another tip is if you are replacing both the strut and sway link is just remove the bottom sway link bolt and leave the top sway link bolt attached to the strut that you are going to junk anyway. that way you only deal with one sway link bolt. "and bingo was his name..." lol :) excellent video as usual.
went to replace a strut today and one of these stopped me cold, hadn't yet bought a cutting tool and the entire inside of the torx was rust, so ordered a cutting tool on amazon to power through the damn thing... didn't realize I would need one when starting the project. then again usually work on saddle stitchers and not cars left out in the elements of a New England winter. I do have to say thankyou to everyone on youtube as it is a great resource for figuring things out.
I agree. This was the only , “stuck sway bar” video on you tube that had the close up camera view. It’s what we do it yourself ere need and rely on. Thanks !
I just want to say, thank you so much. everyone showed how to get the link off but not one video showed what to do with that darn stripped hex bolt. I’m a newbie and you just saved me big bucks.
I have been fighting with removing the nuts from the link on my 2001lhs. I used the process of driving the shaft while holding the nut as shown in your tips. I was about to go the cut off wheel route, had to use vice grips on the nut and keep tightening it as the metal kept shaving off as the shaft slowly made progress. whew; what a pain one down one to go. definitely gonna use anti sleaze on replacement in the event I keep this one on the road and ever need to replace struts again. Thanks for posting your tips. I was about to break down and take to shop but was fightin it all the way.
IF you have a rusty exposed thread get a drill with wire brush attachment 1st or a wire brush and get as much crusty rust off as possible BEFORE you spray it down with Kroil, liquid wrench, ect.
LOL, well to some those are limited tools, and to others those are out of their realm. But most auto DIYers have some of the tools or they wouldn't be here watching. The more advanced you become as a DIYer, the more advanced your tools become. Thanks for watching Jake. Have a fantastic day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Cutting chisel and 2lb hammer to split the nut, or a cheap high speed rotary tool like the dremel, but there are types at HF and WalMart that only cost about $15 and come with a small stack of (really crappy) cutting discs.
Particularly if you're intending to reuse the link, first thing I do, after a soak with WD40, is to put a die nut down the protruding threads. Make sure the hex is clean and if it's suspiciously corroded, try the next size up imperial size Allen key in it. Otherwise grind back the hex and the first couple of threads in the nut, with a slitting disc cut a slot for a screwdriver and turn it out, one of these always works for me !
Lubricating these bad boys a day or two ahead of time with penetrating fluid can make a HUGE difference. If all else fails, just cut the fuckers off...why bother backing off the nuts if you're putting new ones on anyway...old linkage are gonna get chucked. Great video and thanks for posting!
Forget using the splined fitting. As you demonstrate, rust is the killer. Best way to remove is grip the flats behind with vise grips, then use the impact! Work's 95% of times. If all fails, cut the bstrd off!
i've tried with vise grips on two different cars. the shaft just keeps spinning. i plan to buy a cutoff tool and buy new SBLs as I have the struts already.
Thank you! Sir!!!! Spent 6 hours only to get one S/B bushing replaces. The link, the bottoms boot wouldn’t break free and had to tighten back up the top, in order to get at least one bushing replaced. I’ll borrow a saw and do it your way. Happy New Years!!!
Hey Brother Changed both sway bar links in my 09 Matrix and voila!..the sound was gone and car felt new...also changed the intermediate steering shaft, it had play in one of the universal joints ,causing a clunking sound. Toyota wanted $400 CDN for a new one...got one from the wrecker for $60!...and the links were $40/pair (new of course). Lots of these cars in the salvage yards with discount parts available for years to come. Once again, thanks for taking the time to make this video and spreading that knowledge!
With all the tools and maybe even a car lift this job would be a doddle. For me, with little experience and limited tools, and occasionally a severely rusted old car, it can be mission impossible. But today my luck turned around - old car but the nuts came off not too bad at all. Very difficult to put a time on these jobs.
My method is to use an impact and undo it a little and then tighten it again. Repeat gentle out and hard in. Each time it will come out a little further. Once the nut is moving a little bearing grease is better than penitratimg oil. I hold the shaft on the inside with needle nose vice grips.
I attached the hex bit to a breaker bar which was positioned such that rotating the nut would press the breaker bar against the ground. Then I put the wrench on the nut and used a floor jack under the wrench to finally get it to move. I could theoretically used another breaker bar for the nut but there wasn’t space to fit a long enough one and still have room for it to move. That was after letting it marinate in penetrating oil for a day ahead of time.
Brill. Thanks very much from Wales! I'm only half way through changing one on my Saab 9-3. I've given up for the day having only managed to get the top 'outward' facing nut off (what a pain that was). Could not, however I tried, get even a start on the lower inner facing bolt as it is completely rusted up and I could not get enough leverage from my tight sitting position.......however, didn't give the impact drill a thought (fitted with Allen key bit) and so looking forward to having another go tomorrow. Thanks again.
@@RogerPack Hmm, it was 2yrs ago so unfortunately I cannot remember the exact details but the simple answer was NO! I ended up taking it to local garage who couldn’t either do they used a gas torch (heated it). My ‘grey’ memory telling me that I either couldn’t get my impact drill on it (room) or I didn’t have large enough Allen key to fit that drill. Anyway, good luck if you’re trying it yourself 🙏👍
@@stuffoflardohfortheloveof next time, get a cheap electric grinder. I was stuck for hours. Took out the grinder and I got the first bolt out in about ten minutes. Next bolt took me about a minute. Learning curve was not steep at all.
Nice tip. I lowered my Suzuki Swift Sport and had to take off the shock absorbers on the front. So the links had to come of too. I can tell you that was a pain. The links were fine so I had to save them. The links were still the oem ones and had no torx or allen on the front and also no nut on the back. I ended up grinding two flat sides on the bolt side so I could hold it with a Bahco wrench. It was a pain I can tell you that!! That process toke me the same amount of time as changing the springs on the front. When I discovered later the links were only $15 each I had grinded them off anyway, hahaha. Dutch regards.
Dude i litterally just did that today, grinded one half of the bolt off and popped it off with a hammer. F'd up part is that a 07 sonata v6 doesnt have an allen or torque slot its just a nut so i couldnt do it that way im pissed but happy its off
Na Korean made but question so when i bought the car it was lowered never paid it any attention until i had to change the strut, previous owner put eibach x/o springs on the front strut previously i put duralast quick strut with stock spring from autozone I want same height can i reuse my eibach spring and take it off old front strut
u can also make your cut off discs any size you want for super cheap. just buy bigger discs for bigger tools they are much cheaper cut them to size needed with snippers pliers or such. drill a hole in middle done. u can make a perfect balanced disc if u turn it on a stone if you want, not necessary tho. i use diy ones over super expensive dremel or similar branded ones highly recommended.
