes a long time but with IPA and very careful picking at it with a razor blade you can clean it off with little or no damage.
Still trying to figure out how he made such a big mess of the screen? Its hard to do but is possible if you have no experience in operating a resin printer.
Mono 4K is a great entry level, the Mono X 6K is also a nice upgrade to that. I don't buy into claims of printers making 100MM+ per hour, it only can print at that speed at the lower quality nm levels, and that's good for prototyping etc, but not finished products. Yes, this is also an example of too many features in one printer.
Great video! I repair 3d printers that are bought on Amazon liquidation pallet lots. Working on one now with all sorts of bugs. The first issue and you touched on it was the CN already being registered. I emailed Anycubic Customer support and within a day they deleted the prior owners registration of this machine so I was then able to register it. This is very important as you mentioned and unbeknownst to me I learn to speak Chinese in less than 48 hours. After 3-4 emails for other parts I needed the reply's were all in Chinese. Cheers!
The automatic resin filler is way too complex of a system. A nightmare in itself judging from your assessment. This is a solution to a virtually non existing problem. A peristaltic pump would have been a better choice of resin delivery. Flow rate can be controlled by motor speed, which in turn, can be calculated by the print volume of the model. Switching resin would also be much simpler.
The original Mono X wasn't shipped with a screen protector and having the same issue with the FEP hole, you find that out the hard way, cost almost 200€ to replace the screen since it isn't covered by warranty and they changed the shipped screens which required an adapter board which took 3 months to get
I print with PETG eSUN and have great results WHEN I can get it to stick to the build plate. 230 C on glass build plate at 70 C. Using a 2 trees Sapphire Plus Core XY. I try and print multiples in the one run however usually the first will stick really well and then the base layer lifts on the rest. I use glues stick when I get really frustrated and its a hit and miss affair. All this has got me looking at Resin Printers and eSuns HARD TOUGH resin. This is purely to get bulk prints done reliably
Good review Tom. What resin printers really neat is an auto wash cycle when finished. I bought my Saturn with the intention of making one but ... Round tuits !
I have had mine for a few weeks now and it works great as just the bare bones machine. I personally have not tried the cloud or the auto feed because it seems too gimmicky, and I don't really want to clean it.
your sentence "scan your girl friend" and then just that puppet with no arms just had me braking into laughing xD holy that got my really unexpected xD
I cant agree with you on that, especially since you basically made the review after one testprint... . The laser etched platform surface is really handy on the M3 max i recently started using to reduce the bottom layer exposure. sure thick parts will be hard to remove anyways, but i assume you just didnt calibrate you print profile. and anyone who doesn use a funnel to pour back the resin really shouldnt point to the manufacurers poor pour spout design ;) and in regards of the print time: did you try turning off the "exposure off compensation" ? its kind of a extra light off delay feature that roughly triples the print time by adding waiting time according to the cross section of you sliced image (eg +50s on bottom layers on a full platform)
dumping the resin with a stick across the corner for it to wick to would help with that pouring. I forget what the term is for that, but I often use that method with anything that just don't pour well.
Nice review! Can't say I'm too surprised given Anycubics other machines I've tried, which is a real shame. There's decent stainless steel funnels with removeable mesh filters for when you need to drain back into the bottle next time you get a printer with an awful spout which spills everywhere (MonoX did the same to me).
Wow, I have the same exact setup, and routinely have had my resin leak through the FEP multiple times, so far ruining 2 lcd screens. I am now on my third replacement. pretty unhappy with the leakage...
I have a Mono X, which has the same amount of builds as the M3 Plus, and I really need the auto-feed feature, otherwise, I'd be constantly worried if the print failed, and I'm positive about this feature. I've had incidents with punctured release films, but once I got familiar with the slicing process, cleaned the machine properly, and made sure the resin used was filtered, the problem stopped. The slicing software is what I have criticized, I would rather go with chitubox. Cloud monitoring and cloud start printing are features that I would like to see mature in the cloud technology, because this will ensure that printing is not messy, and I don't have to go to the studio to start printing, saving valuable commuting and operating time, I hope that the way the cloud is implemented can grasp the user's most necessary needs, less fancy features. I believe that they can do it, depending on their sales strategy.
My Anycubic photon mono x came with the z-endstop screw lose. When i done the first homing, the endstop fail , broke , and the z bumper of the z stteper motor broke.I know that because i replaced, print a new z endstop and ..its working ok
having a mono x, and im happy with it, even with the issues it has. What i like is the ability to use Lychee + UV Tools, which converts them into a very powerful software / Hardware combination
Do you have a video talking more about the camera upgrade? I browsed through your videos but didn't see anything that specific. Thanks either way for the information.
I'm not even through the video yet but the "scan your girlfriend" while looking at the mannequin joke was probably my favorite quick-cut joke you've ever made.
I cannot stress how you should not print something with a large surface area right on the print surface on a resin printer. There's a reason why rafts are mandatory on printers like form labs
The reason why Formlabs uses a raft as default is because they have poor control over the first layer. Their machines have no means to adjust the bed, so they print the first layer extra thick to make sure it sticks. They also let you turn off rafts as an advanced option.
@@MadeWithLayers you should not print directly on the build surface, because it needs bottom layer compensation and forces the holes you have to use on a hollow print to be on the side. In addition the bottom surface might get damaged in the print removal process. If all of this is not an issue, go a head
I've been a long-time fan of all things Anycubic, having owned several of their printers. I look at their machines and I see good designs suffering under the cruel dictates of making money. I buy an Anycubic, I buy the designers vision, not the collection of poorly fitting parts I know is coming...[insert shock-faced emoji]
I had the same hole in my FEP screen almost out of the box. I've had nothing but problems and they don't have new parts to replace the FEP screens. I've been using their suggested Anycubic Craftsman resin also and have had only a few successful prints out of dozens of attempts. I haven't been able to create an account at all on the Anycubic website or app. Mine didn't come with a camera, either.
Gently strokes his *Formlabs **_Form³_* SLA 3D Printer _"Whose an overpriced Good Boy who just works and doesn't make me have to deal with this kid of BS? That's right! You!"_ 🥰
Meh... to be fair it is usually said to not print parts directly upon the plate for printing, and to use supports. That makes for better removal. I was just thinking about this printer as I am starting to get orders for specific statues. I believe most of your reasons to be worth noting. Why pay for fancy stuff that has no practical use? I want to be able to do work in one piece or have fun upscaling. Do you have another recommendation for something with this volume? I am not looking to print 100 mm an hour. That doesn't even seem logical. Just big volume that prints well. I was looking at this one FIRST because I have had awesome experience with the Photon Mono X. I had one bad print because I did not properly support it. My fault. I guess this is not worth it. I appreciate the heads up man.
I never understand why every video keeps saying that a big machine is made for big parts and those who make small parts are useless. I work with 3D printing and I have an LD-002H, with a large machine I increase my production by 300 to 400%! In medium parts I double my production, I only make small things that are no more than 10mm in height and the difference in having a large machine is huge.
Was seriously considering this printer until watching this review... wonder how this compares to the Elegoo Saturn 2? Only real thing I don't like about the Elegoo is I believe it uses a leadscrew.
The Nova3d printers are on their own system too. No one seems to talk about them. they are a pretty small player, but I've been very impressed with their printers. I've had an Elfin and Elfin 2 SE. reliable and with all the right toys. Full wifi connectivity and glass tops on the screens, you can clean resin off with a razor blade. I can run the printers from my desktop. not just monitor the prints. I had a Mono X for a while...and it was just awful. The screen was taped down, and the screen is not protected from any leaking resin. mind bogglingly stupid, unless they are trying to make money on replacement parts. The machine never worked for me, repair parts didn't fix it. Took 3 months of swearing for them to admit the machine was borked and ship it back to them. AnyCubic is gonna have to put out miracles to get off my shit list.
Same exact thing happened to my original Mono X when I got it; the resin ripped the FEP film and destroyed the screen only 3 prints in. Made me turn away from resin printing completely.
My problem with the M3 series is: they wasted resources for a refilling system, no one asked for and didn't add glass screen protector or a ball screw. I hate these acme lead screws and their anti backlash nuts
Great video! Got a couple resin printers and can't wait to get them going. You know, I'd like to see your thoughts on buying vs building a wash and cure setup.
is the use of the camera and cloud required, i see the camera covered in resin so that unuseable and the cloud i don't see the point of using considering the parts don't remove themselves
You may be able to use plastic blades to scrape the exposed resin from the screen. I was able to do so with my Phrozen sonic mini after a similar situation.
Yeah I wouldn't say it's ruined at all, I've used a razer blade (non plastic) on my photon many times with no issues, it's got glass on top just be careful.