Ray Jones thank you very much we try to mix up our videos a little bit and do some specific repair videos helps people with general knowledge of how things can be done on their car many of the things on this video can be used in other areas of their home and their cars, I guess that's how you learn to be mechanically inclined all I ever did was watch my dad do everything and you pick it up I guess.
Most people dont use a cut off wheel enough to slice off like your saying A nut buster can remove a must stubborn rusted nuts Or use the cut off wheel for slicing the nut Why cut off from behind where you cant see
We use this method because it saves us hours buzz it off and you’re done done this for over 25 years works like a charm every time. after a while of dealing with rusted bolts and nuts you find ways to deal with them at work every single time
Thanks a lot for posting this. Mine used a T30 Torx. I tried to use that with a wrench and the bit broke. I'm going to cut mine off. I was going to pay to get them replaced. I already have a power cutter tool so I'm using that.
Cleaning it out first is 99% of the battle so great tip - sticking a pneumatic wrench on there and using that to turn the shaft is madness...as that's how shops strip these things out! Break the nut loose first with a long arm wrench then use a spanner and only hold the shaft still with the Allen/torx while you undo it - otherwise you're asking for trouble! Otherwise great vid.
Heat and impact will zing them off too. Vice grips on the back - tight! And a wrench, socket, or pliers. Screwing around with the inside hardware can make for a bad day.
I have an '04 Trailblazer. I need to replace the rear brake rotors. To do that the brake caliper brackets have to come off. In their infinite wisdom, GM put the rear sway bar link right behind the lower bolt. I have tried everything to get that bolt off! It's time for the torch and impact wrench. To get an impact socket on there, I have to remove the sway bar links. I reached up and grabbed one of the links and it gyrated like Cher doing one of her "dances"! I have two new links and a set of bushings. The old ones are going to get the cut-off wheel on the grinder treatment. Ever notice how a simple job tends to get more and more involved?
LOL, yes, it's that opening of that can of worms my friend! Happens all the time :) Thank you for watching and sharing, good luck on your project. mad Mike the hammer SPC
one tip if you have a link/frame mount that has a nut to hold as you turn the outside fastener.... pop a gear wrench /box end wrench on the nut first then use your ratchet/wrench on the end of the main fastener. The wrench will either get jammed against the frame/floor/jack and hold it without needing to do yoga to hold one/turn the other....
Another application for the 303. Put it on before those bushings fall apart. Also, use Miracle Paint on all the rustable parts to prevent or arrest rust from costing you in repairs.
We use these amzn.to/2za3FS6 and just a reminder, all of the tools/products used in our videos can be found in the SHOW MORE of the videos description. Thanks for watching and asking Terry. mad Mike the hammer SPC
This was great , man. Tackling project this weekend on a '06 jetta-you know, those stinkers that use the tri squares-will probably end up cutting off the studs.. Anyway, found some new links that have flats so I can use a open-end wrench to hold the stud while I ratchet on the new nut. Thanks again
next time you hold that nut with a wrench... leave the wrench to hang and get pressed against the frame... your hand/fingers will thank you and 1/4" steel won't let go or bleed....
Damn, wish i had one of those rotary tools. Had to cut those off with a sawzall and it was a pain! Hopefully I didn't damage anything else in the process.
@@noea7344 Yea I used a dremel to cut the bolt in 1/2 from the front thinking the bolt would pop off if I banged it enought. No luck. Might have if I lifted the wheel or took stress of the bolt. Give it another shot today.
Spray them with this amzn.to/3KtsIUD every 6 months, along with anything else you don't want seizing up, this stuff is amazing. Thank you for watching and asking, we really appreciate it, Muhammed, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Spray a little new or used transmission oil on it and you will be good to go, nothing inhibits rust more that transmission oil. Thanks for watching and asking Corey, we appreciate it. Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
If you’re not cutting or torching the fastener, if it’s a locking nut, with this style or has the hex holding feature on the tapered stud, this is almost always the safest and most efficient way of removal. Just remember, if you were to remove it the “traditional way”, via loosening the hex nut, it would be counter clockwise. When removing this way via the stud, you’re holding the nut and spinning the stud clockwise in order to loosen. The opposite of “righty tightly, lefty loosely”
Absolutely it will help! See this new video ua-cam.com/video/S03pw1ka_-Q/v-deo.html it's exactly what you are looking for my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your week. mad Mike
I always just push the rubber boot back, and if it has no flats, just put a good pair of vise grips on it, real tight, and run the nut off with an impact wrench. Never had to cut one off yet.
I like to thank you so much on your video I seem to be in a bind can't seem to get the sway bar off I tried a powered hacksaw and I went through some blades I'm going to try the metal cut off wheel like you did in the video I'd like to buy them from you but I have the car up on the Jack need to use it by the next day next time I have a project I'll buy them from you thank you so much
Thank you so much it did work good it was a little hard to get in there and it did cut some of the connecting part but just a little bit it's working fine I did try the metal cut hacksaw but it was taking too much time and it needs to be stable to cut good worked great thank you
Jim you can get all you need here Electric Die Grinder amzn.to/2hJlDUq Air Die Grinder amzn.to/2BaVhTX Cut-Off wheels amzn.to/2za3FS6 1/4 Cut-Off Arbor amzn.to/2hSYnag or click the SHOW MORE of the video Discription
You can use whatever you want, we are just sharing the easiest way we have found. Thanks RomanSB, sorry about the delayed response my friend. Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Yeah electric die grinder with a cutoff wheel works fine, they're not very hard. As you say not usually enough room for an angle grinder, especially on the lower link.
The top nuts came off with no problem. The right side lower was a little harder, needed to use vise grips to stop the link from spinning. The left side lower..... I ended up grinding it off, almost an hour trying to get it off.
No, we've never had to jack both sides up, but depends on the vehicle, you will know when you start the process whether you need to do both sides. We suggest changing one at a time, sometimes it's easier to use 2 jacks one for the side and one for the sway bar this keeps the link in position so you can just install the new link easily. Thanks for asking. Happy New Year Adam. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Did you call those grease fittings grease zerts? I ask because that's what I always called em but found out that they are really called grease zerks. I recently changed my struts and I just removed the nut from the link connected to the sway bar and just left the strut and link together when I removed the strut. Good tip Thanks.