@@Nikmal saturn 2 with the new technology of projecting light that can achieve higher details and less deformation and that no other printer has.. that saturn? I wonder which resin printer is good in your book
I just got the M3 MAX and I am so disappointed with the speed. Something that should have taken 30 minutes to print ended up taking over 3 hours. Hopefully a firmware update will fix that.
You just saved me from buying this printer. If I want a wireless camera I'll just fix a wireless camera myself on another model. I'll stick with the standard m3 for now till they sort this out
I agree that the PEI sheet gives a nice texture. But do any of you find it also reduces some detail? I have a Halot-One (2K mono LCD) and I find that it's detail is the same or sometimes better than the M3 Plus (6K mono LCD). Maybe I'm missing something. Again, most models look detailed equally, but on those calibration prints the PEI "texture" seems to be the reason some details are a little less visible on the M3 than on the Halot-One. Am I missing something or crazy?
I would really like to see anycubic sell upgrades to their older printers as stand alone items rather than re-releasing the same printers with marginal upgrades
What happens if you use a 3D printer inside at vacuum chamber would it affect the 3D print in anyway could it make it stronger I feel like it would suck the air out of the filament and make the filament more dense
I'm starting to get the feeling that the best way into Resin printing is to buy the cheapest big brand printer that fits yours size needs. It's not going to last too long with all the spills or broken FEPs.
@J I don't underestimate it at all! I literally work with AI / machine learning and camera tech everyday. We sell AI camera systems for object detection / safety systems on mobile equipment. Our base level systems run on a raspberry pi with a coral TPU accelerator. We had a working prototype detecting people / heavy equipment within a couple months of R&D back in 2019.
I will be honest I would skip out on Anycubic produtcs cause I have had nothing but issues with them. Yes they offer products at a cheap price but in my oppion they are not very good quality products. My first printer from them was the Kossel linear plus where I had missing parts that I had to source myself and a month later had to get a new PSU cause the original burnt out. Afterwards I had to constaly maintain and upgrade it to get ok parts out of it. Then I git the Mono X which works ok at best but the wash an cure station from them completely broke have only useing four times in 3 months. It might just be that I have bad luck with their products but I wont buy anither product from them after this.
Looks like it is style of Anycubic, starting from their FDM i3 Mega - good ideas, sloppy implementation. But all this forced cloud features elevate problem on next level
yeah it's not perfect but that advertised fast print speed is what i run mine at, works well. i just use chitubox and ignore pretty much everything else. Also literally just tune the settings, parts stick and pop off easily at 25sec cure time for 1st layer. Also print small stuff on a "large" printer is so you can do a bunch at once.....
That’s exactly how you should use your printers. Know the limitations, maybe fix some, but use them and if they are of use, it was a good buy. If it’s not trash in reviews, it’s probably fine enough. That being said, I’m not going the cheap way anymore, a bit of quality simply costs money. Anyway, use them, ignore whatever opinion others have, it does make a hobby more fun. :)
That autofill system is ridiculously over-engineered and will very probably be a major point of failure. Elegoo did it right with the Jupiter's gravity-fed refill system.
![Anycubic Photon D2 DLP 3d resin printer [HONEST REVIEW]](/img/n.gif)
Today, Tom made 'scanning a pile of rocks' into a kink. "If you're into that."
Yeah, just after a scan of his "girlfriend" posing with no arms or legs on a table.
@@freescape08 Are you saying there's something wrong with that?
First
Based
lol
Ninja moves
Cheating 8-)
This is a perfect example of too many features making the printer less "useable". My OG Mono X is still kicking out top quality parts with no hoops to jump thru or bells to get ringing.
I have a Mono X too, and tbh it just works and works and works, only issues are on the user (me) side! An absolute beast.
They forgot to learn from printrbot 🤦♂️
I'm very happy with my Mono X 6K as well, right before they released the BMW *ahem* Anycubic M3 series
Exactly. I stuck a flex bed on my Mono X and it's everything I ever dreamed an SLA printer could be.
Is it perfect? No. But does it do a bloody good job for the price and pump out minis that beat even store-bought options? You better believe it.
My M3 Max works great... flawless and easy to use.
Of course, I didn't fail to properly setup my gear like this guy.
I have a M3 Plus. I agree a lot with your review. It is a rigid machine that prints well if I just use the barebone machine. The print speed is about 1/2 to 2/3 of a SL1S with proper profiles sliced on Lychee, which is acceptable to me given how expensive a SL1S is. All the gimmicks such as cloud functionality, camera, and auto refill are completely unnecessary. Otherwise it works well for me.
And the wash and cure plus machine is great for its price point.
I also own an M3 Plus, and this mirrors my experience. It's a Mono X 6K with some tacked on features for around the same price. I never even set up the auto-fill system. And, even though I have the camera recognized, the app handles it so badly, I can't use it. (That whole app would do well with a rewrite.)
I will also say that the default way most profiles for Lychee slicer sets the lift speeds is backwards for the pull up, and can cause layer times to go very slow. I still get nothing near the 100mm/hr, but I have been able to get things to be quick enough for my needs (maybe 1/3rd to 1/4 that speed).
@@JLProPhoto Siraya tech has some great profiles per printer for Lychee on its website. I just use them. :)
@@gzfelix Thanks. I've been dialing in my own Elegoo profiles.
The lifting speeds I was getting from the ones in the Lychee repository had the two speed levels backwards so that the speeds as the plate goes down were slow where they should be fast and vice versa.
If you had to take back the m3 plus, what other machine would you have bought? I'm in the market for a fast high res large resin printer, and I don't like the prospect of this m3plus I was about to buy.
@@mynt4033 I was choosing between the M3 Plus and the Prusa SL1S. The price difference and build volume pushed me to the M3.
I feel like too many flawed products get good reviews when their legitimate issues are dismissed because reviewers were sent "pre-production" models (if that's even true). I only just came across your channel, but the fact that you waited to give us a more realistic review immediately made me subscribe.
I use a funnel for pouring resin out of the vats back into the bottles.
Collapsible silicone funnels are especially handy to use here because they basically eliminate clean up - just leave it out in the sun for a couple of minutes after use then slip the sun-cured resin out of it and into a bin.
could you imagine using your machine so little that you need to put the resin back in the bottle....
@@vampcaff not really, it only happens when I need to change to a different resin. I really should invest in multiple resin vats and dust covers but I haven't got a round tuit yet.
Anycubic, you need to give this dude an M3 MAX. He's the only one that's going to give you 100% honest feedback. Additionally, I've been asking why these manufacturers have been stuffing all of the electronics under the screen this entire time. I've had to repair so many machines where the resin managed to completely obliterate the electronics inside due to a FEP puncture.
should probably be more careful removing stuck parts from you FEP...
Any device that requires a cloud connection to perform its basic function is instantly a paper weight when the company behind it inevitably goes bankrupt or decides that it's time for you to upgrade. That alone is a no-buy in my book, if nothing else then purely for environmental reasons.
It can actually print without the cloud ::sigh::
As an owner of an M3 Plus, it works like any other SLA printer for most things. You load up a file on a USB and load it in through the printer's LCD. The web stuff for this printer is completely unnecessary (and also doesn't work/works badly/needs revisions).
Since the current version of their web application only works directly through their slicer, it's pretty-much a non-feature. I use Lychee, so I'm only using the USB to print. The app doesn't even know when the printer is printing beyond the printer being "busy", so you cannot even turn the camera on to monitor a "normal" print.
Everything that's normal about the printer is fine, but the extra features are less so.
@@JLProPhoto that's good to know, I use Formware since it has a perpetual license instead of the unreasonably expensive subscription. Good to know that the workflow is the same as with my Mono X 6K
This is what I truly hate about the cloud. If the internet goes away, all of your stuff goes away too.
TLDNW, or what ? The cloud service is a add on and not needed for normal printing.
Hi, I own the M3 Max and I think you see it a little bit too pessimistic.
First only the Plus has the cloud and cam Features. In the beginning I was sad why the Max didnt has them but now I'm fine.
I didn't use the refill system as well.
My printer works very nice and I love the fep film.
The prints stick well, yes, but I can reduce the bottom layer time and it works well.
I didnt find it fair to destroy the machine because your first print has gone wrong.
I has the same Problem with my Mono X and I think it can happen sometimes.
And I think anycubic isn't the first company which is a little bit optimistic with the print times :)
And I can strongly recommend to use the screen protector.
On the Max it was pre installed.
So I think you would not turn into an AC Fanboy anymore.. But I wantet to say that I'm totally fine with my Max.
I like your other Videos but I think this was a little bit too hard.
Maybe you give the M3 a second Chance when they send you a new screen :)
Great video. I had two M3 Plus printers and they are pretty solid. For the autofill, I never had it fill too much as it was pretty much spot on, also, just turn off the auto fill during the print if you feel like changing out the resin at some point. The Online portion works, but you have several hoops to jump through and I didn't like having to use PWS to use it. I can understand why, but meh, just use Chitubox / Lychee at this point. The camera was never in stock so I can't comment on that.