Here are the two tools you need amzn.to/2zbrAAX & amzn.to/2hJlDUq we did not have anything that was angled, but use these amzn.to/2za3FS6 with this amzn.to/2hSYnag in your die grinder and you should be all set. Hope this helps Benjamin, thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars thanks. I could cut just one in 4 hours using 5 discs. Is made from some very strong steel alloy . I think i will remove the coilovers on the other side and use angle grinder.
Your best bet is to use this amzn.to/2hJlDUq but you can use whatever you want to use my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week. mad Mike
Hello Gerald you can jack up the entire front end or just one side at a time if you want we found it easier to do one side some guys left the whole front thank you very much and thank you for being a great subscriber
if you do one side then the sway bar is active and makes removing the links difficult when their nuts are removed. trust me. had to jack it up on the whole end to get it off.
Lol went to switch both links on the front end of my mitsubishi endeavor today. Almost no experience. 5 hours later and a little hand saw... I got one done! Just one!! After stripping both ends of the link. Was able to install the new one, put the wheel back on and drive to go get an angle grinder. That other link better prepare it's asshole for what's coming.
LOL, go get em Derek! Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it, have a fantastic day and all the best on that last link my friend! mad Mike the hammer SPC
The OEM one I had on my Kia Sorento didnt even have the hex key option on it. Would have saved me alot of time instead of having to use a dremel metal blade to cut the damn thing off Make sure your IN FRONT of the hex bolt....learned from experience.
Thank you for watching and sharing my friend :) We appreciate your comment and we will heed your warning... LOL Sorry about the delay in responding to you. Hope you have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
easiest and least destructive way I've found to get them off is to heat the nut 1-2 min with propane torch, clamp a vise grip pliers on the rear side, and spin the nut off with an impact gun. they even have a special vise grip plier called a sway bar link or parrot plier. hasn't failed me yet
If you look around you can find a pair of these for most cars for $20. If they are rusty just cut them off cuz if they weren't bad they will be soon. I use a Sawzall or cutoff wheel on electric grinder. Most people don't have an air compressor capable of the power shown here. Can you remake this video using a hacksaw? hehe :)
Thank you Nathaniel we truly appreciate you sharing this we know people have many different methods of doing this type of work we try to keep it as simple as possible for those DIYers that have limited tools thanks again have a great night
whenever i work on a customers car changing struts i always push new sway bar links for added piece of mind. they're only 30-40 bucks for the set and saves me the headache of the removal process which can be a tedious pita job (if they're bad enough). i usually just cut the SOB's off with my grinder takes 10 seconds
Have you ever tried to hold a greasy screwdriver handle with a sweaty hand when the amount of torque needed to bust loose a rusty nut is applied?.... Good luck with that..... The links are like $15 each...cheap!....just cut 'em off!
I got a reamed out stabilizer end.. 2001 toyota rav4 rear stab link.. Im thinking on drilling it out and putting a little washer in it. any ideas. Thanks
Quick question for you. If a sway bar is bad, does it make noise when you're pulling off? Almost like a grunting tugging noise. Mostly hear it when I pull off from a stop position. Then start heading clunking noises if I go over bumps.
@@SweetProjectCars thank you so much. I was looking under there yesterday and I couldn't see that well, but as I had the wheel turned it looked like possibly the CV axle bearing could be loose or going bad? On the driver side. I'll get a flash light today and check again. Even when the car is not rolling and I turn the wheel all the way in one direction,I can then start to hear it make a crunching clunking noise. When I'm driving straight it's totally quiet and fine and smooth. Just turns out bumps causes noises. Just wish I can pick point it exactly.
What kind of car were you working on ? FWIW you can get the air cut off tools for less than ten dollars at Harbor Fright and your Air Tools Will last Forever if you oil them every time you use them and you can ATF to lube them as well as WD 40 and drain your compressor every so often Good Video Joe
How would you remove the sway link if the actual bolt was rusted in the hole? I got the nut off, and stripped the torx end trying to get it off. The other side of the car just slipped out, but this one won't budge. Tried lube, punches, and a steel rod with a 3lb hammer with no luck!
MontrealAngler put the nut back on until it is just about flush to the sway bar link bolt and tap the top of the nut with a hammer make sure you have soaked it with some bolt release and it will fall right out
@@SweetProjectCars I dont think that would work. Thats pretty much what I did yesterday but with the solid steel bar. The end is mangled now and the bolt won't go on. Guess I'll go buy a grinder.. thanks for the video
MontrealAngler no problem did not now you had tried it...well it is learning lesson to always use the nut on top so you don't have that happen and a die grinder and cut off wheel is the only way to go when dealing with these that or a torch and we do that many times
Hi, I used a nation Brand car repair company, really nice people but they have had problems with Foxies Van,( Chrysler Town and Country Limited) I had new struts, shocks and routers new ceramic brakes all the way around and new" M" tires put on but they received dried out seals. They got the left side right after ordering the new parts again. The noise and the way the right side feels has to be redone today. This is 4 trips 120 miles round trip. Is there anything you know I need to know about the whole assembly or why would they get dried out seals? Thanks!
You know, I just done the one on my transit and to be honest I taught I need to cut it. There is another trick, on the other side of the nut past the bracket and between the rubber bushing just slip a spanner to lock the bolt. Mine was 17mm and it worked without cutting. Trouble is all those rods are not the same, but worth checking out before cutting.
Basically this removal technique with the cut off is for when the sway link bar is junk and no good there is no sense wasting time trying to take it apart with wrenches and what not if it is no good and broken then we just cut them off in two seconds so you can get on with the repair and your day thank you for sharing have a good day
Honestly, I own a cutting torch. It's way faster than any method out there. Maybe 15 seconds per end, hit it with the garden hose to cool things off and reinstall. It takes me longer to remove and reinstall the tires than the link lol.
Please can you tell me the name of the cutting disc you are using to cut it off. I have a drill but I need a drill bit cutting disc to cut it off. Thanks.