Phrozen Resin bottles work with the autofill system as well, fyi. Honestly, I had the resin dialed in very well that I only ever used the plastic spatula to pop prints off pretty easily, almost never used the metal one. Pretty solid printers, but yah, some features weren't thought out as good as they could have been, but everything does work at least haha.
Your matte wall and backlighting is very pleasing along with the focus depth on your camera.
Or design and print a cap adapter to adapt different cap styles.
These large printers make sense to print a lot of small stuff at once, which saves a lot of time. Also, in my case, more often than not, I print stuff that would not fit in a smaller printer laying flat. Vertical height adds time, the flatter the better
The screen might not be totally ruined. You should be able to soak it with 90% IPA for a couple hours and then scrape the resin off with a plastic scraper. I've had to do that on my Phrozen a few times.
I'm thinking with this particular style of build plate, printing directly to plate is probably no longer a great idea...making us have to raise our models on supports. In a way though that's a good practice as it means the model is cured evenly...when printing directly to plate you'll eventually get some bending as the rest of the model cures as the first few layers are always exposed more than the rest. Either way, definitely something that requires learning new techniques to overcome I'd think.
What would be really great is if one of these places invested in designing an alcohol filtering solution.
Disposable 1um filter, teflon gear pump, closed loop system. Something that I can leave running overnight to refresh my alcohol.
Seems like the idea is right there, waiting for someone to do it.
Beyond that ... I really REALLY cannot believe that they have not re-engineered the top deck of these machines to be purpose-built for screen protection.
Fragile FEPs are just a reality of resin printing.
Any new podcast episodes in the work? Missing my fix of Tom and Stephen talking about random things for a couple hours haha
A new episode is coming soon, sorry, there were some delays.
This is a great review!
Far too many other "reviews" on YT are just advertisements.
4:26 That sucks but I have fixed screens after this happens. It takes a long time but with IPA and very careful picking at it with a razor blade you can clean it off with little or no damage.
Still trying to figure out how he made such a big mess of the screen? Its hard to do but is possible if you have no experience in operating a resin printer.
Mono 4K is a great entry level, the Mono X 6K is also a nice upgrade to that. I don't buy into claims of printers making 100MM+ per hour, it only can print at that speed at the lower quality nm levels, and that's good for prototyping etc, but not finished products. Yes, this is also an example of too many features in one printer.
Great video! I repair 3d printers that are bought on Amazon liquidation pallet lots. Working on one now with all sorts of bugs. The first issue and you touched on it was the CN already being registered. I emailed Anycubic Customer support and within a day they deleted the prior owners registration of this machine so I was then able to register it. This is very important as you mentioned and unbeknownst to me I learn to speak Chinese in less than 48 hours. After 3-4 emails for other parts I needed the reply's were all in Chinese. Cheers!
The automatic resin filler is way too complex of a system. A nightmare in itself judging from your assessment. This is a solution to a virtually non existing problem. A peristaltic pump would have been a better choice of resin delivery. Flow rate can be controlled by motor speed, which in turn, can be calculated by the print volume of the model. Switching resin would also be much simpler.
The original Mono X wasn't shipped with a screen protector and having the same issue with the FEP hole, you find that out the hard way, cost almost 200€ to replace the screen since it isn't covered by warranty and they changed the shipped screens which required an adapter board which took 3 months to get
How often do you want to change the title? Tom: YES!
Thanks for doing an honest review that is honestly even fair to the product.
I thnik your videos reached now very proffesional level compared to the past
I print with PETG eSUN and have great results WHEN I can get it to stick to the build plate. 230 C on glass build plate at 70 C. Using a 2 trees Sapphire Plus Core XY. I try and print multiples in the one run however usually the first will stick really well and then the base layer lifts on the rest. I use glues stick when I get really frustrated and its a hit and miss affair.
All this has got me looking at Resin Printers and eSuns HARD TOUGH resin. This is purely to get bulk prints done reliably
Dear Thomas, the sponsor section is nice and colorful and in the video you are quite sparkling. That's a nice video. Thank you
Good review Tom. What resin printers really neat is an auto wash cycle when finished. I bought my Saturn with the intention of making one but ... Round tuits !