It's these amzn.to/2za3FS6 and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can always be found in the ...MORE of the videos description, see here 3c5.com/4u6dj if you can't find it let us know and we will help you. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars Thanks for your reply. I wanted to ask im changing a suspension coil spring on a Toyota Yaris 2009. Theres only one nut on the top under the dust cap witch is really tight. Can I put wd40 on it just to loosen it up? I know you have to put an alan key in middle to hold it but I don't want that to slip if I spray wd40 on it. Also only one side of my spring is fractured so im changing that but the other side is perfectly fine. Everything is good on the other side. Do I really have to change that side to. I know garages say both sides got to be changed but if its perfectly fine is it really necessary? Thanks.
Hello EJ, use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky on that nut, I guarantee it will loosen it up, apply it liberally then let it sit for 15-30 minutes. As far as replacing both sides, I would do the side that needs it, put it all back together and drive it. If you feel anything different or if your vehicle pulls to one side then I would replace the other side. Hope this helps, thanks again for watching, have a great week and all the best on your project my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars Thank you for your reply but I took it to the garage yesterday just before you replied back. Garage charged me £100 about $125 in US dollars just to change springs and sway bars on both sides. I supplied the parts to them. Thanks for all your help.
Spent 4 hours trying to get one of these off with hand tools and failed. This will help tremendously. Many thanks!
You will love the results of this method that’s for sure it’ll make your job a lot easier thanks for sharing have a great day
same here... finally decided to cut them off and took maybe 10 minutes.
Lol. This is too funny
Took me 3.5 hrs to
another tip is if you are replacing both the strut and sway link is just remove the bottom sway link bolt and leave the top sway link bolt attached to the strut that you are going to junk anyway. that way you only deal with one sway link bolt.
"and bingo was his name..." lol :)
excellent video as usual.
Vaquero 357 get tip thanks for sharing my friend :)
Sweet PC - youre very welcome :D
Brrrriiilllliiiiant!
It's more fun with a Sawzall and chisel
@@garychambers5930 got a video of that?
went to replace a strut today and one of these stopped me cold, hadn't yet bought a cutting tool and the entire inside of the torx was rust, so ordered a cutting tool on amazon to power through the damn thing... didn't realize I would need one when starting the project. then again usually work on saddle stitchers and not cars left out in the elements of a New England winter. I do have to say thankyou to everyone on youtube as it is a great resource for figuring things out.
Same here. Had a whole day planned around this car. This thing stopped me dead in my tracks. New links ordered.
Man I like how you get your camera up close and personal so a person can actually SEE WHAT OU ARE TALKING ABOUT.THANKS BRO !!!!!
Thank you very much we try to do the best job we can as we are not professional cameraman but we try
I agree. This was the only , “stuck sway bar” video on you tube that had the close up camera view. It’s what we do it yourself ere need and rely on. Thanks !
I just want to say, thank you so much. everyone showed how to get the link off but not one video showed what to do with that darn stripped hex bolt. I’m a newbie and you just saved me big bucks.
"Tap it right there, bingo was his name." 😆😆🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣
Best part
and rapidly drops the bolt because it was hot af
I have been fighting with removing the nuts from the link on my 2001lhs. I used the process of driving the shaft while holding the nut as shown in your tips. I was about to go the cut off wheel route, had to use vice grips on the nut and keep tightening it as the metal kept shaving off as the shaft slowly made progress. whew; what a pain one down one to go. definitely gonna use anti sleaze on replacement in the event I keep this one on the road and ever need to replace struts again. Thanks for posting your tips. I was about to break down and take to shop but was fightin it all the way.
Thank you very much for sharing you are a true DIYER sweet project cars is very proud of you have a great night mad Mike sweet project cars
IF you have a rusty exposed thread get a drill with wire brush attachment 1st or a wire brush and get as much crusty rust off as possible BEFORE you spray it down with Kroil, liquid wrench, ect.
awesome info. many novices don't have that...thats why we did this video this way, for them....but thanks for the great tip..
"Easiest way for the diyer with limited tools" cracks out the air ratchet and die grinder 🤣🤣
LOL, well to some those are limited tools, and to others those are out of their realm. But most auto DIYers have some of the tools or they wouldn't be here watching. The more advanced you become as a DIYer, the more advanced your tools become. Thanks for watching Jake. Have a fantastic day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Cutting chisel and 2lb hammer to split the nut, or a cheap high speed rotary tool like the dremel, but there are types at HF and WalMart that only cost about $15 and come with a small stack of (really crappy) cutting discs.
@@Npc5150 I'm not sure if a dremel would reach far enough in?
Air ratchets are ~$20, same with die grinders. And those should be available at any Walmart, hardware store, harbor freight.
Particularly if you're intending to reuse the link, first thing I do, after a soak with WD40, is to put a die nut down the protruding threads. Make sure the hex is clean and if it's suspiciously corroded, try the next size up imperial size Allen key in it. Otherwise grind back the hex and the first couple of threads in the nut, with a slitting disc cut a slot for a screwdriver and turn it out, one of these always works for me !
Lubricating these bad boys a day or two ahead of time with penetrating fluid can make a HUGE difference. If all else fails, just cut the fuckers off...why bother backing off the nuts if you're putting new ones on anyway...old linkage are gonna get chucked.
Great video and thanks for posting!
Absolutely the Best, straight forward, tutorial on sway bar link replacement.
From the best, to the rest!
Forget using the splined fitting. As you demonstrate, rust is the killer. Best way to remove is grip the flats behind with vise grips, then use the impact! Work's 95% of times. If all fails, cut the bstrd off!
lol thanks you are correct
That is my method, or an electric grinder.
@@SweetProjectCars cutting it off works 100% of the time..
Flats aren't always present, generally when there is an allen or torx in the shaft they are manufactured without the flats on the rear side.
i've tried with vise grips on two different cars. the shaft just keeps spinning. i plan to buy a cutoff tool and buy new SBLs as I have the struts already.
Thank you! Sir!!!! Spent 6 hours only to get one S/B bushing replaces. The link, the bottoms boot wouldn’t break free and had to tighten back up the top, in order to get at least one bushing replaced. I’ll borrow a saw and do it your way. Happy New Years!!!
Keith Mounts you will love the fast results for sure and thank you very much our good friend and we hope 2019 is great for you and your family :)
Hey Brother
Changed both sway bar links in my 09 Matrix and voila!..the sound was gone and car felt new...also changed the intermediate steering shaft, it had play in one of the universal joints ,causing a clunking sound. Toyota wanted $400 CDN for a new one...got one from the wrecker for $60!...and the links were $40/pair (new of course). Lots of these cars in the salvage yards with discount parts available for years to come.
Once again, thanks for taking the time to make this video and spreading that knowledge!
I use a nut splitter most of the time. Takes about 5 minutes. Great video and thanks for sharing your knowledge with is all.
Thank you very much for sharing I appreciate that
Yes thats the best way to do it
With all the tools and maybe even a car lift this job would be a doddle. For me, with little experience and limited tools, and occasionally a severely rusted old car, it can be mission impossible. But today my luck turned around - old car but the nuts came off not too bad at all. Very difficult to put a time on these jobs.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike
My method is to use an impact and undo it a little and then tighten it again. Repeat gentle out and hard in. Each time it will come out a little further. Once the nut is moving a little bearing grease is better than penitratimg oil. I hold the shaft on the inside with needle nose vice grips.
Thank you Andrew very much for the great tip and we are happy to have you with us :)
I attached the hex bit to a breaker bar which was positioned such that rotating the nut would press the breaker bar against the ground. Then I put the wrench on the nut and used a floor jack under the wrench to finally get it to move. I could theoretically used another breaker bar for the nut but there wasn’t space to fit a long enough one and still have room for it to move. That was after letting it marinate in penetrating oil for a day ahead of time.
Thanks for sharing we appreciate it very much. Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Brill. Thanks very much from Wales! I'm only half way through changing one on my Saab 9-3. I've given up for the day having only managed to get the top 'outward' facing nut off (what a pain that was). Could not, however I tried, get even a start on the lower inner facing bolt as it is completely rusted up and I could not get enough leverage from my tight sitting position.......however, didn't give the impact drill a thought (fitted with Allen key bit) and so looking forward to having another go tomorrow. Thanks again.
Glad we could help my friend good luck to you and glad to hear you’re doing the work yourself we love that
Did it work?
@@RogerPack Hmm, it was 2yrs ago so unfortunately I cannot remember the exact details but the simple answer was NO! I ended up taking it to local garage who couldn’t either do they used a gas torch (heated it). My ‘grey’ memory telling me that I either couldn’t get my impact drill on it (room) or I didn’t have large enough Allen key to fit that drill. Anyway, good luck if you’re trying it yourself 🙏👍
@@stuffoflardohfortheloveof next time, get a cheap electric grinder. I was stuck for hours. Took out the grinder and I got the first bolt out in about ten minutes. Next bolt took me about a minute. Learning curve was not steep at all.
You must be reading my mind. Just got some new links for my 93 Eldorado. Looking to put them in this weekend! Thank you! Keep up the great content!
good deal, we like to show a little of everything you can use some of these methods on many other repairs of your car.
Nice tip. I lowered my Suzuki Swift Sport and had to take off the shock absorbers on the front. So the links had to come of too. I can tell you that was a pain. The links were fine so I had to save them. The links were still the oem ones and had no torx or allen on the front and also no nut on the back. I ended up grinding two flat sides on the bolt side so I could hold it with a Bahco wrench. It was a pain I can tell you that!! That process toke me the same amount of time as changing the springs on the front. When I discovered later the links were only $15 each I had grinded them off anyway, hahaha. Dutch regards.
You very much glad we could help always good to save parts not have to replace them that’s for sure
Dude i litterally just did that today, grinded one half of the bolt off and popped it off with a hammer. F'd up part is that a 07 sonata v6 doesnt have an allen or torque slot its just a nut so i couldnt do it that way im pissed but happy its off
Probably it's a Japanese common problem. My European car's had allen or torx on the front of the links.
Na Korean made but question so when i bought the car it was lowered never paid it any attention until i had to change the strut, previous owner put eibach x/o springs on the front strut previously i put duralast quick strut with stock spring from autozone I want same height can i reuse my eibach spring and take it off old front strut
Curtis Fisher yes you should be able to :)
u can also make your cut off discs any size you want for super cheap. just buy bigger discs for bigger tools they are much cheaper cut them to size needed with snippers pliers or such. drill a hole in middle done. u can make a perfect balanced disc if u turn it on a stone if you want, not necessary tho. i use diy ones over super expensive dremel or similar branded ones highly recommended.
Thank you very much for sharing that we appreciate it have a great day
Thanks for the grinder idea! Couldn’t even budge my lower nut at all! Off to buy a grinder in the morning and cut it off.
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching and sharing, we appreciate it, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars cut the bolt right out with an angle grinder....easy-peasy!
That's something I won't be doing, but it was interesting seeing how it's done.
Well done!
Ray Jones thank you very much we try to mix up our videos a little bit and do some specific repair videos helps people with general knowledge of how things can be done on their car many of the things on this video can be used in other areas of their home and their cars, I guess that's how you learn to be mechanically inclined all I ever did was watch my dad do everything and you pick it up I guess.
Most people dont use a cut off wheel enough to slice off like your saying
A nut buster can remove a must stubborn rusted nuts
Or use the cut off wheel for slicing the nut
Why cut off from behind where you cant see
We use this method because it saves us hours buzz it off and you’re done
done this for over 25 years works like a charm every time. after a while of dealing with rusted bolts and nuts you find ways to deal with them at work every single time
Thanks a lot for posting this. Mine used a T30 Torx. I tried to use that with a wrench and the bit broke. I'm going to cut mine off. I was going to pay to get them replaced. I already have a power cutter tool so I'm using that.
You got this Corey! Thanks for watching and for your comment. Have a great day, and good luck with your project. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I always heat it up with a torch and some rust penetrant. Works so well I’m not sure why people don’t do that
Thanks for watching and sharing, if only it were that easy every time :) Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
This is the exact problem I have. Problem is the hex hole is wasted. I have spare sway bars. Thanks for the advice!
Glad to help Steve. Thanks for being here with us and sharing. Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
It's refreshing to watch a well done video that doesn't contain a lot of swearing.
im with you on that as well, we just try to do it as quick as possible, but yet as informative as possible with normal language.
And is also quick and to the point. No fluff and no dragging it out for suspense. Bravo!
Cleaning it out first is 99% of the battle so great tip - sticking a pneumatic wrench on there and using that to turn the shaft is madness...as that's how shops strip these things out! Break the nut loose first with a long arm wrench then use a spanner and only hold the shaft still with the Allen/torx while you undo it - otherwise you're asking for trouble! Otherwise great vid.
James Y thank you and you are very welcome my friend :)
Heat and impact will zing them off too. Vice grips on the back - tight! And a wrench, socket, or pliers. Screwing around with the inside hardware can make for a bad day.
mharradine57 right, heat works every time but most viewers/DIY'ers here do not have that option ...thanks for sharing :)
@@SweetProjectCars true!