I have had mine for a few weeks now and it works great as just the bare bones machine. I personally have not tried the cloud or the auto feed because it seems too gimmicky, and I don't really want to clean it.
your sentence "scan your girl friend" and then just that puppet with no arms just had me braking into laughing xD holy that got my really unexpected xD
I cant agree with you on that, especially since you basically made the review after one testprint... . The laser etched platform surface is really handy on the M3 max i recently started using to reduce the bottom layer exposure. sure thick parts will be hard to remove anyways, but i assume you just didnt calibrate you print profile. and anyone who doesn use a funnel to pour back the resin really shouldnt point to the manufacurers poor pour spout design ;) and in regards of the print time: did you try turning off the "exposure off compensation" ? its kind of a extra light off delay feature that roughly triples the print time by adding waiting time according to the cross section of you sliced image (eg +50s on bottom layers on a full platform)
I imagined Thomas prints himself with scanned model, but no haha
Hey Tom interesting sponsor! I'll check it out, using for getting projects in to CAD as you showed looks super useful 👍
dumping the resin with a stick across the corner for it to wick to would help with that pouring. I forget what the term is for that, but I often use that method with anything that just don't pour well.
After the print has finished reverse the pump and have it suck all the resin back into the bottle.
So we're not going to talk about the ball screw or the linear rail
Nice review! Can't say I'm too surprised given Anycubics other machines I've tried, which is a real shame. There's decent stainless steel funnels with removeable mesh filters for when you need to drain back into the bottle next time you get a printer with an awful spout which spills everywhere (MonoX did the same to me).
Wow, I have the same exact setup, and routinely have had my resin leak through the FEP multiple times, so far ruining 2 lcd screens. I am now on my third replacement. pretty unhappy with the leakage...
I have a Mono X, which has the same amount of builds as the M3 Plus, and I really need the auto-feed feature, otherwise, I'd be constantly worried if the print failed, and I'm positive about this feature. I've had incidents with punctured release films, but once I got familiar with the slicing process, cleaned the machine properly, and made sure the resin used was filtered, the problem stopped. The slicing software is what I have criticized, I would rather go with chitubox. Cloud monitoring and cloud start printing are features that I would like to see mature in the cloud technology, because this will ensure that printing is not messy, and I don't have to go to the studio to start printing, saving valuable commuting and operating time, I hope that the way the cloud is implemented can grasp the user's most necessary needs, less fancy features. I believe that they can do it, depending on their sales strategy.
My Anycubic photon mono x came with the z-endstop screw lose. When i done the first homing, the endstop fail , broke , and the z bumper of the z stteper motor broke.I know that because i replaced, print a new z endstop and ..its working ok
having a mono x, and im happy with it, even with the issues it has. What i like is the ability to use Lychee + UV Tools, which converts them into a very powerful software / Hardware combination
Do you have a video talking more about the camera upgrade? I browsed through your videos but didn't see anything that specific. Thanks either way for the information.
Thomas Gave Anycubic A Severe And Much Deserved Peeling. I Wouldn't Touch This Printer With A Ten Foot Banana Peel.
How did you manage to pierce the FEP in the first print...?
I'm not even through the video yet but the "scan your girlfriend" while looking at the mannequin joke was probably my favorite quick-cut joke you've ever made.
*does have arms. - Powered by a dual-core ARM-cortex M7.
Great review and a cool sponsor ;) thank you
Once I purchased a Geetech remote module and it used the cloud and never worked, so it met mister sledge!
I cannot stress how you should not print something with a large surface area right on the print surface on a resin printer. There's a reason why rafts are mandatory on printers like form labs
The reason why Formlabs uses a raft as default is because they have poor control over the first layer. Their machines have no means to adjust the bed, so they print the first layer extra thick to make sure it sticks.
They also let you turn off rafts as an advanced option.
@@MadeWithLayers you should not print directly on the build surface, because it needs bottom layer compensation and forces the holes you have to use on a hollow print to be on the side.
In addition the bottom surface might get damaged in the print removal process.
If all of this is not an issue, go a head
I've been a long-time fan of all things Anycubic, having owned several of their printers.
I look at their machines and I see good designs suffering under the cruel dictates of making money.
I buy an Anycubic, I buy the designers vision, not the collection of poorly fitting parts I know is coming...[insert shock-faced emoji]
I had the same hole in my FEP screen almost out of the box. I've had nothing but problems and they don't have new parts to replace the FEP screens. I've been using their suggested Anycubic Craftsman resin also and have had only a few successful prints out of dozens of attempts. I haven't been able to create an account at all on the Anycubic website or app. Mine didn't come with a camera, either.