I’m tackling this job Saturday. Excellent video! Thanks you so much.
Alan Lutz thank you and you are very welcome my friend :)
I have an '04 Trailblazer. I need to replace the rear brake rotors. To do that the brake caliper brackets have to come off. In their infinite wisdom, GM put the rear sway bar link right behind the lower bolt. I have tried everything to get that bolt off! It's time for the torch and impact wrench. To get an impact socket on there, I have to remove the sway bar links. I reached up and grabbed one of the links and it gyrated like Cher doing one of her "dances"! I have two new links and a set of bushings. The old ones are going to get the cut-off wheel on the grinder treatment. Ever notice how a simple job tends to get more and more involved?
LOL, yes, it's that opening of that can of worms my friend! Happens all the time :) Thank you for watching and sharing, good luck on your project. mad Mike the hammer SPC
one tip if you have a link/frame mount that has a nut to hold as you turn the outside fastener.... pop a gear wrench /box end wrench on the nut first then use your ratchet/wrench on the end of the main fastener. The wrench will either get jammed against the frame/floor/jack and hold it without needing to do yoga to hold one/turn the other....
Thank you so much for sharing this awesome tip and great ideas it helps a whole channel have an awesome night my
A trick that has worked for me is to drill into the hex hole just a bit so you get better engagement with the hex bit. A smaller than 5mm drill.
Thank you so much for watching and sharing, Emilio, we really appreciate it, have a great weekend my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Another application for the 303. Put it on before those bushings fall apart. Also, use Miracle Paint on all the rustable parts to prevent or arrest rust from costing you in repairs.
eagle great idea thank you very much for the great comments it helps the entire channel :)
What cutting wheel do You use in your air tool? Thank You for your time.
We use these amzn.to/2za3FS6 and just a reminder, all of the tools/products used in our videos can be found in the SHOW MORE of the videos description. Thanks for watching and asking Terry. mad Mike the hammer SPC
This was great , man. Tackling project this weekend on a '06 jetta-you know, those stinkers that use the tri squares-will probably end up cutting off the studs.. Anyway, found some new links that have flats so I can use a open-end wrench to hold the stud while I ratchet on the new nut. Thanks again
Very welcome my friend glad we could help have a great night we will see you Friday
next time you hold that nut with a wrench... leave the wrench to hang and get pressed against the frame... your hand/fingers will thank you and 1/4" steel won't let go or bleed....
WOW! Quick and to the point! Awesome!
Glad you liked it Edward! Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great weekend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Damn, wish i had one of those rotary tools. Had to cut those off with a sawzall and it was a pain! Hopefully I didn't damage anything else in the process.
That's crazy I used a dremel took a long time
@@noea7344 Yea I used a dremel to cut the bolt in 1/2 from the front thinking the bolt would pop off if I banged it enought. No luck. Might have if I lifted the wheel or took stress of the bolt. Give it another shot today.
I subscribed to your channel
Why?
Because you are the most down to earth mechanic on UA-cam no caps
thank you very much mike
🤣 wow that was awesome. Wish I had seen this video before I replaced mine.
You get 2 thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you very much we truly appreciate that my friend have an awesome day mad Mike
That thing looks new compared to a car that has driven in salt.
Hi. Thanks.
How do u prevent this from happening in the future, after just installing after market ones?
Spray them with this amzn.to/3KtsIUD every 6 months, along with anything else you don't want seizing up, this stuff is amazing. Thank you for watching and asking, we really appreciate it, Muhammed, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
If the hex is damaged, drilling it a bit deeper makes it easier to put a hex or L wrench in.
Thank you very much for watching and sharing Emilio, have a great weekend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Would putting thread locker on help to make sure they don't rust?
Spray a little new or used transmission oil on it and you will be good to go, nothing inhibits rust more that transmission oil. Thanks for watching and asking Corey, we appreciate it. Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
If you’re not cutting or torching the fastener, if it’s a locking nut, with this style or has the hex holding feature on the tapered stud, this is almost always the safest and most efficient way of removal. Just remember, if you were to remove it the “traditional way”, via loosening the hex nut, it would be counter clockwise. When removing this way via the stud, you’re holding the nut and spinning the stud clockwise in order to loosen. The opposite of “righty tightly, lefty loosely”
I took sawsall to back of mine and bolt was bolt was still spinning. Never thought to giver a tap! Thank you sir
Thank you very much for sharing glad we could help you
Whats the best grease for everything automotive related? (Bushings,Joints,etc)
Michael, we use this and have had superior success with it amzn.to/2FbdGlU hope this helps you my friend :)
Thanks, for sharing. I think you put the bigger socket there to protect your hand from scratching as your glove was already ripped off.
You’re exactly right Mike we go through a lot of van I’m gloves that’s for sure
I wonder if a good brushing with grease, oil, fluid film, etc, etc would save links from getting this bad (in the rust belt). I will try.
Absolutely it will help! See this new video ua-cam.com/video/S03pw1ka_-Q/v-deo.html it's exactly what you are looking for my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your week. mad Mike
I always just push the rubber boot back, and if it has no flats, just put a good pair of vise grips on it, real tight, and run the nut off with an impact wrench. Never had to cut one off yet.
Saab Tech thanks for sharing!
I like to thank you so much on your video
I seem to be in a bind
can't seem to get the sway bar off
I tried a powered hacksaw
and I went through some blades
I'm going to try the metal cut off wheel
like you did in the video
I'd like to buy them from you
but I have the car up on the Jack
need to use it by the next day
next time I have a project I'll buy them from you
thank you so much
Jim the cutoff wheel is the only way to roll with rusted bolts...good luck my friend let me know if you need some pointers :)
Thank you so much it did work good
it was a little hard to get in there
and it did cut some of the connecting
part but just a little bit
it's working fine
I did try the metal cut hacksaw
but it was taking too much time
and it needs to be stable to cut good
worked great thank you
Jim you can get all you need here Electric Die Grinder amzn.to/2hJlDUq Air Die Grinder amzn.to/2BaVhTX Cut-Off wheels amzn.to/2za3FS6 1/4 Cut-Off Arbor amzn.to/2hSYnag or click the SHOW MORE of the video Discription
Does an electric cut off work as well as an air tool? I've always just used a sawzall or an angle grinder but it's a bit of a pain.
You can use whatever you want, we are just sharing the easiest way we have found. Thanks RomanSB, sorry about the delayed response my friend. Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Yeah electric die grinder with a cutoff wheel works fine, they're not very hard. As you say not usually enough room for an angle grinder, especially on the lower link.
Thanks friend. Both sides the bottom broke off the links, yeh gonna get a cut wheel
The cut off wheel will save you my friend thanks mad mike
Yep I’m having that problem, I don’t have one of those but I do got a grinder 🤷🏿♂️
Well, if you don't have the shown tool, you better get grinding my friend, good luck. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike
good video explaining the details & easiest replacement method..Happy Holidays
iron horse122 thank you so much my friend and happy holidays to you as well :)
Other than OEM, any link recommendations?
The top nuts came off with no problem. The right side lower was a little harder, needed to use vise grips to stop the link from spinning. The left side lower..... I ended up grinding it off, almost an hour trying to get it off.
Do you have to jack both sides up to replace them
No, we've never had to jack both sides up, but depends on the vehicle, you will know when you start the process whether you need to do both sides. We suggest changing one at a time, sometimes it's easier to use 2 jacks one for the side and one for the sway bar this keeps the link in position so you can just install the new link easily. Thanks for asking. Happy New Year Adam. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Did you call those grease fittings grease zerts? I ask because that's what I always called em but found out that they are really called grease zerks.
I recently changed my struts and I just removed the nut from the link connected to the sway bar and just left the strut and link together when I removed the strut.
Good tip Thanks.
What do you call that angle grinder, or what brand is it? Looking for something similar
Here are the two tools you need amzn.to/2zbrAAX & amzn.to/2hJlDUq we did not have anything that was angled, but use these amzn.to/2za3FS6 with this amzn.to/2hSYnag in your die grinder and you should be all set. Hope this helps Benjamin, thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Hello ,
Do we need to torque the sway bar links ?
usually not as they have locking nuts once you snug them up good you are all set thanks mike
Another trick is to drill the hex hole just a little bit. Gives more grab. And, MAC RBRT removers are awesome and they Work. Not expensive. Thanks
Thank you for watching and sharing Emilio, we really appreciate it. Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Mine was so rusted I couldn't fit any sort of wrench on it. The cut off tip should help, thanks
Glad it helped trevor!! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a fantastic rest of your week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Mini grinder is my plan also. Luckily i have some flexible extension because there is no space there at all
For sure! Thank you for watching and sharing F20s, we truly appreciate it my friend. Hope you have a great weekend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars thanks. I could cut just one in 4 hours using 5 discs. Is made from some very strong steel alloy . I think i will remove the coilovers on the other side and use angle grinder.
Can you use a bolt cutter in the same location you showed to cut it off?
Your best bet is to use this amzn.to/2hJlDUq but you can use whatever you want to use my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week. mad Mike
Do you just jack up the side you are replacing when doing the links or do you jack up the entire front end?
Hello Gerald you can jack up the entire front end or just one side at a time if you want we found it easier to do one side some guys left the whole front thank you very much and thank you for being a great subscriber
if you do one side then the sway bar is active and makes removing the links difficult when their nuts are removed. trust me. had to jack it up on the whole end to get it off.
@@03056932 just jack the suspension a lil bit bro
Lol went to switch both links on the front end of my mitsubishi endeavor today. Almost no experience. 5 hours later and a little hand saw... I got one done! Just one!! After stripping both ends of the link. Was able to install the new one, put the wheel back on and drive to go get an angle grinder. That other link better prepare it's asshole for what's coming.
LOL, go get em Derek! Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it, have a fantastic day and all the best on that last link my friend! mad Mike the hammer SPC
I simply grind the effers off with my 13 Amp Dewalt grinder. It always comes to that in the end anyway.
you are correct it most always comes down to buzzing them off but we like to show what to do if they have no grinder or air
The OEM one I had on my Kia Sorento didnt even have the hex key option on it. Would have saved me alot of time instead of having to use a dremel metal blade to cut the damn thing off
Make sure your IN FRONT of the hex bolt....learned from experience.
Thank you for watching and sharing my friend :) We appreciate your comment and we will heed your warning... LOL Sorry about the delay in responding to you. Hope you have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Awesome! Glad I found this video.
easiest and least destructive way I've found to get them off is to heat the nut 1-2 min with propane torch, clamp a vise grip pliers on the rear side, and spin the nut off with an impact gun. they even have a special vise grip plier called a sway bar link or parrot plier. hasn't failed me yet
Thanks Ken we wanted to show the easiest way for a tool challenged person...thanks Mike SPC
If you look around you can find a pair of these for most cars for $20. If they are rusty just cut them off cuz if they weren't bad they will be soon. I use a Sawzall or cutoff wheel on electric grinder. Most people don't have an air compressor capable of the power shown here. Can you remake this video using a hacksaw? hehe :)
Thank you Nathaniel we truly appreciate you sharing this we know people have many different methods of doing this type of work we try to keep it as simple as possible for those DIYers that have limited tools thanks again have a great night
He could, but it would be a 17 hour video!
whenever i work on a customers car changing struts i always push new sway bar links for added piece of mind. they're only 30-40 bucks for the set and saves me the headache of the removal process which can be a tedious pita job (if they're bad enough). i usually just cut the SOB's off with my grinder takes 10 seconds
Thanks for sharing, we are with you all the way on that comment! Have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
StarSocket: If you strip out the hex hole then sometimes you can ram a star bit in there and it might hold where you can wrench the nut off.
Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Thanks Adam Corolla! Lol I just can’t help myself. Haha
its ok lol thank you very much...and for the great comment, we are glad you are here with us :) us northerners all have the same sound
Is the bottom one threaded ? Or is it the same as the top
The only one that we know that is threaded, depending on the vehicle, is the top. Thanks for watching Zach. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Some have two flat sides on the back and you can get with vice grips.
Right on man, git er done! Thanks. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Sometimes that doesn’t even work either.
@@carljohnson4996 I've come across a couple of those. since I'm replacing them and not re-using them, I just grab the boot and ball.
Would a corded model have enough power to cut through?
You can try it. If it doesn't work for you, you know what you have to do. Thanks for being here with us. Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Wouldn’t it be easier to cut a small slot in the end of the bolt, so you can use a flat bladed screwdriver in lieu of the torx bit?