Gently strokes his *Formlabs **_Form³_* SLA 3D Printer _"Whose an overpriced Good Boy who just works and doesn't make me have to deal with this kid of BS? That's right! You!"_ 🥰
Thank you very much for this preview! After half the video i know i would'nt by this one.
Meh... to be fair it is usually said to not print parts directly upon the plate for printing, and to use supports. That makes for better removal. I was just thinking about this printer as I am starting to get orders for specific statues. I believe most of your reasons to be worth noting. Why pay for fancy stuff that has no practical use? I want to be able to do work in one piece or have fun upscaling. Do you have another recommendation for something with this volume? I am not looking to print 100 mm an hour. That doesn't even seem logical. Just big volume that prints well.
I was looking at this one FIRST because I have had awesome experience with the Photon Mono X. I had one bad print because I did not properly support it. My fault. I guess this is not worth it. I appreciate the heads up man.
that could literally be the catch phrase for anycubic. "great idea, sloppy execution, anycubic"
I never understand why every video keeps saying that a big machine is made for big parts and those who make small parts are useless.
I work with 3D printing and I have an LD-002H, with a large machine I increase my production by 300 to 400%! In medium parts I double my production, I only make small things that are no more than 10mm in height and the difference in having a large machine is huge.
I got resin all on my screen it was pretty bad. I was able to use 91 percent alcohol and rag to get it up😅
That's awesome you caught it before it cured, I assume you weren't running the machine at the time?
10:00 honestly that could be funny for a bit, it’d be interesting to see what a random stranger tries to print (as long as they aren’t trolling you)
Best part of the video is the polycam app
Thomas, such a helpful & super video! thanks so much, as always! best regards.
just thought i would see if there is any update on this printer? if they have addressed any of the issues that you have brought up
I love the fact you are honest with these reviews. Hope you get ahold of the Saturn 3 to check that out.
Was seriously considering this printer until watching this review... wonder how this compares to the Elegoo Saturn 2? Only real thing I don't like about the Elegoo is I believe it uses a leadscrew.
The Nova3d printers are on their own system too. No one seems to talk about them. they are a pretty small player, but I've been very impressed with their printers. I've had an Elfin and Elfin 2 SE. reliable and with all the right toys. Full wifi connectivity and glass tops on the screens, you can clean resin off with a razor blade. I can run the printers from my desktop. not just monitor the prints.
I had a Mono X for a while...and it was just awful. The screen was taped down, and the screen is not protected from any leaking resin. mind bogglingly stupid, unless they are trying to make money on replacement parts. The machine never worked for me, repair parts didn't fix it. Took 3 months of swearing for them to admit the machine was borked and ship it back to them. AnyCubic is gonna have to put out miracles to get off my shit list.
Great to see this review. My old photon OG is going strong but perhaps I can go for a Mono Series photon if I want to upgrade
Same exact thing happened to my original Mono X when I got it; the resin ripped the FEP film and destroyed the screen only 3 prints in. Made me turn away from resin printing completely.
My problem with the M3 series is: they wasted resources for a refilling system, no one asked for and didn't add glass screen protector or a ball screw. I hate these acme lead screws and their anti backlash nuts
Great video! Got a couple resin printers and can't wait to get them going. You know, I'd like to see your thoughts on buying vs building a wash and cure setup.
my guy you bought multiple machines and didnt spend the little extra on a wash and cure?
The M3 Max doesn't have any other connectivity than the USB. The screen protector is pre-installed.
i bought the photon m3 premium but i cant find any video how to find the cn code. I know where it is but it's not showing like this video.
What about a paperclip on the bath sensor prong to reduce the distance and hopefully make it trigger sooner?
Work in Progress. Call it a homebrew.
is the use of the camera and cloud required, i see the camera covered in resin so that unuseable and the cloud i don't see the point of using considering the parts don't remove themselves
I bought one a month ago, tried 3 resins 3 slicers and over 20 failed prints. this is my 4th printer so I kinda know i am not doing anything wrong
You may be able to use plastic blades to scrape the exposed resin from the screen. I was able to do so with my Phrozen sonic mini after a similar situation.
Yeah I wouldn't say it's ruined at all, I've used a razer blade (non plastic) on my photon many times with no issues, it's got glass on top just be careful.
Has any of this been fixed? If not, what printer of this size would you recommend?