Benzknees you can do that if the torx was stripped out but on this one it wasn't :)
Have you ever tried to hold a greasy screwdriver handle with a sweaty hand when the amount of torque needed to bust loose a rusty nut is applied?....
Good luck with that.....
The links are like $15 each...cheap!....just cut 'em off!
Thanks, Great advice. I am fitting these dam RUSTY fittings !!!
You’re very welcome George
I got a reamed out stabilizer end.. 2001 toyota rav4 rear stab link.. Im thinking on drilling it out and putting a little washer in it. any ideas. Thanks
that sounds like a plan you have nothing to lose other than buying new if you have to
if you want to keep it..just unscrew it. If you want throw it away, just cut it off.
That isgolden advice for sure
Thank you very much we appreciate that thanks Mike
Quick question for you. If a sway bar is bad, does it make noise when you're pulling off? Almost like a grunting tugging noise. Mostly hear it when I pull off from a stop position. Then start heading clunking noises if I go over bumps.
This sounds very much like you have a sway bar link going out or both of them for that matter some cars have sway bars in the rear as well
@@SweetProjectCars thank you so much. I was looking under there yesterday and I couldn't see that well, but as I had the wheel turned it looked like possibly the CV axle bearing could be loose or going bad? On the driver side. I'll get a flash light today and check again. Even when the car is not rolling and I turn the wheel all the way in one direction,I can then start to hear it make a crunching clunking noise. When I'm driving straight it's totally quiet and fine and smooth. Just turns out bumps causes noises. Just wish I can pick point it exactly.
if it is making a crunching noise it would be the cv joint
@@SweetProjectCars Thank you so very much for your help. You are pretty awesome. :)
What kind of car were you working on ? FWIW you can get the air cut off tools for less than ten dollars at Harbor Fright and your Air Tools Will last Forever if you oil them every time you use them and you can ATF to lube them as well as WD 40 and drain your compressor every so often Good Video Joe
thanks Joe it was 2008 dodge grand caravan
I thought it was a mopar too bad we live in the rust belt the guys out west and down south have it so easy :)
they sure do have it easy :) working on non rust cars is such a dream
Very good solution if bolt stuck thnxs;)
How would you remove the sway link if the actual bolt was rusted in the hole? I got the nut off, and stripped the torx end trying to get it off. The other side of the car just slipped out, but this one won't budge. Tried lube, punches, and a steel rod with a 3lb hammer with no luck!
MontrealAngler put the nut back on until it is just about flush to the sway bar link bolt and tap the top of the nut with a hammer make sure you have soaked it with some bolt release and it will fall right out
@@SweetProjectCars I dont think that would work. Thats pretty much what I did yesterday but with the solid steel bar. The end is mangled now and the bolt won't go on. Guess I'll go buy a grinder.. thanks for the video
MontrealAngler no problem did not now you had tried it...well it is learning lesson to always use the nut on top so you don't have that happen and a die grinder and cut off wheel is the only way to go when dealing with these that or a torch and we do that many times
I cut mine off with an angle grinder and used a punch to tap it out of the hole. Then I spit on it.
Keith thanks for sharing your method
Hi, I used a nation Brand car repair company, really nice people but they have had problems with Foxies Van,( Chrysler Town and Country Limited) I had new struts, shocks and routers new ceramic brakes all the way around and new" M" tires put on but they received dried out seals. They got the left side right after ordering the new parts again. The noise and the way the right side feels has to be redone today. This is 4 trips 120 miles round trip. Is there anything you know I need to know about the whole assembly or why would they get dried out seals? Thanks!
Foxie Dog I missed something, what seals are you referring to my friend :)
are you talking about the tires ?
Awesome my friend, love it!!!! And well explained!!!!!
Thank you very much we truly appreciate that more than you know actually
Good stuff but can't find that kind of grinder in uk
You know, I just done the one on my transit and to be honest I taught I need to cut it.
There is another trick, on the other side of the nut past the bracket and between the rubber bushing just slip a spanner to lock the bolt.
Mine was 17mm and it worked without cutting.
Trouble is all those rods are not the same, but worth checking out before cutting.
Basically this removal technique with the cut off is for when the sway link bar is junk and no good there is no sense wasting time trying to take it apart with wrenches and what not if it is no good and broken then we just cut them off in two seconds so you can get on with the repair and your day thank you for sharing have a good day
Honestly, I own a cutting torch. It's way faster than any method out there. Maybe 15 seconds per end, hit it with the garden hose to cool things off and reinstall. It takes me longer to remove and reinstall the tires than the link lol.
oiljerk thats great to hear...most people don't do that's why we did the video....thanks for sharing
what kind of torch is that??? i have a very hard time getting the link off.
New DIY Car guy question for you (again) - Do all your air tools run off the same compressor? Is the compressor a giant beast of a momma? :P
Krizzle Sizzle yes they do my friend, we have some good size ones for sure but this one will run pretty much anything amzn.to/2jaziEr
any tips on removing a spinning nylon lock nut. attaches to a pressed ball joint. cutting the stud is not an option. new part.
Thank you so much, very much. This is incredibly helpful.......
Please can you tell me the name of the cutting disc you are using to cut it off. I have a drill but I need a drill bit cutting disc to cut it off. Thanks.
It's these amzn.to/2za3FS6 and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can always be found in the ...MORE of the videos description, see here 3c5.com/4u6dj if you can't find it let us know and we will help you. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars Thanks for your reply. I wanted to ask im changing a suspension coil spring on a Toyota Yaris 2009. Theres only one nut on the top under the dust cap witch is really tight. Can I put wd40 on it just to loosen it up? I know you have to put an alan key in middle to hold it but I don't want that to slip if I spray wd40 on it. Also only one side of my spring is fractured so im changing that but the other side is perfectly fine. Everything is good on the other side. Do I really have to change that side to. I know garages say both sides got to be changed but if its perfectly fine is it really necessary? Thanks.
Hello EJ, use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky on that nut, I guarantee it will loosen it up, apply it liberally then let it sit for 15-30 minutes. As far as replacing both sides, I would do the side that needs it, put it all back together and drive it. If you feel anything different or if your vehicle pulls to one side then I would replace the other side. Hope this helps, thanks again for watching, have a great week and all the best on your project my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars Thank you for your reply but I took it to the garage yesterday just before you replied back. Garage charged me £100 about $125 in US dollars just to change springs and sway bars on both sides. I supplied the parts to them. Thanks for all your help.
These guys are the best
Vince bymirer thank you very much we sincerely do appreciate that :)