You should try new saturn
Its an upgrade to any cookie cut resin printer
That is gold comedy there. The saturn is junk
@@Nikmal saturn 2 with the new technology of projecting light that can achieve higher details and less deformation and that no other printer has.. that saturn?
I wonder which resin printer is good in your book
@@Nikmal I've literally ran my business for years on saturns, they work great, mine run 24/7 without issue.
I just got the M3 MAX and I am so disappointed with the speed. Something that should have taken 30 minutes to print ended up taking over 3 hours. Hopefully a firmware update will fix that.
How have you been doing with speed?
Although Anycubic Photon M3 Max promises 60 mm/h and Anycubic Photon M3 Plus 100 mm/h 😐
I need some 3d printing resin that can have contact with sea water.
Autofill system remember me my old Time Machine: never work
why would the screen be ruined? It has happened to me and it took time but I was able to clean it and it continued to work.
A resin printer with a "bowden" tube feature hahaha.
You just saved me from buying this printer. If I want a wireless camera I'll just fix a wireless camera myself on another model. I'll stick with the standard m3 for now till they sort this out
I agree that the PEI sheet gives a nice texture. But do any of you find it also reduces some detail? I have a Halot-One (2K mono LCD) and I find that it's detail is the same or sometimes better than the M3 Plus (6K mono LCD). Maybe I'm missing something. Again, most models look detailed equally, but on those calibration prints the PEI "texture" seems to be the reason some details are a little less visible on the M3 than on the Halot-One.
Am I missing something or crazy?
I have the mega x its pretty much all that without the extra nonsense :DD works great and its cheap
I would really like to see anycubic sell upgrades to their older printers as stand alone items rather than re-releasing the same printers with marginal upgrades
What happens if you use a 3D printer inside at vacuum chamber would it affect the 3D print in anyway could it make it stronger I feel like it would suck the air out of the filament and make the filament more dense
I'm starting to get the feeling that the best way into Resin printing is to buy the cheapest big brand printer that fits yours size needs. It's not going to last too long with all the spills or broken FEPs.
Great vid. Great review. Great shirt :)
I hope you review the new Saturn.
so between Mono X 6K and M3 Plus which one would you recommend? From the data they seems almost identical, except for speed and auto-refill option
They should just run a simple AI script to use the camera to detect fill level. You can then set the volume you want to hold in the software.
@J I don't underestimate it at all! I literally work with AI / machine learning and camera tech everyday. We sell AI camera systems for object detection / safety systems on mobile equipment. Our base level systems run on a raspberry pi with a coral TPU accelerator. We had a working prototype detecting people / heavy equipment within a couple months of R&D back in 2019.
There is a device out there that evil wizards invented many moons ago that might help, its called a funnel
I will be honest I would skip out on Anycubic produtcs cause I have had nothing but issues with them. Yes they offer products at a cheap price but in my oppion they are not very good quality products. My first printer from them was the Kossel linear plus where I had missing parts that I had to source myself and a month later had to get a new PSU cause the original burnt out. Afterwards I had to constaly maintain and upgrade it to get ok parts out of it. Then I git the Mono X which works ok at best but the wash an cure station from them completely broke have only useing four times in 3 months. It might just be that I have bad luck with their products but I wont buy anither product from them after this.
That sucks. I got a Mars 3 Pro and it’s been a headache, but the Wash and cure Plus i got with it has been excellent
Looks like it is style of Anycubic, starting from their FDM i3 Mega - good ideas, sloppy implementation.
But all this forced cloud features elevate problem on next level
Is it possible to set the Z axis of the print bed to be higher after printing is finished?
yeah it's not perfect but that advertised fast print speed is what i run mine at, works well. i just use chitubox and ignore pretty much everything else. Also literally just tune the settings, parts stick and pop off easily at 25sec cure time for 1st layer. Also print small stuff on a "large" printer is so you can do a bunch at once.....
That’s exactly how you should use your printers. Know the limitations, maybe fix some, but use them and if they are of use, it was a good buy. If it’s not trash in reviews, it’s probably fine enough. That being said, I’m not going the cheap way anymore, a bit of quality simply costs money. Anyway, use them, ignore whatever opinion others have, it does make a hobby more fun. :)
Can you initiate a build from the USB or can you only start a print from the app?
That autofill system is ridiculously over-engineered and will very probably be a major point of failure. Elegoo did it right with the Jupiter's gravity-fed refill system.
I really want to see someone (anyone!) review the Biqu Pixel. It looks like it could be good, but that's just based on what they say about it.